Napoleon is said to have christened this cheese with the appellation “Camembert,” naming it after the Norman village where a farmer’s wife first served it to him. Now world famous, this cow’s-milk cheese has a white, downy rind and a smooth, creamy interior. When perfectly ripe, the cheese should ooze thickly. When overripe, it becomes runny, bitter and rank. Choose Camembert that is plump and soft to the touch. Avoid those with hardened edges, which may forecast overripeness. See also cheese.