The name of this German specialty means “hand cheese,” referring to the fact that it’s hand-shaped into irregular rounds, cylinders or other forms. It’s made from skimmed, sour cow’s milk, which gives the cheese a sharp, pungent flavor and very strong (some say overpowering) smell. The rind is gray and the interior off-white and soft. Handkäse is usually eaten as a snack. See also cheese.