á blanc
A French term meaning "in white" and identifying foods, usually meats, that aren't browned during cooking.
à la
French, literally, prepared in the style of.
à la carte
A menu term signifying that each item is priced separately. See also prix fixe; table D'HÔte.
à la King
an American dish of diced foods, usually chicken or turkey, in a cream sauce with pimientos, mushrooms, green peppers and sometimes sherry.
à la Maréchale
small cuts of meat and poultry which are breaded and fried in butter. Green asparagus tips and truffles are usual in the garnish.
à la Mode
literally, following the fashion. In the United States, it is food that is served with ice cream; in France it names braised meat smothered in sauce.
à la Nicoise
dishes with black olives, tomatoes, garlic, anchovies and dried cherries. Also, a candy of caramelized sugar and browned almonds.
à la Printanier
to be cooked or garnished with fresh spring vegetables. Printemps is the French word for spring.
à la Provencale
a dish including garlic, olive oil, tomatoes and often black olives.
à point
1. The French term used for food cooked just to the perfect point of doneness. 2. When referring to meat, à point means that a steak is cooked rare.
Éclair
A small, oblong, cream-filled pastry made with Choux Pastry (cream-puff pastry dough). Unlike Cream Puffs, éclairs are usually topped with a sweet icing such as a chocolate glaze.
Épice
French for "spice."
Épices fines
Literally meaning "fine spices," this complex blend of herbs and spices is usually marketed under the name spice parisienne.
Épinard
French for "spinach."
Étouffée á l'étouffée
This popular cajun dish is a thick, spicy stew of fish and vegetables served over white rice. Its rich, deep color and flavor come from the dark brown roux on which it's based. The word étouffée comes from the French étouffer, which means "to smother" or "to suffocate." The term á l'étouffée refers to the method of cooking food in a minute amount of liquid, tightly covered and over very low heat.
Aïoli
A strongly flavored garlic mayonnaise from the Provence region of southern France. It's a popular accompaniment for fish, meats and vegetables.
A.Q.
A menu term meaning "as quoted," referring to generally high-priced foods, the price of which may vary depending on the season. The server will be able to quote the price of an A.Q. item.
abbacchio
Italian for a very young lamb.
absinthe
Reputed to be an aphrodisiac, absinthe is a potent, bitter liqueur distilled from wormwood and flavored with a variety of herbs. It has a distinct anise flavor and is 68 percent alcohol (136 proof). Absinthe is usually diluted with water, which changes the color of the liqueur from green to milky white. Because it's considered habit forming and hazardous to health, absinthe is prohibited in many countries and was banned in the United States in the early 1900s.
acerola
A tiny tree and the small, deep-red, cherrylike fruit that grows on it, found primarily in and around the West Indies. The fruit, which has a sweet flavor and one of the highest concentrations of vitamin C, is used in desserts and preserves. It's also called Barbados cherry, Puerto Rican cherry and West Indies cherry.
Acesulfame-K
Formulated by the Germans in the late 1960s, this noncaloric artificial sweetener (also called Ace-K ) was approved in the United States by the Federal Drug Administration in 1988. It's 200 times sweeter than sugar and, unlike aspartame, retains its sweetness when heated, making it suitable for cooking and baking. When used in large amounts, however, Ace-K has a bitter aftertaste, much like that of saccharin. This sweetener is composed of carbon, nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, sulphur and potassium atoms. It's widely used in a broad range of commercial products including baked goods, candies and imitation dairy products. See also alitame; sucralose.
Acetic Acid
wine or cider, fermented beyond the stage of alcohol. In diluted form, it is vinegar. Also, acetic acid is used in preserving fruits to keep flesh from discoloring, and in freezing.
aceto
Italian for "vinegar."
achar
An East Indian word referring to pickled and salted relishes. They can be made sweet or hot, depending on the seasoning added.
Achar/Achard
pickles and salt relishes used in the cooking of India
Achiote
The rust-colored, smoky-flavored seed of the annatto tree.
achiote seed
The slightly musky-flavored seed of the annatto tree is available whole or ground in East Indian, Spanish and Latin American markets. Buy whole seeds when they're a rusty red color; brown seeds are old and flavorless. Achiote seed is also called annatto which, in its paste and powder form, is used in the United States to color butter, margarine, cheese and smoked fish.
Achira
South American plant used as arrowroot
Acid Rinse
a bath of acidulated water used to prevent discoloration of peeled fruits and vegetables that brown when exposed to air
acids
The word "acid" comes from the Latin acidus, meaning "sour." All acids are sour to some degree. Sourness (acidity) is found in many natural ingredients such as vinegar (acetic acid), wine (tartaric acid), lemon juice (citric acid), sour-milk products (lactic acid), apples (malic acid) and rhubarb leaves (toxic oxalic acid). When used in a marinade, acids such as wine and lemon juice are natural tenderizers because they break down connective tissue and cell walls.
Acidulated Water
cold water with vinegar, lemon or lime juice added.
acini di peppe
Italian for "peppercorns," referring culinarily to tiny peppercorn-shaped pasta.
ackee; akee; achee
A bright red tropical fruit that, when ripe, bursts open to reveal three large black seeds and a soft, creamy white flesh. The scientific name, blighia sapida, comes from Captain Bligh, who brought the fruit from West Africa to Jamaica in 1793. It is extremely popular in one of Jamaica's national dishes, "saltfish and ackee." Because certain parts of the fruit are toxic when underripe, canned ackee is often subject to import restrictions.
acorn
Acorns are the fruit of the oak tree. Some varieties are edible and, like chestnuts, may be eaten raw, roasted or baked. They may also be ground and used as a substitute for coffee.
Acorn Squash
a small to medium-sized acorn-shaped winter squash with an orange-streaked dark green fluted shell (orange, yellow and creamy white varieties are also available), pale orange flesh, large seed cavity and a slightly sweet, nutty flavor.
additives, food
In the broadest of terms, food additives are substances intentionally added to food either directly or indirectly with one or more of the following purposes: 1. to maintain or improve nutritional quality; 2. to maintain product quality and freshness; 3. to aid in the processing or preparation of food; and 4. to make food more appealing. Some 2,800 substances are currently added to foods for one or more of these uses. During normal processing, packaging and storage, up to 10,000 other compounds can find their way into food. Today more than ever, additives are strictly regulated. Manufacturers must prove the additives they add to food are safe. This process can take several years and includes a battery of chemical studies as well as tests involving animals, the latter to determine whether the substances could have harmful effects such as cancer and birth defects. The results of these comprehensive studies must be presented to the Food and Drug Administration (fda), which then determines how the additive can be used in food. There are two major categories of food that are exempt from this testing and approval process: 1. a group of 700 substances categorized as gras ("generally recognized as safe"), which are so classified because of extensive past use without harmful side effects; and 2. substances approved before 1958 either by the fda or the usda. An ongoing review of many of these substances is in effect, however, to make sure they're tested against the most current scientific standards. It's interesting to note that about 98 percent (by weight) of all food additives used in the United States are in the form of baking soda, citric acid, corn syrup, mustard, pepper, salt, sugar and vegetable colorings.
Ade
a fruit drink made by combining water with sugar, boiling until the sugar dissolves, then adding a citrus juice and ice
Adjust
in cooking, the term means the cook must taste before serving, and add seasonings to suit his or her own sense of what the right flavor is
ado gado; gado-gado
This Indonesian favorite consists of a mixture of raw and slightly cooked vegetables served with a spicy peanut sauce made with hot chiles and coconut milk. Some-times the term "gado gado" refers only to the spicy sauce, which is used as a condiment with rice and various vegetable dishes.
Adobo
a Philippine national dish of braised chicken, or fish. Also, a seasoned Mexican sauce made with vinegar and chilies.
Adobo sauce
A blend of chiles, herbs and vinegar.
advocaat
Reminiscent of eggnog, this Dutch liqueur is made with brandy, egg yolks and sugar.
adzuki bean; azuki bean
A small, dried, russet-colored bean with a sweet flavor. Adzuki beans can be purchased whole or powdered at Asian markets. They are particularly popular in Japanese cooking where they're used in confections such as the popular yokan, made with adzuki-bean paste and agar. See also beans.
Aemono
a Japanese salad served with dressing, or the dressing itself
aerate
A term used in cookery as a synonym for sift.
Agar-Agar
seaweed used as a thickening agent, as is gelatin
agar; agar-agar
Also called kanten and Japanese gelatin, this tasteless dried seaweed acts as a setting agent and is widely used in Asia. It is marketed in the form of blocks, powder or strands and is available at Asian markets and health-food stores. Agar can be substituted for gelatin but has stronger setting properties so less of it is required.
agave
Also called century plant, this family of succulents grows in the southwestern United States, Mexico and Central America. Though poisonous when raw, agave has a sweet, mild flavor when baked or made into a syrup. Certain varieties are used in making the alcoholic beverages mescal, pulque and tequila.
age; aged
To let food get older under controlled conditions in order to improve flavor or texture or both. 1. Aged meat has been stored 3 to 6 weeks at an optimal temperature of 34°F to 38°F and in low humidity. During this time it undergoes an enzymatic change that intensifies flavor, deepens color and tenderizes by softening some of the connective tissue. The longer meat is aged, the more quickly it will cook. The cryovac method of aging involves vacuum packing the meat with a vapor- and moistureproof film so the so-called aging takes place in transit from slaughterhouse to the consumer's home. 2. Aging cheese refers to storing it in a temperature-controlled area until it develops the desired texture and flavor. 3. Wine is aged both in the barrel and in the bottle. Generally, red wines benefit from long bottle-aging more than white wines.
agedashi
A Japanese dish of deep-fried tofu served with daikon, katsuobushi (dried bonito tuna flakes), ginger and a dipping sauce made of soy sauce and mirin.
agemono
A Japanese term referring to deep-frying (see deep-fry) and the foods produced from this cooking method. tempura is the most famous of the Japanese foods cooked in this manner. Deep-frying is done in a pan called an agemono-nabe, which is similar to a Chinese wok.
aglio e olio
Italian for "garlic and oil," referring to a dressing of garlic and hot olive oil used on pasta.
agneau
The French word for lamb.
Agnolotti
Small, half-moon-shaped ravioli.
Agrodolce
Italian sweet and sour sauce.
aguacate
The Spanish word for avocado.
ahi
The Hawaiian name for yellowfin, as well as bigeye tuna.
aigre-doux
The French term for the combined flavors of sour (aigre ) and sweet (doux ). An aigre-doux sauce might contain both vinegar and sugar.
Aiguillettes
thin strips of meat or fish
aji-no-moto
The Japanese name for monosodium glutamate (msg).
Aji-No-Motto
Japanese name for monosodium glutamate, MSG, used by Oriental cooks on occasion to revive a dish that has turned out tasteless.
ajowan; ajwain
Though it's related to caraway and cumin, ajowan tastes more like thyme with an astringent edge. This native of southern India can be found in Indian markets in either ground or seed form. The light brown to purple-red seeds resemble celery seeds in size and shape. Ajowan is most commonly added to chutneys, curried dishes, breads and legumes. It's also called carom. See also spices.
akala
Hailing from Hawaii, this sweet, juicy berry resembles a very large raspberry. It can range in color from red to almost purple and is good eaten plain or in jams and pies.
Akavit/Aquavit
Scandinavian form of distilled alcohol made from grain or potatoes, and flavored with caraway seeds.
akule
This Hawaiian fish, also known as bigeye scad, is usually salted and dried. See also fish.
al
An Italian word meaning "at the," "to the" or "on the." For example, al dente means "to the tooth."
al Dente
Italian for to the tooth; used to describe a food, usually pasta, that is cooked only until it gives a slight resistance when one bites into it; the food is neither soft nor overdone.
al forno
(ahl fohr-noh) Italian for "baked" or "roasted."
albóndiga
The Spanish word for "meatball." Albóndigas is the name of a popular Mexican and Spanish dish of spicy meatballs, usually in a tomato sauce. Sopa de albóndigas is a beef-broth soup with meatballs and chopped vegetables.
Albert sauce
Usually served with beef, this is a rich horseradish sauce with a base of butter, flour and cream.
Albondigas
a Mexican dish of spiced meat balls. Also found in Spanish, Brazilian, and Scottish recipes.
albumen
The old-fashioned word for egg white.
Albumin
a protein found in egg white, milk, green plants, seeds, and animal blood.
alcohol
The only alcohol suitable for drinking is ethyl alcohol, a liquid produced by distilling the fermented juice of fruits or grains. Pure ethyl alcohol is clear, flammable and caustic. Water is therefore added to reduce its potency. In the United States, the average amount of alcohol in distilled spirits is about 40 percent (80 proof). Pure alcohol boils at 173°F, water at 212°F. A mixture of the two will boil somewhere between these two temperatures. A usda study has disproved the theory that alcohol evaporates completely when heated. In truth, cooked food can retain from 5 to 85 percent of the original alcohol, depending on various factors such as how and at what temperature the food was heated, the cooking time and the alcohol source. Even the smallest trace of alcohol may be a problem for alcoholics and those with alcohol-related illnesses. Because alcohol freezes at a much lower temperature than water, the amount of alcohol used in a frozen dessert (such as ice cream) must be carefully regulated or the dessert won't freeze. Calorie-wise, a one-and-a-half-ounce jigger of 80-proof liquor (such as Scotch or vodka) equals almost 100 calories, a four-ounce glass of dry wine costs in the area of 85 to 90 calories and a twelve-ounce regular (not light) beer contributes about 150 calories.
Ale
a fermented drink; the original term for beer.
alfalfa
Though alfalfa is generally grown for fodder, the seeds are also sprouted for human consumption. Alfalfa sprouts are popular in salads and on sandwiches. See also sprouts.
alginic acid; algin
A thick, jellylike substance obtained from seaweed. Alginic acid is used as a stabilizer and thickener in a wide variety of commercially processed foods such as ice creams, puddings, flavored milk drinks, pie fillings, soups and syrups.
Alitame
Although not sanctioned for use in the United States at this writing, Alitame is expected to soon become fda approved. This supernova of artificial sweeteners is 2,000 times as sweet as sugar. It's a compound of two amino acids alanine and aspartic acid. See also acesulfame-K; aspartame; saccharin; sucralose.
alkali
Alkalis counterbalance and neutralize acids. In cooking, the most common alkali used is bicarbonate of soda, commonly known as baking soda. Adding baking soda to the water when cooking green vegetables helps maintain their bright color because it neutralizes the natural acid in the vegetables. Unfortunately, it also destroys some of the vegetable's vitamins. Baking soda is used as a leavener in baked goods where it neutralizes acid ingredients (such as molasses, buttermilk and honey) and produces tender breads, cakes, and so on.
alkanet
A member of the borage family, the alkanet plant has roots that yield a red dye, which is used to color various food products such as margarine.
All-Purpose Flour
is made from a blend of high-gluten hard wheat and low-gluten soft wheat. It's a fine-textured flour milled from the inner part of the wheat kernel and contains neither the germ (the sprouting part) nor the bran (the outer coating). U.S. law requires that all flours not containing wheat germ must have niacin, riboflavin, thiamin and iron added. These flours are labeled "enriched." All-purpose flour comes in two basic forms bleached and unbleached that can be used interchangeably. Flour can be bleached either naturally, as it ages, or chemically. Most flour on the market today is presifted, requiring only that it be stirred, then spooned into a measuring cup and leveled off.
alla
The Italian word meaning "as done by, in, for or with." Eggplant alla parmigiana refers to eggplant topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella and Parmesan cheese.
allemande sauce
A classic velouté sauce thickened with egg yolks. Also called Parisienne sauce.
Allspice
a member of the pimento family and native to tropical regions in the western hemisphere; has leathery leaves, white flowers and small, brown berries, has a flavor reminiscent of a mixture of cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger and pepper; also known as Jamaican pepper.
Allumettes
cut into matchstick sizes and shapes. Also, a puff pastry used for hors doeuvres.
almond
The kernel of the fruit of the almond tree, grown extensively in California, the Mediterranean, Australia and South Africa. There are two main types of almonds sweet and bitter. The flavor of sweet almonds is delicate and slightly sweet. They're readily available in markets and, unless otherwise indicated, are the variety used in recipes. The more strongly flavored bitter almonds contain traces of lethal prussic acid when raw. Though the acid's toxicity is destroyed when the nuts are heated, the sale of bitter almonds is illegal in the United States. Processed bitter almonds are used to flavor extracts, liqueurs and orgeat syrup. The kernels of apricot and peach pits have a similar flavor and the same toxic effect (destroyed by heating) as bitter almonds. Almonds are available blanched or not, whole, sliced, chopped, candied, smoked, in paste form and in many flavors. Toasting almonds before using in recipes intensifies their flavor and adds crunch. Almonds are a nutritional powerhouse, packed with calcium, fiber, folic acid, magnesium, potassium, riboflavin and vitamin E. See also almond extract; almond oil; almond paste; jordan almond; nuts.
Almond Extract
a concentrated flavoring made from bitter-almond oil and alcohol, widely used in pastries and baked goods.
almond oil
An oil obtained by pressing sweet almonds. French almond oil, huile d'amande, is very expensive and has the delicate flavor and aroma of lightly toasted almonds. The U.S. variety is much milder and doesn't compare either in flavor or in price. Almond oil can be found in specialty gourmet markets and many supermarkets.
Almond Paste
a mixture of sugar, almonds, and rose water traditional among Christmas foods in Europe. Used to make marzipan and for decorations.
alsacienne, à l'
A term referring to cooking "in the style of Alsace," a province in northeastern France whose French and German heritage is reflected in its famous cuisine. It usually refers to preparations of meat braised with sauerkraut, potatoes and sausage.
Alsatian wines
Wines from the French province of Alsace made from grapes grown in the foothill vineyards of the Vosges Mountains. These wines are known for their delicate flavor and dryness. The Alsace appellation is one of the few in France that uses varietal labeling, similar to that in the United States (versus the geographic labeling used throughout most of France). The principal Alsatian wines are made from gewürztraminer, pinot blanc, riesling and sylvaner grapes.
Altitude (High) Cooking & Baking
Simply put, the weight of air on any surface it comes in contact with is called air (or atmospheric) pressure. There's less (or lower) air pressure at high altitudes because the blanket of air above is thinner than it would be at sea level. As a result, at sea level water boils at 212°F; at an altitude of 7,500 feet, however, it boils at about 198°F because there's not as much air pressure to inhibit the boiling action. This also means that because at high altitudes boiling water is 14 degrees cooler than at sea level, foods will take longer to cook because they're heating at a lower temperature. Lower air pressure also causes boiling water to evaporate more quickly in a high altitude. This decreased air pressure means that adjustments in some ingredients and cooking time and temperature will have to be made for high-altitude baking, as well as some cooking techniques such as candy making, deep-fat frying and canning. In general, no recipe adjustment is necessary for yeast-risen baked goods, although allowing the dough or batter to rise twice before the final pan rising develops a better flavor.
alum
In cooking, these highly astringent crystals of potassium aluminum sulfate were once widely used as the crisping agent in canning pickles. Alum can cause digestive distress, however, and modern canning methods make its use unnecessary.
aluminum cookware
One of the best all-around cooking materials available, aluminum is moderately priced, sturdy and a good heat conductor. It comes in light- and medium-weight cookware and bakeware; the heavier the gauge, the more evenly it cooks. It's available in plain (matte or polished) or anodized (dark gray) finishes. Plain aluminum finishes can darken and pit when exposed to alkaline or mineral-rich foods, and when soaked excessively in soapy water. Likewise, they can discolor some foods containing eggs, wine or other acidic ingredients. (This discoloration, though not harmful, is unattractive.) Because aluminum may be reactive and easily scratched, it's often combined with other metals, such as stainless steel. The anodized finishes are chip-, stain- and scratch-resistant but will spot and fade if cleaned in a dishwasher. Extensive research has proven that the old tales of food being poisoned by aluminum are unequivocally false, and those who claim that some foods take on a metallic taste when cooked with aluminum cookware are counterbalanced by just as many who insist they don't.
Aluminum Foil
a thin pliable sheet of aluminum; easily molded, conducts heat well, can withstand temperature extremes and is impervious to odors, moisture and air; used to cover foods for cooking and storage.
américaine, à l'
A dish prepared with a spicy sauce of tomatoes, olive oil, onions, brandy and wine.
Amandine
a dish garnished with sautéed almonds.
amaranth
Once considered a simple weed in the United States, this nutritious annual is finally being acknowledged as the nourishing high-protein food it is. Amaranth greens have a delicious, slightly sweet flavor and can be used both in cooking and for salads. The seeds are used as cereal or can be ground into flour for bread. Amaranth seeds and flour can be found in health-food stores, as well as in some Caribbean and Asian markets.
amaretti
Intensely crisp, airy macaroon cookies that are made either with bitter-almond paste or its flavor counterpart, apricot-kernel paste. In the United States, pairs of paper-wrapped Amaretti di Saronno (made with apricot-kernel paste) are sold under the label of Lazzaroni. Amarettini are miniature cookies with the same flavor.
Amaretto
liqueur with the flavor of almonds although it is often made with the kernels of apricot pits. The original liqueur, Amaretto di Saronno, is from Saronno, Italy.
amazu shoga
Thinly sliced or shredded fresh ginger pickled in a sweet vinegar marinade. Amazu shoga is beige or pink in color, as compared to the bright red beni shoga. It's used as a garnish for many Japanese dishes, particularly sushi. Amazu shoga can be found in Asian markets.
amberjack
A lean, mild fish found along the South Atlantic coast. This member of the jack family is hard to find in markets but, when available, is usually sold whole. Amberjack is best baked or sautéed. See also fish.
ambrosia
1. According to Greek mythology, ambrosia (meaning "immortality") was the food of the gods on Mt. Olympus. More recently, the word designates a dessert of chilled fruit (usually oranges and bananas) mixed with coconut. Ambrosia is also sometimes served as a salad. 2. A mixed drink made by shaking cognac, brandy (usually calvados or applejack) and, depending on the bartender, cointreau or raspberry syrup with crushed ice. The shaken mixture is strained into a glass and topped off with cold champagne. It's said to have been created at New Orleans' famous Arnaud's restaurant shortly after Prohibition ended.
amchoor; amchor; amchur
An East Indian seasoning made by pulverizing sun-dried, unripe (green) mango into a fine powder. Amchoor has a tart, acidic, fruity flavor that adds character to many dishes including meats, vegetables and curried preparations. It's also used to tenderize poultry, meat and fish. Amchoor is also called simply mango powder; it's also spelled aamchur.
American Cheese, Processed
any of the group of U.S. cheeses made with emulsifiers to increase smoothness and pasteurized milk to increase storage life; 51% of the final weight must be cheese.
ammonium bicarbonate
This leavener is the precursor of today's baking powder and baking soda. It's still called for in some European baking recipes, mainly for cookies. It can be purchased in drugstores but must be ground to a powder before using. Also known as hartshorn, carbonate of ammonia and powdered baking ammonia.
amontillado
A Spanish sherry made from the palomino grape. It's aged longer and is darker and softer than a fino. Amontillado should have a distinctively nutty flavor.
Anadama Bread
yeast bread made of cornmeal and white flour with molasses.
Anaheim chile
Named after the California city, the generally mild Anaheim is one of the most commonly available chiles in the United States. It is usually medium green in color and has a long, narrow shape. The red strain is also called the chile Colorado. Anaheim chiles can be purchased fresh or canned and have a sweet, simple taste with just a hint of bite. Anaheims are frequently stuffed and commonly used in salsas. The dried red variety are those used for the decorative ristra, a long string (or wreath) of chiles.
ananas
French for "pineapple."
anasazi beans
One of the relatively "new" heirloom dried beans on the market today, the red and white anasazi beans have a wonderfully sweet flavor. They're great cooked alone and wonderful in chili con carne. See also beans.
Ancho chile
The reddish brown, dried version of a poblano chile. Generally mild but can pack a punch.
anchoiade; anchoyade
A paste made of anchovies, garlic and, sometimes, olive oil. It's generally used to spread on toast or bread.
Anchovy
a small fish usually stored in olive oil or salt. Anchovy is sold for flavoring.
anchovy paste
This combination of pounded anchovies, vinegar, spices and water comes in tubes and is convenient for many cooking purposes. It can also be used for canapés.
ancienne, à l'
French for "in the old style," describing a traditional preparation method (usually for beef) of braising, then simmering.
andalouse, à l'
A French term describing dishes using tomatoes, pimientos and sometimes rice pilaf or sausage. Andalouse sauce refers to mayonnaise mixed with tomato puree and pimiento.
andouille sausage
A spicy, heavily smoked sausage. French in origin, andouille is a specialty of cajun cooking. It's the traditional sausage used in specialties like jambalaya and gumbo, and makes a spicy addition to any dish that would use smoked sausage. Andouille is also especially good served cold as an hors D'oeuvre. See also sausage.
andouillette sausage
This smaller version (1 inch or less in diameter) of andouille sausage is a specialty of Normandy. It is sold cooked but not usually smoked. This sausage is traditionally slashed and grilled or fried.
anelli; anellini
Small pasta rings, anellini being the tiniest of the two.
anesone
A clear anise-flavored liqueur that is drier and of a higher proof than anisette.
Angel Food Cake
a light, airy cake made without egg yolks or other fats; its structure is based on the air whipped into the egg whites; traditionally baked in a tube pan.
Angelica
a sweet herb used to flavor a variety of liqueurs and drinks. Candied, it is used in baking, especially fruit cakes.
anglaise, à l'
French for "in the English style," meaning food that is simply poached or boiled. The term can also be used for food that has been coated in bread crumbs and fried.
animal fat
Any fat that comes from an animal. Because they are almost entirely saturated, animal fats are not recommended for people on lowfat or low-cholesterol diets. See also fats and oils.
Anise
a small annual member of the parsley family native to the eastern Mediterranean region; has bright green leaves with a mild licorice flavor that are sometimes used as an herb or in salads.
anisette
A clear, very sweet liqueur made with anise seeds and tasting of licorice.
Anjou pear
A large winter pear with firm flesh and a yellowish-green skin that is often blushed with red. It's sweet and succulent and is delicious both cooked and raw. The Anjou is available in most regions from October through midwinter. See also pear.
annatto
A derivative of achiote seed, commercial annatto paste and powder is used to color butter, margarine, cheese and smoked fish.
antelope
Currently, the only state that's farming antelopes for human consumption is Texas, where black buck and nilgai antelope are allowed to roam on huge preserves. Antelope meat is similar to that of deer, but leaner. As with other large game, antelope is sometimes sold in markets as venison. See also game animals.
antioxidants
Substances that inhibit oxidation in plant and animal cells. Culinarily, antioxidants help prevent food from becoming rancid or discolored. In the body, many scientists believe that antioxidants may contribute to reducing cancer and heart disease. Ascorbic acid (vitamin C), which is easily obtained from citrus fruits, is a well known natural antioxidant, as is vitamin E, which is plentiful in seeds and nuts. Antioxidants are also abundant in cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts.
Antipasto
assorted hors doeuvres, Italian style. Often included are ripe black olives, green stuffed olives, garlic sausage slices, salted anchovy curled on a sliced tomato, cooked dried beans in a vinaigrette dressing, prosciutto (thinly sliced fat ham) with cantaloupe.
antojitos
In Mexico, the word antojitos ("little whims") refers to what Americans call appetizers.
apéritif
A French term referring to a light alchoholic drink taken before a meal to stimulate the appetite. Popular apéritifs include champagne, lillet and sherry.
apee
Dating back to the 1800s, this soft, sour cream-based sugar cookie takes its name from the initials of its creator, Philadelphia cook Ann Page.
Aperitif
a cooked, usually sweet, wine, taken before a meal to stimulate the appetite.
appellation
In the wine world, this term refers to a designated growing area governed by the rules and regulations established by a country's federal government or local governing body. Such rules vary from country to country but are somewhat similar in their attempt to stimulate the production of quality wines. These regulations are established by the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (aoc) in France, the Denominazione di Origine Controllata (doc) in Italy, the Denominação de Origem Controlada (doc) in Portugal, the Denominación de Origen (do) in Spain and the American Viticultural Area (ava) in the United States.
Appenzeller cheese; Appenzell cheese
This whole-milk cow's cheese is named for an eastern Swiss canton (a state in the Swiss confederation). It has a golden yellow rind and a firm, straw-colored curd with tiny holes. The flavor is delicate and somewhat fruity owing to the wine or cider wash it receives during curing. See also cheese.
Appetizer
a small serving of food or beverage served before or as the first course of a meal.
Apple
a pome fruit with generally firm flesh, which can range in flavor from sweet to tart, encased in a thin skin, which can range in color from yellow to green to red; apples can be eaten out of hand, cooked or used for juice and are grown in temperate regions worldwide and available all year, particularly in the fall.
Apple Butter
a very thick preserve of cooked apples.
apple snow
A chilled dessert made by combining applesauce, lemon juice, spices, stiffly beaten egg whites and, sometimes, gelatin.
applejack
A potent brandy made from apple cider and ranging in strength from 80 to 100 proof. France is famous for its apple brandy, calvados. In the United States, applejack must spend a minimum of 2 years in wooden casks before being bottled.
applesauce
A cooked puree (ranging in texture from smooth to chunky) of apples, sugar and, sometimes, spices.
Apricot
a small stone fruit with a thin, velvety, pale yellow to deep burnt orange skin, a meaty golden cream to bright orange flesh and an almond-shaped pit; it is highly perishable, with a peak season during June and July; the pit's kernel is used to flavor alcoholic beverages and confection.
Apry
Another name for apricot brandy.
Aqua Vitae
Latin, water of life, used to describe clear distilled liquors and brandies.
aquaculture
The cultivation of fish or aquatic plants (such as seaweed) in natural or controlled marine or freshwater environments. Even though aquaculture began eons ago with the ancient Greeks, it wasn't until the 1980s that the practice finally began to expand rapidly. Aquaculture "farms" take on a variety of forms including huge tanks, freshwater ponds, and shallow- or deep-water marine environments. Today, the farming and harvesting of fish is a multimillion-dollar business. Among the most popular denizens of the deep that are farmed are fish like salmon, trout and tilapia. See also hydroponics.
aquavit
A strong colorless Scandinavian liquor distilled from grain or potatoes and flavored with caraway seed. It is served icy cold and drunk in a single gulp.
aram sandwich
A sandwich formed by spreading a softened lahvosh with cream cheese, then layering thin slices of sandwich fillings such as meat, cheese, lettuce, pickle and so on. This large flat round is then rolled jelly-roll style, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerated for several hours. Before being served, the cylinder is cut into about 1-inch thick slices. The aram sandwich is also known as levant.
Arborio Rice
an ovoid, short-grain rice with a hard core, white color and mild flavor; it becomes creamy when cooked and is used for risotto.
Areca Nut
Betel nut, East India pepper plant. It is chewed in Asia to aid digestion.
Argenteuil, à l'
A term describing a dish featuring asparagus, named after the French town that is world renowned for its asparagus.
Armagnac
A fine French brandy from Gascony, near Condom, a town southeast of Bordeaux. Like cognac, Armagnac is aged in oak for up to 40 years.
Aroma
describes flavor and fragrance, both closely related.
aromatic
n. Any of various plants, herbs and spices (such as bay leaf, ginger or parsley) that impart a lively fragrance and flavor to food and drink.
aromatic rice
A general term used for rices with a perfumy, nutlike flavor and aroma. Among the more popular aromatic rices are basmati (from India), jasmine (from Thailand), texmati (from Texas), wehani and wild pecan rice (from Louisiana). See also rice; rizcous.
Arrabbiata
Literally "angry" in Italian; in this case referring to a spicy tomato sauce.
arrack
A name widely used in Asia and the Middle East for a fiery liquor made, depending on the country, from any of several ingredients including rice, sundry-palm sap and dates. In many countries, arrack is strongly flavored with anise seed. Also spelled arak.
Arrack; Arak; Raki
Strong anise-flavored liquor distilled in North Africa and in the Levant. It is drunk in very small portions. See also Ouzo.
Arrowroot
A flour used to thicken clear liquids because it does not cloud.
arroz
ah-rohs] The Spanish word for "rice."
arroz con leche
A Spanish pudding made from rice that's cooked in milk with various flavorings such as vanilla, lemon and cinnamon.
arroz con pollo
Literally "rice with chicken," this Spanish and Mexican dish is made with rice, chicken, tomatoes, green peppers, seasonings and, sometimes, saffron.
Artichoke
the large flowerhead of a plant of the thistle family; has tough gray-green petal-shaped leaves with soft flesh (which is eaten) underneath, a furry choke (that is discarded) and a tender center (called the heart which is also eaten); also known as globe artichoke.
artificial sweeteners
This category of nonnutritive, high-intensity sugar substitutes includes aspartame, acesulfame-K and saccharin. Two sweeteners undergoing fda approval at this writing are alitame and sucralose. Cyclamate lost its fda approval in 1970. Numerous new sweeteners are in various stages of development or review. Most of these are from two groups: the fructo-oligosaccharides (fos) and the L-sugars.
Arugula
a leaf vegetable with dark green, spiky, dandelion-like leaves and a strong, spicy, peppery flavor; used in salads; also known as rocket, rugula, and rucola.
Arugula (Rocket)
An assertive salad green with peppery, somewhat bitter overtones.
asadero cheese
A white cow's-milk cheese of Mexican origin that's available in braids, balls or rounds. Asadero, which means "roaster" or "broiler," has good melting properties and becomes softly stringy when heated very similar to an unaged monterey jack cheese. Other names for this cheese are Chihuahua and Oaxaca. See also cheese.
asafetida; asafoetida
A flavoring obtained from a giant fennellike plant that grows mainly in Iran and India. It's used in many Indian dishes and can be found in powdered or lump form in Indian markets. Asafetida has a fetid, garlicky smell and should be used in very small quantities.
ascorbic acid
The scientific name for vitamin C, ascorbic acid is sold for home use to prevent browning of vegetables and fruits. It's used in commercial preparations as an antioxidant.
aseptic packaging
A system of packaging food and drink products so the contents are exposed to a minimal amount of air; such products are typically vacuum-packed. Because oxygen is the major contributor to spoilage in most foods, aseptic packaging can retain a product's freshness for several months, even years. Milk, juices, chopped tomatoes and even inexpensive wines are packaged aseptically in plastic bags within cartons or boxes. The bags collapse as the contents are poured out, keeping the remaining food or drink relatively free of air contamination.
Asiago
Semi-firm Italian cheese made from cow's milk.
Asiago cheese
A semifirm Italian cheese with a rich, nutty flavor. It's made from whole or part-skim cow's milk and comes in small wheels with glossy rinds. The yellow interior has many small holes. Young Asiago is used as a table cheese; aged over a year, it becomes hard and suitable for grating. See also cheese.
Asian noodles
Though some Asian-style noodles are wheat-based, many others are made from ingredients such as rice flour, potato flour, buckwheat flour, cornstarch and bean, yam or soybean starch. Among the more popular are China's cellophane noodles (made from mung-bean starch), egg noodles (usually wheat-based) and rice-flour noodles, and Japan's harusame (made with soybean, rice or potato flour), ramen (wheat-based egg noodles) and soba (which contain buckwheat flour). Other Asian countries, including Korea, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam and the Philippines, have their own versions of the venerable noodle. Asian noodles can be purchased fresh and dried in Asian markets; some dried varieties can be found in supermarkets. Throughout Asian cultures noodles are eaten hot and cold. They can be cooked in a variety of ways including steaming, stir-frying and deep-frying. See also noodles.
Asian Pear
there are so many varieties of Asian pear that no one description can apply to them all. Generally though this fruit is round with speckled tan skin and has a crisp, firm, grainy white texture similar to that of a pear, an apple or at times, a water chestnut. The taste is a cross between an apple and a pear - has a slight perfume quality. Native to China and Japan, Asian pears are also grown in many states in the U.S. They may be eaten raw or cooked.
Asparagus
a member of the lily family with an erect stalk and small, scale-like leaves along the stalk, capped by a ruffle of small leaves; a young stalk is tender with a slightly pungent, bitter flavor, an apple green color and a purple-tinged tip; becomes tougher as it ages.
aspartame
An artificial sweetener that's 180-200 times sweeter than sugar. It's synthesized from two amino acids
Aspic
a jelly produced from the stock of meat fish, fowl or a liquid held together with gelatin.
assaisonné
French for "seasoned" or "seasoned with."
Assam tea
Hailing from India's Assam district, this black tea produces a strong-flavored, full-bodied brew with a reddish tinge. See also tea.
Assiette
French for "assortment," as in cheeses.
Asti Spumante
A sweet sparkling white wine generally served as a dessert wine but sometimes as an apéritif. Asti Spumante tastes decidedly of the muscat grape from which it's made. It hails from the area around the town of Asti in the Piedmont region of northern Italy.
atemoya
Though it's cultivated in Florida, this cross between cherimoya and sweetsop is a native of South America and the West Indies. About the size of a large sweet bell pepper, the atemoya has a tough dusty green skin that has a rough petal configuration. The custardlike pulp is cream-colored and studded with a smattering of large black seeds. Its delicate, sweet flavor tastes like a blend of mango and vanilla. Atemoyas are in season from late summer through late fall. Though they often split slightly at their stem end when ripe, it's best to buy them when they're pale green and tender with unbroken skin. The fruit can continue to ripen at room temperature at home. Refrigerate ripe atemoyas 3 to 5 days. They're best served chilled. Simply halve the fruit, spoon out the pulp and enjoy. Atemoyas are high in potassium and vitamins C and K.
Athol Brose
a Scottish drink made of whisky, oatmeal, and cream sweetened with honey.
atole
Said to date back to pre-Columbian times, atole is a very thick beverage that's popular in Mexico and some parts of the American Southwest. It's a combination of masa, water or milk, crushed fruit and sugar or honey. Latin markets sell instant atole, which can be mixed with milk or water. Atole can be served hot or room temperature.
au bleu
The French term for the method of preparing fish the instant after it's killed. Used especially for trout, as in truite au bleu, where the freshly killed fish is plunged into a boiling court-bouillon, which turns the skin a metallic blue color.
au Gratin
a French term referring to a dish with a browned topping of bread crumbs and/or grated cheese; also known as gratiné.
au Jus
French term for roasted meats, poultry or game served with their natural, unthickened juices.
au lait
French for "with milk," referring to foods or beverages served or prepared with milk, as in café au lait.
au Naturel
dishes cooked as simply as possible and served with a minimum of accompaniments.
Aubergine
French for eggplant.
aurore sauce
Béchamel sauce with just enough tomato puree added to tint it pink.
Auslese
The German word for "selection," used in the wine trade to describe specially selected, perfectly ripened bunches of grapes that are hand-picked, then pressed separately from other grapes. The superior wine made from these grapes is sweet and expensive. See also beerenauslese; spätlese; trockenbeerenauslese.
avgolemono
A Greek soup as well as a sauce, both of which are made from chicken broth, egg yolks and lemon juice. The main difference is that the soup has rice added to it. The sauce is thicker than the soup.
avocadito
Another name for the cocktail avocado.
Avocado
a tropical fruit with a single large pit, spherical to pear shape, smooth to rough-textured skin with a green to purplish color and yellow to green flesh with a buttery texture and high unsaturated fat content; generally used like a vegetable and consumed raw; also known as an alligator pear.
B & B
A combination of half Bénédictine and half brandy; available already mixed and bottled.
bâtarde
Literally translated as "bastard," culinarily batarde refers to a traditional white loaf of bread that's slightly larger than a baguette.
Béarnaise
A classic reduction of wine, vinegar, tarragon and shallots, finished with egg yolks and butter.
béarnaise sauce
A classic French sauce made with a reduction of vinegar, wine, tarragon and shallots and finished with egg yolks and butter. Béarnaise is served with meat, fish, eggs and vegetables.
Béchamel
a French leading sauce made by thickening milk with a white roux and adding seasonings; also known as a cream sauce and a white sauce.
Béchamel sauce
Also called by its Italian name, balsamella, this basic French white sauce is made by stirring milk into a butter-flour roux. The thickness of the sauce depends on the proportion of flour and butter to milk. The proportions for a thin sauce would be 1 tablespoon each of butter and flour per 1 cup of milk; a medium sauce would use 2 tablespoons each of butter and flour; a thick sauce, 3 tablespoons each. Béchamel, the base of many other sauces, was named after its inventor, Louis xiv's steward Louis de Béchamel.
Bénédictine; benedictine
1. A sweet liqueur named after the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Fecamp, Normandy, who first began making it in the 16th century. Though the recipe is a closely guarded secret, it is known that Bénédictine is cognac-based and flavored with various aromatics, fruit peels and herbs. 2. A local specialty of Louisville, Kentucky, benedictine is a spread made with cream cheese, cucumbers and dill, all tinted brightly with green food coloring. It's named after its creator, caterer Jennie Benedict.
Bûcheron cheese
A tangy yet mild chèvre (goat cheese) that is usually soft and spreadable. Bûcheron comes in logs either with white rinds or covered with black ash. See also cheese.
b'steeya
A Moroccan dish of phyllo dough surrounding a melange of shredded chicken, ground almonds and spices. The "pie" is baked until a crisp golden brown, then sprinkled with confectioners' sugar and cinnamon. Also spelled bastela, bastila, bisteeya and pastilla.
baba
Also called baba au rhum, this rich, light currant- or raisin-studded yeast cake is soaked in a rum or kirsch syrup. It's said to have been invented in the 1600s by Polish King Lesczyinski, who soaked his stale kugelhopf in rum and named the dessert after the storybook hero Ali Baba. The classic baba is baked in a tall, cylindrical mold but the cake can be made in a variety of shapes, including small individual rounds. When the cake is baked in a large ring mold it's known as a savarin.
Baba ghanouj
alt spellings: Baba gannoujh, Baba ghanoushA spreadable mix of eggplant, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic.
baba ghanoush; baba gannoujh
A Middle Eastern puree of eggplant, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. It's garnished with pomegranate seeds, chopped mint or minced pistachios and used as a spread or dip for pita or Middle Eastern flat bread.
babaco
Indiginous to Ecuador, this natural papaya hybrid is torpedo shaped and has five flattened facets. When sliced crosswise, the facets give this exotic fruit a pentagonal outline. Babacos range from 8 to 12 inches long and are about 4 inches in diameter. The skin, which is entirely edible, turns from green to golden yellow as it ripens. The riper and softer the fruit, the more flavorful it is. The rich flavor of the extremely fragrant babaco is a cross between banana and pineapple, though not as sweet as either. The juicy, creamy white flesh has a texture similar to that of a casaba melon. The hard-to-find babaco is sometimes available in specialty produce markets. It will ripen quickly at room temperature, especially if placed in a brown paper bag. Refrigerate ripe fruit and use as soon as possible. Babaco is best eaten raw. It contains triple the amount of papain as the papaya and is a good source of vitamins A and C.
babka
Hailing from Poland, this rum-scented sweet yeast bread is studded with almonds, raisins and orange peel.
bacalao
The Spanish term for dried salt cod. See also saltfish.
baccalà
The Italian term for dried salt cod. See also saltfish.
back of the house
A term used in the restaurant business to refer to kitchen area and staff, as opposed to the dining room the "front of the house."
Bagel
a dense, doughnut-shaped Jewish yeast roll; cooked in boiling water, then baked, which gives the rolls a shiny glaze and chewy texture.
bagna cauda
This specialty of Piedmont, Italy, is a sauce made of olive oil, butter, garlic and anchovies. It's served warm as an appetizer with raw vegetables for dipping. The term comes from bagno caldo, Italian for "hot bath."
bagoong
A Philippine condiment that's popular in Hawaii and throughout the Pacific. Bagoong is made from small fish that have been salted, cured and fermented for several weeks. The resulting salty liquid (called patis ) is drawn off and used separately as a sauce or condiment. In addition to being served as a condiment, bagoong is used as a flavoring in many dishes.
Baguette
a long, thin, crisp loaf of French bread.
baguette pan
A long metal pan shaped like two half-cylinders joined along one long side. Each compartment is about 3 inches wide and 15 inches long. This pan is used to bake French baguettes.
Bain-marie
The French term for the cooking technique we call a water bath . It consists of placing a container (baking pan, bowl, soufflé dish, etc.) of food in a large, shallow pan of warm water, which surrounds the food with gentle heat. The food may be cooked in this manner either in an oven or on top of a range. This technique is designed to cook delicate dishes such as custards, sauces and mousses without breaking or curdling them. It can also be used to keep cooked foods warm.
Bake
to cook in an oven, surrounding the food with dry heat of a specific temperature.
bake blind
An English term for baking a pastry shell before it is filled. The shell is usually pricked all over with a fork to prevent it from blistering and rising. Sometimes it's lined with foil or parchment paper, then filled with dried beans or rice, or metal or ceramic pie weights. The French sometimes fill the shell with clean round pebbles. The weights and foil or parchment paper should be removed a few minutes before the baking time is over to allow the crust to brown evenly.
Bake Blind (also called blind baking)
A term for baking a pastry shell (pie crust) before it is filled. There are two methods used. 1. The unbaked shell is first pricked all over with a fork to prevent it from blistering and rising and then baked. 2. The unbaked shell is lined with foil or parchment paper, then filled with dried beans or rice, clean pebbles (a French practice) or specialty pie weights made of metal or ceramic. The weights and foil or parchment paper should be removed a few minutes before the baking time is over to allow the crust to brown evenly.
Bake Cups
paper or foil shaped, pleated cups used to line cupcake or muffin tins to prevent batter from sticking to the pan during the cooking process.
baked Alaska
A dessert consisting of a layer of sponge cake topped by a thick slab of ice cream, all of which is blanketed with meringue. This creation is then baked in a very hot oven for about 5 minutes, or until the surface is golden brown. The meringue layer insulates the ice cream and prevents it from melting.
Baking Powder
a mixture of sodium bicarbonate and one or more acids, generally cream of tartar and/or sodium aluminum sulfate, used to leaven baked goods; releases carbon dioxide gas if moisture is present in a formula.
baking sheet
A flat, rigid sheet of metal on which cookies, breads, biscuits, etc. are baked. It usually has one or more turned-up sides for ease in handling. Shiny, heavy-gauge aluminum baking sheets are good heat conductors and will produce evenly baked and browned goods. Dark sheets absorb heat and should be used only for items on which a dark, crisp exterior is desired. Insulated baking sheets (two sheets of aluminum with an air space sealed between them) are good for soft cookies or bread crusts, but many baked goods will not get crisp on them. Cookies and breadstuffs may burn on lightweight baking sheets. To alleviate this problem, place one lightweight sheet on top of another for added insulation. For even heat circulation, baking sheets should be at least 2 inches smaller all around than the interior of the oven.
Baking Soda
sodium bicarbonate, an alkaline compound that releases carbon dioxide gas when combined with an acid and moisture; used to leaven baked goods.
baking stone
A heavy, thick, round or rectangular plate of light brown stone used to duplicate the baking qualities of the brick floors of some commercial bread and pizza ovens. A baking stone should be placed on the lowest oven shelf and preheated with the oven. The item to be baked is then placed directly on the baking stone in the oven. Dough-filled pans or baking sheets may be placed on the stone for a crisper, browner crust. When not in use, the stone can be left in the oven. Baking tiles, which are usually less expensive than baking stones, are thick, unglazed quarry tiles 8 to 12 inches square. Look for high-fired tiles, which do not crack as readily as low-fired tiles. Also available are sets of eight small, 8- by 4-inch clay tiles that come on an aluminum tray for ease in handling.
Baklava
a Middle Easter sweet rich with honey and nuts and made from filo, a paper-thin pastry in many flaky layers.
balachan; blachan
A popular flavoring in the cuisines of Southeast Asian countries such as Malaysia, Burma and Indonesia. It is made from sardines and other small salted fish that have been allowed to ferment in the sun until very pungent and odorous. It's then mashed and in some cases dried. Balachan is available in paste, powder or cake form in Asian markets.
Baldwin apple
Hailing from the New York region, this all-purpose red-skinned apple is mottled and streaked with yellow. It has a mildly sweet-tart flavor and fairly crisp texture and is available from October to April. See also apple.
ballotine; ballottine
Meat, fish or fowl that has been boned, stuffed, rolled and tied in the shape of a bundle. It is then braised or roasted and is normally served hot but can be served cold. Often confused with galantine, which is poached and served cold.
Bamboo Shoot
the crunch tip of a young bamboo tree. It is served in Oriental dishes.
Banana
the berry of a large tropical herb; the fruit grows in clusters (hands) and is long and curving with a brown-stained yellow skin (it is harvested while still green), a slightly sticky, floury, off-white pulp and a distinctive sweet flavor and aroma.
banana split
A dessert made of a banana cut in half lengthwise and placed in an individual-size bowl (preferably oblong). The banana is topped with three scoops of ice cream (traditionally chocolate, vanilla and strawberry), over which sweet syrups are poured (usually chocolate, butterscotch and marshmallow). The entire concoction is topped with rosettes of whipped cream and a maraschino cherry.
bananas Foster
Created at New Orleans's Brennan's Restaurant in the 1950s, this dessert consists of lengthwise-sliced bananas quickly sautéed in a mixture of rum, brown sugar and banana liqueur and served with vanilla ice cream. It was named for Richard Foster, a regular Brennan's customer.
Banbury cake
Originating in Banbury, Oxfordshire, in England, this oval "cake" is made of a flaky pastry filled with mixed dried fruit.
banger
British slang for a number of English sausages originally made of ground beef and bread crumbs.
banneton
A French, cloth-lined woven basket in which bread is allowed to rise before being baked.
Bannock
a Scottish round cake.
banon; le banon
A French goat's-milk cheese that is cured in chestnut leaves and sometimes washed in marc or cognac. It has a soft to semisoft texture and a mild lemony flavor, and is best from late spring to early fall. See also cheese.
bap
A soft yeast roll with a characteristic floury finish. Baps are popular in Scotland as hot breakfast rolls.
bar cookie
A cookie made by spooning a batter or soft dough into a baking pan. The mixture is baked, cooled in the pan and then cut into bars, squares or diamonds. See also cookie.
Bar-le-Duc
A choice currant preserve that originally came from the French town of Bar-le-Duc in Lorraine. At one time, the preserve was made from white currants whose tiny seeds were removed manually. Today it's made with red and white currants as well as other berry fruits, and the seeds are not generally removed by hand.
barack
Made of apricots, this Hungarian eau de vie has a distinctive flavor somewhere between apricots and slivovitz.
Barbecue
to roast or broil whole, as a hog, fowl, etc. Usually done on a revolving frame over coals or upright in front of coals. To cook thin slices of meat in a highly seasoned vinegar sauce.
barbecue sauce
A sauce used to baste barbecued meat; also used as an accompaniment to the meat after it's cooked. It is traditionally made with tomatoes, onion, mustard, garlic, brown sugar and vinegar; beer and wine are also popular ingredients.
barbecue; barbeque
n. 1. Commonly referred to as a grill, a barbecue is generally a brazier fitted with a grill and sometimes a spit. The brazier can range anywhere from a simple firebowl, which uses hot coals as heat, to an elaborate electric barbecue. 2. Food (usually meat) that has been cooked using a barbecue method. 3. A term used in the United States for an informal style of outdoor entertaining where barbecued food is served. barbecue v. A method of cooking by which meat, poultry or fish (either whole or in pieces) or other food is covered and slowly cooked in a pit or on a spit, using hot coals or hardwood as a heat source. The food is basted, usually with a highly seasoned sauce, to keep it moist. South Carolina and Texas boast two of the most famous American regional barbecue styles.
barberry
Native throughout most of Europe and also grown in New England, the barberry has elongated bright red berries which, because of their high acidity, are seldom eaten raw. Some varieties produce white or yellow fruit. Ripe barberries are used in pies, preserves and syrups; they can also be candied. Green berries are sometimes pickled and used as a relish.
bard
To tie fat around lean meats or fowl to prevent their drying out during roasting. Barding is necessary only when natural fat is absent. The barding fat bastes the meat while it cooks, thereby keeping it moist and adding flavor. The fat is removed a few minutes before the meat is done to allow the meat to brown.
Bardolino
A light, fruity red wine from northern Italy, similar to valpolicella. Bardolino is best drunk young.
Barley
a small, spherical grain grown worldwide and usually pearled to remove its outer husk; the white grain has a slightly sweet, nutty, earthy flavor, chewy texture and high starch content; also known as pearl barley.
barley sugar
A hard, lemon-flavored candy that was originally made from barley water to which sugar had been added. It's now more often made with plain water, with tartaric acid added to achieve a similar flavor and texture.
barm brack; barmbrack
An Irish bread with raisins or currants and candied fruit peel. It's generally slathered with butter and served as a tea accompaniment. Literally translated it means "yeast bread," although it's not always made with yeast.
Barolo
From the Piedmont region, this exceptional Italian red wine, made from Nebbiolo grapes, is known for its lush bouquet and robust body.
baron
In England, a large cut of beef (50 to 100 pounds, depending on the size of the animal) usually consisting of a double sirloin. A baron of beef is generally roasted only for traditional or ceremonial occasions. In France, a baron refers to the saddle and two legs of lamb or mutton.
barquette
A boat-shaped pastry shell that can contain a savory filling (when served as an appetizer) or a sweet filling (for a dessert).
barracuda
The type most commonly found in American markets is the Pacific barracuda (also called California barracuda), which usually ranges from 4 to 8 pounds. It's a firm-textured fish with a moderate fat content and is best grilled or broiled. Barracuda can be substituted for wahoo or mahi mahi. The great barracuda, whose flesh is often toxic, can weigh over 100 pounds and can exceed 6 feet in length. See also fish.
Bartlett pear
This large bell-shaped fruit has a smooth, yellow-green skin that is sometimes blushed with red. The Bartlett's flesh is sweet and juicy. It's generally available from late July through October and is delicious either cooked or raw. Developed in 18th-century England, it was introduced to America by Dorchester, Massachusetts, resident Enoch Bartlett. See also pear.
Basil
an herb and member of the mint family; has soft, shiny light green leaves, small white flowers and a strong, pungent peppery flavor reminiscent of licorice and cloves (other varieties are available with flavors reminiscent of foods such as cinnamon, garlic, lemon and chocolate); available fresh and dried; also known as sweet basil.
Basmati
an aged, aromatic long-grain rice grown in the Himalayan foothills; has a creamy yellow color, distinctive sweet, nutty aroma and delicate flavor.
basmati rice
Literally translated as "queen of fragrance," basmati has been grown in the foothills of the Himalayas for thousands of years. Its perfumy, nutlike flavor and aroma can be attributed to the fact that the grain is aged to decrease its moisture content. Basmati is a long-grained rice with a fine texture. It can be found in Indian and Middle Eastern markets and some supermarkets. See also rice.
bass
A general term for any of numerous (often unrelated) freshwater or saltwater fish, many of which are characterized by spiny fins. In fact, though many of these different species are often sold simply as bass, the only fish with the single name "bass" is a European species (unavailable in the United States), which in France is known as bar or loup. True basses include the groupers, black sea bass and striped bass. Among other fish that are commonly referred to as bass are the largemouth, redeye, rock, smallmouth and spotted bass, all of which are really members of the sunfish family. See also sea bass; fish.
Baste
to moisten the food as it cooks by spooning or brushing it at regular intervals with a liquid such as melted fat, meat drippings, fruit juice, sauce or water. This is done to add flavor and color to the food and to prevent drying of the surface.
Basturma
Armenian cured and spiced meat.
Bath bun
Said to have originated in the English town of Bath in the 18th century, this sugar-coated yeast bun is studded with candied fruit and currants or golden raisins.
baton; batonnet
1. Culinarily, this French word describes a white loaf of bread that's somewhat smaller than a baguette. 2. The term can also refer to various small, stick (baton) shaped foods such as vegetables or pastries that may or may not have a filling.
Batter
a semiliquid mixture containing flour or other starch used to make cakes and breads; gluten development is minimized and the liquid forms the continuous medium in which other ingredients are disbursed; generally contains more fat, sugar and liquids than a dough.
batter bread
A yeast bread that is formed without kneading. It begins with a very thick batter that often requires extra yeast and, in order to stretch the gluten so the bread will rise effectively, always demands vigorous beating (which can be accomplished with an electric mixer). The mixture should be stiff enough for a spoon to stand up in. A batter bread's texture won't be as refined as that of a bread that has been kneaded but the results are equally delicious.
batterie de cuisine
The French term for the cooking equipment and utensils necessary to equip a kitchen.
bauerwurst
A coarse-textured German sausage that is smoked (see cure) and highly seasoned. It's usually steamed or sautéed.See also sausage.
Bavarian Cream
a soft, sweet egg custard mixed with gelatin and whipped cream, then flavored with fruit.
bavarois
French for "bavarian cream."
bavettine
Narrow linguine. See also pasta.
bay leaf
Also called laurel leaf or bay laurel, this aromatic herb comes from the evergreen bay laurel tree, native to the Mediterranean. Early Greeks and Romans attributed magical properties to the laurel leaf and it has long been a symbol of honor, celebration and triumph, as in "winning your laurels." The two main varieties of bay leaf are Turkish (which has 1- to 2-inch-long oval leaves) and Californian (with narrow, 2- to 3-inch-long leaves). The Turkish bay leaves have a more subtle flavor than do the California variety. Bay leaves are used to flavor soups, stews, vegetables and meats. They're generally removed before serving. Overuse of this herb can make a dish bitter. Fresh bay leaves are seldom available in markets. Dried bay leaves, which have a fraction of the flavor of fresh, can be found in supermarkets. Store dried bay leaves airtight in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. See also herbs; herb and spice chart.
Bay Leaves
a small tree of the laurel family native to Asia; produces firm leaves, which are shiny on top and dull beneath; used as an herb, the leaves impart a lemon-nutmeg flavor and are usually removed from whatever food they are used to flavor before the item is eaten.
beach plum
A wild, dark purple plum found growing in sandy soil along the Atlantic coast. Its flavor is reminiscent of a grape-plum cross but because it's quite tart and bitter, the beach plum is not good for out-of-hand eating. It makes superior jams and jellies, however, as well as a delicious condiment for meats.
Bean
These seeded pods of various legumes are among the oldest foods known to humanity, dating back at least 4,000 years. They come in two broad categories fresh and dried. Some beans, such as black-eyed peas, lima beans and cranberry beans, can be found in both fresh and dried forms. Fresh beans are those that are commercially available in their fresh form and are generally sold in their pods. The three most commonly available fresh-bean varieties are green beans (eaten with their shell or pod) and lima beans and fava (or broad) beans, which are eaten shelled. Store fresh beans in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator up to 5 days; after that, both color and flavor begin to diminish. If cooked properly, fresh beans contain a fair amount of vitamins A and C; lima beans are also a good source of protein. Dried beans are available prepackaged or in bulk. Some of the more popular dried beans are black beans, chickpeas, kidney beans, pink beans and pinto beans. Dried beans must usually be soaked in water for several hours or overnight to rehydrate them before cooking. Beans labeled "quick-cooking" have been presoaked and redried before packaging; they require no presoaking and take considerably less time to prepare. The texture of these "quick" beans, however, is not as firm to the bite as regular dried beans. Store dried beans in an airtight container for up to a year. The flatulence caused by dried beans is created by oligosaccharides, complex sugars that because they're indigestible by normal stomach enzymes proceed into the lower intestine where they're eaten (and fermented) by friendly bacteria, the result of which is gas (see digestive enzymes). Dried beans are rich in protein, calcium, phosphorus and iron. Their high protein content, along with the fact that they're easily grown and stored, make them a staple throughout many parts of the world where animal protein is scarce or expensive. See also adzuki; cannellini; fermented black beans; french bean; great northern; marrow beans; mung; navy; pea bean; pigeon pea; red beans; runner; soybean; sprouts; white bean; winged; yard-long.
Bean Curd
a soybean custard used in Oriental dishes
Beat
to make a mixture smooth and introduce air by brisk regular motion that lifts mixture over and over. To mix vigorously with a brisk motion with spoon, fork, egg beater, or electric mixer.
beaten biscuit
A traditional Southern biscuit that dates back to the 1800s. Whereas most biscuits are soft and light, beaten biscuits are hard and crisp. The classic texture is obtained by beating the dough for 30 to 45 minutes until it becomes blistered, elastic and smooth. The beating may be done with a mallet, rolling pin, the flat side of a cleaver... any heavy object that will pound the dough into submission. One can also use an old-fashioned beaten-biscuit machine, a contraption with wooden or metal rollers reminiscent of an old-time clothes wringer. The dough is passed through the rollers, which are operated by a hand crank. This method takes no less time but saves on the wear and tear of the baker. After the dough is beaten, it is rolled out, cut into small circles and pricked with the tines of a fork before being baked.
Beaujolais
Light and dry, this fruity red wine comes from a hilly region in southern Burgundy. Beaujolais Nouveau is new wine, bottled right after fermentation without aging. It's very light and fruity and should be drunk within a few months.
Beef
the meat of bovines (ex. cows, steers and bulls) slaughtered when older than 1 year; generally, has a dark red color, rich flavor, interior marbling, external fat and a firm to tender texture.
beef à la mode
A dish made by larding a piece of beef (such as a beef round), marinating it for several hours in a red wine/brandy mixture before braising it. The beef is sliced very thin and served with a sauce made from the marinade. The French name is boeuf à la mode.
beef tartare
A dish of coarsely ground or finely chopped high-quality, raw lean beef that has been seasoned with salt, pepper and herbs. It's thought to have originated in the Baltic provinces of Russia where, in medieval times, the Tartars shredded red meat with a knife and ate it raw. Today the seasoned raw meat is usually shaped into a mound with an indentation in the top, into which is placed a raw egg yolk. Beef tartare (also referred to as steak tartare ) is usually served with capers, chopped parsley and onions.
beef Wellington
A fillet of beef that has been covered with pâté de foie gras or duxelles, wrapped in pastry and baked.
beefalo
A cross between the American bison (commonly called buffalo) and cattle, the beef strain being dominant. The dark red meat of beefalo is very lean and has a somewhat stronger flavor than beef. It may be cooked in any manner suitable for beef and is currently available only in specialty meat markets.
Beer
a mild alcoholic drink made by boiling malted barley with hops and then fermenting.
Beerenauslese
Any of several fine, sweet German wines made from superior, slightly overripe grapes that have been individually picked or cut from their bunches. Some Beerenausleses are made from grapes that have been infected with botrytis cinerea (noble rot). Because of their special selection and picking, these wines are very choice and expensive. See also auslese; spätlese; trockenbeerenauslese.
Beet
a large bulbous edible root with an edible leafy green top; its color is typically garnet red but can range from pinkish-white to deep red; also know as the garden beet, red beet and beetroot (especially in Great Britain).
beggar's purse
The name for an appetizer made popular by Barry and Susan Wine at their New York restaurant, the Quilted Giraffe. A beggar's purse consists of a mini crêpe topped by a teaspoon of the finest caviar and then a dab of crème fraiche. The edges of the crêpe are pulled up in pleats around the filling and securely tied with a chive. The ruffle at the top makes this edible package look like a miniature purse. Beggar's purses are served at room temperature.
Beignet
A sweet or savory fritter from New Orleans.
Bel Paese
Translated as "beautiful country," this popular semisoft Italian cheese has a mild, buttery flavor that is delicious with fruity wines. Though originally and still made in a small town outside Milan, Bel Paese is now also produced in the United States. It can be served as a dessert cheese or for snacks and melts beautifully for use in casseroles or on pizza. See also cheese.
Bell Pepper
a large fresh sweet pepper with a bell-like shape, thick juicy flesh, a mild sweet flavor and available in various colors, including green ( the most common), red ( a green bell pepper that has been allowed to ripen), white, brown, purple, yellow and orange; also known as a sweet pepper, sweet bell pepper and green pepper.
Bellelay cheese
Also called Tête de Moine ("monk's head"), this rich, semisoft cheese is made in Switzerland and has a flavor similar to that of gruyère. It is named after the monastery where it originated, the Abbey of Bellelay in the canton of Bern. See also cheese.
Bellini
An apéritif made with peach nectar and champagne.
beni shoga
Gingerroot that's been pickled in sweet vinegar and colored bright red. Beni shoga is used as a garnish for many Japanese dishes, especially sushi, and is also eaten to refresh the palate. It's available in thin slices, shredded or in knobs and can be found in Asian markets. Beni shoga is also called gari. See also amazu shoga.
benne wafers
A traditional recipe from the Old South, benne wafers are thin, crisp cookies made with brown sugar, pecans and sesame seed.
bento; bento box
A thin metal or lacquered wooden box divided into compartments. The bento box is used in Japan for storing separate small dishes that comprise an individual meal (most often lunch). In Japan, the bento lunch, which is commonly available at train stations, represents fast food elevated to high culinary art and design. Each of the country's 5,000 stations sells a unique box lunch that reflects the cooking of the region. The beautifully designed bento boxes can take on myriad shapes including masks, tennis rackets, nuts, golf balls or other objects both traditional and whimsical. More than twelve million bento-box meals are sold to hungry travelers and commuters in Japan each day.
berbere
An Ethiopian spice blend containing garlic, red pepper, cardamom, coriander, fenugreek and various other spices. It's often used in stews and soups.
Bercy
Bercy is a section of Paris after which two sauces are named. Bercy butter is a sauce made with a reduction of white wine with shallots, butter, marrow, lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper. It's served with broiled or grilled meat or fish. Bercy sauce is a fish stock-based velouté with shallots a reduction of white wine, fish stock and seasonings. It's served with fish.
bergamot
A small acidic orange with a peel that yields an essential oil called essence of bergamot which is used for perfumes and confections. The peel is used in earl gray tea. It's also candied and used in the same way as other candied fruit peels.
besan
Used in East Indian cooking, besan is a pale yellow flour made from ground, dried chickpeas. This nutritious, high-protein flour is used for myriad preparations including doughs, dumplings, noodles, a thickener for sauces and in batter for deep-fried foods. Besan, also known as gram flour, can be found in Indian or Asian markets. Store, wrapped airtight, in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.
beta carotene
One of the most important and abundant of the carotenes, a portion of which the liver converts to vitamin A. It should be noted, however, that while excess vitamin A can be toxic to the body, residual beta carotene is quickly eliminated. Scientists now believe that beta carotene is a powerful antioxidant with properties that can contribute to reducing cancer and heart disease. It's found in vegetables like carrots, broccoli, squash, spinach and sweet potatoes. Beta carotene's orange-yellow pigment is also used as a coloring in foods like butter and margarine.
betty
Dating back to colonial America, betties are baked puddings made of layers of sugared and spiced fruit and buttered bread crumbs. Though many fruits can be used, the most popular is Apple Brown Betty, made with sliced apples and brown sugar.
beurre
The French word for "butter."
Beurre blanc
A thick sauce of butter, white wine and vinegar.
beurre composé
The French term for "compound butter."
beurre manié
French for "kneaded butter," beurre manié is a paste made of softened butter and flour (usually in equal parts) that is used to thicken sauces.
Beurre Manie
thickener made by combining 2 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour. Form into small balls. A thick, buttery paste will result. Beurre Manie is beaten into the cooking liquid of casseroles or soups of sauces that are too thin, or that are meant to be thickened after the cooking is almost complete.
beurre noir
A French term meaning "black butter," referring to butter cooked over low heat until dark brown (not black). Beurre noir is usually flavored with vinegar or lemon juice, capers and parsley and served with eggs, fish, brains and some vegetables.
Beurre noisette
Butter cooked to a hazelnut (noisette) color.
Beurre rouge
Beurre blanc, but with red wine instead of white.
bialy
Jewish-American in origin, this large very chewy yeast roll is round and flat with a depression in the center. The bialy is sprinkled with sautéed chopped onion before baking. The name comes from the Polish city of Bialystok.
Bibb Lettuce
a variety of butterhead lettuce with soft, pliable green leaves that have a buttery texture and flavor and are smaller and darker than Boston lettuce leaves; also known as limestone lettuce.
Bierkäse
Literally translated as "beer cheese," this soft, ripened German cheese has a sharp, pungent flavor similar to limburger. It goes well with dark bread and dark beer. See also cheese.
bierwurst; beerwurst
A German cooked sausage with a garlicky flavor and dark red color. It's usually sold as sandwich meat. See also sausage.
bigarade sauce
A classic French brown sauce flavored with oranges and served with duck. Bigarade sauce combines beef stock, duck drippings, orange and lemon juice, blanched orange peel, and if desired, curaçao. The original French recipe used bitter Seville oranges (bigarade is French for "bitter orange"). Today's cooks should avoid using overly sweet citrus in this sauce.
bigos
A Polish dish consisting of layers of sauerkraut, onions and apples with cooked meats such as venison, chicken, duck, veal, cured meats or sausages. The layers are buttered, stock is poured over all and the casserole is baked slowly to allow the flavors to mingle. Tradition says that bigos should be made several days in advance because it is best when reheated.
bilberry
Also called whortleberry, this indigo-blue berry grows wild in Great Britain and other parts of Europe from July to September, depending on the area. Bilberries are smaller and tarter than their cousin the American blueberry, and make delicious jams, syrups and tarts.
billy bi; billi-bi
An elegant French soup made with mussels, onions, wine, cream and seasonings. The mussels are strained out of a classic billy bi, leaving a smooth and silky soup. However, today it is often served with the mussels. Though there are several stories of the soup's origin, the most popular is that Maxim's chef Louis Barthe named it after a regular patron who particularly loved the soup, American tin tycoon William B. (Billy B.) Leeds.
biltong
Developed in South Africa and a staple in many African countries, biltong consists of strips of cured, air-dried beef or game. Though its keeping properties are the same, it is a finer form of jerked meat than American jerky. The best biltong has been compared to the prosciutto of Italy.
Bind
to cause a mixture to hold together by beating in an egg, sauce, or some other thickening agent.
Bing cherry
A very large, delicious cherry that ranges in color from a deep garnet to almost black. The skin is smooth and glossy and the flesh firm and sweet. Bing cherries are good for cooking as well as out-of-hand eating. See also cherry.
biotechnology; bioengineered foods
Very basically, food-related biotechnology is the process by which a specific gene or group of genes with desirable traits are removed from the dna of one plant or animal cell and spliced into that of another. Such beneficial genes might come from animals, (friendly) bacteria, fish, insects, plants and even humans. In some instances, genes that create problems (such as the natural softening of a tomato) are simply removed and not replaced. Tomatoes, for example, are generally picked green and gas-ripened later because, during shipping, they would become soft, bruised and unmarketable. A bioengineered tomato, however, can be picked ripe and shipped without softening. The objective of food biotechnology is to develop insect- and disease-resistant, shipping- and shelf-stable foods with improved appearance, texture and flavor. Additionally, biotechnology advocates say that the process will produce plants that are resistant to adverse weather conditions such as drought and frost, thereby increasing food production in previously prohibitive climate and soil conditions. They also envision increasing nutrient levels and decreasing pesticide usage through biotechnology. On the other hand, critics argue that, because biotechnology is producing new foods not previously consumed by humans, the changes and potential risks relating to such things as toxins, allergens and reduced nutrients are unpredictable. They also worry that, because genetically altered foods are not required to be labeled, people with religious or lifestyle dietary restrictions might unintentionally consume prohibited foods.
birch beer
Dating back to the late 1800s, this American carbonated drink (usually nonalcoholic) is flavored with an extract from birch bark. It's sweet and similar in flavor to root beer.
biscotto
A twice-baked Italian biscuit (cookie) that's made by first baking it in a loaf, then slicing the loaf and baking the slices. The result is an intensely crunchy cookie that is perfect for dipping into dessert wine or coffee. Biscotti can be variously flavored; the most popular additions are anise seed, hazelnuts or almonds.
biscuit
1. In America, biscuits refer to small quick breads, which often use leaveners like baking powder or baking soda. Biscuits are generally savory (but can be sweet), and the texture should be tender and light. 2. In the British Isles, the term "biscuit" usually refers to a flat, thin cookie or cracker. 3. The word biscuit comes from the French bis cuit ("twice cooked"), which is what the original sea biscuits aboard ship had to be in order to remain crisp.
bishop; bischof
This traditional northern European drink, similar to mulled wine, consists of wine or port that is heated with spices and orange peel and served hot.
bismarck
An elongated jelly-filled doughnut, also known as a Long John and Berlin doughnut. The bismarck can be baked or fried and sugar-coated or frosted.
Bisque
a thick, creamy soup usually of shellfish, but sometimes made of pureed vegetables.
Bisteeya
alt spellings: B'steeyaMoroccan pie of phyllo dough, shredded chicken, ground almonds and spices.
bistro
A small cafe, usually serving modest, down-to-earth food and wine. This word is also sometimes used to refer to a small nightclub (the French bistrot means "pub").
Bite-Size
to cut into pieces which would easily fit into the mouth, approximately 1/2 inch.
bitter melon
Also referred to as a balsam pear, this fruit resembles a cucumber with a bumpy skin and is used as a vegetable in Chinese cooking. When first picked, the bitter melon is yellow-green and has a delicate, sour flavor. As it ripens it turns yellow-orange and becomes bitter and acrid, which is how many people prefer it. Bitter melon is available fresh from April through September in most Asian markets. It can also be purchased canned or dried.
Bitters
an aromatic liquid used to flavor cocktails, soft drinks, as well as soups and sweet dishes, such as ice cream.
Black Bean
a relatively large, dried bean with black skin, cream-colored flesh and a sweet flavor; also called a turtle bean.
black beans
Also called turtle beans, these dried beans have long been popular in Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean and the southern United States. They have a black skin, cream-colored flesh and a sweet flavor, and form the base for the famous black-bean soup. They are commonly available in supermarkets. See also beans.
black bottom pie
A rich pie with a layer of dark chocolate custard, topped with a layer of rum custard. The top is garnished with sweetened whipped cream and chocolate shavings.
black bread
Almost black in color, this European peasant bread gets its hue from a variety of ingredients including dark rye flour, toasted dark bread crumbs, molasses, cocoa powder, dark beer and coffee. It's a hearty, full-flavored loaf that, depending on the baker, can be lightly sweet.
black bun
Not a bun in the sense of bread, the Scottish black bun is a spicy mixture of nuts with dried and candied fruit enclosed in a rich pastry crust. Traditionally, Scots serve it at Hogmanay (the New Year). It's best prepared several weeks in advance so the fruit mixture can ripen and develop flavor.
Black Butter
butter, melted, clarified, and cooked until it is nut brown.
Black Forest torte
The famous Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte hails from Swabia in Germany's Black Forest region. This exquisite dessert is created by layering kirsch-scented chocolate cake, sour cherries and kirsch-laced whipped cream. A generous coating of whipped cream garnished with chocolate curls and cherries completes the cake.
black Russian
A cocktail made with two parts vodka and one part coffee-flavored liqueur served over ice. See also white russian.
black sea bass
A true bass, this Atlantic coast fish can be found from Cape Cod to Florida, though it's more abundant from New York to North Carolina. A best-selling fish, it can vary in color from brown to dark gray. It has a firm, moderately fat flesh that has a delicate flavor, due largely to its diet. Black sea bass is sold whole, and in steaks and fillets. It's suitable for almost any method of preparation. See also sea bass; striped bass; fish.
black trumpet mushroom
Distinctly trumpet-shaped, this mushroom ranges from 2 to 5 inches high. Its flesh is thin and brittle and can range in color from grayish brown to very dark brown or almost black. Black trumpets are distinctively aromatic and have an elegant buttery flavor. They're available midsummer through midfall in specialty produce markets. See also mushroom.
black velvet
A drink made with equal parts champagne and stout. A brown velvet substitutes port for stout.
black walnut
This native American nut has an extraordinarily hard shell, which makes it extremely difficult to crack and therefore not as popular as the more widely known english walnut. Its strong, slightly bitter flavor is highly valued by black-walnut devotees, but its high fat content makes it turn rancid quickly. See also nuts; walnut.
Black-Eyed Pea
the seed of a member of the pea family native to China; small and beige with a black circular eye on the curved edge and used in southern U.S. and Chinese cuisines; also known as a cowpea (it was first planted in the United States as fodder).
Blackberry
a large shiny berry with a deep purple, almost black color and a sweet flavor; also known as a bramble berry.
blackened
A cooking technique made famous by New Orleans's chef Paul Prudhomme by which meat or fish is cooked in a cast-iron skillet that's been heated until almost red hot. Prudhomme's original specialty was blackened redfish. The food is customarily rubbed with a cajun spice mixture before being cooked. The extra hot skillet combined with the seasoning rub gives food an extra crispy crust.
blackfish
Also called Chinese steelhead and black trout, this lean Pacific fish is a favorite in Chinese communities. It has a delicious, delicate flavor but can be troublesome because of its network of tiny fine bones. It is suitable for most methods of cooking. See also fish.
blanc
French for "white," as in beurre blanc, which means "white butter."
blanc de blancs
French phrase meaning "white wine from white grapes." This term is used to describe champagnes made exclusively from the white Chardonnay grape. It also refers to white wines made entirely from white grapes, rather than from a blend using some red grapes. See also blanc de noirs.
blanc de noirs
The French term meaning "white wine from red grapes." This phrase is used for champagnes and other sparkling wines that are made entirely from pinot noir grapes. Occasionally the term blanc de noirs refers to still (nonsparkling) wines made from cabernet sauvignon, Pinot Noir or zinfandel. The color of blanc de noirs wines varies in hue from pale pink to apricot to salmon. See also blanc de blancs.
Blanch
to immerse food briefly into boiling water, then plunge into cold water. The process firms flesh, heightens and sets color and flavor and loosens skin as in tomatoes intended for peeling.
Blancmange
a sweet pudding made with milk and cornstarch flavored with almonds, vanilla, rum, or brandy.
blanquette
A rich, creamy stew made with veal, chicken or lamb, button mushrooms and small white onions. The name comes from the French word blanc, meaning "white."
Blend
to mix two or more ingredients together thoroughly with a spoon, beater or blender.
blender
A small electrical appliance that uses short rotating blades to chop, blend, puree and liquefy foods. Because blender containers are tall and narrow, air is not incorporated into the food so this appliance will not "whip" foods such as egg whites and cream. Blenders can be used for making soups, purees, sauces, milkshakes and other drinks, as well as for chopping small amounts of foods such as bread crumbs and herbs. See also immersion blender.
blenny
A genus of small (4- to 6-inch-long) freshwater and saltwater fish characterized by its lack of scales; instead, its body is covered by a mucous membrane. The blenny has a mild, white, flavorful flesh and is best served fried. See also fish.
bleu
A French term used for a steak cooked so rare that it is barely warmed through. à point is the next step, which means the steak is cooked rare.
Blind baking
See Bake Blind.
Blini
Russian buckwheat pancakes served with a variety of spreads, notably, sour cream and caviar.
Blintz
a cooked crepe stuffed with cheese or other filling.
blood orange
A sweet-tart orange with a bright red or red-streaked white flesh. Most blood oranges are best eaten fresh, but the more acidic varieties like the Maltese work well in cooked sauces like the hollandaise-based maltaise sauce. See also orange.
Bloody Mary
A popular cocktail made with tomato juice, vodka, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco and other seasonings.
bloom
1. Pale gray streaks and blotches that appear on the surface of chocolate. Bloom is a result of cocoa butter forming crystals on the chocolate, usually caused by the chocolate being stored in too warm an environment. see also chocolate. 2. The pale gray film found on the skin of fruits such as grapes and plums. Fruit bloom is simply nature's waterproofing and completely harmless. 3. A natural, invisible, protective coating found on eggshells. This covering is washed off when usda-graded eggs are sanitized; producers then replace it with a thin film of mineral oil.
blue cheese
This genre of cheese has been treated with molds that form blue or green veins throughout and give the cheese its characteristic flavor. Some of the more popular of the blues include dana-blu, gorgonzola, roquefort and stilton. Blue cheeses tend to be strong in flavor and aroma, both of which intensify with aging. See also cheese.
Blue Hawaii
A sweet cocktail composed of two parts each rum and cream to one part each of cointreau and blue curaçao.
Blueberry
a small berry native to North America; has a smooth skin, blue to blue-black color, juicy light gray-blue flesh and a sweet flavor; eaten raw, used in baked goods or made into jams and jellies.
bluefish
Found along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, the bluefish is nicknamed "bulldog of the ocean" because of its tenacity. It ranges from 3 to 10 pounds and has a fatty, fine-textured flesh that ranges in color from white to silver gray. Removing the dark, oily strip that runs down its center is important to prevent the flesh from absorbing a strong fishy flavor. Bluefish is best when baked or broiled. See also fish.
blush wines
In the United States, the phrase "blush wine" has almost replaced that of rosé, which is considered somewhat passé. Initially, the term applied to very pale-colored rosé wines. Today, however, it's used to encompass a full spectrum of wines that, like rosés, are generally made with red grapes. The juice has had only brief (2 to 3 days') contact with the stems and skins the reason for the wines' pale color. The term "blush," however, is broadly used to describe wines that can range in color from various shades of pink to pale orange to light red. Unlike the common rosé, blush wines can range from dry to sweet and may be light- to medium-bodied. They should be served chilled but not icy and may accompany a variety of lightly flavored foods.
Boboli
The brand name for a popular baked pizza crust topped with a tiny soupçon of cheese (Parmesan and mozzarella) and olive oil. Boboli comes in 4- and 16-ounce sizes.
bobotie
A popular South African dish made of minced lamb and/or beef mixed with bread, rice or mashed potatoes, onions, garlic and curry powder. The ingredients are blended with an egg-and-milk mixture before being baked. Partway through the baking process additional egg-milk mixture is poured over the top. Bobotie is served in squares or wedges.
bocconcini
1. Small nuggets (about 1 inch in diameter) of fresh mozzarella. Bocconcini are generally sold packed in whey or water. 2. Italian for "mouthful," referring not to size, but to the appetizing appeal of dishes described in this manner. Therefore, in Italian cookery, the word bocconcini may be attributed to many dishes. For example, bocconcini di vitello alla crema is a rich preparation of veal chunks cooked with wine, butter, egg yolks and whipping cream. A less rich, but equally tempting, dish is bocconcini Fiorentina pieces of veal or beef sautéed with garlic, onions and herbs, sometimes with the addition of tomatoes.
bock beer
A German beer that is full-bodied, slightly sweet and usually dark. It's brewed in the fall, aged through winter and celebrated in the spring at traditional Bavarian bock beer festivals.
bockwurst
Delicately flavored with chopped parsley and chives, this ground-veal sausage is of German origin. It's generally sold raw and must be well cooked before serving. Bockwurst is traditionally served with bock beer, particularly during springtime. See also sausage.
Body
describes a characteristic of wines. A full bodied wine is rich without bitterness, when it is a good one.
boeuf
The French word for "beef."
Boil
to cook in a liquid which has reached a temperature of 212*F (100*C), or where bubbles are rising continually and are breaking the surface.
boiled icing
A fluffy cake frosting made by gradually pouring a hot sugar syrup over stiffly beaten egg whites, beating constantly until the mixture is smooth and satiny. An Italian meringue is made in the same manner.
boilermaker
A shot of whiskey followed by a chaser of beer.
Boiling-Water-Bath Canning Method
used for processing acid foods, such as fruit, tomatoes, pickled vegetables, and sauerkraut. These acid foods are canned safely at boiling temperatures in a water-bath canner.
boisson
French for "drink" or "beverage."
Bok Choy
a member of the cabbage family native to southern China; has long wide, white crunchy stalks with tender, smooth-edged, dark green leaves; used raw, pickled or cooked; also know as baak choy, Chinese mustard, pak choi and white mustard cabbage.
bollito misto
This classic Italian dish of mixed boiled meats is particulary popular in the Emilia, Lombardy and Piedmont regions. The meats, which include veal, chicken and cotechino sausage, are accompanied by a rich meat broth and a piquant green sauce.
Bologna
a wide diameter, highly seasoned sausage made from beef; named for Bologna, Italy (although the Italian sausage associated with that city is actually mortadella), available cooked and usually served cold; also known as baloney.
bologna; baloney
Precooked and highly seasoned, this popular sausage is usually sliced and served as a sandwich meat or cold cut. The word comes from Italy's city of Bologna, though true Italian bologna sausage is called mortadella. See also sausage.
Bolognese; alla Bolognese
Named after the rich cookery style of Bologna, Italy, Bolognese refers to dishes served with a thick, full-bodied meat and vegetable sauce enhanced with wine and milk or cream. The term alla Bolognese (in French, à la Bolognese ) on a menu designates a pasta or other dish sauced in this manner. The Italian term for this sauce is ragu Bolognese, or often simply ragu.
Bombay duck
Not a duck at all, this pungent, flavorful food is actually dried salted fish. It can be found in East Indian markets and some specialty markets. Bombay duck is most often used to flavor curried dishes. When cooked until crisp, it can also be eaten as a snack.
bombe; bombe glacée
A frozen dessert consisting of layers of ice cream or sherbet. The ice cream is softened and spread, one layer at a time, in a mold. Each layer is hardened before the next one is added. The center of a bombe is often custard laced with fruit. After it's frozen solid, the bombe is unmolded and often served with a dessert sauce. The original bombe molds were spherical; however, any shape mold may be used today.
bon appétit
A French phrase with any of various meanings related to having a good (bon ) appetite (appétit ) such as "have a good meal," (I wish you a) "hearty appetite" or "enjoy your meal." Bon appétit has long been Julia Child's television sign-off.
bonbel cheese
The brand name of a popular semisoft cheese sold in small paraffin-coated rounds. It's pale cream in color and has a mild flavor and smooth, buttery texture that's a perfect complement for fruit; it's also used in sandwiches and salads. See also cheese.
Bonbon
a sweet made of or dipped into fondant.
bone
To remove the bones from meat, fish or fowl.
Bone, to
to remove bones.
Bone-in
a cut of meat containing the bone.
Boned, boneless
a cut of meat from which the bone has been removed.
bonne femme, à la
Literally translated as "good wife," the term bonne femme describes food prepared in an uncomplicated, homey manner. Sole bonne femme is a simply poached fish served with a sauce of white wine and lemon juice, and often garnished with small onions and mushrooms.
bonne-bouche
French for "tasty little bite," referring to any of various small enticements such as a snack, tidbit or hors D'oeuvre.
borage
Bright flowers and hairy leaves distinguish this European herb whose flavor is reminiscent of cucumber. Both the flowers and leaves are used in salads, but the leaves must be chopped finely so their hirsute texture isn't offputting. The leaves are also used to flavor teas and vegetables.
Bordeaux wines
Bordeaux wines take their name from their region of origin in southwest France and are known for their elegant richness and fragrance. Bordeaux is the largest fine-wine district in the world. Some of the best red Bordeaux (also known as clarets ) include Médoc, Margaux Saint-Emilion, Pauillac and Pomerol; fine white Bordeaux include Sauternes, Barsac and Graves. Château is the word for a wine estate in Bordeaux; some of the best are Château Latour, Château Mouton-Rothschild, Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Margaux and Château Haut-Brion.
Bordelaise sauce
A blend of wine, brown stock, marrow, shallots and herbs.
bordelaise, à la
A French term meaning "of or from Bordeaux" and referring to dishes served with bordelaise sauce.
borek; bourek; burek
Though thought of as Turkish, these thin packets of pastry (ranging from phyllo to puff pastry) are found throughout the Middle East. They can contain a variety of fillings, including cheese, spinach or ground meat, and may be baked or fried. Borek are served hot as an hors D'oeuvre or with a salad as a main course.
Borscht
soup containing beets and other vegetables; it is usually made with a meat stock base.
borscht; borsch
Originally from Russia and Poland, borscht is a soup made with fresh beets. It can be prepared using an assortment of vegetables, or with meat and meat stock, or with a combination of both. Borscht can be served hot or cold; it should always be garnished with a dollop of sour cream.
Bosc pear
A large winter pear with a slender neck and a russeted yellow skin. Bosc pears are available from October through April. They have an agreeably sweet-tart flavor and are delicious fresh or cooked. The Bosc holds its shape well when baked or poached. See also pear.
Boston Baked Beans
An American bean dish often made in a crock. These are small white beans (navy or pea beans) cooked with smoked meat and sweetener such as molasses, maple syrup or brown sugar.
Boston brown bread
Rye and wheat flour, cornmeal and molasses flavor this dark, sweet steamed bread. It often contains raisins and is the traditional accompaniment for boston baked beans.
Boston cream pie
Not a pie at all, this dessert consists of two layers of sponge cake with a thick custard filling, topped either by a dusting of confectioners' sugar or chocolate glaze.
Boston lettuce
a variety of butterhead lettuce with soft, pliable pale green leaves that have a buttery texture and flavor and are larger and paler than bibb lettuce leaves.
botrytis cinerea
Also called noble rot, this beneficial mold develops on grapes under certain environmental conditions. The mold causes the grape to shrivel, concentrating and intensifying both sugar and flavor. Most winemakers are exhilarated when noble rot descends on their grapes because it gives them fruit from which to make very elegant, intensely flavored dessert wines. In California these wines are usually referred to as late harvest wines and in France, where noble rot is called pourriture noble, they're known as sauternes. In Germany noble rot is called Edelfaule, and German winemakers are experts at producing a large variety of elegant botrytis-infected wines such as trockenbeerenauslese and some beerenausleses.
bottled in bond
A phrase used on whiskey labels indicating that the contents are 100 proof, at least 4 years old, and that the whiskey was produced by a single distiller and stored in a bonded warehouse under government supervision until taxed and shipped to the retailer.
bouchée
The French word for "mouthful," a bouchée is a small puff pastry shell filled with various savory preparations such as creamed fish.
boudin blanc
1. A delicate sausage, similar to a quenelle in texture, made with chicken, fat, eggs, cream, bread crumbs and seasonings. It is most often gently sautéed and served hot. The term is French for "white pudding." 2. In Louisiana, boudin blanc is a sturdier sausage made with veal, rice and onions. See also sausage.
Bouillabaisse
a highly seasoned fish soup or chowder containing two or more kinds of fish.
Bouillon
clear delicately seasoned soup usually made from lean beef stock.
bouillon cube
A compressed, flavor-concentrated cube of dehydrated beef, chicken or vegetable stock. Bouillon granules are the granular form of the dehydrated concentrate. Both the cubes and granules must be dissolved in a hot liquid before using.
boule
French for "ball," referring culinarily to a round loaf of white bread. Also called miche.
bounce
A popular beverage in Colonial days, bounce is made by combining rum or brandy with fruit, sugar and spices and allowing the mixture to ferment for 1 to 3 weeks.
bounceberry
Another name for cranberry.
Bouquet
aroma, a term used to describe the fragrance of wines and other foods.
Bouquet Garni
a combination of herbs tied in cheese-cloth which are used to flavor stocks and stews and removed before serving.
Bourbon
Named for Bourbon County, Kentucky, this all-American liquor is distilled from fermented grain. Straight bourbon is distilled from a "mash" of at least 51 percent corn; blended bourbon must contain not less than 51 percent straight bourbon. Sour mash bourbon is made by adding a portion of the old mash to help ferment each new batch, in the same way that a portion of sourdough starter is the genesis of each new batch of sourdough bread.
Bourguignon
name applied to dishes containing Burgundy and often braised onions and mushrooms.
bourguignonne, à la
The French term for "as prepared in Burgundy," one of France's most famous gastronomic regions. Meat (usually beef, as in boeuf bourguignonne ) is braised in red wine and usually garnished with small mushrooms and white onions. For information on fondue bourguignonne see listing for fondue.
Bourride
Mediterranean bouillabaisse.
boursault cheese
A soft, snowy rind surrounds this rich triple-cream cheese that has the consistency of thick sour cream. It comes in small paper-wrapped cylinders; avoid any with discolored paper. See also cheese.
Boursin cheese
White and smooth with a buttery texture, this triple-cream cheese is often flavored with herbs, garlic or cracked pepper. It's wonderful with dry white and fruity red wines. See also cheese.
Bowl
a round vessel used for preparing and serving foods, especially those with a liquid or semiliquid texture.
boxty
Said to have originated during the Irish famine, boxty is rather like a thick pancake composed of mashed and shredded potatoes, flour and baking soda or baking powder. Like a scone, the dough is shaped into a circle, cut into quarters and baked on a griddle. Boxty is usually served as a side dish with meat.
Boysenberry
a blackberry, raspberry and loganberry hybrid named for its progenitor, horticulturist Rudolph Boysen; shaped like a large raspberry; has a purple-red color and a rich, sweet, tart flavor. Choose boysenberries that are firm and uniform in size. Discard shriveled or moldy berries. Do not wash until ready to use, and store (preferably in a single layer) in a moistureproof container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.
brûlé
The French word for "burned," as in crème brûlé.
braciola
The Italian name for roulade.
brains
Beef, veal and lamb brains are available in many supermarkets and most specialty meat markets. Purchase brains that are a bright pinkish-white color, plump and firm. They are very perishable and should be used the day of purchase. Brains must be well washed, then blanched in acidulated water. They can then be poached, fried, baked or broiled, and are particularly delicious when served with beurre noir.
Braise; to braise
To cook meat by searing in fat, then simmering in a covered dish in small amount of moisture. Also poêle
Bran
the tough, outer covering of the endosperm of various types of grain kernels; has a high fiber and B vitamin content and is usually removed during milling; used to enrich baked goods and as a cereal and nutrient supplement.
branch water
A term first used in the 1800s referring to pure, clean water from a tiny stream called a "branch." An order for "bourbon and branch" is a nostalgic request for bourbon and water.
Brandade
A pounded combination of salted or smoked fish, olive oil, garlic, milk and cream.
brandy
A liquor distilled from wine (such as armagnac) or other fermented fruit juice (such as the apple-based calvados). Brandies are aged in wood, which contributes flavor and color. The finest of all brandies is cognac. The name "brandy" comes from the Dutch brandewijn, meaning "burned (distilled) wine."
brandy Alexander
A sweet cocktail that is usually served after dinner. It's made with brandy, chocolate liqueur and cream.
brasserie
An informal French café that serves beer, wine and simple, hearty food.
Bratwurst
a fresh German sausage made from veal, seasoned with ginger, nutmeg and coriander or caraway seeds.
braunschweiger
Named after the German town of Braunschweig, this smoked liver sausage enriched with eggs and milk is the most famous of the liverwursts. It's soft enough to be spreadable and is usually served at room temperature. See also sausage.
Brazil nut
Actually the seed of a giant tree that grows in South America's Amazon jungle. These seeds come in clusters of 8 to 24 inside a hard, 4- to 6-inch globular pod that resembles a coconut. The extremely hard shell of each seed, or "nut," is dark brown and triangular in shape. The kernel is white, rich and high in fat. Brazil nuts are rich in selenium, a powerful antioxidant. See also nuts.
Bread
1. A food baked from a dough or batter made with flour or meal, water or other liquids and a leavener. 2. To coat a food with flour, beaten eggs and bread crumbs or cracker crumbs before cooking.
bread crumbs
There are dry and fresh (or soft) bread crumbs, and the two should not be used interchangeably. Fresh crumbs are made by placing bread slices (trimmed of crusts or not) in a food processor or blender and processing until the desired size of crumb is reached. They can be stored, tightly sealed, in the refrigerator for a week or frozen for at least 6 months. Fresh bread crumbs give more texture to breaded dishes. Dry bread crumbs either plain or flavored can be purchased in any supermarket. Homemade dry crumbs are made by placing a single layer of bread slices on a baking sheet and baking at 300°F until completely dry and lightly browned. The slices are cooled before processing in a blender or food processor until very fine. See also panko.
Bread Flour
is an unbleached, specially formulated, high-gluten blend of 99.8 percent hard-wheat flour, a small amount of malted barley flour (to improve yeast activity) and vitamin C or potassium bromate (to increase the gluten's elasticity and the dough's gas retention). It is ideally suited for yeast breads.
bread machines
Computer-driven machines that mix, knead, rise, punch down, bake and sometimes cool bread. The ingredients are measured and added to a single, nonstick canister, which becomes mixing bowl, baking pan and oven. A motor-driven blade in the canister's base mixes and kneads the dough; a heating coil handles the baking. Bread machines come in many models, but there are three basic loaf shapes: vertical rectangle, horizontal rectangle and cylindrical. There are several capacities available, ranging from 1/2-pound to 2-pound loaves. It's important to follow manufacturer's directions (which can vary) for adding and layering ingredients. Failing to do so could prevent the yeast from mixing with the liquid, which would result in a failed loaf of bread.
bread pudding
A simple, delicious baked dessert made with cubes or slices of bread saturated with a mixture of milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla and spices. Chopped fruit or nuts also can be added. Bread and butter pudding is made by buttering the bread slices before adding the liquid mixture. Both may be served hot or cold with cream or a dessert sauce.
bread sauce
A British cookery sauce made with bread crumbs, milk, onions, cream and various seasonings, usually including cloves. This thick sauce is typically served with wild game birds and other poultry.
bread-and-butter pickles
Sweet pickles made from thin slices of unpeeled cucumber; usually pickled with onion and sweet green bell pepper, and flavored with mustard and celery seeds, cloves and turmeric.
breadfruit
Native to the Pacific, breadfruit is large (8 to 10 inches in diameter), has a bumpy green skin and a rather bland-tasting cream-colored center. It is picked and eaten before it ripens and becomes too sweet. Like squash, breadfruit can be baked, grilled, fried or boiled and served as a sweet or savory dish. It's available fresh in some Latin and specialty produce markets and may also be purchased canned.
bream
The name applied to any of several freshwater or saltwater fish such as the American porgy, the Japanese sea bream and the French daurade. In general, bream can be grilled, baked or fried. See also fish; porgy.
brek; brik
From Tunisia, this savory, deep-fried turnover usually contains a spicy meat or fish filling and often an egg. Though the fillings may vary, brek is traditionally served with harissa sauce.
Bresaola
Thin slices of air-dried and aged salted beef filet.
brick cheese
The name of this all-American Wisconsin cheese is said to have come from the fact that bricks were once used to weight the curd and press out the whey; it's also brick shaped. Pale yellow and semisoft, brick cheese has a mild, earthy flavor when young. As it ripens, however, it becomes almost as strong as limburger. See also cheese.
Brie cheese
Acclaimed as one of the world's great cheeses, Brie is characterized by an edible, downy white rind and a cream-colored, buttery-soft interior that should "ooze" when at the peak of ripeness. Though several countries (including the United States) make this popular cheese, Brie from France is considered the best and French Brie de Meaux dates back to the 8th century. Brie can be made from raw or pasteurized, whole or skim milk. Because Brie must be perfectly ripe for the best flavor, it's important to select one that is plump and resilient to the touch; the rind might show some pale brown edges. Once ripe, Brie has a short shelf life and should be used within a few days. See also cheese.
brill
An excellent European saltwater flatfish closely related to the turbot. It has a delicate, light flesh that can be broiled, fried, baked, grilled or poached. See also fish.
Brine
a solution of salt and water used in pickling. Brine draws natural sugars and moisture from foods and forms lactic acids which protects them against spoilage. Usually the strongest brine used in food processing is a 10% solution, made by dissolving 1.5 cups of salt in 1 gallon of liquid, or 6 tablespoons of salt for each quart of liquid.
Brioche
a yeast-raised cake baked to a rich brown usually circular in shape, with a smaller round on top. It is different from other raised doughs in that eggs are added, giving it a characteristic golden tinge, also it is raised in the refrigerator overnight.
Brisket
A cut of beef taken from the breast section under the first five ribs. Brisket is usually sold without the bone and is divided into two sections. The flat cut has minimal fat and is usually more expensive than the more flavorful point cut, which has more fat. Brisket requires long, slow cooking and is best when braised. Corned beef is made from brisket. See brisket.
Broccoflower
a light green cauliflower that is a cross between broccoli and cauliflower, with a milder flavor than either vegetable.
Broccoli
Italian for cabbage sprout and used to describe a member of the cabbage family with a tight cluster (called a curd) of emerald green florets on top of a stout, paler green edible stalk with dark green leaves.
broccoli raab; broccoli rabe
A vegetable related to both the cabbage and turnip family, the leafy green broccoli raab has 6- to 9-inch stalks and scattered clusters of tiny broccolilike buds. It's also called brocoletti di rape, rape and rapini. The greens have a pungent, bitter flavor that is not particularly popular in America where, more often than not, they're used as animal fodder. Italians are particularly fond of broccoli raab, however, and cook it in a variety of ways including frying, steaming and braising. It can also be used in soups or salads. Broccoli raab can be found from fall to spring in markets with specialty produce sections. It should be wrapped in a plastic bag and refrigerated for no more than 5 days.
broche, à la
French for "spit-roasted."
brochette
The French word for "skewer." En brochette refers to food cooked on a skewer.
brodo
The Italian word for "broth."
Broil
to cook the food by placing it a measured distance below direct, dry heat. Most ovens have a broiler section that is used to cook meats, fish and poultry or melt or brown foods.
Brot
German word for "bread."
Broth
a thin soup, or a liquid in which meat, fish, of vegetables have been cooked.
Brown
To produce a brown surface on a food by use of relatively high heat for a brief period of time, giving the food an appetizing color and a richer flavor by caramelizing the proteins and/or sugars on the surface.
brown sauce
Known in France as espagnole sauce, brown sauce is used as a base for dozens of other sauces. It's traditionally made of a rich meat stock, a mirepoix of browned vegetables, a brown roux, herbs and sometimes tomato paste. See also sauce.
Brown Sugar
soft, refined sugar with a coating of molasses; can be dark or light, coarse or fine.
Brownie
a cake-like bar cookie, usually made with chocolate and garnished with nuts.
Bruise
to partially crush an ingredient, such as herbs, to release flavor for seasoning food.
brunch
A combination of breakfast and lunch, usually eaten sometime between 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. Sunday brunch has become quite popular both for home entertaining and in restaurants. Though brunch is thought of as an American tradition, H. L. Mencken tells us that it was popular in England around 1900... long before it reached the United States.
Brunoise
finely diced or shredded vegetables, usually cooked in butter or stock, and used to flavor soups and sauces.
bruschetta
From the Italian bruscare meaning "to roast over coals," this traditional garlic bread is made by rubbing slices of toasted bread with garlic cloves, then drizzling the bread with extra-virgin olive oil. The bread is salted and peppered, then heated and served warm.
brush
To apply a liquid (such as melted butter or a glaze) with a pastry (or basting) brush to the surface of food such as meat or bread.
Brussels sprouts
Said to have been cultivated in 16th-century Belgium, Brussels sprouts are a member of the cabbage family and, indeed, resemble tiny cabbage heads. Many rows of sprouts grow on a single long stalk. They range from 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter; the smaller sprouts are more tender. Brussels sprouts are available from late August through March. Buy small bright green sprouts with compact heads. Store unwashed sprouts in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator up to 3 days; longer than that and sprouts will develop a strong flavor. Brussels sprouts, a cruciferous vegetable, are high in vitamins A and C, and are a fair source of iron.
brut
A term applied to the driest (see dry) champagne. Brut champagnes are drier than those labeled "extra dry."
Bryndza cheese; Brinza
Of Romanian origin, this sheep's-milk cheese is cured in brine. It's creamy, rich and salty, and ranges from soft and spreadable to semidry and crumbly. See also cheese.
buñuelo
A thin, deep-fried Mexican pastry sprinkled with cinnamon-sugar.
bubble and squeak
An English dish of equal parts mashed potatoes and chopped cooked cabbage mixed together and fried until well browned. Originally, the dish included chopped boiled beef. The name is said to come from the sounds the potato-cabbage mixture makes as it cooks (some say it's from the sounds one's stomach makes after eating bubble and squeak).
bucatini
Hollow, spaghettilike pasta strands.
buckwheat
A native of Russia, buckwheat is thought of as a cereal, but is actually an herb of the genus Fagopyrum. The triangular seeds of this plant are used to make buckwheat flour, which has an assertive flavor and is used for pancakes and as an addition to some baked goods. The famous Russian blini are made with buckwheat flour. Buckwheat groats are the hulled, crushed kernels, which are usually cooked in a manner similar to rice. Groats come in coarse, medium and fine grinds. Kasha, which is roasted buckwheat groats, has a toastier, more nutty flavor.
buffalo
The American buffalo, now being raised by approximately 2,000 producers in the United States, is really a bison a shaggy, humped member of the cattle family. Buffalo meat is surprisingly tender and tastes somewhat like lean beef. It has no pronounced gamey flavor. Buffalo can be found on some restaurant menus and is available in some specialty meat markets. The cuts are similar to beef and can be substituted for beef in most recipes. However, because buffalo meat is so lean, it should be cooked slowly at a low heat. Buffalo is higher in iron than beef and lower in fat and cholesterol than most cuts of beef and chicken as well as some fish.
Buffalo chicken wings
Buffalo, New York's, Anchor Bar originated this dish of deep-fried chicken wings served in a spicy hot sauce and accompanied by blue-cheese dressing.
buffalo fish
Similar to carp, this freshwater fish is a member of the sucker family. It has a coarse but sweet, lean flesh that can be baked, poached, sautéed or grilled. Buffalo fish can be purchased whole or in fillets or steaks. It's especially good in its smoked form. See also fish.
buffet
Culinarily, a buffet is a meal where guests serve themselves from a variety of dishes set out on a table or sideboard.
bulghur wheat; bulgar
A nutritious staple in the Middle East, bulghur wheat consists of wheat kernels that have been steamed, dried and crushed. It is often confused with but is not exactly the same as cracked wheat. Bulghur, also called burghul, has a tender, chewy texture and comes in coarse, medium and fine grinds. It makes an excellent wheat pilaf and is delicious in salads (see tabbouleh), and in meat or vegetable dishes, as with kibbeh.
bullshot
A drink composed of two parts beef bouillon and one part vodka, plus dashes of worcestershire sauce, bitters and tabasco sauce.
bully beef
A term used in Great Britain for corned beef, particularly canned versions.
Bundnerfleisch
A Swiss salt-cured, air-dried beef similar to (but considered superior to) Africa's biltong. It's available only in specialty gourmet markets.
Bundt pan
Originally the trademark name of a tube pan with fluted sides, "Bundt pan" is now the general name of any of that style of cake pan. To prevent a cake from sticking to this pan, it's extremely important that all the creases of the fluted sides are well greased before pouring in a batter.
burbot
This freshwater cod has a fairly lean, white flesh with a delicate flavor. It can be poached, baked, broiled or sautéed. See also fish.
burdock
Known in Japan as gobo, burdock is a slender root vegetable with a rusty brown skin and grayish-white flesh. Cultivated primarily in Japan, it grows wild throughout much of Europe and the United States. Burdock has a sweet, earthy flavor and tender-crisp texture. It's important to choose firm, young burdock, preferably no more than 1 inch in diameter; they will be about 18 inches long. Do not wash the earth-covered roots until ready to use. Store, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Scrub before cooking; peeling isn't necessary. Burdock can be thinly sliced or shredded and used in soups as well as with vegetables and meats.
burgoo
Also called Kentucky burgoo, this thick stew is full of meats (usually veal, beef, lamb and poultry) and vegetables (including potatoes, onions, cabbage, carrots, sweet green peppers, corn, okra, lima beans and celery). Burgoo is popular for large gatherings in America's southern states. Originally, the word "burgoo" was used to describe an oatmeal porridge served to English sailors as early as 1750.
Burgundy wines
The Burgundy region in eastern France produces a group of superb red and white wines, though four times as much red is bottled as white. The white wines, made from chardonnay grapes, and the red wines, made from pinot noir or Gamay are considered the world's best examples of these wines. Some of the better known wines of Burgundy include those from beaujolais, Pommard, Beaune, Meursault, chablis, Pouilly-Fuissé, Chambertin, Corton, Romanée Conti and Echézeaux.
burnet
Native to Europe, burnet includes any of several herbs, the most common being salad burnet. Its leaves are used in salads and with vegetables. Like borage, burnet leaves are also used to flavor drinks, such as tea. When crushed, they have a fragrance similar to cucumber. See also herbs.
burnt cream
The British version of the French crème brûlée.
Burrito
a flour tortilla made with a filling.
Butter
a fatty substance produced by agitating or churning cream; contains at least 80% milkfat, not more than 16% water and 2 to 4% milk solids; melts into a liquid at approx. 98*F (38*C) and reaches the smoke point at 260*F (127*C).
Learn how to make your own butter
butter curler
A small (6- to 7-inch-long) utensil with a serrated hook at one end. The hook is drawn down the length of a stick of butter to make butter curls. The curls are then dropped into ice water to set their shape.
butter mold
These decorative molds are used to form butter into fancy shapes. They come in ceramic, metal, wood and plastic; their sizes range from small, individual portions to large 8-ounce or more family-style molds. The molds are filled with softened butter and leveled off. After chilling, the solidified butter is removed from the mold and refrigerated until ready to serve.
butter muslin
British term for cheesecloth.
butter substitutes
Found in powdered and granular forms, butter substitutes are made by a process that removes the fat and water from butter extract (a blend of modified butter oil and spray-dried butter). They contain no fat or cholesterol. What these "all natural" (according to the label) products do contain are such ingredients as maltodextrin (a carbohydrate derived from corn), corn syrup solids, salt, natural flavorings, buttermilk and cornstarch. As expected from the ingredients used, butter substitutes have an embarrassingly counterfeit flavor. They also have from about 8 to 12 calories per teaspoon, as opposed to butter or margarine's 33 calories per teaspoon. Butter substitutes may either be reconstituted by blending with a liquid, or sprinkled directly on to food. Because they're fat-free, they cannot be used for baking, frying or greasing pans. See also butter.
buttercream
A light, creamy frosting made with softened butter, confectioners' sugar, egg yolks and milk or light cream. This uncooked frosting is beaten until light and creamy. It can be flavored in many ways and is used both as a filling and frosting for a variety of cakes and pastries.
buttercup squash
A variety of turban squash that ranges from 4 to 8 inches in diameter and 2 to 3 inches high. It has a light blue-gray turban with a dark green shell flecked with gray. The flesh is orange and the flavor reminiscent of sweet potato. It can be baked, steamed or simmered. See also squash.
butterfish
Found off the Atlantic and Gulf coasts, the small (average 8 ounces), high-fat butterfish has a tender texture and a rich, sweet flavor. It is usually sold whole and is sometimes smoked. Butterfish can be broiled, baked, grilled or sautéed. Depending on the region, they're also known as dollarfish, Pacific pompano and pomfret. See also fish; sablefish.
Butterfly
to cut food almost in half so that when flattened the two halves resemble butterfly wings.
butterhead lettuce
One of two varieties of head lettuce (the other being crisphead). Butterhead lettuces have small, round, loosely formed heads with soft, buttery-textured leaves ranging from pale green on the outer leaves to pale yellow-green on the inner leaves. The flavor is sweet and succulent. Because the leaves are quite tender, they require gentle washing and handling. Boston and Bibb (also called limestone) lettuce are the two most well known of the butterhead family. The smaller Bibb is highly prized by gourmets. Both Boston and Bibb lettuce are sometimes referred to simply as "butterhead" or "butter" lettuce. See also lettuce.
Buttermilk
1. Fresh, pasteurized skim or lowfat cow's milk cultured (soured) with Streptococcus lactis bacteria; also known as cultured buttermilk. 2. Traditionally, the liquid remaining after the cream was churned into butter.
buttermilk pie
A favorite in the American South, this pie has a filling of buttermilk, butter, eggs, flour and sugar, plus flavorings like lemon juice, vanilla and nutmeg. It's similar to but tangier than chess pie.
butternut
This native American nut grows in New England and is also known as the white walnut. It has a rich, oily meat which is generally used in candies and baked goods. Because of the high oil content, butternuts become rancid quickly. See also nuts; walnut.
Butterscotch
1. A flavor derived from brown sugar and butter, used for cookies, candies, sauces and the like. 2. A hard candy with the flavor of butterscotch.
butyric acid
Found chiefly in butter, this natural acid not only produces butter's distinctive flavor but also causes the rancid smell in spoiled butter. Butyric acid, also called butanoic acid, is also found in some fruits and is produced synthetically to be used as a flavoring agent in various food products.
Byrrh
A French apéritif that is a blend of red wine and quinine water.
Cèpe
a delicious mushroom.
Côtes du Rhône
The generic appellation given to red, white and rosé wines grown in an area covering 83,000 acres in France's Rhône Valley. The majority of rhône wines are red. Some of these are a deep ruby-black color, with full-bodied, concentrated flavors that benefit from at least 5 years' aging, while others are lighter and fruitier. The white Rhônes are fruity and dry and can be quite heady; the rosés can also be rather dry. Rhône wines are not made from one grape variety, but from a blend of from 2 to 13. The principal red grape is Grenache, but Carignan, Counoise, Mourvedre, Terret Noir and Syrah are also used. The white grapes used are Bourboulenc, Clairette, Marsanne, Muscardine, Picardan, Roussanne and Piquepoul (or Picpoule).
cabbage
The word cabbage is a derivation of the French word caboche, a colloquial term for "head." The cabbage family of which Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cauliflower and kale are all members is wide and varied. Cabbage itself comes in many forms the shapes can be flat, conical or round, the heads compact or loose, and the leaves curly or plain. In the United States, the most widely used cabbage comes in compact heads of waxy, tightly wrapped leaves that range in color from almost white to green to red. savoy cabbage and chinese cabbage are considered culinarily superior but are less readily available. Choose a cabbage with fresh, crisp-looking leaves that are firmly packed; the head should be heavy for its size. Cabbage may be refrigerated, tightly wrapped, for about a week. It can be cooked in a variety of ways or eaten raw, as in slaw. Cabbage, a cruciferous vegetable, contains a good amount of vitamin C and some vitamin A.
Cabbage, green
the common market cabbage (Brassica olercaea) with a large, firm spherical head of tightly packed pale green waxy leaves; flat and conical heads are also available; also known as the common cabbage. Other varieties include white and red.
Cabernet Franc
Although similar in structure and flavor to cabernet sauvignon, this red wine grape is not quite as full-bodied, and has fewer tannins and less acid. It is, however, more aromatic and herbaceous. Unlike Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc grows in cooler climates and ripens early. Therefore, it can be particularly important if weather conditions create a less-than-perfect Cabernet Sauvignon crop. Under such circumstances, the addition of Cabernet Franc might salvage the vintage.
Cabernet Sauvignon
The most successful and popular of the top-quality red-wine grapes. Cabernet Sauvignon is the basis for most of California's superb red wines and the primary grape of most of the top vineyards in bordeaux's Médoc and Graves districts. In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon is most often blended with one or more of the following grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot or Malbec. In California, wines are more often made with 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, although some blending is now taking place. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes produce full-bodied, fruity wines that are rich, complex and intensely flavorful. There are a multitude of well-made Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines made throughout the world. Among the most notable are those from France's Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Latour, Château Mouton-Rothschild and Château Margaux, and California's Beaulieu Vineyards, Caymus Vineyards, Heitz Wine Cellars and Robert Mondavi Winery.
cabinet pudding
This classic English dessert is made with layers of bread, cake or ladyfingers (which may be soaked with liqueur), dried fruit and custard. The pudding is baked, unmolded and usually served with crème anglaise. Another version of cabinet pudding uses gelatin and whipped cream; rather than being baked, it's simply chilled until set.
Cabrales
A noted Spanish blue cheese.
Cacao
Native South American tree whose seeds are fermented and processed to make cocoa and chocolate.
Cacciatore
Italian for hunter and used to describe any stew-like dish flavored with onions, herbs, mushrooms, tomatoes and sometimes wine (ex. Chicken cacciatore).
Cachaca
Brazilian liquor made from distilled sugar cane juice.
caciocavallo cheese
From southern Italy, caciocavallo (meaning "cheese on horseback") is said to date back to the 14th century, and believed by some to have originally been made from mare's milk. Today's caciocavallo comes from cow's milk and has a mild, slightly salty flavor and firm, smooth texture when young (about 2 months). As it ages, the flavor becomes more pungent and the texture more granular, making it ideal for grating. Caciocavallo is one of the pasta filata types of cheeses (like provolone and mozzarella), which means it has been stretched and shaped by hand. It may be purchased plain or smoked and comes in string-tied gourd or spindle shapes. See also cheese.
Caerphilly cheese
This mild yet tangy cow's-milk cheese has a moist, semifirm texture and is generally sold in cylinders or blocks. It's best eaten fresh (the English prefer it only a few weeks old) and is delicious with dark breads and ale. Though now produced in England, Caerphilly gets its name from the village in Wales where it was first made; it was the traditional lunch of Welsh miners. See also cheese.
Caesar salad
A salad consisting of greens (classically, romaine lettuce) tossed with a garlic vinaigrette dressing (made with worcestershire sauce and lemon juice), grated Parmesan cheese, croutons, a coddled egg and sometimes anchovies. It is said to have been created in 1924 by Italian chef Caesar Cardini, who owned a restaurant in Tijuana, Mexico.
café au lait
French for "coffee with milk." It usually consists of equal portions of scalded milk and coffee.
café brûlot
A traditional New Orleans flaming brew consisting of coffee blended with spices, orange and lemon peel and brandy. Café brûlot is generally made in a flameproof bowl and ladled into cups. In French, brûlot means "burnt brandy."
café filtre
French term meaning "filtered coffee" and referring to coffee made by pouring very hot water through a filter holding ground coffee. It's traditionally served black, in demitasse cups.
café latte
espresso combined with a liberal amount of foamy steamed milk, usually served in a tall glass mug.
café macchiato
An espresso with a dollop of steamed-milk foam, served in an espresso cup.
café mocha
espresso combined with chocolate syrup and a liberal amount of foamy steamed milk. A café mocha is usually served in a tall glass mug.
café; cafe
1. The French word for "coffee." 2. A small, unpretentious restaurant.
caffeine
An organic compound found in foods such as chocolate, coffee, cola nuts and tea. Scientific studies have shown that caffeine stimulates the nervous system, kidneys and heart, causes the release of insulin in the body and dilates the blood vessels.
cajeta
A thick, dark syrup or paste made from caramelized sugar and milk traditionally goat's milk, although cow's milk is often used. Cajeta can be found in several flavors (primarily caramel and fruit) in Latin markets. It's used in Mexico and in some South American countries primarily as a dessert by itself or as a topping for ice cream or fruit.
Cajun cooking
Today's Cajuns are the descendants of 1,600 French Acadians whom the British forced from their Nova Scotian homeland in 1785. The local Indians transmuted the word Acadians to Cagians and, eventually, to Cajuns. Many confuse Cajun cooking with creole cooking but though there are many points of similarity, there are also distinct differences. Cajun cooking, a combination of French and Southern cuisines, is robust, country-style cookery that uses a dark roux and plenty of animal fat. Creole cooking places its emphasis on butter and cream. Some maintain that Creole cooking uses more tomatoes and the Cajuns more spices. Both cuisines make generous use of filé powder and the culinary "holy trinity" of chopped green peppers, onions and celery. Two of the more traditional Cajun dishes include jambalaya and coush-coush (a thick cornmeal breakfast dish).
Cajun seasoning; Cajun spice seasoning
There are many Cajun seasoning blends on the market today, all with their own distinct characteristics. Most are boldly flavored and sassy and representative of cajun cooking. In general, a Cajun seasoning blend might include garlic, onion, chiles, black pepper, mustard and celery. However, you can count on the fact that each Cajun seasoning blend on the market will be a little different from another.
Cake
in the United States, a broad range of pastries, including layer cakes, coffee cakes and gateaux; it can refer to almost anything that is baked, tender, sweet and sometimes frosted.
cake comb
A flat, small (usually 5- by 5- by 4-inch), triangle-shape tool, generally made of stainless steel. Each of the three edges has serrated teeth of a different size. This tool is used to make decorative designs and swirls in the frosting on a cake.
Cake Flour
a low-protein wheat flour used for making cakes, pastry doughs and other tender baked goods.
cala
The word "cala" comes from an African word for "rice," and refers to a deep-fried pastry made with rice, yeast, sugar and spices. Calas resemble small, round doughnuts without a hole and are usually sprinkled with confectioners' sugar.
calabaza
A pumpkinlike squash popular throughout the Caribbean as well as Central and South America. The calabaza, which is also called West Indian pumpkin, is round in shape and can range in size from as large as a watermelon to as small as a cantaloupe. Its skin can range in color from green to pale tan to light red-orange; its flesh is a brilliant orange. Calabaza has a sweet flavor akin to that of butternut squash; its texture is firm and succulent. It can be found in chunks throughout the year in Latin markets. Choose cut pieces with fresh, moist, tightly grained flesh with no signs of soft or wet spots. If you can find whole calabaza, look for those that are unblemished and heavy for their size; the stem should still be attached. Whole calabaza can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to 6 weeks. Cut calabaza should be wrapped tightly and refrigerated for no more than a week. Calabaza may be used in any way suitable for winter squashes like acorn squash and butternut.
calcium
A mineral essential in building and maintaining bones and teeth, as well as in providing efficient muscle contraction and blood clotting. Calcium is found in dairy products, leafy green vegetables (such as spinach, turnip greens and broccoli), sardines and canned salmon with bones and rhubarb.
caldo
1. Italian for "warm" or "hot." 2. The Spanish and Portuguese word meaning "broth" or "soup."
caldo verde
Caldo verde ("green soup") is a Portuguese favorite that combines shredded kale, sliced potatoes, chouriço, linguiça sausage and olive oil for a deliciously satisfying soup.
calf's foot jelly; ptchah
An aspic made by boiling calves' feet until the natural gelatin is extracted. The liquid is strained, then combined with wine, lemon juice and spices and refrigerated until set. If sugar is added, it can be eaten as a dessert. Calf's-foot jelly was once thought to be a restorative for invalids.
callaloo
1. The large, edible green leaves of the taro root, popular in the Caribbean islands cooked as one would prepare turnip or collard greens. 2. A Caribbean soup made with callaloo greens, coconut milk, okra, yams and chiles.
Calmondin
A citrus tree cultivated for its naturally high concentration of vitamin C. It also is used as a base for artificial flavorings.
calorie
A unit measuring the energy value of foods, calibrated by the quantity of heat required to raise the temperature of 1 gram of water by one degree celsius at a pressure of one atmosphere. The four sources from which calories are obtained are alcohol, carbohydrates, fats and proteins, however all these sources are not equal. For example, fat packs a hefty 9 calories per gram, over twice as much as the 4 calories per gram carried by both carbohydrates and proteins. Alcohol has 7 calories per gram, almost as many as fat. Clearly, fats and alcohol have a much higher caloric density than carbohydrates and proteins, so it's obvious that a 6-ounce serving of steak will be much more expensive calorically than 6 ounces of cauliflower.
Calvados
A dry apple brandy made in Calvados, in the Normandy region of northern France. It's often used for cooking, particularly in chicken and veal dishes.
calzone
Originating in Naples, calzone is a stuffed pizza that resembles a large turnover. It is usually made as an individual serving. The fillings can be various meats, vegetables or cheese; mozzarella is the cheese used most frequently. Calzones can be deep-fried or brushed with olive oil and baked.
cambric tea
An American term used to describe a hot drink of milk, water, sugar and, if desired, a dash of tea. It was a favorite of children and the elderly in the late 19th and early 20th century. The name is taken from a fabric called cambric, which is white and thin... just like the "tea."
Camembert cheese
Napoleon is said to have christened this cheese with the appellation "Camembert," naming it after the Norman village where a farmer's wife first served it to him. Now world famous, this cow's-milk cheese has a white, downy rind and a smooth, creamy interior. When perfectly ripe, the cheese should ooze thickly. When overripe, it becomes runny, bitter and rank. Choose Camembert that is plump and soft to the touch. Avoid those with hardened edges, which may forecast overripeness. See also cheese.
camomile; chamomile
Resembling a daisy, this aromatic flower is dried and used to flavor camomile tea, reputed to be a soothing drink. The flowers are also used as a fragrance in shampoos and other hair preparations. See also tea.
Campari
A popular bitter Italian apéritif, which is often mixed with soda. It's also consumed without a mixer and used in some cocktails. Regular Campari has an astringent, bittersweet flavor; sweet Campari is also available.
can, to; canning
A method of preserving food by hermetically sealing it in glass containers. The use of special canning jars and lids is essential for successful canning. The canning process involves quickly heating jars of food to high temperatures, thereby retaining maximum color, flavor and nutrients while destroying the microorganisms that cause spoilage. During processing, the food reaches temperatures of 212°F (with the boiling-water-bath method) to 240°F (using a pressure canner). Any air in the container is forced out between the jar and lid. A vacuum is created as the food cools and contracts, sucking the lid tightly to the jar. This airtight seal is vital to prevent invasion by microorganisms. Refer to a general cookbook for specific instructions on canning foods.
Canadian whisky
Dropping the "e " from whiskey is traditionally British and is used in the spelling of Canadian whisky. Made only in Canada, this distilled blend of rye, corn, wheat and barley is smoother and lighter than its cousins, rye and bourbon.
canapé
Small, decorative pieces of bread (toasted or untoasted) that are topped with a savory garnish such as anchovy, cheese or some type of spread. Crackers or pastry may also be used as a base. Canapé may be simple or elaborate, hot or cold. They're usually served as an appetizer with cocktails. The word "anapé" is French for "couch." See also hors D'oeuvre.
Canapés
Garnished bite-sized rounds of bread or vegetables (cucumber, zucchini) served with cocktails and at buffets.
canard
The French word for "duck."
candied apple; candy apple
An apple that's coated with a cinnamon-flavored red sugar syrup. This candy coating can either be crackly-hard or soft and gooey. A candied-apple clone is the caramel apple, which has a thick, soft caramel-flavored coating. Both versions are served on sticks for portable eating.
candied fruit; candied flowers
Fruit or flowers that have been boiled or dipped in sugar syrup, then sometimes into granulated sugar after being dried. Candied fruits (also called glacé fruits) are generally used in cakes, breads and other sweets. Candied flowers are generally reserved for decorating desserts; candied fruits can also be used in this manner. The most common fruits that are candied are cherries, pineapple and citrus rinds. angelica and ginger are also candied favorites. Among the crystallized flowers, violets and miniature rosebuds and rose petals are the most common. Candied fruit and flowers can be found at gourmet markets and specialty shops. They should be stored airtight in a cool, dry place.
candlenut
Used in Southeast Asian cookery, the tropical candlenut is hard and high in fat. The name comes from the fact that these nuts are also used in Indonesia and Malaysia to make candles. Whole or chopped roasted candlenuts are available in Indian and Asian markets. See also nuts.
candy
n. Any of a number of various confections soft and hard composed mainly of sugar with the addition of flavoring ingredients and fillings such as chocolate, nuts, peanut butter, nougat, fruits and so on. Sugar syrup is the foundation for most candies, the concentration of the mixture depending upon its temperature, which can either be checked by a candy thermometer or by a series of cold-water tests. The tests and appropriate thermometer readings are as follows: thread stage the point at which a spoon coated with boiling syrup forms a 2-inch thread when immersed in cold water (230° to 234°F); soft-ball stage a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water forms a soft ball that flattens of its own accord when removed (234° to 240°F); firm-ball stage a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water forms a firm but pliable ball (244° to 248°F); hard-ball stage a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water forms a rigid ball that is somewhat pliable (250° to 265°F); soft-crack stage a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water separates into hard though pliable threads (270° to 290°F); hard-crack stage a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water separates into hard, brittle threads (300° to 310°F). Candy may come in tiny bits, small one- or two-bite pieces, or in the form of a candy "bar," containing several bites. Candy bars usually have a chocolate coating. So-called "nutritious" candy bars usually contain honey instead of sugar, and often substitute carob for chocolate. candy v. To sugar-coat various fruits, flowers and plants such as cherries, pineapple, citrus rinds, angelica, ginger, chestnuts, violets, miniature rose petals and mint leaves. Candying food not only preserves it, but also retains its color, shape and flavor. The candying process usually includes dipping or cooking the food in several boiling sugar syrups of increasing degrees of density. After the candied fruit air-dries, it is sometimes dipped in granulated sugar.
Candy Thermometer
a kitchen tool used to determine heat levels in the cooking of candy, jams, and preserves.
Cane Syrup
a thick, sweet syrup; the result of an intermediate step in the sugarcane refining process when the syrup is reduced.
cannaroni
Wide pasta tubes; also called zitoni.
Cannellini
large, elongated kidney-shaped beans grown in Italy; have a creamy white color and are used in soups and salads; also known as white kidney beans.
cannellini bean
Large, white Italian kidney beans, available both in dry and canned forms. Cannellini beans are particularly popular in salads and soups. See also beans.
Cannelloni
Large, stuffed pasta tubes baked in sauce.
cannoli
An Italian dessert consisting of tubular or horn-shaped pastry shells that have been deep-fried, then filled with a sweetened filling of whipped ricotta (and often whipped cream) mixed with bits of chocolate, candied citron and sometimes nuts.
canola oil
The market name for rapeseed oil which, as might be assumed from the name, is expressed from rape seeds. For obvious reasons, the name was changed to canola by the Canadian seed-oil industry. Canola is, in fact, Canada's most widely used oil. It's commonly referred to there as lear oil, for "low erucic acid rapeseed" oil. The popularity of canola oil is rising fast in the United States, probably because it's been discovered to be lower in saturated fat (about 6 percent) than any other oil. This compares to the saturated fat content of peanut oil (about 18 percent) and palm oil (at an incredibly high 79 percent). Another canola oil selling point is that it contains more cholesterol-balancing monounsaturated fat than any oil except olive oil. It also has the distinction of containing Omega-3 fatty acids, the wonder polyunsaturated fat reputed to not only lower both cholesterol and triglycerides, but to contribute to brain growth and development as well. The bland-tasting canola oil is suitable both for cooking and for salad dressings. See also fats and oils.
Cantal
A semifirm cow's milk cheese from the department of Cantal in south-central France. Cantal has a smooth texture and a mellow, nutty flavor similiar to that of cheddar cheese. See also cheese.
cantaloupe
Named for a castle in Italy, the true cantaloupe is a European melon that is not exported. American "cantaloupes" are actually muskmelons. When perfectly ripe, these cantaloupes have a raised netting on a smooth grayish-beige skin. The pale orange flesh is extremely juicy and sweet. Choose cantaloupes that are heavy for their size, have a sweet, fruity fragrance, a thick, well-raised netting and yield slightly to pressure at the blossom end. Avoid melons with soft spots or an overly strong odor. Store unripe cantaloupes at room temperature, ripe melons in the refrigerator. Cantaloupes easily absorb other food odors so if refrigerating for more than a day or two, wrap the melon in plastic wrap. Just before serving, cut melon in half and remove the seeds. Cantaloupe is an excellent source of vitamins A and C.
Cantaloupe, American
a muskmelon with a raised netting over a smooth grayish-beige skin, pale orange flesh, large seed cavity with many seeds and a sweet, refreshing, distinctive flavor; also known as a netted melon or nutmeg melon.
cape gooseberry
Though this intriguing berry grows wild in many locations throughout the continental United States, it's generally cultivated in tropical zones such as Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, India and China. At first glance the cape gooseberry (also called golden berry, ground cherry, physalis and poha ), with its inflated, papery skin (calyx), looks somewhat like a Chinese lantern. The bittersweet, juicy berries that hide inside the calyx are opaque and golden in color. To use the berries, peel back the parchmentlike husk and rinse. Because of their piquant aftertaste, cape gooseberries go nicely with meats and other savory foods. They're wonderful in pies, jams and all by themselves. Imported cape gooseberries are available from March to July. Look for those with a bright golden color; green berries are not ripe. Cape gooseberries are high in vitamin C.
capelli d'angelo
Italian for "angel hair" (which this pasta is also called), this term describes a long, delicate, extremely thin noodle. Because they are so fine, capelli d'angelo must be served either in a very light sauce or in a simple broth.
Capellini
Italian for fine hair; used to describe extremely fine spaghetti.
caper
The flower bud of a bush native to the Mediterranean and parts of Asia. The small buds are picked, sun-dried and then pickled in a vinegar brine. Capers range in size from the petite nonpareil variety from southern France (considered the finest), to those from Italy, which can be as large as the tip of your little finger. There are also the Spanish-imported stemmed caperberries that are about the size of a cocktail olive. Capers are generally packed in brine but can also be found salted and sold in bulk. Capers should be rinsed before using to remove excess salt. The pungent flavor of capers lends piquancy to many sauces and condiments; they're also used as a garnish for meat and vegetable dishes.
Capers
the unopened flower buds of a shrub (Capparis spinosa) native to the Mediterranean region; after curing in salted white vinegar, the buds develop a sharp salty-sour flavor and are used as a flavoring and condiment.
Capon
a rooster castrated before it is 8 weeks old, fattened and slaughtered before it is 10 months old; has a market weight of 4 to 10 pounds (1.8 to 4.5 kg), soft, smooth skin, a high proportion of light to dark meat, a relatively high fat content and juicy, tender, well-flavored flesh.
caponata
A Sicilian dish that is generally served as a salad, side dish or relish. Caponata is composed of eggplant, onions, tomatoes, anchovies, olives, pine nuts, capers and vinegar, all cooked together in olive oil. It's most often served at room temperature.
cappelletti
Small, stuffed squares of pasta, similar to ravioli. The stuffing is usually ground meat, but can also be made from cheese or vegetables. The name is taken from the plural of the Italian word cappelletto, which means "little hat."
Cappuccino
an Italian beverage made from equal parts espresso, steamed milk and foamed milk, sometimes dusted with sweetened cocoa powder or cinnamon; usually served in a large cup.
capsaicin
A potent compound that gives some chiles their fiery nature. Most of the capsaicin (up to 80 percent) is found in the seeds and membranes of a chile. Since neither cooking nor freezing diminishes capsaicin's intensity, removing a chile's seeds and veins is the only way to reduce its heat. The caustic oils found in chiles cause an intense burning sensation, which can severely irritate skin and eyes. Capsaicin is known for its decongestant qualities. It also causes the brain to produce endorphins, which promote a sense of well-being.
capsicum
Any of hundreds of varieties of plant-bearing fruits called peppers, all of which belong to the nightshade family. Capsicums fall into two categories chiles and sweet peppers.
carafe
A decorative beverage container, usually narrow-necked and fitted with a stopper. Carafes are generally made of glass and used for cold beverages.
carambola
When cut crosswise, this showy fruit has a striking star shape, which is why it's also called star fruit. It favors tropical climates and thrives in the Caribbean countries, Hawaii, Central and South America and parts of Asia. The carambola ranges from 3 to 5 inches long and is easy to identify by the five definitive ribs that traverse its length. Its thin skin is a glossy golden-yellow, its matching flesh beautifully translucent and dotted occasionally with a dark seed. When ripe, the carambola is exceedingly juicy and fragrant. Its flavor, depending on the variety, can range from exotically sweet to refreshingly tart. In general, the broader set the ribs, the sweeter the fruit. Carambolas are available from summer's end to midwinter. Choose firm fruit that has a bright, even color. Those with greening on the ribs may be ripened at room temperature. Use ripe carambolas within a few days or store, wrapped tightly in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator for up to a week. Carambolas, which do not require peeling, are delicious eaten out of hand, or used in salads, desserts or as a garnish.
Caramel
1. A substance produced by cooking sugar until it becomes a thick, dark liquid; its color ranges from golden to dark brown; used for coloring and flavoring desserts, candies; sweet and savory sauces and other foods. 2. A firm, chewy candy made with sugar, butter, corn syrup and milk or cream.
Caramelize
to cook white sugar in a skillet over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the sugar forms a golden-brown syrup.
caraway seed
These aromatic seeds come from an herb in the parsley family. They have a nutty, delicate anise flavor and are widely used in German, Austrian and Hungarian cuisine. Caraway seeds flavor many foods including cheese, breads, cakes, stews, meats, vegetables and the liqueur Kümmel. They should be stored airtight in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. See also spices; herb and spice chart.
carbohydrate
A broad category of sugars, starches, fibers and starchy vegetables that the body eventually converts to glucose, the body's primary source of energy. There are two classes of carbohydrates simple and complex. Simple carbohydrates are the sugars, which include glucose and fructose from fruits and vegetables, sucrose from beet or cane sugar and lactose from milk. Simple carbohydrates are absorbed by the body very quickly. Complex carbohydrates include starches and fiber and are most commonly found in whole grains and legumes. Complex carbohydrates, which are generally large chains of glucose molecules, take longer to digest and provide more nutrients than simple carbohydrates.
Carbohydrates
the food group containing sugars, starches, and cellulose.
carbonara, alla
The Italian term describing a pasta dish of spaghetti (or other noodles) with a sauce composed of cream, eggs, Parmesan cheese and bits of cured meat. The sauce is heated only until it begins to thicken (2 to 3 minutes). It's important that the pasta be very hot so that when the sauce is poured over it, the eggs will briefly continue to cook. Fresh green peas are sometimes added for flavor and color.
carbonnade
A French term for meat cooked over hot coals or directly over flames.
carbonnade à la flamande
Beer, cured meat, onions and brown sugar flavor this thick Belgian beef stew from Flanders. Also referred to as carbonnade of beef.
Carbonnades
a French beef stew cooked with beer.
cardamom
A member of the ginger family, this aromatic spice is native to India and grows in many other tropical areas including Asia, South America and the Pacific Islands. Cardamom seeds are encapsulated in small pods about the size of a cranberry. Each pod contains 17 to 20 tiny seeds. Cardamom has a pungent aroma and a warm, spicy-sweet flavor. It's widely used in Scandinavian and East Indian cooking. Cardamom can be purchased either in the pod or ground. The latter, though more convenient, is not as full-flavored because cardamom seeds begin to lose their essential oils as soon as they're ground. The seeds may be removed from the pods and ground, or the entire pod may be ground. A mortar and pestle make quick work of the grinding. If using cardamom to flavor dishes such as stews and curries, lightly crush the shell of the pod and add the pod and seeds to the mixture. The shell will disintegrate while the dish cooks. Be frugal when using cardamom a little goes a long way. See also spices; herb and spice chart.
cardoon
Tasting like a cross between artichoke, celery and salsify, this delicious vegetable is very popular in France, Italy and Spain. The cardoon resembles a giant bunch of wide, flat celery. Cardoons can be found from midwinter to early spring. Look for stalks that are firm and have a silvery gray-green color. Refrigerate in a plastic bag up to 2 weeks. To prepare, remove tough outer ribs. Cut the inner ribs into the size indicated in the recipe and soak in acidulated water to prevent browning. Cardoons can be boiled, braised or baked. Precooking about 30 minutes in boiling water is suggested in many recipes. Though high in sodium, cardoons are a good source of potassium, calcium and iron.
carne
Spanish for "meat."
carnitas
Mexican for "little meats," this dish is simply small bits or shreds of well browned veal. It's made from an inexpensive cut of veal that's simmered in a small amount of water until tender, then finished by cooking the pieces in fat until nicely browned all over. Carnitas are usually eaten with salsa and are sometimes used as the filling in tacos and burritos.
carob
The long, leathery pods from the tropical carob tree contain a sweet, edible pulp (which can be eaten fresh) and a few hard, inedible seeds. After drying, the pulp is roasted and ground into a powder. It is then used to flavor baked goods and candies. Both fresh and dried carob pods, as well as carob powder, may be found in health-food and specialty food stores. Because carob is sweet and tastes vaguely of chocolate, it's often used as a chocolate substitute. Carob is also known as Saint John's bread and locust bean.
Carolina rice
This is the long-grain rice that is most popular in the United States. It was originally planted in North Carolina in the late 17th century from East African rice brought back by a sea captain. Carolina rice is now cultivated mainly in California, Texas, Louisiana and Arkansas. See also rice.
carotene
A fat-soluble pigment, ranging in color from yellow to orange, found in many fruits and vegetables (carrots, for one). It converts to vitamin A in the liver and is essential for normal human growth and eyesight.
carp
The principal ingredient in the Jewish dish gefilte fish, carp is a freshwater fish native to Asia but found throughout the world. It ranges in size from 2 to 7 pounds and favors muddy waters, which often give a mossy flavor to the lean, white flesh. This musky nuance is least evident from November to April. Carp is best baked, fried or poached. See also fish.
Carpaccio
Wafer-thin slices of raw beef served cold; named after the Renaissance Venetian painter.
Carrageen / Carraghen Moss
an edible seaweed; Irish moss.
carrageen; carragheen
Also called Irish moss, carrageen is a stubby, purplish seaweed found along the west coast of Ireland, as well as America's Atlantic coast. When dried, carrageen is used in cosmetics and medicines and is greatly valued as a thickening agent for foods such as puddings, ice cream and soups.
Carrot
a member of the parsley family (Daucus carota); has lacy green foliage, an edible orange taproot with a milk sweet flavor and crisp texture, a tapering shape and comes in a variety of sizes.
casaba melon
Though it was first cultivated in Persia thousands of years ago, the casaba melon wasn't introduced to the United States until the late 19th century when it was imported from Kasaba, Turkey. A member of the muskmelon family, this large, round melon has a thick yellow rind with deep, rough furrows. The creamy-colored flesh is extremely juicy and has a distinctive yet mild cucumberlike flavor. Casabas are now grown in California and are most readily available from September through November. Choose a melon with an even-colored yellow rind with a slightly wrinkled appearance; it should give slightly when gently pressed at the blossom end. Avoid casabas with soft spots or mold. Store at room temperature until completely ripe, then refrigerate. See also melon.
cascabel chile
A dried, plum-shaped, dark blood-red colored chile that ranges in size from about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Cascabel means "little round bell" or "rattle" in Spanish, a name alluding to the rattling sound this chile makes when shaken. This chile, with its rich nutty flavor and medium heat, is excellent in sauces, soups and other cooked dishes. The cascabel chile is also known as chile bola.
casein
The prinicipal protein in milk, which coagulates with the addition of rennin and is the foundation for cheese. Casein is also used in the production of nonfood items such as adhesives, paints and plastics.
cashew apple
Native to Brazil, India and the West Indies, this pear-shaped apple has a yellow-orange skin that is often blushed with touches of red. The flesh is tart and astringent and though not favored for out-of-hand eating, is used to make wine, liqueur and vinegar. The cashew apple's biggest gift to the world is the cashew nut, which grows on the outside of the apple at its base. Cashew apples are not imported to the United States.
cashew nut
A kidney-shaped nut that grows out from the bottom of the cashew apple. The shell is highly toxic so great care is taken in shelling and cleaning the nut. Cashew nuts have a sweet, buttery flavor and contain about 48 percent fat. Because of their high fat content, they should be stored, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator to retard rancidity. As with most nuts, roasting cashews brings out their nutty flavor. See also nuts.
casing
A thin, tubular intestinal membrane that has been cleaned and stuffed with processed meat, such as for salami and other sausages. The membrane may come from the intestines of sheep, hogs or cattle. Casings can be purchased thoroughly cleaned and packed in salt from specialty butchers. Today, most commercial sausages have casings of formed collagen.
cassareep
Used primarily in West Indian cookery, cassareep is a bittersweet condiment made by cooking the juice of bitter cassava with brown sugar and spices until it reduces to a syrup. Bottled cassareep can be found in Caribbean markets.
cassata
A traditional Italian dessert served at celebrations such as weddings. The word cassata means "in a case (or chest)." One version of this dessert has a rich filling of ricotta, candied fruit and grated chocolate encased by thin slices of liqueur-sprinkled sponge cake. The cake and cheese mixture may also be layered. The dessert is chilled, then decorated with whipped cream, ricotta cheese or chocolate frosting. Another version, cassata gelata, is made by lining a mold with layers of ice cream of contrasting colors, then filling the center with a ricotta-whipped cream-candied fruit mixture. The mold is frozen completely before serving.
cassava
Though native to South America, the majority of cassava now comes from Africa, where it's an important staple. Also called manioc and yuca, the cassava is a root that ranges from 6 to 12 inches in length and from 2 to 3 inches in diameter. It has a tough brown skin which, when peeled, reveals a crisp, white flesh. There are many varieties of cassava but only two main categories, sweet and bitter. The bitter cassava is poisonous unless cooked. Cassava is available year-round in Caribbean and Latin American markets. It should be stored in the refrigerator for no more than 4 days. Grated, sun-dried cassava is called cassava meal. Cassava is also used to make cassareep and tapioca.
Casserole
an ovenproof baking dish, usually with a cover; also the food cooked inside it.
cassis
A European black currant used mainly to make crème de cassis liqueur and black currant syrup. See also liqueur.
cassolette
A small, individual-size cooking dish.
Cassoulet
A slow-cooked marriage of white beans and assorted meats such as veal, duck or goose.
Cast Iron
One of the original metals used for cookware, cast iron is very efficient at absorbing and retaining heat. There are two basic styles regular and enameled. The latter, which is coated with porcelain enamel, is available in a variety of colors. Regular cast iron requires seasoning (see season) so that it won't react with or absorb the flavors of some foods cooked in it. Seasoning, which is a simple process of rubbing the inside of a pan with cooking oil and heating it for an hour in a moderate oven, gives cast iron a natural nonstick finish. Clean cast iron pans by first wiping them clean with a paper towel or soft cloth and, if necessary, gently scrubbing with a nylon pad.
Castor / Castor Sugar
English term for superfine granulated sugar.
Catawba
Grown on the East Coast, this purplish-red grape is medium-size and oval in shape. It has seeds and an intense, sweet flavor. The Catawba grape is available from September to November but is mainly used commercially (for jams, jellies and white wines), and is rarely found in the market. See also grape.
Cats' tongues
Also known as langues-de-chat (French for "cats' tongues"), these long, thin cookies resemble their namesakes in shape. They are light, dry and slightly sweet. Cats' tongues may be flavored with citrus zest, chocolate or flavoring extracts. Two are sometimes sandwiched together with jam or another sweet filling; they may also be frosted. Cats' tongues are commonly made by pressing a thick batter through a pastry bag. A special langues-de-chat pan is also available in cookware shops.
Cauliflower
a member of the cabbage family (Brassica oleracea); has a head (called a curd) of tightly packed white florets (a purple variety is also available) partially covered with large waxy, pale green leaves on a white-green stalk; some varieties have a purple or greenish tinge.
Cavatelli
Small pasta shells with wavy edges.
Caviar
the salted roe of sturgeon. Red caviar is the salted roe of salmon, and considered a less desirable substitute.
Cayenne; Cayenne Pepper
1. A hot pungent peppery powder blended from various ground dried hot chiles and salt, has a bright orange-red color and fine texture; also known as red pepper. 2. A dried thin, short chile with a bright red color, thin flesh and hot, tart acidic flavor; usually used ground.
Celeriac
More commonly known here as celery root.
Celery
developed in 16th-century Italy, this vegetable (Apium graveolens) grows in bunches of long stringy curved stalks or ribs surrounding a tender heart; can be eaten raw, cooked or used as a flavoring. There are two principal celery varieties; Pascal (which is pale green) and golden (which is creamy white).
Celery Salt
a seasoning blend of ground celery seeds and salt.
Celery Seeds
the seeds of the herb lovage; they are small and brown and are used in pickling and as a flavoring.
Cellophane
Also called bean threads, these gossamer, translucent threads are not really noodles in the traditional sense, but are made from the starch of green mung beans. Sold dried, cellophane noodles must be soaked briefly in hot water before using in most dishes. Presoaking isn't necessary when they're added to soups. They can also be deep-fried. Cellophane noodles can be found in the ethnic section of many supermarkets and in Asian grocery stores. Other names for cellophane noodles include bean thread vermicelli (or noodles), Chinese vermicelli, glass noodles and harusame.
Celsius
A temperature scale (also called centigrade ) in which 0° represents freezing and 100° represents the boiling point. The scale was devised by the Swedish astronomer Anders Celsius. To convert Celsius temperatures to fahrenheit, multiply the Celsius figure by 9, divide by 5 and add 32.
cereal
Breakfast cereals are processed foods (usually ready-to-eat) made from cereal grains. W. H. Kellogg and C. W. Post were the first to begin mass-producing these foods, which have become a morning meal staple in the United States. See also cereal grains.
cereal grains
The word "cereal" comes from Ceres, a pre-Roman goddess of agriculture. Cereal includes any plant from the grass family that yields an edible grain (seed). The most popular grains are barley, corn, millet, oats, quinoa, rice, rye, sorghum, triticale, wheat and wild rice. Because cereals are inexpensive, are a readily available source of protein and have more carbohydrates than any other food, they're a staple throughout the world. See also spelt; teff.
cervelat
A style of sausage that combines chopped veal and/or beef with various mixtures of herbs, spices and other flavorings like garlic or mustard. Cervelats are uncooked but perfectly safe to eat without cooking because they have been preserved by curing, drying and smoking. They can range from semidry to moist and soft. Many countries make cervelats; two of the more well known are Germany's thuringer sausage and Italy's mortadella. These sausages can be sliced and served with bread or cut into pieces and used in a variety of other dishes. See also sausage.
Ceviche
alt spellings: SevicheRaw fish and/or shellfish in a citrus marinade.
Ceylon tea
One of the world's most popular teas, Ceylon is a black pekoe tea whose leaves have been fermented before drying. A two-temperature drying process seals in essential oils that give this tea its special flavor. This superior tea originated in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), but is now grown in other countries such as India and China. See also tea.
Château Bottled
wine bottled at the château where it was grown and made. Usually this means a superior wine, one with a distinct flavor of its own. Other wines are the result of grapes grown in a region and brought together at the vintners for handling. The results are less distinguished, though these regional wines may be very good.
Château-bottled
This designation on a wine label indicates that the wine was bottled on the property where the grapes were grown and the wine made. Other wines are often made from grapes grown throughout a region and brought to a winery for wine production. Estate-bottled means the same as Château-bottled. Both usually designate a wine of superior quality and character.
Châteaubriand
Contrary to popular belief, Châteaubriand is actually a recipe, not a cut of beef. This method of preparation is said to be named for the 19th-century French statesman and author, François Châteaubriand. It's a succulent, thick cut of beef (usually taken from the center of the tenderloin) that's large enough for two people. The Châteaubriand is usually grilled or broiled and served with Béarnaise sauce and Château potatoes (potatoes trimmed into olive shapes and sautéed in butter). See also short loin.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Literally translated as "new castle of the Pope," this famous wine comes from a village of the same name near Avignon, France. Each producer creates its own special blend from the classic 13 grape varieties permitted for this wine. Most Châteauneuf-du-Papes are dry, full-bodied red wines; a small number are white. They're best when aged 5 to 10 years.
Chéri-Suisse
A Swiss liqueur with a cherry-chocolate flavor.
Chévre
French for "goat," as in cheese.
chèvre cheese
French for "goat," chèvre is a pure white goat's-milk cheese with a delightfully tart flavor that easily distinguishes it from other cheeses. Some of the better known chèvres include banon, Bûcheron and montrachet. "Pur chèvre" on the label ensures that the cheese is made entirely from goat's milk; others may have the addition of cow's milk. Chèvres can range in texture from moist and creamy to dry and semifirm. They come in a variety of shapes including cylinders, discs, cones and pyramids, and are often coated in edible ash or leaves, herbs or pepper. Store, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks. Old chèvre takes on a sour taste and should be discarded. See also cheese; pyramide.
cha
Japanese for "tea."
Chablis
Though the United States, Australia and South Africa all make a wine labeled Chablis, only France creates a true Chablis, made entirely from chardonnay grapes. Considered one of the world's great white wines, French Chablis has a crisp, dry flavor with a decided flinty quality. It comes from a small area surrounding the town of Chablis, France. The very best French Chablis comes from one of seven grand cru ("great growth") vineyards that lie in a single block facing south and west toward the village. The term grand cru will appear on the labels of these special wines, followed by the name of the vineyard from which it came. Next in excellence are the Chablis labeled premier cru (meaning "first growth"). Others are considered "simple" Chablis or "petit Chablis."
chafing dish
Chafing dishes found in the ruins of Pompeii prove that this style of cookery is nothing new. Used to warm or cook food, a chafing dish consists of a container (today, usually metal) with a heat source directly beneath it. The heat can be provided by a candle, electricity or solid fuel (such as Sterno). There's often a larger dish that is used as a water basin (like the bottom of a double boiler) into which the dish containing the food is placed. This prevents food from burning.
chalazae
Thick, cordlike strands of egg white that are attached to 2 sides of the yolk, thereby anchoring it in the center of the egg. The more prominent the chalazae, the fresher the egg. Chalazae don't affect the egg in any way, though some custard recipes call for straining to remove them for a smoother texture.
challah; hallah; challa
Served on the Sabbath, holidays, other ceremonial occasions and for everyday consumption, challah is a traditional Jewish yeast bread. It's rich with eggs and has a light, airy texture. Though it can be formed into many shapes, braided challah is the most classic form.
chalupa
Spanish for "boat" or "launch," a chalupa is a corn tortilla dough formed into a small boat shape and fried until crisp. It's then usually filled with shredded beef, veal or chicken, vegetables, cheese or a combination of these, and served as an appetizer.
Chambrer
a French term used to describe the gradual raising of the temperature of wines from the cool wine cellar to room temperature. Slightly warmer, the wine flavor is more pungent.
Champ
An Irish favorite of mashed potatoes, green onions and butter.
champagne
This most celebrated sparkling wine always seems to signal "special occasion." Though bubbling wines under various appellations abound throughout the world, true champagne comes only from the Champagne region in northeast France. Most countries bow to this tradition by calling their sparkling wines by other names such as spumante in Italy, Sekt in Germany and vin mousseux in other regions of France. Only in America do some wineries refer to their bubbling wine as "champagne." Dom Perignon, 17th-century cellarmaster of the Abbey of Hautvillers, is celebrated for developing the art of blending wines to create champagnes with superior flavor. He's also credited for his work in preventing champagne bottles and corks from exploding by using thicker bottles and tying the corks down with string. Even then, it's said that the venerable Dom Perignon lost half his champagne through the bottles bursting. French champagne is usually made from a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir or pinot blanc grapes. California "champagnes" generally use the same varieties, while those from New York more often are from the pressings of catawba and delaware grapes. Good champagne is expensive not only because it's made with premium grapes, but because it's made by the méthode champenoise. This traditional method requires a second fermentation in the bottle as well as some 100 manual operations (some of which are mechanized today). Champagnes can range in color from pale gold to apricot blush. Their flavors can range from toasty to yeasty and from dry (no sugar added) to sweet. A sugar-wine mixture called a dosage added just before final corking determines how sweet a champagne will be. The label indicates the level of sweetness: brut (bone dry to almost dry less than 1.5 percent sugar); extra sec or extra dry (slightly sweeter 1.2 to 2 percent sugar); sec (medium sweet 1.7 to 3.5 percent sugar); demi-sec (sweet 3.3 to 5 percent sugar); and doux (very sweet over 5 percent sugar). The last two are considered dessert wines.
Champignon
"Mushroom," as they say it in France.
Chanterelle
A wild and nutty mushroom with a trumpet-shaped head.
Chantilly
heavy cream whipped then sweetened and flavored with vanilla. Also, a sauce with whipped cream added
Chaource cheese
Similar to camembert, Chaource cheese takes its name from a town in France's Champagne region. It has a white, downy rind with an ivory-colored center. The fruity, rich flavor intensifies and becomes saltier as it matures. Chaource makes a pleasant after-dinner cheese and pairs well with full-bodied white wines. See also cheese.
chapati; chapatti
An unleavened pancakelike bread from India, usually made from a simple mixture of whole-wheat flour and water. The dough is rolled into thin rounds and baked on a griddle. Pieces of chapati are torn off and used as a scoop or pusher for many East Indian dishes.
chapon
A slice or cube of bread that has either been rubbed with garlic or dipped in garlic-flavored oil. The bread is then used to rub the inside of a salad bowl to impart the barest hint of garlic to the greens. The chapon may either be removed or for a more intense garlic flavor left in the bowl to toss with the salad.
char; charr
A fish belonging to the genus Salvelinus and related to both the trout and salmon. The Dolly Varden trout and the Mackinaw trout (or lake trout ) are actually members of the char family. Char live in the icy waters (both fresh and marine) of North America and Europe. The arctic char, which has become more commercially available in recent years, is now raised on government-sponsored fish farms in Iceland. It has a pink flesh with a flavor and texture that's a cross between trout and salmon. Char can be baked, broiled, fried, grilled, poached or steamed. See also fish.
Charcuterie
The French term for delicatessen-style items.
chard
Also referred to as Swiss chard, this member of the beet family is grown for its crinkly green leaves and silvery, celerylike stalks. The variety with dark green leaves and reddish stalks (sometimes referred to as rhubarb chard ) has a stronger flavor than that with lighter leaves and stalks. There's also a ruby chard, which has a bright red stalk and a deep red (tinged with green) leaf. Chard is available year-round but best during the summer. Choose it for its tender greens and crisp stalks. Store, wrapped in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The greens can be prepared like spinach, the stalks like asparagus. Chard, a cruciferous vegetable, is a good source of vitamins A and C, as well as iron.
Chardonnay
Just as cabernet sauvignon has become the most popular high-quality red-wine grape, Chardonnay has taken the lead for first-class white wine grapes and with even greater passion. It's one of the grapes used in making fine French champagnes and white Burgundies. In California, the wine produced from this grape is referred to simply as "Chardonnay." These complex wines are generally rich, buttery, fruity and on the dry side. Some will age up to 10 years. Chardonnay grapes are also grown in parts of Australia, New Zealand, Bulgaria, Italy and Spain. See also burgundy wines.
Charleston hot chile
This relatively new variety of cayenne chile is touted to be twenty times hotter than the jalapeño. Ranging from 3- to 4-inches long, the Charleston hot changes color as it ripens, turning from yellow-green, to golden, to orange and finally to crimson red. It's generally available only at farmer's markets and specialty produce shops. See also chile.
Charlotte
a molded dessert containing gelatin, usually formed in a glass dish or a pan that is lined with ladyfingers or pieces of cake.
Charlottes
mold of biscuits, sponge cake, ladyfinger, etc., or sliced bread, filled with a custard cream and fruit.
Chartreuse
Originally made by the Carthusian monks in France's La Grande Chartreuse monastery, this aromatic liqueur comes in green and yellow varieties. The yellow, colored with saffron, is lighter and sweeter in flavor. Green Chartreuse colored with chlorophyll is drier, has a sharper, more aromatic flavor and is higher in alcohol (110 proof).
chaser
A beverage quaffed directly after drinking another (usually alcoholic) potable. For example, after a shot of whiskey, one might drink a beer "chaser" (a combination known as a boilermaker).
Chasseur
game or poultry served hunter style, with a rich red wine sauce, or a white wine sauce, including mushrooms and shallots.
chasseur sauce
1. French for "hunter," chasseur sauce is a hunter-style brown sauce consisting of mushrooms, shallots and white wine (sometimes tomatoes and parsley). It's most often served with game and other meats. 2. Dishes prepared in a chasseur style are garnished with sautéed mushrooms and shallots.
chaud-froid
Chaud (French for "hot") and froid (French for "cold") combine in this term to explain food (usually meat, poultry or game) that is first cooked, then chilled before serving. The distinguishing feature of a chaud-froid is that the food is glazed with an aspic, which is allowed to set before serving. Decorative vegetable cutouts are often set into the aspic for a colorful garnish.
chaurice
A Creole/Cajun sausage that's hot, spicy and full-flavored. Chaurice is used in Creole/Cajun cooking both as a main meat dish and in numerous dishes such as gumbos and jambalayas.
Chayote
alt spellings: MirlitonAn old Aztec favorite - gourd-like fruit with pale green skin and bland white flesh that can be eaten cooked or raw.
cheddar cheese
This popular cheese originated in the village of Cheddar in the Somerset region of England. It's a firm, cow's-milk cheese that ranges in flavor from mild to sharp, and in color from natural white to pumpkin orange. Orange cheddars are colored with a natural dye called annatto. Cheddar is used to eat out of hand, as well as in a panoply of cooked dishes including casseroles, sauces, soups and so on. See also cheese.
Cheddar, American
a firm cheese made from whole cow's milk (generally pasteurized) produced principally in Wisconsin, New York and Vermont; ranges from white to orange in color and its flavor from mild to very sharp.
Cheese
dairy products made from milk curds separated from the whey; numerous varieties are found worldwide.
cheese steak
Also called Philadelphia cheese steak after the illustrious city that's said to have originated this sandwich in the 1930s. It consists of an Italian or French roll topped by thin slices of beef, cheese (usually American) and sometimes sautéed onions.
cheese straws
Strips of cheese pastry or plain pastry sprinkled with cheese, baked until crisp and golden brown. The pastry strips are sometimes twisted before baking. Cheese straws are served as an appetizer or an accompaniment to soups or salads.
cheese wire
A long, thin wire with wooden handles at each end, used to cut large rounds or wedges of cheese.
Cheesecake
a rich, smooth dessert made by blending cream cheese, cottage cheese or ricotta with sugar, eggs and other flavorings, then baking; usually prepared in a springform pan dusted with cookie crumbs or ground nuts; the baked dessert is often topped with sour cream or fruit.
cheesecloth
Long a versatile kitchen helper, this lightweight natural cotton cloth won't fall apart when wet and will not flavor the food it touches. Cheesecloth has a multitude of culinary uses including straining liquids, forming a packet for herbs and spices (as with bouquet garni) that can be dropped into a soup or stock pot and lining molds (such as for coeur à la crème). It comes in both fine and coarse weaves and is available in gourmet shops, supermarkets and the kitchen section of many department stores. In Britain it's sometimes called butter muslin.
chef's salad
An entrée salad of tossed greens topped by cold julienned meats, thinly sliced vegetables and slices of hard-cooked egg. The salad may be topped with any one of a variety of dressings.
chemisé; en chemise
The word chemise is French for "shirt" or "vest," and the term refers culinarily to a food that is wrapped or coated such as wrapped in pastry, or coated with a sauce or aspic.
Chenin Blanc
Grown in California and France's Loire Valley, the Chenin Blanc grape makes intense, spicy, slightly sweet wine. Chenin Blancs have a strong acidity that modulates the sweetness and promotes good aging. This well-balanced grape is responsible for France's famed Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon and Saumur. It's also used to produce several of California's sparkling wines.
chenna
A fresh, unripened cheese used throughout India, although it's most popular in the eastern part of the country. It is made from cow's or buffalo's milk and resembles a cottage cheese that's been kneaded until it's closer to the consistency of a light cream cheese. Chenna, which is available in Indian markets, is used primarily in a variety of Bengali desserts. See also cheese; panir.
Cherimoya
Also called custard apple, this palm-sized tropical fruit tastes like a combination of pineapple, papaya and banana. Irregularly oval in shape, the cherimoya has a leathery green skin that has a scaly pattern not unlike large, overlapping thumbprints or small protrusions. The flesh, peppered with large, shiny black seeds, is cream-colored and the texture of firm custard. Cherimoyas are available from November through May. Purchase fruit that's firm, heavy for its size and without skin blemishes; avoid those with brown splotches. Store at room temperature until ripe (they will give slightly with soft pressure), then refrigerate, well wrapped, up to 4 days. Serve cherimoyas well chilled. Simply halve, remove the seeds and scoop out the flesh with a spoon. Cherimoyas contain a fair amount of niacin, iron and vitamin C.
cherries jubilee
A dessert of pitted bing or other dark red cherries, sugar and kirsch or brandy, which are combined, flambéed and spooned over vanilla ice cream. The cherries are usually prepared in a chafing dish at the table and flamed with great flourish.
cherry
Said to date as far back as 300 b.c., cherries were named after the Turkish town of Cerasus. Throughout the centuries, cherry trees have been lauded for their deliciously succulent fruit as well as for their beauty. Tourists flock to Washington, D.C., every year to see the cherry blossoms on the ornamental cherry trees that were originally presented to America's capital in 1912 by Tokyo's governor. There are two main groups of cherries sweet and sour. The larger of the two are the firm, heart-shaped sweet cherries. They're delicious for eating out of hand and can also be cooked. The most popular varieties range from the dark red to purplish black bing, lambert and tartarian to the golden, red-blushed royal ann. maraschino cherries are usually made from Royal Ann cherries. Sour cherries are smaller, softer and more globular than the sweet varieties. Most are too tart to eat raw, but make excellent pies, preserves and the like. The bestselling sour cherry varieties are the bright red early richmond (the first cherry available in the late spring) and montmorency, and the dark mahogany red morello. Most fresh cherries are available from May (June for sour cherries) through August. Choose brightly colored, shiny, plump fruit. Sweet cherries should be quite firm, but not hard; sour varieties should be medium-firm. Stemmed cherries are a better buy, but those with stems last longer. Store unwashed cherries in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Dried cherries both sweet and sour are available in many markets today. They can be eaten as a snack, or used in baked goods or desserts as one would use raisins. Cherries contain minor amounts of vitamins and minerals. See also chokecherry.
Cherry Heering
A dark red, cherry-flavored liqueur from Denmark.
cherry pepper
Also called Hungarian cherry pepper, this small (1 to 2 inches in diameter) pepper is round and bright red in color. It has a slightly sweet flavor that can range from mild to medium-hot. Cherry peppers can be found fresh and pickled in jars. See also chile.
Cherry Tomato
a small spherical tomato with a bright red or yellow skin; the yellow-skinned variety has a less acidic and blander flavor than the red-skinned variety.
chervil
A mild-flavored member of the parsley family, this aromatic herb has curly, dark green leaves with an elusive anise flavor. Chervil is one of the main ingredients in fines herbes. Though most chervil is cultivated for its leaves alone, the root is edible and was, in fact, enjoyed by early Greeks and Romans. Today it's available dried but has the best flavor when fresh. Both forms can be found in most supermarkets. It can be used like parsley but its delicate flavor is diminished when boiled. Chervil is also called cicily and sweet cicily. See also herbs; herb and spice chart.
Cheshire cheese
Hailing from the county of Cheshire, this rich, cow's-milk cheese comes in three varieties white, red and blue and has a reputation as one of England's most famous cheeses. The white (actually pale yellow) and red (apricot-colored) Cheshires are very similar, differing mainly in the fact that the red variety has been dyed with annatto. They're young cheeses, having an average age of 8 weeks, with a semifirm texture and a mild, tangy, cheddarlike flavor. Farmhouse Cheshire, rarely exported, is usually aged about 9 months and has a richer, fuller flavor for the effort. Blue Cheshire, boasting a beautiful golden interior veined with blue, is just as rich as stilton but milder in flavor.
chess pie
This is one of the South's favorite pies, with a simple filling of eggs, sugar, butter and a small amount of flour. Chess pie can be varied by adding flavorings such as lemon juice or vanilla, or substituting brown sugar for granulated sugar.
Chestnut
the nut of the sweet chestnut tree (Castanea sativa); edible when cooked, it has a dark brown outer shell, a bitter inner skin, a high starch content and is used in savory and sweet dishes.
Chianti
1. Named for the Chianti region in Tuscany, Italy, this sturdy, dry red wine was once instantly recognizable by its squat, straw-covered bottles (fiaschi ). However, Chianti particularly the better brands is now more often found in the traditional Bordeaux-type bottle. Only a few vintners use the straw-based bottle, which today usually designates a cheaper (and often inferior) product. In Italy, Chianti has long been made from four or five grape varieties, Trebbiano and Malvasia being two of them. Today, however, the cabernet sauvignon grape is being added to some Chianti blends. The word Riserva on the label indicates that the wine is of superior quality and has been aged in oak for at least 3 years before being bottled. Labels indicating "Chianti Classico" refer to the central and original (dating back to the 14th century) growing area from which the grapes came. Chianti's bold flavor is particularly suited to highly seasoned foods. 2. A generic name used for rather ordinary, inexpensive red wine made outside of Italy in countries like Argentina and the United States. The grape varieties that go into such wines are varied and unregulated.
Chibouste
a pastry cream confection.
Chicken
one of the principal USDA-recognized kinds of poultry; any of several varieties of common domestic fowl used for food as well as egg production; has both light and dark meat and relatively little fat.
chicken Tetrazzini
Said to have been named for the opera singer Luisa Tetrazzini, this rich dish combines cooked spaghetti and strips of chicken with a sherry-Parmesan cheese cream sauce. Parmesan or bread crumbs are sprinkled over the surface and the dish is baked until bubbly and golden brown. Turkey is sometimes substituted for chicken in this dish.
Chicken, broiler-fryer
a chicken slaughtered when 13 weeks old; has a soft, smooth-textured skin, relatively lean flesh, flexible breastbone and an average market weight of 3.5 pounds (1.5 kg).
Chicken, roaster
a chicken slaughtered when 3 to 5 months old; has a smooth-textured skin, tender flesh, a less flexible breastbone than that of a broiler and an average market weight of 3.5 to 5 pounds (1.5 to 2 kg).
chicken-fried steak
Particularly popular in the South and Midwest, this dish is said to have been created to use inexpensive beef. It refers to a thin cut of steak that has been tenderized by pounding. It's dipped into a milk-egg mixture and seasoned flour, then fried like chicken until crisp and brown, and served with country gravy.
Chickpea
a somewhat spherical, irregular-shaped pea-like seed of a plant (Licer arieinum) native to the Mediterranean region; has a buff color, firm texture and nutty flavor; used in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisines in soups, stews and salads, it is also roasted and eaten as a snack; also know as ceci and garbanzo bean.
chickpea; chick-pea
Slightly larger than the average pea, these round, irregular-shaped, buff-colored legumes have a firm texture and mild, nutlike flavor. Chickpeas (also called garbanzo beans and ceci ) are used extensively in the Mediterranean, India and the Middle East for dishes such as couscous and hummus. They've also found their way into Spanish stews, Italian minestrone and various Mexican dishes, and are fast becoming popular in many parts of the Western and Southwestern United States. Chickpeas are available canned, dried and in some areas, fresh. They're most commonly used in salads, soups and stews. See also beans.
chicory
This relative of the endive has curly, bitter-tasting leaves that are often used as part of a salad or cooked as greens. In the United States, early endive is sometimes erroneously called chicory. Chicory is available year-round. Choose leaves that are brightly colored and crisp. Store unwashed greens in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 days. Today's trendy radicchio is a red-leafed Italian chicory. Roasted chicory (also called succory ) comes from the roasted, ground roots of some varieties of chicory. It's used as a coffee substitute, and added to some coffees for body and aroma and as an "extender." This coffee-chicory blend is often referred to as "New Orleans" or "Creole" coffee and is a popular beverage in Louisiana.
chiffon
An airy, fluffy mixture, usually a filling for pie. The lightness is achieved with stiffly beaten egg whites and sometimes gelatin.
chiffon cake
Said to have been created in the late 1940s by a professional baker, chiffon cake is distinguished from others of its genre by the fact that oil, rather than solid shortening, is used. It contains leavening, such as baking powder, and stiffly beaten egg whites, which contribute to its rather spongecakelike texture.
Chiffonade
finely cut vegetable strips used to garnish soups, raw, or simmered in butter. Lettuce and sorrel often are used in this manner.
chiffonade salad dressing
A classic french dressing with the addition of finely chopped or shredded hard-cooked egg, green pepper, chives, parsley, beet and onion.
chilaca chile
A mild to medium-hot, rich-flavored chile that, when dried, is known as the pasilla. The narrow chilaca can measure up to 9 inches long and often has a twisted shape. It turns from dark green to dark brown when fully mature. About the only place it can be found fresh in the United States is in farmer's markets. See also chile.
chilaquiles
Because it was invented to use leftovers, this Mexican entree is sometimes called "poor man's dish." It consists of corn tortilla strips sautéed with other foods such as mild green chiles, cheese, chorizo and shredded chicken or beef. The dish may also be layered like lasagna and baked.
chile bean paste
A paste or sauce made with fermented soybeans or sometimes fermented black beans, chopped dried chiles, garlic and other seasonings. This spicy, salty paste is popular in chinese cuisine (Szechuan and Hunan) as well as in many Korean dishes. In Korea, chile bean paste is known as kochujang or kochu chang.
chile con queso
A melted cheese dip flavored with mild green chiles. Served in Mexican restaurants with tortilla chips or cut raw vegetables.
chile; chili pepper; hot pepper
One of the wonders that Christopher Columbus brought back from the New World was a member of the Capsicum genus, the chile. Now this pungent pod plays an important role in the cuisines of many countries including Africa, China (Szechuan region), India, Mexico, South America, Spain and Thailand. There are more than 200 varieties of chiles, over 100 of which are indigenous to Mexico. They vary in length from a huge 12 inches to a 1/4-inch peewee. Some are long, narrow and no thicker than a pencil while others are plump and globular. Their heat quotient varies from mildly warm to mouth-blistering hot. A chile's color can be anywhere from yellow to green to red to black. Dried chiles are available year-round. The availability of fresh chiles varies according to the variety and season. Choose those with deep, vivid colors; avoid chiles with any sign of shriveling or soft spots. Fresh chiles can be stored in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. As a general rule, the larger the chile the milder it is. Small chiles are much hotter because, proportionally, they contain more seeds and veins than larger specimens. Those seeds and membranes can contain up to 80 percent of a chile's capsaicin, the potent compound that gives chiles their fiery nature. Since neither cooking nor freezing diminishes capsaicin's intensity, removing a chile's seeds and veins is the only way to reduce its heat. After working with chiles, it's extremely important to wash your hands thoroughly; failure to do so can result in painful burning of the eyes or skin (wearing rubber gloves will remedy this problem). Chiles are used to make a plethora of by-products including chili paste, tabasco sauce, cayenne and the dried red pepper flakes commonly found in pizzerias. Chiles are cholesterol free and low in calories and sodium. They're a rich source of vitamins A and C, and a good source of folic acid, potassium and vitamin E. See also anaheim; ancho; cascabel; cayenne; charleston hot; cherry pepper; chilaca; chipotle; fresno; guajillo; güero; habanero; hungarian wax; jalapeño; jamaican hot; mulato; pasilla; pepperoncini; pequín; pimiento; poblano; red pepper; ristra; santa fe grande; scotch bonnet; serrano; sweet peppers; thai chile; togarashi.
Chiles Rellenos
hot green peppers stuffed with cheese and dipped in batter and fried.
Chili (Chile) Powder
pure ground dried chiles; depending on the variety used, its flavor can range from sweet and mild to pungent and extremely hot and its color from yellow-orange to red to dark brown; used as a flavoring.
chili con carne
Spanish for "chili with meat," this dish is a melange of diced or ground beef and chiles or chili powder (or both). It originated in the Lone Star State and Texans, who commonly refer to it as "a bowl of red," consider it a crime to add beans to the mixture. In many parts of the country, however, beans are requisite and the dish is called "chili con carne with beans."
chili oil
Vegetable oil in which hot red chiles have been steeped to release their heat and flavor. This spicy-hot oil is red-colored (from the chiles) and is a mainstay of Chinese cookery. It will keep 6 months at room temperature, but will retain its potency longer if refrigerated.
chili paste
Widely used in Chinese cooking, this paste is made of fermented fava beans, flour, red chiles and sometimes garlic. It's available in Chinese markets and many large supermarkets.
chili powder
A powdered seasoning mixture of dried chiles, garlic, oregano, cumin, coriander and cloves. See also spices; herb and spice chart.
chili sauce
A spicy blend of tomatoes, chiles or chili powder, onions, green peppers, vinegar, sugar and spices. This ketchuplike sauce is used as a condiment.
Chili; Chili (Chile) Pepper; Hot Pepper
the fruit of various plants of the capsicum family; a chile can have a mild to fiery hot flavor (caused by the capsaicin in the pepper's placental ribs) with undertones of various fruits or spices. A fresh chile is usually yellow, orange, green or red, and its shape can range from thin, elongated and tapering to conical to nearly spherical; a dried chile, which is sometimes referred to by a different name than its fresh version, is usually more strongly flavored and darker colored.
Chilled
a food that has been refrigerated, usually at temperatures of 30 to 40*F(-1 to +4*C).
chimichanga
This specialty of Sonora, Mexico, is actually a burrito that is fried or deep-fried. It can contain any number of fillings including shredded chicken, beef, veal, refried beans and rice. To prevent the filling from spilling out during frying, the flour tortilla must be rolled around it, with the ends tucked in. Chimichangas are often garnished with salsa, guacamole, sour cream and shredded cheese.
Chimichurri
A condiment made of olive oil, vinegar, parsley, oregano, onion, garlic, salt, cayenne and black pepper.
chine
n. This term refers to the backbone of an animal. It can also describe a cut of meat including the backbone with some adjoining flesh. The chine is removed from the rib bones in cuts such as rack of lamb. chine v. A butchering term meaning to sever the backbone.
Chinese artichoke
Also known as Japanese artichoke, knotroot and chorogi, this hairy plant is a native of China and Japan. It has small white tubers that have a sweet, nutty taste similar to a jerusalem artichoke. They can seldom be found in the United States but, if available, should be purchased when firm and white. Refrigerate in a plastic bag up to a week. Chinese artichokes can be eaten raw, or boiled, baked or steamed. See also artichoke.
Chinese cabbage
The heading "Chinese cabbage" is confusing, at best. This variety, Brassica pekinensis, is also called Napa cabbage, hakusai, celery cabbage, wong bok and Peking cabbage, just to name a few. Another Brassica subspecies chinensis is better known as bok choy and is also called Chinese white cabbage and white mustard cabbage. It's clear that the confusion is warranted. The predominant variety of the pekinensis subspecies of Chinese cabbage has crinkly, thickly veined leaves that are cream-colored with celadon green tips. Unlike the strong-flavored waxy leaves on round heads of cabbage, these are thin, crisp and delicately mild. Chinese cabbage is generally available year-round. Choose firm, tightly packed heads with crisp, green-tipped leaves. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped, up to 3 days. Use raw, or sauté, bake or braise. Chinese cabbage is a good source of vitamin A, folic acid and potassium.
Chinese cuisine
The combined cuisines of China have often been compared to French cuisine as having made the greatest contribution to the world of food. Chinese cooking styles have been divided into five main regions: Southeastern (Canton), East Coast (Fukien), Northeastern (Peking-Shantung), Central (Honan) and Western (Szechuan-Hunan). Cantonese cuisine is famous for its meat roasting and grilling, and fried rice. The province of Fukien is noted for its multitudinous selection of soups and for its fish dishes. The light, elegant Peking-Shantung style originated the famous peking duck, and is highly acclaimed for its subtle and artful use of seasonings. China's Honan province is the home of sweet-and-sour cooking, and the Szechuan-Hunan school is known for its hot, spicy dishes. Mandarin cooking and Shanghai cooking are not regional designations, but terms used to describe cooking styles. The word mandarin means "Chinese official," and mandarin cooking suggests an aristocratic cuisine that gleans the very finest elements from all the regions. Shanghai cooking refers to a cosmopolitan combination of many Chinese cooking styles.
Chinese date
Also called Chinese jujube and red date, this olive-sized fruit has a leathery skin that, depending on the variety, can be red (most common), off-white or almost black. The flavor of the rather dry, yellowish flesh is prunelike. The Chinese date is generally imported from China, though some are being grown on the West Coast. Some fresh fruit is available (mainly in the West), but those found most often (usually in Chinese markets) are dried and must be soaked in water before using. Chinese cooks use this fruit in both savory and sweet dishes.
Chinese sausage
Texturally similar to pepperoni, this dry, rather hard sausage is usually made from meat and a goodly amount of fat. It's smoked, slightly sweet and highly seasoned. Probably the most popular Chinese sausage in this country is lop chong. It and others like it are available in specialty meat shops and Chinese markets. Store up to 1 month in the refrigerator. Chinese sausage makes an excellent addition to stir-fry dishes. See also sausage.
chinois
A metal conical sieve with an extremely fine mesh, used for pureeing or straining. The mesh is so fine that a spoon or pestle must be used to press the food through it.
chipolata sausage
Some-times called "little fingers," these tiny (2- to 3-inch-long), coarse-textured sausages are highly spiced with thyme, chives, coriander, cloves and sometimes hot red-pepper flakes. The French term à la chipolata refers to a garnish of chipolata, chestnuts and glazed vegetables used to accompany roasts. See also sausage.
Chipotle
a dried, smoked jalapeño; this medium-sized chile has a dull tan to dark brown color with a wrinkled skin and a smoky, slightly sweet, relatively milk flavor with undertones of tobacco and chocolate.
Chipotle chile
Dried, smoked, cocoa-colored Jalapeño.
chipped beef
These wafer-thin slices of salted and smoked, dried beef are usually packed in small jars and were once an American staple. Chipped beef is also referred to simply as dried beef. "Shit on a shingle," known in polite society as sos, is military slang used for creamed chipped beef served on toast.
Chippolata
common name for a tiny sausage, this originally described a garnish of chestnuts, glazed vegetables, and small sausages.
chips
The British word for what Americans call "french fries." Their potato chips are called "crisps."
chirashi
A term meaning "scattered sushi" and referring to a Japanese dish consisting of sushi meshi (vinegared rice) served with various ingredients including chopped vegetables, sashimi,
chirinabe
A Japanese one-pot dish consisting of chunks of a firm-fleshed fish (like cod or sea bass), tofu and various vegetables. All ingredients are brought to the table raw along with a pot of simmering broth, which is placed on a heating element and kept simmering throughout the meal. Each diner adds their own ingredients, letting the food cook until tender before retrieving it from the communal pot. Chirinabe is served with various condiments, which usually include ponzu sauce. See also mizutaki; nabemono.
Chitterlings
part of the small intestine of a pig, cooked.
chive
Related to the onion and leek, this fragrant herb has slender, vivid green, hollow stems. Chives have a mild onion flavor and are available fresh year-round. Look for those with a uniform green color and no signs of wilting or browning. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator up to a week. Fresh chives can be snipped with scissors to the desired length. They're delicious in many cooked dishes but should be added toward the end of the cooking time to retain their flavor. Both chives and their edible lavender flowers are a tasty and colorful addition to salads. Frozen and freeze-dried chives are also available in most supermarkets. Chives are a good source of vitamin A and also contain a fair amount of potassium and calcium.
Chives
An herb and member of the onion family (Allium schoenprasum), with long, slender, hollow, green stems and purple flowers; have a mild onion flavor and are generally used fresh, although dried, chopped chives are available; also know as Chinese chives, flowering chives and kucha.
chlodnik
Of Polish origin, this borscht-like soup is made of beets, onions, cucumbers, herbs and sometimes veal. It's served cold, garnished with sour cream.
Chocolate
roasted, ground, refined cacao beans used as a flavoring, confection or beverage.
chocolate syrup
A ready-to-use syrup, usually a combination of unsweetened cocoa powder, sugar or corn syrup and various other flavorings. Chocolate syrup is usually quite sweet and is most often used to flavor milk or as a dessert sauce. It cannot be substituted for melted chocolate in recipes.
Chocolate, white
a confection made of cocoa butter, sugar and flavorings; does not contain cocoa solids.
chokecherry
Any of several varieties of wild cherries native to North America. These small cherries turn from red to almost black when mature. They're very astringent and, though not good for out-of-hand eating, make excellent jams and jellies. Chokeberries are the inedible fruit of an ornamental shrub. See also cherry.
cholent
Of Central European origin, cholent is a traditional Jewish food served on the Sabbath. It varies greatly from family to family, but generally consists of some kind of meat (such as brisket, short ribs or chuck), lima or navy beans, potatoes, barley, onions, garlic and other seasonings. The ingredients are combined in one pot and simmered on stovetop or baked at a very low heat for many hours. Since cooking is forbidden on the Sabbath, many Jewish families prepare and combine the ingredients and place the cholent in a low oven at sundown on Friday, to be ready the following day, which is the Sabbath.
Chop
To cut food into (more or less) bite-sized pieces using the quick, heavy blows of a knife. If a recipe calls for something to be finely chopped, the pieces should be smaller than bite sized, and if it calls for roughly chopped, they should be slightly bigger.
Also, rib section of beef, lamb, or veal, usually with the bone in.
chop suey
Thought to date back at least to the mid-19th century, this Chinese-American dish includes small pieces of meat (usually chicken) or fish, mushrooms, bean sprouts, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots and onions. These ingredients are cooked together and served over rice. Chop suey doesn't exist as a dish in China.
chopsticks
Thin, tapered eating utensils used throughout Asia. They normally range from 10 to 12 inches long (as short as 5 inches for children) and can be made from a variety of materials, including wood, bamboo and plastic. Chopsticks used for cooking or serving can be up to 20 inches long. Japanese chopsticks are pointed at the eating end, whereas Chinese chopsticks are blunt. To use chopsticks for eating, hold them about two-thirds of the distance from the pointed end, with the upper stick between your index finger and the tip of your thumb, much as you would a pencil. The bottom chopstick should remain stationary while the upper stick is moved in an up-and-down, pincerlike motion. Always keep the tips of the chopsticks even.
Chorizo
Crumbly, spiced veal sausage.
Choron sauce
Named for the French chef who created it, Choron sauce is a hollandaise or Béarnaise sauce that has been tinted pink by the additon of tomato puree. It can be served with poultry, meat or fish.
Choucroute
French-style sauerkraut, cooked with goose fat, onions, white wine, and juniper berries or caraway seeds.
Choux Pastry
Also called choux paste, pâte à choux and cream-puff pastry, this special pastry is made by an entirely different method from other pastries. The dough, created by combining flour with boiling water and butter, then beating eggs into the mixture, is very sticky and pastelike. During baking, the eggs make the pastry puff into irregular domes (as with cream puffs). After baking, the puffs are split, hollowed out and filled with a custard, whipped cream or other filling. Besides cream puffs, choux pastry is used to make such specialties as éclairs, gougère and profiteroles.
Chow foon
Flat, wide rice noodles that tend to cook up soft and sticky.
chow mein
A Chinese-American dish that consists of small pieces of meat (usually chicken) or fish and vegetables such as bean sprouts, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, mushrooms and onions. The ingredients are usually fried separately, then combined at the last minute and served over crisp noodles.
chow-chow; chowchow
Thought to have been brought to America by the Chinese railroad laborers, chow-chow is a mustard-flavored mixed-vegetable-and-pickle relish. Originally, the term was used to describe a Chinese condiment of orange peel and ginger in a heavy syrup.
chowder
A thick, chunky fish soup. The name comes from the French chaudière, a caldron in which fishermen made their stews fresh from the sea. New England-style chowder is made with milk or cream, Manhattan-style with tomatoes. Chowder can contain any of several varieties of fish and vegetables. The term is also used to describe any thick, rich soup containing chunks of food (for instance, corn chowder).
chuck
An inexpensive beef cut taken from between the neck and shoulder blade. The most popular cuts of chuck are roasts and steaks. Chuck roasts usually include a portion of the blade bone, which is why they're sometimes referred to as blade pot roasts. For maximum tenderness, chuck cuts must be cooked slowly, as in stewing or braising. See also beef.
chufa; chufa nuts
Actually the tiny, tuberous roots of an African plant of the sedge family, chufa "nuts" are immensely popular in Spain and Mexico, primarily as a base for the refreshing drink, horchata. They have a brown, bumpy skin and a sweet, chestnutlike flavor. Dried chufas are available in bags in many Latin markets and health-food stores. Store them, tightly wrapped, in a cool, dark place for up to a year. Besides their use in horchatas, chufas make an excellent snack. They're also known as earth almonds, earthnuts and tiger nuts.
churn
To agitate cream briskly so that the fat separates from the liquid, thereby forming a solid (butter). The old-fashioned butter churn consisted of a container fitted with wooden blades that, when a crank was rotated, would whirl the cream inside until it turned to butter. The modern household substitute for a butter churn is the food processor.
churro
Similiar to a cruller, this Spanish and Mexican specialty consists of a sweet-dough spiral that is deep-fried and eaten like a doughnut. Churros are usually coated with a mixture of cinnamon and confectioners' (or granulated) sugar.
Chutney
from the Hindi chatni, it is a condiment made from fruit, vinegar, sugar and spices; its texture can range from smooth to chunky and its flavor from mild to hot.
cider
Apple cider was a highly popular early American beverage. Cider is made by pressing the juice from fruit (usually apples). It can be drunk straight or diluted with water. Before fermentation, it's referred to as "sweet" cider. It becomes "hard" cider after fermentation, and can range widely in alcohol content. Apple cider is also used to make vinegar and brandy.
Cider Vinegar
vinegar of unprocessed apple cider.
Cinnamon
a spice that is the inner bark of the branches of a small evergreen tree (Cinnamonum zeylanicum) native to Sri Lanka and India; has an orange-brown color and a sweet, distinctive flavor and aroma; usually sold in rolled-up sticks (quills) or ground and is used for sweet and savory dishes and as a garnish; also known as Ceylon cinnamon.
Cioppino
Italian -style fish stew.
Cipollini
Small, yellowish onions that add sweet and savory accents to cooked dishes.
Citric Acid
an organic acid common to citrus fruits and used in preserving, retaining color or flavoring drinks.
Citron
a fruit likened to an overgrown knobbly lemon, it is famed for its peel, which is used in marmalades, candies and fruit cakes.
citrus fruits
This large family of fruit includes among its members the citron, grapefruit, kumquat, lemon, lime, orange, shaddock, tangelo, tangerine and ugli fruit. Native to Asia, citrus fruits prefer tropical to temperate climates and thrive in many Central and South American countries, as well as the states of Arizona, California, Florida, Louisiana and Texas. All fresh citrus fruits share some degree of tartness and are rich in vitamin C.
citrus stripper
A special tool with a stainless-steel notched edge that cuts 1/4-inch-wide strips from the rind of citrus fruits as well as other fruits and vegetables. It's commonly used to make lemon or lime strips, which are used to flavor drinks or garnish dishes such as salads and desserts. The strips can be cut long or short, depending on whether the stripper is pulled from top to bottom (short strips) or in a long spiral around the fruit (long strips). A citrus stripper can also be used to cut decorative designs in vegetables such as cucumbers and zucchini.
citrus zester
The stainless-steel cutting edge of this kitchen tool has five tiny cutting holes which, when the zester is pulled across the surface of a lemon or orange, create threadlike strips of peel. The zester removes only the colored outer portion (zest) of the peel, leaving the pale bitter pith.
clabber
A popular dish of the Old South, clabber is unpasteurized milk that has soured and thickened naturally. Depending on its thickness, icy-cold clabbered milk was (and sometimes still is) enjoyed as a drink. It may also be eaten with fruit, or topped with black pepper and cream or simply sprinkled with sugar.
clafouti
Originally from the Limousin region, this country-French dessert is made by topping a layer of fresh fruit with batter. After baking it's served hot, sometimes with cream. Some clafoutis have a cakelike topping while others are more like a pudding. Though cherries are traditional, any fruit such as plums, peaches or pears can be used.
Clamart, à la
A French term referring to dishes garnished with peas. It can also refer to a garnish of potato balls.
claret
1. A term used by the English when referring to the red wines from bordeaux. 2. Elsewhere, the word claret is sometimes used as a general reference to light red wines. Even though "claret" sometimes appears on labels it has no legal definition.
Clarified Butter
butter that has been melted and chilled. The solid is then lifted away from the liquid and discarded.
Clarify
to make a liquid clear and free of sediment. Clarification heightens the smoke point of butter. Clarified butter will stay fresh in the refrigerator for at least 2 months.
cleaver
Used mainly by butchers and Chinese cooks, a cleaver is an axlike cutting tool. Its flat sides can be used for pounding, as in tenderizing meat. Cleavers are usually heavy for their size, but evenly weighted. A good cleaver can cut through bone just as easily as it can chop vegetables. The butt end can be used as a pestle (see mortar and pestle) to pulverize seeds or other food items; the flat side is also great for crushing garlic.
clingstone
A term used to describe fruit that has a pit to which the flesh clings tenaciously, one of the most well known being the cling or clingstone peach. See also freestone.
clotted cream
This specialty of Devonshire, England (which is why it's also known as Devonshire or Devon cream ) is made by gently heating rich, unpasteurized milk until a semisolid layer of cream forms on the surface. After cooling, the thickened cream is removed. Clotted cream can be spread on bread or spooned atop fresh fruit or desserts. The traditional English "cream tea" consists of clotted cream and jam served with scones and tea. Clotted cream can be refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 4 days.
cloudberry
Found in northern climes such as New England, Canada and Scandinavia, the cloudberry looks like an amber-colored version of the raspberry to which it's related. The berries are too tart for out-of-hand eating but make excellent jam. Cloudberries are usually wild and therefore hard to find in markets. Other names for this delicious fruit include bake-apple berry, yellow berry and mountain berry.
Clove
1. A spice that is the dried, unopened flower bud of a tropical evergreen tree (Eugenia aromatica); has a reddish-brown color, a nail shape and an extremely pungent, sweet, astringent flavor; available whole or powdered. 2. A segment of a bulb, such as garlic.
club sandwich; clubhouse sandwich
A double-decker sandwich consisting of three slices of toast or bread between which are layers of chicken or turkey, deli meat, lettuce, tomato and whatever else pleases the sandwich maker.
club steak
This tender, flavorful beef cut comes from the small end of the short loin next to the rib. It has a bone along one side, but includes no portion of the tenderloin. See also beef.
Coarsely Chop
to cut food into small pieces, about 3/16 inches (1/2 cm) square.
Coat
to cover a food completely with an outer "coating" of another food or ingredient.
coat a spoon
A cooking technique used to test the doneness of cooked, egg-based custards and sauces. The mixture is done when it leaves an even film (thin to thick, depending on the recipe instructions) on the spoon. This film can be tested by drawing your finger across the coating on the spoon. If it doesn't run and leaves a clear path, it's ready.
Cobb salad
Hollywood's Brown Derby Restaurant made this salad famous. It consists of finely chopped chicken or turkey, cured meat, hard-cooked eggs, tomatoes, avocado, scallions, watercress, cheddar cheese and lettuce tossed with a vinaigrette dressing and topped with an ample portion of crumbled Roquefort or other blue cheese.
Cobbler
a deep-dish fruit pie with a top crust of biscuit dough. Also, a tall drink made of rum, whiskey or claret and garnished with citrus slices or mint or fennel.
cock-a-leekie
A Scottish soup made with chicken broth, chicken, leeks and, sometimes, oatmeal or cream.
Cocktail
an appetizer; either a beverage or a light, highly seasoned food served before meal.
cocktail sauce
A combination of ketchup or chili sauce with prepared horseradish, lemon juice and Tabasco sauce or other hot red pepper seasoning. Cocktail sauce is used with fish and as a condiment for hors D'oeuvres, etc.
cocoa butter
The natural, cream-colored vegetable fat extracted from cocoa beans during the process of making chocolate and cocoa powder. It's used to add smoothness and flavor in some foods (including chocolate) and in making cosmetics and soaps.
cocoa mix
Also called instant cocoa, this mixture of cocoa powder, dry milk and sugar is combined with cold or boiling water to make a cold or hot, chocolate-flavored beverage.
Cocoa Powder
a brown, unsweetened powder produced by crushing cocoa nibs and extracting most of the fat (cocoa butter); it is used as a flavoring; also known as unsweetened cocoa.
Cocoa Powder, Dutch process
coca powder that has been treated with an alkali to neutralize its natural acidity; darker and milder than a nonalkalized powder.
coconut
Malaysia is the motherland of the coconut palm, which now grows in parts of South America, India, Hawaii and throughout the Pacific Islands. This prolific tree yields thousands of coconuts over its approximately 70-year lifespan. Each coconut has several layers: a smooth, deep tan outer covering; a hard, dark brown, hairy husk with three indented "eyes" at one end; a thin brown skin; the creamy white coconut meat; and, at the center, a thin, opaque coconut juice. The smooth outer shell is usually removed before the coconut is exported. The coconut palm maximizes its potential by producing several products including food (coconut meat and buds) and drink (coconut juice, vinegar and toddy the latter a potent fermented drink made from the tree's sap). Dried coconut meat, called copra, is pressed and used to make coconut oil, which is used in commercial frying and as a component in many packaged goods such as candies, margarines, soap and cosmetics. Coconut oil one of the few nonanimal saturated fats is used widely in the manufacture of baked goods such as commercial cookies. Certain major manufacturers have replaced it with the more expensive unsaturated fats with an eye toward cholesterol consciousness. The coconut palm's hard shells can be used for bowls, the fiber for ropes and nets, the wood for building, the roots for fuel and the leaves for baskets, hats, mats and thatching. The flesh of unripe coconut (usually not exported) has a jellylike consistency and can be eaten from the shell with a spoon. Upon ripening, the flesh becomes white and firm. Fresh coconuts are available year-round, with the peak season being October through December. Choose one that's heavy for its size and that sounds full of liquid when shaken; avoid those with damp "eyes." Whole, unopened coconuts can be stored at room temperature for up to 6 months, depending on the degree of ripeness. The liquid in a coconut is drained by piercing two of the three eyes with an ice pick. This thin juice can be used as a beverage, though it shouldn't be confused with coconut "milk". Then the meat is removed and the inner skin scraped off. Chunks of coconut meat can be grated or chopped, either in the food processor or by hand. One medium coconut will yield 3 to 4 cups grated. Grated fresh coconut should be tightly covered and can be refrigerated up to 4 days, frozen up to 6 months. Packaged coconut is available in cans or plastic bags, sweetened or unsweetened, shredded or flaked, and dried, moist or frozen. It can sometimes also be found toasted. Unopened canned coconut can be stored at room temperature up to 18 months; coconut in plastic bags up to six months. Refrigerate both after opening. Coconut is high in saturated fat and is a good source of potassium. Coconut milk and coconut cream are sometimes called for in recipes, particularly in curried dishes. Coconut milk is made by combining equal parts water and shredded fresh or desiccated coconut meat and simmering until foamy. The mixture is then strained through cheesecloth, squeezing as much of the liquid as possible from the coconut meat. The coconut meat can be combined with water again for a second, diluted batch of coconut milk. Coconut cream is made in the same manner, but enriches the mix by using 1 part water to 4 parts coconut. Milk can be substituted for water for an even richer result. Discard the coconut meat after making these mixtures. Coconut milk and cream also come canned and may sometimes be found frozen in Asian markets and some supermarkets. Do not confuse sweetened "cream of coconut" used mainly for desserts and mixed drinks with unsweetened coconut milk or cream.
Coconut Milk (and Coconut Cream)
Are sometimes called for in recipes, particularly in curried dishes. Coconut milk is made by combining equal parts water and shredded fresh or desiccated coconut meat and simmering until foamy. The mixture is then strained through cheesecloth, squeezing as much of the liquid as possible from the coconut meat. The coconut meat can be combined with water again for a second, diluted batch of coconut milk. Coconut cream is made in the same manner, but enriches the mix by using 1 part water to 4 parts coconut. Milk can be substituted for water for an even richer result. Discard the coconut meat after making these mixtures. Coconut milk and cream also come canned and may sometimes be found frozen in Asian markets and some supermarkets. Do not confuse sweetened "cream of coconut", used mainly for desserts and mixed drinks, with unsweetened coconut milk or cream.
Coconut, dried
the shredded or flaked flesh of the coconut; often sweetened; also known as copra.
cocotte
This French word for "casserole" refers to a round or oval casserole with a tight-fitting lid. It can be either individual-size or large and is traditionally made of earthenware. The phrase en cocotte means "cooked in a casserole."
Cod
a large family of saltwater fish, including Atlantic cod, Pacific cod, pollock, haddock, whiting and hake; generally, they have a milk, delicate flavor, lean, white flesh and a firm texture and are available fresh, sun-dried, salted or smoked.
Coddle
to gently poach in barely simmering liquid.
coeur à la crème
French for "heart with cream," this classic dessert is made in a special heart-shaped wicker basket or mold with holes in it. Cream cheese is mixed with sour cream or whipping cream (and sometimes sugar) and placed into the special mold or cheesecloth-lined basket. The dessert is then refrigerated overnight, during which time the whey (liquid) drains out through the basket or perforated mold. To serve, the dessert is unmolded and garnished with fresh berries or other fruit.
coffee
Ethiopia is thought to be the motherland of the first coffee beans, which, throughout the ages, found their way to Brazil and Colombia the two largest coffee producers today. Coffee plantations abound throughout other South and Central American countries, Cuba, Hawaii, Indonesia, Jamaica and many African nations. There are hundreds of different coffee species but the two most commercially viable are coffea robusta and coffea arabica. The sturdy, disease-resistant coffea robusta, which thrives at lower altitudes, produces beans with a harsher, more single-dimensional flavor than the more sensitive coffea arabica, which grows at high altitudes (3,000 to 6,500 feet) and produces beans with elegant, complex flavors. The coffee plant is actually a small tree that bears a fruit called the "coffee cherry." Growing and tending these coffee trees is a labor-intensive process because blossoms, unripe (green) and ripe red cherries can occupy a tree simultaneously, necessitating hand-picking the fruit. The coffee cherry's skin and pulp surround two beans enclosed in a parchmentlike covering. Once these layers are discarded, the beans are cleaned, dried, graded and hand-inspected for color and quality. The "green" beans (which can range in color from pale green to muddy yellow) are then exported, leaving the roasting, blending and grinding to be done at their destination. Coffee can be composed of a single type of coffee bean or a blend of several types. Blended coffee produces a richer, more complex flavor than single-bean coffees. The length of time coffee beans are roasted will affect the color and flavor of the brew. Among the most popular roasts are American, French, Italian, European and Viennese. American roast (also called regular roast) beans are medium-roasted, which results in a moderate brew not too light or too heavy in flavor. The heavy-roasted beans are French roast and dark French roast, which are a deep chocolate brown and produce a stronger coffee, and the glossy, brown-black, strongly flavored Italian roast, used for espresso. European roast contains two-thirds heavy-roast beans blended with one-third regular-roast; Viennese roast reverses those proportions. Instant coffee powder is a powdered coffee made by heat-drying freshly brewed coffee. Freeze-dried coffee granules (or crystals) are derived from brewed coffee that has been frozen into a slush before the water is evaporated. Freeze-dried coffee is slightly more expensive than regular instant coffee, but is also reputed to be superior in flavor. Coffee, tea and cocoa all contain caffeine, a stimulant that affects many parts of the body including the nervous system, kidneys, heart and gastric secretions. With the exception of the Madagascar coffee species mascarocoffea vianneyi which actually grows beans that are decaf-feinated, coffee beans must go through a process to produce decaffeinated coffee. The caffeine is removed by one of two methods, either of which is executed before the beans are roasted. In the first method, the caffeine is chemically extracted with the use of a solvent, which must be completely washed out before the beans are dried. The second method called Swiss water process first steams the beans, then scrapes away the caffeine-rich outer layers. Though there was once concern about the safety of solvent residues, research has found that the volatile solvents disappear entirely when the beans are roasted. Coffee, whether ground or whole-bean, loses its flavor quickly. To assure the freshest, most flavorful brew, buy fresh coffee beans and grind only as many as needed to brew each pot of coffee. Inexpensive grinders are available at most department and discount stores. Store whole roasted beans in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks. For longer storage, freeze whole beans, freezer-wrapped, up to 3 months. Since room-temperature ground coffee begins to go stale within a couple of days after it's ground, it should be refrigerated in an airtight container and can be stored up to 2 weeks. See also café au lait; café brulot; café latte; café macchiato; café mocha; cappuccino; espresso; greek coffee; irish coffee; thai coffee; turkish coffee; viennese coffee.
coffee cake
This rich, sweet, cakelike bread is usually eaten for breakfast or brunch. Coffee cakes can be made with yeast, but those using baking soda or baking powder take less time and are also delicious. Coffee cakes often contain fruit, nuts and sometimes a cream-cheese filling. They can be frosted or not and are usually best served slightly warm.
cognac
Hailing from in and around the town of Cognac in western France, this potent potable is the finest of all brandies. Cognac is double-distilled immediately after fermentation. It then begins its minimum 3-year aging in Limousin oak. Stars on a cognac label denote the following oak-aging: 1 star aged 3 years; 2 stars aged at least 4 years; 3 stars aged at least 5 years. Older cognacs are labeled V.S. (very superior), V.S.O.P. (very superior old pale) and V.V.S.O.P. (very, very, superior old pale). A cognac label can no longer legally claim over 7 years aging. It's been difficult for authorities to accurately keep track of Cognacs aged longer than this, so they've limited what producers may claim. Label terms X.O., Extra and Reserve usually indicate a Cognac is the oldest a producer distributes. Fine champagne on the label indicates that 60 percent of the grapes came from a superior grape-growing section of Cognac called Grande Champagne. One designating grande fine champagne proclaims that all the grapes for that cognac came from that eminent area.
Cointreau
A fine French liqueur that's clear, colorless and orange-flavored.
cola
A sweet carbonated beverage containing cola-nut extract and other flavorings.
cola nut; kola nut
Caffeine and theobromine, used in the manufacture of some soft drinks, are derivatives of the cola nut, offspring of the cola tree that grows in Africa, South America and the West Indies. Chewing this nut is a favorite pastime of natives who claim it diminishes fatigue and thirst and (for some) has aphrodisiac properties.
colander
Used for draining liquid from solids, the colander is a perforated, bowl-shaped container. It can be metal, plastic or ceramic.
Colbert sauce
Named after the chief minister of King Louis XIV, this sauce combines meat glaze, butter, wine, shallots, tarragon and lemon juice. It's served with grilled meats and game.
colby cheese
A mild, whole-milk cheddar cheese that has a softer, more open texture than regular cheddar. Because it's a high-moisture cheese, it doesn't keep as well as other cheddars. Colby is popular for eating out of hand, in sandwiches and for cooking. See also cheese.
colcannon
A delicious Irish peasant dish of milk- and butter-moistened mashed potatoes mixed with finely chopped cooked onions and kale or cabbage.
cold cuts
Slices of cold meats like bologna, liverwurst, roast beef, salami, and turkey.
cold duck
Originating in Germany, this pink sparkling wine is a mixture of champagne, sparkling Burgundy and sugar. Its origin is traced back to the Bavarian practice of mixing bottles of previously opened Champagne with cold sparkling Burgundy so the Champagne wouldn't be wasted. This mixture was called kalte ende ("cold end"); over the years, ende transliterated to ente ("duck"). The wines used to make cold duck are often of inferior quality. The resulting potation is quite sweet with few other distinguishable characteristics.
cole slaw
From the Dutch koolsla, meaning "cool cabbage," cole slaw is a salad of shredded red or white cabbage mixed with a mayonnaise, vinaigrette or other type of dressing. Other ingredients such as chopped onion, celery, sweet green or red pepper, pickles or herbs may be added. There are probably as many variations of cole slaw as there are cooks.
Coleslaw
A salad of Dutch origin made from shredded cabbage and sometimes onions, sweet peppers, and/or pickles, bound with a mayonnaise, vinaigrette or other dressing and sometimes flavored with herbs.
Collard Greens
a leafy, dark green vegetable with paddle-like leaves that grow on tall tough stalks; the leaves have a flavor reminiscent of cabbage and kale.
collard; collard greens; collards
Long a staple of soul food, collard (also called collard greens and just plain collards ) is a variety of cabbage that doesn't form a head, but grows instead in a loose rosette at the top of a tall stem. It's often confused with its close relative kale and, in fact, tastes like a cross between cabbage and kale. Collard's peak season is January through April, but it's available year-round in most markets. Look for crisp green leaves with no evidence of yellowing, wilting or insect damage. Refrigerate collard in a plastic bag 3 to 5 days. They can be prepared in any manner suitable for spinach or cabbage. Collard is an excellent source of vitamins A and C, calcium and iron.
collins
A tall, iced cocktail made with liquor (gin, rum, vodka, whiskey or brandy), lemon juice, sugar and soda water, and garnished with a lemon slice. The drink is served in a 10- to 12-ounce "collins" glass. The most popular of this genre is the Tom Collins, which is made with gin and is said to have been named for its creator.
comal
A round, flat griddle on which tortillas are cooked. In Mexico, comals used over open fires are usually made of unglazed earthenware. Those intended for use with electric and gas heat are more often made of a light metal, such as tin. The earthenware and thin metal allow fast heat penetration, thereby cooking the tortillas quickly important so they don't become dry and brittle.
Combine
to mix two or more ingredients together.
Comice pear
This large, exquisite pear has a meltingly smooth, sweet flesh and fruit-filled fragrance. It ranges in color from greenish-yellow to yellow blushed with red. It's available from October to January and is best eaten uncooked. See also pear.
complete protein
A complete protein food source is one that contains adequate amounts of the nine essential
Composed Salad; Salade Composée
A salad in which the ingredients are artfully arranged, rather than tossed together. The dressing for a composed salad is usually drizzled over the top of the ingredients. In French the term is known as salade composée.
Compote
mixed fruit, raw or cooked, usually served in compote dishes.
compound butter
Butter creamed with other ingredients such as herbs, garlic, wine, shallots and so on. The French term for compound butter is beurre composé.
Comte
The French equivalent to Gruyére.
Concassé
A coarsely chopped or ground mix.
conchiglie
Italian for "seashells," this shell-shaped pasta is formed to resemble a conch shell. Conchigliette are very tiny shells, conchiglioni are large shells.
conching
A manufacturing technique used to give chocolate a smooth texture. See chocolate for a more complete description of this process.
Concord grape
Grown mainly on the East Coast, the Concord is a beautiful blue-black grape that often appears to have been powdered with silver. This mild-flavored grape has seeds and a slip-off skin. It's available in September and October and is used mainly for juice, jams and for out-of-hand eating. See also grape.
condiment
A savory, piquant, spicy or salty accompaniment to food, such as a relish, sauce, mixture of spices and so on. Ketchup and mustard are two of the most popular condiments.
Condiments
seasonings that enhance the flavor of foods with which they are served.
confection
A piece of candy or sweetmeat; also a sweet dish. A confectionery is a candy shop.
Confectioners' Sugar
refined sugar ground into a fine, white, easily dissolved powder; also known as powdered sugar and 10X sugar.
confectionery coating
Used as a dip for candies, a confectionery or summer coating is a blend of sugar, milk powder, hardened vegetable fat and various flavorings. It comes in a variety of pastel colors. Some have lowfat cocoa powder added, but they do not contain cocoa butter.
Confit
Meat (usually goose, duck or veal) that is slowly cooked in its own fat and preserved with the fat packed around it as a seal. The term also applies to vegetables slowly cooked and preserved in animal fat or vegetable oil.
confiture
French for "jam" or "preserves."
congee
A gruel of boiled rice and water, which serves as a background for a host of other foods including fish, chicken, peanuts, sesame seed and eggs. In China, where it's also known as jook or juk, congee is particularly popular for breakfast. In Thailand this dish is known as khao tom gung.
conserve
A mixture of fruits, nuts and sugar, cooked together until thick, often used to spread on biscuits, crumpets and so on.
Consommé
clear broth that is made from meat.
Conti, à la
A French term referring to dishes made or garnished with lentils (usually pureed) and sometimes cured meat.
continental breakfast
A light breakfast that usually consists of a breadstuff (such as toast, croissants, pastries, etc.) and coffee, tea or other liquid. The continental breakfast is the antithesis of the hearty english breakfast.
Convection Cooking
convection ovens use a small fan in the rear of the oven to circulate air all around the food to cook it quickly and more evenly. Cooking times are generally reduced by 25%. Most manufacturers suggest that you reduce the cooking temperature given in the recipe by 25 degrees and bake it for the time specified.
Convection oven
an electric oven in which heat is circulated rapidly around the cooking foods by means of a fan, resulting in fast crisping and browning.
Converted rice
rice that is pressure-steamed and dried before milling to remove surface starch and help retain nutrients; has a pale beige color and the same flavor as white rice; also known as parboiled rice.
cookie
A cookie can be any of various hand-held, flour-based sweet cakes either crisp or soft. The word cookie comes from the Dutch koekje, meaning "little cake." The earliest cookie-style cakes are thought to date back to seventh-century Persia, one of the first countries to cultivate sugar. There are six basic cookie styles, any of which can range from tender-crisp to soft. A drop cookie is made by dropping spoonfuls of dough onto a baking sheet. Bar cookies are created when a batter or soft dough is spooned into a shallow pan, then baked, cooled and cut into bars. Hand-formed (or molded) cookies are made by shaping dough by hand into small balls, logs, crescents and other shapes. Pressed cookies are formed by pressing dough through a cookie press (or pastry bag) to form fancy shapes and designs. Refrigerator (or icebox) cookies are made by shaping the dough into a log, which is refrigerated until firm, then sliced and baked. Rolled cookies begin by using a rolling pin to roll the dough out flat; then it is cut into decorative shapes with cookie cutters or a pointed knife. Other cookies, such as the German springerle, are formed by imprinting designs on the dough, either by rolling a special decoratively carved rolling pin over it or by pressing the dough into a carved cookie mold. In England, cookies are called biscuits, in Spain they're galletas, Germans call them keks, in Italy they're biscotti and so on.
cookie cutter
A metal or plastic device used to cut decorative shapes out of dough that has been rolled flat. Cookie cutters are available singly or in sets. Dipping a cookie cutter into flour or granulated sugar will prevent it from sticking to soft doughs. A rolling cookie cutter has a wooden handle at the end of which is a metal or plastic cylinder marked with raised designs. When the cutter is rolled across the dough, it cuts a jigsaw-puzzle pattern of differently shaped cookies without any wasted dough.
cookie mold
Most often made of wood, these decorative molds are used to create designs in some European cookies. The cookie dough is pressed into a floured mold, leveled off with a knife, then inverted onto a baking sheet. Cookie molds come in all sizes and shapes and are available at specialty kitchenware shops.
cookie press
Also called a cookie gun, this tool consists of a hollow tube fitted at one end with a decorative template or nozzle, and at the other with a plunger. The tube is filled with a soft cookie dough that the plunger forces out through the decorative tip to form professional-looking pressed cookies. Cookie presses come with a selection of interchangeable templates and other tips. spritz are one of the best-known cookies formed by this tool.
Cookie sheet
a flat, firm sheet of metal, usually aluminum, with open sides on which cookies, biscuits and other items are baked.
cookie stamp
A small, decorative, round or square cookie imprinter, usually made of glass, ceramic or wood. When the stamp is pressed into a ball of cookie dough, it not only flattens it, but imprints a relief design on the surface. Cookie stamps come in many designs and are available at specialty kitchenware shops.
Cookies
small, sweet, flat pastries, usually classified by preparation or makeup techniques as drop, icebox, bar, cutout, pressed and wafer.
cooking wine
A wine labeled "cooking wine" is generally an inferior wine that would not be drunk on its own. It lacks distinction and flavor and in times past has often been adulterated with salt. The rule of thumb when cooking with wine is only to use one you'd drink and to be sure the wine's flavor complements the food with which it's paired.
Cool
to allow a food to sit until it is no longer warm to the touch.
Cooling rack
a flat grid of closely spaced metal wires resting on small feet; used for cooling baked goods by allowing air to circulate around the food.
copper cookware
An excellent heat conducter, copper is generally lined with tin or stainless steel to keep it from interacting with certain foods. Copper should be washed in hot, soapy water and dried immediately. Though copper is relatively expensive and requires polishing, it is the cookware of choice of many professionals. It will also eventually require retinning.
Coq au vin
a French dish of chicken, mushrooms, onions, and smoked meat cooked in red wine.
coquilles St. Jacques
Classically served in a scallop shell, this special dish consists of scallops in a creamy wine sauce, topped with bread crumbs or cheese and browned under a broiler.
Coral
the roe of female lobsters. It turns bright red when cooked and is used in sauces.
coralli
Tiny pasta tubes, generally used in soup.
Cordon bleu
a dish consisting of thin boneless chicken breasts or veal scallops separated by a thin slice of prosciutto or other ham and Emmenthal-style cheese, breaded and sautéed.
Core
to remove the central seeded area from a fruit.
corer
A utensil designed to remove the core (or center) from fruit or vegetables. Corers are usually made of stainless steel and come in different shapes for different uses. An all-purpose corer, used for apples, pears and the like, has a medium-length shaft with a circular cutting ring at the end. The core can be cut and removed with this tool. Another kind of apple corer is shaped like a spoked wheel with handles and not only cores the apple, but cuts it into wedges as well. A zucchini corer has a long, pointed, trough-shaped blade that, when inserted at one end of the zucchini and rotated, will remove the center, leaving a hollow tube for stuffing. A pineapple corer is a tall, arch-handled utensil with two serrated, concentric cutting rings at the base. After the top and bottom of the pineapple are sliced off, the corer is inserted from the top and twisted downward. The tool not only removes the core, but also the outer shell, leaving pineapple rings.
corkage
A fee charged by some restaurants to open and serve a bottle of wine brought in by the patron. A quick call to the restaurant will confirm the amount of the corkage fee. Some restaurants charge a lower fee if the patron's wine is not on the restaurant's wine list, such as might be the case with an older wine or a particularly distinctive vintage.
Corked / Corky
description of wine whose flavor has been tainted by the odor of the cork. Corked also means a wine bottle with the cork in.
corkscrew
A tool used to withdraw corks from bottles. Typically, a corkscrew has a pointed metal spiral with a transverse handle at one end. There are many varieties of corkscrews, however, including one that holds the bottle while a crank handle drives the screw into the cork and then extracts it.
Corn
a tall, annual plant native to the western hemisphere producing white, yellow, blue or multicolored grains arranged on a cob; consumed as a vegetable when young and available fresh, canned or frozen, or dried and ground into cornmeal; also known as maize.
corn dog
Created in 1942 by Texan Neil Fletcher for the State Fair, a corn dog is a frankfurter or other sausage dipped in a heavy cornbread batter and fried or baked. Corn dogs are often served on a stick for easy eating. See also hot dog; pigs in blankets.
Corn Flour
finely ground cornmeal; has a white or yellow color and is used as a breading or in combination with other flours.
corn husks
These papery husks from corn are used primarily in making tamales, but they're also used to wrap other foods for steaming. Latin markets sell packaged corn husks, which must be softened before use. To do so, soak husks in very hot water for about 30 minutes, then drain, pat dry and use.
Corn Oil
a pale yellow oil obtained from corn endosperms; odorless, almost flavorless, high in polyunsaturated fats with a high smoke point; a good medium for frying, also used in baking, dressings and to make margarine.
corn pone
Extremely popular in the southern United States, corn pone is an eggless cornbread that is shaped into small ovals and fried or baked.
corn salad
Native to Europe, corn salad has nothing to do with corn... but it is used in salads. The narrow, dark green leaves of this plant are tender and have a tangy, nutlike flavor. In addition to being used as a salad green, corn salad can also be steamed and served as a vegetable. Though it's often found growing wild in American cornfields, it's considered a "gourmet" green and is therefore expensive and hard to find. It doesn't keep well and should be used within a day or two of purchase. Corn salad should be washed and drained completely of any excess moisture before being stored airtight in a plastic bag. It's also called field salad, field lettuce, lamb's lettuce and mâche.
Corn Syrup
a thick, sweet syrup derived from cornstarch, composed of dextrose and glucose; available as clear (light) or brown (dark), which has caramel flavor and color added.
corn whiskey
Still called moonshine and white lightning in some rural areas of the South, corn whiskey is distilled from a fermented mash of not less than 80 percent corn. It's distilled at less than 160 proof (80 percent alcohol). See also whiskey.
cornbread
An all-American quick bread that substitutes cornmeal for most (or sometimes all) of the flour. It can include various flavorings such as cheese, scallions, and molasses. Cornbread can be thin and crisp or thick and light. It can be baked Southern style in a skillet or in a shallow square, round or rectangular baking pan. Some of the more popular cornbreads are hushpuppies, johnnycakes and spoon bread.
Corned
meat that has been cured in a brine solution.
Corned Beef
beef, usually a cut from the brisket or round, cured in a seasoned brine; has a grayish-pink to rosy red color and a salty flavor; also known as salt beef.
Cornell bread
The Cornell formula to enrich bread was developed in the 1930s at New York's Cornell University. It consists of 1 tablespoon each soy flour and nonfat milk powder plus 1 teaspoon wheat germ for each cup of flour used in a bread recipe. These enrichments are placed in the bottom of the measuring cup before the flour is spooned in.
cornet
French for "horn," a cornet can be any of several horn- or cone-shaped items including pastry (filled with whipped cream), a thin slice of cured meat, or a paper cone (filled with candy or nuts).
cornichon
French for "gherkin," cornichons are crisp, tart pickles made from tiny gherkin cucumbers. They're a traditional accompaniment to pâtés as well as smoked meats and fish.
Cornichons
A gherkin in France.
Cornish pasty
Named after Cornwall, England, these savory turnovers consist of a short-crust pastry enfolding a chopped meat-and-potato filling. Other vegetables and sometimes fish are also used. In the 18th and 19th centuries, pasties were the standard lunch of Cornwall's tin miners. It was common to place a savory mixture in one end and an apple mixture in the other so both meat and dessert could be enjoyed in the same pasty.
Cornmeal
dried, ground corn kernels (typically of a variety known as dent); has a white, yellow or blue color, gritty texture, slightly sweet, starchy flavor and available in three grinds (fine, medium and coarse); used in baking, as a coating for fried foods or cooked as polenta.
Cornstarch
a dense, very fine powdery flour made from ground corn endosperm and used as a thickening agent.
Cortland apple
A popular apple in the Northeast and northern Midwest, the Cortland has a smooth, shiny red skin. Its flesh is crisp, juicy, sweet-tart and resists browning. It's an all-purpose apple good for cooking as well as out-of-hand eating. See also apple.
costmary
An herb belonging to the composite plant family, which includes daisies, dandelions, marigolds and sunflowers. The silvery, fragrant costmary leaves have a minty, lemony character. They're used in salads, and as a flavoring in soups, veal and chicken dishes and sausages. Costmary is also called alecost (because it was used in making ale), Bible leaf (because its long leafs were used as book markers) and mint geranium.
cotriade
From Brittany, France, cotriade is a fish soup made with potatoes. It's usually ladled over thick slices of bread.
cottage cheese
A fresh cheese made from whole, part-skimmed or skimmed pasteurized cow's milk. "Sweet curd" cottage cheese by far the most popular has a rather mild (sometimes bland) flavor because the curds are washed to remove most of the cheese's natural acidity. The texture of cottage cheese is usually quite moist. If the curds are allowed to drain longer, pot cheese is formed; longer yet and the firm farmer's cheese is created. Cottage cheese comes in three forms: small-curd, medium-curd and large-curd (sometimes called "popcorn" cottage cheese). Creamed cottage cheese has had 4 to 8 percent cream added to it, lowfat cottage cheese has from 1 to 2 percent fat (check the label), and nonfat cottage cheese has, of course, zero fat. Cottage cheese is sold plain and flavored, the most popular additions being chives and pineapple (but not together). Because it's more perishable than other cheeses, cartons of cottage cheese are stamped on the bottom with the date they should be pulled from the shelves. Store cottage cheese in the coldest part of the refrigerator for up to 10 days past the stamped date. See also cheese.
cottage pudding
A dessert composed of a plain but rich cake smothered with a sweet sauce, such as lemon or chocolate.
cotto sausage
The word cotto is Italian for "cooked," and is used to describe this soft Italian salami. It can be found whole in some specialty shops, but is more often sold sliced. Cotto sausage is excellent for sandwiches and cold-cut platters. See also sausage.
cotton candy
A fluffy, cottony confection made from long, thin spun sugar threads, which are wound onto a cardboard cone for easy eating. Cotton candy is often tinted with food coloring, most commonly pink, and is sometimes also flavored. It dates back to the early 1900s, and has been a favorite at amusement parks, county fairs and circuses ever since.
cottonseed oil
A viscous oil obtained from the seed of the cotton plant. Most of the cottonseed oil produced is used in combination with other oils to create vegetable oil products. It's used in some margarines and salad dressings, and for many commercially fried products. See also fats and oils.
coulibiac
This French adaptation of the Russian original (kulebiaka ) consists of a creamy melange of fresh salmon, rice, hard-cooked eggs, mushrooms, shallots and dill enclosed in a hot pastry envelope. The pastry is usually made with brioche dough. Coulibiacs can be large or small but are classically oval in shape. They can be served as a first or main course.
Coulis
A thick puree or sauce.
country captain
Now an American classic, country captain is said to have taken its name from a British army officer who brought the recipe back from his station in India. It consists of chicken, onion, tomatoes, green pepper, celery, currants, parsley, curry powder and other seasonings, all slowly cooked together over low heat in a covered skillet. The finished dish is sprinkled with toasted almonds and usually served with rice.
country gravy
A gravy made from pan drippings, flour and milk. It can be thick to thin, depending on the amount of milk added. Country gravy is a popular accompaniment to chicken-fried steak.
coupe
Ice cream or sherbet with a topping of fruit, whipped cream and, traditionally, glazed chestnuts (marrons glacés). Classically, the dessert is served in a coupe dish, which is stemmed, and has a wide, deep bowl.
Court Bouillon
a seasoned broth made with water and meat, fish or vegetables, and seasonings.
court-bouillon
Traditionally used for poaching fish or vegetables, a court-bouillon is a broth made by cooking various vegetables and herbs (usually an onion studded with a few whole cloves, celery, carrots and a bouquet garni) in water for about 30 minutes. Wine, lemon juice or vinegar may be added. The broth is allowed to cool before the vegetables are removed.
Couscous
Granular semolina popular in North Africa.
coush-coush
Thick cereal-type dish that's a cajun breakfast specialty. It's made by stirring boiling water into a mixture of yellow cornmeal, baking powder, salt and pepper, then turning the mixture into a skillet containing preheated fat. During cooking, the pan becomes coated with a toasty brown crust, which is broken up and stirred into the cereal before serving. Coush-coush is served with plenty of butter, milk or cream and cane syrup or sugar.
cowberry
Often found growing in pastures, the tart, red cowberry is a member of the cranberry family. It grows in northern Europe, Canada and Maine, and is used for sauces and jams. Also called mountain cranberry.
Crécy, à la
A French term referring to dishes cooked or garnished with carrots. The name comes from Crécy, France, where the finest French carrots are cultivated.
Créme anglaise
Rich custard sauce, often used as a topping or plating accompaniment to fruits and pastries.
Créme fraîche
Cream that is allowed to set and thicken to a velvety rich texture.
crépinette
French in origin, this small, slightly flattened sausage is made of minced lamb, veal or chicken and sometimes truffles. Crépinettes are usually cooked by coating them in melted fat and bread crumbs before sautéing, grilling or broiling.
crêpe
The French word for "pancake," which is exactly what these light, paper-thin creations are. They can be made from plain or sweetened batters with various flours, and used for savory or dessert dishes. Dessert crêpes may be spread with a jam or fruit mixture, rolled or folded and sometimes flamed with brandy or liqueur. Savory crêpes are filled with various meat, cheese or vegetable mixtures sometimes topped with a complementary sauce and served as a first or main course.
Crêpes
Very thin pancakes.
crêpes suzette
Prepared in a chafing dish, this illustrious dessert consists of an orange-butter sauce in which crêpes are warmed, then doused with grand marnier (or other orange liqueur) and ignited to flaming glory.
crème
The French word for "cream."
crème anglaise
The French term for a rich custard sauce that can be served hot or cold over cake, fruit or other dessert.
crème brûlée
The literal translation of this rich dessert is "burnt cream." It describes a chilled, stirred custard that, just before serving, is sprinkled with brown or granulated sugar. The sugar topping is quickly caramelized under a broiler or with a salamander. The caramelized topping becomes brittle, creating a delicious flavor and textural contrast to the smooth, creamy custard beneath.
crème caramel
Also known in France as crème renversée, crème caramel is a custard that has been baked in a caramel-coated mold. When the chilled custard is turned out onto a serving plate it is automatically glazed and sauced with the caramel in the mold. In Italy it's known as crema caramella, and in Spain as flan.
crème d'abricots
A sweet apricot liqueur.
crème d'amande
A pink, almond-flavored liqueur.
crème d'ananas
Pineapple-flavored liqueur.
crème de
A French phrase meaning "cream of," and used to describe an intensely sweet liqueur.
crème de banane
A sweet liqueur with a full, ripe banana flavor.
crème de cacao
A dark, chocolate-flavored liqueur with a hint of vanilla. White crème de cacao is a clear form of the same liqueur.
crème de cassis
Black currant-flavored liqueur; an integral ingredient in kir.
crème de cerise
A French cherry-flavored liqueur.
crème de menthe
Tasting of cool summer mint, this liqueur comes clear (called white) or green-colored.
crème de noyaux
The word noyaux is French for "fruit pits," and this sweet pink liqueur is flavored with the pits of various fruits. The resulting flavor is that of almonds.
crème de rose
An exotically scented liqueur flavored with rose petals, vanilla and various spices.
crème de violette
Dutch liqueur, amethyst in color, perfumed and flavored with essence of violets.
Crème Fraîche
this is cream so thick it is a solid. It can be thinned with large amounts of heavy cream and still remain relatively thick. It is served in France, thinned, with berries, particularly wild strawberries, and with other desserts. A substitute is whipping cream mixed with an equal volume of sour cream and allowed to thicken at room temperature for a few hours.
crème pâtissière
The French term for "pastry cream," a thick, flour-based egg custard used for tarts, cakes and to fill cream puffs, éclairs and napoleons.
crème pralinée
crème Pâtissière flavored with praline powder and used to fill various French pastries.
crabapple
A small, rosy red apple with a rather hard, extremely tart flesh. Crabapples, available during the fall months, are too sour for out-of-hand eating but make outstanding jellies and jams. Spiced and canned whole, they're a delicious accompaniment for meats such as veal and poultry. See also apple.
cracklings
Delicious, crunchy pieces of poultry fat after it has been rendered. Cracklings are sold packaged in some supermarkets and specialty markets. "Cracklin' bread" is cornbread with bits of cracklings scattered throughout.
Cradle
a wicker basket used to decant wine.
cranberry
These shiny scarlet berries are grown in huge, sandy bogs on low, trailing vines. They're also called bounceberries, because ripe ones bounce, and craneberries, after the shape of the shrub's pale pink blossoms, which resemble the heads of the cranes often seen wading through the cranberry bogs. Cranberries grow wild in northern Europe and in the northern climes of North America, where they are also extensively cultivated mainly in Massachusetts, Wisconsin, Washington and Oregon. Harvested between Labor Day and Halloween, the peak market period for cranberries is from October through December. They're usually packaged in 12-ounce plastic bags. Any cranberries that are discolored or shriveled should be discarded. Cranberries can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped, for at least 2 months or frozen up to a year. Besides the traditional cranberry sauce, this fruit also makes delicious chutneys, pies, cobblers and other desserts. Because of their extreme tartness, cranberries are best combined with other fruits, such as apples or dried apricots. Canned cranberry sauce jelled and whole-berry is available year-round, as are frozen cranberries in some markets. Sweetened dried cranberries, which can be used like raisins in baked goods or as snacks, are also available in many supermarkets. Fresh cranberries are very high in vitamin C.
cranberry bean
Also called shell beans or shellouts, these beautiful beans have large, knobby beige pods splotched with red. The beans inside are cream-colored with red streaks and have a delicious nutlike flavor. Cranberry beans must be shelled before cooking, and lose their red color during the cooking process. They're available fresh in the summer and dried throughout the year. See also beans.
crappie
Found mainly in the Great Lakes and Mississippi regions, crappies are large, freshwater sunfish that are about 12 inches long and range from 1 to 2 pounds. There are both black and white crappies; the latter is also called chinquapin. Crappies have lean flesh that is particularly suited to broiling or sautéing. See also fish.
Crayfish
a freshwater crustacean similar to lobster but smaller. The salt water variety is know as spiny lobster.
Cream
a component of milk with a milkfat content of at least 18%; has a slight yellow to ivory color, is more viscous and richer tasting than milk and can be whipped to a foam; rises to the top of raw milk; as a commercial product it may be pasteurized or ultrapasteurized and may be homogenized.
Cream Cheese
a fresh, soft, mild, white cheese made from cow's cream or a mixture of cow's cream and milk (some goat's milk cream cheese are available); used for baking, dips, dressings, confections and spreading on bread products; must contain 33% milkfat and not more than 55% moisture and is available, sometimes flavored, in various-sized blocks or whipped.
Cream of Tartar
Cream of tartar is a fine white powder used mainly used to improve the stability and volume of beaten egg whites. It is also used to give some candies and frosting a creamier consistency. An interesting fact is its origin, cream of tartar is actually derived from crystalline acid deposits on the inside of wine barrels.
Cream Puff
A small, hollow puff made from Choux Pastry (cream-puff pastry) filled with sweetened whipped cream or custard.
cream sauce
A classic Béchamel (white) sauce made with milk and sometimes cream. The sauce's thickness depends on the proportion of flour to liquid. Cream sauces are used as a base for many dishes, such as chicken à la king.
Cream, to
to blend together, as sugar and butter (or shortening), until mixtures takes on a smooth, creamy texture.
Cream, Whipped
cream that has been whipped until it is stiff.
Crema Dania cheese; Crema Danica cheese
Denmark gives us this exquisitely rich gift in the form of small cheese rectangles with a white downy rind and soft ivory interior. Crema Dania is a rich double-cream cheese that, at 72 percent milk fat, almost qualifies as a triple-cream. It's a wonderful cheese for after dinner. See also cheese.
Creme de Cacao
a chocolate-flavored liqueur.
Cremini
Young portobello mushrooms.
cremino
A dark-brown, slightly firmer variation of the everyday cultivated white mushroom. Cremini mushrooms have a slightly fuller flavor than their paler relatives. They have a smooth, rounded cap that ranges in size from 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. The portobello mushroom is simply the fully matured form of this mushroom. The cremino is also referred to as common brown mushroom and Roman mushroom. See also mushroom.
Crenshaw melon; Cranshaw melon
Considered one of the most sweetly succulent members of the melon family, the Crenshaw is a hybrid muskmelon. It has a golden-green, smooth yet lightly ribbed rind and a beautiful salmon-orange flesh. The fragrance of a ripe Crenshaw melon is seductively spicy. These melons are large (5 to 9 pounds) with an oval shape that's rounded at the blossom end and slightly pointed at the stem end. They're available from July to October, with the peak season from August to mid-September. See also melon.
Creole cooking
In the 18th century, the Spaniards governing New Orleans named all residents of European heritage Criollo. The name, which later became Creole, soon began to imply one of refined cultural background with an appreciation for an elegant lifestyle. Today, Creole cookery reflects the full-flavored combination of the best of French, Spanish and African cuisines. Its style, with an emphasis on butter and cream, is more sophisticated than cajun cooking (which uses prodigious amounts of fat). Another difference between the two cuisines is that Creole uses more tomatoes and the Cajuns more spices. Both cuisines rely on the culinary "holy trinity" of chopped green peppers, onions and celery, and make generous use of filé powder. Probably the most famous dish of Creole heritage is gumbo.
Creole cream cheese
This New Orleans specialty has the texture of very thick sour cream and a slightly more tart flavor. It's used as a topping or, especially by southern Louisianans, eaten for breakfast with salt and pepper or sugar and fruit. Creole cream cheese may be carried in some gourmet markets but is generally available outside Louisiana only through mail order.
Creole mustard
A specialty of Louisiana's German Creoles made from vinegar-marinated brown mustard seeds with a hint of horseradish. This hot, spicy mustard is available in gourmet markets or the gourmet section of some supermarkets.
Crescenza cheese
A rich, creamy, fresh cheese, also known as Crescenza Stracchino, that's widely made in Italy's regions of Lombardy, Piedmont and Veneto. Its texture and flavor are similiar to that of a mild cream cheese, and it becomes very soft and spreadable at room temperature. Crescenza is made from uncooked cow's milk and is sometimes blended with herbs. It doesn't age well and, although not widely imported, can be found in some specialty cheese shops. See also cheese.
crespelle
Thin Italian pancakes that are either stacked with different fillings between the layers or filled and rolled like crêpes.
cress
There are many different varieties of this mustard-family plant, the most popular of which is watercress. Other types include peppergrass (also called curly cress ), broadleaf cress (also called cressida ) and garden cress. All cress varieties share a peppery tang. Choose cress with dark green leaves and no sign of yellowing. Refrigerate in a plastic bag (or stems-down in a glass of water covered with a plastic bag) for up to 5 days. Cress is used in salads, sandwiches, soups and as a garnish.
creste di galli
Italian for "cockscombs," culinarily describing a medium macaroni with a ruffled crest on the outside edge.
Crimp
to seal pastry edges together by pinching.
crisp
v. To refresh vegetables such as celery and carrots by soaking them in ice water until they once again become crisp. Other foods, such as crackers that have lost their snap, may be heated in a moderate oven until their crispness returns.
crisphead lettuce
One of two varieties of head lettuce (the other being butterhead). It's commonly known as iceberg, which, in truth, is a variety of crisphead. Other varieties include Great Lakes, Imperial, Vanguard and Western. Crisphead lettuce comes in large, round, tightly packed heads of pale green leaves. Though crisp, succulent and wilt-resistant, all crispheads have a rather neutral flavor. Choose those that are heavy for their size with no signs of browning at the edges. See also lettuce.
criterion apple
This slightly tart apple has a bright red skin with green highlights. It's good for baking as well as out-of-hand eating. See also apple.
croûte
French for "crust," croûte generally describes a thick, hollowed-out slice of bread (usually toasted) that is filled with food. It can also refer to a pastry case used for the same purpose. Additionally, the word croûte describes simply a slice of bread either toasted or fried. For example, croûte landaise is fried bread with foie gras topped with a cheese sauce. En croûte describes a food (usually partially cooked) that is wrapped in pastry and baked.
Croissant
French breakfast bread pastry, delicate, flaky and rich. The dough s yeast-raised, then rolled out, spread with soft butter, folded into thirds, rolled out again and buttered, then rolled out yet again, to make a layered puff pastry.
Crookneck Squash
a summer squash with a long slender neck and bulbous body, pale to deep yellow skin with a smooth to bumpy texture, creamy yellow flesh and mild, delicate flavor; also known as yellow squash.
croquant
French for "crispy" or "crunchy."
croquembouche
French for "crisp in mouth," this elaborate dessert is classically made with profiteroles (tiny, custard-filled cream puffs), coated with caramel and stacked into a tall pyramid shape. As the caramel hardens, it becomes crisp. For added glamour, the croquembouche can be wreathed or draped with spun sugar.
Croquette
minced food, shaped like a ball, patty, cone, or log, bound with a heavy sauce, breaded, and fried.
Crostini
The Italian word for "little toasts" (referring to bread, not grappa).
croustade
An edible container used to hold a thick stew, creamed meat or vegetable mixture, puree and so on. A croustade can be made from pastry, a hollowed-out bread loaf or pureed potatoes or pasta that have been shaped to form a casing for food. Before filling it with food, the container is deep-fried or toasted until golden-brown and crisp. Small filled croustades can be served as an appetizer or first course.
crouton
A small piece or cube of bread that has been browned, either by sautéing or baking. Croutons are used to garnish soups, salads and other dishes. They're available packaged either plain or seasoned with herbs, cheese, garlic and so on.
Croutons
cubes of bread, toasted or fried, served with soups or salads.
crown roast
This special-occasion roast is formed from the rib section of lamb loin by tying it into a circle, ribs up. After it's cooked, the tips of the bones are often decorated with paper frills. The roast's hollow center section is usually filled with mixed vegetables or other stuffing.
cruciferous vegetables
The scientific name for a group of vegetables that research has proven may provide protection against certain cancers. Cruciferous vegetables contain antioxidants (beta carotene and the compound sulforaphane). These vegetables, which are all high in fiber, vitamins and minerals, are: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, chard, kale, mustard greens, rutabagas and turnips.
Crudités
French word for an American cocktail appetizer of raw vegetables served with a dip.
Cruller
a doughnut of twisted shape, very light in texture.
Crumb
to moisten food with an adhesive liquid such as milk, beaten egg or batter, then roll it in bread or cracker crumbs.
Crumble
to break food into smaller pieces, usually by hand.
Crumpet
the original English muffin.
crush
To reduce a food to its finest form, such as crumbs, paste or powder. Crushing is often accomplished with a mortar and pestle, or with a rolling pin.
crust
This multipurpose word has many meanings, including the hardened outer layer of a cooked food such as bread; a thin layer of pastry covering a pie, pâté, etc.; and the sediment of organic salts deposited in a bottle of aged red wine.
Crystalize
to preserve fruit, fondant, and edible flowers with a boiled sugar.
Cuba libre
An iced cocktail made with rum, lime juice and cola.
Cube
to cut food into small cube shapes, larger than diced, usually about 1/2 inch.
Cube Steak
meat tenderized by scoring the surface with a pattern of squares or cubes.
Cucumber
the edible fleshy fruit of several varieties of a creeping plant (Cucumis sativus); most have a dark green skin and creamy white to pale green flesh; generally divided into two categories: pickling and slicing.
cuisine
A French term pertaining to a specific style of cooking (as in Chinese cuisine), or a country's food in general. Haute cuisine refers to food prepared in a gourmet or elaborate manner.
cuisine bourgeoise
French for "middle-class cooking," referring to plain but good, down-to-earth cooking.
Cuisine maigre
French for "meatless, lean or lowfat cooking." Strict vegetarian cooking is referred to as cuisine vegetarienne.
Cuisine minceur
Developed by French chef Michel Guérard in the 1970s, cuisine minceur is light-style, healthful cooking that avoids fat and cream.
Cuitlacoche
(also spelled huitlacoche) is a fungus which grows naturally on ears of corn (Ustilago maydis). The fungus is harvested and treated as a delicacy. The earthy and somewhat smoky fungus is used to flavor quesadillas, tamales, soups and other specialty dishes.
Cumberland Sauce
A favorite with the English, this full-flavored sauce is a combination of red currant jelly, port, orange and lemon zests, mustard and seasonings. It's excellent served with venison, duck and other game.
Cumin
a spice that is the dried fruit (seed) of a plant in the parsley family (Cuminum cyminum), native to the Middle East and North Africa; the small crescent-shaped seeds have a powerful, earthy, nutty flavor and aroma and are available whole or ground in three colors (amber, white and black); used in Indian, Middle Eastern and Mexican cuisines.
Cup
a unit of measure in the U.S. system equal to 8 fluid ounces.
Cupcake
a small individual-sized cake baked in a mold such as a muffin pan, usually frosted and decorated.
Curaçao
An orange-flavored liqueur made from the dried peel of bitter oranges found on the Caribbean island of Curaçao.
Curacao
an orange-flavored liqueur.
Curd
a solid milk product that develops as milk sours and separates into solids (curd) and liquid (whey). In cheese-making, it is induced by the addition of acid or tennet.
Curdle
To coagulate, or separate into curds and whey. Soured milk curdles, as do some egg- and milk-based sauces when exposed to prolonged or high heat. Acids such as lemon juice also cause curdling in some mixtures.
Cure
To treat food (such as meat, cheese or fish) by one of several methods in order to preserve it. Smoke-curing is generally done in one of two ways. The cold-smoking method (which can take up to a month, depending on the food) smokes the food at between 70° to 90°F. Hot-smoking partially or totally cooks the food by treating it at temperatures ranging from 100° to 190°F. Pickled foods are soaked in variously flavored acid-based brines. Corned products (such as corned beef) have also been soaked in brine usually one made with water, salt and various seasonings. Salt-cured foods have been dried and packed in salt preparations. Cheese curing can be done by several methods, including injecting or spraying the cheese with specific bacteria or by wrapping the cheese in various flavored materials. Some of the more common cured foods are smoked meats, pickled herring and salted fish.
Curing
to preserve meat, fish, or cheese with salt or by drying and or smoking.
Currant
There are two distinctly different fruits called currant. 1. The first resembling a tiny, dark raisin is the seedless, dried zante grape. Its name comes from its place of origin Corinth, Greece. In cooking, this type of currant (like raisins) is used mainly in baked goods. 2. The second type of currant is a tiny berry related to the gooseberry. There are black, red and white currants. The black ones are generally used for preserves, syrups and liqueurs (such as cassis), while the red and white berries are good for out-of-hand eating and such preparations as the famous French preserve bar-le-duc and (using the red currants) cumberland sauce. Fresh currants are in season June through August. Choose those that are plump and without hulls. They can be refrigerated, tightly covered, up to 4 days. Currants are delicious in jams, jellies, sauces and simply served with sugar and cream.
Curry
From the southern Indian word kari, meaning "sauce," comes this catch-all term that is used to refer to any number of hot, spicy, gravy-based dishes of East Indian origin. curry powder is an integral ingredient in all curries.
Curry Leaf
From a plant native to southern Asia, this fragrant herb looks like a small, shiny lemon leaf and has a pungent curry fragrance. Its flavor is essential in a substantial percentage of East Indian fare. Most Indian markets sell fresh curry leaves. Choose those that are bright green, with no sign of yellowing or wilting. They can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 weeks. Packaged, dried curry leaves also available in Indian markets can be substituted for fresh but lack their snappy flavor.
Curry Paste
Available in East Indian and Asian markets and the gourmet section of some supermarkets, curry paste is a blend of ghee (clarified butter), curry powder, vinegar and other seasonings. It's used in lieu of curry powder for many curried dishes.
Curry Powder
an American or European blend of spices associated with Indian cuisines, the flavor and color vary depending on the exact blend; typical ingredients include black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, ginger, mace and turmeric, with cardamom, tamarind, fennel seeds fenugreek and /or chile powder sometimes added.
Cushaw
Any of several types of crookneck squash, popular in cajun and creole cooking. See also squash.
Cusk
Related to the cod, this large saltwater fish has a firm, lean flesh. It ranges from 1 1/2 to 5 pounds and can be purchased whole or in fillets. Cusk can be prepared in a variety of ways including baking, broiling, poaching and sautéing. See also fish.
Custard
a cooked or baked mixture mainly of eggs and milk. It may be sweetened to use as a dessert or flavored with cheese, fish, etc., as an entrée.
Cut
to divide a food into smaller portions, usually with a knife or scissors.
cut in
To mix a solid, cold fat (such as butter or shortening) with dry ingredients (such as a flour mixture) until the combination is in the form of small particles. This technique can be achieved by using a pastry blender, two knives, a fork or fingers (which must be cool so as not to melt the fat). A food processor fitted with a metal blade does an excellent job of cutting fat into dry ingredients, providing the mixture is not overworked into a paste.
Cut in, to
to incorporate by cutting or chopping motions, as in cutting shortening into flour for pastry.
Cutlet
A small piece of meat cut from the leg or rib of veal, a chicken breast, or a croquette mixture made into the shape of a cutlet.
cutting board
A "board," which may be wood or plastic (acrylic), used for cutting up foods such as meat and vegetables. Though it has long been thought that plastic boards were safer than wooden with respect to food-poisoning bacteria, that theory has now been discredited. Tests done by two University of Wisconsin microbiologists proved that wooden boards are so inhospitable to bacterial contaminants (such as those from poultry juices) that bacteria actually disappears from wooden surfaces within minutes. Conversely, on plastic boards bacteria multiplies rapidly at room temperature and, even after washing, bacteria can accumulate in knife cuts. The best solution: have one board for vegetables and another (preferably wood) for meats. Always use hot water and detergent to thoroughly scrub a cutting board after each use. Plastic boards may be cleaned in the dishwasher.
déjeuner
The French word for "lunch."
dab
Any of several varieties of flounder, the dab is a small flatfish with a sweet, lean, firm flesh. It can be prepared in any manner suitable for flounder. See also fish; plaice.
dacquoise
A dessert of disc-shaped, nut-flavored meringues stacked and filled with sweetened whipped cream or buttercream. It's served chilled, often with fruit. See also marjolaine.
Dagwood sandwich
Named after Dagwood Bumstead, a character in the "Blondie" comic strip, this extremely thick sandwich is piled high with a variety of meats, cheeses, condiments and lettuce.
Daikon
a Japanese radish.
daiquiri
A cocktail made with rum, lime juice and sugar. Some daiquiris are made with fruit, the mixture being pureed in a blender. Frozen daiquiris are made either with crushed ice or frozen fruit chunks, all processed until smooth in a blender.
daizu
Japanese term for "dried soybeans."
dal; dhal, dhall
A spicy dish made with lentils (or other pulses), tomatoes, onions and various seasonings. Dal is often pureed and served with curried dishes. In India, the term "dal" refers to any of almost 60 varieties of dried pulses, including peas, mung beans and lentils.
Damson
a type of plum best used in cooking or for jams and jellies.
damson plum
This small, oval-shaped plum has an indigo skin and yellow-green flesh. Because the damson is extremely tart, it makes excellent pies and jams. See also plum.
Danablu cheese
Also called Danish blue cheese, this rich cow's-milk cheese is milder and less complex than roquefort, but has a zest all its own. Known as one of the world's best blues, the versatile, semisoft Danablu can be sliced, spread and crumbled with equal ease. It's excellent with fruit, dark breads and red wines. See also blue cheese; cheese.
Danbo cheese
A Swiss-style cheese from Denmark with a red or yellow wax rind and pale yellow interior dotted with holes. Danbo has a firm texture and mildly sweet, nutlike flavor. Regular Danbo has about 45 percent milk fat; the lowfat variety contains only 20 percent fat. See also cheese.
dandelion greens
The name dandelion comes from the French dent de lion, meaning "lion's tooth," a reference to the jagged-edged leaves of this noteworthy weed that grows both wild and cultivated. The bright green leaves have a slightly bitter, tangy flavor that adds interest to salads. They can also be cooked like spinach. The roots can be eaten as vegetables or roasted and ground to make root "coffee." Though they're available until winter in some states, the best, most tender dandelion greens are found in early spring, before the plant begins to flower. Look for bright-green, tender-crisp leaves; avoid those with yellowed or wilted tips. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, up to 5 days. Wash thoroughly before using. Dandelion greens are an excellent source of vitamin A, iron and calcium.
Danish pastry
This butter-rich pastry begins as a yeast dough that is rolled out, dotted with butter, then folded and rolled again several times, as for puff pastry. The dough may be lightly sweetened and is usually flavored with vanilla or cardamom. Baked Danish pastries (often referred to simply as "Danish") contain a variety of fillings including fruit, cream cheese, almond paste and spiced nuts.
dariole
A French term referring to a small, cylindrical mold, as well as to the dessert baked in it. Classically, the dessert is made by lining the mold with puff pastry, filling it with an almond cream and baking until golden brown. Today there are also savory darioles, usually made with vegetable custards.
Darjeeling tea
This strong, full-bodied black tea comes from India's province of Darjeeling, in the foothills of the Himalayas. Darjeeling tea leaves are grown at about 7,000 feet and are considered one of India's finest. See also tea.
Dash
a seasoning measure indicating a scant 1/8 teaspoon or less.
Dashi
a clear fish stock which is the basis of Japanese dishes.
Date
the fruit of a palm tree (phoenix dactylifera) native to the Middle East and Mediterranean region; most varieties are long and ovoid (some are more spherical) with a thin papery skin that is green, becoming yellow, golden brown, black or mahogany red when ripe, extremely sweet flesh with a light brown color, chewy texture and a single, long, narrow seed; eaten fresh or dried.
dau miu
The Cantonese name for "pea shoots," the thin, delicately crisp tendrils (or vines), plus the uppermost leaves, of the green pea plant. Dau miu has a flavor that's a cross between peas and spinach, with a soupçon of watercress. It's available in some Chinese markets in the spring. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for no more than a day or two pea shoots are best used the day of purchase. Wash just before using. Dau miu can be used fresh in salads, or added to a stir-fry at the last minute.
Daube
A classic French dish made with beef, red wine and vegetables, braised for a number of hours.
Daubiere
a cooking pot with a tight-fitting lid used for braising.
Dauphine
Croquettes made by combining potato puree with pastry dough, forming the mixture into balls and then rolling them in bread crumbs and deep-fried.
Decant
to pour a liquid, generally wine, from one container to another. Red wine is decanted to remove the sediment deposited during the aging process.
decanter
A narrow-necked, stoppered container usually made of glass used to hold wine, liqueur or other spirits.
deep-dish
A term usually referring to a sweet or savory pie made either in a deep pie dish or shallow casserole, and having only a top crust.
Deep-Fat-Frying
to cook in hot fat (about 360 degrees) that is deep enough for food to float - usually a minimum of 3 inches..
deep-fry
To cook food in hot fat deep enough to completely cover the item being fried. The oil or fat used for deep-frying should have a high smoke point (the point to which it can be heated without smoking). For that reason, butter and margarine are not good candidates for frying; shortening, lard and most oils are. The temperature of the fat is all-important and can mean the difference between success and disaster. Fat at the right temperature will produce a crisp exterior and succulent interior. If it's not hot enough, food will absorb fat and be greasy; too hot, and it will burn. An average fat temperature for deep-frying is 375°F, but recipes differ according to the characteristics of each food. To avoid ruined food, a special deep-fat thermometer should be used. Most thermometers used for deep-fat are dual-purpose and also used as candy thermometers. Though special deep-fat fryers fitted with wire baskets are available, food can be deep-fried in any large, heavy pot spacious enough to fry it without crowding. To allow for bubbling up and splattering, the container should be filled no more than halfway full with oil. Fat or oil used for deep-frying may be reused. Let it cool, then strain it through cheesecloth and funnel into a bottle or other tightly sealed container before refrigerating.
Deglaze
to pour hot stock, wine, or water on the degreased sediment left in the roasting or frying pan in which meat has cooked. The purpose of deglazing is to dissolve the caramelized juices of meats dropped during the cooking process. This process is the secret of rich gravies, and a vital step in making good casseroles and soups.
Degrease
to skim the fat from the top of a liquid such as a sauce or stock.
dehydrate
To remove the natural moisture from food by slowly drying it. Considered the original form of food preservation, dehydration prevents moisture spoilage such as mold or fermentation. Food can be dehydrated manually by placing thin slices on racks and allowing them to dry assisted only by sun or air. It can also be done with an electric dehydrator, which resembles a large three-sided toaster oven with anywhere from 5 to 10 wire-grid racks. The food placed on these racks dries with the aid of fan-circulated air. Dried foods are convenient to store and transport because of their greatly reduced volume and weight.
Dehydration
a process that removes the water content from food.
Delaware grape
Grown in the eastern United States, this small, pale red grape has a tender skin and juicy, sweet flesh. It's used as a table grape, as well as for some wines. See also grape.
delicata squash
Also called sweet potato squash, the delicata squash has a pale yellow skin with medium green striations. Inside, the succulent yellow flesh tastes like a cross between sweet potatoes and butternut squash. The oblong delicata can range from 5 to 9 inches in length and 1 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter. It's in season from late summer through late fall. Choose squash that are heavy for their size; avoid those with soft spots. Delicata squash can be stored up to 3 weeks at an average room temperature. As with other winter squash, the delicata is best baked or steamed. It's a good source of potassium, iron and vitamins A and C. See also squash.
Delmonico potatoes
Named after the 19th-century New York restaurant of the same name whose owner-chef created this dish. It consists of cooked and creamed diced (or mashed) potatoes topped with grated cheese and buttered bread crumbs, then baked until golden brown.
Delmonico steak
Another specialty made famous at Delmonico's (see delmonico potatoes), this tender, flavorful steak is a boneless beef cut from the short loin. Depending on the region, butcher and so on. It's also referred to as a new york steak. The Delmonico steak can be broiled, grilled or fried. See also beef.
Demi-glace
A rich brown reduction of meat stock, Madeira or sherry, and other ingredients. Used as a base for many other sauces.
demi-sec
A French term meaning "half dry" used to describe wine that is sweet (up to 5 percent sugar).
demitasse
Literally French for "half cup," the term "demitasse" can refer to either a tiny coffee cup or the very strong black coffee served in the cup.
Denver sandwich
Also called a Western sandwich, this classic consists of an egg scrambled with chopped cured meat, onion and green pepper, sandwiched with two slices of bread and garnished with lettuce.
Derby cheese; Derbyshire cheese
This mild, semifirm, cow's-milk cheese is similar to cheddar. It has a pale, golden orange interior with a natural or waxed rind. Sage Derby is generously flavored with the herb, which also lends color interest. Both are good for snack or sandwich cheese. See also cheese.
dessert wine
Any of a wide variety of sweet wines sometimes fortified with brandy, all of which are compatible with dessert. Some of the more popular dessert wines are late harvest riesling, madeira, port, sauternes, sherry and some sparkling wines, such as asti spumante.
devil
To combine a food with various hot or spicy seasonings such as red pepper, mustard or tabasco sauce, thereby creating a "deviled" dish.
devil's food
A dark, dense baked chocolate item (such as a cake or cookie). On the opposite end of the spectrum is the airy, white angel food cake.
Devonshire cheese
A soft, creamy-rich cheese made by draining all the whey from Devonshire cream, also known as clotted cream. See also cheese.
dewberry
Any of several varieties of the trailing-vine form of the blackberry.
dextrose
Also called corn sugar and grape sugar, dextrose is a naturally occurring form of glucose.
diable sauce; à la diable
1. A basic brown sauce with the addition of wine, vinegar, shallots and red or black pepper. It's usually served with broiled meat or poultry. 2. à la diable refers to a French method of preparing poultry by grilling a split bird, which is then sprinkled with bread crumbs and broiled until brown. The bird is served with diable sauce.
Dice
A culinary knife cut in which the food item is cut into small (¼ inch) blocks or dice. This may be done for aesthetic reasons or to create uniformly sized pieces to ensure even cooking. Dicing allows for distribution of flavor and texture throughout the dish, as well as a somewhat quicker cooking time.
digestif
A French term for a spirited drink (such as brandy or cognac) taken after dining as an aid to digestion. The term digestif is now widely used in English parlance as well.
digestive enzymes
Natural food enzymes that, when taken with gassy foods, help reduce flatulence sometimes even stopping it before it begins. Gas-producing foods like beans, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, grains and onions cause trouble because they contain hard- or impossible-to-digest complex sugars (see carbohydrate) that ferment in the large intestine. Digestive enzymes help break down these complex sugars into simple sugars that are more easily digestible. They generally come in tablet form and are commonly available in health-food stores. Some, like the popular Beano, also come in a liquid form and can be found in supermarkets and drugstores.
Dijon mustard
Hailing originally from Dijon, France, this pale, grayish-yellow mustard is known for its clean, sharp flavor, which can range from mild to hot. Dijon mustard is made from brown or black mustard seeds, white wine, unfermented grape juice (must) and various seasonings. The best-known maker of Dijon mustard is the house of Poupon, particularly famous in the United States for their Grey Poupon mustard. See also mustard.
dill
Thought by 1st-century Romans to be a good luck symbol, dill has been around for thousands of years. This annual herb grows up to a height of about 3 feet and has feathery green leaves called dill weed, marketed in both fresh and dried forms. The distinctive flavor of fresh dill weed in no way translates to its dried form. Fresh dill does, however, quickly lose its fragrance during heating, so should be added toward the end of the cooking time. Dill weed is used to flavor many dishes such as salads, vegetables, meats and sauces. The tan, flat dill seed is actually the dried fruit of the herb. Heating brings out the flavor of dill seed, which is stronger and more pungent than that of the leaves. It's most often used in the United States for the brine in which dill pickles are cured. See also herbs; herb and spice chart; A field guide to herbs
dilute
To reduce a mixture's strength by adding liquid (usually water).
dim sum; dem sum
Cantonese for "heart's delight," dim sum includes a variety of small, mouth-watering dishes such as steamed or fried dumplings, fish balls, steamed buns and Chinese pastries. Dim sum standard fare in tea houses can be enjoyed any time of the day. Unlike most dining establishments, servers in a dim sum eatery do not take orders, per se. Instead, they walk among the tables with carts or trays of kitchen-fresh food. Diners simply point to the item they want, which is served on small plates or in baskets. Each item usually has a set price. At the end of the meal, the check is tallied by counting the dishes on the table. Some dim sum restaurants add the price of each dish to a check that remains on the table, clearing dishes as they are emptied.
diples
A deep-fried, Greek pastry made from thin strips of sweet dough formed into bows or circles. Diples are usually coated with honey, cinnamon and nuts.
diplomat pudding
This cold, molded dessert consists of alternating layers of liqueur-soaked ladyfingers (or sponge cake), jam, chopped candied fruit and custard (sometimes combined with whipped cream). Diplomat pudding is usually garnished with whipped-cream rosettes and candied fruit.
dirty rice
A Cajun specialty of cooked rice combined with ground chicken or turkey livers and gizzards, onions, chicken broth, beef fat drippings, green pepper and garlic. The name comes from the fact that the ground giblets give the rice a "dirty" look... but delicious flavor.
disjoint
To separate meat at the joint, such as cutting the chicken leg from the thigh.
dissolve
To incorporate a dry ingredient (such as sugar, salt, yeast or gelatin) into a liquid so thoroughly that no grains of the dry ingredient are evident, either by touch or sight.
distillation
The process of separating the components in a liquid by heating it to the point of vaporization, then cooling the mixture so it condenses into a purified and/or concentrated form. In the making of liquor, this distilled product is called "neutral spirits" because it has little flavor, color or aroma.
distilled water
Water from which all minerals and other impurities have been removed by the process of distillation.
ditali; ditalini
Tiny, very short tubes of macaroni. See also pasta.
divinity
A fluffy yet creamy candy made with granulated sugar, corn syrup and stiffly beaten egg whites. Nuts, chocolate, coconut or various other flavorings are often added to the basic mixture. When brown sugar is substituted for granulated sugar, the candy is called seafoam.
Dobos torte
Created by Austrian pastry chef Josef Dobos, this rich torte is made by stacking 9 extra-thin layers of Génoise (or sponge cake) spread with chocolate buttercream. The top is covered with a hard caramel glaze.
dolce
Italian for "sweet," referring culinarily to desserts, candy or other sweets.
Dolcelatte cheese
Also called Gorgonzola dolce, this soft, mild, blue-veined cheese can be served as either an appetizer or dessert. It's difficult to find but is sometimes available in specialty cheese shops. See also cheese.
dollop
A small glob of soft food, such as whipped cream or mashed potatoes. When referring to a liquid, dollop refers to a dash or "splash" of soda water, water and so on.
dolma
From the Arabic word for "something stuffed," referring to grape leaves, vegetables or fruits stuffed with a savory, well-seasoned filling. Among the most popular dolmades are grape leaves stuffed with a filling of ground lamb, rice, onion, currants, pine nuts and various seasonings. Other foods used as casings include squash, eggplant, sweet peppers, cabbage leaves, quinces and apples. Dolmades are usually braised or baked. They may be eaten hot, cold or at room temperature, and served as an appetizer or entrée.
donburi
1. A Japanese dish of boiled riced topped with meat, fish, eggs and/or vegetables and broth. It can be served with spicy condiments. Sometimes this dish is called simply don or don may be added as a suffix to indicate a donburi dish. Donburi is considered one of Japan's "fast foods" and there are chains of donburi restaurants specializing in quick meals. 2. The name of the large deep-footed bowl in which the previously mentioned dish is served.
dosage
A mixture of sugar and spirits (often brandy) that is added to champagne and other sparkling wine immediately prior to final bottling. The percentage of sugar in the syrup determines the degree of sweetness in the final wine.
dot
To scatter small bits (dots) of an ingredient (usually butter) over another food or mixture. Distributing bits of butter over the fruit in an apple pie, for example, allows the butter to melt evenly over the pie as it bakes.
double boiler
A double-pan arrangement whereby two pots are formed to fit together, with one sitting partway inside the other. A single lid fits both pans. The lower pot is used to hold simmering water, which gently heats the mixture in the upper pot. Double boilers are used to warm or cook heat-sensitive food such as custards, delicate sauces and chocolate.
double-cream cheeses; double crème
Any of various cow's-milk cheeses that have been enriched with cream so that they contain a minimum of 60 percent milk fat. Triple-cream cheeses must have at least 75 percent milk fat. Both double- and triple-creams can be fresh or ripened. They share the distinction of being seductively soft and creamy in texture with a mild, slightly sweet flavor. boursin is an example of a triple-cream cheese, whereas crema dania is a double-cream. Because of their natural sweetness, these cheeses are perfect when served with fruit for dessert. See also cheese.
dough
A mixture of flour, liquid and other ingredients (often including a leavening) that's stiff but pliable enough to work with the hands. Unlike a batter, dough is too stiff to pour.
doughnut; donut
A small, typically ring-shaped pastry that is usually leavened with yeast or baking powder, and which can be baked but is generally fried. The traditional doughnut shape is formed by using a special doughnut cutter that cuts out the center hole in the dough. It can also be made with two biscuit cutters, large and small (for the hole). Fried doughnut holes are favorites with children. There are two main styles of doughnuts. Raised doughnuts are leavened with yeast and allowed to rise at least once before being fried. Besides the traditional ring-shape, raised doughnuts also come in squares and twists. Additionally, the dough is used to make oblong and round jelly-filled doughnuts commonly called jelly doughnuts. Cake doughnuts receive their leavening power from baking powder and are chilled before frying to prevent the dough from absorbing too much oil in the process. The dough for cake doughnuts is often flavored with spices, orange or lemon zest or chocolate. Crullers are made from cake-doughnut dough. They're formed by twisting two (about 5-inch) strips of dough together before frying. Both types are usually either dusted with granulated sugar (cake doughnuts often with confectioners' sugar) or topped with a flavored glaze (such as chocolate or butterscotch). French doughnuts, though not as readily available as the other two types, are made with choux pastry (cream-puff pastry dough). They're very tender and light.
doux
French for "sweet." On a champagne label, the term doux means the wine is very sweet over 5 percent sugar.
draft beer
Beer served straight from the keg by means of a spigot. Unlike the bottled or canned varieties, draft beer hasn't been subjected to the pasteurization process. Also spelled draught.
dragée
1. Tiny, round, hard candies used for decorating cakes, cookies and other baked goods. Dragées come in a variety of sizes (from pinhead to 1/4-inch) and colors, including silver. 2. Almonds with a hard sugar coating.
drain
To pour off a liquid or fat from food, often with the use of a colander. "Drain" can also mean to blot greasy food on paper towels.
Drambuie
A golden, Scotch-based liqueur sweetened with heather honey and flavored with herbs.
draw
1. In cooking, to eviscerate; to remove the entrails, as from poultry or fish. 2. To clarify a mixture, as in drawn butter.
dredge
To lightly coat food to be fried, as with flour, cornmeal or bread crumbs. This coating helps brown the food. Chicken, for example, might be dredged with flour before frying.
dress
1. To prepare game, fowl, fish and so forth for cooking by plucking, scaling, eviscerating, and so on. 2. To "dress a salad" simply means adding a dressing.
dressing
1. A sauce usually cold used to coat or top salads and some cold vegetable, fish and meat dishes. 2. A mixture used to stuff poultry, fish, meat and some vegetables. It can be cooked separately or in the food in which it is stuffed. Dressings (also called stuffings ) are usually well seasoned and based on bread crumbs or cubes though rice, potatoes and other foods are also used.
dried fruit
Fruit from which the majority of the moisture has been dehydrated. The final moisture content of dried fruit usually ranges from 15 to 25 percent. Drying fruit greatly concentrates both sweetness and flavor, and the taste is much changed, as from grape to raisin or from plum to prune. Fruit can be dried in the sun or by machine. Machine-drying usually takes no more than 24 hours. Sun-drying can take three to four times as long, causing additional loss of nutrients through heat and time. Vitamins A and C are the most susceptible to depletion during the drying process, but a wealth of other vitamins and minerals remains in great force. Before drying, fruits are often sprayed with sulfur dioxide gas, which helps preserve the fruit's natural color and nutrients. Though decried by some, clinical research has shown no negative effects from sulfur intake. Imported dried fruit, however, is fumigated with chemical pesticides, which have been proven toxic to humans. Dried fruit is available year-round and comes in five basic designations: extra fancy, fancy, extra choice, choice and standard. These grades are based on size, color, condition and moisture content. Most dried fruit can be stored at room temperature, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to a year. Though dried fruits can be stored longer and take less space, they contain 4 to 5 times the calories by weight of fresh fruit. Dried fruit can be used as is or reconstituted in water. It may be eaten out of hand or put to a variety of uses such as in baked goods, fruit compotes, stuffings, conserves and so on. See also prunes; raisins.
drippings
The melted fat and juices that gather in the bottom of a pan in which meat or other food is cooked. Drippings are used as a base for gravies and sauces and in which to cook other foods (such as yorkshire pudding).
drizzle
To slowly pour a liquid mixture in a very fine stream over food (such as a sweet glaze over cake or bread, or melted butter over food before baking).
drop cookie
A cookie made by dropping spoonfuls of dough onto a baking sheet. See also cookie.
drum
Any of a large and diverse family of fish, so named for the odd drumming or deep croaking noise it makes, particularly during the mating season. Drum, also known as croaker, is a firm, lowfat fish found in temperate waters. Croakers, averaging 1 pound, are the small fry of the drum family and are usually sold whole. However, many drum can weigh up to 30 pounds and are generally sold in fillets and steaks. Drum can be baked, broiled or fried. Other members of the drum family include Atlantic and black croaker, black drum, California corbina, hardhead, kingfish, redfish (red drum), kingfish, spot, weakfish and white seabass. See also fish.
drupe fruit
Any thin-skinned fruit with a succulent, soft flesh and hard stone or seed in the middle. apricots, cherries, peaches and plums are all classified as drupe fruits.
dry
adj. A term used to describe a wine or other beverage that isn't sweet. In wines, dry is also referred to as sec (see listing ). dry v. see dehydrate
dry ice
Dry ice is really crystallized carbon dioxide. It doesn't produce water when it melts and is generally used only for long-term refrigeration. Touching dry ice with bare hands can result in burns.
dry milk
Milk from which almost all the moisture has been removed. Dry (also called powdered) milk is less expensive and easier to store than fresh milk but has a disadvantage in that it never tastes quite like the real thing. It comes in three basic forms whole milk, nonfat milk and buttermilk. Because of its milk fat content, dry whole milk must be refrigerated. Nonfat dry milk is available in regular and instant forms; the former tastes slightly better, while the latter mixes more easily. Powdered buttermilk is simply desiccated buttermilk and is generally used for baking. Until opened, dry nonfat milk and buttermilk can be kept in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months. Refrigerating opened packages will help retain their freshness. A usda "U.S. Extra Grade" shield on the label signifies that the product meets exacting government quality standards. Dry milks may or may not be fortified with vitamins A and D.
Dubarry, à la; du Barry
Said to have been named after the Comtesse du Barry, mistress of Louis xv, this term denotes a dish using cauliflower particularly cooked cauliflower served with cheese sauce. Crème Dubarry is a creamy cauliflower soup.
Dubonnet
A bittersweet, fortified wine-based apéritif flavored with herbs and quinine. Dubonnet comes in red and white versions, the white being the drier (see dry) of the two.
duchess potatoes
Cooked potatoes that are pureed with egg yolks and butter, then formed into small shapes or piped as a garnish and baked until golden brown. The term à la duchesse refers to dishes garnished with duchess potatoes.
duck press
A kitchen device used to extract the juices from a cooked duck carcass. This step is necessary for some gourmet duck recipes, specifically pressed duck.
duck; duckling
Any of many species of wild or domestic web-footed birds that live in or near water. As with so many things culinary, the Chinese are credited with being the first to raise ducks for food. Today's domestic ducks are all descendants of either of two species the mallard or the muscovy duck. Comprising about half the domesticated ducks in the United States are the white-feathered, full-breasted Long Island ducks, known for their dark, succulent flesh. These direct descendents of the Peking duck (a variety of mallard) are all the progeny of three ducks and a drake brought from Peking on a clipper ship in 1873. Besides Long Island, the locations most widely known for the cultivation of superior ducks are Peking (now known as Beijing) and Rouen, France. Since most ducks are marketed while still quite young and tender, the words "duck" and "duckling" are interchangeable. Broilers and fryers are less than 8 weeks old, roasters no more than 16 weeks old. Domestic ducks can weigh between 3 and 5 1/2 pounds; the older ducks are generally larger. Fresh duck is available from late spring through early winter, but generally only in regions where ducks are raised. Almost 90 percent of ducks that reach market are frozen and available year-round. The government grades duck quality with usda classifications A, B and C. The highest grade is A, and is usually what is found in markets. Grade B ducks are less meaty and well finished; grade C ducks are usually used for commercial purposes. The grade stamp can be found within a shield on the package wrapping or sometimes on a tag attached to the bird's wing. When buying fresh duck, choose one with a broad, fairly plump breast; the skin should be elastic, not saggy. For frozen birds, make sure the packaging is tight and unbroken. Fresh duck can be stored, loosely covered, in the coldest section of the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. Remove any giblets from the body cavity and store separately. Frozen duck should be thawed in the refrigerator; it can take from 24 to 36 hours, depending on the size of the bird. Do not refreeze duck once it's been thawed. Duck can be prepared in a variety of manners including roasting, braising, broiling, and so on. Though higher in fat than other domestic birds, it is a good source of protein and iron. For information about wild duck, see game birds.
duff
A steamed (or boiled) pudding made with flour, eggs, dried fruit and spices, and once widely popular in England and Scotland. The name is a Scottish dialectal variation of the word dough, which was apparently pronounced as rough.
dukka; dukkah
An Egyptian spice blend comprising toasted nuts and seeds, the combination of which varies depending on the cook. Dukka usually has hazelnuts or chickpeas as a base, along with pepper as well as coriander, cumin and sesame seeds. The ingredients are ground together until the texture is that of a coarse powder. Dukka can be sprinkled over meats and vegetables, or used as a dip (preceeded by olive oil) for breads, fresh vegetables and so on. It's available in Middle Eastern markets.
dulce
Spanish for "sweet," dulce generally refers to an intensely sweet confection made with sugar and cream.
dulse
Hailing from the British Isles, dulse is an edible, coarse-textured, red seaweed with a pungent, briny flavor. When dried, dulse remains supple though rubbery, which may be why some stalwart Irish use it like chewing tobacco. Dulse is primarily used in soups and condiments.
dumpling
Savory dumplings are small or large mounds of dough that are usually dropped into a liquid mixture (such as soup or stew) and cooked until done. Some are stuffed with meat or cheese mixtures. Dessert dumplings most often consist of a fruit mixture encased in a sweet pastry dough and baked. They're usually served with a sauce. Some sweet dumplings are poached in a sweet sauce and served with cream.
Dundee cake
A classic Scottish fruitcake made with candied citron, orange and lemon peels, almonds and various spices. The top of a Dundee cake is traditionally covered completely with blanched whole almonds.
Dunlop cheese
Hailing from Scotland, this cow's-milk cheese is quite mild when young, sharpening slightly as it ages. The ivory-colored Dunlop resembles a soft cheddar in texture. It's delicious with breads and melts beautifully. See also cheese.
durian
This larger-than-life fruit of the Malaysian tree can weigh up to 10 pounds, has a brownish-green, semihard shell covered with thick spikes, and is slightly larger than a football. To all but its Southeast Asian fans, the durian has a nauseating smell a truth attested to by the fact that it's been outlawed by many airlines. The creamy, slightly sweet flesh, however, has an exquisitely rich, custardy texture. Fresh durian is not generally available in the United States, however, preserved dried durian can be found in Asian markets.
dust
1. In cooking, this term refers to lightly coating a food with a powdery ingredient such as flour or confectioners' sugar. 2. A term used to describe inferior, coarsely crushed tea leaves.
Dutch oven
A large pot or kettle, usually made of cast iron, with a tight-fitting lid so steam cannot readily escape. It's used for moist-cooking methods, such as braising and stewing. Dutch ovens are said to be of Pennsylvania Dutch heritage, dating back to the 1700s.
Duxelles
Often used as a garnish or to flavor sauces and soups, duxelles is a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots and herbs cooked in butter until it forms a thick paste.
Earl Grey tea
This popular black tea was named for Charles Grey, the second earl in his line, who was also prime minister to King William iv in the early 19th century. An amalgamation of Indian and Sri Lankan teas, Earl Grey gets its elusive flavor from oil of bergamot. The Earl is said to have been given the recipe by a Chinese mandarin with whom he was friends. See also tea.
Early Richmond cherry
So named because it's the first sour cherry available in the late spring, the bright red Early Richmond is excellent for cooking purposes. See also cherry.
earthenware
Clay bakeware that is glazed with a hard, nonporous coating. If high-fired, the earthenware is hard; lowfiring produces soft, fragile ware. Because of its inherent ability to release heat slowly, earthenware is favored for dishes requiring lengthy cooking such as baked beans and stews. Care must be taken to cool earthenware slowly and completely before washing in order to prevent the glaze from cracking. Once the glaze cracks, the exposed surfaces can adversely affect the flavor of foods cooked in the container.
eau de vie
French for "water of life," this term describes any colorless, potent brandy or other spirit distilled from fermented fruit juice. kirsch (made from cherries) and framboise (from raspberries) are the two most popular eaux de vie. See also aqua vitae; liqueur.
Eau-De-Vie
also aqua vitae, or water of life literally. A term commonly applied to homemade brandies and distilled white spirits, made from the lees of wine.
Eccles cake
Named for the Lancashire, England, town of Eccles, this small domed confection has a filling of currants and other dried fruit mixed with sugar and butter and encased in a puff pastry shell.
Edam cheese
Hailing from Holland, this mellow, savory cheese has a pale yellow interior with a red or yellow paraffin coating (the yellow is more common in Holland). It's made from part-skimmed milk (40 percent milk fat) and comes in spheres that can weigh anywhere from 1 to 4 pounds. Edam is second only to Gouda as Holland's most exported cheese. It's a great all-purpose cheese, especially good when served with dark beer. See also cheese.
edamame
The Japanese name for fresh soybeans. Edamame, which are usually bright to dark green, are available fresh in Asian markets from late spring to early fall. They're also available frozen.
Eddoes
Also called taro root and dasheen, are solid, roundish root tubers. It is a starchy root with a combination of potato, water chestnut and artichoke flavors. It is delicious deep-fried, boiled, roasted or pan-fried. Peel the root first, and use as you would potatoes.
edta
Abbreviation for ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, an additive used in some processed foods to eliminate the possibility of rancidity caused by the transfer of trace metals during the manufacturing process. edta has a wide variety of nonculinary uses, including the treatment of lead poisoning.
Egg
the ovoid, hard-shelled reproductive body produced by a bird, consisting principally of a yolk and albumen; it is a good source of protein, iron, sulfur and vitamins A, B, D and E but also relatively high in cholesterol.
egg cream
This favorite New York City soda fountain drink has been popular since the 1930s. Egg creams don't contain a speck of egg but are so named because of the froth (resembling beaten egg whites) that crowns the drink. They're made with a mixture of milk and chocolate syrup into which seltzer water is spritzed, causing the mixture to foam enthusiastically.
egg foo yong
A Chinese-American dish made by combining eggs with various foods such as bean sprouts, water chestnuts, scallions, cured or smoked meat, or chicken. Small, pancake-size portions are poured into a skillet and fried until golden brown. Egg foo yong can also be made in one large round. It is sometimes topped with a sauce of chicken broth, soy sauce and various seasonings.
egg piercer
A kitchen tool with a sharp steel pin, usually spring-mounted, which pokes a tiny hole in the large end of an egg. This hole prevents the egg from cracking because the air inside (which expands during boiling) can gradually escape.
egg ring
A round, bottomless, stainless steel ring, sometimes with a vertical handle, in which an egg can be poached or fried. The ring keeps the egg perfectly round during cooking. It's removed before the egg is served.
Egg Roll
Chinese pastry stuffed with a mixture of shredded meats, shrimp, cabbage or lettuce, and vegetables, then deep-fried.
egg scissors
Used to remove the top of soft-cooked eggs, this circular gadget has a scissors-style handle. It's positioned over the top of the egg and, when the handle is operated, a ring of "teeth" or a ringed blade clips off the top third of the eggshell.
egg slicer
A kitchen tool with a slatted, egg-shaped hollow on the bottom and a hinged top consisting of 10 fine steel wires. When the upper portion is brought down onto a hard-cooked egg sitting in the base, it cuts the egg into even slices.
egg substitutes
A liquid sold in cartons, this product is usually a blend of egg whites, food starch, corn oil, skim-milk powder, tofu, artificial coloring and a plethora of additives. It contains no cholesterol but each serving is almost as high in sodium as a real egg. Egg substitutes can be scrambled and also used in many baking and cooking recipes calling for whole eggs.
Egg Timer
a small, hourglass-shaped container that holds a fixed amount of sand. When the timer is turned upside down, the sand moves from one half to another in a three-minute period, the time required to cook a medium-sized egg to the soft-boiled stage.
egg wash
Egg yolk or egg white mixed with a small amount of water or milk. It's brushed over breads, pastry and other baked goods before baking to give them color and gloss.
Eggnog
a frothy drink made from cream or milk, egg yolks, sugar and flavorings such as rum or brandy. Eggnog is a tradition Christmas drink.
eggplant
Because the eggplant is a member of the nightshade family, it's related to the potato and tomato. Though commonly thought of as a vegetable, eggplant is actually a fruit... specifically a berry. There are many varieties of this delicious food, ranging in color from rich purple to white, in length from 2 to 12 inches and in shape from oblong to round. In the United States, the most common eggplant is the large, cylindrical- or pear-shape variety with a smooth, glossy, dark purple skin. It's available year-round, with the peak season during August and September. Choose a firm, smooth-skinned eggplant heavy for its size; avoid those with soft or brown spots. Eggplants become bitter with age and are very perishable. They should be stored in a cool, dry place and used within a day or two of purchase. If longer storage is necessary, place the eggplant in the refrigerator vegetable drawer. When young, the skin of most eggplants is deliciously edible; older eggplants should be peeled. Since the flesh discolors rapidly, an eggplant should be cut just before using. Bitter, overripe fruit can benefit by the ancient method of salting both halves and weighting them for 20 minutes before rinsing; the salt helps eliminate some of the acrid taste. Eggplant can be prepared in a variety of ways including baking, broiling and frying. It does, however, have spongelike capacity to soak up oil so it should be well coated with a batter or crumb mixture to inhibit fat absorption. Many other varieties of this versatile fruit are now finding their way into some markets. The very narrow, straight Japanese or Asian eggplant ranges in color from solid purple to striated shades and has tender, slightly sweet flesh. The Italian or baby eggplant looks like a miniature version of the common large variety, but has a more delicate skin and flesh. The appearance of the egg-shaped white eggplant makes it clear how this fruit was named. It has a tougher skin, but firmer, smoother flesh. In general, these varieties can be cooked in many of the same methods as the large eggplant. They rarely require salting, however, and usually benefit from a short cooking time.
eggplant caviar
A thick, pureed mixture of roasted eggplant, tomato, onion, olive oil and various seasonings. It's served cold or at room temperature as a dip or spread.
eggs
Legends about eggs have abounded throughout the eons. Early Phoenicians thought that a primeval egg split open to form heaven and earth; Egyptians believed that their god Ptah created the egg from the sun and the moon; and American Indians thought that the Great Spirit burst forth from a giant golden egg to create the world. In all of the early legends the chicken is never mentioned, making the answer to the question of which came first the chicken or the egg seem obvious. The most common egg used for food today is the hen's egg, though those from other fowl including duck, goose and quail are sold in many areas. Hens' eggs have long been bedeviled by their high cholesterol content (about 213 milligrams for a large egg), which is contained entirely in the yolk. Since the American Heart Association recommends that adults limit their cholesterol consumption to no more than 300 milligrams of cholesterol a day, strict cholesterol watchers generally either drastically reduce their egg consumption or eat the whites only. Most hens' eggs on the market today have been classified according to quality and size under usda standards. In descending order, egg grades are aa, A and B, the classification being determined by both exterior and interior quality. The factors determining exterior quality include the soundness, cleanliness, shape and texture of the shell. Interior quality is judged by "candling," so named because in days gone by an egg was held up in front of a candle to see inside. Today, candling is more likely to be accomplished electrically, with the eggs moving and rotating on rollers over high-intensity lights. The interior quality is determined by the size of the air cell (the empty space between the white and shell at the large end of the egg smaller in high-quality eggs), the proportion and density of the white, and whether or not the yolk is firm and free of defects. In high-quality eggs, both the white and yolk stand higher, and the white spreads less than in lower-grade eggs. Eggs come in the following sizes based on their minimum weight per dozen: jumbo (30 oz. per dozen), extra large (27 oz.), large (24 oz.), medium (21 oz.), small (18 oz.) and peewee (15 oz.). Large eggs are those on which most recipes are based. An eggshell's color white or brown is determined by the breed of hen that laid it and has nothing to do with either taste or nutritive value. The egg white is an excellent source of protein and riboflavin. Egg yolks contain all of the fat in an egg and are a good source of protein, iron, vitamins A and D, choline and phosphorus. The color of the yolk depends entirely on the hen's diet. Hens fed on alfalfa, grass and yellow corn lay eggs with lighter yolks than wheat-fed hens. chalazae are the thick, cordlike strands of egg white attached to 2 sides of the yolk that serve to anchor it in the center of the egg. The more prominent the chalazae, the fresher the egg. Blood spots on egg yolks are the result of a natural occurrence, such as a blood vessel rupturing on the surface. They do not indicate that the egg is fertile, nor do they affect flavor. Contrary to popular belief, fertile eggs expensive because of high production costs are no more nutritious than nonfertile ones. They do contain a small amount of male hormone and do not keep as well as other eggs. Storing eggs: Eggs must always be refrigerated. When stored at room temperature, they lose more quality in 1 day than in a week in the refrigerator. Eggs should be stored in the carton in which they came; transferring them to the egg container in the refrigerator door exposes them to odors and damage. They should always be stored large-end-up and should never be placed near odoriferous foods (such as onions) because they easily absorb odors. The best flavor and cooking quality will be realized in eggs used within a week. They can, however, be refrigerated up to a month, providing the shells are intact. Leftover yolks can be covered with cold water and refrigerated, tightly covered, for up to 3 days. They can be frozen only with the addition of 1/8 teaspoon salt or 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar or corn syrup per 1/4 cup egg yolks. Tightly covered egg whites can be refrigerated up to 4 days. They can be frozen as is up to 6 months. An easy way to freeze whites is to place one in each section of an ice cube tray. Freeze, then pop the egg-white cubes out into a freezer-weight plastic bag. Both frozen egg yolks and whites should be thawed overnight in the refrigerator before being used. Hard-cooked eggs should be refrigerated no more than a week. Eggs are available in other forms including powdered and frozen (whole or separated). Commercially frozen egg products are generally pasteurized and some contain stabilizing ingredients. Another egg product available to consumers is table-ready pasteurized liquid eggs, which can be found in a supermarket's refrigerated section. This product mixes the white and yolks, then pasteurizes them at a heat level that kills any bacteria without cooking the eggs. Pasteurized eggs are sold in 8- and 16-ounce cartons (4 1/2 and 9 whole eggs respectively). They can be refrigerated unopened for up to 12 weeks from the pack date (see open dating). The multitalented egg is delicious not only as a food in its own right but has numerous other uses as a leavener in cakes, breads and soufflés; a base for dressings such as mayonnaise; a thickener in sauces and custards; a clarifying agent for stocks; and a coating for breaded or battered foods. See also egg substitutes.
eggs Benedict
A breakfast or brunch specialty consisting of two toasted English muffin halves, each topped with a slice of cured meat, a poached egg and a dollop of hollandaise sauce. The most popular legend of the dish's origin says that it originated at Manhattan's famous Delmonico's Restaurant when regular patrons, Mr. and Mrs. LeGrand Benedict, complained that there was nothing new on the lunch menu. Delmonico's maitre d' and Mrs. Benedict began discussing possibilities and eggs Benedict was the result.
eggs Sardou
Named for Victorien Sardou, a famous French dramatist, this specialty of Antoine's restaurant in New Orleans consists of poached eggs topped with artichoke hearts, cured meat, truffles and hollandaise sauce.
Elberta peach
A large freestone peach with a sweet, succulent flesh and red-blushed, yellow skin. It's good both for eating out of hand and for cooking. See also peach.
Elbo cheese
A particularly mild-flavored samsoe cheese with irregular, Swisslike holes. See also cheese.
elbow pasta
Any of a wide variety of short, curved tubular pastas, such as macaroni.
elderberry
The purple-black, tart fruit of the elder tree, elderberries can be eaten raw (though they are quite sour) but are better used to make jams, pies and homemade wine. The creamy white elderberry flowers can be added to salads or batter-dipped and fried like fritters.
election cake
This rich, yeast-raised cake is replete with nuts, candied fruit and sherry-soaked raisins. It was created in the 18th century to celebrate election day.
Elixirs
cordials or essences that are said to be life-prolonging.
Emincé
a term used to describe meat, vegetables, or fish sliced very thinly, placed in an earthenware dish and simmered in added sauce.
Emmentaler cheese; Emmental; Emmenthaler
Switzerland's oldest and most important cheese, Emmentaler has a distinctively nutty-sweet, mellow flavor that makes it perfect for almost any use from snacks to an après-dinner fruit-and-cheese plate. This cow's-milk cheese is light gold in color, with marble-size holes and a natural light brown rind. It was named for Switzerland's Emmental valley and is exported in giant wheels weighing from 150 to 220 pounds each. See also cheese.
Empanada
Savory or sweet turnover.
emperor grape
In season from November to May, the large emperor grape comes from California and has an elongated oval shape. The thin, pale red to purple-red skin covers a mild-flavored flesh with scattered seeds. See also grape.
emulsifier
Generally, any ingredient used to bind together normally noncombinative substances, such as oil and water. Egg yolks contain a natural emulsifier (lecithin) and are used to thicken and bind sauces (such as hollandaise), as well to bind ingredients in baking. xanthan gum is a commercial emulsifier used in numerous foods like salad dressings and dairy products. Some commercial emulsifiers also inhibit baked goods from going stale.
Emulsion
The mixture of two liquids that cannot normally combine smoothly (e.g., oil and water). Mayonnaise and hollandaise are two familiar emulsions.
En croute
A food that is wrapped in pastry and baked.
enamelware
Cast-iron or steel pots and pans that have been completely coated with thin layers of brightly colored enamel. Enamelware is a good heat conductor, easy to clean and doesn't interact with food to impart off-flavors. Light-colored enameled surfaces do not brown food well; they will also discolor over a long period of use. Overheating enamelware may cause the surface to crack. Care must be taken not to use abrasives to clean enamel as it easily scratches.
enchilada
This Mexican specialty is made by rolling a softened corn tortilla around a meat or cheese filling. It's served hot, usually topped with a tomato-based salsa and sprinkled with cheese.
Endive
a plant (Cichorium endivia) with curly dark green leaves and a slightly bitter flavor; also know as curly endive and imprecisely known as chicory (especially in France and United States).
English breakfast
A large, hearty breakfast that can include fruit or juice, eggs, cured meat or other meat, fish, cereal, baked goods, jam and tea. Compare to continental breakfast.
English breakfast tea
A hearty blend of several of various black teas (usually assam and ceylon). English breakfast tea is more full-flavored and full-bodied than a single black tea. See also tea.
English muffin
This round, rather flat (about 3 inches in diameter by 1 inch high) "muffin" is made from a soft yeast dough that, after being formed into rounds, is baked on a griddle. It can be made at home but is readily available commercially in an assortment of flavors including sourdough, whole wheat, raisin, cinnamon and cornmeal. English muffins are halved before toasting. In order to produce a surface with the proper peaks and craters (which adds to their crunchy texture and provides plentiful pockets for butter and jam), English muffins must be fork-split and gently pulled apart. Using a knife to cut them in half will not produce the desired result.
English mustard
An extremely hot powdered mustard containing ground mustard seeds (both black or brown and yellow-white), wheat flour and turmeric. The most well-known brand of powdered mustard today is Colman's, named for its 19th-century British developer, Jeremiah Colman. See also mustard.
English Pea
This is the common garden pea, also known simply as green pea. But there's nothing common about its flavor, particularly during the peak months of March, April and May and again from August to November. The French are famous for their tiny, young green peas known as petits pois. Choose fresh peas that have plump, unblemished, bright green pods. The peas inside should be glossy, crunchy and sweet. Because peas begin the sugar-to-starch conversion process the moment they're picked, it's important to buy them as fresh as possible. Refrigerate peas in their pods in a plastic bag for no more than 2 to 3 days. Shell just before using. Both English peas and the French petits pois are available frozen and canned. Peas are a fair source of vitamins A and C, as well as niacin and iron. See also pea; legume.
English sole
Also called lemon sole in the United States, this species of flounder is low in fat and finely textured. It ranges from 1/4 to 2 pounds and can be purchased whole or in fillets. It's often labeled simply as "fillet of sole." English sole can be prepared in a variety of ways including baking, broiling, poaching and sautéing. See also fish.
English Walnut
a nut (Juglans regia) with a hard, wrinkled tan shell enclosing two double-lobed sections; has a sweet flavor and is used for snacking, in sweet and savory dishes and for obtaining oil; also known as the Persian walnut.
Enoki
Crunchy mushrooms that look sort of like vermicelli wearing ski hats.
enoki; enokitake; enokidake mushrooms
The cultivated variety of these crisply delicate mushrooms comes in clumps of long, spaghettilike stems topped with tiny, snowy white caps. (In contrast, the wild form has orangy-brown, very shiny caps.) Enokitake have an appealingly crunchy texture and mild almost fruity taste, unlike the bosky flavor of most mushrooms. They're available fresh year-round (depending on the region) in Asian markets and some supermarkets. They can also be purchased canned. Choose fresh mushrooms that are firm and white. Refrigerate, wrapped in paper towel then a plastic bag, up to 5 days. Before using, they should be cut away from the mass at the base of the stems. Enokitake are particularly good raw in salads. They may also be used to garnish soups or other hot dishes. If used as part of a cooked dish, they should be added at the last minute, as heat tends to make them tough. These tiny mushrooms provide a good source of vitamin D, as well as small amounts of the B-complex vitamins. The enoki is also called snow puff mushroom, golden mushroom and velvet stem. See also mushrooms.
enology
Also spelled oenology, this is the science or study of viniculture (making wines). One who studies the science is called an enologist (or oenologist). See also enophile.
Enophile
A person who is knowledgeable about and enjoys wine.
enrich
; enriched 1. A term usually applied to flour that, after the milling has stripped it of the wheat germ and other nutritious elements, has niacin, riboflavin and thiamin added back into it. U.S. law requires that flours not containing wheat germ must have these nutrients replenished. 2. The term can also apply to enriching and thickening a sauce with the last-minute addition of an ingredient such as butter, cream or egg yolks.
ensalada
The Spanish word for "salad."
Entrée
today the term refers to the main course of a meal, but originally it was the second course of many. French, meaning entrance.
Entrecôte
a cut of beef taken from between the ribs. Sometimes the term refers to a rumpsteak or sirloin.
Entrecote
French term for the tender steak cut from between the ninth and eleventh ribs of beef.
entremesas
Spanish for "appetizers."
Entremets
side dishes, literally between dishes; can be savory or sweet.
epazote
A pungent, wild herb whose strong flavor is, like that of fresh coriander, an acquired taste. It has flat, pointed leaves and is available dried (and infrequently fresh) in Latin markets. Also called Mexican tea and wormseed, epazote is popular in many bean dishes because it's a carminative, which means it reduces gas. It's also used as a tea. See also herbs.
Epergne
a serving dish of numerous separate bowls attached to one main stem.
Epicure
a gourmet who gives special attention to the knowledge of food and wine.
escabèche
Of Spanish origin, escabèche is a dish of poached or fried fish, covered with a spicy marinade and refrigerated for at least 24 hours. It's a popular dish in Spain and the Provençal region of France, and is usually served cold as an appetizer. Escovitch is the Jamaican name for this dish.
Escabeche
A Spanish dish of poached or fried fish covered with a spicy marinade.
Escalope
refers to a thin slice of meat or fish, without bones, gristle, or skin.
espagnole, á l'
A French term for foods prepared in the Spanish style, usually with tomatoes, onions, garlic and sweet peppers.
Espresso
an Italian way of preparing coffee using steam.
Esrom cheese
Named for its town of origin, Esrom, Denmark, this semisoft cheese has a mildly pungent flavor that's well complemented by dark beer or bold red wines. As it ages, its flavor intensifies until strong and earthy. Esrom has a thin, yellow-brown rind and a pale yellow interior studded with irregular holes. See also cheese.
Essences
condensed flavors made as their source is distilled or pressed, then mixed with liquid. Examples are almond extract, rose water, etc.
estate bottled
A wine label term indicating that 100 percent of the grapes that went into that wine were grown in the winery's own vineyards, or from vineyards (in the same appellation) controlled by the winery through a long-term lease. Furthermore, such wines must be vinified and bottled at that winery. The term Château bottled has a comparable meaning. Both refer to a wine that's considered to be of superior quality and character. European phrases similar to "estate bottled" are: the French Mis en Bouteille au Domaine, Mis au Domaine, Mis en Bouteille à la Propriété and Mis en Bouteille au Château ; the Italian Imbottigliato all'Origine; and the German Gutsabfüllung and Erzeugerabfüllung.
Etouffée
French for smothered and used to describe a stewed dish cooked with little or no liquid in a tightly closed pot; usually served over white rice.
evaporated milk
This canned, unsweetened milk is fresh, homogenized milk from which 60 percent of the water has been removed. Vitamin D is added for extra nutritional value. It comes in whole, lowfat and skim forms; the whole-milk version must contain at least 7.9 percent milk fat, the lowfat has about half that and the skim version 1/2 percent or less. As it comes from the can, evaporated milk is used to enrich custards or add a creamy texture to many dishes. When mixed with an equal amount of water, it can be substituted for fresh milk in recipes. Evaporated milk is less expensive than fresh milk and is therefore popular for many cooked dishes. It has a slightly caramelized, "canned" flavor that is not appreciated by all who taste it. Canned milk can be stored at room temperature until opened, after which it must be tightly covered and refrigerated for no more than a week. When slightly frozen, evaporated milk can be whipped and used as an inexpensive substitute for whipped cream.
Explorateur cheese
This sensuously rich triple-cream cheese is made from cow's milk and contains 75 percent fat. It comes in chunky cylinders with white rinds. When ripe, the ivory interior has a delicately piquant flavor. Explorateur is wonderful as a snack or after-dinner cheese served with a dry, fruity white wine. See also cheese.
extracts
Concentrated flavorings derived from various foods or plants, usually through evaporation or distillation. Extracts can come in several forms including solid (as in a bouillon cube), liquid (such as vanilla extract) or jellylike (as with a demi-glace). They deliver a powerful flavor impact to foods without adding excess volume or changing the consistency. Liquid extracts will keep indefinitely if stored in a cool, dark place. See also essences.
fagioli
The Italian word for "beans," usually white kidney beans. String beans are called fagiolini. See also beans.
Fahrenheit
a temperature scale with 32° as the freezing point of water and 212° as its boiling point (to convert to Celsius, subtract 32 from the Fahrenheit, multiply by 5 and divide by 9).
Fajitas
a Mexican-American dish consisting of strips of skirt steak marinated in lime juice, oil, garlic, red pepper and then grilled; the diner wraps the meat in a flour tortilla and garnishes it with items such as grilled onions, peppers, guacamole, pico de gallo, refried beans, and salsa; chicken or fish can be substituted.
falafel; felafel
A Middle Eastern specialty consisting of small, deep-fried croquettes or balls made of highly spiced, ground chickpeas. They're generally tucked inside pita bread, sandwich-style, but can also be served as appetizers. A yogurt- or tahini-based sauce is often served with falafel.
Farce
stuffing.
farce; farci
Farce is the French word for "stuffing." Farci means "stuffed."
Farfalle
Italian for butterfly; used to describe bow-shaped pasta.
farfalle; farfallini; farfallone
pasta shaped like small butterflies or bow ties. Farfallini are the smallest butterflies, farfallone the largest.
Farfel
a soup garnish made of minced noodle dough.
farina
Made from cereal grains, farina is a bland-tasting flour or meal that, when cooked in boiling water, makes a hot breakfast cereal. It's very easily digested and rich in protein.
farl; farle
1. A thin Scottish griddle cake made of oatmeal or flour and cut into triangular wedges. Farls, which are similar to scones, take their name from the word fardel meaning "fourth part" and referring to a fourth part or quarter cut of a round cake. 2. The triangular wedge shape of such a cut cake is also referred to as a "farl."
farmer cheese; farmer's cheese
This fresh cheese is a form of cottage cheese from which most of the liquid has been pressed. The very dry farmer cheese is sold in a solid loaf. It has a mild, slightly tangy flavor and is firm enough to slice or crumble. It's an all-purpose cheese that can be eaten as is or used in cooking. See also cheese.
Farro
Tuscany's mainstay, a small, light brown grain.
fasnacht; fastnacht
A yeast-raised potato pastry that's deep-fried like a doughnut. Fasnachts were originally made and served on Shrove Tuesday to use up the fat that was forbidden during Lent. They're diamond-shaped and often have a slit cut down the center before frying. They first appeared in Pennsylvania, though there is some argument whether the actual origin is German or Dutch.
fat substitutes
Synthesized substances created to replace fat in a variety of foods. To date, the Food and Drug Administration (fda) has only approved two of these substitutes Simplesse and Leanesse. Simplesse, manufactured by NutraSweet, is composed of milk protein and egg whites. This all-natural fat substitute is very low in calories and cholesterol free. It's used in a variety of foods including frozen dairy products, yogurt, cheese spreads and salad dressings. Leanesse, a ConAgra product, is made from oat flour (Oatrim) through a heating-and-cooling process that produces a flavorless gel that imitates the texture of fat. It's used in foods such as frozen dinners and energy bars. Yet to receive fda approval is the much-touted Procter & Gamble product, Olestra. This no-calorie, sucrose-polyester fat substitute is a composition of sugar and fatty acids, embodied in a molecule so large that it moves right through the human system without a trace. Olestra contributes the same cooking benefits (such as crispy French fries) and flavor as fat, but without the associated risks. Although it was discovered in 1968 and has a decade-old petition filed with the fda for use (in shortening, oils and snacks), Procter & Gamble still awaits approval for this landmark food additive that could change the way America eats (or certainly the way it gains weight). See also fats and oils.
fats and oils
There are myriad culinary uses for fats and oils including cooking, tenderizing baked goods and adding richness, texture and flavor to foods. Fat is one of the body's basic nutrients, providing energy by furnishing calories. All forms of fat are made up of a combination of fatty acids, which are the building blocks of fats much as amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. Fats and oils are either saturated or unsaturated, the latter classification being broken down into monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats. To illustrate the difference between the terms saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated, picture a fat molecule as a train of passenger cars (carbon atoms). If every seat on the train is filled by a "passenger" (hydrogen atom), then this is a saturated fat molecule. If there's one seat open in each car where a hydrogen-atom "passenger" can sit, the molecule is monounsaturated ; if there are several seats available, it's polyunsaturated. In general, saturated fats come from animal sources and are solid enough to hold their shape at room temperature (about 70°F). Exceptions to this rule are tropical oils such as coconut oil and palm oil, which, though of plant origin, are semisolid at room temperature and highly saturated. Saturated fats are the nutritional "bad guys" because they're known to be associated with some forms of cancer and to increase cholesterol levels, which can be a contributing factor to heart disease. In addition to the two aforementioned tropical oils, the most commonly commercially used saturated fats are butter, lard, suet and hydrogenated vegetable oils such as margarine and vegetable shortening. Hydrogenated (or partially hydrogenated) oils have been chemically transformed from their normal liquid state (at room temperature) into solids. During the hydrogenation procedure extra hydrogen atoms are pumped into unsaturated fat. This process creates trans fatty acids, converting the mixture into a saturated fat and obliterating any benefits it had as a polyunsaturate. Some researchers believe that hydrogenated oils may actually be more damaging than regular saturated fats for those limiting cholesterol in their diets. Unsaturated fats are derived primarily from plants and are liquid (in the form of an oil) at room temperature. Generally speaking, oils are composed (in varying percentages) of both monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats. Monounsaturated fats are known to help reduce the levels of ldl (the bad) cholesterol. The three most widely used oils that are high in monounsaturates are olive oil, canola oil and peanut oil. Polyunsaturated fats are also considered relatively healthy and include the following, ranked in order, most to least, of polyunsaturates: safflower oil, soybean oil, corn oil and sesame oil. Omega-3 oils are a particular classification of fatty acids found in some plants (such as flax seed) and in the tissues of all sea creatures. These special polyunsaturated oils have been found to be particularly beneficial to coronary health (purportedly lowering the bad ldl cholesterol and elevating the good hdl) as well as to brain growth and development. Among the popular fish that are particularly good sources of Omega-3 oil (in order of importance) are sardines, herring, mackerel, bluefish, tuna, salmon, pilchard, butterfish and pompano. High cooking temperatures can destroy almost half the Omega-3 in fish, whereas microwave cooking doesn't appear to have an adverse effect on it. Canned tuna packed in water is a quick and easy way for many people to get their Omega-3 oil, but it's worth noting that combining it with the fat in mayonnaise offsets any positive effects. Canned salmon and sardines are also excellent Omega-3 sources. Storing fats and oils. Saturated fats such as butter, margarine and lard should be tightly wrapped and refrigerated. They can usually be stored this way for up to 2 weeks. Hydrogenated vegetable shortening can be stored, tightly covered, at room temperature for up to 3 months. Refined oils, sealed airtight, can be stored on the kitchen shelf up to 2 months. Oils with a high proportion of monounsatu-rates such as olive oil and peanut oil are more perishable and should be refrigerated if kept longer than a month. See also almond oil; animal fat; chili oil; cocoa butter; cottonseed oil; fat substitutes; grapeseed oil; grease; hazelnut oil; milk fat; oils; pumpkin seed oil; sunflower seed oil; trans fatty acids; walnut oil.
fava bean
This tan, rather flat bean resembles a very large lima bean. It comes in a large pod that, unless very young, is inedible. Fava beans can be purchased dried, cooked in cans and, infrequently, fresh. If you find fresh fava beans, choose those with pods that aren't bulging with beans, which indicates age. Fava beans have a very tough skin, which should be removed by blanching before cooking. They're very popular in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes, can be cooked in a variety of ways and are often used in soups. Also called faba bean, broad bean and horse bean. See also beans.
fedelini
Italian for "little faithful ones," referring culinarily to very fine spaghetti. See also pasta.
feijoa
This small, egg-shaped fruit is native to South America, though New Zealand is now a major exporter and California cultivates a small crop. It's also referred to as a pineapple guava, and is often mislabeled in produce sections as guava. A thin, bright green skin surrounds the feijoa's exceedingly fragrant, cream-colored flesh that encases a jellylike center. The flavor is complex, with sweet notes of quince, pineapple and mint. New Zealand feijoas are available from spring to early summer; those from California reach the market in the fall. Choose fruit that has a rich, perfumy fragrance and gives slightly to the touch. Ripen by placing it in a paper bag with an apple for several days at room temperature. Ripe feijoas can be refrigerated 3 to 5 days. Before using, remove the slightly bitter peel. Feijoas are naturals in fruit salads, desserts and as garnishes. They contain a fair amount of vitamin C.
feijoada
Brazil's most famous regional dish, feijoada is an assorted platter of thinly sliced meats (such as sausages, beef and smoked tongue) accompanied by side dishes of rice, black beans, shredded kale or collard greens, hearts of palm, orange slices and hot peppers.
Fell
a thin, papery tissue found on the outside of the surface of a leg of lamb.
Fennel
A perennial plant (Foeniculum vulgare) with feathery foliage and tiny flowers; the plant's oval, green-brown seeds have prominent ridges, short, hair-like fibers and a weak, anise-like flavor and aroma and are available whole and ground; used in baked goods and savory dishes in Italian and Central European cuisines and to flavor alcoholic beverages. See ouzo, arrack; also finnochio.
Fenugreek
an Asiatic herb with a bitter celery-like flavor. Its chief use is in curry powders and stews.
fermentation
A process by which a food goes through a chemical change caused by enzymes produced from bacteria, microorganisms or yeasts. Fermentation alters the appearance and/or flavor of foods and beverages such as beer, buttermilk, cheese, wine, vinegar and yogurt.
fermented black beans
Also called Chinese black beans and salty black beans, this Chinese specialty consists of small black soybeans that have been preserved in salt before being packed into cans or plastic bags. They have an extremely pungent, salty flavor and must be soaked in warm water for about 30 minutes before using. Fermented black beans are usually finely chopped before being added to fish or meat dishes as a flavoring. They can be stored, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to a year. If the beans begin to dry out, a few drops of peanut oil will refresh them.
Feta
1. A soft Greek cheese made from ewe's milk (or occasionally, goat's milk) and pickled in brine; has a white color, crumbly texture and salty, sour, tangy flavor. 2. A soft, white, flaky American feta-style cheese made from cow's milk and stored in brine.
feta cheese
This classic Greek cheese is traditionally made of sheep's or goat's milk, though today large commercial producers often make it with cow's milk. Because it's cured and stored in its own salty whey brine (see both listings ), feta is often referred to as pickled cheese. White, crumbly and rindless, feta is usually pressed into square cakes. It has a rich, tangy flavor, contains from 45 to 60 percent milk fat and can range in texture from soft to semidry. Feta makes a zesty addition to salads and many cooked dishes. See also cheese.
fettucce; fettuccelle
Both are fettuccine noodles, with fettucce the broadest, at about 1/2 inch wide; the 1/8-inch wide fettuccelle are the narrowest. See also pasta.
Fettuccine
Italian for small ribbons; used to describe thin, flat ribbons of pasta; sold as straight ribbons or loosely bent and curled.
fettuccine Alfredo
Roman restaurateur Alfredo di Lello is credited with creating this dish in the 1920s. The fettuccine is enrobed in a rich sauce of butter, grated parmesan cheese, heavy cream and plentiful grindings of black pepper. Other noodles may be substituted for the fettuccine.
fettuccine; fettuccini
Egg noodles cut into flat, narrow (about 3/8-inch) strips. See also pasta.
feuilletage
French for "flaky" or "puff pastry." Also called pâté feuilletée. See also puff pastry.
fiber, dietary
Also referred to as roughage, dietary fiber is that portion of plant-related foods (such as fruits, legumes, vegetables and whole grains) that cannot be completely digested. Statistics maintain that high-fiber diets reduce cholesterol levels and cancer rates.
ficelle
French for "twine" or "string," referring culinarily to a long, very thin loaf of French bread, about half the size of a baguette.
fiddlehead fern
A young, edible, tightly coiled fern frond that resembles the spiral end of a violin (fiddle). It is also referred to as ostrich fern and pohole. The shoots are in their coiled form for only about 2 weeks before they unfurl into graceful greenery. Fiddlehead ferns are a rich, deep green color and are about 2 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. They have a flavor akin to an asparagus-green bean-okra cross and a texture that's appealingly chewy. Fiddleheads can be found throughout the eastern half of the United States, ranging from as far south as Virginia north to Canada. They're available in specialty produce markets from April through July, depending on the region. Choose small, firm, brightly colored ferns with no sign of softness or yellowing. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped, for no more than 2 days. Fiddleheads should be washed and the ends trimmed before being briefly cooked by steaming, simmering or sautéing. They may be served cooked as a first course or side dish or used raw in salads. Fiddlehead ferns are a good source of vitamins A and C.
fideos
Very thin, vermicelli-type noodles. In Spain, they're often tossed with vegetables; in Mexico, they're used to make one version of sopa seca (dry soup).
field pea
A variety of yellow or green pea grown specifically for drying. These peas are dried and usually split along a natural seam, in which case they're called split peas. Whole and split dried field peas are available packaged in supermarkets and in bulk in health-food stores. Field peas do not usually require presoaking before cooking. See also pea; legume.
Fig
a variety of oblong or pear-shaped fruits (Ficus carica) that grow in warm climates; generally, they have a thick, soft skin that is green, yellow, orange or purple, tannish-purple flesh with a sweet flavor and many tiny edible seeds; available fresh or dried.
figaro sauce
Tomato puree and minced parsley are added to hollandaise sauce for this rich accompaniment to fish or poultry.
Filé
powder made of sassafras leaves used to season and thicken foods.
filé powder
Choctaw Indians from the Louisiana bayou country are said to have been the first users of this seasoning made from the ground, dried leaves of the sassafras tree. It's since become an integral part of creole cooking and is used to thicken and flavor gumbos and other Creole dishes. Filé has a woodsy flavor reminiscent of root beer. It must be stirred into a dish after it's removed from the heat because undue cooking makes filé tough and stringy. Filé powder is available in the spice or gourmet section of most large supermarkets. As with all spices, it should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months.
filet mignon
This expensive, boneless cut of beef comes from the small end of the tenderloin. The filet mignon is usually 1 to 2 inches thick and 1 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter. It's extremely tender but lacks the flavor of beef with the bone attached. Cook filet mignon quickly by broiling, grilling or sautéing. See also beef; short loin.
Filet or Fillet
a boneless cut of meat, poultry or fish.
fillet
A boneless piece of meat or fish. Filet is the French spelling. fillet v. To cut the bones from a piece of meat or fish, thereby creating a meat or fish fillet.
Fillet Mignon
a small cut of beef taken from the end of the fillet, considered by many to be the most elegant steak of all. It is very tender and sweet, but lacks the flavor of a steak with bone in.
Filo
in Greece, philo is the very flaky, buttery pastry made by layering dough with shortening and rolling it and rerolling it.
filter
To strain through a paper filter or several layers of cheesecloth.
Fine
term used for good brandy.
Finely
very small, as in finely chopped, but not as small as minced.
Fines Herbes
French, fine herbs, usually a mixture of parsley, chives, tarragon, and chervil used to flavor omelets and in casseroles and soups.
Finger Bowls
bowls half-filled with warm water which may be scented with roses or a slice of lemon. Served to diners to rinse their hands in after a course in which the fingers were used to eat (lobsters, oyster, or artichokes, or example).
fining
A term usually referring to the process of removing minute floating particles that prevent wines and beers from being clear (see clarify). Besides egg whites and eggshells, other substances used to fine these liquids include gelatin, isinglass and diatomaceous earth.
Finnan haddie
Smoked, salted haddock, favored in Scotland.
finnan haddie; finnan haddock
Named after Findon, Scotland, a fishing village near Aberdeen, finnan haddie is partially boned, lightly salted and smoked haddock. It was originally smoked over peat fires, a rarity now in wide commercial production. In the British Isles, finnan haddie has long been a favorite breakfast dish. Though once exclusively from Scotland, it's now being produced in New England and other eastern coastal states. It's available whole or in fillets and can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped, for up to a month. Finnan haddie is best baked, broiled or poached. It's generally served with a cream sauce. See also fish.
Finnochio
also fennel in Florence; an herb with a licorice flavor, used as is celery and in Mediterranean cooking.
fino
This pale, delicate, very dry Spanish wine is considered by many to be the world's finest sherry. Finos are excellent when young, but should not be aged because they don't improve and may lose some of their vitality. They are often served chilled as an apéritif.
finocchio
The Italian word for fennel.
Fiorentina, alla
Italian for "in the style of Florence" (see florentine).
firm-ball stage
A test for sugar syrup describing the point at which a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water forms a firm but pliable ball. On a candy thermometer, the firm-ball stage is between 244° and 248°F.
fischietti
Italian for "small whistle," referring culinarily to the smallest of the tubular pastas.
Fish
any thousands of species of aquatic vertebrates with fins for swimming and gills for breathing, found in saltwater and freshwater worldwide, most are edible; fish are classified by bone structure as flatfish or round fish.
fish and chips
A traditional British dish of deep-fried fish fillets and french fries, most often served with malt vinegar.
fish sauce
Popular throughout Southeast Asia, fish sauce can be any of various mixtures based on the liquid from salted, fermented fish. This extremely pungent, strong-flavored and salty liquid can range in color from ochre to deep brown. It's used as a condiment and flavoring, much as soy sauce would be used. Fish sauces may be flavored variously such as with chiles or sugar depending on the use. Asian markets carry a wide variety of these pungent sauces including nam pla (Thai), nuoc nam (Vietnamese), patis (Philippines) and shottsuru (Japanese). Fish sauce is also referred to as fish gravy.
Five-Spice Powder
Used extensively in Chinese cooking, this pungent mixture of five ground spices usually consists of equal parts of cinnamon, cloves, fennel seed, star anise and Szechuan peppercorns. Prepackaged five-spice powder is available in Asian markets and most supermarkets.
Fizz
a sweet effervescent summer drink made of gin and a carbonated beverage.
flageolet
These tiny, tender French kidney beans range in color from pale green to creamy white. They're rarely available fresh in the United States but can be purchased dried, canned and occasionally frozen. Flageolets are usually prepared simply, in order to showcase their delicate flavor. They're a classic accompaniment to lamb. See also beans.
Flageolets
Munchkin kidney beans from France.
Flake
to break off small pieces or layers of food, usually with a fork; often used as a test for doneness when cooking fish.
flake, to
To use a utensil (usually a fork) to break off small pieces or layers of food.
flaky
adj. A term describing a food, such as pie crust, with a dry texture that easily breaks off into flat, flakelike pieces.
flamande, à la
à la flamande is French for "in the Flemish style," indicating a garnish of braised cabbage, carrots, turnips, potatoes and sometimes sausages. It's a classic accompaniment for meat or poultry.
flambé
French for "flamed" or "flaming," this dramatic method of food presentation consists of sprinkling certain foods with liquor, which, after warming, is ignited just before serving.
Flambe
to flame, using alcohol as the burning agent; flame causes caramelization, enhancing flavor.
Flamber
to cover or combine food with heated liquor, then set alight, and serve flaming. It also means to singe. Heating the liquor first is the secret to keeping the flame going.
flamed
The American word for flambé.
Flammekueche
Alsatian onion tart.
Flan
in France, a pastry filled with fruit, cream or custard; in Spain, a set custard usually served with a caramel sauce.
flank steak
Long, thin and fibrous, this boneless cut of beef comes from the animal's lower hindquarters. It's usually tenderized by marinating, then broiled or grilled whole. In the case of London broil, the flank steak is cut and cooked in large pieces, then thinly sliced across the grain. See also beef.
flanken
1. A strip of beef from the chuck end of the short ribs. 2. A Jewish dish using this cut of beef, which is boiled and usually served with horseradish.
Flapjacks
in the United States and Canada a another name for pancakes, griddlecakes and hotcakes. In England and Scotland, a name for drop scones.
flat bread; flatbread; flatbrod
These traditional Scandinavian crisps are thin, crackerlike breads usually made with rye flour. Many are also based on combinations of flours including wheat, barley or potato. Flat breads (flatbrod in Norwegian) are most often served with soups, salads or cheeses.
Flatbrod
flat bread of Norwegian origin, it is wafer-thin, and made from whole grain and served with salad, cheese or soup.
flatfish
A species of fish (including flounder, halibut and sole) characterized by a rather flat body, with both eyes located on the upper side. Flatfish swim on one side only; the side facing downwards is always very pale. See also brill; dab; fish; sand dab; turbot.
flauta
Meaning "flute," a flauta is a corn tortilla rolled around a savory (usually shredded meat or poultry) filling, then fried until crisp.
Flavor
to add seasoning or other ingredients to a food or beverage to improve change or add to the taste.
Flavoring
an item that adds a new flavor to a food and alters its natural flavors; flavorings include herbs, spices, vinegars and other condiments.
flax seed
Though the most universal function of flax seed is to produce linseed oil (commonly used in paints, varnishes, linoleums and inks), this tiny seed contains several essential nutrients including calcium, iron, niacin, phosphorous and vitamin E. It's also a rich source of Omega-3 fatty acids (see fats and oils). Flax seed can be found in health-food markets and some supermarkets. It has a mild nutty flavor and is often used simply sprinkled over hot dishes such as cooked cereal or stir-frys. The seed can also be sprouted and used in salads and sandwiches. Flax seed is naturally mucilaginous and, when ground into a flour and mixed with liquid, produces a blend with a texture akin to that of egg whites. This gelatinous mixture can be used in place of eggs to add body to baked goods unlike eggs, however, it does not have a leavening effect. Because it has a high fat content, flax seed should be stored in the refrigerator or freezer, where it will keep for up to 6 months. Though it is considered a digestive aid, it should also be noted that, for some people, flax seed also has a laxative effect.
fleuron
A tiny, crescent-shaped piece of puff pastry used as a garnish, usually atop hot food.
Flip
a sweet drink containing alcohol and eggs. Originally, it was a heated drink but a cold flip is more common today.
floating islands
1. A light dessert of stiffly beaten, sweetened egg white mounds that have been poached in milk. These puffs are then floated in a thin custard sauce. The dessert is also known as oeufs à la neige, "snow eggs." 2. In France, Île flottante ("floating island") is liqueur-sprinkled sponge cake spread with jam, sprinkled with nuts, topped with whipped cream and surrounded by a pool of custard.
Florentine
food set on a bed of cooked spinach and usually covered with a cream sauce and baked. From Florence, Italy.
Florentine, à la
French for "in the style of Florence (Italy)," and referring to dishes (usually of eggs or fish) that are presented on a bed of spinach and topped with mornay sauce. A "Florentine" dish is sometimes sprinkled with cheese and browned lightly in the oven. The Italian term is alla Fiorentina.
Florets
the small, closely-clustered "flowering" part of a food, such as broccoli or cauliflower.
flounder
Members of this large species of flatfish are prized for their fine texture and delicate flavor. Some of the better known members of the flounder family are dab, english sole and plaice. In America, flounder is often mislabeled as fillet of sole a misnomer because all of the fish called "sole" (except for imported European dover sole) are actually varieties of flounder. Flounder is available whole or in fillets. It can be baked, broiled, poached, steamed or sautéed. See also fish.
Flour
1. Powdery substance of varying degrees of fineness made by milling wheat, corn, rye or other grains or grinding dried vegetables (ex. mushrooms), fruits (ex. plantains) or nuts (ex. chestnuts). 2. To coat with flour.
flowering kale
Looking like a giant, multipetaled, ruffled flower, this vegetable comes in colors that range from white to pink to purple, all encircled by curly green leaves. Flowering kale (Brassica oleracea ), which is the oldest member of the cabbage family, has a slightly bitter taste and semicrisp texture. It's available from September through December. Choose heads with fresh-looking, brightly colored leaves with no sign of wilting. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 5 days. See also kale.
flowers, edible
Flowers that are used as a garnish or as an integral part of a dish, such as a salad. Not all flowers are edible. Those that are must usually be purchased from specialty produce markets or supermarkets that carry gourmet produce. They can be stored, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator up to a week. Flowers that have been sprayed with pesticides (such as those found at florists') should never be eaten. Some of the more popular edible flowers are: the peppery-flavored nasturtiums; chive blossoms, which taste like a mild, sweet onion; pansies and violas, both with a flavor reminiscent of grapes; and perfumy, sweet roses. Other edible flowers include: almond, apple, borage, chamomile, lavender, lemon, lovage, mimosa, orange, peach, plum and squash blossoms, chrysanthemums, daisies, geraniums, jasmine, lilacs, marigolds, and violets. Edible flowers may be used culinarily in a variety of ways. They make colorful, striking garnishes for drinks as well as food for everything from salads to soups to desserts. Some of the larger flowers such as squash blossoms can be stuffed and deep-fried.
Flummery
1. A sweet soft pudding made of stewed fruit (usually berries) thickened with cornstarch. 2. Old-time British flummeries were made by cooking oatmeal until smooth and gelatinous; sweetener and milk were sometimes added. In the 18th century, the dish became a gelatin-thickened, cream- or milk-based dessert, flavored generously with sherry or Madeira.
Flute
to make a decorative edge on pastry. Also to cut vegetables, fruit or other foods in a decorative manner. Also a long loaf of French bread.
flying fish; flyingfish
Members of the family Exocoetidae, which are commonly found in tropical waters, especially throughout the Caribbean. The name of this fish comes from its ability to soar through the air for great distances, sometimes up to almost 350 yards. To manage this feat, the flying fish builds up speed in the water, then leaps into the air, extending its large, stiff pectoral fins, which act like wings. Flying fish are good food fish with a firm texture and a pleasant, savory flavor. See also fish.
Focaccia
This Italian bread begins by being shaped into a large, flat round that is liberally brushed or drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt. Slits cut into the dough's surface may be stuffed with fresh rosemary before the bread is baked. Focaccia can be eaten as a snack, or served as an accompaniment to soups or salads.
Foie Gras
an hors doeuvres of seasoned livers of geese, duck, chicken, or veal made into a pâté.
Foil, aluminum foil
a thin pliable sheet of aluminum; easily molded, conducts heat well, can withstand temperature extremes and is impervious to odors, moisture and air; used to cover foods for cooking and storage.
Fold
to gently combine one ingredient with another ingredient (as in folding dry ingredients into moist ingredients) by using two motions, cutting vertically through the mixture with a spoon or spatula and gently turning the ingredients over on top of each other, rotating the bowl 1/4 turn with each stroke. The term often is used in instructions relating to whipped cream and beaten egg whites.
Fold in
to mix food without releasing air bubbles by lifting a part of the liquid from the very bottom of the bowl through the rest of the mixture to the top until the foods are blended.
fold, to
A technique used to gently combine a light, airy mixture (such as beaten egg whites) with a heavier mixture (such as whipped cream or custard). The lighter mixture is placed on top of the heavier one in a large bowl. Starting at the back of the bowl, a rubber spatula is used to cut down vertically through the two mixtures, across the bottom of the bowl and up the nearest side. The bowl is rotated a quarter turn with each series of strokes. This down-across-up-and-over motion gently turns the mixtures over on top of each other, combining them in the process.
fond
A French term used in culinary parlance for "stock." There are three primary fonds in classic French cooking: fond blanc ("white stock"), made from veal and poultry meat and bones and vegetables; fond brun ("brown stock"), made with browned beef, veal and poultry meat and bones and vegetables; and fond de vegetal ("vegetable stock"), made with butter-sautéed vegetables. See also fumet.
Fondant
a sweet, thick opaque sugar paste commonly used for glazing pastries or making candies.
Fondue
a melted sauce, usually with cheese, served with crisp bread rounds or as a filling. These are sauces kept hot in a chaffing dish into which crisp chunks of bread, vegetables, meat, or fruits are dipped before eating. Chocolate fondue with fruit chunks and berries is a sweet fondue that is excellent. Fondue means melted.
Fontina Cheese
An Italian semifirm, yet creamy cheese made from cow's-milk. Its interior is pale yellow in color and is dotted with tiny holes and its rind is a dark yellowish brown. It has a mild, nutty flavor and melts easily and smoothly, making it a good choice for use in most cooking. Although fontina cheese (also called Fontina Val d'Aosta after the Italian valley from whence it came) is an Italian cheese, other countries including Denmark, France and the United States also make fontina cheese but they tend to be blander and softer (especially when younger) than the Italian original.
Food Chopper
a knife created for efficiency. It is double-handled and crescent-shaped, used with a rocking motion to rapidly chop and dice. In Italy it is known as a mezzaluna. Less useful today, since food processors do much of this work.
food coloring
Dyes of various colors (most commonly blue, green, red and yellow) used to tint foods such as frostings and candies. The most familiar form of food coloring is liquid, which comes in little bottles available at any supermarket. Food coloring paste, which comes in a wider variety of colors, can usually only be found in specialty stores such as cake-decorating shops. It's particularly suitable for mixtures that do not combine readily with liquid, such as white chocolate. A little of any food coloring goes a long way, so it's best to begin with only a drop or two, blending it into the mixture being tinted before adding more.
Food Mill
A kitchen utensil best described as a mechanical sieve. It has a hand-turned paddle that forces food through a strainer plate at the bottom, thereby removing skin, seeds and fiber. Some food mills come equipped with several interchangeable plates with small, medium and large holes.
Food Processor
This kitchen appliance was brought to the United States from France in the 1970s and has since revolutionized a majority of home kitchens. It consists of a sturdy plastic work bowl that sits on a motorized drive shaft. The cover of the bowl has a feed tube through which foods can be added. An expanded feed tube large enough for some whole items such as a tomato or onion is available with some machines. The food processor is efficient and speedy and can easily chop, dice, slice, shred, grind and puree most food. The larger machines can also knead dough. Most processors come with a standard set of attachments including an S-shaped chopping blade and several disks for slicing and shredding. There are special attachments including juicers and pasta makers, as well as accessories such as French-fry cutters, julienne disks and beaters. Food processors range from large to small in motor size and bowl capacity.
Fool
England is the home of this old-fashioned but delicious dessert made of cooked, pureed fruit that is strained, chilled and folded into whipped cream. The fruit mixture may be sweetened or not. Fool is traditionally made from gooseberries, though today any fruit may be substituted.
Forcemeat
finely ground meat often combined with ground vegetables to make a stuffing or combined with stiffly beaten egg whites to make delicate quenelles for poaching and serving with sauce. Also, combined with custard-like sauce to make soufflés.
forestière, à la
French term meaning "of the forest," referring to dishes (usually poultry, meat or game fowl) garnished with butter-sautéed potatoes or potato balls, cured meat and wild mushrooms such as chanterelles, morels and porcini.
Formaggio
Italian for cheese.
Formosa Oolong tea
Hailing from Taiwan (previously known as Formosa), this tea is considered one of the world's best, which also makes it quite expensive. It creates a pale yellow brew that has a flavor reminiscent of peaches. See also tea.
forno, al
Forno is Italian for "oven," and this term refers culinarily to dishes baked in the oven.
fortified wine
A wine to which brandy (or other spirit) has been added in order to increase alcoholic content. Such wines include port, sherry and many dessert wines.
fortune cookie
This Chinese-American invention consists of a plain, griddle-baked wafer cookie that, while warm, is folded around a small strip of paper with a fortune printed on it. The cooled cookie becomes crisp and must be broken in order to retrieve the fortune.
fouet
French for "whisk."
fowl
The term fowl is used generally to refer to any edible, mature, wild or domestic bird. Specifically, a fowl (also called hen or stewing chicken ) is a female chicken over 10 months old and usually weighing 3 to 6 pounds. Because of its age, a fowl is best when cooked with moist heat, as in braising.
Fra diavlo
Dishes featuring a devilishly spicy marinara sauce.
Fra diavolo
Generally describes tomato-based sauces that are spiced with chiles
fraise
The French word for "strawberry."
fraise des bois
1. Intensely sweet, tiny wild strawberries from France. 2. A colorless, strawberry-flavored eau de vie.
Framboise
French for raspberry.
Frangelico
A hazelnut-flavored liqueur enhanced with a secret formula of flower and berry essences.
frangipane
1. A type of pastry made with egg yolks, flour, butter and milk that is very similar to choux pastry. Baked frangipane puffs are often filled with forcemeat. 2. A rich crème Pâtissière flavored with ground almonds and used as a filling or topping for various pastries and cakes. Also called frangipani.
Frangipani
a rich, sweet cream name for a tropical flower with a sweet scent.
frankfurter
This smoked, seasoned, precooked sausage also known as hot dog, wiener and frank is America's favorite. Frankfurters can be made from beef, veal, chicken or turkey. They may have casings or not and can contain up to 30 percent fat and 10 percent added water. They range in size from the tiny "cocktail frank" to the famous foot-long giants. The most common size is about 6 inches long. Frankfurters labeled "beef" or "all-beef" must, by law, contain only beef; fillers like soybean protein and dry milk solids are forbidden. Kosher frankfurters are all-beef sausages, usually liberally seasoned with garlic. Those labeled "meat" can't contain fillers either, but can be made with a combination of meats. Sausages simply labeled "frankfurters" can contain up to 3 1/2 percent fillers and are usually made from a combination of meats. Almost all frankfurters contain sodium nitrate and sodium nitrite, chemical salts that are reported to be carcinogenic. To store frankfurters, refrigerate in original package up until the manufacturer's pull date. Although precooked, frankfurters benefit from heating and may be prepared in a variety of ways including grilling, frying, steaming and braising. See also hot dog; pigs in blankets; sausage.
Frappé
a drink whipped with ice to make a thick, frosty consistency.
free-range
Poultry or animals allowed to roam and feed without confinement, as opposed to the majority of commercially bred animals, which are caged. See also chicken.
freestone
A term used to describe fruit that has a pit to which the flesh does not cling, as in a freestone peach. See also clingstone.
Freeze
to subject food to a temperature below 32° (0*C) so that the moisture in the food solidifies; used as a preservation method.
freezer burn
Frozen food that has been either improperly wrapped or frozen can suffer from freezer burn a loss of moisture that affects both texture and flavor. Freezer burn is indicated by a dry surface, which may also have white or gray spots on it.
Freezer Paper
a plastic-coated Kraft paper used for wrapping foods for freezing and for general household purposes. The plastic coating provides a barrier to air and moisture to protect the quality, flavor and nutrition of foods during freezing; the paper provides strength and durability as well as an easy-to-write-on surface.
freezer/refrigerator thermometer
A kitchen tool that registers temperatures from about -20° to 80°F. This thermometer is important because frozen food that's not maintained at 0°F or below will begin to deteriorate, thereby losing both quality and nutrients. Likewise, fresh food risks potential spoilage if refrigerated at a temperature higher than 40°F. A freezer/refrigerator thermometer should be positioned near the top and front of the freezer and left there for at least 6 hours (without opening the door) before the temperature is checked. If the thermometer's temperature doesn't read 0°F or below, adjust the freezer's temperature regulator and check in another 6 hours. Refrigerator temperature may be checked in the same way. See also candy thermometer; meat thermometer; oven thermometer.
French bean
Any young, green string bean, all of which (including the pod) can be eaten. Frenched or French green beans are those that have been cut lengthwise into very thin strips. See also beans.
French bread
A light, crusty, yeast-raised bread made with water instead of milk. The dark brown, intensely crisp crust is created by brushing or spraying the loaf's exterior with water during the baking process. French bread comes in many shapes, including the classic long, thin baguette, rounds and fat ovals.
French Colombard
One of California's top two white-wine grapes, French Colombard is used extensively in blending as well as for a varietal wine. It produces a crisp, moderately dry, spicy wine that goes well with lightly seasoned dishes. It should be drunk young (under 4 years) and always served chilled.
French dressing
1. A simple oil-and-vinegar combination, usually seasoned with salt, pepper and various herbs. This classic dressing is also referred to as vinaigrette. 2. A commercial American dressing that is creamy, tartly sweet and red-orange in color.
french fries
Potatoes that have been cut into thick to thin strips, soaked in cold water, blotted dry, then deep-fried until crisp and golden brown. They are called pommes frites in France and chips in Britain. The name does not come from the fact that their origin is French, but because the potatoes are "frenched" cut into lengthwise strips. Other versions of french-fried potatoes are shoestring potatoes (matchstick-wide) and steak fries (very thick strips).
French Fry
to cook food in deep hot fat.
French Toast
American breakfast of sliced bread dipped into beaten eggs and milk and then cooked on top a stove.
french, to
1. To cut a vegetable or meat lengthwise into very thin strips. Beans and potatoes are two vegetables that are commonly "frenched." 2. To cut the meat away from the end of a rib or chop, so that part of the bone is exposed.
Fresh
1. A food that has not been frozen. 2. A food that has been recently produced, such as a loaf of bread. 3. A food as grown or harvested; not canned, dried or processed and containing no preservatives.
Fresno chile
Short and cone-shaped, the Fresno is as hot as the more well-known jalapeño chile. It ranges in color from light green to bright red when fully mature. Because of its heat, the Fresno is best used in small amounts as a seasoning. See also chile.
Friandise
A French term for confections — such as truffles, mints or petits fours — served after the dessert course.
Fricassee
a stew, usually of poultry or veal.
fried rice
An Asian dish of rice that has been cooked and refrigerated for a day before being fried with other ingredients, such as small pieces of meat and vegetables, and seasonings such as soy sauce. An egg is also often added to the mix. The name of the rice depends on the main ingredient (besides rice), such as "chicken" fried rice, "beef" fried rice and so on.
fries
1. Abbreviated term for french fries. 2. Another name for mountain oysters.
Frijoles
Mexican beans.
frill
A decorative, fluted paper "sock" that is slipped over a protruding meat bone, such as in a crown roast.
Frisée
A curly, mildly bitter member of the chicory family, eaten raw in salads.
Frisee
French for curly, but usually refers to curly endive, the bitter salad green of the chicory family.
Frittata
An Italian omelette with a variety of fillings that are mixed with the eggs rather than being folded inside. Like a Spanish omelette, a frittata is cut into wedges and can be eaten either hot or cold.
Fritter
vegetable or fruit dipped into, or combined with, batter and fried.
fritto
Italian for "fried."
fritto misto
Italian for "mixed fried (food)" or "mixed fry," fritto misto is a selection of small, bite-size pieces of meat, fish or vegetables, dipped in a batter and deep-fried.
frizzes
A dry Italian beef salami flavored with garlic and anise. Its name comes from its squiggly, contorted shape. The hot style is corded with red string and the mild (or "sweet") is corded with blue string. Frizzes are most often used as a garnish, as on pizza or in pasta. See also sausage.
frizzle
To fry thinly sliced meat over high heat until crisp and slightly curly in shape.
froid
The French word for "cold" or "chilled."
fromage
French for "cheese."
fromage blanc
An extremely soft, fresh cream cheese that has the consistency of sour cream. Fromage blanc is usually eaten with fruit and sugar as dessert, but can also be used in cooking. See also cheese.
frost
1. In cooking, frost means to cover and decorate a cake with a frosting or icing. 2. To chill a glass in the freezer until it's frosted with a thin coating of ice crystals.
Frosting
a cooked or uncooked sugar mixture used to cover and decorate cakes, cookies and other foods.
frothy
A descriptive cooking term referring to mixtures that are foamy, having a formation of tiny, light bubbles.
fructose
Also called fruit sugar and levulose, this extremely sweet substance is a natural by-product of fruits and honey. It's more water-soluble than glucose and sweeter than sucrose (though it contains half the calories). Unlike glucose, it can be used by diabetics. Fructose comes in granulated and syrup forms. Except in the case of some liquids, such as a sauce or beverage, it should not be substituted for regular sugar (sucrose) unless a recipe gives specific substitution. When heated, fructose loses some of its sweetening power.
fruit beer
Mild ales flavored with fruit concentrates. See also beer.
Fruit Butter
a sweet spread made of fruit cooked to a paste then lightly sweetened. Apple butter is a common example.
fruit cocktail
A mixture of various chopped fruits, served chilled as an appetizer. Any combination of fruit can be used, though a mixture of tart fruit (such as oranges and pineapples) and sweet fruit (peaches, melons or berries) is most appealing. The fruit may be spiced or drizzled with champagne or liqueur for added flavor. Canned fruit cocktail is available, although the flavors of the individual fruits are barely discernible.
fruit leather; fruit roll-up
Pureed fruit that is spread in a thin layer and dried. The puree sometimes has sugar or honey added to it. After drying, the sheet of fruit is often cut into strips or rolled into cylinders for easy snacking. Rolls of fruit leather in a variety of flavors are available in health-food stores and most supermarkets. It can also be made at home.
fruit soup
A Scandinavian specialty of cooked, pureed fruit combined with water, wine, milk or cream, spices and other flavorings. Danish apple soup is made, for example, with apples, cloves, lemon juice, wine, cream, sugar and curry powder. Though sugar is added to most fruit soups, they are not generally overly sweet. They may be served hot or cold.
fruitcake
Traditional winter holiday cakes made with an assortment of candied fruit and fruit rind, nuts, spices and usually liquor or brandy. Fruitcakes can have a moderate amount of cake surrounding the chunky ingredients, or only enough to hold the fruits and nuts together. Dark fruitcakes are generally made with molasses or brown sugar and dark liquor such as bourbon. Dark-colored fruits and nuts, such as prunes, dates, raisins and walnuts, may also contribute to the blend. Light fruitcakes are generally made with granulated sugar or light corn syrup and light ingredients such as almonds, dried apricots, golden raisins, etc. Fruitcakes are baked slowly and, after cooling, usually covered in cheesecloth moistened with liquor or brandy and tightly wrapped in foil. Stored in this manner, they have tremendous staying power and, providing they are occasionally remoistened, can be kept for years.
fruits de mer
The French term translating as "fruits of the sea," referring to a combination of fish.
Frumenty
a popular food in English history, it is a rich, sweet porridge high in vitamins A and B.
Fry
to cook in fat (a) Pan-Fry - To cook in small amount of fat. (b) Deep-Fat Fry - To cook in enough fat to completely cover food while cooking.
fry bread
This specialty of many Southwest Indians (mainly Navajo and Hopi) is made of flour, water or milk and salt. It's formed into very thin rounds, deep-fried and served hot. It can be eaten with savory foods or drizzled with honey and enjoyed as a sweet.
frying pan
Also called a skillet, this long-handled, usually round pan has low, gently sloping sides so steam doesn't collect within the pan. It's used for frying foods over high heat, so it should be thick enough not to warp and should be able to conduct heat evenly. Frying pans come in various sizes, usually 8, 10 and 12 inches in diameter. Electric frying pans or skillets are often square or oblong in shape. Their heat is controlled by an adjustable thermostat unit that can be detached when the skillet is washed.
fu
A Japanese specialty made of dried wheat gluten made into a spongy dough. Fu is available fully cooked (roasted, deep-fried or baked), partially cooked and fresh or fresh-frozen. It's sometimes colored and comes in a variety of shapes including namu fu (fresh gluten cakes), yaki fu (cubes that have been roasted and dried) and kohana fu (little flower shapes that are cooked and dried and frequently used in instant noodle mixes). Fu is used in numerous Japanese dishes such as soups and other simmered dishes.
fudge
A creamy, semisoft candy most often made with sugar, butter or cream, corn syrup and various flavorings. The most popular fudge flavor is chocolate, though maple (made with maple syrup), butterscotch (made with brown sugar or dark corn syrup) and vanilla are also favorites. Fudge can be plain and perfectly smooth or it may contain other ingredients such as nuts, chocolate chips, candied or dried fruit, etc. It may be cooked or uncooked, but both styles must be allowed to set before cutting.
fugu
The Japanese name for certain species of puffer fish or blowfish, which, though considered delicacies, contain a poison so toxic it can kill. It's so imperative that fugu be cleaned and prepared properly that entire books have been written on the subject. In commercial Japanese kitchens, where this fish is used in both sashimi and nabemono preparations, only qualified cooks may deal with fugu. See also fish.
Fumé
French for "smoked."
Fumet
a concentrated stock used to give body to sauces.
Fundido
Spanish for
funghi
Italian for "mushrooms."
funnel cake
This pastry is a Pennsylvania Dutch specialty made by pouring batter through a funnel into hot, deep fat and frying the resulting spirals until crisp and brown. Funnel cakes are served hot, often with sugar or maple syrup.
fusille; fusilli
A spiraled spaghetti that can range from about 1 1/2 to 12 inches long. See also pasta.
fuzzy melon
Of Chinese origin, this cylindrical (6 to 10 inches long, 2 to 3 inches thick) melon has a medium green skin covered with fine, hairlike fuzz. Its creamy-colored, medium-firm flesh is mildly flavored and has a tendency to take on the flavor of whatever food it's cooked with. Fuzzy melons also called hairy melons and fuzzy squash can be purchased in Asian markets and some specialty produce markets. Choose those that are fairly heavy for their size with wrinkle-free skins. Store ripe melons in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Fuzzy melons must be peeled before using. They're a popular addition to Chinese soups and stir-fries.
fuzzy navel
A cocktail made with orange juice and peach schnapps. The name is a conflation of peach "fuzz" and "navel" orange.
Gâteau
French cake.
gâteau
The French word for "cake," which can refer to those both plain and fancy.
génoise
This rich, light cake is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and vanilla. It's similar in texture to a moist sponge cake. It was developed in Genoa, Italy, adapted by the French and is now baked by gourmet cooks throughout Europe and the United States. Génoise is an extremely versatile cake and is used for many elegant presentations such as petits fours, cake rolls and baked alaska.
güero chile
The generic term for yellow chiles such as hungarian wax or santa fe grande. See also chile.
galangal; galanga root; galingale
A rhizome with a hot, ginger-peppery flavor, galangal is used primarily as a seasoning. Greater galangal, also called Laos ginger, Siamese ginger and Thai ginger, is the best known and most widely available. It grows throughout Southeast Asia and is particularly popular in Thai cooking. This creamy white-fleshed rhizome is often used as a substitute for ginger. Laos is the name given to the powdered form of greater galangal, which is slightly more intense than the fresh form. Greater galangel can be found in Asian markets. Lesser galangal has an orangish flesh and a much stronger, hotter flavor. It's not as well known and is seldom seen in the United States.
Galantine
a cold jellied dish of boned chicken, veal, game or fish.
Galette
A round, flat cake or tart.
Galliano
A sweet, anise-flavored, golden yellow liqueur made in Italy.
gallimaufry
Culinarily, this word refers to any dish with a hodgepodge of ingredients, such as a stew, ragoût or hash.
Gallon
an American unit of measurement equal to 128 fluid ounces; contains 8 pints (16 fluid ounces each).
Game
wild animals and birds hunted for sport. Cooked, they are leaner and less fat-sweetened than domestic animals.
game animals
A term applied to wild animals that are deemed suitable for human consumption. Some species are now domesticated and because their diets and activity levels are changed, their meat has a different flavor than that of field animals. Game animals are categorized as large game and small game. The most common large game meat is venison, which, though commonly thought of as deer, is a term that broadly includes the meat from elk, moose, reindeer, caribou and antelope. Other popular large game animals include buffalo and goats.
game birds
Any wild bird suitable for food, including the larger species (such as wild turkey and goose), medium-sized birds (including pheasant and wild duck) and smaller game birds (such as the coot, dove, grouse, hazel hen, lark, mud hen, partridge, pigeon, plover, quail, rail, snipe, thrush and woodcock). Except for the few raised on game farms (which are usually expensive), game birds are not readily available. Those that are found in markets are usually of good quality. Most game birds are sold frozen; some of the smaller birds are canned. Factors affecting quality include the age of the bird and the manner in which it was treated after it was killed. Quality birds should have no off odor; the skin should be fresh-looking, not dull or dry. Young birds are best and can be identified by their pliable breastbone, feet and legs; their claws will be sharp. Wild birds are much leaner than the domesticated variety. Because of a lack of natural fat particularly in younger birds they must be basted, barded or larded before roasting. Older birds are best cooked with slow, moist heat such as braising, or used in soups or stews.
Ganache
A rich mixture of chocolate and créme fraîche frequently used as a filling for cakes.
garam masala
Garam is the Indian word for "warm" or "hot," and this blend of dry-roasted, ground spices from the colder climes of northern India adds a sense of "warmth" to both palate and spirit. There are as many variations of garam masala (which may contain up to 12 spices) as there are Indian cooks. It can include black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, cardamom, dried chiles, fennel, mace, nutmeg and other spices. Garam masala may be purchased in Indian markets and in the gourmet section of some supermarkets. It's also easily prepared at home, but should be made in small batches to retain its freshness. As with all spices, it should be stored in a cool, dry place for no more than 6 months. Garam masala is usually either added to a dish toward the end of cooking or sprinkled over the surface just before serving.
Garbanzo bean
another name for chickpea.
Garbure
a casserole or stew made of cabbage, beans, potatoes and smoked meat.
garde manger
A French term for the cool, well-ventilated pantry area (usually in hotels and large restaurants) where cold buffet dishes are prepared and other foods are stored in refrigerated units. Some of the items prepared in a garde manger are salads, pâtés, chaud-froids and other decorative dishes. The person in charge of this area is known as chef garde manger.
Garlic
a member of the lily family (Allium sativum); the highly aromatic and strongly flavored edible bulb (called a head) is covered in a papery layer and is composed of several sections (called cloves), each of which is also covered with a papery membrane; used as a distinctive flavoring in cuisines around the world.
garlic bread
Said to have been invented during the late 1940s boom of Italian-American restaurants, garlic bread consists of Italian or French bread slices, spread on both sides with garlic butter and heated in the oven. There are many variations, including bread brushed with olive oil and sprinkled with minced garlic and herbs. It can also be broiled or grilled.
garlic butter
Softened butter blended with crushed or minced garlic. The intensity of the garlic flavor is governed by the amount of garlic used and the length of time the mixture is allowed to stand. Garlic butter is used on a broad range of foods including garlic bread, escargots, meats, poultry, fish and vegetables.
garlic chives
An herb similar to chives, but with a decidedly garlicky nuance, both in aroma and flavor. Garlic chive leaves have long, thin, flat stems, whereas the stalks with flowers are round and more closely resemble regular chives. Open flowers, though beautiful, are a signal that the chives were picked from a more mature plant and will not be as tender as those with unopened buds. Garlic chives can be found in Asian markets and many gourmet produce markets. Store them in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. They may be snipped with scissors to the desired length and used in both fresh and cooked dishes. Garlic chives are also called Chinese chives and ku chai.
Garlic Powder
finely ground dehydrated garlic; used as a seasoning; also known as powdered garlic.
garlic press
A kitchen tool used to press a garlic clove through small holes, thereby extracting both pulp and juice. Leaving the skin on the clove facilitates cleaning, which should be done immediately after pressing, before any garlic left in the press dries. The press can also be set in a cup of warm water until cleaning time. Some presses contain teeth that push garlic fragments back out through the holes, making cleaning much easier. Garlic presses can be made of aluminum, stainless steel and strong plastics.
garni
The French word for "garnish" when used as an adjective describing a food. For example, "steak garni" usually means it's accompanied by vegetables and potatoes.
Garnish
to enhance a dish before serving with an edible decoration or accompaniment, which is appealing to the eye and complements the flavors of the dish.
garniture
The French word for "garnish," used as a noun.
garum
The ancient Romans used garum as a flavoring much like salt. This extremely pungent sauce was made by fermenting fish in a brine solution for several days in the sun. The resulting liquid was combined with various other flavorings such as oil, pepper, wine and spices. See also fish sauce.
gaspergoo; gaspergou
A freshwater drum that inhabits deep rivers and lakes throughout the United States. Also known as goo or gou, this fish has a white, lean flesh with a succulently sweet flavor. Gaspergoo is most commonly available in the spring and summer months. It's suitable for frying, grilling, pan-frying or steaming. See also fish.
Gastrique
a French term meaning to form a glaze by reduction. Some of the more common gastriques are the tarragon, pepper shallot and vinegar reductions for a classic bearnaise sauce or the red wine, herb and pepper reduction for a poivrade sauce.
gastronome
A connoisseur of good food someone with a refined palate.
gastronomy
The art of fine dining; the science of gourmet food and drink.
Gâteaux; Gateaux
1. French for cake. 2. In the United States, any cake-type dessert. 3. In France, various pastry items made with puff pastry, éclair paste, short dough or sweet dough.
Gaufrette
Thin, fan-shaped, waffled wafers.
Gazpacho
an iced soup made with fresh ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers, onions, and seasonings, marinated overnight. Mexican in origin.
Gefilte Fish
a traditional Jewish dish of poached stuffed fish, whole or in balls, served hot of cold.
gelatin
An odorless, tasteless and colorless thickening agent, which when dissolved in hot water and then cooled, forms a jelly. It's useful for many purposes such as jelling molded desserts and salads, thickening cold soups and glazing chaud-froid preparations. Granulated gelatin is the most common form of unsweetened commercial gelatin on the market. It's packaged in boxes of 1/4-ounce envelopes and is also available in bulk. Generally, 1 envelope of gelatin will jell 2 cups of liquid. It's important to soak gelatin in cold liquid (whatever the recipe directs) for 3 to 5 minutes before dissolving it. This softens and swells the gelatin granules so they will dissolve smoothly when heated. Not as readily available as granulated gelatin is leaf (or sheet) gelatin, which comes in packages of paper-thin sheets. Four sheets of leaf gelatin equal one package of powdered gelatin. Leaf gelatin must be soaked longer than granulated gelatin and is therefore not as popular. This product is often called for in jelled European dessert reci-pes. It can be found in some gourmet and bakery supply shops. Sweetened gelatin dessert mix is also available in various artificial fruit flavors.
gelato
The Italian word for "ice cream," gelato doesn't contain as much air as its American counterpart and therefore has a denser texture. An Italian ice cream parlor is called a gelateria.
gem pan; mini muffin pan
A miniature muffin pan designed (depending on the pan) to make 12 to 24 tiny muffins about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. "Gem" is an old-fashioned reference to a small (nonyeast) bread or cake.
gemelli
Italian for "twins," referring culinarily to short, 1 1/2-inch twists that resemble two strands of spaghetti twisted together. See also pasta.
genevoise, sauce
This classic sauce for fish combines a mirepoix and brown sauce with red wine and fish fumet. The mixture is cooked, reduced and strained, after which anchovy paste, butter and minced mushrooms are added.
Genoese
a light cake made of eggs, sugar, butter and cake flour. Genoese is known for its versatility. It can be used for baked alaska, lady fingers, an iced birthday cake.
Genoese, alla; Genovese, alla
Italian for "as prepared in the style of Genoa," a seaport city in northwest Italy. Specifically, it means a dish made or accompanied with pesto sauce, which originated in Genoa.
germ
In the food world, the word "germ" refers to a grain (like wheat) kernel's nucleus or embryo. Wheat germ is one of the more commercially popular types on the market. The nutritiously endowed germ furnishes thiamine, vitamin E, iron and riboflavin.
German potato salad
A smoked meat-studded potato salad made with a dressing of oil, vinegar, seasonings and sometimes sugar. German potato salad can be served hot, cold or at room temperature. Favorite additions include minced onion, celery and green pepper.
Gervais cheese
The most well-known brand of petit suisse, made in Normandy and named for Jules Gervais, a famous French cheesemaker. See also cheese.
Gewürztraminer
The German word Gewürz means "spicy," and this white wine is known for its crisp, spicy characteristics. It's a specialty of the French region Alsace the area that buffers Germany and France and is also produced in Germany and California. Gewürztraminer has a distinctively pungent, perfumy, yet clean flavor. It's available in varying degrees of sweetness; the drier versions complement fish and poultry, the slightly sweeter styles are perfect for summer spritzers, and the sweet late-harvest versions make excellent dessert wines. Gewürztraminer is best when drunk fairly young because even the vintage versions won't usually age well over 5 years.
Ghee
clarified butter used in Indian cooking.
Gherkin
small cucumber species 1 1/2 inches long, for pickling.
gianduja
Hailing from Switzerland, gianduja is a silky-smooth, hazelnut-flavored chocolate that comes in several styles including milk chocolate and bittersweet chocolate. It's available in gourmet markets and through mail order.
giardiniera, alla
From the Italian giardiniere ("gardener"), culinarily this term refers to dishes served with mixed sliced vegetables.
Giblets
the heart, liver, gizzard and neck of fowl and small game, used to make stews, soups and specialty dishes.
Gibson
Named for the famous American "Gibson Girl" illustrator, Charles Dana Gibson, this cocktail is identical to the martini (gin and dry vermouth), differing only in that it is served garnished with a tiny white onion instead of an olive.
Gigot
French term for a leg of lamb.
gimlet
A cocktail made with sugar syrup, lime juice, vodka or gin and sometimes soda water. According to the British, the secret of a good gimlet is thorough stirring.
gin
An unaged liquor made by distilling grains such as barley, corn or rye with juniper berries. London dry gin is any colorless gin, the majority of which is made in England and America. Hollands gin, also known as genever or jenever gin, is a Dutch product that tastes very different from other gins because it's made with a large proportion of barley malt. The first Dutch gin was used as medicine. See also sloe gin.
gin fizz
A cocktail made with gin, lemon juice, sugar and soda, served in a tall glass over ice. When an egg white is added, the drink is called a silver fizz. Adding orange-flower water and cream or milk to a silver fizz transforms it into a Ramos gin fizz, a New Orleans original created in the late 1800s by bar owner Henry Ramos.
ginger ale
A carbonated, ginger-flavored soft drink.
Ginger Beer
a milky alcoholic drink that is effervescent and ginger flavored. Made with gingerroot.
Ginger, Ginger root
the gnarled, bumpy rhizome (called a hand) of a tall flowering tropical plant (Zingerber officinale) native to China; has a tan skin, ivory to greenish-yellow flesh, a peppery, fiery, slightly sweet flavor with notes of lemon and rosemary and a spicy, pungent aroma; used to flavor beverages and in sweet and savory dishes in Asian and Indian cuisines; available fresh, powdered, preserved in sugar, crystallized, candied or pickled.
ginger; gingerroot
A plant from tropical and subtropical regions that's grown for its gnarled and bumpy root. Most ginger comes from Jamaica, followed by India, Africa and China. Gingerroot's name comes from the Sanskrit word for "horn root," undoubtedly referring to its knobby appearance. It has a tan skin and a flesh that ranges in color from pale greenish yellow to ivory. The flavor is peppery and slightly sweet, while the aroma is pungent and spicy. This extremely versatile root has long been a mainstay in Asian and Indian cooking and found its way early on into European foods as well. The Chinese, Japanese and East Indians use fresh gingerroot in a variety of forms grated, ground and slivered in many savory dishes. Europeans and most Americans, however, are more likely to use the dried ground form of ginger, usually in baked goods. Fresh ginger is available in two forms young and mature. Young ginger, sometimes called spring ginger, has a pale, thin skin that requires no peeling. It's very tender and has a milder flavor than its mature form. Young ginger can be found in most Asian markets during the springtime. Mature ginger has a tough skin that must be carefully peeled away to preserve the delicate, most desirable flesh just under the surface. Look for mature ginger with smooth skin (wrinkled skin indicates that the root is dry and past its prime). It should have a fresh, spicy fragrance. Fresh unpeeled gingerroot, tightly wrapped, can be refrigerated for up to 3 weeks and frozen for up to 6 months. To use frozen ginger, slice off a piece of the unthawed root and return the rest to the freezer. Place peeled gingerroot in a screw-top glass jar, cover with dry sherry or madeira and refrigerate up to 3 months. The wine will impart some of its flavor to the ginger a minor
gingerbread
This sweet dates back to the Middle Ages, when fair ladies presented the rather hard, honey-spice bread as a favor to dashing knights going into tournament battle. In those days, gingerbread was intricately shaped and decorated, sometimes with gold leaf. Today, gingerbread generally refers to one of two desserts. It can be a dense, ginger-spiced cookie flavored with molasses or honey and cut into fanciful shapes (such as the popular gingerbread man). Or, particularly in the United States, it can describe a dark, moist cake flavored with molasses, ginger and other spices. This gingerbread "cake" is usually baked in a square pan and often topped with lemon sauce or whipped cream.
gingersnap
A small, very crisp ginger cookie flavored with molasses.
ginkgo nut
This buff-colored, delicately sweet nut comes from the center of the inedible fruit of the maidenhair tree, a native of China. Fresh ginkgo nuts are available during fall and winter and can be found in many Asian and gourmet markets. Their hard shells must be removed with a nutcracker and the nutmeats soaked in hot water to loosen their skins. Ginkgo nuts are also available dried or canned in brine. The canned nuts must be rinsed of brine before using. Ginkgo nuts, which turn bright green when cooked, are particularly popular in Japanese cooking. See also nuts.
ginseng
The Chinese name for this sweet licorice-flavored root is "human-shaped root" and indeed some have extraordinarily human shapes. This rather amazing plant has been credited for centuries with being everything from an aphrodisiac to a restorative. Recent scientific discoveries have linked ginseng to the treatment of high blood pressure. It's referred to as white ginseng when simply sun-dried. When steamed and dried over a fire or with other heat, it takes on a reddish tinge and is called red ginseng. Ginseng is used in soups, for tea and as a medicinal. It's available in Asian markets and some health-food stores.
Girolle
The French name for a chanterelle.
Gizzard
part of the alimentary canal of fowl, whose function is to grind food, sometimes with pebbles swallowed for this purpose.
gjetost cheese
Made from a combination of goat's- and cow's-milk whey, this Norwegian cheese is faintly sweet and caramel colored. The texture can range from semifirm like fudge to the consistency of stiff peanut butter. The brown color and sweetness result from slowly cooking the milk until its sugars caramelize. Gjetost is particularly good spread on dark bread. Scandinavia's mysost cheese (also called primost ) is made exclusively from cow's milk in exactly the same way and tastes almost identical to gjetost. See also cheese.
glögg
Especially popular during Advent, this Swedish spiced-wine punch gets its punch from the addition of aquavit or brandy. To take the chill off cold winter nights, it's served hot in cups with several almonds and raisins added to each serving.
Glacé
to glaze with sugar syrup; also, to serve iced.
glace de viande
French for "meat glaze," glace de viande is made by boiling meat juices until they are reduced to a thick syrup. It's used to add flavor and color to sauces.
Glayva
This Scottish liqueur is made with scotch whisky, honey and a well-guarded herbal formula.
Glaze
any shiny coating applied to a food or created by browning. In meat preparation, a jelled broth applied to meat surface; in breads and pastries, a wash of egg or syrup; for doughnuts and cakes, a sugar preparation for coating.
Glogg
hot wine cup served at Christmas; Swedish.
Gloucester cheese
Also called double Gloucester, this dense, satiny, golden yellow cheese is one of England's finest. It was once made only with the milk from Gloucester cows (now almost extinct) and until the end of World War ii single (smaller) Gloucester rounds were also available. The mellow, full-flavored double Gloucester comes in large, flat rounds or tall cylinders both with a natural rind. It's a fine, multipurpose cheese equally as good with a meal or after it. See also cheese.
Glucose
also, dextrose. A natural sugar found in fruits, vegetables, honey and other products.
Gluten
a water-soluble protein found in flour. Kneading flour in bread-making brings out the smooth elastic qualities of the gluten content.
glycerin; glycerine
The commercial name for glycerol, a colorless, odorless, syrupy liquid chemically, an alcohol obtained from fats and oils and used to retain moisture and add sweetness to foods. It also helps prevent sugar crystallization in foods like candy. Outside the world of food, glycerin is used in cosmetics, inks and certain glues.
Gnocchi
dumplings made from a paste of flour or potatoes and egg.
goat
Though goat meat has been enjoyed in southern Europe, Latin America and many Mediterranean countries for centuries, it has never really caught on in the United States. The meat of mature goats is extremely tough and strong-flavored. Most goat meat consumed comes from a kid, a baby goat that is usually not more than 6 months old. Kid meat is as tender and delicate as that of young lamb, and it can be prepared in any manner suitable for lamb. It can sometimes be found in specialty meat markets. Goats also provide milk, which is usually made into goat cheese, better known as chèvre. Fresh goat's milk can sometimes be purchased in health-food stores; canned goat's milk is carried in many supermarkets.
goatfish
Found in temperate to tropical seas, the goatfish is so named because of its two long chin barbels, which resemble a goat's whiskers. Probably the most famous member of this fish family is the superior red mullet, which is not a mullet at all. Depending on the species, goatfish can range in color from brilliant yellow to rose red. The meat is firm and lean and can be cooked in almost any manner including broiling, frying and baking. In the United States, goatfish is usually only available on the East Coast and throughout the Florida Keys. See also fish.
gohan
Japanese cooked white rice that has undergone a precooking process of washing, rinsing and soaking to remove as much starch as possible. This lengthy process can take up to an hour and reduces stickiness in the finished rice.
golden Cadillac
Named for its luxurious creamy texture and golden color, this cocktail is made with galliano, white crème de cacao and heavy cream.
Golden Delicious apple
This yellow to yellow-green apple has a sweet, rather bland flavor and juicy, crisp flesh that resists browning. Golden Delicious apples have a long season, usually from September to early June. They're a fairly good all-purpose apple though they do tend to lose some flavor when cooked. See also apple; red delicious apple.
golden nugget squash
A small (3 to 4 inches in diameter), pumpkin-shaped winter squash with a bright orange skin. The flesh, which is also orange, is sweet and slightly bland. Golden nugget squash is available from late summer through winter. Choose a squash that's heavy for its size. The skin should be colorful but have a dull finish (the latter indicates maturity). If the surface is shiny, the flesh will be flavorless. Golden nugget squash can be stored at room temperature for up to a month. It can be baked or steamed, either whole or halved. See also squash.
golden syrup
Particularly popular in England (where it's also known as light treacle), this liquid sweetener has the consistency of corn syrup and a clear golden color. It's made from evaporated sugar cane juice and has a rich, toasty flavor unmatched by any other sweetener. Golden syrup, the most readily available brand being Lyle's, can be found in some supermarkets and many gourmet markets. It can be used as a substitute for corn syrup in cooking and baking, and for everything from pancake syrup to ice cream topping.
Goldwasser
Also called Danziger Goldwasser, this full-bodied liqueur is flavored with caraway seed, orange peel and spices. Its name, which translates from German as "gold water," comes from the fact that it has minuscule flecks of gold leaf suspended in it. The gold leaf is harmless to drink.
goma
Japanese for "sesame seed." Shiro goma is unhulled white sesame seed, muki goma is hulled white seed and kuro goma is black sesame seed. Goma abura is sesame seed oil. All four products are available in Asian markets.
gomashio
Available in health-food stores and some Asian markets, gomashio is a seasoning composed of sea salt and toasted sesame seeds. See also goma.
goober
A derivative of the African word nguba, "goober" is a southern U.S. name for peanut. It's also referred to as a "goober pea."
goose
Any of many species of large, web-footed, wild or domestic birds. Geese are much larger than ducks, weighing from 5 to 18 pounds, compared to 3 to 5 1/2 pounds for a duck. The female of the species is simply known as a goose, a male as a gander, and a young goose of whichever sex as a gosling. Geese were bred in ancient Egypt, China and India. The Romans revered them because it was a noisy gaggle of geese that alerted 4th-century b.c. Romans that the enemy Gauls were about to attack. Geese are immensely popular in Europe, where they're traditional Christmas holiday fare in many countries. They're also renowned for two French specialties foie gras, the creamy-rich enlarged liver from force-fed geese, and confit, goose cooked and preserved in its own fat. Because geese are so fatty, they have not achieved the same popularity in America and therefore, though they're domesticated, have never been mass-marketed. The U.S. government grades the quality of geese with usda classifications A, B and C. The highest grade is A, and is generally what is found in markets. Grade B geese are less meaty and well finished; those that are grade C are not usually available to the consumer. The grade stamp can usually be found within a shield on the package wrapping. Most geese marketed in the United States are frozen and can be purchased throughout the year. A frozen bird's packaging should be tight and unbroken. The goose should be thawed in the refrigerator and can take up to 2 days to defrost, depending on the size of the bird. Do not refreeze goose once it's been thawed. Fresh geese can be found in some specialty markets and are available from early summer through December. When available, buy goslings (the smaller the better) because they are the most tender. One way to determine age is to check the goose's bill; if it's pliable, the bird is still young. Choose a goose that is plump, with a good fatty layer and skin that is clean and unblemished. Store loosely covered in the coldest section of the refrigerator 2 to 3 days. Remove and store separately any giblets in the body cavity. Because geese have so much fat, they are best roasted. Larger, older birds are tougher and therefore should be cooked using a moist-heat method, such as braising. The fat derived from roasting a goose is prized by many cooks as a cooking fat. Goose benefits from being served with a tart fruit sauce, which helps offset any fatty taste. Geese are high in calories but are a good source of protein and iron. See also game birds.
gooseberry
These large, tart berries grow on bushes and come in many varieties including green, white, yellow and red; their skins can be smooth or fuzzy. Though they're rather rare in the United States, they flourish in northern Europe. Gooseberries are in season during the summer months. If you can find them fresh, choose those that are fairly firm and evenly colored. Canned gooseberries (usually the green variety) are available year-round. Gooseberries make excellent jams, jellies, pies and the dessert for which they're duly famous, fool.
gordita
Spanish for "little fat one," a gordita is a thick (about 1/4 inch) tortilla made of masa, fat and water or stock and sometimes mashed potatoes. These flat cakes are first partially baked on both sides on a dry comal (griddle) just until the masa is set. When cool enough to handle, the edges of the gordita are pinched slightly so that about a 1/4-inch ridge is formed all around the perimeter. The cake is then fried in about 1/2 inch of oil. The fried gordita is then filled with ground beef or chorizo and topped variously with shredded lettuce, onion, etc.
Gorgonzola cheese
Named for a town outside Milan where it was originally made, Gorgonzola is one of Italy's great cheeses. It has an ivory-colored interior that can be lightly or thickly streaked with bluish-green veins. This cow's-milk cheese is rich and creamy with a savory, slightly pungent flavor. When aged over 6 months, the flavor and aroma can be quite strong sometimes downright stinky. The cheese usually comes in foil-wrapped wedges cut from medium-size wheels. Gorgonzola is a perfect accompaniment for pears, apples and peaches, and pairs nicely with hearty red wines. It's delicious when melted over potatoes or crumbled in salads. See also cheese.
gorp
Eaten as a snack, this dry mixture consists of a combination of foods, usually nuts, seeds, raisins or other dried fruit and oats. It's particularly favored by hikers and campers as an energy booster.
Gouda cheese
Holland's most famous exported cheese is Gouda, with its characteristic yellow interior dotted with a few tiny holes. It has a mild, nutlike flavor that is very similar to edam, but its texture is slightly creamier due to its higher milk fat content (about 48 percent compared to Edam's 40 percent). Gouda can be made from whole or part-skim cow's milk, and aged anywhere from a few weeks to over a year. The younger the Gouda, the milder the flavor. When aged over a year, it takes on almost a cheddarlike flavor. It comes in large wheels ranging from 10 to 25 pounds, and usually has a yellow wax rind. Baby Gouda, which comes in rounds weighing no more than a pound, usually has a red wax coating. Some Goudas are flavored with cumin or herbs. Though Gouda is also made in the United States, the domestic version is rarely aged and is extremely mild-flavored. Gouda is particularly good with beer, red wines and dark bread. The Dutch make a dish called kaasdoop, a Gouda fondue served with potatoes and rye bread. See also cheese.
Gougère
Gruyère-flavored Choux Pastry that is piped into a ring shape before being baked. A gougère can be served hot or cold as an appetizer or snack.
Gougere
A cheese-flavored choux pastry.
Goulash
also, gulyas, a rich Hungarian stew made of meat, highly seasoned with paprika.
Gourd
a squash-like vegetable, usually dried and used as a fall decoration.
Gourmand
A person who appreciates eating and drinking, sometimes to excess.
Gourmandise cheese
Flavored with cherry juice, this soft, creamy processed cheese has a mild, sweet flavor. It's usually sold in small cakes or wedges, sometimes with a chopped-nut coating. Gourmandise is delicious with fruit and as a snack with crackers. See also cheese.
gourmet
1. One of discriminating palate; a connoisseur of fine food and drink. 2. Gourmet food is that which is of the highest quality, perfectly prepared and artfully presented. 3. A gourmet restaurant is one that serves well-prepared, high-quality food.
graham cracker
This popular snack was touted as a health food in the 1830s by its creator, Rev. Sylvester Graham, a United States dietary reformer. It's a rectangular-shaped, whole-wheat cracker that has been sweetened, usually with honey. Graham-cracker crust is made from a mixture of finely crushed graham crackers, sugar and butter that is pressed into a pie pan. It's usually baked, but can simply be chilled before being filled.
Graham Flour
a wheat flour similar to wholemeal flour, ground from the whole grain.
Gram (g)
the basic measure of weight in the metric system; 28.35 grams = 1 ounce, and 1000 grams ( a kilogram) = 2.2 U.S. pounds.
grana
The Italian word for "grain," referring to any of various very hard cheeses with a granular texture. Such cheeses, like Parmigiano-Reggiano, are particularly suited for grating. This special texture is the result of long aging, which is usually anywhere from 2 to 7 years, though some (rare) cheeses are ripened up to 20 years. See also cheese; parmesan cheese.
Grand Marnier
A clear, dark golden, brandy-based French liqueur flavored with orange peel.
Granita
A flavored, often sweetened, frozen mixture of water, sugar and liquid flavoring.
Granny Smith apple
Most of these crisp, juicy apples are imported from New Zealand and Australia, though the United States now produces some, principally in California and Arizona. The Granny Smith's freckled green skin covers a sweetly tart flesh that's excellent for both out-of-hand eating and cooking. The imported crop arrives during summer, while those from the United States are available through the winter months, making the popular Granny Smith a year-round, all-purpose apple. See also apple.
granola
A breakfast food consisting of various combinations of grains (mainly oats), nuts and dried fruits. Some manufacturers toast their granola with oil and honey, giving it a crisp texture, sweet glaze and more calories. See also muesli.
grape
This edible berry grows in clusters on small shrubs or climbing vines in temperate zones throughout the world including Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe and North and South America. California is the largest U.S. producer of grapes both for wine and for the table. There are thousands of grape varieties, each with its own particular use and charm. In general, grapes are smooth-skinned and juicy; they may have several seeds in the center or they may be seedless. There are "slip-skin" varieties, which have skins that slip easily off the berry like a mitten being pulled off a hand and those with skins that cling stubbornly to the flesh. Grapes are divided into color categories of white or black (also referred to as "red"). White grape varieties range in color from pale yellow-green to light green, and black grapes from light red to purple-black. They're also classified by the way they're used whether for wine (such as cabernet or riesling), table (like thompson seedless or ribier) or commercial food production, such as muscat grapes for raisins, zante grapes for currants and concord grapes for grape juice, jams and jellies. Wine grapes, for instance, have high acidity and are therefore too tart for general eating. Table grapes, with their low acid, would make dull, bland-tasting wines. The availability of table grapes depends on the variety. Buy grapes that are plump, full-colored and firmly attached to their stems. White (or green) grapes should have a slight pale yellow hue, a sign of ripeness. Dark grapes should be deeply colored, with no sign of green. In general, grapes should be stored, unwashed and in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator. They will keep for up to a week, though quality will diminish with time. Because most supermarket grapes have been sprayed with insecticide, they should be thoroughly washed and blotted dry with a paper towel just before eating or using. Ideally, grapes should be served at about 60°F, so it's best to remove them from the refrigerator about 30 minutes before serving. Table grapes can be used in salads, for pies and other desserts and of course for out-of-hand eating. Whole grapes are also available canned. Grape juice comes in cans or bottles; grape jelly, jam and preserves in jars. Fresh grapes contain small amounts of vitamin A and a variety of minerals. See also catawba; chardonnay; chenin blanc; delaware; emperor; french colombard; merlot; muscadine; niagara; petite sirah; pinot blanc; pinot noir; sauvignon; sémillon; sultana; sylvaner; tokay; zinfandel.
grape leaves
The large green leaves of the grapevine are often used by Greek and Middle Eastern cooks to wrap foods for cooking, as with dolmas. Grape leaves are not usually commercially available fresh so, unless you have a grapevine in your backyard, you'll probably have to buy canned grape leaves packed in brine. They should be rinsed before using to remove some of the salty flavor. Fresh grape leaves must be simmered in water for about 10 minutes to soften them enough to be pliable. In addition to wrapping foods, grape leaves can be used as decorations or garnishes, or in salads. Also called vine leaves.
grapefruit
This tropical citrus fruit grows in great abundance in Arizona, California, Florida and Texas. Its name comes from the fact that the grapefruit grows in grapelike clusters. There are two main categories of grapefruit seeded and seedless. They're also broken into color classifications white, which has a yellowish-white flesh, and pink, the flesh of which can range from pale yellow-pink to brilliant ruby red. Pink grapefruit has a higher amount of vitamin A than does the white. The skins of all varieties of grapefruit are yellow, some with a pink blush. Fresh grapefruit is available year-round those from Arizona and California are in the market from about January through August; Florida and Texas grapefruits usually arrive around October and last through June. Choose grapefruit that have thin, fine-textured, brightly colored skin. They should be firm yet springy when held in the palm and pressed. The heavier they are for their size, the juicier they'll be. Do not store grapefruit at room temperature for more than a day or two. They keep best (up to 2 weeks) when wrapped in a plastic bag and placed in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator. Grapefruit is usually eaten fresh, either halved or segmented and used in salads. It can also be sprinkled with brown sugar and broiled. Canned and frozen forms of grapefruit are available in segments or juice. Grapefruit is a good source of vitamin C.
grapefruit knife
A small knife with a curved, flexible blade that is serrated on both sides. It is used to free grapefruit flesh from both rind and membrane.
Grapes
smooth-skinned, juicy berries (with or without seeds) that grow in clusters; members of the genus Vitis, they are used for wine-making, raisins and eating out of hand.
grapeseed oil
Extracted from grape seeds, most of this oil comes from France, Italy or Switzerland, with a few sources now in the United States. Some grapeseed oils have a light "grapey" flavor and fragrance but most imported into the United States are on the bland side. Grapeseed oil can be used for salad dressings and, because it has a relatively high smoke point, it's also good for sautéing. It may be stored at room temperature (70°F or under) or in the refrigerator. Grapeseed oil is available in gourmet food stores and some supermarkets. See also fats and oils.
Grappa
a brandy distilled from the stalks and grape skins that remain after the wine has been pressed. See eau-de-vie.
grasshopper pie
Like the drink of the same name, this light, airy and rich pie is flavored with crème de menthe and white crème de cacao. The richness comes from whipped cream and the lightness from beaten egg whites. Grasshopper pie usually has a Graham cracker- or cookie-crumb crust. It must be refrigerated several hours to set, and is served chilled.
Grate
to reduce a larger piece of food to smaller particles by rubbing it against a coarse, serrated surface, either by the use of hand-grater or a food processor.
Grater
a square metal or plastic instrument with perforations stamped in it against which goods can be rubbed to break off particles.
Gratin, Gratinée
Any dish covered with cheese or buttered breadcrumbs and baked or broiled.
gratin; gratinée
A gratin is any dish that is topped with cheese or bread crumbs mixed with bits of butter, then heated in the oven or under the broiler until brown and crispy. The terms au gratin or gratinée refer to any dish prepared in such a manner. Special round or oval gratin pans and dishes are ovenproof and shallow, which increases a dish's surface area, thereby insuring a larger crispy portion for each serving.
Gravenstein apple
This crisp, juicy, sweetly tart apple has a beautiful green skin streaked with red. It's in season from August to late September and available mainly on the West Coast. Although the Gravenstein is considered an all-purpose apple and makes delicious pies and applesauce, it does not do well when baked whole. See also apple.
Graves
Any of several notable wines from the region of Graves, an important wine-producing area in France's bordeaux region. Although the name Graves is generally associated with several fine, dry white wines, the reds are also quite distinctive. They are, however, generally bottled under the name of their Château of origin, though the Graves designation is usually in fine print somewhere on the label.
Gravlax
alt spellings: GravloxCured raw salmon.
Gravy
a sauce made from meat or poultry juices combined with a liquid (ex. milk, broth or wine) and a thickening agent (ex. flour or cornstarch).
gravy boat
An elongated, boat-shaped pitcher used to serve gravy. A gravy boat usually sits on a matching plate, which is used to catch gravy drips. Sometimes the plate is permanently attached to the pitcher. A matching ladle often accompanies a gravy boat. Also called sauce boat.
Grease
to cover the cooking surface of a pan or dish with a fat to keep foods from sticking to it.
grease mop
An inexpensive kitchen tool that looks like a miniature rag mop made with absorbent white strips. When a grease mop is brushed over the surface of a soup or stock, the strips absorb floating grease. Grease mops (also called fat mops ) are available in specialty gourmet shops and the cookware section of some department stores. They may be washed with hot, soapy water or placed in a dishwasher.
Great Northern Bean
a large, flat, kidney-shaped white bean; has a delicate flavor and is generally available dried.
grecque, à la
French for "in the Greek style," usually referring to vegetables (such as mushrooms and artichokes) and herbs cooked in olive oil and lemon juice and served cold as an appetizer.
Greek coffee
A rich, intensely strong brew made by boiling finely ground coffee and water together in a long-handled, open, brass or copper pot called an ibrik. Sugar and spices are sometimes added to the grounds before brewing begins. Greek coffee is often brought to a boil three times before it's considered ready. It's poured directly into tiny demitasse cups, which means that each cup gets its share of fine coffee grounds. Let the coffee sit for a few moments to allow the sediment to settle. See also coffee.
Green Bean
a long, slender green pod that contains several small seeds; the entire crisp pod is edible; also known as a string bean (because of the fibrous string that runs down the side; modern varieties do not have this fiber), fresh bean and snap bean.
green goddess dressing
This dressing was created in the 1920s by the chef at San Francisco's Palace Hotel in honor of actor George Arliss, who was appearing locally in a play called "Green Goddess." The classic green goddess dressing is a blend of mayonnaise, tarragon vinegar, anchovies, parsley, chives, tarragon, scallions and garlic. In addition to dressing salads, it's often used as a sauce for fish.
Green Onion
See Scallion.
greengage plum
A small, round, tangy-sweet plum with a greenish-yellow skin and flesh. It's good for both out-of-hand eating and cooking. See also plum.
greenling
Found along the Pacific coast of the United States, this rather ugly fish has a huge mouth and sharp teeth. There are nine greenling species but only one, the lingcod (see listing ), is generally sold commercially. See also fish.
greens
Edible leaves of certain plants such as the beet, collard, dandelion and turnip. Greens are usually steamed or quickly cooked in some other manner. See also amaranth; broccoli raab; callaloo; chard; chicory; italian dandelion; kohlrabi; mustard greens.
Gremolata
alt spellings: GremoladaMinced parsley, lemon peel and garlic.
gremolata; gremolada
A garnish made of minced parsley, lemon peel and garlic. It's sprinkled over osso buco and other dishes to add a fresh, sprightly flavor.
Grenadin
thin slices of fillet of veal, larded and braised.
Grenadine
a red sugar syrup made from pomegranate juice, and used to flavor drinks and to sweeten food.
Griddle
a flat pan often of cast iron, used for cooking pancakes, omelets or steaks on top of the stove.
griddle cake
Another name for pancake.
Griddle Cakes
in the United States and Canada a another name for pancakes, flapjacks and hotcakes. In England and Scotland, a name for drop scones.
Gridiron
a metal frame used to hold meat or fish as it cooks over a flame.
Grill
1. To cook on a grill. 2. Cooking equipment in which the heat source (gas, charcoal, hardwood or electric) is located beneath the rack on which the food is placed; it is generally not enclosed, although it can be covered.
grillade
1. French for "grilled (or broiled) food," usually meat. 2. A creole dish of pieces of pounded round steak seared in hot fat, then braised in a rich sauce with vegetables and tomatoes. Grillade is customarily served with grits.
grillettes
Morsels of fatty meat (usually beef or duck) that are grilled or fried until very crisp.
Grind
to reduce food to particles by using a food chopper.
grinder
1. Any of various hand-driven or electric devices used to reduce food to small particles of varying degrees. Coffee grinders are electric and usually have an exposed, disk-style blade inside the unit's container. The grind can be adjusted from fine to coarse. Some nuts and spices can also be ground in a coffee grinder. Meat grinders can be either manual (operated by a hand crank) or electric; the housing can be made of cast iron or tough plastic. Hand-operated meat grinders are attached to a countertop by a clamp-and-screw mechanism, whereas electric models are freestanding. They both work on the same principle, by forcing chunks of meat through a rotating blade, then through a perforated cutting disk. See also nut mill. 2. In some regions, "grinder" also refers to a huge sandwich; see hero sandwich.
grissini
Italian for "breadsticks" (the singular form is grissino ), referring to thin, crisp breadsticks that originated in Turin, Italy. They're available commercially in many supermarkets.
Grits
Coarsely ground dried corn, served boiled, or boiled and then fried.
groats
Hulled crushed grain, such as barley, buckwheat or oats. The most widely used are buckwheat groats (also known as kasha, which are usually cooked in a manner similar to rice. Though groats are generally thought to be more coarsely ground than grits, they come in a variety of grinds including coarse, medium and fine. The two names grits and groats are often used synonymously. Groats are widely used in cereals, as a side dish with vegetables or as a thickener and enricher for soup.
grog
A hot drink made with rum, a sweetener such as sugar or honey and boiling water. Grog is served in a ceramic or glass mug and often garnished with a slice of lemon and a few whole cloves. It has long been considered a curative for colds but is generally consumed simply for its pleasure- and warmth-giving properties.
ground beef
Also referred to as hamburger, ground beef is simply beef that has been ground or finely chopped. The price of ground beef is determined by the cut of meat from which it was made and the amount of fat incorporated into the mix. High-fat mixtures are less costly but will shrink more when cooked. The least expensive product is sold as regular ground beef or regular hamburger. It's usually made with trimmings of the less expensive cuts such as brisket and shank, and can contain up to 30 percent fat. The moderately priced ground chuck is the next level of ground beef. Because it contains enough fat (about 15 to 20 percent) to give it flavor and make it juicy, yet not enough to cause excess shrinkage, ground chuck is the best meat for hamburgers. The leanest (around 11 percent fat) and most expensive of the ground meats are ground round and ground sirloin. Though they're great for calorie watchers, they become quite dry when cooked beyond medium-rare. Ground beef is sold fresh and frozen, prepackaged in bulk (usually 1 to 5 pounds) or in preformed patties. It may also be ground to order. The way it is used determines how the beef should be ground. In general, the finer the beef is ground, the more compact it will be when cooked. For instance, firm-textured combinations such as
Ground Cherry
a berry sometimes called husk tomato, it is used to make preserves.
Groundnut
a peanut.
grouper
Although some weigh 1/3 ton, the average size of this fish is from 5 to 15 pounds. Groupers are found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the North and South Atlantic. They're marketed whole as well as in fillets and steaks. They have a lean, firm flesh that is suitable for baking, broiling, frying, poaching or steaming. The grouper's skin, which is very strongly flavored, should always be removed before cooking. The most popular members of this sea bass family are the black grouper, Nassau grouper, red grouper and yellowmouth (also called yellowfin ) grouper. See also fish.
gruel
A cereal (usually oatmeal) cooked with water or milk and generally of a very thin consistency.
grunion
Tiny (3- to 6-ounce) fish found along the Southern California coast, known for their spawning habits. The "running of the grunion" occurs by the light of the full moon as these silvery fish wriggle their way above high tide to spawn in the wet sand. Legally, grunion can only be caught by hand, though many people snare them with nets or scoops. The moderately fat grunion are best broiled, deep-fried or sautéed. See also fish.
grunt
1. Named after the grunting noise it makes, this rich, sweet-flavored fish can be found in the United States mainly in Florida's coastal waters. Anatomically related to the snapper, grunt is generally available only in its region, and is best either broiled or sautéed. See also fish. 2. An old-fashioned dessert of fruit topped with biscuit dough and stewed. Also called slump.
Gruviera cheese; Groviera
This Italian version of the Swiss gruyère has a sweet, nutlike flavor that is very like the original. It can be used in any manner suitable for Gruyère. See also cheese.
Gruyère Cheese
Swiss Gruyère is named for the valley of the same name in the canton of Fribourg. This moderate-fat, cow's-milk cheese has a rich, sweet, nutty flavor that is highly prized both for out-of-hand eating and cooking. It's usually aged for 10 to 12 months and has a golden brown rind and a firm, pale yellow interior with well-spaced, medium-size holes. It's made in 100-pound wheels that are cut into wedges for the market. Gruyère is also produced in France and several other countries.
Guacamole
a Mexican dip, sauce or side dish made from mashed avocado flavored with lemon or lime juice and chiles; sometimes chopped tomatoes, green onion and cilantro are added.
Guajillo
A shiny red, very hot chile.
guajillo chile
The skin of this dried chile is shiny-smooth and a deep, burnished red. The chile is very tough and must be soaked longer than most dried chiles. The flavorful guajillo is pointed, long and narrow (about 4 inches by 1 inch). Because it can be quite hot, the guajillo is also sometimes called the travieso ("mischievous") chile in reference to its not-so-playful sting. It's used in both sauces and cooked dishes.
guar gum
A gummy substance obtained from legume-family plants, used as a thickener and stabilizer in commercial food processing. See also gum arabic; gum tragancanth; xanthan gum.
guava
This sweet, fragrant tropical fruit grows in its native South America as well as in California, Florida and Hawaii. There are many varieties of guavas, which can range in size from a small egg to a medium apple. Typically, the fruit is oval in shape and about 2 inches in diameter. The color of the guava's thin skin can range from yellow to red to purple-black, the flesh from pale yellow to bright red. Guavas are usually only available fresh in the region where they're grown. Choose those that give to gentle palm pressure but that have not yet begun to show spots. To be eaten raw, guavas should be very ripe. Ripen green ones at room temperature. Store ripe guavas in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator for up to 4 days. Guavas make excellent jams, preserves and sauces. Canned whole guavas as well as juice, jams, jellies, preserves and sauce are available in many supermarkets. Fresh guavas are a good source of vitamins A and C.
guinea fowl
Thought to have originated in Guinea, West Africa, this small bird is a relative of the chicken and partridge. The meat of the guinea fowl is dark, somewhat dry and has a pleasantly gamey flavor. Guinea hens are more tender than the male of the species. The hens range in size from 3/4 pound (called guinea squab ) to about 4 pounds. Guinea fowl are available fresh and frozen. If fresh, loosen package wrapping slightly and remove any giblets from the body cavity before storing in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. Frozen guinea fowl should be thawed overnight in the refrigerator and used within 2 days. Never refreeze fowl once it's thawed. Guinea fowl may be prepared in any way suitable for chicken, keeping in mind that because the meat is drier, moist cooking methods will produce a more satisfactory end result. Any fowl over 2 1/2 pounds should probably be barded with fat before cooking to ensure moistness.
Gum Arabic
a preservative made of sugar, water, and powdered acacia. It is used with leaves such as mint and rose.
Gum Tragacanth
a gum from plants found in Iran, Turkey and Greece, it is used as a thickener and a base for ice cream powder and gelatinous desserts.
Gumbo
soup or stew made with okra as a main ingredient. The term also describes the okra plant.
gunpowder tea
This fine Chinese tea is considered the highest grade of green tea and is noted for both its form and its flavor. The small, young tea leaves are rolled into minuscule balls, giving the tea a granular appearance. Gunpowder tea is light in color, with a distinctively sharp flavor. See also tea.
gurnard
The common English name for fish belonging to the family Triglidae. These marine fish, which sometimes swim near the surface and make a grunting or croaking noise, are also called crooner, croonack, gowdie, and in North America sea robin. They also have fins that allow them to crawl around on the ocean bottom. Most of the species used for food are found in warmer waters in the Atlantic and Mediterranean, although there are a few gunard species in the Pacific. The gunard's flesh is white, firm and lowfat, which makes it appropriate for frying, baking or poaching. See also fish.
gyoza
Japanese equivalent of a pot sticker.
gyro
A Greek specialty consisting of minced lamb that is molded around a spit and vertically roasted. The meat is usually sliced, enfolded in a pita and topped with grilled onions, sweet peppers and a cucumber-yogurt sauce.
Haddock
of the cod family, this fish is white-fleshed and is good to use in any recipe calling for cod. Smoked, it is known as Finnan Haddid. Poached, and served with drawn butter, it has a faint hint of the flavor of lobster.
Haggamuggie / Haggis
the minced innards of an animal cooked with oatmeal and suet. Traditionally, a meat pudding or sausage was make then boiled in the cleaned stomach bag of the sheep.
haggis
This Scottish specialty is made by stuffing a sheep's (or other animal's) stomach lining with a minced mixture of the animal's organs (heart, liver, lungs, and so on), onion, suet, oatmeal and seasonings, then simmering the sausage in water for about 4 hours. Haggamuggie is a simplified version of haggis made with fish liver.
Hake
of the cod family, this fish is easy to fillet and has soft white flesh.
Half-and-Half; Half & Half
is a mixture of equal parts milk and cream, and is 10 to 12 percent milk fat. It cannot be whipped.
halibut
Abundant in northern Pacific and Atlantic waters, this large member of the flatfish family can weigh up to half a ton. The norm, however, ranges between 50 and 100 pounds. Considered the finest are the young chicken halibut, which can weigh anywhere from 2 to 10 pounds. Halibut meat is lowfat, white, firm and mild flavored. Fresh halibut is available year-round but most abundant from March to September. Both fresh and frozen halibut is usually marketed in fillets and steaks. It's suitable for almost any manner of preparation. Halibut cheeks are sometimes available in specialty fish markets. See also fish.
hallacas
Hailing from Colombia and Venezuela, hallacas are South America's version of tamales. They consist of ground beef or chicken mixed with other foods such as olives or raisins, surrounded by a ground-corn dough, wrapped in banana leaves and gently boiled. Hallacas are served as both an appetizer and main dish.
Halva
a sweet dish or candy made from ground sesame seeds, fruit or vegetables. Near Eastern in origin.
halvah; halva
Hailing from the Middle East, this confection is made from ground sesame seed and honey, sometimes with the addition of chopped dried fruit and pistachio nuts. It's available in most supermarkets in wrapped bars, and in Jewish delicatessens in long slabs from which individual slices can be cut.
Hamache
Yellowtail.
hamantaschen
These small triangular pastries hold a sweet filling, either of honey-poppy seed, prune or apricot. They're one of the traditional sweets of Purim, a festive Jewish holiday. Also called Haman's hats after Haman, the wicked prime minister of Persia who plotted the extermination of Persian Jews. Haman's plot was foiled at the last minute and the joyous festival of Purim was proclaimed in celebration.
hamburger
1. Said to have made its first appearance at the St. Louis Louisiana Purchase Exposition in 1904, the hamburger is one of America's favorite foods. It consists of a cooked patty of ground beef sandwiched between two bread halves, usually in the form of a hamburger bun. The meat can be mixed with various flavorings including finely chopped onions and herbs, and is sometimes topped with a slice of cheese, in which case it becomes a cheeseburger. It's also commonly referred to as a burger and hamburger steak. The name "hamburger" comes from the seaport town of Hamburg, Germany, where it is thought that 19th-century sailors brought back the idea of raw shredded beef (known today as beef tartare) after trading with the Baltic provinces of Russia. Some anonymous German chef decided to cook the beef... and the rest is history. 2. Ground, shred-ded or finely chopped beef. See also ground beef.
hamburger bun
A soft, round yeast roll 3 1/2 to 4 inches in diameter, made to fit the size of a hamburger. It may be made with regular or whole-wheat flour and variously topped with flavorings such as sesame seed, poppy seed or toasted chopped onion.
hamburger press
A plastic or cast-aluminum utensil that forms perfectly round, flat hamburger patties. It comes in two separate round pieces, the top part having a plunger. The hamburger meat is placed in the bottom half, which is shaped like a disc with 1/2- to 1-inch sides. The top of the utensil is set over the base and, by pushing the plunger, the hamburger meat inside is pressed into a perfect disk.
hand-formed cookie; hand-shaped cookie
Also called molded cookie, this style is made by shaping dough by hand into small balls, logs, crescents and other shapes. See also cookie.
handkäse cheese
The name of this German specialty means "hand cheese," referring to the fact that it's hand-shaped into irregular rounds, cylinders or other forms. It's made from skimmed, sour cow's milk, which gives the cheese a sharp, pungent flavor and very strong (some say overpowering) smell. The rind is gray and the interior off-white and soft. Handkäse is usually eaten as a snack. See also cheese.
Hang
to tenderize game or meat by hanging in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place.
Hard Sauce
a sweet liquor-flavored sauce traditionally served on hot puddings and cold cake. Often offered at Christmas with plum pudding.
hard-ball stage
A test for sugar syrup desribing the point at which a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water forms a rigid ball. Though the ball is hard, it will still be somewhat pliable. On a candy thermometer, the hard-ball stage is between 250° and 265°F.
hard-crack stage
A test for sugar syrup describing the point at which a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water separates into hard, brittle threads. On a candy thermometer, the hard-crack stage is between 300° and 310°F.
Hardtack
a sailors name for sea biscuits.
Hare
a wild rabbit with a strong gamey flavor. This is not a wild version of the rabbits raised domestically for food in Europe and some parts of the United States, but another type. It may not be used in place of rabbit in a recipe.
Haricot vert
A green string bean with French attitude.
harissa sauce
From Tunisia, this fiery-hot sauce is usually made with hot chiles, garlic, cumin, coriander, caraway and olive oil. It's the traditional accompaniment for couscous but is also used to flavor soups, stews and other dishes. Harissa can be found in cans and jars in Middle Eastern markets.
harusame
Translating as "spring rain," harusame are Japanese noodles made from soybean, rice or potato flour. They're available in Asian markets and many supermarkets. Harusame are also called cellophane noodles and Japanese vermicelli.
Harvard beets
Sliced beets cooked in a thickened sweet-and-sour sauce composed of vinegar, sugar, water, butter, cornstarch and seasonings. Harvard beets are served hot as a side dish.
Harvey Wallbanger
A sweet cocktail made of vodka, orange juice and galliano (an anise-flavored liqueur).
Hash
a recipe using leftovers, this dish is made by dicing pre-cooked meats and/or vegetables, and cooking with seasonings, minced onions, herbs, or sauce in a frying pan until crisp.
hash browns; hash-brown potatoes
Finely chopped, cooked potatoes that are fried until well browned. The mixture is usually pressed down into a flat cake in the pan and browned on one side, then turned and browned on the other. It's sometimes only browned on one side. Other ingredients such as chopped onion and green pepper are often added for flavor excitement.
hashi
Japanese chopsticks, either wood or bamboo, sometimes lacquered and decorated. Also called o-hashi. Long chopsticks used for cooking are called sai-hashi.
Haslet
Country dish of sweetbreads, heart and liver. It is cooked in a casserole, fried, stewed or ground with onions and prepared as a sausage.
hasty pudding
This easy, versatile dish was enjoyed by our Colonial ancestors both in the morning for breakfast and after dinner for dessert. It's a simple cornmeal mush made with water or milk and sometimes sweetened with molasses, maple syrup or honey. If the dish isn't sweetened during cooking, a syrup or sweet sauce usually accompanies a hasty pudding. It's served hot, sometimes with milk or cream.
haute cuisine
Food that is prepared in an elegant or elaborate manner; the very finest food, prepared perfectly. The French word haute translates as "high" or "superior," cuisine as "cooking" (in general).
Havarti cheese
Named after the Danish experimental farm where it was developed, Havarti is often referred to as the Danish tilsit because of its similarity to that cheese. It's semisoft and pale yellow with small irregular holes. The flavor of young Havarti is mild yet tangy. As the cheese ages, its flavor intensifies and sharpens. Havarti comes in loaves or blocks and is often wrapped in foil. See also cheese.
hazelnut
These wild nuts grow in clusters on the hazel tree in temperate zones around the world. The fuzzy outer husk opens as the nut ripens, revealing a hard, smooth shell. Italy, Spain, France and Turkey lead the way in hazelnut production. Until the 1940s, the United States imported most hazelnuts; however, they're now grown in Oregon and Washington. Also called filberts and cobnuts, particularly when cultivated, these sweet, rich, grape-size nuts are used chopped, ground and whole in all manner of sweets. They also add flavor and texture to savory items such as salads and main dishes. Hazelnuts are usually packaged whole, though some producers are now also offering them chopped a real timesaver. Hazelnuts have a bitter brown skin that is best removed, usually by heating them at 350°F for 10 to 15 minutes, until the skins begin to flake. By placing a handful of nuts at a time in a dish towel, then folding the towel over the warm nuts and rubbing vigorously, most of the skin will be removed. See also hazelnut oil; nuts.
hazelnut oil
A fragrant, full-flavored oil pressed from hazelnuts and tasting like the roasted nut. Most hazelnut oil is imported from France and is therefore expensive. It can be purchased in cans or bottles in gourmet markets and many supermarkets. Hazelnut oil can be stored in a cool (under 65°F) place for up to 3 months. To prevent rancidity, it's safer to store it in the refrigerator. Because it's so strong-flavored, hazelnut oil is generally combined with lighter oils. It can be used in dressings, to flavor sauces and main dishes and in baked goods. See also fats and oils.
head cheese; headcheese
Not a cheese at all, but a sausage made from the meaty bits of the head of a calf (sometimes a sheep or cow) that are seasoned, combined with a gelatinous meat broth and cooked in a mold. When cool, the sausage is unmolded and thinly sliced. It's usually eaten at room temperature. Head cheese can be purchased in delicatessens and many supermarkets. In England this sausage is referred to as brawn, and in France it's called fromage de tête "cheese of head." See also sausage.
head lettuce
Generally, the term head lettuce describes those varieties on which the leaves grow in a dense rosette. There are two subcategories crisphead (commonly known as iceberg ) and butterhead (the Bibb and Boston varieties). See also lettuce.
Headcheese
a molded jelly or sausage made from pigs or calfs head stewed with herbs and seasonings; it includes meat.
Heart
the heart of sheep, calf , ox and pig is used as a variety meat in many popular dishes.
Hearthcakes
the English name for a French round cake. Each region in France creates its own version. The first hearthcakes were baked on the hearth in hot ashes.
hearts of palm
The edible inner portion of the stem of the cabbage palm tree, which grows in many tropical climates and is Florida's official state tree. Hearts of palm are slender, ivory-colored, delicately flavored and expensive. They resemble white asparagus, sans tips. Their texture is firm and smooth and the flavor is reminiscent of an artichoke. Each stalk is about 4 inches long and can range in diameter from pencil-thin to 1 to 1 1/2 inches. The hearts of palm we get in the United States are either from Florida or imported from Brazil. They're available fresh only in Florida and in other countries where they're grown. Canned hearts of palm are packed in water, and can be found in gourmet markets and many large supermarkets. Once opened, they should be transferred to a nonmetal container with an airtight cover. They can be refrigerated in their own liquid for up to a week. Hearts of palm can be used in salads and in main dishes, or deep-fried.
heirloom seeds
The advent of megaagriculture in America has seen the gradual depletion of ancient varieties of native nonhybrid plants. Unfortunately for those who appreciate full-flavored fruits and vegetables, produce-seed conglomerates focus only on those strains that have mass-market appeal which means they're beautiful and hardy, but not necessarily the best-tasting. Fortunately, about 25 years ago some dedicated individuals began saving what they could of the remaining open-pollinated (without human intervention) seed varieties, which have become known as "heirloom seeds." Among the many heirloom fruits and vegetables grown today are beets, carrots, corn, dried beans, lettuce, potatoes and tomatoes. As the public becomes more aware of these wonderful alternatives, farmers are also becoming more interested. Heirloom produce can be found in some specialty produce markets and farmer's markets.
Hen
a female bird. Commercially raised hen-chickens are tender. Hen is also a term applied to the female of various aquatic creatures, lobster for one.
hen-of-the-woods
A dark brownish gray cultivated mushroom that resembles a tightly ruffled puff edged in white. The name of this rich-flavored mushroom is said to come from the fact that its shape vaguely resembles the body of a hen. See also mushroom.
herbes de Provence
An assortment of dried herbs said to reflect those most commonly used in southern France. The blend can be found packed in tiny clay crocks in the spice section of large supermarkets. The mixture commonly contains basil, fennel seed, lavender, marjoram, rosemary, sage, summer savory and thyme. The blend can be used to season dishes of meat, poultry and vegetables. See also herbs.
Herbs
any of a large group of annual and perennial plants whose leaves, stems or flowers are used as a flavoring; usually available fresh and dried.
Herbsaint
Developed and made primarily in New Orleans, Herbsaint is an anise-flavored liqueur.
Herkimer cheese
A famous cheddar made in Herkimer County, New York. See also cheese.
hermit
An old-fashioned favorite said to have originated in Colonial New England, this spicy, chewy cookie is full of chopped fruits and nuts. It's usually sweetened with molasses or brown sugar. It's said that hermits were named for their long keeping qualities they're better when hidden away like a hermit for several days.
hero sandwich
This huge sandwich goes by many names, depending on where it's made. Among its aliases are submarine, grinder, hoagie and poor boy (or po' boy ). Generally, the hero sandwich consists of a small loaf of Italian or French bread (or a large oblong roll), the bottom half of which is heaped with layers of any of various thinly sliced meats, cheeses, tomatoes, pickles, lettuce, peppers anything for which the cook is in the mood.
herring
This huge family of saltwater fish has over a hundred varieties. The popular herring swims in gigantic schools and can be found in the cold waters of the North Atlantic and Pacific oceans. In the United States, two of the most popular members of this family are the American shad and the alewife, both of which are anadromous, meaning that they migrate from their saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. Herring are generally small (ranging between 1/4 and 1 pound) and silvery. The major exception to that rule is the American shad, which averages 3 to 5 pounds and is prized for its eggs the delicacy known as shad roe. Young herring are frequently labeled and sold as sardines. Fresh herring are available during the spring on both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts. When fresh, the high-fat herring has a fine, soft texture that is suited for baking, sautéing and grilling. The herring's flesh becomes firm when cured by either pickling, salting, smoking or a combination of those techniques. There are many variations of cured herring. Bismarck herring are unskinned fillets that have been cured in a mixture of vinegar, sugar, salt and onions. Rollmops are Bismarck herring fillets wrapped around a piece of pickle or onion and preserved in spiced vinegar. Pickled herring (also called marinated herring) have been marinated in vinegar and spices before being bottled in either a sour-cream sauce or a wine sauce. The term can also refer to herring that have been dry-salted before being cured in brine. Kippered herring (also called kippers) are split, then cured by salting, drying and cold-smoking. Bloaters are larger than kippers but treated in a similar manner. They have a slightly milder flavor due to a lighter salting and shorter smoking period. Their name comes from their swollen appearance. Schmaltz herring are mature, higher-fat herring that are filleted and preserved in brine. The reddish Matjes herring are skinned and filleted before being cured in a spiced sugar-vinegar brine. See also fish.
Hervé cheese
From the Belgian town of the same name, this cow's-milk, limburger-like cheese is pungent, soft and very strong-smelling. It is sometimes flavored with herbs. Hervé has a pale yellow interior with a reddish-brown coating created by the bacteria that grow during its 3-month aging. Because it's so strong, Hervé is best eaten with dark breads and beers. See also cheese.
Het Pint
a Scottish drink used for special occasions. It is a heated mixture of ale, eggs, whiskey and nutmeg.
hibachi
Japanese for "fire bowl," a hibachi is just that a small (generally cast-iron) container made for holding fuel (usually charcoal). A grill that sits on top of the bowl is used to cook various foods. Hibachis come in square, oblong and round models. Because of their compact size, they're completely portable.
hickory nut
There are 17 varieties of hickory trees, 13 of which are native to the United States. The extremely hard hickory wood is widely used to smoke meats. All varieties of the hickory tree bear nuts, the most popular being the pecan, partially due to its thin shell. The common "hickory nut" has an extraordinarily hard shell, the cracking of which usually requires a hammer swung with a great deal of muscle. Hickory nuts have an excellent, rich flavor with a buttery quality due to their high fat content. They're available only in certain parts of the country and are generally sold unshelled. Hickory nuts can be used in a variety of baked goods and in almost any recipe as a substitute for pecans. See also nuts.
High Altitude Cooking & Baking
Simply put, the weight of air on any surface it comes in contact with is called air (or atmospheric) pressure. There's less (or lower) air pressure at high altitudes because the blanket of air above is thinner than it would be at sea level. As a result, at sea level water boils at 212°F; at an altitude of 7,500 feet, however, it boils at about 198°F because there's not as much air pressure to inhibit the boiling action. This also means that because at high altitudes boiling water is 14 degrees cooler than at sea level, foods will take longer to cook because they're heating at a lower temperature. Lower air pressure also causes boiling water to evaporate more quickly in a high altitude. This decreased air pressure means that adjustments in some ingredients and cooking time and temperature will have to be made for high-altitude baking, as well as some cooking techniques such as candy making, deep-fat frying and canning. In general, no recipe adjustment is necessary for yeast-risen baked goods, although allowing the dough or batter to rise twice before the final pan rising develops a better flavor.
high-altitude cooking and baking
Simply put, the weight of air on any surface it comes in contact with is called air (or atmospheric ) pressure. There's less (or lower) air pressure at high altitudes because the blanket of air above is thinner than it would be at sea level. As a result, at sea level water boils at 212°F; at an altitude of 7,500 feet, however, it boils at about 198°F because there's not as much air pressure to inhibit the boiling action. This also means that because at high altitudes boiling water is 14° cooler than at sea level, foods will take longer to cook because they're heating at a lower temperature. Lower air pressure also causes boiling water to evaporate more quickly in a high altitude. This decreased air pressure means that adjustments in some ingredients and cooking time and temperature will have to be made for high-altitude baking, as well as some cooking techniques such as candy making, deep-fat frying and canning. In general, no recipe adjustment is necessary for yeast-risen baked goods, although allowing the dough or batter to rise twice before the final pan rising develops a better flavor. For baked goods leavened by baking powder and baking soda.
highball
A cocktail served in a tall glass over ice. Usually a simple concoction of whiskey mixed with soda water or plain water.
hijiki
A type of dried, black seaweed that's reconstituted in water and used as a vegetable in soups and other dishes. Hijiki's flavor has a slight anise character.
Hip
bright reddish orange fruit of roses, particularly species roses, as Rosa rugosa. It contains vitamin C and is used to make a tea, and for jams and syrups.
hiyamugi
Thin wheat-flour noodles generally served cold either as part of various Japanese dishes or by themselves with a soy-based dipping sauce. Hiyamugi comes in various colors and can be found dried in Asian markets.
Hochepot / Hotchpotch
a Belgian dish of considerable antiquity, a very thick soup traditionally made with brisket of beef, shoulder and breast of mutton, shoulder of veal, pigs feet, ears and tails, chippolata sausages, onions, assorted vegetables, herbs and condiments. The meat garnished with vegetables is served separately from the broth. Probably associated with the phrase, hodgepodge, which refers to a jumble of things all mixed together. England has a hot pot which probably is a version of the Belgian dish.
Hock
British term for any white Rhine wine. Also, a cut of meat from the leg of an animal, valued for soups, stews and jellies.
Hoisin
a thick, reddish-brown, sweet-and-spicy sauce made from soybeans, garlic, chiles and various spices and used as a condiment and flavoring in Chinese cuisines; also known as Peking sauce.
Hoisin sauce
A mahogany-colored, sweet and tangy blend of soy, garlic, chile and spices; used in Chinese
holishkes
Originating in eastern Europe, this Jewish dish consists of cabbage leaves stuffed with a mixture of ground beef, onion, eggs and seasonings. The cabbage rolls are baked and served with a sweet-and-sour sauce. Holishkes are traditional at Sukkot, the fall harvest festival, where they're considered a symbol of plenty. They're also called praches.
Hollandaise
a sauce made of butter, egg, and lemon juice or vinegar.
hollandaise sauce
This smooth, rich, creamy sauce is generally used to embellish vegetables, fish and egg dishes, such as the classic eggs benedict. It's made with butter, egg yolks and lemon juice, usually in a double boiler to prevent overheating, and served warm.
home-fried potatoes; home fries
Potatoes that are sliced and fried, often with finely chopped onions or green peppers. The potatoes can either be raw or boiled before slicing. Also called cottage-fried potatoes.
Hominy
hulled corn with the germ removed. Hominy grits are uniform granules that are boiled and served as a breakfast cereal or as an accompaniment to a main dish or fish, meat or poultry.
homogenize
To create an emulsion by reducing all the particles to the same size. In homogenized milk, for instance, the fat globules are broken down mechanically until they are evenly and imperceptibly distributed throughout the liquid. Commercial salad dressings are also often homogenized.
Homogenized
treatment for milk that breaks the fat into tiny particles that can remain suspended in liquid rather than rising to the top as cream in untreated milk.
Honey
a sweet, usually viscous, liquid made by bees from flower nectar and stored in the cells of the hive for food; generally contains 17 to 20% water and 76 to 80% sucrose; consumed fresh or after processing, it is usually used as a nutritive sweetener.
honeydew melon
This sweet, succulent member of the muskmelon family was prized by ancient Egyptians thousands of years ago, and ages before that in Persia, where the muskmelon is thought to have originated. Luckily for American honeydew enthusiasts, the melons are now grown in California and parts of the Southwest. The slightly oval honeydew is distinguished by a smooth, creamy-yellow rind and pastel green flesh that's extraordinarily juicy and sweet. It ranges in weight from 4 to 8 pounds. Honeydews are available year-round, though the peak months are generally July through September. Perfectly ripe honeydews will have an almost indistinguishable wrinkling on the skin's surface, often detectable only by touch. Choose one that's very heavy for its size. Underripe melons can be ripened at room temperature. Wrap ripe melons in a plastic bag and refrigerate up to 5 days. Honeydew melons can be used in salads, desserts, as a garnish and in fruit soups. They are a good source of vitamin C. See also melon.
hooch; hootch
Liquor that's either illegally produced (bootleg ) or just plain cheap. The word hooch is generally associated with whiskey produced during Prohibition (1920-1933), however, the name originated in the late 1800s with a tribe of Alaskan Indians. It comes from Hoochinoo (Hootchinoo ), a Tlingit Indian village on Admiralty Island, Alaska, the inhabitants of which made and sold alcoholic spirits illegally.
hoppin' John; hopping John
Said to have originated with African slaves on Southern plantations, hoppin' John is a dish of black-eyed peas cooked with cured meat and seasonings and served with cooked rice. Tradition says that if hoppin' John is eaten on New Year's day, it will bring good luck.
Hopping John; Hoppin' John
a southern U.S. dish of black-eyed peas cooked with a ham hock and served over white rice.
hops
A hardy, vining plant that produces conelike flowers. The dried flowers are used to impart a pleasantly bitter flavor to beers and ales. This same plant produces hop shoots, which are widely available commercially only in Europe and can be cooked like asparagus and served as a vegetable.
horchata
Extremely popular in Spain and Mexico, horchatas are drinks made by steeping nuts, grains or chufa in water. They're usually lightly sweetened with sugar and sometimes spiced with cinnamon. Horchatas are generally served cold or at room temperature. They come in a wide variety of flavors. Horchata de arroz is made with rice, horchata de almendras with almonds, and the famous horchata de chufa is, of course, made with chufa. Horchatas may be purchased in Latin markets.
horehound
A member of the mint family, this downy-leaved plant yields a juice that, culinarily, is generally only used to make horehound candy a brittle, sugar-drop confection with a slightly bitter undertaste. Extract of horehound is also used to make cough syrup and lozenges.
Hors doeuvres
a light food, hot or cold, prepared for small servings, to be eaten before the main meal. The American equivalent is an appetizer. Hors doeuvres were originally served on a sideboard apart from the dining table and before the meal.
hors d'oeuvre
Small savory appetizers served before the meal, customarily with apéritifs or cocktails. They are usually one- or two-bite size and can be cold or hot. Hors d'oeuvre may be in the form of a fancy canapé or as simple as a selection of crudités. The word "hors d'oeuvre" is properly used for both the singular and plural forms. The reason is that the term translates literally as (dishes) "outside the work (meal)" and no matter how many dishes there are, there is only one "work." In today's modern parlance, however, the plural is often spoken and written as hors d'oeuvres.
horseradish
This ancient herb (one of the five bitter herbs of the Jewish Passover festival) is a native of eastern Europe but now grows in other parts of Europe as well as the United States. Though it has spiky green leaves that can be used in salads, horseradish is grown mainly for its large, white, pungently spicy roots. Fresh horseradish is available in many supermarkets. Choose roots that are firm with no sign of blemishes or withering. Horseradish should be refrigerated, wrapped in a plastic bag, and peeled before using. It's most often grated and used in sauces or as a condiment with fish or meat. Bottled horseradish is available white (preserved in vinegar), and red (in beet juice). Also available is dried horseradish, which must be reconstituted before using. See also wasabi.
Hot Bag
an extra heavy duty aluminum foil bag, pre-sealed on three sides to make a large and durable pouch.
hot cross buns
Traditionally served on Good Friday, these small, lightly sweet yeast buns contain raisins or currants and sometimes chopped candied fruit. Before baking, a cross is slashed in the top of the bun. After baking, a confectioners' sugar icing is used to fill the cross.
hot dog
The term for one of America's favorite sandwiches (the other being the hamburger), which consists of a frankfurter in an oblong-shaped bun with any of various toppings including mustard, ketchup, pickle relish, cheese, sauerkraut and beans. Regular hot dogs are about 6 inches long, while they are also available in foot-long versions. Among the many aliases for hot dogs are wiener dog, frankfurter, frank and tube steak. See also corn dog; pigs in blankets.
Hot Sauce
a seasoning sauce, usually commercially made, containing chile peppers, salt and vinegar.
Hotcakes
in the United States and Canada a another name for pancakes, flapjacks and griddlecakes. In England and Scotland, a name for drop scones.
hotchpotch
Each country has its own version of this rich, layered, vegetable-and-meat stew. Scots usually add barley and the meat is mutton or beef. The English call it hot pot and their famous Lancashire hot pot contains mutton, sheep's kidneys, all covered with a layer of potatoes. The Dutch hutspot uses beef, whereas in France and Belgium the dish is referred to as hochepot.
hubbard squash
A very large winter squash with a thick, bumpy, hard shell ranging in color from dark green to bright orange. Hubbards are available from early September to March, either whole or, if extraordinarily large, cut into pieces. Look for those with clean-colored rinds free from blemishes. Store unwrapped in a cool (under 50°F) place (or in the refrigerator) up to 6 months. Hubbard squash is best boiled or baked. Because of its rather grainy texture, the yellow-orange flesh is often mashed or pureed and mixed with butter and seasonings before serving. Hubbard squash is an excellent source of vitamin A and contains a fair amount of iron and riboflavin. See also squash.
huckleberry
A wild, blue-black berry that closely resembles (and is often mistaken for) the blueberry. The huckleberry, however, has 10 small, hard seeds in the center, whereas the blueberry has many seeds, so tiny and soft that they're barely noticeable. Additionally, the huckleberry has a thicker skin and a flavor that is slightly less sweet and more astringent. Unless you pick them yourself, or have a friend who does, it's unlikely that you'll find fresh huckleberries because they're not cultivated. They're in season from June through August and are good eaten plain or in baked goods such as muffins or pies.
huevo
Spanish for "egg." Huevos duros are "hard-boiled eggs," huevos pasados por agua are "soft-boiled eggs," huevos escalfados are "poached eggs," huevos fritos are "fried eggs" and huevos revueltos are "scrambled eggs."
huevos rancheros
Spanish for "rancher's eggs," although the more common translation is "country" or "country-style" eggs. Huevos rancheros consists of fried corn tortillas topped with fried eggs and then a layer of salsa.
huile
French for "oil," generally referring to cooking oil. Huile d'olive is "olive oil," huile de noix is "walnut oil."
Huitlacoche
See "Cuitlacoche."
Huitlacoche [wee-tlah-KOH-cheh]
(also spelled cuitlacoche; also referred to as 'Mexican corn truffle') is a fungus which grows naturally on ears of corn (Ustilago maydis). The fungus is harvested and treated as a delicacy. The earthy and somewhat smoky fungus is used to flavor quesadillas, tamales, soups and other specialty dishes.
hull
n. 1. The outer (usually fibrous) covering of a fruit or seed also called husk or shell. 2. The attached, leafy calyx of some fruits, such as the strawberry. hull v. To prepare a food for eating by removing the outer covering or, as in the case of strawberries, the leafy portion at the top. See also schuck.
Humble Pie
umbles are the heart, liver, kidney and other innards of a deer. Servants once made this into a pie for themselves and coined the phrase humble pie. Today the connotation is one who accepts a humble status or humiliating treatment voluntarily.
Hummus
Mashed chickpeas flavored with lemon juice, garlic and oil.
hundred-year egg
Also called century egg, thousand-year egg and Ming Dynasty egg, all of which are eggs that have been preserved by being covered with a coating of lime, ashes and salt before being shallowly buried for 100 days. The lime "petrifies" the egg, making it look like it's been buried for at least a century. The black outer coating and shell are removed to reveal a firm, amber-colored white and creamy, dark green yolk. The flavor is pungent and cheeselike. Eggs from chickens are generally used, though duck and goose eggs are also preserved in this manner. Hundred-year eggs are sold individually and can be found in Chinese markets. They will keep at room temperature (under 70°F) for up to 2 weeks or in the refrigerator up to a month. These preserved eggs are usually eaten uncooked, either for breakfast or served as an appetizer, often with accompaniments such as soy sauce or minced ginger.
Hungarian wax chile
A large (3 to 5 inches long and up to 1 1/2 inches in diameter) yellow chile that ranges in flavor from mild to medium-hot. Hungarian wax chiles, which have a distinctly waxy flavor, are also called banana chiles. See also chile.
Hush Puppies
a dish made of fried cornmeal batter. The term is said to have originated at a southern fish fry where the cooks fried extra bits of fish batter to throw to the noisy dogs to hush the puppies.
hushpuppy; hush puppy
This Southern specialty is a small cornmeal dumpling, flavored with chopped scallions, deep-fried and served hot. Hushpuppies are a traditional accompaniment for fried fish. Their name is said to have come from the fact that, to keep hungry dogs from begging for food while the rest of the dinner was being prepared, cooks used to toss scraps of the fried batter to the pets with the admonition, "Hush, puppy!"
hydrolyzed plant protein; hydrolyzed vegetable protein
A protein obtained from various foods (like soybeans, corn or wheat), then broken down into amino acids by a chemical process called acid hydrolysis. Hydrolyzed plant or vegetable protein is used as a flavor enhancer in numerous processed foods like soups, chilis, sauces, stews and some meat products like frankfurters. See also vegetable protein.
hydroponics
Dating back to the 1930s, hydroponics is the science of growing plants in a liquid nutrient solution rather than in soil. The plants are supported in a sterile, inert medium, such as gravel or peat, and regularly flooded with a nutrient-rich solution, which is drained off and reused until it is no longer beneficial. The air and light in a hydroponic enclosure is strictly controlled to insure optimal production. Increased yields are further insured because hydroponically grown vegetables can be planted much closer together than those in the field. Yet another bonus is that hydroponic farmers are not besieged by weeds and pests, which means their crops are pesticide free. With the science of hydroponics, plants can be grown in areas where the climate is inhospitable or the soil is unsuitable. This means that perfect tomatoes can be grown in the desert or in the middle of winter. See also aquaculture.
Hyssop
Any of various herbs in the mint family. The slightly bitter leaves are sometimes used in salads and soups.
ice
n. Called granité in France and granita in Italy, an ice is a frozen mixture of water, sugar and liquid flavoring such as fruit juice, wine or coffee. The proportion is usually 4 parts liquid to 1 part sugar. During the freezing process, ices are generally stirred frequently to produce a slightly granular final texture. ice v. 1. To chill a food, glass or serving dish in order to get it icy cold and sometimes coated with frost. 2. To spread frosting over the surface of a cake.
Ice Bath
a mixture of ice and water used to chill a food or beverage rapidly.
ice cream
America's favorite dessert is thought to have originated in the mountains of ancient China, with snow probably used as the base. Today's ice cream is made with a combination of milk products (usually cream combined with fresh, condensed or dry milk), a sweetening agent (sugar, honey, corn syrup or artificial sweetener) and sometimes solid additions such as pieces of chocolate, nuts, fruit and so on. According to fda regulations, ice creams with solid additions must contain a minimum of 8 percent milk fat, while plain ice creams must have at least 10 percent milk fat. French ice cream has a cooked egg-custard base. Ice milk is made in much the same way as ice cream, except for the fact that it contains less milk fat and milk solids. The result, other than a lowered calorie count, is a lighter, less creamy texture. Commercial ice creams usually contain stabilizers to improve both texture and body, and to help make them melt resistant. Many also contain artificial coloring. Those made with natural flavorings (for instance, chocolate) will be labeled simply "Chocolate Ice Cream." If the majority of the flavoring is natural with a boost from an artificial-flavor source, the label will read "Chocolate-Flavored Ice Cream"; if over 50 percent of the flavoring is artificial it will read "Artificial Chocolate Ice Cream." All commercial ice creams have "overrun," a term applied to the amount of air they contain. The percentage of overrun ranges from 0 (no air) to 200, a theoretical figure that would be all air. The legal overrun limit for ice cream is 100 percent, which would amount to half air. Ice cream needs some air or it would be rock-hard. But one with 100 percent overrun would have so little body that it would feel mushy in the mouth; it would also melt extremely fast. An ice cream with the more desirable proportion of 20 to 50 percent overrun (10 to 25 percent air) would be denser, creamier and eminently more satisfying. Since the overrun is not listed on the package, the only way to be absolutely sure is to weigh the carton. Ice cream with a 50 percent overrun (25 percent air) will weigh about 18 ounces per pint (subtract about 1 1/2 ounces for the weight of the container). The weight of the ice cream will be proportionately higher with a lower percentage of overrun. During storage, ice cream has a tendency to absorb other food odors and to form ice crystals. For that reason, it's best not to freeze it for more than 2 to 3 days. Sealing the carton airtight in a plastic bag will extend storage life up to a week. Ice cream is used for a plethora of delicious treats including baked alaskas, banana splits and ice-cream bars, sandwiches and cakes (cake layered with ice cream and frozen). See also gelato; ice; sherbet.
ice wine
A rich, flavorful dessert wine, which is made by picking grapes that are frozen on the vine, then pressing them before they thaw. Because much of the water in the grapes is frozen, the resulting juice is concentrated rich in flavor and high in sugar and acid. Ice wines are renowned in Germany, where they're called Eiswein (pronounced ice-vine).
ice-cream makers
Generally speaking, there are two basic styles of ice-cream maker manual and electric. They can be simple or fancy and can cost from $25 to almost $1,000. In addition to ice cream, they can be used to make ice milk, frozen yogurt and frozen drinks. All of them work on the same principle a canister with a central, vertical paddle (called a dasher) is placed inside a container that holds the freezing agent either ice and salt, a chemical coolant or an electric refrigeration unit. The inner canister is filled with an ice-cream mixture that the dasher stirs (gently scraping the sides of the canister) when rotated. This stirring action aerates the mixture and keeps it smooth by preventing ice crystals from forming while it freezes. There are several different kinds of ice-cream freezers. Among the manual-style ice-cream makers are the old-fashioned, wooden buckets with a metal inner container for the ice-cream mixture. They require ice, rock salt (which lowers the temperature of the ice) and plenty of physical stamina to turn the crank that rotates the dasher. They usually take 30 to 40 minutes to make 4 to 6 quarts of ice cream. Some of these wooden bucket-style makers have an electric motor that sits on top of the unit, saving manpower. A newer form of manual ice-cream maker is the prechilled chamber freezer, which ranges in size from 1 pint to 1 1/2 quarts. The container is placed in the freezer for 24 to 48 hours to freeze the coolant sealed between the walls lining this unit. The ice-cream mixture is poured into the center cavity; a crank-and-dasher assembly and lid covers the entire unit. The hand-rotated crank is turned once every 2 to 3 minutes for 15 to 30 minutes, depending on the amount of ice cream being made. Electric ice-cream machines are all equipped with electric motors that rotate either the ice-cream canister or the dasher. There are several different styles and sizes of electric ice-cream machines. The most common is the self-contained countertop unit that uses refrigerator ice cubes and table salt, and in which the motor turns the canister. This type can make up to 2 quarts of ice cream. There is also a small freezer unit (averaging 1 quart) that doesn't require salt or ice but instead is placed in the freezer compartment of the refrigerator with the electric cord exiting between the freezer's seal and the closed door. In this type, the dasher is motor-turned, while the canister is stationary. The Rolls-Royce of electric ice-cream freezers is the large, self-contained countertop machine that has the freezing unit built into it. All that's required for this expensive pleaser is to pour the ice-cream mixture into the canister and flick a button.
ice-cream scoop
A utensil used to remove ice cream from a carton or other container while forming the ice cream into a ball or oval shape. Ice-cream scoops come in several styles and sizes. The simplest is a plain metal scoop- or spade-shaped utensil. Next comes one shaped like a half-globe or oval with a spring-action lever in the handle. When squeezed, the lever moves an arc-shaped blade across the scoop's interior and ejects the ice-cream ball. The nonstick-style scoop has antifreeze sealed inside. This model is especially helpful for extremely hard ice cream. Scoops come in many sizes, from tiny to large (about 1 to almost 3 inches in diameter).
Icing
a sweet covering or filling such as buttercream or ganache; used for cakes and pastries; also known as frosting.
icing sugar
The British name for confectioners' sugar.
Idaho potato
The Idaho is considered by many to be the best variety of America's most popular potato for baking, the russet. Though some russets grown elsewhere are commonly called Idaho potatoes, many Idaho government officials are pushing to make the name exclusive to spuds grown in local soil. See also potato.
Indian Pudding
a spicy cornmeal and molasses staple of early American colonists, the pudding varied with each day and according to the condiments available in the cooks larder.
Indian rice
Another name for wild rice.
indienne, à l'
A French term describing Indian-style dishes flavored with curry and served with rice.
induction cooking
A technology whereby cookware is heated using magnetic energy. It requires a special smooth ceramic cooktop with induction energy coils directly beneath the surface. These coils produce high-frequency alternating current from regular low-voltage direct current. When cookware made of a magnetic-based material is placed on this special stovetop, the molecules in the vessel begin to move so rapidly that the pan (not the stovetop) becomes hot. Removing the pan from the cooking surface produces an immediate slowdown of the gyrating molecules, which means the pan begins to cool. This gives a cook immense control over what's being heated. Although most steel- and cast-iron-based vessels work well, those made of aluminum, copper and some stainless steel can't be used on an induction cooktop because they aren't magnetic. Special pans designed for induction cooking are available but, before making a purchase, first try a simple test on your cookware: if a magnet sticks to its surface, the pan is suitable. In addition to an induction stovetop's obvious advantages of heat control, safety, and energy efficiency, its smooth surface makes it a snap to clean.
Infuse
to steep herbs and other flavorings in boiling liquid. Coffee and tea are examples, and so is milk steeped with vanilla bean.
infusion
An infusion is the flavor that's extracted from an ingredient such as tea leaves, herbs or fruit by steeping them in a liquid (usually hot), such as water, for tea. In today's culinary parlance, sauces that have been variously flavored (as with herbs) are also called infusions.
Insalata
Italian for salad.
Integral Sauce
An integral sauce is a sauce based on the juices released during the cooking of a meat, poultry,
fish, or vegetable item. An integral sauce can’t be prepared separately from the dish because it incorporates cooking juices from the item it is served with, usually directly in the pan in which the item was prepared.
The most important technique required for integral sauces is deglazing. Juices released by sautéed and roasted meats are reduced and caramelized in the bottom of the pan during cooking. Deglazing dissolves these caramelized juices and incorporates them into the desired sauce. For the simplest example, if you sauté a chicken breast and then deglaze the sauté pan with a little stock and season the resulting liquid, you end up with an integral sauce that can be served with the chicken.
invert sugar
Invert sugar is created by combining a sugar syrup with a small amount of acid (such as cream of tartar or lemon juice) and heating. This inverts, or breaks down, the sucrose into its two components, glucose and fructose, thereby reducing the size of the sugar crystals. Because of its fine crystal structure, invert sugar produces a smoother product and is used in making candies such as fondant, and some syrups. The process of making jams and jellies automatically produces invert sugar by combining the natural acid in the fruit with granulated sugar and heating the mixture. Invert sugar can usually be found in jars in cake-decorating supply shops.
Irish breakfast tea
A strong, robust black-tea blend that includes the superior ceylon tea. See also tea.
Irish coffee
Guaranteed to warm the cockles of anyone's heart, this hot beverage blends strong coffee, irish whiskey and a small amount of sugar. It's usually served in a glass mug and topped by a dollop of whipped cream. See also coffee.
Irish mist
A liqueur made from a blend of irish whiskey and heather honey.
Irish potato
A round, white, thin-skinned potato whose origin is actually South America. It's good for boiling, frying and pan-roasting. See also potato.
Irish soda bread
This classic Irish quick bread uses baking soda (as the name implies) as its leavener. It's usually made with buttermilk and is speckled with currants and caraway seed. Before baking, a cross is slashed in the top of the loaf. The purpose of the cross, legend says, is to scare away the devil.
Irish Stew
a traditional mutton dish made by boiling well-salted and prepared chops with an equal quantity of onions and potatoes.
Irish whiskey
Made in Ireland, this light, dry whiskey is distilled from a mash of fermented barley and other grains.
ironware
Pots and pans made from iron or cast iron, both known for excellent heat conductivity. Modern-day ironware is either preseasoned or coated with a thick enamel glaze. The advantage of the enamel coating is the ease with which it cleans. Old-fashioned unseasoned iron pots and pans must be seasoned before using. See also season.
irradiation
An fda-approved process by which food is bombarded with low doses of high-frequency energy from gamma rays, X-rays or accelerated electrons. The purpose for this radiation is to extend shelf life by inhibiting maturation and decay through the elimination of microorganisms and insect invasion. Most foods processed with irradiation will last weeks instead of days. All irradiated foods must bear an international symbol a plant within a broken circle. Exceptions to this rule are irradiated foods such as spices and herbs that are used as an ingredient in other food products. The jury is still out on the safety of irradiated foods. Of concern are potentially toxic elements that irradiation may produce in foods, as well as the possible long-term side effects of eating these treated products. Proponents suggest that irradiation serves as a substitute for many questionable chemicals and preservatives now used in food processing. Those foods currently approved by the fda for irradiation treatment are: fruits, vegetables, dried spices, herbs, seasonings and teas, white potatoes, wheat and wheat flours. Most food producers, however, have not taken advantage of that approval.
isinglass
Transparent and pure, this form of gelatin comes from the air bladders of certain fish. It was popular 100 years ago, particularly for making jellies and to clarify wine. With the convenience of today's modern gelatin, isinglass is rarely used.
Italian bread
Almost identical to french bread, with the exception of its shape, which is shorter and plumper than the French baguette. The top of Italian bread is sometimes sprinkled with sesame seed.
Italian dandelion
Although not a true dandelion, this green looks almost identical to its namesake. The main difference is that the jagged-edged leaves are a deeper green and slightly larger. The Italian dandelion has a tangy, slightly bitter flavor. It can be cooked as well as used in salads. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, up to 5 days. Wash thoroughly just before using.
Italian dressing
A salad dressing consisting of olive oil and wine vinegar or lemon juice, seasoned variously with ingredients including garlic, oregano, basil, dill and fennel.
Italian meringue
A creamy meringue made by slowly beating hot sugar syrup into stiffly beaten egg whites. Because the sugar syrup is cooked to the soft-ball stage, the resulting meringue becomes very dense, glossy and smooth. The same method is used to make boiled icing. Italian meringue is used in soufflés, to frost cakes and pastries and to top pies (in the last case it's usually lightly browned in the oven before serving).
Italian sausage
A coarse sausage, generally sold in plump links. Italian sausage is usually flavored with garlic and fennel seed or anise seed. It comes in two styles hot (flavored with hot, red peppers) and sweet (without the added heat). It must be well cooked before serving, and is suitable for frying, grilling or braising. See also sausage.
Izarra
An herb-flavored liqueur based on armagnac, Izarra is available in yellow and green varieties, the latter being the stronger of the two.
jícama
Often referred to as the Mexican potato, this large, bulbous root vegetable has a thin brown skin and white crunchy flesh. Its sweet, nutty flavor is good both raw and cooked. Jícama is available from November through May and can be purchased in Mexican markets and most large supermarkets. It should be stored in the refrigerator in a plastic bag and will last for about 2 weeks. The thin skin should be peeled just before using. When cooked, jícama retains its crisp, water chestnut-type texture. It's a fair source of vitamin C and potassium.
jack
A fish family of over 200 species, including pompano, amberjack, bar jack, blue runner, crevalle jack, green jack, horse mackerel (not a true mackerel), rainbow runner, rudderfish, trevally, yellow jack and yellowtail. Although some jack species aren't particularly good to eat, many particularly pompano are considered excellent and have a rich, firm, delicately flavored flesh. Jacks are found around the world in the Atlantic, Mediterranean and Pacific. See also fish.
Jack cheese
another name for Monterey Jack cheese.
jackfruit
This huge relative of the breadfruit and fig can weigh up to 100 pounds. Spiny and oval or oblong-shaped, the tropical jackfruit grows in parts of Africa, Brazil and Southeast Asia. When green, both its flesh and edible seeds are included in curried dishes. Ripe jackfruit has a bland, sweet flavor and is generally used for desserts. In the United States, jackfruit is only available canned.
Jagermeister
A 70-proof German liqueur that's a complex blend of 56 herbs, fruits and spices. Serving Jagermeister (which means "hunt master") icy cold helps tame its assertive herbal flavor.
jaggery
This dark, coarse, unrefined sugar (sometimes referred to as palm sugar ) can be made either from the sap of various palm trees or from sugar-cane juice. It is primarily used in India, where many categorize sugar made from sugar cane as jaggery and that processed from palm trees as gur. It comes in several forms, the two most popular being a soft, honeybutter texture and a solid cakelike form. The former is used to spread on breads and confections, while the solid version serves to make candies, and when crushed, to sprinkle on cereal, and so on. Jaggery has a sweet, winey fragrance and flavor that lends distinction to whatever food it embellishes. It can be purchased in East Indian markets. See also sugar.
Jalapeño
a short, tapering chile with thick flesh, a moderately hot, green vegetable flavor and a dark green color (a red version is also available; it is a green chili that has been allowed to ripen); available fresh or canned;named for the Mexican city of Jalapa.
jalapeño chile
Named after Jalapa, the capital of Veracruz, Mexico, these smooth, dark green (scarlet red when ripe) chiles range from hot to very hot. They have a rounded tip and are about 2 inches long and 3/4 to 1 inch in diameter. Besides their flavor, jalapeños are quite popular because they're so easily seeded (the seeds and veins are extremely hot). They're available fresh and canned and are used in a variety of sauces, sometimes stuffed with cheese, fish or meat, and in a multitude of dishes. In their dried form, jalapeños are known as chipotles.
jalousie
A small cake made with flaky pastry, filled with a layer of almond paste topped with jam. A latticed pastry topping allows the colorful jam filling to peek through.
Jam
fresh whole fruit and sugar cooked into a spread that preserves well.
Jamaican hot chile
As the name indicates, this bright red chile is extremely hot. It's small (1 to 2 inches in diameter) and has a distorted, irregular shape. Jamaican hots are often used in curried dishes and condiments. See also chile.
Jamaican jerk seasoning
A dry seasoning blend that originated on the Caribbean island after which it's named, and which is used primarily in the preparation of grilled meat. The ingredients can vary, depending on the cook, but Jamaican jerk blend is generally a combination of chiles, thyme, spices (such as cinnamon, ginger, allspice and cloves), garlic and onions. Jerk seasoning can be either rubbed directly onto meat, or blended with a liquid to create a marinade. In the Caribbean, meats seasoned in this fashion are beef and chicken. Such preparations are referred to as "jerk beef" and "jerk chicken."
Jambalaya
a Creole dish of ham, shrimp, crayfish and or sausage (usually chaurice) cooked with rice, tomatoes, green peppers, onions and seasonings.
Jambon
French for ham.
jardinière, à la
The French term referring to a dish garnished with vegetables, which are served in individual groups arranged around the main dish.
Jardiniere
vegetables cut into strips or a soup containing such vegetables.
Jarlsberg cheese
This mild Swiss-style cheese has large irregular holes. It hails from Norway and has a yellow-wax rind and semifirm yellow interior. The texture is buttery rich and the flavor mild and slightly sweet. It's an all-purpose cheese that's good both for cooking and for eating as a snack. See also cheese.
jasmine rice; jasmin rice
An aromatic rice from Thailand that has a flavor and fragrance comparable to the expensive basmati rice from India, at a fraction of the cost. See also rice.
jell
To congeal a food substance, often with the aid of gelatin.
Jelly
a clear preserve of strained fruit juice with sugar. Jelly of another sort is made by boiling animal or fish bones and tissue.
jelly bag
Used to strain and clarify the juice from fruit in order to prepare jelly. A jelly bag is made from a porous yet closely woven fabric like unbleached muslin. Jelly bags are hung over a bowl with the aid of loops at the top. The crushed fruit is placed in the bowl and left to drain for several hours, preferably overnight. Before use, the jelly bag is rinsed in water and wrung dry. This prevents too much juice from being absorbed into the fabric.
jelly bean
This small, brightly colored, egg-shaped candy has a chewy, gelatinous texture and a hard candy coating. Jelly beans come in many flavors including lime, orange, licorice, cherry, chocolate, banana, etc. Jelly Bellies is a brand name that is now used generically to describe a miniature (about 1/2-inch-long) jelly bean. They come in many more exotic flavors such as piña colada, pink lemonade, chocolate fudge-mint, etc.
Jelly Roll
a thin sponge cake spread with jelly or filling and rolled up.
jelly-roll pan
A rectangular baking pan with about 1-inch-deep sides used to make sheet cakes or sponge cakes used for jelly rolls. These pans are usually 15 1/2 x 10 1/2 x 1 inch; however there is a smaller pan measuring 12 x 7 x 3/4 inch and a larger one measuring 17 x 11 x 1 inch.
jellyfish
An invertebrate marine animal with a soft, gelatinous, umbrellalike anatomy and long, thin tentacles. Jellyfish is popular in chinese cuisines. Asian markets sell it in a dried, salted form, which must be reconstituted by soaking overnight in warm water. The red matter must then be cut away. Jellyfish toughens if excessively cooked, so it's generally quickly blanched in boiling water for only about 15 seconds. It's customarily shredded and served cold in salads for a crunchy texture.
Jerk
a Jamaican preparation method in which meats and poultry are marinated in herbs and spices, then cooked over a pimento (allspice) wood fire; commercial blends of jerk spices are available.
Jerky
Meat, most often beef, cut into long, thin strips and dried. Tough and salty, jerky keeps indefinitely and travels well.
Jeroboam
an oversized bottle, generally holding up to 4 quarts.
Jerusalem artichoke
This vegetable is not truly an artichoke but a variety of sunflower with a lumpy, brown-skinned tuber that often resembles a gingerroot. Contrary to what the name implies, this vegetable has nothing to do with Jerusalem but is derived instead from the Italian word for sunflower, girasole. Because of its confusing moniker, modern-day growers have begun to call Jerusalem artichokes sunchokes, which is how they're often labeled in the produce section of many markets. The white flesh of this vegetable is nutty, sweet and crunchy. Jerusalem artichokes are available from about October to March. Select those that are firm and fresh-looking and not soft or wrinkled. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. After that, they will begin to wither because of moisture loss. They may be peeled or, because the skin is very thin and quite nutritious, simply washed well before being used. Jerusalem artichokes can be eaten raw in salads or cooked by boiling or steaming and served as a side dish. They also make a delicious soup. Jerusalem artichokes are a good source of iron.
jewfish
Found off the coast of Florida and in the Gulf of Mexico, the true jewfish is a member of the grouper family and can weigh up to 750 pounds. Giant sea bass are also sometimes referred to as jewfish. Its firm, white meat is usually sold in steaks and fillets. Jewfish can be cooked in any manner suitable for grouper. See also fish.
Jicama
Used in Latin American cooking, jicama is a member of the potato family. The bulbous, brown root has a thin brown skin and crunchy and sweet white flesh.
Jigger
a liquid measure equal to 1 1/2 fluid ounces.
John Dory
Found in European waters, this incredibly odd-looking fish has an oval, flat body and a large, spiny head. The John Dory's flesh is delicate and mild and can be cooked in a variety of ways including grilling, sautéing and poaching. It's rarely exported to the United States, but porgy may be substituted for any recipe calling for John Dory. See also fish.
johnnycake; johnny cake, jonnycake
Thought to be the precursor of the pancake, the johnnycake dates back to the early 1700s. It's a rather flat griddlecake made of cornmeal, salt and either boiling water or cold milk; there are strong advocates of both versions. Today's johnnycakes often have eggs, oil or melted butter and leavening (such as baking powder) added. Some renditions are baked in the oven, more like traditional cornbread. Also called hoe cake or hoecake.
Johnnycake; Journey Cake
a classic corn bread unique because the meal is water-ground and made from white sweet corn.
Joint
to cut; to cut into pieces at the joint. Also, a British cut of meat for roasting.
Jonathan apple
The spicy fragrance of this bright red apple is to some just as seductive as its juicy, sweet-tart flavor. The Jonathan is in season from September through February. This all-purpose apple is great for out-of-hand eating, and for pies, applesauce and other cooked dishes. It doesn't fare well, however, when used as a baking apple. See also apple.
Jordan almond
This large, plump almond is imported from Spain and sold plain as well as encased in hard pastel candy coatings of various colors. See also almond; nuts.
Jug
a stew made of game meat, particularly hare - jugged hare. The blood of the animal is used in the stew and it is cooked in a jug or an earthenware pot.
Juice
the liquid released or squeezed from any raw food, whether animal or vegetable, but particularly fruit.
juicer
A manual or electric kitchen device used to extract the juice from fruit, and with some models, vegetables. Most of those used strictly for juicing citrus fruits have a ridged cone onto which a halved fruit is pressed. An old-fashioned form of this tool is the reamer, a ridged, teardrop-shaped tool with a handle. A reamer is used primarily for citrus fruits.
Jujube
the edible fruit of a tropical plant also known as the Chinese date. Also, a chewy gelatin candy.
Julienne
to slice food into very thin shreds or strips.
jumble; jumbal
Dating back to early America, this delicate, crisp, ring-shaped cookie was particularly popular in the 1800s. It's like a thin, rich sugar cookie, often made with sour cream and, formerly, scented with rose water. Jumbles can also be made with other flavorings such as orange zest or grated coconut.
Juniper Berry
Hebrew: ערער
These astringent blue-black berries are native to both Europe and America. Juniper berries are too bitter to eat raw and are usually sold dried and used to flavor meats, sauces, stuffings, etc. They're generally crushed before use to release their flavor. These pungent berries are the hallmark flavoring of gin. In fact, the name is derived from the French word for juniper berry — genièvre, which is the name for gin in France.
Junket
milk which has been thickened with rennet, sweetened and is served as dessert. Also, trade name for a flavored dessert mix including rennet.
Jus
French for juice, jus also refers to the unthickened juices from a piece of roasted meat.
kümmel
A sweet, colorless liqueur flavored with caraway seed, cumin and fennel.
kaasdoop
A Dutch specialty that's a gouda-cheese fondue, served with roasted or boiled potatoes and chunks of rye bread.
kabocha squash
New to the United States market, this winter squash has a beautiful jade green rind with celadon green streaks. When cooked, its pale orange flesh is tender-smooth and sweet. An average kabocha ranges from 2 to 3 pounds, though they have been known to weigh as much as 8 pounds. Choose squash that are heavy for their size. The rind should be dull and firm; avoid any with soft spots. Kabochas can be cooked in any way suitable for acorn squash, such as baking or steaming. Before cooking, they must be halved and seeded. See also squash.
Kaffir lime
Grown in Southeast Asia and Hawaii, the kaffir lime tree produces small, pear-shaped citrus fruit with a skin that's bright yellow-green, bumpy and wrinkled. The glossy, dark green kaffir lime leaves, which are used in cooking, have a unique double shape and look like two leaves that are joined end to end. Dried kaffir lime rind and leaves, which have a mysterious flora-citrus aroma, can be found in Asian markets. Fresh leaves, which have a more intense, fragrant aroma, are sometimes also available.
Kahlúa
A coffee-flavored liqueur made in Mexico.
Kahlua
a coffee-flavored liqueur.
Kaiser Roll
a large, round yeast roll with a crisp crust, used for making sandwiches or served as a breakfast roll; also known as a hard roll or Vienna roll.
Kakavia
a Greek fish soup.
kalamata olive
An almond-shaped Greek olive (also spelled calamata ) that ranges in length from about 1/2 to 1 inch. Kalamatas are a dark eggplant color and have a flavor that can be rich and fruity. They're often slit to allow the wine vinegar marinade in which they're soaked to penetrate the flesh. Kalamatas are marketed packed in either olive oil or vinegar. See also olive.
kale
This attractive, nonheading member of the cabbage family has been cultivated for over 2,000 years. Though it grows in warm climates, it's happiest in colder climes where for centuries its high vitamin content has made it particularly popular with northern Europeans. Kale has a mild, cabbagey flavor and comes in many varieties and colors. Most kale is easily identified by its frilly leaves arranged in a loose bouquet formation. The color of the leaves of the varieties most commonly available in the United States is deep green variously tinged with shades of blue or purple. There are ornamental varieties in gorgeous shades of lavender, purple and celadon green. Kale's best during the winter months, though it's available year-round in most parts of the country. Choose richly colored, relatively small bunches of kale, avoiding any with limp or yellowing leaves. Store in the coldest section of the refrigerator no longer than 2 or 3 days. After that, the flavor of kale becomes quite strong and the leaves limp. Because the center stalk is tough, it should be removed before the kale is used. Kale may be prepared in any way suitable for spinach and small amounts make a nice addition to salads. Kale, a cruciferous vegetable, provides ample amounts of vitamins A and C, folic acid, calcium and iron. See also flowering kale.
kamaboko
A loaf or cake of ground or pureed, steamed fish. Kamaboko is available fresh in Asian markets and is generally white but occasionally has food coloring (usually pink or red, sometimes brown, green or yellow) brushed on the surface. It's used in numerous Japanese preparations including soups, noodles and simmered dishes. Chikuwa is kamaboko shaped into rolls formed around bamboo stick. Ita-kamaboko is shaped into squares or rectangles on wood planks that are usually made of cypress. See also surimi.
kampyo
Long, beige, ribbonlike strips of gourd that are dried and used as edible ties for various Japanese food packets. Kampyo is also occasionally used as an ingredient in sushi and in simmered dishes. It can be found packaged in cellophane in Asian markets. Kampyo strips must be softened in water several hours before using.
kamut
The name "kamut" comes from the ancient Egyptian word for "wheat." Considered by some to be the great-great grandfather of grains, kamut is a variety of high-protein wheat that has never been hybridized. Thirty-six kernels were brought to Montana in the late 1940s and, at this writing, the grain is grown commercially only in that state. Kamut's kernels are two to three times the size of most wheat. Not only does this grain have a deliciously nutty flavor, but it also has a higher nutritional value than its modern-day counterparts. In the United States, kamut is available only in processed foods. It's used mainly for pastas, puffed cereal and crackers. Because cultivation is limited, kamut products are hard to find, and are generally only available in health-food stores. See also wheat.
kara age
Japanese deep-frying technique whereby the food (meat, fish or vegetables) is lightly dusted with flour, cornstarch or kuzu before frying.
Kasha
a side dish, like a pasta or rice side dish, served in Eastern Europe. It may be buckwheat, barley, or millet. Also, cooked buckwheat.
Kasseri cheese
Sharp, salty and hard, except when flamed in brandy (as in Saganaki).
katsuobushi; katsuo-bushi
Pink flakes of dried bonito (tuna), which are used in Japanese cooking as a garnish and in some cooked preparations, principally dashi. The tuna is boiled, smoked, then sun-dried. A special tool is used to flake the extremely hard chunks. Katsuobushi can be purchased in Asian markets and the specialty section of some large supermarkets. Depending on how fresh it is when purchased, it can be stored in a cool, dry place up to a year.
kaymak; kaimaki
The Middle Eastern equivalent of clotted cream, kaymak is made by gently heating milk (usually from water buffaloes or goats) until a rich, semisolid layer of cream forms on the surface. After it's cooled, the kaymak is typically used as a spread for bread.
Kebab, Kabob
minced meat or cubes of meat on a skewer, usually marinated before cooking.
kebab; kabob
Small chunks of meat, fish or fish that are usually marinated before being threaded on a skewer and grilled over coals. Pieces of vegetables can also accompany the meat on the skewer. Also called shish kebab and shashlik.
kecap manis; ketjap manis
An intensely dark brown, syrupy-thick Indonesian sauce similar to, but with a sweeter, more complex flavor than, soy sauce. Kecap manis is sweetened with palm sugar (see jaggery) and seasoned with various ingredients, which generally include garlic and star anise. It's used in marinades, as a flavoring in various Indonesian dishes and as a condiment. Kecap manis can be found in Asian markets. Store indefinitely in a cool, dry place.
Kedgeree
an English breakfast dish brought from India, and made of leftover fish, rice and hard-boiled eggs.
kedgeree; kegeree
A spiced East Indian dish of rice, lentils and onions, Anglicized in the 18th century when the English added flaked smoked fish, hard-cooked eggs and a rich cream sauce. Kedgeree is a popular English breakfast dish.
kefir
Kefir comes from high in the Caucasus a 750-mile-long mountain range between the Caspian and Black seas. Today, it's commonly produced from cow's milk. It's a slightly sour brew of fermented milk, most of which contains about 2 1/2 percent alcohol. Kefir is reminiscent in both taste and texture of a liquid yogurt. It's available in cartons or bottles in health-food stores. See also kumiss.
kelp
A generic name for any of the edible, brown seaweeds of the family Laminariaceae. See also kombu.
Kernel
1. The softer, usually edible part, contained within the shell of a nut or a stone of a fruit; also known as the meat. 2. The body of a seed within its husk or other outer covering. 3. A whole seed grain (ex. wheat and corn).
ketchup
Ke-tsiap a spicy pickled-fish condiment popular in 17th-century China is said to be the origin of the name "ketchup." British seamen brought the ke-tsiap home and throughout the years the formula was changed to contain anything from nuts to mushrooms. It wasn't until the late 1700s that canny New Englanders added tomatoes to the blend and it became what we know today as ketchup. Also called catsup and catchup, this thick, spicy sauce is a traditional American accompaniment for French-fried potatoes, hamburgers and many other foods. Ketchup usually has a tomato foundation, though gourmet markets often carry condiments with similar appellations that might have a base of anything from walnuts to mangoes to mushrooms. Vinegar gives ketchup its tang, while sugar, salt and spices contribute to the blend. In addition to being used as a condiment, ketchup is used as an ingredient in many dishes.
Kettle
pot for boiling liquids. In some regions the word has come to mean a pot with a handle and a spout for pouring, as a teakettle.
Key lime pie
A custard pie very similar to a lemon meringue pie, except that it's made with the yellowish, very tart Key lime (see lime) from Florida.
khachapuri
Similar to the Italian calzone, khachapuri is a yeast-dough "package" filled with cheese and baked until the bread is golden and the cheese is melted and bubbly. This Russian specialty hails from Georgia (formerly of the ussr) and comes in various forms, from round to football-shaped, and from a simple and flat to that of a pleated-turban design. It's generally served hot or at room temperature.
kibbeh; kibbi
Particularly popular in Lebanon and Syria, this Middle Eastern dish has myriad variations but basically combines ground meat (usually lamb), bulghur wheat and various flavorings. The meat may be raw or cooked.
kidney
One of the variety meats, the kidney is a glandular organ. The most popular kidneys for cooking are beef, veal, and lamb. They're easily distinguishable because beef and veal kidneys are multi-lobed while lamb is single-lobed. In general, the texture is more tender and the flavor more delicate in younger animals. The kidneys from younger animals are pale while those from older animals become deep reddish-brown; they're also tougher and stronger-flavored. Look for kidneys that are firm, with a rich, even color. Avoid those with dry spots or a dull surface. Kidneys should be used the day they're purchased, or store loosely wrapped in the refrigerator for up to 1 day. Before cooking, remove skin and any excess fat. Soaking helps reduce the strong odor in kidneys from more mature animals. See a general cookbook for details pertaining to the particular type of kidney you wish to cook. Kidneys may be braised, broiled, simmered or cooked in casseroles, stews and dishes like the famous steak and kidney pie. All kidneys are a good source of protein, iron, phosphorus, vitamin A, thiamine and riboflavin.
Kidney Bean
a medium-sized, kidney-shaped bean with a dark red skin, cream-colored firm flesh and a bland flavor; available fresh, dried and canned; also know as red kidney bean.
Kielbasa
Polish sausage.
Kielbasa, Kielbasy
1. A general term used for most Polish sausages. 2. A Polish sausage made from veal (with beer sometimes added) flavored with garlic; smoked, usually precooked and sold in medium to large links; also known as Polish sausage.
kimchee; kimchi
This spicy-hot, extraordinarily pungent condiment is served at almost every Korean meal. It's made of fermented vegetables such as cabbage or turnips that have been pickled before being stored in tightly sealed pots or jars and buried in the ground. It's dug up and used as needed. Commercial kimchi can be purchased in Korean markets. It will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator.
king orange
This large Florida-grown orange has a rather flattened shape and loose rough skin. It has a juicy, sweetly tart flesh and is in season from December to April. See also orange.
kingfish
There are two distinct types of fish known as kingfish. The first is actually the regional name for a king mackerel. The name of the second type, found along the Atlantic coast, applies to any of several species of drum.
kinome
These young leaves of the prickly ash tree have a fresh, subtle mint flavor and a tender texture. They're occasionally available fresh in Japanese markets during the spring. Kinome is used as a garnish for many Japanese dishes. Store the fresh leaves in a plastic bag in your refrigerator's vegetable drawer. They should be used within 3 to 4 days. Though watercress or mint can be used as a substitute for color, nothing can duplicate the flavor of kinome.
kipfel; kipferln
1. A small, crescent-shaped yeast pastry with a filling of chopped nuts and brown sugar. Also known as rugalach. 2. A crescent-shaped, butter-rich cookie with either a jam filling or a filling similar to that of the pastry.
Kipper
fish cured by splitting, salting, and drying or smoking. A breakfast food in England, kippered herring is poached, grilled or baked.
kir
White wine that is flavored with a soupçon of cassis, usually served as an apéritif. When made with champagne, it's referred to as a kir royale.
Kirsch
a cherry-flavored liqueur made of black cherries and their pits.
kirsch; kirschwasser
From the German kirsch ("cherry") and wasser ("water"), this clear brandy is distilled from cherry juice and pits. In cookery, it's most prominently known as a flavorful addition to fondue and cherries jubilee.
kishimen
A broad, flat Japanese wheat noodle, which is slightly thicker and wider than the udon noodle. Kishimen noodles are prepared and used in a similar fashion to udon noodles. See also asian noodles.
kishke; kishka
A Jewish-American sausage made with flour, matzo meal, fat, onions and the cook's choice of ground meat. The mixture is stuffed into a beef casing before being steamed, then roasted. See also sausage.
kiss
1. A small, mound-shape, baked meringue, which often contains chopped nuts, cherries or coconut. The texture of a kiss is light and chewy. 2. The term also applies to small one-bite candies, usually commercially produced.
kissel
Next to ice cream, Russians claim kissel as their favorite dessert. It's a sweetened fruit puree thickened with either cornstarch or potato flour, which gives it a soft-custard texture. Kissel can be served hot or cold, usually topped with cream or a custard sauce.
Kisses
meringues. Also, small chocolate candies roll up in twists of silver paper.
kiwano
Hailing from New Zealand, this oval fruit ranges in length from 3 to 5 inches. It has a bright yellow skin studded with stubby "horns," which is why it's also called a horned melon. The kiwano's pulp is a pale yellow-green color and jellylike in texture with a sweet-tart flavor evocative of bananas and cucumbers. Kiwanos can sometimes be found in specialty produce markets.
kiwi fruit; kiwifruit
Also known as the Chinese gooseberry, this odd-looking fruit received its moniker from the flightless bird of the same name from New Zealand. It looks like a large brown egg with a covering of fine downy hair. But this rather unusual exterior hides a beautiful brilliant green flesh, spattered with tiny edible black seeds. The kiwi's flavor is elusive. Some say it's reminiscent of pineapple... others say strawberry... but all agree that it has a sweet-tart flavor unlike any other fruit. The kiwi is cultivated in both New Zealand and California. Since New Zealand's seasons are the opposite of ours, this delectable fruit is pretty much available year-round. Ripe kiwis can be stored in the refrigerator up to 3 weeks. They can be halved and scooped out like a melon or peeled, sliced and used in salads, desserts or as a garnish. New Zealand's popular pavlova dessert is a favorite local way to feature this fruit's beauty and flavor. Kiwis are a good source of vitamin C.
Kiwi;Kiwi Fruit;Kiwifruti
a small barrel-shaped fruit (Actinidia sinensis) native to New Zealand; has a greenish-brown skin covered with fuzz, brilliant green flesh that becomes more yellow toward the center, many small, edible black seeds and a sweet-tart flavor; named for the flightless bird of New Zealand; also known as the Chinese gooseberry.
knackwurst; knockwurst
Short, thick links of precooked beef sausage that is well flavored with garlic. Knackwurst is usually boiled or grilled before serving, often with sauerkraut. The name comes from the German knack ("crack") and wurst ("sausage"). It was so named from the crackling sound the sausage makes when bitten into. See also sausage.
Knead
to work a dough by hand or in a mixer to distribute ingredients and develop gluten.
Knish
A Jewish pastry made from a piece of dough closed around a mashed potato, cheese and or meat filling.
Knuckle
The ankle joint of beef, veal, and other meat. It is used in stews and pies and particularly in soups.
Kobe beef
An exclusive grade of beef from cattle raised in Kobe, Japan. These pampered cattle are massaged with sake and fed a special diet that includes plentiful amounts of beer. This specialized treatment results in beef that is extraordinarily tender and full-flavored. It also makes the beef extravagantly expensive, which is why it's rarely available in the United States. See also beef.
Kofta
a meat ball popular in the Balkans, the Middle and Far East.
kohlrabi
This vegetable is a member of the turnip family and, for that reason, is also called cabbage turnip. Like the turnip, both its purple-tinged, white bulblike stem and its greens are edible. The kohlrabi bulb tastes like a mild, sweet turnip. It's available from midspring to midfall. Those under 3 inches in diameter are the most tender. Choose a kohlrabi that is heavy for its size with firm, deeply colored green leaves. Avoid any with soft spots on the bulb or signs of yellowing on leaf tips. Store tightly wrapped up to 4 days in the refrigerator. Kohlrabi's best steamed, but can also be added to soups and stews as well as used in stir-fries. It's rich in potassium and vitamin C.
kolacky; kolachke
Claimed by both Poles and Czechs, these sweet yeast buns are filled with poppy seeds, nuts, jam or a mashed fruit mixture.
kombu; konbu
Particularly popular in Japanese cookery, kombu is one of the two basic ingredients used for dashi (soup stock). It's a long dark brown to grayish-black seaweed, which, after harvesting, is sun-dried and folded into sheets. Kombu is sold in Japanese and health-food markets and when stored unopened in a dry place it will keep indefinitely. After opening, store in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months. Kombu has a natural white-powder covering that delivers considerable flavor. For that reason, the surface should be lightly wiped off, not washed. Kombu is used to flavor cooked foods as well as for sushi. It's sometimes pickled and used as a condiment. Kombu is also called simply kelp.
konnyaku
A translucent, gelatinous cake made from the starch of a yamlike tuber known as devil's tongue. Although konnyaku has no noticeable flavor, it readily absorbs the flavors of the simmered dishes to which it's added. There are two types shiru konnyaku, a refined pearly-white version, and kuro konnyaku, an unrefined cake with dark specks in it. Konnyaku is available in the refrigerated section of Asian markets. See also shirataki.
Korma
also, quoorma. A spicy Pakistani/Indian stew made of mutton and yogurt and flavored with the spices that go into a curry.
Kosher
food that conforms to Jewish dietary laws, which were laid down by Moses, according to Biblical accounts of Hebrew history.
kourabiedes
These popular melt-in-the-mouth Greek cookies are served on festive occasions such as christenings, weddings and holiday celebrations. They're buttery-rich and can contain nuts or not, but are always rolled in confectioners' sugar after baking. Kourabiedes come in various forms from balls to ovals to S-shapes. At Christmastime, a clove inserted in the top symbolizes the rare spices brought to Christ by the Magi.
Kreplach
Small ravioli-ish dumplings of Jewish origin, most often filled with meat or cheese.
kuchen
A fruit- or cheese-filled yeast-raised cake, usually served for breakfast but also enjoyed as a dessert. It originated in Germany but is now enjoyed in many variations throughout much of Europe and the United States. The word kaffeekuchen is German for "coffee cake."
Kudzu
A weak-stemmed vine originally from China and Japan. The roots are dehydrated, pulverized and used to thicken soups and coasting foods to be deep fried.
Kugel
A baked pudding made with potatoes or noodles and sometimes meat and vegetables, usually served on the Jewish Sabbath.
kugelhopf; kugelhupf
Though generally thought of as Austrian, bakers from Alsace, Germany and Poland also claim credit for this light yeast cake. It's filled with raisins, candied fruits and nuts, and generally embellished with a simple dusting of confectioners' sugar. It's traditionally baked in a special fluted kugelhopf ring mold. Also called gugelhopf.
Kulich
a traditional Russian Easter cake. It is made of sweet bread dough and candied fruit, baked tall and round like the headgear of a Russian Orthodox priest.
kuminost cheese
Also called nökkelost, this Danish cheese can be made from whole or skimmed cow's milk. It can have either a natural or waxed rind and its interior is pale yellow and semifirm. Kuminost is flavored with cumin, caraway seed and clove and is popular for snacks and sandwiches, as well as melted in dishes such as casseroles and quiches. See also cheese.
kumiss; koumiss
Thought to have originated with the Mongols, this acrid, slightly alcoholic beverage is made from fermented milk. Like kefir, today's kumiss is produced from cow's milk. It's often used as a digestive aid.
Kummel
a sweet liqueur prepared with caraway seed and cumin, made in regions bordering the eastern coast of the Baltic sea.
kumquat
This pigmy of the citrus family looks like a tiny oval or round orange. It's cultivated in China, Japan and the United States. The edible golden orange rind is sweet, while the rather dry flesh is very tart. The entire fruit skin and flesh is eaten, and very ripe fruit can be sliced and served raw in salads or as a garnish. The kumquat is more likely to be found cooked, however, either candied or pickled whole or in preserves or marmalades. Fresh kumquats are available from November to March. Look for firm fruit without blemishes. Refrigerate wrapped in a plastic bag for up to a month. Kumquats contain good amounts of potassium and vitamins A and C.
Lactic Acid
a colorless liquid produced as milk sugar ferments and milk sours. It is used to curdle milk in cheese making.
lactose
This sugar occurs naturally in milk and is also called milk sugar. It's the least sweet of all the natural sugars and is used commercially in foods such as baby formulas and candies.
Ladle
to move portions of a food using a ladle. A utensil with a cup-like bowl and a long hooked or pierced handle and available in various sizes; used to pour sauces and liquids (ex. soups) and to push sauces and other foods through a sieve.
lady apple
A tiny apple that can range in color from brilliant red to yellow with generous red blushing. Its flesh is sweet-tart and it can be eaten raw or cooked. Fresh lady apples are available during the winter months. They're also available canned, and are widely used for garnishing purposes. See also apple.
Lady Baltimore cake
A moist, three-layered white cake with a succulent filling of raisins, nuts and sometimes other fruit such as figs. The cake is covered with a fluffy white frosting such as boiled icing. It was first mentioned by novelist Owen Wister in his 1906 novel, Lady Baltimore. Legend has it that a young woman gave Wister such a cake, which he later chronicled in his novel. See also lord baltimore cake.
ladyfinger
A light, delicate sponge cake roughly shaped like a rather large, fat finger. It's used as an accompaniment to ice cream, puddings and other desserts. Ladyfingers are also employed as an integral part of some desserts, such as charlottes. Ladyfingers can be made at home or purchased in bakeries or supermarkets.
Ladyfingers
a small finger-shaped sponge cake, like a cookie.
Lager
any light beer.
lagniappe; lagnappe
Used primarily in southern Louisiana and southeast Texas, the word lagniappe refers to an "unexpected something extra." It could be an additional doughnut (as in "baker's dozen"), a free "one for the road" drink, an unanticipated tip for someone who provides a special service or possibly a complimentary dessert for a regular customer.
lahvosh; lavosh
A round, thin, crisp bread that's also known as Armenian cracker bread. It comes in a soft version, as well as in various sizes, ranging from about 6 to 14 inches in diameter. Lahvosh is available in Middle Eastern markets and most supermarkets. It's the bread used to make the popular aram sandwich.
lait
French for "milk," such as in café au lait, which is "coffee with milk."
Lamb
the meat of a sheep slaughtered when less than 1 year old; generally tender with a mild flavor; also known as a yearling.
Lambs Fry
the heart, liver, sweetbread and inside fat of the lamb.
Lambs Lettuce
a handy annual plant also known as corn salad. A salad green.
Lambs Wool
a fancy hot alcoholic drink made of hot sweetened ale, roasted apples, and nutmeg or ginger.
Lambert cherry
A sweet cherry variety that's large, round and a deep ruby red. The flesh is sweet, firm and meaty. A superior cherry for out-of-hand eating as well as cooking. See also cherry.
lambrusco
An Italian wine that comes in three versions red, white and rosé. The style best known by Americans is the pale red, semisweet, slightly effervescent Lambrusco. All three variations are made in both semisweet and dry styles, the latter being preferred in Italy. Lambrusco wines are not known for their aging capabilities and should be drunk young.
Lancashire cheese
Made in Lancashire, England, this white cheese can range from soft to semifirm depending on how long it's aged. When young, the flavor is mild yet tangy. It becomes stronger and richer in flavor as it matures. Lancashire melts beautifully. See also cheese.
Lane cake
Particularly popular throughout the South, this white or yellow cake is layered with a mixture of coconut, nuts and dried fruits and covered with a fluffy white frosting. Lane cake is said to have originated in Clayton, Alabama, when its creator, Emma Rylander Lane, won a prize for it in the state fair.
Langouste
see spiny lobster.
Lapsang Souchong
This famous black tea hails from China's Fukian province and is noted for its distinctive smoky essence. See also tea.
Lard
tenderized hog fat used in pie crusts and for deep-frying. Also, to insert strips of fat into meat to keep it moist and add flavor.
Larding needle
a long needle with a large eye, used to insert strips of fat into lean meats.
lardons; lardoons
1. Narrow strips of fat used to lard meats.
lasagna; lasagne
1. A wide (about 2 inches), flat noodle, sometimes with ruffled edges. The plural form is lasagne. 2. A dish made by layering boiled lasagna noodles with various cheeses (usually including mozzarella) with the cook's choice of sauce, the most common being tomato, meat or Béchamel. This dish is then baked until bubbly and golden brown. See also pasta.
Lasagne
1. Wide, flat Italian pasta sheets with ruffled or smooth edges. 2. An Italian dish made with boiled lasagna layered with cheese (usually ricotta and mozzarella) and meats and/or vegetables and topped with a tomato, meat and/or béchamel sauce and baked.
lassi
A popular chilled yogurt drink in India, which can also be made with buttermilk or extra-rich milk. Lassi is like a healthy milk shake, the thickness of which depends on the ratio of yogurt to water. Thick lassi is made with four parts yogurt to one part water and/or crushed ice. Lassi can be flavored variously with salt, mint, cumin, sugar, fruit or fruit juices even spicy additions such as ground chiles, fresh ginger or garlic. The ingredients are all placed in a blender and processed until the mixture is light and frothy.
late harvest
An American wine term referring to wines made from grapes picked toward the end of the harvest (usually late fall), preferably those with botrytis cinerea, a fungus that shrivels the grape thereby concentrating its sugar. Late-harvest wines are very sweet and usually have a high alcohol content. The most popular grapes used for these dessert wines are riesling, gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc.
latke
Traditionally served at Hanukkah, the latke is a pancake usually made from grated potatoes mixed with eggs, onions, matzo meal and seasonings. It's fried and served hot as a side dish.
Laurel
bay leaf.
lavender
A relative of mint, this aromatic plant has violet flowers and green or pale gray leaves, both of which lend their bitter pungency to salads. The leaves may also be used to make herb tea or, more accurately, tisane.
lavender gem
This citrus fruit is a white grapefruit-tangelo cross. The skin and flesh are a pale pink, the flavor sweet. This fruit is usually available only in specialty produce stores. It can be used in any manner appropriate for grapefruit. Lavender gems are also called wekiwas.
laver
This highly nutritious dried seaweed comes in tissue-thin sheets about 7 1/2 inches square. It has a fresh, tangy-sweet flavor and a dark purple color, which is why it's also called purple laver. The Chinese name for this seaweed is jee choy, which means "purple vegetable." Before using, laver must be soaked in cold water. After an hour of soaking, it doubles in size. Laver is often used in soups. Strips of it can also be deep-fried and served as an appetizer.
Layer Cake
two, three or more layers of cake with a filling between.
Lazy Susan
a revolving tray that sits in the middle of a dining table. Usually round.
leaf lettuce
Any of several varieties of lettuce with leaves that branch from a single stalk in a loose bunch rather than forming a tight head. The leaves are crisper and more full-flavored than those of the head lettuce varieties. Depending on the variety, leaf lettuce (also called looseleaf and Simpson lettuce ) can range in color from medium to dark green; some have red-tipped leaves. Among the more popular leaf lettuces are Oak leaf, Salad Bowl, frilly Red Leaf and crinkly Green Leaf. In general, leaf lettuce is more perishable than head lettuce. Choose bunches with crisp, evenly colored leaves with no sign of wilting or yellowing at the edges. As with all greens, leaf lettuce should be washed and either drained completely or blotted with a paper towel to remove any excess moisture before being refrigerated in a plastic bag. It will keep this way up to about 3 days. See also lettuce.
Lean
the FDA-approved food-labeling term used to describe meat, poultry, game, fish or shellfish that contains less than 10 grams of fat, less than 4 grams of saturated fat and less than 95 mg of cholesterol per serving or per 100 grams.
Leaven
to lighten and increase the volume of bakery products. Leavening agents are yeast, baking powder, baking soda and eggs.
leavener; leavening agent
Agents that are used to lighten the texture and increase the volume of baked goods such as breads, cakes and cookies. Baking powder, baking soda and yeast are the most common leaveners used today. When mixed with a liquid they form carbon dioxide gas bubbles, which cause a batter or dough to rise during (and sometimes before) the baking process. Some foods, such as angel food cake and sponge cake, are leavened by the air beaten into egg whites. When heated, the egg whites cook and set, trapping the air inside and creating a light, airy cake.
Leavening agent; Leavener
1. A substance used to leaven a dough or batter; may be natural (ex. air or steam), chemical (ex. baking powder or baking soda) or biological (ex. yeast). 2. A type of food additive used to produce or stimulate production of carbon dioxide in baked goods to impart a light texture.
leberkäse sausage
This smooth, delicate veal pâté is made with onion, garlic and eggs. The tubular sausage is cut into thick slices and either steamed or gently sautéed. Leberkäse is served warm or at room temperature. It's delicious with rye bread and mustard. See also sausage.
lebkuchen
This thick, cakelike cookie is a specialty of Nuremberg and one of the most popular in Germany. It's honey-sweetened, full of spices, citron and almonds and often topped with a hard confectioners' sugar glaze. Lebkuchen has been made for centuries and is often baked in decorative molds to shape the cookie into intricate designs. See also cookie.
leche
The Spanish word for "milk."
lecithin
A fatty substance obtained from egg yolks and legumes, used to preserve, emulsify and moisturize food. Lecithin-vegetable oil sprays (available in every supermarket) can be used instead of high-calorie oils for greasing pans and sautéing foods.
leckerle; leckerli
This popular Swiss cookie comes in two versions one made with honey, one with ground almonds. Both are chewy and delicious. The dough is traditionally pressed into special wooden molds, which imprint designs on the surface of the cookies.
Lees
the sediment of dregs left as wine or liquors ferments. Also, the settling of a liquid.
legume
Any of thousands of plant species that have seed pods that split along both sides when ripe. Some of the more common legumes used for human consumption are beans, lentils, peanuts, peas and soybeans. Others, such as clover and alfalfa, are used as animal fodder. When the seeds of a legume are dried, they're referred to as pulses. The high-protein legumes are a staple throughout the world. They contain some vitamin B, carbohydrates, fats and minerals. See also black-eyed pea; chickpea; english pea; field pea; soybean; winged bean; yard-long bean.
Legumes
a large group of plants that have double-seamed pods, containing a single row of seeds; depending on the variety, the seeds, pod and seeds together, or the dried seeds, are eaten.
Leicester cheese
This orangy-red, cow's-milk cheese resembles cheddar but has a higher moisture content. Its crumbly texture makes slicing difficult but facilitates grating. The flavor is mellow with a tangy aftertaste. Leicester melts beautifully. It's also good for snacks and makes a mild accompaniment for fruit. See also cheese.
lekvar
A thick, soft spread made of fruit (usually prunes or apricots) cooked with sugar. This Hungarian specialty is used to fill a variety of pastries and cookies. Lekvar can be purchased in cans or jars in most supermarkets.
Lemon
a citrus fruit (Citrus limon) with a bright yellow skin, and an ovoid shape with a bulge at the blossom end, juicy yellow flesh and a very tart, distinctive flavor.
lemon balm
Widely available in Europe, this herb has lemon-scented, mintlike leaves that are often used to brew an aromatic tea (tisane). Its slightly tart flavor is used to flavor salads as well as meats and poultry. Also called simply balm.
lemon grass
One of the most important flavorings in Thai cooking, this herb has long, thin, gray-green leaves and a scallionlike base. Citral, an essential oil also found in lemon peel, gives lemon grass its sour-lemon flavor and fragrance. Lemon grass is available fresh or dried in Asian (particularly Thai) markets. It's used to make tea and to flavor soups and other dishes. Lemon grass is also called citronella and sereh.
Lemon Sole
a particularly delicate flounder taken in the waters of Georges Bank, Cape Cod and Massachusetts.
lemon verbena
Native to South America, the long, slender leaves of this potent herb have an overpowering lemonlike flavor. For that reason, a light touch is necessary when adding lemon verbena (also called simply verbena ) to food. It's available dried and sometimes fresh in specialty produce markets. It's used to flavor fruit salads and some sweet dishes, and for tea (tisane).
Lemongrass,Citronella
A lemon-scented herb used liberally in Thai cooking.
lentil
Popular in parts of Europe and a staple throughout much of the Middle East and India, this tiny, lens-shaped pulse has long been used as a meat substitute. There are three main varieties of lentils. The French or European lentil, sold with the seed coat on, has a grayish-brown exterior and a creamy yellow interior. The reddish orange Egyptian or red lentil is smaller, rounder and sans seed coat. There's also a yellow lentil. None of these varieties are used fresh but are dried as soon as they're ripe. The regular brown lentils are commonly found in supermarkets whereas the red and yellow lentils, though available in some supermarkets, must usually be purchased in Middle Eastern or East Indian markets. Lentils should be stored airtight at room temperature and will keep up to a year. They can be used as a side dish (pureed, whole and combined with vegetables), in salads, soups and stews. One of the most notable showcases for the lentil is the spicy East Indian dal. Lentils have a fair amount of calcium and vitamins A and B, and are a good source of iron and phosphorus.
Lentils
the small flat seeds of a variety of legumes (Lens esculenta); sold shelled, dried or cooked.
Lettuce
any of a variety of plants of the genus Lactuca, probably native to the Mediterranean and now grown worldwide; their leaves are generally consumed fresh in salads or used as a garnish. There are three principal types of lettuces: butterhead, crisp head and leaf.
Leyden cheese
Flavored with caraway or cumin seeds, this Dutch cheese is made from a combination of partially skimmed cow's milk and buttermilk. It's spicy and semisoft and delicious as a snack, especially when served with dark bread and dark beer. See also cheese.
Liaison
a thickening or binding agent for soups, sauces, stuffings and so on. Examples are flour, beurre manié (see above), cornstarch, eggs, arrowroot, etc.
licorice
1. This feathery-leaved plant grows wild throughout southern and parts of central Europe. It's favored for the extract taken from its root as well as for the root itself when dried and has long been used to flavor confections and medicine. 2. A candy flavored with licorice extract.
Liebfraumilch
This lightly sweet German white wine is made from a blend that often includes Riesling, Silvaner or Müller-Thurgau grapes. Its quality varies greatly depending on the shipper.
Liederkranz cheese
This American original was created in 1882 by Emil Frey, a New York cheesemaker. He named it after a New York singing society of the same name, whose members were great fans of the cheese. Made from cow's milk, Liederkranz has an edible, pale yellow crust and semisoft, ivory interior. The flavor is mildly pungent and the aroma distinctive. As it matures, the crust turns golden brown and the cheese a deep honey color; both flavor and aroma become much stronger. Liederkranz makes a full-flavored snack cheese and is particularly well complemented by dark bread and dark beer. See also cheese.
Light
the FDA-approved food-labeling term used to describe a nutritionally altered food with at least 33% less calories, 50% less fat or 50% less sodium than the regular or reference (i.e. FDA standard) food.
Lights
the lungs of an animal.
Lillet
A French apéritif made from a blend of wine, brandy, fruits and herbs. It originated in the French village of Podensac and has been made since the late 1800s. Lillet Blanc is made from white wine and is drier than Lillet Rouge, its red-wine counterpart. Both are classically served over ice with an orange twist.
lima bean
This New World bean was named for Lima, Peru, where it was found as early as 1500. There are two distinct varieties of lima the Fordhook and the baby lima (and Fordhooks are not adult baby limas). Both are pale green, plump-bodied and have a slight kidney-shape curve. The Fordhook is larger and plumper than the baby lima. It also has a fuller flavor than its smaller relative. Fresh limas are available from June to September. They're usually sold in their pods, which should be plump, firm and dark green. The pods can be refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to a week. They should be shelled just before using. Frozen lima beans are available year-round and are labeled according to variety (Fordhook or baby). Canned and dried limas are usually labeled "jumbo," "large" or "small," a designation that relates to size and not variety. In the South, dried limas are frequently referred to as butter beans. When mottled with purple they're called calico or speckled butter beans. A traditional way to serve limas is with corn in succotash. They're also used alone as a side dish, in soups and sometimes in salads. Lima beans contain a good amount of protein, phosphorus, potassium and iron. The lima is also called the Madagascar bean. See also bean.
Limburger cheese
Undoubtedly the stinkiest of the strong-smelling cheeses, limburger has a rind that ranges in color from yellow to reddish-brown and a yellow, pasty interior. This strong, pungently flavored cheese is made from cow's milk and is soft-ripened for about 3 months. Though it originated in Belgium and is now also made in the United States, most limburger comes from Germany. The imports continue to ripen during transit, however, and often arrive devastatingly odorous. Though it's definitely categorized among those foods that are an "acquired taste," limburger has legions of fans. It's best served with full-flavored food and drink such as onions, dark breads and dark beer. See also cheese.
Lime
an ovoid citrus fruit (Citrus aurantifolia) with a thin, green skin; smaller than a lemon, it has a juicy, pale green pulp and a very tart flavor.
Limoncello
Lemon liqueur.
limpa bread
Also called Swedish limpa, this moist rye bread is flavored with fennel or anise, cumin and orange peel. The result is an immensely flavorful, fragrant loaf of bread.
limu
Hawaiian word for seaweed, of which there are over two dozen varieties included in the native Hawaiian diet. Among the more popular types are the deep green limu ele'ele, the reddish-brown limu kohu, the pale brown limu lipoa and limu manauea, which ranges in color from yellow ocher to magenta.
line
v. A pan is lined for many reasons to prevent the mixture in it from sticking, to provide structure to a soft mixture or to add texture and/or flavor. The lining can be a nonedible material such as parchment paper, thin slices of cake (for structure, as in a charlotte), slices of cured meat (as with a pâté) or a simple coating of bread or cookie crumbs.
lingcod
Found on the North American Pacific coast, lingcod is not really a cod but a greenling. This fish won't win any beauty contests, but its mildly sweet flavor and firm, lowfat texture makes up for its appearance. Lingcod ranges from 3 to 20 pounds and is available whole or as steaks or fillets. It can be prepared in almost any manner including baking, broiling, frying or grilling. Lingcod also does nicely in soups and stews. See also fish.
lingonberry
This tiny cowberry (a member of the cranberry family) grows wild in the mountainous regions of Scandinavia, Russia, Canada and in the United States Maine. The tart red berries are available fresh only in the regions where they're grown. They can be purchased as sweet sauces or preserves, however, and make excellent accompaniments for pancakes, crêpes, puddings, etc.
linguiça
Heavily flavored with garlic, this slim (about 1/2 inch in diameter) Portuguese sausage can be found in Latin American markets and many supermarkets. It's used in many Latin dishes such as Brazil's feijoada and Portugal's caldo verde. See also sausage.
Linguine
Italian for small tongue and used to describe long, narrow, slightly flattened strands of pasta.
Linzer Torte
a double hazelnut cookie filled with jam and made famous in Vienna, Austria.
linzertorte
Though it's now famous around the world, the motherland of this elegant, rich tart is Linz, Austria. Ground almonds, grated lemon rind and spices add their magic to the buttery crust, which is spread with jam (usually raspberry) before being topped with a lattice of crust. After baking, the tart is served at room temperature.
Liptauer cheese
Hailing from and named after a province in Hungary, Liptauer contains about 45 percent fat and is made from sheep's milk. This soft, fresh cheese has a mild flavor that is commonly seasoned with herbs, onions, garlic and paprika (which turns it red). It's a delicious snack cheese, which, depending on the flavoring, can go nicely with anything from beer to white wine. Though in Hungary the cheese itself is referred to as "Liptauer," those in German-speaking countries use the same word to describe the cheese when mixed with flavorings. See also cheese.
Liqueur
a sweet alcoholic drink also known as a cordial and as a digestif, to be drunk after meals and served in small glasses. Also used to flavor desserts and in pastry making.
liquor
1. A distilled, alcoholic beverage made from a fermented mash of various ingredients including grains or other plants. whiskey, gin, vodka and rum are among the most popular. See also aquavit; arrack; bourbon; brandy; malt liquor; mescal; okolehao; scotch whisky; tequila. 2. pot liquor or pot likker refers to the liquid resulting from cooking meats or vegetables.
litchi; litchi nut; lychee
One of China's cherished fruits for over 2,000 years, the small (1 to 2 inches in diameter) litchi has a rough, bright red shell. The creamy white flesh is juicy, smooth and delicately sweet. It surrounds a single seed. Native to Southeast Asia, the litchi is cultivated in subtropical regions including California, Florida and Hawaii. Fresh litchis are available from June to about mid-July. Choose those with brightly colored skins free of blemishes. Place in a plastic bag and refrigerate unshelled for up to a week. Shell, seed and eat plain or as part of a fruit salad or dessert. Canned and dried litchis are available year-round. When dried they're often referred to as litchi nuts because they resemble a nut the shell turns a dark reddish brown and the flesh becomes brown and crisp. They're eaten as a snack, much in the same way as nuts or candy.
liver
The largest and one of the most important organs, liver has immense nutritional value... providing, that is, that it comes from a fairly young animal. Because liver acts as a clearinghouse for substances that enter the body, it tends to store and absorb unwanted chemicals, medicines and hormones that an animal might be fed. Naturally, the older the animal the greater the accumulation of these unwanted substances, which, according to some, offset liver's nutritional value. For this very reason, many people choose the more expensive calf's liver over beef liver. There are several ways to distinguish between the two. The color of beef liver is reddish-brown, compared to the paler pinkish-brown of calf's liver. Liver from a mature animal also has a stronger odor and flavor than that from a youngster. Additionally, it will be less tender. Besides beef and calf's, the most common animal livers used in cookery are lamb, poultry and goose, the latter used mainly to produce pâté de foie gras. Poultry livers are the most mild and tender of the lot. All livers are usually available fresh beef and chicken livers may also be purchased frozen (though the quality of frozen liver is considerably lower than that of fresh). While chicken livers are sold whole, most of those from other animals are marketed sliced. Look for liver that has a bright color and moist (not slick) surface. It should have a fresh, clean smell. Refrigerate loosely wrapped for no more than a day. Liver can be prepared in a variety of ways though quick sautéing is the most popular. It toughens quickly with overcooking. Liver is rich in iron, protein and vitamin A.
liverwurst
A broad term for "liver sausage" referring to well-seasoned, ready-to-eat sausage made from at least 30 percent liver mixed with other meat. The texture of liverwurst can range from firm enough to slice to creamy-smooth and spreadable. It can be smoked or plain and comes in large links, loaves and slices. It's generally used for snacks and sandwiches and is especially suited to rye bread and crackers. See also sausage; braunschweiger the most popular of the liverwursts.
Lo Mein
1. Fresh Chinese egg noodles. 2. A Chinese-American dish of poultry, shrimp and/or meat with vegetables such as bean sprouts, mushrooms, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots and green onions served over soft noodles.
loganberry
There's disagreement as to the origin of this beautiful ruby red, blackberry-shaped berry. Some botanists think it's a separate species while others consider it a raspberry-blackberry hybrid. All agree that it was discovered by California Judge J. H. Logan in the late 1800s. Available in June and July, the loganberry is juicy and sweetly tart, and turns purple-red when very ripe. Choose plump, brightly colored berries that are uniform in size. Avoid soft, shriveled or moldy fruit. Do not wash until ready to use, and store (preferably in a single layer) in a moistureproof container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. Loganberries are delicious both cooked and fresh. They make wonderful jams and preserves.
loin
Depending on the animal, the loin comes from the area on both sides of the backbone extending from the rib to the leg (in beef, lamb and veal). Beef loin is divided into short loin and sirloin. In general, the loin is a tender cut that can be butchered into chops, steaks and roasts.
London broil
1. A flank steak that has been cut into large pieces, tenderized by marinating, broiled or grilled, then thinly sliced across the grain. 2. A term also used for various thick cuts of meat including sirloin tip (see sirloin) and top round (see round).
Long Island tea
A potent mixed drink composed of gin, vodka, cola and lemon. It's served in a tall glass over ice. Sometimes tequila is also added to the mix.
longan
Also called dragon's eye, this native Southeast Asian fruit is small (about 1 inch in diameter) and round and has a thin brown shell. Inside is a translucent white, juicy-soft pulp that surrounds a large black seed. The perfumy flavor is delicate and sweet. Fresh longans can occasionally be found in Asian markets during July and August. They may be refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 3 weeks. The easy-to-peel shell must be removed before eating. Dried and canned longans are available year-round. Longans are eaten as a snack and used in some Asian soups, sweet-and-sour dishes and desserts.
longhorn cheese
Named after the longhorn cow, this cheese is a mild form of cheddar. It comes in cylinders and rectangles. See also cheese.
Loquat
a small citrus fruit that sweetens as it ripens. It is good peeled, stewed with sugar, and served with cream or combined with other fruits.
Lord Baltimore cake
A three-layered yellow cake with a filling of chopped pecans or almonds, maraschino cherries and macaroon crumbs. The cake is covered with a fluffy white frosting such as boiled icing. See also lady baltimore cake.
lotus
A water lily whose leaves, root and seeds are frequently used in Asian cooking. The huge lotus leaves have a diameter of from 11 to 15 inches. They can be found fresh and dried in Asian markets. These leaves are used both as a flavoring and to wrap sweet and savory mixtures (rice, meat, fruit, etc.) for steaming. The underwater lotus root can be up to 4 feet long. It looks like a solid-link chain with 8-inch lengths, each about 3 inches in diameter. It has a reddish-brown skin that must be peeled before using. The lotus root's creamy-white flesh has the crisp texture of a raw potato and a flavor akin to fresh coconut. Besides the fresh form, it's also available canned, dried and candied. Lotus root is used as a vegetable as well as in sweet dishes. The oval, delicately flavored lotus seeds are eaten out of hand both in their fresh and dried forms. Dried lotus seeds are also candied and used in desserts and pastry fillings. They can be purchased canned or in bulk in Asian markets. The lotus is also called hasu and renkon.
Lotus Root
a water lily whose root is used as a vegetable. It is crisp when fresh. Sold dried, cut into rounds in Oriental markets.
Lotus Seeds
small and nutlike, these can be eaten raw or cooked into a stuffing.
Louis sauce
A sauce made of mayonnaise, chili sauce, cream, scallions, green peppers, lemon juice and seasonings. This dressing is wonderful with all manner of cold fish dishes.
loukanika sausage
Seasoned with orange rind, this Greek sausage is made with lamb. Loukanika is a fresh sausage and must therefore be cooked before eating. It's usually cut into chunks and sautéed. See also sausage.
Loup
European bass.
Lovage
A celery-like vegetable.
love apple
A tomato moniker that originated in the 16th century when tomatoes from North Africa were known in Italy as pomo dei Mori, "apples of the Moors." That was transliterated to the French pomme d'amour... "love apple."
Luau
a traditional Hawaiian freest featuring roast pig.
lumache
Italian for "snails," referring culinarily to large pasta shells intended for stuffing.
lumpia; lumpia wrapper
This Philippine version of the egg roll consists of a lumpia wrapper (a thin "skin" made of flour or cornstarch, eggs and water) wrapped around a filling and fried. Sometimes a lettuce leaf is used to enfold the filling mixture, in which case lumpia is not fried. The filling can be made of chopped raw or cooked vegetables, meat or a combination of the two. Lumpia can be served as an appetizer or side dish.
lutefisk; lutfisk
A Scandinavian specialty made with unsalted dried cod. The age-old preparation method is to soak the dried cod in regularly changed cold water for a period of eight days. The cod is then soaked for two days in a mixture of water and potash lye, after which it's soaked for two more days in fresh water. (Thankfully, for fans of this dish, ready-to-cook lutefisk is commercially available.) The final step is simmering the fish for 10 to 15 minutes, just until it becomes translucent. Just before serving, lutefisk is sprinkled with allspice, salt and white pepper. It's accompanied with white sauce (see Béchamel) and, typically, boiled potatoes.
Lychee
a small fruit native to South China. It has a sweet-sour flavor and is considered as good canned as fresh.
Lyonnaise sauce
A classic French sauce made with white wine, sautéed onions and demi-glace. The sauce is strained before being served with meats and sometimes poultry.
Lyonnaise, à la
in the style of Lyons, literally, and usually featuring shredded fried onions as a garnish. Lyons is a city in central France famous for its cuisine.
Mâche
Dark, tangy greens used most often in salads.
Maître DHôtel
head waiter, but on menus, a dish that is cooked quickly and simply with parsley as the featured flavor.
Maître DHôtel Butter
a parsley butter excellent with grilled meats or fish and vegetables, especially carrots. The recipe calls for butter, minced parsley, lemon juice, salt and pepper blended. (Be wary of mincing the parsley in a blender; overblended in a blender or a processor, parsley releases a bitter juice that spoils the food it is combined with. You can avoid overblending by cutting only a small handful at a time in the machine).
maître d' butter; maître d'hôtel butter
A compound butter made by blending together softened butter, lemon juice or vinegar, chopped parsley and seasonings. It is served as an accompaniment to fish, poultry and meat.
maître d'hôtel; maître d'
A headwaiter or house steward, sometimes informally referred to simply as maître d'.
macédoine
A dish of colorful, attractively cut fresh fruits or, less commonly, vegetables, either of which may be raw or cooked. The fruits are customarily either briefly soaked or drizzled with a mixture of sugar syrup and liqueur. A fruit macédoine is served for dessert, either cold or flambéed. For a savory macédoine, each vegetable is cooked separately, then artfully arranged together on a plate and dressed with seasoned melted butter. It can be served as a side dish or a first course.
Macadamia Nut
a round, costly, and delicious nut sold shelled and bottled. It is the fruit of a subtropical evergreen native to Australia but most that reach the market come from Hawaii (also grown in California). Seeds were brought to Hawaii in 1880, and the nuts first were offered on the market in the 1930s.
Macaroni
1. Dried pasta made from a dough of wheat flour and water. 2. In the United States, specifically, short elbow-shaped tubes of pasta.
macaroon
A small cookie classically made of almond paste or ground almonds (or both) mixed with sugar and egg whites. Almond macaroons can be chewy, crunchy or a combined texture with the outside crisp and the inside chewy. There is also a coconut macaroon, which substitutes coconut for the almonds. Macaroons can be flavored with various ingredients such as chocolate, maraschino cherries or orange peel.
maccheroni
The Italian word for all types of macaroni, from hollow tubes, to shells, to twists.
Mace
1. A spice that tastes and smells like a pungent version of nutmeg. 2. Mace is the bright red membrane that covers the nutmeg seed. After the membrane is removed and dried it becomes a yellow-orange color. It's sold ground and, less frequently, whole (in which case it's called a "blade"). Mace is used to flavor all manner of foods, sweet to savory.
Macerate
1.To soak a food (usually fruit) in a liquid in order to infuse it with the liquid's flavor. A spirit such as brandy, rum or a liqueur is usually the macerating liquid.
mackerel
Any of several species of fish found in the Atlantic Ocean off both the North American and European coasts. The king mackerel (also called kingfish ) is probably the most well known of this family of fish. The mackerel has a firm, high-fat flesh with a pleasant savory flavor. When small (about 1 pound), it's sold whole. Larger fish are cut into fillets and steaks. Mackerel is also available smoked or salted. The latter must be soaked overnight before using to leach excess salt. Mackerel can be cooked in almost any manner including broiling, baking and sautéing. See also fish.
Macoun apple
This favorite East Coast apple is small to medium-size and wine red in color. It's crisp, juicy and sweetly tart. The Macoun is considered an all-purpose apple, but is especially good for eating out of hand. See also apple.
Madagascar bean
Another name for lima bean.
Madeira
Named after the Portuguese-owned island where it's made, Madeira is a distinctive fortified wine that's subjected to a lengthy heating process during maturation. It can range in color from pale blond to deep tawny and runs the gamut from quite dry to very sweet. The pale golden Sercial is the lightest, driest Madeira, while the rich, dark Malmsey is the sweetest. Bual and Verdelho are both medium-sweet wines. The flavor of American-made Madeiras cannot compare with that of the Portuguese originals... but then they're a fraction of the price. The lighter Madeiras are often served as apéritifs, while the richer, darker Malmsey is perfect for after-dinner sipping. Madeira is also an excellent cooking wine and can be used in both sweet and savory preparations.
Madeira cake
A traditional English favorite that's like a simple pound cake, the top of which is sprinkled with candied lemon peel halfway through baking. The name comes from the fact that it is usually served with a glass of madeira. Some cooks also sprinkle the baked cake with Madeira before it cools.
Madeleine
a small cake baked in a shell-shaped mold. Also, a garnish of artichoke bottoms, onions and green beans.
Madrilène
a consommé flavored with tomato, usually served cold.
mafalda
A broad, flat noodle that resembles a narrow, ripple-edged lasagna noodle. See also pasta.
magdalena
Thought by some to be Spain's answer to the French madeleine, magdalenas are small sponge cakes made with eggs, flour and olive oil although many modern versions use sunflower oil instead. Although these small cakes have been made for special holidays since the Middle Ages, they are now so popular that they're an everyday pleasure for most Spaniards. Magdalenas have an invitingly tender, moist texture and shiny, golden brown tops. They come in three basic shapes the classic, high-domed round, a flat-topped round and an oblong shape.
magliette
Short, curved tubes of pasta.
Magnum
a single bottle with a capacity of two bottles or about 2/5 gallon, or 160 centiliters.
mahi mahi; mahi-mahi
Though this is actually a type of dolphin, it shouldn't be confused with the dolphin that is a mammal. To avoid this misunderstanding, the Hawaiian name mahi mahi is becoming more widespread. Also called dolphinfish and dorado, mahi mahi is found in warm waters throughout the world. It's a moderately fat fish with firm, flavorful flesh. It ranges in weight from 3 to 45 pounds and can be purchased in steaks or fillets. Mahi mahi is best prepared simply, as in grilling or broiling. See also fish.
mahleb; mahlab
Used in the Middle East as a flavoring in baked goods, mahleb is ground black-cherry pits. It can be purchased in Greek or Middle Eastern markets, either prepackaged or ground to order.
mai tai
A potent, complex mixed drink made with light and dark rums, orgeat syrup, curaçao, orange and lime juices and any other touches the bartender might add. It's served over ice and garnished with a skewer of fresh fruit. The mai tai is said to have been created by Victor Bergeron, the original owner of Trader Vic's restaurant, who said he created it for a couple of Tahitian friends. On tasting it, they reportedly exclaimed, "Mai Tai!" meaning "out of this world."
mais
French for "corn" or "corn on the cob."
maison
The French word for "house." On a menu, such a designation like pâté maison refers to a specialty of the house or to the fact that the dish was made by the house chef.
maiz
The Mexican and Spanish word for "corn."
maize
The European word for corn.
Maize Bread
American corn bread, also known as corn pone, spoon bread, egg cake and ash cake. Each of these is made by a somewhat different method, but all have cornmeal as the base.
Malanga
A root vegetable that looks similar to a coconut, with potato-like flesh.
malic acid
A natural acid found in sour apples and other fruits. In winemaking, when certain bacteria convert malic acid to lactic acid (which is much less strong and sour), a process called "malolactic fermentation" occurs. This reduces the wine's tartness, adds complexity to the flavor and sometimes contributes a slight sparkle. Malic acid is used as an acidulant as well as a flavoring agent in the processing of some foods.
Malt
sprouted barley used to brew beer or distill spirits.
malt liquor
A beer that has a relatively high alcohol content by weight usually from 5 to 8 percent, with several varieties reaching as high as 9 percent. See also beer.
malt syrup
A natural sweetener made from a filtered, evaporated mash of ground corn and sprouted barley. Found in health-food stores, malt syrup has an earthy, full-bodied flavor and is 75 to 80 percent as sweet as honey. Plain malt syrup is sweeter than the hop-flavored style, which has a bitter edge. Malt syrup may be substituted for other syrupy sweeteners. It's also referred to as malt extract.
Maltaise sauce; Maltese sauce
hollandaise sauce blended with orange juice and grated orange rind, used to top cooked vegetables, particularly asparagus and green beans.
Malted Milk
a drink made from powdered wheat and malted barley extracts, mixed with milk and sometimes, added flavorings like chocolate, strawberry, etc.
maltose
Also called malt sugar, this disaccharide plays an important role in the fermentation of alcohol by converting starch to sugar. It also occurs when enzymes react with starches (such as wheat flour) to produce carbon dioxide gas (which is what makes most bread doughs rise).
manchego cheese
Spain's most famous cheese, so named because it was originally made only from the milk of Manchego sheep that grazed the famous plains of La Mancha. Manchego is a rich, golden, semifirm cheese that has a full, mellow flavor. The two that are most commonly exported are curado, aged between 3 and 4 months, and viejo, aged longer. Manchego is a wonderful snack cheese and melts beautifully in heated dishes. See also cheese.
Mandarin
1. Any of several varieties of a small citrus fruit (Citrus reticulata) native to China, including the mandarin, dancy, tangerine clementine and satsuma. 2. A citrus fruit; generally has a somewhat flattened spherical shape, loose yellow to reddish-orange rind, orange flesh and a sweet flavor that is less acidic than that of an orange.
Mandarin orange
A loose-skinned orange category that includes several varieties that can be sweet or tart, seedless or not and can range in size from as small as an egg to as large as a medium grapefruit. They all, however, have skins that slip easily off the fruit. Among the more well-known mandarin-orange family members are clementine, dancy, satsuma and tangerine. The tiny clementine has a thin peel and a tangy-sweet red-orange flesh that's usually seedless. It's cultivated in Spain and North Africa and can usually be found only in specialty produce markets. Dancy oranges are similar in size and color (and equally rich-flavored) to clementines but have a plenitude of seeds. The small Japanese satsuma oranges are almost seedless. Most of the canned mandarin oranges on the market are satsumas. The most common mandarin found in the United States is the tangerine, which has a thick, rough skin and sweet flesh. It was named for the city of Tangier, Morocco. Mandarin oranges can, depending on the variety, be found in the market from November through June. See also orange; tangelo.
Mandarin pancakes
Chinese crêpes, usually made with wheat flour and used to wrap foods such as peking duck.
Mandarine liqueur
An orange-flavored liqueur made with cognac and mandarin oranges.
mandelbrot
From the German words mandel ("almond") and brot ("bread"), this Jewish favorite is a crisp almond bread that is eaten as a cookie.
mandoline
A compact, hand-operated slicing machine with various adjustable blades or inserts for thin to thick slicing and for julienne and french-fry cutting. Mandolines have folding legs and come in plastic, wood- or stainless steel-frame models. They're used to cut firm vegetables and fruits (such as potatoes and apples) with uniformity and precision. On most machines, the food is held in a metal carriage on guides so that fingers aren't in danger. V-slicers are a less expensive alternative for the home cook.
mange-tout
French for "eat everything," referring to a bean or pea, such as the sugar snap pea, where everything pod to seed is edible.
Mango
a tropical fruit the size of a small pear, in its original species, but today mango hybrids are as large as small or medium grapefruits. From India, and a key ingredient in some of the best chutneys, notably Major Greys. The fruit is yellow shaded red when ripe, and is peeled before eating. Best chilled, and ripe enough to be softly yielding. Delicious taste between a pineapple and a very ripe peach.
mangosteen
Widely cultivated in the Asian tropics, the mangosteen is no relation to the mango. In size and structure, it's much like a tangerine, having 5 to 8 fruit segments. The segmented flesh is soft, cream-colored and juicy. It has a tantalizingly sweet-tart flavor that is extremely refreshing. The hard skin of the mangosteen is a dark purple-brown. Unfortunately, the mangosteen is rarely imported to the United States.
Manhattan
A cocktail made with bourbon or blended whiskey mixed with sweet vermouth. It's served over ice and garnished with a maraschino cherry. A perfect Manhattan uses equal parts sweet and dry vermouth, while a dry Manhattan uses all dry vermouth.
manicotti
Tube-shaped noodles about 4 inches long and 1 inch in diameter. They're available packaged in supermarkets. Manicotti are boiled, then stuffed with a meat or cheese mixture, covered with a sauce and baked. See also pasta.
Manioc
Cassava, the source plant for tapioca.
mannitol
A white, crystalline sweetener added to processed foods for the purpose of thickening, stabilizing and sweetening.
manzanilla
A favorite apéritif in its native Spain, manzanilla is a light, extremely dry sherry. It's served cold, often to accompany fish, and is commonly used in savory sauces.
maple sugar; maple syrup
The American Indians taught the Colonists how to tap the maple tree for its sap and boil it down to what the Indians called "sweetwater." Canada, New York and Vermont are all known for their superior maple products. The maple-tapping season (called "sugar season") usually begins sometime around mid-February and can last anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks. The "sugarmakers" insert spouts into the maple trees (a grove of which is called a "sugarbush") and hang buckets from them to catch the sap. Some companies connect plastic tubing to the spout, running it from tree to tree and eventually directly to a large holding tank where it's stored until ready to be processed. The sap is then taken to the "sugarhouse," where it's boiled until evaporated to the desired degree. Quite simply, maple syrup is sap that has been boiled until much of the water has evaporated and the sap is thick and syrupy. At the beginning of the sugar season, when the sap is concentrated, it only takes about 20 gallons of it to make a gallon of syrup, whereas toward the end of the season it may take up to 50 gallons of sap. Maple sugar, which is about twice as sweet as granulated white sugar, is the result of continuing to boil the sap until the liquid has almost entirely evaporated. In between those two stages at least two other products are made: maple honey (thicker than syrup) and maple cream or butter (thick and spreadable). Maple syrup is graded according to color and flavor. Generally, U.S. grades are: Fancy or Grade aa, a light amber colored syrup with a mild flavor; Grade A is medium amber and mellow-flavored; Grade B is dark amber and hearty flavored; and Grade C is very dark with a robust, molasseslike flavor. Since the processing of maple syrup is labor-intensive, pure maple syrup is quite expensive. A less costly product labeled maple-flavored syrup is a combination of less expensive syrup (such as corn syrup) and a small amount of pure maple syrup. Pancake syrups are usually nothing more than corn syrup flavored with artificial maple extract. Pure maple syrup should be refrigerated after opening. Warm to room temperature before serving.
Maple Syrup
a reddish-brown, viscous liquid with a sweet distinctive flavor, made by reducing the sap of the North American maple tree.
Maréchale, à la
small cuts of meat and poultry which are breaded and fried in butter. Green asparagus tips and truffles are usual in the garnish.
Maraschino
a sweet liqueur made from cherries. Also, red cherries in maraschino syrup, which are used in mixed drinks and with desserts, such as fruit salad and as a garnish on drinks.
maraschino cherry
This specially treated fruit can be made from any variety of cherry, though the royal ann is most often used. The cherries are pitted and then macerated in a flavored sugar syrup (usually almond flavor for red cherries, mint for green). At one time they were traditionally flavored with maraschino liqueur, though such an extravagance is now rare. The cherries are then dyed red or green. The federal government has now banned the use of the harmful dyes that were used until recently. Maraschino cherries can be purchased with or without stems. They're used as a garnish for desserts and cocktails, as well as in baked goods and fruit salads.
maraschino liqueur
A bittersweet, cherry-flavored Italian liqueur made from wild marasca cherries (and their crushed pits) grown in the area of Trieste.
Marbled
a term for meat streaked with fat. When cooked, marbled meat is juicy and exceptionally tender, so this is a mark of a high-quality piece, especially sought after in steaks and beef roasts.
marbling
Flecks or thin streaks of fat that run throughout a piece of meat, enhancing its flavor, tenderness and juiciness. Very lean cuts of meat are sometimes artificially marbled (see lard v. ).
Marc
eau-de-vie, a spirit distilled from the residue of grapes or other fruit after wine has been pressed and strained. Calvados is the marc made of apples.
marchands de vin
A French sauce (the name of which means "wine merchants") made from a heavily reduced mixture of full-bodied red wine, chopped shallots, cracked pepper and glace de viande. At the last minute, butter, lemon juice and minced parsley are whisked into the reduction. Marchands de vin, which is sometimes chilled until firm, is a popular accompaniment for grilled or roasted meats.
Marengo, à la
A veal or chicken dish in which the meat is sautéed in olive oil, then braised with tomatoes, onions, olives, garlic, white wine or brandy and seasonings. Sometimes scrambled eggs accompany the dish. It's said to have been created by Napoleon's chef after the 1800 Battle of Marengo.
Margarine
a butter substitute made from animal or vegetable fat and butter flavored.
margarita
A cocktail made with tequila, an orange-flavored liqueur (usually triple sec) and lime juice. The rim of the glass is traditionally dipped in lime juice, then coarse salt. A margarita may be served straight up or on the rocks. It can also be blended with ice into a slushy consistency.
margherite
Italian for "daisies," referring culinarily to narrow flat noodles with one rippled side. See also pasta.
marguery sauce
A sauce made from a reduced mixture of white wine and fish stock blended with egg yolks and butter. The sauce, which was developed by French chef Nicolas Marguery in the late 1800s, is most often served with mild fish, such as sole.
marigold
This bright yellow flower is used culinarily to flavor and add color to salads, soups and other dishes. The petals are sometimes dried, powdered and used as a coloring agent. See also flowers, edible.
Marinade
a seasoned liquid blend, usually acid-based with wine, vinegar, yogurt or lemon juice, or a dry spice rub.
marinate
To soak a food such as meat, fish or vegetables in a seasoned liquid mixture called a marinade. The purpose of marinating is for the food to absorb the flavors of the marinade or, as in the case of a tough cut of meat, to tenderize. Because most marinades contain acid ingredients, the marinating should be done in a glass, ceramic or stainless-steel container never in aluminum. Foods should be covered and refrigerated while they're marinating. When fruits are similarly soaked, the term used is macerate.
Marinate, to
to cover food with a marinade for a specified amount of time before cooking to make it more flavorful, more moist and/or more tender. (Food should be covered and refrigerated while marinating.).
Marinière
to cook shellfish with white wine. Also, a garnish with mussels.
marjolaine
1. A long, rectangular dacquoise made with ground almonds and hazelnuts and layered with chocolate buttercream. 2. The French word for the herb marjoram.
Marjoram
an herb and member of the mint family (Origanum marjorana) native to the Mediterranean, has short oval, pale green leaves, a sweet flavor reminiscent of thyme and oregano and a strong aroma; also known as sweet marjoram.
Marlborough pie
This Massachusetts specialty is a single-crust pie with a custardlike filling of applesauce, eggs, cream and sometimes sherry. Many Massachusetts families serve it as a traditional Thanksgiving dessert.
Marmalade
a citrus jelly that also contains unpeeled slices of citrus fruit.
Marmite
a heavy metal or earthenware pot.
Marmite, Petite
French dish. A rich broth called consommé double, it includes chicken and beef with vegetables and herbs. The words mean small pot.
marron; marron glacé
Marron is the French word for "chestnut." Marrons glacé are chestnuts that have been preserved in a sweet syrup. They can be found in jars or cans in the gourmet section of most supermarkets and are quite expensive. They're eaten as a confection, chopped and used to top desserts such as ice cream and mixed fruit or used to make desserts such as the rich mont blanc.
Marrow
a squash. Also, the inner substance of meat bones, usually shin bones.
marrow beans
Grown chiefly in the East, these are the largest and roundest of the white beans. They're usually found fresh only in the region where they're grown, but are available dried year-round in most supermarkets. Marrow beans are customarily served sauced as a side dish, in the manner of a pasta. See also beans.
marrowbone
A bone, usually from the thigh and upper legs of beef, containing marrow. The long bones are usually cut into 2- to 3-inch lengths.
Marsala
Imported from Sicily and made from local grapes, Marsala is Italy's most famous fortified wine. It has a rich, smoky flavor that can range from sweet to dry. Sweet Marsala is used as a dessert wine, as well as to flavor such desserts as the famous zabaglione. Dry Marsala makes an excellent apéritif. There are also special Marsala blends with added ingredients such as cream, eggs and almonds.
marshmallow
Once created from the sweetened extract of the roots of the marshmallow plant, this sweet is now commercially made from corn syrup, gelatin, gum arabic and flavorings. Light, fluffy marshmallows come packaged in regular size (about 1 1/2 inches in diameter) and miniature (1/2 inch in diameter). They may be white or pastel colors. Marshmallows are used variously to top hot chocolate and dishes such as sweet potatoes. Marshmallow creme is a thick, whipped mixture available in jars. It's used in fudge, as an ice-cream topping and as a filling for cakes and candies.
Marshmallow recipe
martini
Said to have been named after the company of Martini & Rossi (famous for their vermouth), this cocktail is made with gin and vermouth, garnished with either a green olive or a lemon twist. The less vermouth it contains, the "drier" (see dry) it is. A martini may be served straight up or on the rocks. It may also be made with vodka, in which case it's called a vodka martini. A gibson is a martini garnished with a tiny white onion.
marzipan
A sweet, pliable mixture of almond paste, sugar and sometimes unbeaten egg whites. It's often tinted with food coloring and molded into a variety of forms including fruits, animals and holiday shapes. Some fancy commercial marzipan fruit is colored so convincingly that it can almost be mistaken for the real thing. Marzipan is also rolled into thin sheets and used either to cover cakes or to cut into strips to form ribbons, bows and a variety of other shapes. Marzipan is available in most supermarkets, packaged in cans or plastic-wrapped logs.
Marzipan / Marchpane
a combination of almond paste, sugar and egg whites used in making pastry and small fruit shapes for holidays.
Masa
Corn tortilla dough.
masa; masa harina
The Spanish word for "dough," masa is the traditional dough used to make corn tortillas. It's made with sun- or fire-dried corn kernels that have been cooked in limewater (water mixed with calcium oxide). After having been cooked, then soaked in the limewater overnight, the wet corn is ground into masa. Masa harina (literally "dough flour") is flour made from dried masa.
masala
A word used throughout India for a spice blend with myriad variations. It can refer to a simple combination of two or three spices (such as cardamom, coriander and mace) or a complex blend of 10 or more ingredients. The principal masala blend used in India is garam masala, the variations of which are countless, depending on the cook and the dish being seasoned.
Mascarpone
Ultra-rich, soft cheese known best for its role in tiramisu.
mascarpone cheese
Hailing from Italy's Lombardy region, mascarpone is a buttery-rich double-cream to triple-cream cheese made from cow's milk. It's ivory-colored, soft and delicate, and ranges in texture from that of a light clotted cream to that of room-temperature butter. It's versatile enough to be blended with other flavors and is sometimes sold sweetened with fruit. In Italy's Friuli region a favorite blend is mascarpone mixed with anchovies, mustard and spices. But in truth, this delicately flavored cheese needs little embellishment other than being topped with fruit. See also cheese.
Mash
to crush or pound, generally used in connection with cooked root vegetables, such as potatoes and turnips.
matcha
A brilliant green powdered tea served in the Japanese tea ceremony. Matcha, also called hiki-cha, is made from very high quality tea, which is too bitter for most western plates.
Matelote
a rich fish stew flavored with red or white wine and herbs.
matsutake mushroom
This dark brown Japanese wild mushroom has a dense, meaty texture and nutty, fragrant flavor. It's available fresh from late fall to midwinter, usually only in Japanese markets or specialty produce stores. Canned matsutake are also marketed. These mushrooms can be cooked by a variety of methods including braising, grilling, steaming and frying. See also mushroom.
Matzo
a type of thin unleavened bread special to the Passover feast celebrated by the Jews. It resembles a cracker. Also, unleavened dumplings.
matzo ball
Also called a knaidel (pl. knaidlach ), this small, round dumpling is made with matzo meal, eggs, chicken fat and seasonings. Matzo balls are usually cooked and served in chicken soup.
matzo brei
A Jewish dish made with pieces of matzo that have been soaked in hot water, squeezed dry, then dipped in beaten egg and fried like french toast. Matzo brei is typically served with cinnamon-sugar, maple syrup or honey.
matzo meal
Ground matzo, generally available in two textures fine and medium. Matzo meal is used in a variety of foods including gefilte fish, matzo balls and pancakes. It's also used to thicken soups and for breading foods to be fried. Matzo meal is available in Jewish markets and most supermarkets.
matzo; matzoh
A thin, brittle, unleavened bread traditionally eaten during the Jewish Passover holiday. Tradition states that matzo is made only with water and flour but some modern-day versions include flavorings like onion. Matzo can be found in Jewish markets as well as most supermarkets. See also matzo meal.
May apple
Though poisonous when green, the yellow, egg-shaped May apple can be safely eaten after ripening. This member of the barberry family is about the size of a large cherry. It's lightly sweet and acidic and makes very good preserves. The May apple is found in the East but is rarely available in markets. See also apple.
May wine
A German white-wine punch flavored with woodruff. Also called Maibowle, May wine is sold bottled and can be found in some gourmet liquor and wine stores.
Mayonnaise
a cold, thick, creamy sauce consisting of oil and vinegar emulsified with egg yolks; used as a spread or base for a salad dressing or dip.
McIntosh apple
Discovered in the late 1700s by Canadian John McIntosh, this medium-crisp, tart-sweet apple has a bright red skin that is sometimes tinged with green. It's available from late September through March. Though the McIntosh is considered an all-purpose apple, it doesn't hold up well when subjected to lengthy cooking. See also apple.
Mead
an alcoholic drink of fermented honey and water.
meal
1. The coarsely ground seeds of any edible grain such as oats or corn. 2. Any dry, ground substance such as bone or dried fish meal.
mealy
1. Having a dry or powdery texture that resembles meal. 2. A term used to describe the texture of a baked potato as slightly dry and almost crumbly.
measuring cups
Containers that come in graduated sizes, used to measure amounts of food. Dry measuring cups come in nested sets that can include 2-cup, 1-cup, 1/2-cup, 1/3-cup, 1/4-cup and 1/8-cup (2-tablespoon) sizes. The dry ingredient can either be stirred first (as with flour and confectioners' sugar) or simply spooned lightly into the cup, then leveled off with the straight edge of a knife. Brown sugar and shortening should be packed tightly into the cup before being leveled off. For foods such as coconut, nuts and chocolate chips, the cups should be filled, then leveled off with your fingers. Liquid measuring cups range in size from 1 to 4 cups. To use, simply pour in liquid and read measurement at eye level. See also metric system.
Measuring cups, dry
vessels, usually made of plastic or metal, with a handle and a rim that is level with the top measurement specified; used to measure the volume of dry substances and are generally available in a set of 1/4, 1/3, 1/2, and 1-cup capacities; metric measures are also available.
Measuring cups, liquid
vessels, usually made of glass, plastic or metal, with a handle and a spout that is above the top line of measurement; specifically used to measure the volume of a liquid and are generally available in 1, 2, and 4-cup to 1-gallon capacities; metric measures are also available; also know as glass cup measures.
Meat
1. The flesh (muscles, fat and related tissues) of animals used for food. 2. The edible part of nuts.
meat tenderizers
Hanging and aging is how many meat processors tenderize meat, but the home cook can easily do so by simple mechanical or chemical methods. Tenderizing meat mechanically is accomplished by breaking down the meat's tough fibers through pounding. Meat pounders (also called meat bats, mallets and tenderizers ) come in metal or wood and in a plethora of sizes and shapes. They can be large or small, have horizontal or vertical handles and be round-, square- or mallet-shaped. Some have smooth surfaces while others are ridged. Tenderizing meat chemically refers to softening the meat fibers by long, slow cooking, by marinating it in an acid-based marinade, or by using a commercial meat tenderizer. Most forms of the latter are a white powder, composed mostly of a papaya extract called papain, an enzyme that breaks down tough meat fibers. The use of this enzyme is nothing new South American cooks have been using papaya juice to tenderize meat for ages. Powdered meat tenderizer is available at most supermarkets. Most brands contain salt, sugar (in the form of dextrose) and the anticaking agent calcium stearate.
meat thermometer
Cooks use this tool to read the temperature of meat in order to ascertain when it has reached the desired degree of doneness. The dials on meat thermometers not only indicate the temperature, but some also have a scale indicating at what degree each type of meat (beef, lamb, etc.) is done. A thermometer can be inserted at the beginning of the cooking time and left in throughout the duration. There are also instant thermometers that take the reading in just a few seconds; these are inserted into the meat toward the end of the cooking time. Meat thermometers come with 1- or 2-inch dials, usually measuring from 0° (sometimes 100°) to 220°F. Look for those with thin probes, which make smaller holes in the meat and therefore allow less juices to escape. Always insert a meat thermometer as near to the center of the meat as possible, avoiding bone or gristle areas. See also candy thermometer; freezer/refrigerator thermometer; oven thermometer.
Medallion
a small, coin-shaped slice of meat or fish.
Melba sauce
Created by the famous French chef Auguste Escoffier for Australian opera singer Dame Nellie Melba, this sauce is a combination of pureed and strained fresh raspberries, red currant jelly, sugar and cornstarch. It's classically used to adorn the dessert peach melba but can also top ice cream, fruit, pound cakes and puddings.
Melba Toast
thin slices of bread baked slowly until crisp. Named for the coloratura soprano, Dame Nellie Melba, who was the toast of international society early in 21st century.
Melon
a member of the gourd family Cucurbitaceae; grown on vines worldwide, these fruits generally have a thick hard rind, many seeds and a sweet juicy flesh; there are two principal types: muskmelons and watermelons.
melon baller
A small, bowl-shaped tool used to cut round- or oval-shaped pieces of melon. The best melon ballers are rigidly constructed with wood or metal handles and sharp-edged, stainless-steel bowls, which come in several sizes, from about 1/4 inch to 1 inch.
Melt
to liquefy by heat.
menudo
Long touted as a hangover cure, menudo is particularly popular in Mexico on New Year's morning. It's a hearty, spicy soup made with tripe,
mer
French for "sea." Fruits de mer means "fruits of the sea," referring to a fish combination.
Meringue
a mixture of egg whites beaten with sugar and baked into cookies or used as a pie topping. The addition of sugar to a meringue is critical; poured in too quickly, the meringue will fall and will not be usable.
Meritage
A wine term (a compound of the words "merit" and "heritage") instituted in 1989 as a certification mark registered with the U.S. Department of Trademarks and Patents. It was coined by a group of vintners who sought to establish standards of identification for a category of American blended wines made with traditional bordeaux grape varieties. The Meritage Association was formed to help identify quality American wine blends that, because they're not made with at least 75 percent of a single variety, can't use the variety name on the label. This forced many producers of excellent wines to either use generic names (like claret or Red Table Wine) or proprietary names (like the Joseph Phelps Vineyards Insignia ) practices that caused great confusion in the marketplace. To be designated as Meritage, a wine must meet the following standards: 1. It must be a blend of two or more Bordeaux grape varieties for red wines these are Cabernet Franc, cabernet sauvignon, Carmenere, Gros Verdot, Malbec, merlot, Petite Verdot and St. Macaire, and for whites they're sauvignon blanc, muscadet and Sémillon (no more than 90 percent of any single variety may go into a Meritage wine); 2. It must be the winery's best wine of its type; 3. It must be produced and bottled by a U.S. winery from grapes that carry a U.S. appellation; and 4. Its production is limited to a maximum 25,000 cases per vintage. Wineries that are approved for the Meritage designation may use it in various ways on the label. They may simply use the word Meritage alone, or Meritage in conjunction with their own proprietary name (as with Cardinale from Kendall-Jackson Vineyards) or use only their proprietary name. At this writing the Meritage Association is petitioning the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (batf) for approval of Meritage as a class and type of wine.
Merlot
A red-wine grape widely grown in France's Pomerol and Saint-Émilion districts of bordeaux and, to a lesser extent, in California and the Pacific Northwest. The wine it produces is similar in flavor to cabernet sauvignon, but tends to be softer and more mellow. It also matures sooner than Cabernet. Though the Merlot grape has been principally used for blending in the United States, it's now beginning to be appreciated on its own. The French have long known its value as is indicated by the great Château Petrus of Pomerol, which is often 100 percent Merlot.
mescal
Called "the nectar of the (Aztec) gods" by Cortez, mescal is a liquor distilled from agave. It has a bitter-almond flavor and is often sold with an agave worm in the bottle.
mesclun
Found in specialty produce markets and many supermarkets, mesclun (also called salad mix and gourmet salad mix ) is simply a potpourri of young, small salad greens. The mix varies depending on the source, but among those greens commonly included are arugula, dandelion, frisée, mizuma, oak leaf, mâche, radicchio and sorrel. Choose mesclun with crisp leaves and no sign of wilting. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 5 days. Wash and blot dry just before using.
mesquite
A low-slung hardwood tree that grows wild throughout the southwestern United States and northern Mexico. Used in barbecuing and smoking foods, mesquite wood gives off a slightly sweet smoke.
Metaxa
A sweet, dark Greek brandy.
metric system
A system of weights and measures that's used throughout much of the world. The basic units are the gram for weight and the meter for length. When calculating conversions, the same figure (0.236) is used whether converting to or from metric. The only difference is that, when converting to metric (as from cups to liters), you multiply the number of cups by 0.236 to get the equivalent in liters. When converting from metric (as from liters to cups), you divide the liters by 0.236 to get the cup equivalency.
Mettwurst
Also called Schmierwurst because it's soft enough to smear or spread, this German sausage is bright red, fatty and seasoned with coriander and white pepper. Though it's uncooked, mettwurst is cured, smoked and ready to eat. It's usually spread on bread or crackers. See also sausage.
Meuniére
Literally "miller's wife" in French, this cooking technique (used primarily for fish) involves a light coating of flour before sauteing in butter or oil.
Meunière
French for literally, in the style of the millers wife, dusted with flour and sautéed in butter.
Mexican chocolate
Flavored with cinnamon, almonds and vanilla, this sweet chocolate is available in Mexican markets and some supermarkets. Mexican chocolate has a much grainier texture than other chocolates. It's used in the preparation of a Mexican hot chocolate drink and certain Mexican specialties such as mole poblano (see mole), a chile-almond sauce usually served with fowl. One ounce semisweet chocolate, 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon and 1 drop almond extract can be substituted for 1 ounce Mexican chocolate.
Mexican Corn Truffle
A nickname for Huitlacoche (also spelled cuitlacoche) a fungus which grows naturally on ears of corn (Ustilago maydis). The fungus is harvested and treated as a delicacy. The earthy and somewhat smoky fungus is used to flavor quesadillas, tamales, soups and other specialty dishes.
Mexican wedding cakes
A buttery, melt-in-your-mouth cookie that's usually ball-shaped and generally contains finely chopped almonds, pecans or hazelnuts. It's usually rolled in confectioners' sugar while still hot, then again after the cookie has cooled. Many countries have their own rendition of this rich cookie. Two versions are Russian tea cakes and Spain's polvorones.
meze
The Greek word for hors D'oeuvre or appetizer.
mezzaluna
Also called a crescent cutter, the mezzaluna ("half-moon") is a curved steel chopping blade with a vertical wooden handle at each end. It's used to mince or chop food by rocking the blade from side to side on a cutting board.
Microwave Cooking
a heating method that uses radiation generated by a special oven to penetrate the food; the raidiation agitates water molecules in the food, creating friction and heat; this energy then spreads throughout the food by conducting (and by convection in liquids).
Microwave Oven
a specially constructed and wired oven that cooks with microwaves, a form of electromagnetic radiation used in radar and telecommunications. Microwave ovens tenderize foods more rapidly than conventional cooking instruments.
Midori liqueur
A Japanese liqueur that has the flavor of honeydew melon.
Mignonette
coarsely ground white or black pepper.
mignonette; mignonnette
1. A small, coin-shaped piece of meat, usually lamb. Also called noisette or medallion. 2. The term poivre mignonnette more commonly refers to coarsely ground white peppercorns. 3. Historically, a mignonnette was a small cloth sachet filled with peppercorns and cloves, used to flavor soups and stews much in the way a bouquet garni is used today.
milanaise, à la
A French cookery term for pasta tossed with butter and grated cheese and topped with a tomato sauce made with shredded cured meat, pickled tongue, mushrooms and truffles.
Milanese
A term meaning "in the style of Milan," referring to food (usually meat) dipped in beaten egg, then into a bread crumb-Parmesan mixture and fried in butter.
milk
Milk has been used for human consumption for thousands and thousands of years, as proven by cave drawings showing cows being milked. Today cow's milk is still one of the most popular (especially in the United States) animal milks consumed by humans. Around the world, people drink the milk from many other animals including camels, goats, llamas, reindeer, sheep and water buffalo. Most milk packs a nutritional punch and contains protein, calcium, phosphorus, vitamins A and D, lactose (milk sugar) and riboflavin. On the minus side, milk's natural sodium content is quite high. Most milk sold in the United States today is pasteurized, which means the microorganisms that cause diseases (such as salmonella and hepatitis) and spoilage have been destroyed by heating, then quick-cooling, the milk. Pasteurization eliminates the possibility of disease and gives milk a longer shelf life. Most commercial milk products have also been homogenized, meaning that the milk fat globules have been broken down mechanically until they are evenly and imperceptibly distributed throughout the milk. The end result is that the cream does not separate from the milk and the liquid is uniformly smooth. In 1993, the Federal Drug Administration approved supplementing dairy cows with a genetically produced hormone protein known as bovine somatotropin (bst). bst is a naturally occurring growth hormone that's found in all cows. When bioengineered bst is injected into dairy cows, their milk production increases by up to 25 percent. Scientists assert that the composition of milk from bst-injected cows is not altered in any way and has no biological effect on humans, although many opponents are not convinced. There is no mandatory labeling for milk from bst-supplemented cows. However, in some smaller market areas, you may find dairy products voluntarily labeled as "farmer certified to not come from bst-supplemented cows." Milk is available in many varieties. Raw milk, usually only commercially available in health-food stores, has not been pasteurized. Advocates say it's better nutritionally because vitamins and natural enzymes have not been destroyed by heat. The dairies that are certified to sell raw milk have rigid hygiene standards and their herds are inspected regularly. But the milk is still not pasteurized and therefore carries some potential risk of disease. Almost all other pasteurized and homogenized milks are fortified with vitamins A and D. Whole milk is the milk just as it came from the cow and contains about 3 1/2 percent milk fat. Lowfat milk comes in two basic types: 2 percent, meaning 98 percent of the fat has been removed; and 1 percent, which is 99 percent fat-free. A few lowfat milks contain only 1/2 percent milk fat but they're not widely available. Nonfat or skim milk must by law contain less than 1/2 percent milk fat. Both lowfat and nonfat milk are available with milk solids added, in which case the label states "Protein-fortified." Not only does this boost the protein to 10 grams per cup, but it also adds body and richness. Federal law requires that both lowfat and nonfat milk be fortified with 2,000 International Units (iu) of vitamin A per quart. Though vitamin D fortification is optional, 400 iu per quart is usually also added. Buttermilk of times past was the liquid left after butter was churned. Today it is made commercially by adding special bacteria to nonfat or lowfat milk, giving it a slightly thickened texture and tangy flavor. Some manufacturers add flecks of butter to give it an authentic look. Dry or powdered buttermilk is also available (see dry milk). Sweet acidophilus milk (whole, lowfat or nonfat) has had friendly and healthful lactobacillus acidophilus bacteria added to it. It tastes and looks just like regular milk but many scientists believe it has an advantage because the acidophilus culture restores nature's balance to the digestive tract. Low-sodium milk, in which 90 percent of the sodium is replaced by potassium, is a special product available in limited supply for those on sodium-restricted diets. Lactose-reduced lowfat milk is for people suffering from lactose intolerance. The lactose content in this special lowfat milk has been reduced to only 30 percent. Ultrapasteurized milk has been quickly heated to about 300°F, then vacuum-packed. It may be stored without refrigeration for up to 6 months until opened, after which it must be refrigerated. Though the high heat destroys spoilage-causing microorganisms, it also gives a "cooked" flavor to the milk. Chocolate milk is whole milk with sugar and chocolate added to it. Chocolate dairy drink (sometimes labeled simply chocolate drink) is skim milk with the same flavorings added. In either case, if cocoa is used instead of chocolate, the product is labeled "chocolate-flavored drink." There are a variety of dry milk and canned milk products on the market. (See dry milk, evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk). Buying milk: Always check the date on the carton to make sure the milk you're buying is the freshest available. Pull dates (see open dating) are intentionally conservative, and most milk in a market with rapid turnover will keep at least a week after purchase. Storing milk: Refrigerate milk as soon as you get it home from the store. Milk readily absorbs flavors so always close milk cartons or other containers tightly. The storage life of milk is reduced greatly when allowed to sit out at room temperature for 30 minutes or more, as it would if put in a pitcher for serving. Rather than returning such milk to its original carton, cover the pitcher with plastic wrap, refrigerate and use that milk within 2 days. See also soy milk, as well as listings for milk's most widely distributed by-products : butter; cheese; cream; sour cream; yogurt.
milk fat
The fatty particles in milk that are separated out to make cream and subsequently butter. The higher the milk fat content in milk, cream, ice cream, etc., the creamier, richer and more caloric the product.
milk punch
An alcoholic drink made with liquor (typically rum, whiskey or brandy), milk, sugar and sometimes vanilla. The mixture is usually blended with crushed ice and strained into a tall glass.
milk shake
This American original consists of a blended combination of milk, ice cream and flavored syrup, fruit or other flavorings. The drink is quickly made with the aid of a blender and is sometimes enriched with an added egg. See also malted milk.
milk toast
Buttered toast, sometimes sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, over which hot milk is poured. It was once popular fare for children and the ailing.
mille-feuille
French for "a thousand leaves," this classic dessert is made with two large oblong pieces of crisp puff pastry spread with whipped cream, custard, jam or fruit puree. The pastries are stacked and topped with another pastry layer, which is generally dusted with confectioners' sugar. A serrated knife is used to cut the dessert into individual servings. Savory mille-feuille can be filled with cheese and served as an appetizer.
Mille-Feuilles
literally, a thousand leaves, this is the flaky pastry the Middle East introduced into European cuisine, layered with cream, and topped with jam and icing.
millet
Though America cultivates this cereal grass almost exclusively for fodder and bird seed, millet is a staple for almost 1/3 of the world's population, particularly in disadvantaged regions of Asia and Africa. There are many varieties of millet, most of which are rich in protein. Millet has a bland flavor that lends itself well as a background to other seasonings. It's prepared like rice by boiling it in water and is used to make hot cereal and dishes like pilaf. Ground millet is used as a flour to make puddings, breads and cakes. Millet can be found in Asian markets and health-food stores.
Milt
the reproductive gland of a male fish, also known as soft roe.
Mimosa
a garnish of grated hard-boiled egg yolks, named for the tree flower that is a spry of tint yellow fluffy balls.
Mince
to cut or chop food into very small pieces; smaller than chopped.
Mincemeat
a preserve of chopped apples, suet, dried fruits, candied peel, sugar, spices and brandy or rum. It is matured for a month or more and used in holiday pies and in some recipes for fruitcake.
mineral water
Water containing various minerals and sometimes gases, taken from wells or natural springs. Mineral water is often effervescent and was once drunk almost exclusively for medicinal purposes. It's now commonly used as a refreshing beverage, either alone or mixed with flavoring.
Minestra
Italian; a thick soup of meat and vegetables.
Minestrone
a minestra with pasta.
Mint
herb used in Middle Eastern and Indian cooking. In the West, commonly used to make tea as well as a sauce served with lamb roasts.
mint julep
One of Kentucky's claims to fame, the mint julep is an alcoholic drink made with fresh mint (sometimes muddled with sugar), bourbon and plenty of crushed ice. It's traditionally served in an iced silver or pewter mug at the running of the famous Kentucky Derby. However, it's a refreshing favorite on any hot day.
Minute Steak
a boneless steak cut one quarter inch thick, and criss-crossed with cuts for tenderizing. It is intended to be sautéed in 1 minute. To cook it longer is to toughen it.
mirabelle
1. Grown in Great Britain (where it's called cherry plum ) and parts of Europe, the small, round mirabelle plum ranges in color from golden yellow to red. It's sweet, but not acidic enough to make it very interesting when eaten raw. It does, however, make delicious tarts and preserves. 2. A fine eau de vie of the same name made from the mirabelle plum.
Mirepoix
alt spellings: MirepoisA combination of diced carrots, onions, celery and herbs cooked in butter; used to flavor a wide range of dishes.
mirepoix; mirepois
A mixture of diced carrots, onions, celery and herbs sautéed in butter. Sometimes cured or smoked meat is added to the mix. Mirepoix is used to season sauces, soups and stews, as well as for a bed on which to braise foods, usually meats or fish.
mirin
A low-alcohol, sweet, golden wine made from glutinous rice. Essential to the Japanese cook, mirin adds sweetness and flavor to a variety of dishes, sauces and glazes. It's available in all Japanese markets and the gourmet section of some supermarkets. Mirin is also referred to simply as rice wine. See also rice wine; sake.
Mise en place
A French term referring to having all the ingredients necessary for a dish prepared and ready to combine up to the point of cooking.
miso
Also called bean paste, this Japanese culinary mainstay has the consistency of peanut butter and comes in a wide variety of flavors and colors. This fermented soybean paste has three basic categories barley miso, rice miso and soybean miso all of which are developed by injecting cooked soybeans with a mold (koji ) cultivated in either a barley, rice or soybean base. Additionally, the miso's color, flavor and texture are affected by the amounts of soybeans, koji and salt used. It's further influenced by the length of time it is aged, which can range from 6 months to 3 years. Miso is a basic flavoring in much of Japanese cooking. The lighter-colored versions are used in more delicate soups and sauces, and the darker colored in heavier dishes. There are also low-salt varieties available. Shinshu miso is a golden yellow, all-purpose variety with a mellow flavor and rather high salt content. There are regional favorites such as sendai miso, a fragrant, reddish-brown variety found in northern Japan, and the dark brown hatcho miso, popular in central Japan. Miso is used in sauces, soups, marinades, dips, main dishes, salad dressings and as a table condiment. It's easily digested and extremely nutritious, having rich amounts of B vitamins and protein. Miso can be found in Japanese markets and health-food stores. It should be refrigerated in an airtight container.
misto
The Italian word for "mixed" or "mixture." For example, fritto misto means "mixed fry" and refers to a dish that includes various pieces of meat, fish, vegetables and cheese, all of which are dipped in batter and fried.
Mix
to combine ingredients into a uniform mixture with a stirring motion.
Mixed Grill
a combination of grilled meats, such as chicken, chicken hearts, broiled chicken liver, garnished with onions.
mixer
1. Any of various electric kitchen machines used to beat, mix or whip foods. There are two basic kinds stationary (or stand) and portable (or hand-held). Stationary mixers have more powerful motors and therefore can handle heavier mixing jobs. They also take up more counter space. In addition to the standard beaters, stationary mixers are usually equipped with an assortment of attachments that can include dough hooks, wire whisks and flat, paddle-style beaters. Many have attachments such as citrus juicers, ice crushers, pasta makers, sausage stuffers and meat grinders. Portable mixers, as the name implies, can be used anywhere. Their small size is due in part to a small motor, which also limits these machines to smaller tasks. But size also makes the portable mixer easy to store. See also rotary beater. 2. Beverages such as soda water, cola or fruit juice that are combined with liquor to make a cocktail.
Mizuna
Crisp, feathery salad greens from Japan.
mizutaki
Japanese for "water-simmered," referring to a Japanese dish made in a single pot consisting of chicken and vegetables simmered in water and other seasonings. The dish is served from the pot at the table along with various condiments such as ponzu sauce, radishes, green onions, ginger and lemon. See also chirinabe; nabemono.
Mocha
a rich coffee originally grown in Mocha, Yemen. The beans are almost without bitterness in the best grades. Mocha also describes a combination of chocolate and coffee used to flavor cakes and candies.
mochi; mochiko
A sweet, short-grained, very glutinous rice with a high starch content. Mochi is commonly used to make rice cakes, for which it is pounded in large tubs until it becomes extremely sticky. It is then formed into balls or squares, which can be found in Japanese markets. Mochi is also used in confections and rice dishes. Mochiko is a rice flour made from mochi. See also rice; rice flour.
mock turtle soup
This soup has nothing to do with turtles but is made instead from a calf's head cooked in water. After cooking, most recipes call for the head to be taken out of the broth and cooled, after which the meat is removed and cut into small pieces. Just before serving, the meat is returned to the clear, brownish broth, which is often flavored with wine and various spices, and usually thickened. Mock turtle soup is sometimes garnished with calves' brains.
Mode, à la
literally in the mode. Meats à la mode are braised with vegetables and served with gravy. In the United States, à la mode usually refers to food topped with ice cream.
moisten
This term is often used in baking recipes to instruct that only enough liquid be added to flour and other dry ingredients to make them damp or moist, but not wet.
Mojo sauce
Cubans get their mojo in the form of this ubiquitous table sauce made from olive oil, garlic, lime juice, cumin and other spices, sometimes including chiles.
Molasses
a thick, sweet, brownish-black liquid that is a by-product of sugar-refining; used in breads, cookies and pastries for its distinctive, slightly bitter flavor and dark color.
molcajete y tejolete
The Mexican term for "mortar and pestle" molcajete being the mortar, tejolete the pestle. The black, rough texture of both pieces is a result of the fact that they're made of basalt (volcanic rock). They are used in the traditional manner for grinding spices and herbs and other mixtures. They're also used as serving dishes for preparations such as guacamole in Mexican restaurants.
mold
n. 1. A container, usually distinctively shaped, into which a food is placed in order to take on the shape of that container. Molds can range in size from tiny, individual candy-size molds to large pudding molds. The food (such as butter, chocolate, ice cream, aspic, pâté or a gelatin-based dessert) is poured or packed into the mold and then customarily refrigerated until it becomes firm enough to hold its shape. 2. The finished dish made in such a container. 3. Any of thousands of varieties of fungi that grow on food items such as bread, cheese, fruit and jam. Molds grow best when the food is acidic and the environment is warm, damp and dark, with some air circulation. Mold reproduces from its spores, which are carried through the air until they find the right food and environment to germinate. Most molds are simply nuisances that spoil food but are not harmful. Among the beneficial molds are those purposely nurtured to create wonderful blue cheeses like roquefort and stilton, and that which grows on the rind of camembert, providing its distinctive flavor. mold v. To form food into a distinctive shape either by hand-forming (as with a bread dough) or by pouring (as with aspic) into a decorative mold and chilling or freezing until firm.
Mold, to
to shape food, usually by pouring the liquefied food into a mold. When the liquid is cooled it will retain the shape of the mold.
mole
From the Nahuatl molli, meaning "concoction," mole is a rich, dark, reddish-brown sauce usually served with poultry. There are many variations of this spicy Mexican specialty, usually depending on what's in the cook's kitchen. Generally, mole is a smooth, cooked blend of onion, garlic, several varieties of chiles, ground seeds (such as sesame seeds or pumpkin seeds known as pepitas ) and a small amount of mexican chocolate, its best-known ingredient. (Some Americanized mole recipes use bitter chocolate.) The chocolate contributes richness to the sauce without adding overt sweetness.
Molecular Gastronomy
Molecular gastronomy is a discipline of food science that seeks to investigate, explain and make practical use of the physical and chemical transformations of ingredients that occur while cooking, as well as the social, artistic and technical components of culinary and gastronomic phenomena in general.
Source: Wikipedia
Mongolian grill
This audience-participation cooking is said to have originated during the time of Genghis Khan when his warriors in the field would sit around grills and enjoy cooking their own food. The basic approach is for each diner to dip thin slices of lamb (or other meat) into a ginger-soy sauce marinade before placing them on a hot grill (usually a large hibachi) set on the center of the table. Each individual cooks his or her meat (the Mongolian grill) according to personal preference. The grill is sometimes garnished with chopped scallions, mushrooms or watercress and eaten on plain buns.
Mongolian hot pot; Mongolian firepot
This is a kind of Chinese fondue, also known as Chinese firepot or boiling firepot. A giant communal pot of slowly simmering stock is placed in the center of the table and the participants are provided with a variety of raw, thinly sliced meats (lamb, beef, fish, poultry, etc.) and vegetables. Diners immerse pieces of their food into the simmering stock, cook it to their liking and, if desired, dip the food into one of a selection of condiments. After the food is cooked, the rich broth is consumed by any who have room for it.
monkey bread
1. A sweet yeast bread formed by arranging small clumps of dough (which are usually dipped in melted butter) in 3 or 4 overlapping layers in a pan. The pan can be round, oblong or tube-shape. After baking, the clumps cling together to form a solid loaf. Monkey bread can be sweet (flavored with raisins, nuts, cinnamon and sugar) or savory (often made with grated cheese). 2. A gourdlike fruit of the baobab, a thick-trunked tree native to Africa. The extremely high-starch fruit is generally only eaten by monkeys.
Monosodium Glutamate (MSG)
an amino acid derived from gluten of soybeans. Used in Oriental cooking to improve the flavor of a dish that has not come up to par.
monosodium glutamate; msg
Commonly known as msg, this white crystalline powder is derived from glutamic acid, one of the 22 amino acids. This natural amino acid is found in seaweed, vegetables, cereal gluten and the residue of sugar beets. It was first discovered by Japanese scientists in the 1920s. Japan, where msg is known as aji-no-moto, is still today's largest producer of msg, a popular flavor enhancer in Japanese and Chinese cooking. Even though it has no pronounced flavor of its own, monosodium glutamate has the ability to intensify the flavor of savory foods. Some people have reactions to msg that cause them to suffer from a variety of maladies including dizziness, headache, flushing and burning sensations. msg is found in the spice section of supermarkets either as monosodium glutamate, msg or under brand names such as Ac'cent. Many seasoning mixes also contain msg. Additionally, it's present in many processed foods such as snack foods, frozen entrées, salad dressings and soups. Be aware that many ingredients naturally contain msg, but are not required by the Food and Drug Administration to be labeled as such. These ingredients include hydrolyzed plant protein, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, kombu extract and natural flavoring or seasoning.
monstera
Also called ceriman and Mexican breadfruit, this unique tropical-American fruit looks like a narrow, foot-long pine cone. The thick, green skin has hexagonal scales that individually separate and pop off as the fruit begins to ripen. Inside, the ripe, off-white flesh is formed in segments correlating to the skin's pattern. It's creamy-smooth and resembles a very firm custard. The flavor is sweet-tart and reminiscent of pineapple with touches of banana and mango. If underripe, however, the monstera has an off-taste and an irritant that will inflame both mouth and throat. In the United States, the monstera can be found in California, Florida and a few other locales that have produce markets specializing in exotic fruit. The monstera should be ripened at room temperature until the scales pop off and expose the luscious fruit, which is best plucked out and eaten plain with a spoon or fork.
mont blanc
A classic dessert of sweetened, pureed chestnuts subtly flavored with vanilla. The mixture is riced and mounded into a high, fluffy mountain on a platter. This sweet alp is capped with whipped cream or crème chantilly. Mont Blanc ("white mountain") is a peak in the French Alps near the Italian border.
Monterey Jack cheese
Originated in Monterey, California, thus the name. It is also called California Jack or simply Jack cheese. It is a member of the Cheddar family and is a mild, white cheese aged only three to six weeks. The texture of Monterey Jack cheese depends on the type of milk used. If whole milk is used, the cheese will be semi-soft; if skim milk is used, it will be harder and can be used for grating. It has a mild, somewhat bland flavor. It has good melting properties, making it excellent for sandwiches as well as for cooked dishes. Some versions contain flavorings such as jalapeño pepper, black pepper, garlic, vegetable and dill.
Montmorency cherry
An extremely popular sour cherry and the primary cherry grown to be sold fresh (most sour cherries are used for canning purposes). The skin is a medium red and the extremely juicy flesh a creamy beige. As with most sour cherries, cooking brings out the fresh, tart flavor of the Montmorency. It can be used in cold soups, in entrée sauces or in desserts. See also cherry.
Montmorency, à la
A term meaning "made or served with cherries," applying to various desserts and entrées such as caneton à la Montmorency roast duckling with cherry sauce.
Montrachet cheese
A white chèvre from Burgundy with a soft, moist and creamy texture and a mildly tangy flavor. It's usually sold in logs covered in a gray, salted ash. Montrachet is best when quite young and fresh. See also cheese.
moo shu; moo shoo
A stir-fried Chinese dish containing shredded veal, scallions, tiger lily buds, wood ears and various seasonings. This mixture is scrambled with eggs, rolled in small thin pancakes (called moo shu pancakes or Peking doilies ) and served hot.
Moravian Christmas cookies
A spicy ginger-molasses cookie traditionally served at Christmastime in Moravia, a historic region of the East Czech Republic. The Moravian settlements in the United States particularly in Old Salem, North Carolina continue this tradition by making these cookies ultrathin and cutting them into various festive shapes.
Morel
a small, very tasty mushroom.
Morello cherry; English Morello cherry
Seldom found fresh, this sour cherry with dark red skin and flesh is used in a variety of processed products. The blood-red juice is used in making liqueurs and brandies, and the cherries can be found canned, packed in syrup, dried and in preserves. The sharp, sour taste makes the Morello unsuitable for eating raw but perfect for cooking. See also cherry.
Mornay
white sauce with egg, cream, and cheese added.
Mornay sauce
A Béchamel sauce to which cheese, usually Parmesan and Swiss, has been added. It's sometimes varied by the addition of fish or chicken stock or, for added richness, cream or egg yolks. Mornay sauce is served with eggs, fish, vegetables and chicken.
mortadella
This smoked sausage originated in Bologna, Italy, and is the original from which the slang name "baloney" came. It's made with ground beef, cubes of fat and seasonings. The Italian version, which is not imported because it requires additional cooking steps before the U.S. government will approve it, is air-dried and has a smooth, delicate flavor. Canned, cooked versions are imported from Italy but they do not taste like the original. The American mortadella is basically bologna with cubes of fat and added garlic flavor. The Germans produce an excellent mortadella that contains pistachio nuts. See also sausage.
mortar and pestle
A mortar is a bowl-shaped container and a pestle is a rounded, batlike instrument. As a pair, the mortar and pestle are used for grinding and pulverizing spices, herbs and other foods. The pestle is pressed against the mortar and rotated, grinding the ingredient between them until the desired consistency is obtained. The mortar and pestle are usually made from the same material, generally marble, hardwood, porcelain or stoneware. The Mexican term for mortar and pestle is "molcajete Y tejolete."
morue
The French term for dried salt cod (see cod). See also saltfish.
Moscow mule
Said to have the kick of a mule, this cocktail is made by filling a copper mug (the traditional container) or glass with ice cubes and adding a generous amount of vodka (2 to 3 ounces), a squeeze of lemon or lime juice and topping with ginger beer. A Moscow mule is garnished with a lime wedge and a cucumber stick. The drink was developed in the late 1940s as part of a Smirnoff vodka promotion and has been popular ever since.
mostaccioli
Large, 2 inch-long macaroni tubes "mustaches" cut on the diagonal. Mostaccioli can have either a ridged or plain surface. See also macaroni; pasta.
Mostarda
Mostarda (also called mostarda di frutta) is an Italian condiment made of candied fruit and a mustard flavored syrup. Commercially the essential oil of mustard is employed, which has the advantage of transparency; in home cooking mustard powder heated in white wine may be used.
mother of vinegar
A slimy, gummy substance made up of various bacteria specifically mycoderma aceti that cause fermentation in wine and cider and turn them into vinegar. Known as mère de vinaigre in French and sometimes simply as "mother" in English, its growth is best fostered in a medium-warm environment (60°-85°F). The mother should be transferred to a new mixture or discarded once the liquid has turned to vinegar.
Mouli grater
A French rotary grater that is perfect for grating small amounts of foods like cheese, chocolate and nuts. The hand-held unit consists of two sections with hinged handles. The end of one handle contains a food hopper with a grating cylinder and a crank for rotating the cylinder. The other section has a rounded surface that acts as a clamp, pressing the food to be grated into the grating cylinder. The hinged handles are held in one hand and squeezed so that the food presses against the grating cylinder. Meanwhile, the other hand turns the crank, causing the cylinder to rotate and the food to be grated.
mount, to
A cooking technique whereby small chunks of cold, unsalted butter are whisked into a sauce just before serving to give it flavor, texture and a glossy appearance.
Moussaka
a traditional dish of the Balkan peninsula, and generally known as Greek. There are many variations, but all are layered casseroles of vegetables and ground meat. A good example is a combination of eggplant with tomatoes and lamb.
moussaka; mousaka
Originally from Greece, moussaka is a popular dish throughout most of the Near East. Its basic form consists of sliced eggplant and ground lamb or beef that are layered, then baked. The variations, however, are endless and the dish is often covered with a Béchamel sauce enriched with eggs and/or cheese. Other variations include the addition of onions, artichokes, tomatoes or potatoes.
Mousse
a dish usually based on beaten egg whites and yolks, baked into a savory or a sweet. A mousse can be a puree of meat, poultry, fish or vegetables, served hot or cold. As a dessert it is an extra-light pudding flavored with fruit, lemon or chocolate, and served warm or cold with or without cream.
Mousseline
a sauce with whipped cream added. The name for small molds of poultry, game fish and shellfish and cream, served hot or cold.
Moutarde
"Mustard" in France.
mozzarella cheese
Hailing from Italy, mozzarella is a mild, white fresh cheese that's made by the special pasta filata process, whereby the curd is dipped into hot whey, then stretched and kneaded to the desired consistency. At one time, mozzarella was made only from the milk of water buffaloes. Today, however, the majority of it is made with cow's milk. Mozzarella comes in two basic styles. Most regular mozzarella, which can be found in lowfat and nonfat forms in supermarkets, is factory produced. It has a semisoft, elastic texture and is drier and not as delicately flavored as its fresher counterpart. This style of mozzarella is best used for cooking and is popular for pizza because of its excellent melting qualities. Fresh mozzarella, which is usually packaged in whey or water, is often labeled "Italian style." It's generally made from whole milk and has a much softer texture and a sweet, delicate flavor. Mozzarella di bufala (also called simply buffalo mozzarella ) is the most prized of the fresh mozzarellas. Most buffalo mozzarella available in the United States is made from a combination of water buffalo milk and cow's milk. Two popular forms of fresh mozzarella are boconccini, which are little (about 1 inch in diameter) balls that are commonly marinated in olive oil and sometimes herbs, and a smoked version called mozzarella affumicata. There's also the unique manteca, in which the mozzarella is molded around a lump of butter. Fresh mozzarella can be found in Italian markets, cheese shops and some supermarkets. It's excellent simply spread on bread with salt, pepper and a little olive oil. See also cheese.
muddle
To mash or crush ingredients with a spoon or a muddler (a rod with a flattened end). Usually identified with the preparation of mixed drinks, such as when mint leaves and sugar are muddled together for a mint julep.
Muddler
a thick rod used to crush and mix fruit and sugar in drinks. Also, used to free the bubbles in champagne.
Muenster cheese; Munster cheese
This widely imitated cheese varies greatly, from that of the original produced in France's Alsace region to versions made in the United States. The highly prized European Muensters have red or orange rinds and a smooth, yellow interior with small holes. The texture is semisoft and the flavor ranges from mild when young to quite assertive when aged. The American versions have an orange rind, a lighter yellow interior and a decidedly bland flavor that in no way resembles the more robust European originals. See also cheese.
muesli
Developed as a health food by Swiss nutritionist Dr. Bircher-Benner near the end of the 19th century, muesli has since become a popular breakfast cereal. The German word muesli means "mixture," and this one can include raw or toasted cereals (oats, wheat, millet, barley, etc.), dried fruits (such as raisins, apricots and apples), nuts, bran, wheat germ, sugar and dried-milk solids. It is usually eaten with milk, yogurt or fruit juice. There are a number of commercial variations available in most supermarkets, usually labeled granola.
Muffin
a drop batter baked in individual pans and served as a quick bread.
muffuletta; muffaletta
A specialty of New Orleans, this hero-style sandwich originated in 1906 at the Central Grocery, which many think still makes the best muffuletta in Louisiana. The sandwich consists of a round loaf of crusty Italian bread, split and filled with layers of salami and cured meat topped with "olive salad," a chopped mixture of green, unstuffed olives, pimientos, celery, garlic, cocktail onions, capers, oregano, parsley, olive oil, red-wine vinegar, salt and pepper. The olive salad is what sets the muffuletta apart from any other sandwich of its ilk.
mulato chile
This long (4- to 5-inch) dark brown chile is a type of dried poblano. It has a light fruity nuance and a much more pronounced smoky character than its relative, the ancho. The mulato is essential for making mole. See also chile.
mulberry
There are three principal varieties of the mulberry black, red and white. The black (really purplish-black) variety is commonly found in Europe, the red in the eastern and southern United States and the white in Asia. Mulberries look somewhat like blackberries in size and shape. When fully ripe, their flavor is sweet-sour but somewhat bland. Unripe berries are inedibly sour. Mulberries are not commercially grown in the United States but grow wild from Massachusetts to the Gulf states and as far west as Nebraska. They can be eaten raw or used for jams, jellies, desserts and mulberry wine.
mull
To flavor a beverage by heating it with various ingredients such as herbs, spices, fruit and sugar. The beverages most often infused in this fashion are wine, cider and beer. See also mulled wine.
Mulled Wine
Wine, usually red, that is heated, but not boiled, with sugar and spices, such as cinnamon stick, ground mace and whole cloves.
mullet
The appellation "mullet" is used to identify many fish that are not mullets at all such as the highly prized red mullet, which actually belongs to the goatfish family. True mullets belong to the gray mullet family and are commercially available in the United States as striped mullet and silver mullet. These silver-gray, moderate- to high-fat fish range in size from 1/2 to 4 pounds. They have firm white flesh with a mild, nutlike flavor. Mullet can be found year-round in most South Atlantic and Gulf states, less frequently elsewhere. They may be fried, baked, broiled or poached. See also fish.
mulligan stew
Said to have originated in hobo camps during the early 1900s, mulligan stew is a sort of catch-all dish of whatever is available. It usually contains meat, potatoes and vegetables in just about any combination. The name indicates that its origins might come from irish stew, but it's also often compared to Kentucky burgoo. The cook at a hobo camp responsible for putting this tasty concoction together was called a "mulligan-mixer."
Mulligatawny
English version of chicken or lamb soup served with rice. The original is Indian.
mulligatawny soup
The name derives from the Tamil, a people inhabiting southern India and the surrounding area, and means "pepper water." This soup is based on a rich meat or vegetable broth highly seasoned with curry and other spices. It usually contains bits of chicken (sometimes other meats), and can also include rice, eggs, coconut shreds and even cream.
mung bean
A small dried bean with yellow flesh and a skin that is normally green but sometimes yellow or black. It's most commonly used to grow bean sprouts. Mung beans are widely used in both China and India. They need no presoaking and when cooked have a tender texture and slightly sweet flavor. Dried mung beans are ground into flour, which is used to make noodles in China and a variety of dishes in India. See also beans.
Muscadet
The French produce this light, dry white wine from Muscadet grapes grown in the Loire Valley. Although not as great as other French whites (like burgundy and chablis), Muscadet is quite good, particularly in light of its reasonable price. It should be served chilled and goes nicely with fish and poultry.
Muscadine grape
Found in the southeastern United States, this thick-skinned purple grape has a strong, musky flavor. It's a native American grape grown mainly to be eaten although it's also used to make a limited amount of wine. In fact, the muscadine was one of the first varieties from which wine was made in America. One of its varieties the scuppernong is used to make a sweet wine that is still popular in the South. See also grape.
Muscat grape
Any of several varieties of white or black grapes. The characteristic trait of the muscat is its sweet, musky flavor. Muscat grapes are grown around the world in temperate climates such as Italy, France, Greece, Spain and California. In addition to being eaten out of hand and made into raisins, the Muscat grape is used to make a variety of fragrant wines.
muscatel wine
A rich, sweet dessert wine created from the muscat grape. It's made from both the black and white varieties, so its color can range from golden to amber to pale amber-red. Muscatel's flavor typifies the characteristically musty flavor of the muscat grape.
Mush
a cooked cereal made by boiling cornmeal. Best served with melting butter and a little sweet syrup.
mushimono
Japanese term referring to steamed foods.
mushroom
Early Greeks and Romans are thought to be among the first cultivators of mushrooms, using them in a wide array of dishes. Today there are literally thousands of varieties of this fleshy fungus. Sizes and shapes vary tremendously and colors can range from white to black with a full gamut of colors in between. The cap's texture can be smooth, pitted, honeycombed or ruffled and flavors range from bland to rich, nutty and earthy. The cultivated mushroom is what's commonly found in most U.S. supermarkets today. However, those that more readily excite the palate are the more exotic wild mushrooms such as cèpe, chanterelle, enoki, morel, puffball, shiitake and wood ear. Because so many wild mushrooms are poisonous, it's vitally important to know which species are edible and which are not. Extreme caution should be taken when picking them yourself. The readily available cultivated white mushroom has a mild, earthy flavor. The cap ranges in size from 1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and in color from white to pale tan. Those labeled "button mushrooms" are simply the small youngsters of the cultivated variety. These common mushrooms are available year-round but are at their peak in fall and winter. They're sold in bulk and in 8-ounce packages. Look for those that are firm and evenly colored with tightly closed caps. If all the gills are showing, the mushrooms are past their prime. Avoid specimens that are broken, damaged or have soft spots or a dark-tinged surface. If the mushrooms are to be cooked whole, select those of equal size so they will cook evenly. Fresh mushrooms should be stored with cool air circulating around them. Therefore, they should be placed on a tray in a single layer, covered with a damp paper towel and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Before use, they should be wiped with a damp paper towel or, if necessary, rinsed with cold water and dried thoroughly. Mushrooms should never be soaked because they absorb water and will become mushy. Trim the stem ends and prepare according to directions. Canned mushrooms are available in several forms including whole, chopped, sliced and caps only. Frozen or freeze-dried mushrooms are also available. Dried mushrooms are available either whole or in slices, bits or pieces. They should be stored in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months. Mushrooms are one of nature's most versatile foods and can be used in hundreds of ways and cooked in almost any way imaginable. See also black trumpet; cremino; hen-of-the-woods; matsutake; nameko; oyster mushroom; pom pom; portobello; straw mushroom; trompette de la mort.
Mushroon
any of many species of cultivated or wild fleshy fungus, usually consisting of a stem, a cap (which may have gills) and mycelium; available fresh or dried and eaten raw, reconstituted or cooked.
muskmelon
This juicy fruit is one of two broad classes of melons, the other being watermelon. It's been grown by the Chinese, Greeks, Romans and Egyptians for thousands of years. The two principal varieties of muskmelon are those with netted skins (including cantaloupe, persian melon and santa claus or Christmas melon), and those with smooth skins (such as casaba, crenshaw and honeydew melon). The skin can range in color from creamy white to celadon green to jade green, with many variations and shades in between. Flesh colors vary similarly and include beautiful salmon, golden, lime-green and orange shades. All muskmelons have seeds in a fibrous center hollow. Although muskmelons of one variety or another are available throughout most of the year, they're most abundant from late summer to early fall. When ripe, most muskmelons are slightly soft at the blossom end and give off a sweet, perfumy odor. Those picked before they're mature will never reach their delectably sweet and flavorful potential. Unripe melons should be stored at room temperature until they ripen, then kept in a cool place until ready to use. As with all melons, these should be halved and seeded before using. See also melon; spanish melon; winter melon.
Mussels
edible mollusks found under seaweed clinging to the rocks by the seashore. Like other shellfish, mussels are subject to a condition called red tide, which occurs in some spring seasons and renders the shellfish poisonous. Therefore, before harvesting mussels, check with the local authorities to be sure they are safe.
must
The freshly pressed juice of grapes or other fruit before fermentation occurs. Must can include pulp, skins and seeds.
Mustard
any of several species of a plant that is a member of the cabbage family; the seeds are used for a spice and the leaves are eaten as vegetables.
mustard greens
The peppery leaves of the mustard plant are a popular soul food ingredient, ranking second only to collard greens. They're both members of the same family along with broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale and kohlrabi. The leaves are a rich, dark green and have a pungent mustard flavor. Though they can be found year-round in some locales, fresh mustard greens are most abundant from December through early March. They're also available frozen and canned. When choosing fresh greens, look for crisp young leaves with a rich green color. Reject those with yellow, flabby or pitted leaves or thick, fibrous stems. Refrigerate greens, tightly sealed in a plastic bag, for up to a week. Wash them just before using. Mustard greens can be steamed, sautéed or simmered. They are usually served as a side dish, often flavored with onion, garlic, smoked or cured meats. Mustard greens, a cruciferous vegetable, are an excellent source of vitamins A and C, thiamine and riboflavin. See also mustard; mustard oil; mustard, prepared.
mustard oil
An extremely hot, pungent oil expressed from mustard seeds (see mustard). Mustard oil should be stored in the refrigerator and will keep for up to about 6 months. It can be used (sparingly because of the heat) in stir-frys, salad dressings and marinades. See also fats and oils.
mustard, prepared
Prepared mustard is generally made from powdered mustard combined with seasonings and a liquid such as water, vinegar, wine, beer or must. American-style prepared mustard is a mild mixture made from the less-pungent white seed flavored with sugar, vinegar and turmeric (which makes it yellow). European and Chinese prepared mustards are made from brown seeds and are much zestier and more flavorful. The French are famous for their tangy dijon mustard, made with brown or black seeds. The German prepared mustards can range from very hot to sweet and mild. Chinese mustards are usually the hottest and most pungent of the prepared mustards. A multitude of domestic and imported prepared mustards are readily available in supermarkets. Unopened, prepared mustard can be stored in a cool, dark place for about 2 years; once opened, it should be refrigerated. See also creole mustard; english mustard; mustard; mustard greens; mustard oil.
mustard; mustard seed; powdered mustard
Any of several species of plant grown for its acrid seeds and leaves, which are called mustard greens. The mustard plant belongs to the same family as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, collards, kale and kohlrabi. Down through the centuries it has been used for culinary as well as medicinal purposes; the most notable example of the latter is mustard's purported efficacy as a curative for the common cold. The name is said to come from a Roman mixture of crushed mustard seed and must (unfermented grape juice), which was called mustum ardens ("burning wine"). Likewise, the French word moutarde ("mustard") comes from a contraction of their moust ("must") and a form of ardent ("hot" or "fiery"). There are two major types of mustard seed white (or yellow ) and brown (or Asian ). A third species, the black mustard seed, has been replaced for most purposes by the brown species because the latter can be grown and harvested more economically. White mustard seeds are much larger than the brown variety but a lot less pungent. They're the main ingredient in American-style mustards. White and brown seeds are blended to make english mustard. Brown mustard seeds are used for pickling and as a seasoning, and are the main ingredient in European and Chinese mustards. Mustard seeds are sold whole, ground into powder or processed further into prepared mustard. Powdered mustard is simply finely ground mustard seed. Mustard seeds can be stored for up to a year in a dry, dark place and powdered mustard for about 6 months. Whole seeds are used for pickling, flavoring cooked meats and vegetables and as a source for
Mutton
meat of the mature sheep, that is 1 year to 18 months old. The meat is a darker color than lamb, and strongly flavored.
Naan
Tandoor-baked, unleavened, Indian bread.
naan; nan
An East Indian, white-flour flat bread that is lightly leavened by a natural yeast starter developed from airborne yeasts. Naan is traditionally baked in a tandoor oven. A flattened round of dough is placed on a cloth puff that is used to slap the bread directly onto the side of the special high-heat oven. In less than 60 seconds, the bread puffs slightly, browns on the side touching the oven wall and takes on a light smoky flavor. The bread is speared with a skewer and removed from the oven wall to be served hot.
nabemono
This Japanese term translates to "things-in-a-pot" and refers to a category of communal one-pot meals that are popular in Japan, particularly during cold weather. Ingredients are prepared in bite-size portions in advance, then cooked at the table in broth or oil. With some dishes, ingredients are added one at a time and when the dish is ready it's served family style. With other dishes, participants actually cook their own food in the hot liquid or oil, much like a fondue Bourguignonne. Various condiments and sauces are served to flavor the just-cooked foods. See also chirinabe; mizutaki.
nacho
A crisp tortilla chip topped with melted cheese (usually cheddar) and chopped chiles, usually served as an appetizer or snack. Nachos sometimes appear on menus as "Mexican pizza," in which case they generally have additional toppings such as cooked, ground chorizo, onions and sometimes olives.
Nachos
a Mexican appetizer made with chilies and melted cheese served on a bed of tortillas.
Nage
This culinary buzzword usually indicates a bouillon with (among other things) white wine, shallots and herbs.
nam pla
Popular in Thailand, nam pla is a salty, fermented fish sauce with an extremely pungent odor. It's used as a condiment, sauce and seasoning ingredient. Nam pla is popular throughout Southeast Asia and is known as nuoc nam in Vietnam and as shottsuru in Japan. Ancient Romans used a nam pla counterpart called garum.
nam prik
Thailand's counterpart to sambal, nam prik is a general term for various condiments and sauces used to accompany a variety of foods including fish, rice and vegetables. The ingredients used vary from region to region and can include chiles, garlic, dried fish, trasi, tamarind concentrate, fruit (such as green mango) and nuts.
nameko
A small Japanese mushroom that ranges in color from orange to amber to gold. The nameko has a soft almost gelatinous texture and a rich, earthy aroma and flavor. It's highly regarded and used primarily in Japanese soups and one-pot dishes. Though nameko mushrooms are seldom found fresh in the United States, they're available canned in Asian markets. The nameko is sometimes also called cinnamon cap. See also mushroom.
nap
To coat food lightly with a sauce so that it completely covers the food with a thin, even layer.
Napoleon
A delectable dessert made with crisp layers of puff pastry spread with crème Pâtissière and either glazed with a thin icing or dusted with confectioners' sugar. Napoleons are usually made in small rectangular shapes just large enough for an individual serving.
Napoleon cherry
Another name for the royal ann cherry.
nasi goreng
The Indonesian term for "fried rice," of which there are hundreds of versions throughout Indonesia, Malaysia and the surrounding areas. The rice is cooked with various ingredients including fish, meat, chicken, eggs, onions, chiles, garlic, cucumber, peanuts and a wide array of seasonings. If noodles are substituted for rice, the dish is called bahmi goreng.
Nasturtium
an edible flower. The young leaves and blooms are used in salads and sandwiches, and as garnishes for cold summer soups; the buds may be picked and pickled and used as substitute for capers.
natto
These steamed, fermented and mashed soybeans have a glutinous texture and strong cheeselike flavor. Natto is particularly popular in Japan, where it's used as a flavoring and table condiment and is greatly favored served over rice for breakfast. It's often mixed with other ingredients such as mustard, soy sauce and chives.
Navarin
a French lamb stew.
navel orange
Grown in California, Arizona and Florida, the navel is an excellent eating orange. Its name originates from the fact that the blossom end resembles the human navel. This large fruit has a bright-orange skin that's thick and easy to peel. The pulp is sweet, flavorful and seedless. Available from late fall through late spring, the navel orange is sometimes called Washington, Riverside or Bahia navel. See also orange.
Navy Bean
a variety of kidney bean; small and ovoid with a white skin and flesh; a staple of the U.S. Navy since the 1880s, it is also known as the beautiful bean, Boston bean, and Yankee bean.
Neapolitan Ice Cream
an ice cream brick made up of layers of chocolate, strawberry and vanilla ice cream.
Neat
an undiluted alcohol.
Nectar
any delicious drink. In mythology, this was the drink of the Olympian gods. Also, the juice of plants collected for honey.
Nectarine
a medium-sized stone fruit (Prunus persica) with a smooth red and yellow skin, firm yellowish-pink flesh and a peachy flavor with undertones of almond; available as freestone and clingstone.
Nesselrode
a mold of ice cream flavored with candied fruits and chestnut puree. Also, a Bavarian cream similarly flavored and used in a pie.
Neufchâtel cheese
1.The French original, hailing from the town of Neufchâtel in the region of Normandy, is a soft, white, unripened cheese. When young, its flavor is slightly salty but delicate and mild. After ripening, Neufchâtel becomes more pungent. It's made from cows' milk and the milk fat content varies widely (from 20 to 45 percent). Neufchâtel is available in a variety of shapes square, rectangular, cylindrical and the special heart-shape variety called Coeur de Bray. 2. For information on the American version of Neufchâtel, see cream cheese. See also cheese.
New England boiled dinner
Originally made with salted beef, today this East Coast classic more commonly contains corned beef. Additional items such as chicken, cabbage, potatoes, parsnips, onions, carrots and seasonings are added at various times and slowly simmered together to create this hearty one-pot meal. New England boiled dinner is traditionally accompanied by horseradish and mustard.
New York steak
Also known as New York strip steak and shell steak, this cut of meat comes from the most tender section of beef, the short loin. It's the boneless top loin muscle and is equivalent to a porterhouse steak minus tenderloin and bone. Depending on the region, it's also marketed as Delmonico steak, Kansas City (strip) steak, shell steak, sirloin club steak and strip steak. This tender cut may be broiled, grilled or sautéed. See also beef.
Newburg
hot lobster or seafood cooked in a sherry sauce enriched with a thick cream sauce.
Newtown pippin apple
This all-purpose apple is great for both eating and cooking. The skin is greenish-yellow to yellow, the flesh crisp and juicy and the flavor slightly tart. Also called simply pippin or sometimes yellow pippin, this flavorful apple is available midwinter through midspring. See also apple.
Ni&231;oise
Dishes typical of cuisine from the Nice, France, region, where garlic, black olives, anchovies and tomatoes are nearly always part of the mix.
niçoise olive
Hailing from the Provence region of France (but also grown in Italy and Morocco), this small, oval olive ranges in color from purple-brown to brown-black. Niçoise olives are cured in brine and packed in olive oil. Good specimens have a rich, nutty, mellow flavor. See also olive.
niçoise, à la
A French phrase that means "as prepared in Nice," typifying the cuisine found in and around that French Riviera city. This cooking style is identified with hot and cold dishes that include the integral ingredients of tomatoes, black olives, garlic and anchovies. Salade niçoise contains these basic ingredients plus French green beans, onions, tuna, hard-cooked eggs and herbs.
Niagara grape
A North American table grape grown in the eastern United States and, because it doesn't ship well, found only in the areas where it's grown. The large, juicy Niagara is in season from September through October. It's round to oval in shape, pale greenish-white and has a sweet, foxy flavor. A limited number of Niagara grapes are made into wine. See also grape.
niboshi
Dried sardines, most often used in Japanese cuisine for creating a stronger-flavored soup stock than the more popular dashi. Niboshi is also eaten as a snack and used as a flavoring ingredient in various dishes.
Nicoise, à la
dishes with black olives, tomatoes, garlic, anchovies and dried cherries. Also, a candy of caramelized sugar and browned almonds.
nigella seeds
Also called black onion seeds, these tiny, angular, deep black seeds have a nutty, peppery flavor. They're used in India and the Middle East as a seasoning for vegetables, legumes and breads. Nigella seeds are sometimes erroneously referred to as black cumin, an entirely different species. They can be found in Middle Eastern and Indian markets. See also spices.
nimono
Japanese foods such as fish, meat and vegetables that are simmered in a seasoned broth. The broth may be flavored with various seasonings including dashi, miso, fresh ginger, red chiles or simply salt.
nockerl
There are two basic versions of this Austrian dumpling. The heartier, flour-based, savory rendition is served in soups and stews. The sweet version, known as Salzburger nokerl, contains very little flour and is made fluffy by the addition of stiffly beaten egg whites. It's generally used as an addition to fruit soups or served for dessert accompanied by fruit.
nog
1. A nickname for eggnog. 2. Any beverage made with beaten egg, milk and usually liquor. 3. In certain parts of England the term "nog" refers to strong ale.
Noisette
a) French for hazelnut; b) small, very tender round steak, usually of lamb beef or veal, cut from the rib or loin; c) as in beurre noisette: butter heated until it turns nut brown; used as a finishing touch for many dishes, especially fish;
nondairy creamer
Though called a "creamer," this product neither contains dairy products nor tastes particularly like cream. Its main function is to lighten the color and dilute the flavor of coffee. Nondairy creamers are made from ingredients such as coconut oil, palm oil or hydrogenated oil, sweeteners, emulsifiers and preservatives. Because they're so high in saturated fat, these pseudocream products are not recommended for those on low-cholesterol diets. Nondairy creamers are sold in several forms powdered, liquid and frozen.
nonpareil
1. A tiny colored-sugar pellet used to decorate cakes, cupcakes, cookies, candy, etc. 2. A confection consisting of a small chocolate disc covered with these colored candy pellets. 3. A French term meaning "without equal," most often used in reference to small pickled capers from the region of Provence in France.
Nonpareils
A small sphere of colored sugar, used to decorate confections.
nonstick finishes
These special coatings on cookware and bakeware allow for fat-free cooking, prevent food from sticking and require minimal cleanup. Some nonstick finishes are applied to the surface and can wear off over a period of time. Others are fired right onto the metal, making for a sturdier finish (and a higher cost). Most nonstick finishes are dishwasher safe but require the use of nonmetal utensils to prevent scratching the surfaces.
Noodles
ribbons of various lengths, widths and thicknesses made from a dough of wheat flour, water and eggs (or egg yolks) and generally boiled; also known as egg noodles.
nopales
Long popular in Mexico, these fleshy oval leaves (also called pads or paddles ) of the nopal (prickly pear) cactus are gaining popularity in the United States. They range in color from pale to dark green and have a delicate, slightly tart green-bean flavor. Though fresh nopales (also called cactus leaves ) are available year-round in Mexican markets and some supermarkets, they're at their most tender and juicy best in the spring. Look for small, firm, pale-green nopales with no sign of wrinkling. Refrigerate tightly wrapped for up to a week. Before use, the thorns must be removed; a vegetable peeler will shave them off quickly. The flesh is generally cut into small pieces or strips, simmered in water until tender and used in a variety of dishes from scrambled eggs to salads. Nopalitos (nopales that are diced or cut into strips) are available canned (pickled or packed in water). Acitrónes are candied nopales, packed in sugar syrup and available in cans or jars.
Nori
An edible, dark green seaweed frequently used in Japanese cooking for wrapping sushi.
Northern Spy apple
A large, sweet-tart apple with a red skin marked with yellow streaking. This all-purpose apple is available from October through March. It's also simply called spy apple. See also apple.
Nougat
A sometimes chewy and sometimes hard sweet substance made from sugar, almonds or other nuts and honey.
nouvelle cuisine
A French term meaning "new cooking," referring to a culinary style, begun in the early 1970s, that moved away from the rich, heavy style of classic French cuisine toward fresher, lighter food served in smaller portions. The sauces are lighter because they're reduced instead of being thickened with flour. Nouvelle cuisine vegetables are quickly cooked and therefore are tender yet slightly crisp.
nuoc cham
A Vietnamese condiment that's based on nuoc nam (fish sauce) combined with various seasonings that can include red chiles, garlic, lime juice, ginger, scallions and sugar.
nuoc nam
Vietnamese for fish sauce. See also nam pla.
nut mill
A utensil that attaches to the top of a countertop by means of a clamp-and-screw housing. Shelled nuts are placed in a top opening. When a hand crank is rotated, the nuts are pressed against a grating drum, which pulverizes them without releasing their natural oil. Nut mills are usually made of enameled cast iron.
Nutmeg
the hard seed of a yellow fruit from a tree (Myristica fragrans) native to the East Indies; has an oval shape and smooth texture with a strong, sweet aroma and flavor; used ground (grated) in sweet and savory dishes.
nutmeg grater; nutmeg grinder
Small tools used to turn the whole nutmeg seed into a coarse powder. A nutmeg grater has a fine-rasp, slightly curved surface. The grating is accomplished by rubbing the nutmeg across the grater's surface. Many graters store the whole nutmegs in containers attached to the bottom or back of the unit. A nutmeg grinder resembles a pepper grinder, except the cavity is designed specifically to hold a whole nutmeg with a small 4-pronged plate at the end of a central, spring-mounted post. The spring serves to keep downward pressure on the nutmeg, forcing it into a sharp blade that, when the crank is rotated, grates the nutmeg.
nuts
Any of various dry fruits that generally consist of an edible kernel enclosed in a shell that can range from medium-hard, thin and brittle to woody and tough. Botanically speaking, some foods we know as nuts are actually seeds (such as the brazil nut) or legumes (like the peanut). Among the more popular of the other "nuts" are almonds, cashews, chestnuts, macadamias, pecans, pistachios, pine nuts and walnuts. Most nuts are sold both shelled and unshelled. Shelled nuts come in many forms including blanched or not, whole, halved, chopped, sliced or minced. Additionally, shelled nuts come raw, dry-roasted, oil-roasted, with or without salt, smoked, candied and with various flavorings such as jalapeño and garlic. They're sold in plastic bags and boxes, and vacuum-packed in cans and jars. When buying unshelled nuts in bulk, choose those that are heavy for their size, with solid shells sans cracks or holes. The nut's kernel should not be loose enough to rattle when shaken. Shelled nuts should be plump, crisp and uniform in color and size. In general, nuts should be purchased as fresh as possible. Rancid nutmeats will ruin whatever food they flavor. To be sure that nuts are fresh whether shelled or unshelled buy them from a supplier with rapid turnover. Because of their high fat content, rancidity is always a hazard with nuts. For that reason they should be stored airtight in a cool place. Shelled nuts can be refrigerated in this manner up to 4 months, frozen up to 6 months. As a general rule (and depending on their freshness at the time of storage), unshelled nuts will keep about twice as long as shelled. Popular nut by-products include meal or flour (usually found in health-food stores) and nut butter and oils (the most popular being almond, hazelnut, peanut and walnut oils). Nuts are high in calcium, folic acid, magnesium, potassium, vitamin E and fiber. Some scientific studies have concluded that a daily portion of just 1 ounce of nuts rich in monounsaturated fat (see fats and oils) can reduce the risk of heart disease by up to 10 percent. The nuts highest in monounsaturated fat are almonds, Brazil nuts, hazelnuts, macadamia nuts, pecans, pistachios and walnuts. And, although 1 ounce of nuts delivers about 180 calories and 17 fat grams, 50 to 80 percent of that fat is monounsaturated (the "good" fat that helps reduce the level of ldl the "bad" cholesterol). Nuts are wonderful simply eaten out of hand as well as used in a wide variety of sweet and savory dishes for meals from breakfast to dinner. The flavor of most nuts benefits from a light toasting, either on stovetop or in the oven. See also black walnut; butternut; candlenut; english walnut; ginkgo nut; hazelnut; hickory nut.
O'Brien potatoes
Although the origin of the name is vague, it seems to come from the longtime association between the Irish and potatoes. The dish consists of diced potatoes (sometimes precooked) that are fried with chopped onions and pimientos until the potatoes are crisp and brown. Some variations use sweet red or green peppers instead of pimientos.
oats
According to a definition in Samuel Johnson's 1755 Dictionary of the English Language, oats were "a grain which in England is generally given to horses, but which in Scotland supports the people." Since oats are by far the most nutritious of the cereal grasses, it would appear that the Scots were ahead of the rest of us. Today, whole oats are still used as animal fodder. Humans don't usually consume them until after the oats have been cleaned, toasted, hulled and cleaned again, after which time they become oat groats (which still contain most of the original nutrients). Oat groats can be cooked and served as cereal, or prepared in the same manner as rice and used as a side dish or in a dish such as a salad or stuffing. When steamed and flattened with huge rollers, oat groats become regular rolled oats (also called old-fashioned oats ). They take about 15 minutes to cook. Quick-cooking rolled oats are groats that have been cut into several pieces before being steamed and rolled into thinner flakes. Though they cook in about 5 minutes, many think the flavor and texture are never quite as satisfying as with regular rolled oats. Old-fashioned oats and quick-cooking oats can usually be interchanged in recipes. Instant oats, however, are not interchangeable because they're made with cut groats that have been precooked and dried before being rolled. This precooking process so softens the oat pieces that, after being combined with a liquid, the mixture can turn baked goods such as muffins or cookies into gooey lumps. Most instant oatmeal is packaged with salt, sugar and other flavorings. Scotch oats or steel-cut oats or Irish oatmeal are all names for groats that have been cut into 2 to 3 pieces and not rolled. They take considerably longer to cook than rolled oats and have a decidedly chewy texture. Oat flour is made from groats that have been ground into powder. It contains no gluten, however, so for baked goods that need to rise, like yeast breads must be combined with a flour that does. Oat bran is the outer casing of the oat and is particularly high in soluble fiber, thought to be a leading contender in the fight against high cholesterol. Oat bran, groats, flour and Scotch oats are more likely to be found in health-food stores than supermarkets. Oats are high in vitamin B-1 and contain a good amount of vitamins B-2 and E.
oeuf
The French word for "egg."
Offal
The (some would say aptly named) British term for edible internal organs and extremities of animals.
oils
Oils have been used for cooking since prehistoric times. In general, oils come from vegetable sources plants, nuts, seeds, etc. An oil is extracted from its source by one of two methods. In the solvent-extraction method, the ground ingredient is soaked in a chemical solvent that is later removed by boiling. The second method produces cold pressed oils, which is somewhat a misnomer because the mixture is heated to temperatures up to 160°F before being pressed to extract the oil. After the oil is extracted, it's either left in its crude state or refined. Refined oils those found on most supermarket shelves have been treated until they're transparent. They have a delicate, somewhat neutral, flavor, an increased smoke point and a longer shelf life. Unrefined (or crude) oils are usually cloudy and have an intense flavor and odor that clearly signals their origin. Most oils can be stored, sealed airtight, on the kitchen shelf for up to 2 months. Oils with a high proportion of monounsaturates such as olive oil and peanut oil are more perishable and should be refrigerated if kept longer than a month. Because they turn rancid quickly, unrefined oils should always be refrigerated. See fats and oils listing for detailed information on hydrogenated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated oils. See also almond oil; canola oil; chili oil; coconut oil; corn oil; grapeseed oil; hazelnut oil; mustard oil; olive oil; palm oil; peanut oil; safflower oil; sesame oil; sunflower seeds; soybean oil; trans fatty acids; vegetable oil; walnut oil.
okara
The residue that is left after the liquid is drained off when making soybean curd (tofu). This white by-product resembles wet sawdust. Okara, which is high in protein and fiber, is used in Japanese cooking for soups, vegetable dishes and even salads. It can be found in Asian markets that sell fresh tofu.
okashi
Japanese for confections, pastries and sweets. Sometimes spelled simply kashi.
okolehao
An 80 proof Hawaiian liquor made from a mash of the ti plant. It's often substituted for rum and, like rum, comes in white (colorless) and golden versions. Okolehao is known on the islands as oke.
okra
Ethiopian slaves brought the okra plant to America's South, where it's still popular today. The green okra pods have a ridged skin and a tapered, oblong shape. Although available fresh year-round in the South, the season for the rest of the country is from about May through October. When buying fresh okra look for firm, brightly colored pods under 4 inches long. Larger pods may be tough and fibrous. Avoid those that are dull in color, limp or blemished. Refrigerate okra in a plastic bag for up to 3 days. Canned and frozen okra is also available. These green pods can be prepared in a variety of ways including braising, baking and frying. When cooked, okra gives off a rather viscous substance that serves to thicken any liquid in which it is cooked. Throughout the South, it's a favorite ingredient in many dishes, the best known being gumbo, where it's used both for thickening and for flavor. Fresh okra contains fair amounts of vitamins A and C.
olallieberry; olallie berry
Grown mainly on the West Coast, this cross between a youngberry and a loganberry has a distinctive, sweet flavor and resembles a large, elongated blackberry. It's delicious both fresh and cooked and makes excellent jams and jellies.
old-fashioned
Said to have been made initially with a brand of Kentucky bourbon called "Old 1776" in the late 1800s, this drink is made by combining whiskey (usually bourbon or rye), a small amount of water, a dash of bitters and a sugar cube (or the equivalent amount of sugar syrup). It's served over ice in a squat glass commonly called an old-fashioned glass and garnished with an orange slice and a maraschino cherry.
olivada
An Italian olive spread, which is generally a simple combination of pureed Italian black olives, olive oil and black pepper.
Olive
the small fruit of a tree native to the Mediterranean region; has a single pit, high oil content, green color before ripening and green or black color after ripening and an inedibly bitter flavor when raw; eaten on its own after washing, soaking and pickling, or pressed for oil; available in a range of sizes (from smallest to largest): medium, colossal, supercolossal and jumbo.
Olive Oil
an oil obtained by pressing tree-ripened olives; has a distinctive fruity, olive flavor and is graded according to its degree of acidity; used as a cooking medium, flavoring and ingredient.
oloroso
A full-flavored sherry that has a dark, rich color. Olorosos are usually aged longer than most sherries and are therefore also more expensive. They're often labeled cream or golden sherry.
omelet pan
A pan with shallow sloping sides, a flat bottom and a long handle. It's designed for easy movement, turning and removal of an omelet or other egg mixtures. Omelet pans range from 6 to 10 inches in diameter and can be made of aluminum, plain or enameled cast iron or stainless steel. Many of today's omelet pans have nonstick finishes.
omelet; omelette
A mixture of eggs, seasonings and sometimes water or milk, cooked in butter until firm and filled or topped with various fillings such as cheese, cured or smoked meat, mushrooms, onions, peppers, sausage and herbs. Sweet omelets can be filled with jelly, custard or fruit, sprinkled with confectioners' sugar or flamed with various liquors or liqueurs. For fluffy omelets, the whites and yolks can be beaten separately and folded together. They can also be served flat or folded. See also frittata.
on the rocks
When a beverage (usually liquor) is served over ice without added water or other mixer, it's usually referred to as "on the rocks."
onion
Related to the lily, this underground bulb is prized around the world for the magic it makes in a multitude of dishes with its pungent flavor and odor. There are two main classifications of onion green onions (also called scallions) and dry onions, which are simply mature onions with a juicy flesh covered with dry, papery skin. Dry onions come in a wide range of sizes, shapes and flavors. Among those that are mild flavored are the white or yellow Bermuda onion, available March through June; the larger, more spherical Spanish onion, which is usually yellow skinned (but can be white) and in season from August to May; and the red or Italian onion, which is available year-round. The stronger-flavored globe onions can have yellow, red or white skins. They can range from 1 to 4 inches in diameter and in flavor from mildly pungent to quite sharp. Among the special onion varieties are three exceedingly juicy specimens. The Maui onion, hailing as its name implies from the Hawaiian island of the same name, is sweet, mild and crisply moist. It can range in color from white to pale yellow and is usually shaped like a slightly flattened sphere. The Maui onion's season is from April to July. Vidalia onions are the namesake of Vidalia, Georgia, where they thrive. At their best, these large, pale yellow onions are exceedingly sweet and juicy. They're usually available from May through June only in the regions where grown or by mail order. The state of Washington is the source of Walla Walla onions, named after the city of the same name. Large, round and golden, they're in season from June to September but are usually available outside their growing area only by mail order. Oso Sweet onions hail from South America and, as their name suggests, are extremely succulent and sweet and, in fact, contain almost 50 percent more sugar than Vidalias. They're available in specialty produce markets from January through March. Another import is the Rio Sweet onion, which is predictably sweet and available from October through December. Tiny pearl onions are mild-flavored and about the size of a small marble. They can be cooked (and are often creamed) and served as a side dish or pickled and used as a condiment or garnish (as in the gibson cocktail). Boiling onions are about 1 inch in diameter and mildly flavored. They're cooked as a side dish, used in stews and pickled. When buying onions, choose those that are heavy for their size with dry, papery skins with no signs of spotting or moistness. Avoid onions with soft spots. Store in a cool, dry place with good air circulation for up to 2 months (depending on their condition when purchased). Humidity breeds spoilage in dry onions. Once cut, an onion should be tightly wrapped, refrigerated and used within 4 days. Most onions cause tearing (caused by sulfuric compounds) to some extent some just watery eyes, others giant crocodile tears. Freezing the onion for 20 minutes before chop-ping helps, but then so does wearing safety goggles. Dried or freeze-dried onion by-products include onion powder (ground dehydrated onion), onion salt (onion powder and salt), onion flakes and onion flavoring cubes. Onions are also sold canned or pickled (usually pearl onions) and frozen (whole or chopped). Onions contain a fair amount of vitamin C with traces of other vitamins and minerals. See also chive; leek; scallion; shallot.
opah
Also called moonfish, the opah is a marine fish that can reach up to 200 pounds. It's found in warm waters throughout the world but that which is available in the United States usually comes from Hawaii. The pinkish flesh of this fish is rich, full flavored and fine textured. It's suitable for baking, poaching and steaming. See also fish.
opakapaka; opaka-paka
A deep water marine fish found in the waters surrounding the Hawaiian Islands. Its sweet, delicate flesh ranges from white to pink in color, however, cooked opakapaka is always white. It can run from lean to fat, depending on the season (they're fattier in the winter). Opakapaka is suitable for almost any cooking method. In Hawaii, it's also referred to as pink snapper. See also fish.
open dating
A system required by the Food and Drug Administration whereby food products are dated as an indicator to shelf life and perishability. Most perishables are stamped with a pull (or sell ) date by which the retailer should remove the product if not sold. A freshness date may be found on highly perishable products (like baked goods), stipulating the date when a product will no longer seem fresh. Some products bear a pack date, indicating when it was packaged, although this date is often coded so that only manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers can read it; most retailers will explain the codes if asked. The pack date on some products, such as eggs, is shown by a Julian date (1 through 365), whereby January 1 is number 1, and December 31 is number 365. There's generally leeway for home storage allowed by the open dating system. Obviously, for perishables like dairy products and baked goods, the farther out they're dated, the longer the food will remain useable at home. An expiration date may be found on some longer-lived products and tells the consumer when the manufacturer anticipates the product will no longer likely be useable.
open-faced
A descriptor used culinarily for a "sandwich" consisting of one slice of bread topped with various ingredients such as sliced meat, cheese, pickles, etc. Open-faced sandwiches are very popular in Scandinavia, where they've become an art form with elaborately arranged and decorated combinations. For the most part, open-faced sandwiches are cold, but there are also hot ones, which usually consist of bread topped with meat slices and gravy.
Orange
any of a variety of citrus (Citrus sinensis) with juicy, orange-colored segmented flesh, a thin to moderately thick orange-colored rind and a flavor ranging from bitter to tart to sweet; depending on the variety, an orange can be eaten fresh, cooked in sweet or savory dishes, juiced or used as a flavoring or aromatic.
orange roughy
This New Zealand fish (also known as slimehead ) is fast becoming popular in the United States. It's low in fat, has firm white flesh and a mild flavor. Orange roughy is available in specialty fish markets and some supermarkets. It can be poached, baked, broiled or fried. See also fish.
Orange Water / Orange Flower Water
a liquid essence of distilled orange blossoms, once used for flavoring.
orange-flower water
A perfumy distillation of bitter-orange blossoms. Orange-flower water is used as a flavoring in baked goods, various sweet and savory dishes and a variety of drinks, such as the Ramos gin fizz cocktail.
orecchiette
Italian for "little ears," referring culinary to tiny disk-shaped pasta.
Oregano
an herb (Origanum vulgare) and the wild form of marjoram; has a woody stalk with clumps of tiny, dark green leaves that have a pungent, peppery flavor and are used fresh or dried, principally in Italian and Greek cuisines; also known as wild marjoram.
organic food
Food that is cultivated and/or processed without the use of chemicals of any sort including fertilizers, insecticides, artificial coloring or flavoring and additives. Although consumers assume that foods labeled organic are as pure as possible, the truth is that while many states have their own organic food laws there are no consistent regulations guiding and/or governing the standards of organic food producers. This means that chemical cross-contamination (through shipping, wind, water leeching, etc.) is, with some growers and shippers, a possibility. In 1990, Congress passed the Federal Organic Foods Production Act, which called for national organic food guidelines including certification of growers and standards for organic food production, monitoring crops for chemical contamination and livestock for living conditions and screening organic imports. At this writing, however, this Act has yet to go into effect. That same year (1990), California, long at the vanguard of the organic food movement, established the United States' toughest state food standards with its California Organic Food Act, which goes so far as to inspect produce on market shelves. Until the Federal Organic Foods Production Act is implemented, the consumer's best safeguard for reliable organic food is to buy from a reputable purveyor.
orgeat syrup
The original version of this sweet syrup was made with a barley-almond blend. Today, however, it's made with almonds, sugar and rose water or orange-flower water. Orgeat syrup has a pronounced almond taste and is used to flavor many cocktails including the mai tai and scorpion.
Orzo
Italian for barley and used to describe rice-like pasta.
Osso bucco
An Italian dish of braised veal shanks with white wine, onion, carrots, celery, and tomatoes.
osso buco; ossobuco
An Italian dish made of veal shanks braised with olive oil, white wine, stock, onions, tomatoes, garlic, anchovies, carrots, celery and lemon peel. Traditionally, osso buco is garnished with gremolata and served accompanied by risotto.
Ossobucco
literally, hollow bone, this Italian specialty is made of veal marrow bones, usually shin bones, braised in wine with vegetables and seasonings.
ostrich
Hailing from Africa and parts of southwest Asia, the ostrich is a huge flightless bird that can weigh up to 250 pounds and reach up to 7 feet in height. Ostriches have long been raised for their skin, feathers and meat, the latter of which is compared to very lean beef. Ostrich meat is showing up more and more on restaurant menus, a direct correlation to the fact that the United States now boasts hundreds of ostrich ranches. Though some specialty meat markets may carry (or will special order) ostrich meat, it is still uncommon.
Ouzo; Arrack; Pastis
From Greece, this clear, sweet anise-flavored liqueur is usually served as an apéritif. It's generally mixed with water, which turns it whitish and opaque. Arrack is from Israel. Pastis is from France.
Oven Bag
a heat-resistant nylon bag for cooking meals without basting or tending.
oven thermometer
A thermometer designed to read oven temperatures, which are often inaccurately indicated by the oven dial. Erroneous oven temperatures can create all kinds of culinary havoc, from gooey centers in baked goods to burning or drying of a wide range of foods. Oven thermometers can vary in quality and, consequently, price. The spring-style thermometer available in most supermarkets can become unreliable with a small jolt or with continual use. Mercury oven thermometers, available in gourmet supply shops, are more accurate and reliable. See also candy thermometer; freezer/refrigerator thermometer; meat thermometer.
Overhaul
The process where food that is being marinated, brined, or cured is turned or rotated it its liquid to ensure that the product is evenly treated on all sides.
oxalic acid
This acid occurs in many plants and is poisonous in excessive amounts. Some of the plants that contain a measurable amount of oxalic acid are sorrel, spinach and rhubarb. Because it forms insoluble compounds with calcium and iron, inhibiting their absorption by the human body, oxalic acid greatly diminishes the purported nutritional punch of spinach.
Oxtail
A very flavorful cut of meat usually from beef or veal tail. Can be very tough so, often requires long, slow braising.
oyster mushroom
This fan-shaped mushroom grows both wild and cultivated in close clusters, often on rotting tree trunks. They're also called oyster caps, tree mushrooms, tree oyster mushrooms, summer oyster mushrooms, pleurotte and shimeji. The cap varies in color from pale gray to dark brownish-gray. The stems are grayish-white. The flavor of raw oyster mushrooms is fairly robust and slightly peppery but becomes much milder when cooked. They're available in some areas year-round, particularly in specialty produce and Asian markets. Young oyster mushrooms (1 1/2 inches in diameter and under) are considered the best. Also available are canned oyster mushrooms, which should be rinsed before using. See also mushroom.
ozoni
A Japanese soup that's traditionally served at New Year's festivities, although it's popular at other times of the year as well. Also called simply zoni, this soup contains pieces of chicken and various other ingredients (depending on the cook) including dashi, daikon and other vegetables. Ozoni is served in deep bowls over rice cakes.
Pâté
Ground meat, fish or vegetables blended with fat and seasonings; can be smooth or chunky, served cold or hot.
Pâte
French for dough, paste or batter.
pâté
French for "pie," this word with accent over the "e" is generally used to refer to various elegant, well-seasoned ground-meat preparations. A pâté can be satiny-smooth and spreadable or, like country pâté, coarsely textured. It can be made from a finely ground or chunky mixture of meats (such as beef, veal, or lamb), fish, poultry, game, vegetables, etc. Seasonings and fat are usually also included in the mixture, which can be combined before or after cooking. pâtés may be cooked in a crust, in which case they're referred to as pâté en croûte. They may also be cooked in a fat-lined container called a terrine (or any other similarly sized mold), in which case they're called pâté en terrine. Traditional parlance says that when such a mixture is cooked and served in a terrine, the dish is also called a terrine, and when unmolded it becomes a pâté. Today, however, the two terms are often used interchangeably. pâtés may be hot or cold and are usually served as a first course or appetizer.
pâte
This pâte (without an accent over the "e") is the French word for "dough," "paste," "batter" or "pastry." pâte brisée is pie dough or short pastry; pâte sucrée is sweet pastry. pasta is translated as pâte alimentaire, almond paste as pâte d'amandes and tomato paste as pâte de tomates.
pâte brisée
A French term for "short pastry," a rich flaky dough used for sweet and savory crusts for dishes such as pies, tarts, quiches and barquettes.
pâte feuilletée
The French term for "puff pastry." See also feuilletage.
pâte sucrée
A French term for a rich, sweetened short pastry used for desserts such as pies, tarts and filled cookies.
pâtisserie
This French word has three different meanings: 1. The general category of sweet baked goods including cakes, cookies, cream puffs, etc. 2. The art of pastrymaking. 3. A shop where pastries are made and sold.
pâtissier
The French word for "pastry cook" or "pastry chef."
périgourdine, à la
French for "as prepared in the style of Périgord," referring to dishes garnished or flavored with truffles as well as those served with Périgueux sauce. The term is derived from France's Périgord region, which is famous for its black truffles.
Périgueux sauce
A rich brown sauce flavored with madeira and truffles. The sauce, which goes with a variety of dishes including meat, game, poultry and eggs, is named after Périgueux, a city in the Périgord region of Southwest France that is noted for its truffles. Dishes using the sauce are often labeled à la Périgourdine or simply Périgueux.
pad thai
Thailand's most well known noodle dish, pad thai combines cooked rice noodles, tofu, fish, crushed peanuts, nam pla, bean sprouts, garlic, chiles and eggs, all stir-fried together.
Paella
A saffron-flavored rice dish with meats, vegetables or fish; named for the large shallow pan in which it is traditionally cooked.
Paillard
A thin slice of meat, grilled or sautéed.
pain
1. The French word for "bread" or "loaf of bread." Various types of bread in France include: pain aux noix (nut bread), pain complet (whole wheat bread), pain d'épices (spiced or gingerbread), pain grillé (toasted bread), pain de mie (sliced, packaged white bread), pain ordinaire (peasant bread), pain perdu (french toast) and pain petit (roll). 2. The word pain is also used in France to describe a baked, molded loaf of forcemeat bound with a panade. Such a meat, poultry, fish or vegetable pain can be served hot, cold or at room temperature.
pakora
A deep-fried fritter popular in India. The batter is generally based on besan flour (ground chickpeas) and can contain most anything including vegetables, fruit, rice, fish or meat. Usually small, the crisply fried pakoras are most often served as appetizers or snacks.
palacsinta
A thin Hungarian pancake or crêpe, referred to by the Austrians as palatchinken. They are usually assembled in a stack of 6 or 7, layered with a filling. The savory rendition is often filled with chopped cured meats, fish, veal, mushrooms or other vegetables combined with a cream sauce or sour cream. The dessert version is made with slightly sweeter batter and spread with a sweet filling such as jam. Before serving, the stack is cut into wedges.
palak panir; palak paneer
In India, palak means "spinach"; panir is a type of fresh, unripened cheese. It's logical, therefore, that palak panir dishes contain spinach and panir. Such dishes can include various other ingredients and be prepared in many ways. For example, palak panir pulau is a rice dish with spinach, panir, lemon juice and various seasonings like coriander, cayenne pepper, cumin and mustard. Palak panir sak contains finely chopped (sometimes pureed) spinach and chiles along with various seasonings and fried cubes of panir.
palm oil; palm-kernel oil
The reddish-orange oil extracted from the pulp of the fruit of the African palm. It's extremely high in saturated fat (78 percent) and has a distinctive flavor that is popular in West African and Brazilian cooking. Palm-kernel oil, though also high in saturated fat, is a different oil extracted from the nut or kernel of palms. It's a yellowish-white color and has a pleasantly mild flavor. Palm-kernel oil is used in the manufacture of margarine and cosmetics. It's usually listed on labels simply as "palm oil." See also fats and oils.
palmier
Also called palm leaves, this crispy delicacy is puff pastry dough that is sprinkled with granulated sugar, folded and rolled several times, then cut into thin strips. After baking, these golden brown, caramelized pastries are served with coffee or tea or as a dessert accompaniment.
pan
Spanish for "bread." Pan integral is whole wheat bread, pan tostado is toasted bread. A panadería is a bakery.
pan bagnat
Popular in Southern France, both in cafés and for picnics, pan bagnat is a sandwich composed of a large, split loaf or bun, the inside of which is brushed with olive oil, then filled with green pepper slices, black olives, onion slices, anchovies, tomato slices and hard-cooked egg slices all drizzled with vinaigrette.
pan-broil; panbroil
To cook meats or fish quickly in a heavy, ungreased (or lightly greased) frying pan over high heat. Drippings are poured off as they form.
panada; panade
1. A thick paste made by mixing bread crumbs, flour, rice, etc. with water, milk, stock, butter or sometimes egg yolks. It's used to bind meatballs, fish cakes, forcemeats and quenelles. 2. A sweet or savory soup made with bread crumbs and various other ingredients. It may be strained before serving.
pancake
As one of humankind's oldest forms of bread, the versatile pancake has hundreds of variations and is served for breakfast, lunch and dinner and as appetizers, entrées and desserts. Pancakes begin as a batter that is poured into rounds, either on a griddle or in a skillet, and cooked over high heat. These round cakes vary in thickness from the wafer-thin French crêpe to the much thicker American breakfast pancake (also called hotcake, griddlecake and flapjack ). Many countries have specialty pancakes such as Hungarian palacsinta and Russian blini.
pandowdy
Also called apple pandowdy, this deep-dish dessert is made of sliced apples, butter, spices, brown sugar or molasses, all topped with a biscuit batter that becomes crisp and crumbly after baking. It can be served hot or at room temperature and is often accompanied by cream or ice cream. The origin of the name is unclear, although some seem to think it comes from the dessert's dowdy (plain and old-fashioned) appearance.
pane
Italian for "bread."
panettone
A sweet yeast bread made with raisins, citron, pine nuts and anise and baked in a tall cylindrical shape. It originated in Milan, Italy, and is traditionally served at Christmastime, but also for celebrations such as weddings and christenings. Panettone can be served as a bread, coffeecake or dessert.
panforte
Because this confection is a specialty of Siena, Italy, it's also called Siena cake. This dense, flat cake is rich with honey, hazelnuts, almonds, candied citron, citrus peel, cocoa and spices. It contains only a tiny amount of flour just enough to hold the fruits and nuts together. After baking, panforte becomes hard and chewy.
panino
Italian for "roll" or "biscuit."
panir
A fresh, unripened cheese, similar to farmer cheese or pot cheese. Panir, also spelled paneer, is made from whole cow's or buffalo's milk and curdled with lemon or lime juice or with whey from a previous batch. It's essentially the same cheese as chenna, but panir has been pressed until its texture is firm comparable to that of tofu. Panir, which is customarily diced and sautéed, is used throughout India in a variety of dishes including dal, salads and vegetables; it's an essential protein source in many vegetarian diets.
Panko
Coarse breadcrumbs used in Japanese cooking.
Panna cotta
Italian egg custard.
pansotti
Italian for "pot bellied," culinarily describing triangular-shaped stuffed pasta with pinked edges.
Panzanella
Italian bread salad with tomatoes, basil, onion, olive oil, vinegar and sometimes other ingredients.
papain
An enzyme extracted from papaya and employed as a meat tenderizer, and as an agent used to clarify liquids (especially beer). See also meat tenderizers.
papaw
Both the papaya and the papaw are sometimes referred to as pawpaw, which is thoroughly confusing because they're entirely different fruits. The papaw is a North American native that's a member of the cherimoya family. It can range from 2 to 6 inches long and looks like a fat, dark-brown banana. The aromatic flesh is pale yellow and peppered with a profusion of seeds. It has a custardlike texture and a sweet flavor reminiscent of bananas and pears. Papaws are seldom cultivated and are rarely found in markets.
papaya
Like the papaw, the papaya is native to North America (and in some regions, also called pawpaw ). But with those two comparisons the similarities end. The papaya tree is a horticultural wonder, growing from seed to a 20-foot, fruit-bearing tree in less than 18 months. Papayas are cultivated in semitropical zones around the world and can range in size from 1 to 20 pounds. The papaya variety found most often in the United States is the Solo, grown in Hawaii and Florida. It's large (about 6 inches long and 1 to 2 pounds in weight) and pear shaped; when ripe, it has a vivid golden-yellow skin. The similarly colored flesh is juicy and silky smooth, with an exotic sweet-tart flavor. The rather large center cavity is packed with shiny, grayish-black seeds. Though the peppery seeds are edible (and make a delicious salad dressing), they're generally discarded. Look for richly colored papayas that give slightly to palm pressure. Slightly green papayas will ripen quickly at room temperature, especially if placed in a paper bag. Refrigerate completely ripe fruit and use as soon as possible. Ripe papaya is best eaten raw, whereas slightly green fruit can be cooked as a vegetable. Papaya juice (or nectar) is available in many supermarkets and health-food stores. The fruit contains papain, a digestive enzyme that is used chiefly in meat tenderizers. Papaya is a very good source of vitamins A and C. See also babáco.
Papillote
The term "en papilotte" is used to describe a dish that is cooked (and usually served) in a parcel of greased parchment paper that protects it from the high heat of the oven and retains aroma and flavor.
pappadam; poppadum
A wafer-thin East Indian bread made with lentil flour. This TORTILLAlike bread can be unseasoned (as preferred in southern India) or variously flavored with red or black pepper, garlic or other seasonings, as in northern India. Pappadams are available in Indian markets in various sizes and flavors. Deep-fried pappadams puff up to almost double their original size. Grilling them over an open flame will give them a smoky flavor.
pappardelle
Wide noodles (about 5/8 inch) with rippled sides. See also pasta.
paprikás csirke
Also called chicken paprikash, this Hungarian dish consists of chicken and onions browned in fat or oil, then braised with chicken stock, paprika and other seasonings. A sauce is made from the braising liquid mixed with sour cream. Although chicken is traditionally used, versions of this dish are also made with meat and fish.
paprika
Used as a seasoning and garnish for a plethora of savory dishes, paprika is a powder made by grinding aromatic sweet red pepper pods. The pods are quite tough, so several grindings are necessary to produce the proper texture. The flavor of paprika can range from mild to pungent and hot, the color from bright orange-red to deep blood-red. Most commercial paprika comes from Spain, South America, California and Hungary, with the Hungarian variety considered by many to be superior. Indeed, Hungarian cuisine has long used paprika as a mainstay flavoring rather than simply as a garnish. All supermarkets carry mild paprikas, while ethnic markets must be searched out for the more pungent varieties. As with all herbs and spices, paprika should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. See also spices; herb and spice chart
paratha
This flaky East Indian bread is made with whole-wheat flour and fried on a griddle. Parathas range from the simple to the exotic. The basic version simply has ghee (clarified butter) brushed between multiple layers of dough that are then folded and rolled out again. This technique creates a flaky bread resembling puff pastry. More exotic versions of paratha are stuffed with various vegetables, fruits, herbs or spices.
Parboil
To cook partially by boiling briefly.
parch, to
To dry grains or starchy vegetables like corn, peas and beans by roasting slightly without burning.
parchment paper
A heavy, grease- and moisture-resistant paper with a number of culinary uses including lining baking pans, wrapping foods that are to be baked en papillote and to make disposable pastry bags. Parchment paper is available in gourmet kitchenware stores and many supermarkets.
pare
To remove the thin outer layer of foods like fruits and vegetables with a small, short-bladed knife (called a paring knife) or with a vegetable peeler.
pareve; parve
A Jewish term describing food made without animal or dairy ingredients. According to kosher dietary laws, animal food cannot be consumed at the same meal with dairy food, but a pareve food may be combined or eaten with either. In order to be pareve, breads and cakes must be made with vegetable oils and not with butter or other animal fat.
parfait
1. In the United States, this dessert consists of ice cream layered with flavored syrup or fruit and whipped cream. It's often topped with whipped cream, nuts and sometimes a maraschino cherry. 2. A French parfait is a frozen custard dessert made with egg yolks, sugar, whipped cream and a flavoring such as fruit puree. In French, parfait means "perfect," which is how many view this dessert. Both American and French parfaits are served in tall, narrow, footed "parfait glasses."
Paris-Brest
A delightful French dessert said to have been created by a pastry chef in honor of a bicycle race between Paris and Brest. It consists of a baked almond-topped choux pastry ring (patterned after a bicycle tire) that is split and filled with a praline-flavored buttercream.
parisienne sauce
1. A creamy sauce, classically used to top cold asparagus, made by blending cream cheese, oil, lemon juice, chervil and sometimes paprika. 2. Another name for allemande sauce.
Parker House roll; Parkerhouse
A yeast roll that became famous during the late 19th century at the Parker House, a Boston hotel. It gets its special shape when an off-center crease is made in a round piece of dough before it's folded in half. The result after baking is a light, puffy bun.
parmentier
A descriptor for a dish garnished or made with potatoes.
Parmesan cheese
This hard, dry cheese is made from skimmed or partially skimmed cow's milk. It has a hard, pale-golden rind and a straw-colored interior with a rich, sharp flavor. There are Parmesan cheeses made in Argentina, Australia and the United States, but none compares with Italy's preeminent Parmigiano-Reggiano, with its granular texture that melts in the mouth. Whereas the U.S. renditions are aged 14 months, Parmigiano-Reggianos are more often aged 2 years. Those labeled stravecchio have been aged 3 years, while stravecchiones are 4 years old. Their complex flavor and extremely granular texture are a result of the long aging. The words Parmigiano-Reggiano stenciled on the rind mean that the cheese was produced in the areas of Bologna, Mantua, Modena or Parma (from which the name of this cheese originated). Parmesans are primarily used for grating and in Italy are termed grana, meaning "grain" and referring to their granular textures. Pregrated Parmesan is available but doesn't compare with freshly grated. Both domestic and imported Parmesans are available in specialty cheese stores, Italian markets and many supermarkets. See also cheese.
parmigiana, alla
A term describing food that is made or cooked with parmesan cheese. For instance, veal parmigiana is a pounded veal cutlet dipped in an egg-milk solution and then into a mixture of bread crumbs, grated Paremesan cheese and seasonings. The cutlet is then sautéed and covered with a tomato sauce. Eggplant parmigiana consists of eggplant slices prepared in the same manner. Slices of mozzarella cheese are sometimes melted on top of the food prior to adding the tomato sauce.
parsley
In ancient times parsley wreaths were used to ward off drunkenness though proof of their efficacy in that capacity is scarce. Today, this slightly peppery, fresh-flavored herb is more commonly used as a flavoring and garnish. Though there are more than 30 varieties of this herb, the most popular are curly-leaf parsley and the more strongly flavored Italian or flat-leaf parsley. Fresh curly leaf parsley is widely available year-round, while Italian parsley must sometimes be searched out in gourmet produce markets. Parsley is sold in bunches and should be chosen for its bright-green leaves that show no sign of wilting. Wash fresh parsley, shaking off excess moisture, and wrap first in paper towels, then in a plastic bag. Refrigerate for up to a week. Dried parsley is available in the spice section of most supermarkets but bears little resemblance to the flavor of fresh. Parsley is an excellent source of vitamins A and C. See also herbs; herb and spice chart.
parsley root
Also called Hamburg parsley and turnip-rooted parsley, this parsley subspecies is grown for its beige, carrotlike root, which tastes like a carrot-celery cross. It's used in parts of Europe in soups, stews and simply as a vegetable. Parsley root is rarely found in U.S. markets. When available, choose firm roots with feathery, bright-green leaves. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to a week. Remove leaves just before using roots. Parsley-root leaves may be used in the same manner as regular parsley.
parsnip
Europeans brought the parsnip to the United States in the early 1600s but this creamy-white root has never become an American favorite. The first frost of the year converts the parsnip's starch to sugar and gives it a pleasantly sweet flavor. Fresh parsnips are available year-round with the peak period during fall and winter. Look for small to medium, well-shaped roots; avoid limp, shriveled or spotted parsnips.They can be refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. Parsnips are suitable for almost any method of cooking including baking, boiling, sautéing and steaming. They're often boiled, then mashed like potatoes. Parsnips contain small amounts of iron and vitamin C.
partridge
Strictly speaking, there are two main varieties of this game bird the gray partridge and the red-legged partridge neither of which is a North American native. In various regions of the United States, the name "partridge" is erroneously applied to other birds including the ruffed grouse, quail and bobwhite. All of these birds are plump and have white, tender, slightly gamey flesh. Frozen partridges are available at some specialty meat and poultry markets. They usually weigh 12 to 14 ounces. Partridges can be cooked in a variety of ways including roasting, broiling and braising. The meat also makes a tasty addition to soups and stews.
pasilla chile
In its fresh form this chile is called a chilaca. It's generally 6 to 8 inches long and 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter. The rich-flavored, medium-hot pasilla is a blackish-brown color, which is why it's also called chile negro. This chile is sold whole, and powdered. It's particularly good for use in sauces.
paskha
A Russian sweet cheese mold traditionally served at Easter. It consists of a combination of sweetened pot cheese (or cottage cheese), nuts (usually almonds) and candied or dried fruit. Classically, this mixture is molded into the shape of a four-sided pyramid. The paskha is decorated with nuts or candy to form the letters xb, which stands for "Christ is risen." Paskha is the traditional accompaniment for the sweet yeast bread kulich.
passion fruit
This tropical fruit is said to be named not for the passionate propensity it promotes but because particular parts of the plant's flowers resemble different symbols of Christ's crucifixion, such as the crown of thorns. Though native to Brazil, passion fruit (also called granadilla ) is now also grown in Australia, California, Florida, Hawaii (where it's called lilikoi ) and New Zealand. The most common variety marketed in the United States is egg-shaped and about 3 inches long. When ripe, it has a dimpled, deep-purple skin and a soft, golden flesh generously punctuated with tiny, edible black seeds. The flavor is seductively sweet-tart and the fragrance tropical and perfumy. Fresh passion fruit is available from March through September in Latin markets and some supermarkets. Choose large, heavy, firm fruit with a deep-purple color. Store ripe passion fruit in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. It can be served plain as a dessert or used to flavor a variety of foods like sauces, ice creams and beverages. Canned passion-fruit nectar is available in many supermarkets. Passion fruit contains a small amount of vitamins A and C.
pasta
Though many pundits claim that Marco Polo brought the idea of noodles back with him to Italy from China, the truth is that this food form existed in both places independently long before Polo's expeditions. In fact, archaeological documentation now points to the fact that noodles probably originated in central Asia, possibly dating back to at least 1000 b.c. Almost every country has a form of pasta. The Germans enjoy spaetzle, Poles have their pierogi and throughout the Orient there are dozens of noodles, usually made with rice or soy flour rather than wheat flour (see asian noodles). In Italian, the word pasta means "paste," and refers to the dough made by combining durum wheat flour called semolina with a liquid, usually water or milk. The term "pasta" is used broadly and generically to describe a wide variety of noodles made from this type of dough. Some doughs have a little egg added, though doughs made with only flour and eggs are generally referred to as noodles. There are hundreds of shapes, sizes, thicknesses and colors of pasta. macaroni and spaghetti are probably the most popular, though each of those categories has many size and shape varieties. Additionally, there are dozens of fancy shapes such as conchiglie (shells), farfalle (bows) and rotelle (little corkscrews). Other pastas, such as ravioli and tortellini, have fillings. Some pastas are colored, often with spinach (green),and beet juice or tomato paste (red). Pasta also comes in both dried and fresh forms. As a general rule, imported dried pasta is superior to American factory-made products, mainly because the imported pasta is only made with semolina, which doesn't absorb too much water and is pleasantly firm when cooked al dente. A good selection of dried pastas can be found in most supermarkets, and an even broader variety is available in Italian markets. It should be stored airtight in a cool, dry place and can be kept almost indefinitely. Fresh pasta is often made with eggs instead of water; it can increasingly be found in many supermarkets and is always available in Italian markets. Because it's highly perishable, it must be refrigerated airtight and can be stored in this manner for about 4 days. It can also be frozen for up to a month. Fresh pastas cook in a fraction of the time necessary for dried pastas. When it comes to saucing pasta, a general rule is to use light sauces for delicate pastas like capelli D'angelo and chunky, heavy sauces for sturdy pastas such as fusilli.See also acini di peppe; agnolotti; anelli; bavettine; bucatini; cannaroni; cannelloni; capellini; cappelletti; cavatappi; cavatelli; coralli; creste di galli; ditali; elbow pasta; fedelini; fettucce; fettuccine; fideos; fischietti; gemelli; gnocchi; lasagna; linguine; lumache; maccheroni; mafalda; magliette; manicotti; margherite; mostaccioli; orecchiette; orzo; pansotti; pappardelle; pastina; penne; perciatelli; pezzoccheri; quadrettini; radiatore; rigatoni; riso; rotini; semi de melone; stelle; tagliarini; tagliatelle; tagliolini; trenette; tripolini; tubetti; vermicelli; ziti.
pasta filata
Italian for "spun paste," pasta filata refers to the stretched-curd cheeses made famous in Italy, such as mozzarella, provolone and caciocavallo. Such cheeses are made using a special technique whereby the curd is given a hot whey bath, then kneaded and stretched to the desired pliable consistency. See also cheese.
pasta machines
There are two basic types of machines that can be used to make homemade pasta the roller type and the extruder type. Roller-type pasta machines come in hand-cranked and electric versions. Both come with several attachments usually one pair of smooth rollers for rolling out the sheets of dough, and two notched pairs (one narrow and one wide) used to cut noodles. With this type of machine, the dough is run between the smooth rollers at increasingly thinner settings until it reaches the desired thickness. The sheets of dough are then fed through either pair of the notched rollers, which cut them into noodles. Some machines have additional attachments, such as crinkle-edge cutters for making lasagne noodles. Extruder pasta machines mix the dough inside the unit, then force it out through special plates with variously shaped perforations. Depending on the perforations, solid or hollow-shaped pastas can be produced. Both types of pasta machines are generally available in gourmet kitchenware stores and the small-appliance section of many department stores.
pasteurize; pasteurization
To kill bacteria by heating milk or other liquids to moderately high temperatures for a short period of time. Milk must be heated to at least 145°F for not less than 30 minutes or at least 161°F for 15 seconds, and then rapidly cooled to 40°F or lower. The process was discovered by the famous French scientist Louis Pasteur while he was researching the cause of beer and wine spoilage. Although pasteurization is used in beer processing and for some wines and fruit juices, the major beneficiary is milk. Pasteurization kills the bacteria in milk that were once responsible for transmitting diseases such as typhoid fever, tuberculosis, scarlet fever, polio and dysentery. lactic acid bacteria, which cause milk to sour, are not destroyed by pasteurization. Neither is the food value of milk greatly diminished by the process. See also homogenize.
pastille
A small, round, hard confection made of sugar, water and various flavorings. In the United States pastilles are usually referred to as drops, as in lemon drops.
pastina
Italian for "tiny dough." Culinarily, this term refers to any of various tiny pasta shapes (such as acini de pepe), generally used in soups. See also pasta.
pastis
1. Similar to pernod, this clear, strong (90 proof), licorice-flavored apéritif is very popular in the south of France. It's usually mixed with water, which turns it whitish and cloudy. 2. Any of various yeast-leavened pastries of southwestern France such as pastis Beranais, which is flavored with brandy and orange-flower water.
pastitsio
A well-known baked Greek casserole dish consisting of pasta (spaghetti or macaroni), ground beef or lamb, grated cheese, tomatoes, seasonings (including cinnamon) and a white (Béchamel) sauce.
pastrami
A highly seasoned beef made from a cut of plate, brisket or round. After the fat is trimmed, the meat's surface is rubbed with salt and a seasoning paste that can include garlic, ground peppercorns, cinnamon, red pepper, cloves, allspice and coriander seeds. The meat is dry-cured, smoked and cooked. Pastrami can be served hot or cold, usually as a sandwich on rye bread. It's widely available in chunks or presliced in most supermarkets.
pastry
1. Any of various unleavened doughs, the basics of which include butter (or other fat), flour and water. Examples include puff pastry, pâte brisée (pie pastry) and pâte sucrée (sweet short pastry). 2. A general term for sweet baked goods such as danish pastries and napoleons.
pastry bag
A cone-shaped bag with two open ends. The small end is pointed and can be fitted with decorative tips of different sizes and designs, while doughs, whipped cream, fillings, etc. are spooned into the large end. When the bag is squeezed, the contents are forced through the tip. Pastry bags have a multitude of uses including decorating cakes, forming pastries or cookies and piping decorative borders. They come in various sizes and can be made of a variety of materials, including nylon and plastic-lined cotton or canvas, polyester and plastic. Pastry bags can be found in gourmet shops, some supermarkets and the kitchenware section of most department stores.
pastry blender
A kitchen implement consisting of 5 or 6 parallel U-shaped, sturdy steel wires, both ends of which are attached to a wooden handle. It's used in making pastry dough to cut cold fat (usually butter) into a flour mixture, evenly distributing the tiny pieces of fat without warming them.
pastry brush
A small brush used for applying glazes to breads, pastries, cookies, etc. either before or after baking. The best all-purpose size has a width of 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Pastry brushes can be made of nylon bristles, sterilized natural bristles or goose feathers. Natural-bristle brushes are considered best because they're softer and hold more liquid. Goose feathers are excellent for egg glazes because they leave a thin, even coating. The harder nylon bristles will last longer but may melt if accidentally touched to a hot surface. Softer bristles are especially desirable for delicate unbaked pastries where harder bristles might leave unwanted marks.
pastry cloth
A large, lightweight canvas cloth on which pastry dough can be rolled out. Rubbing flour down into the fibers makes the pastry cloth an excellent nonstick surface. After use, the cloth must be thoroughly cleaned before storing. Otherwise, any fat residue in the cloth will turn rancid and affect the flavor of future doughs.
pastry wheel
A small utensil consisting of a sharp cutting wheel attached to a handle. Small pastry wheels with plain cutting edges are used to mark and cut rolled-out pastry or cookie dough. Larger, plain-edged wheels are used to cut pizza. Jagging wheels or pastry jaggers have fluted cutting edges that make a decorative design in pastry doughs.
patis
A pungent-flavored sauce made from salted, fermented fish. Patis is used both as a flavoring sauce and condiment. See also bagoong; fish sauce.
patty
1. A small, thin round of ground or finely chopped food such as meat (as with a hamburger patty), fish or vegetables. 2. A round, flat piece of candy, one of the most popular being the peppermint patty.
patty shell
Usually made of puff pastry, this small cup-shaped shell is used to hold creamed dishes of meat, poultry, fish or vegetables. Fresh patty shells are available in bakeries, while frozen unbaked shells can usually be found in supermarkets.
pattypan squash
A round, flattish summer squash with a scalloped edge. Tender young pattypans can be identified by their pale-green skin (which turns white as the squash matures) and small size (3 to 4 inches in diameter). The thin skin, which can be smooth to slightly bumpy, is usually not removed. Pattypan squash can be cooked in the same manner as other summer squash. See also squash.
Paupiette
See "Roulade."
pavé
French for a square or rectangular "paving stone" or "cobblestone." In culinary usage the word refers to: 1. A square or rectangular dessert consisting of several layers of sponge cake filled with buttercream or other filling and coated with frosting; 2. a square-shaped, aspic-coated mousse made of meat, fish or poultry, usually served cold. It can also be made with a sweet mousse.
Pavlova
Hailing from Australia, this famous dessert is named after the Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova. It consists of a crisp meringue base topped with whipped cream and fruit such as strawberries, passion fruit and kiwi. A pavlova is usually served with fruit sauce or additional whipped cream.
pawpaw
Another name for both papaya and papaw.
pea
There are many varieties of pea, all members of the legume family. Some like the english pea (the common garden pea) are grown to be eaten fresh, removed from their pods. Others like the field pea are grown specifically to be used dried. pod peas are those that are eaten pod and all, namely the snow pea and sugar snap pea. See also black-eyed pea; chickpea.
pea bean
The smallest of the dried white beans, the others being navy, great northern and marrow beans (in order of ascending size). Pea beans are very popular in the Northeast and are the first choice for boston baked beans. Some producers and packagers do not differentiate between pea beans and navy beans, so packages identified as white beans may contain both. Pea beans are also used in soups. They require long, slow cooking. See also beans.
Peach
Native to China, this fruit came to Europe (and subsequently to the Americas) via Persia, hence its ancient appellation Persian Apple. Throughout its evolution, the peach has propagated hundreds of varieties that vary greatly in color and flavor. In general, a peach falls into one of two classifications — freestone, in which case the stone or pit falls easily away from the flesh, and clingstone, where the fruit adheres stubbornly to the pit. It's the freestones that are more commonly found in markets, while the firmer-textured clingstones are widely used for commercial purposes.
The peach's velvety skin can range from pink-blushed creamy-white to red-blushed yellow and its flesh from pinkish-white to yellow-gold. Peaches are available from May to October in most regions of the United States. Southern hemisphere imports are frequently found in coastal cities during the winter.
Look for intensely fragrant fruit that gives slightly to palm pressure. Because peaches bruise easily they should be thoroughly perused for soft spots. Avoid those with signs of greening. To ripen underripe peaches, place them in a paper bag, pierce the bag in several places, and set it aside at room temperature for a couple of days. Adding an apple to the bag will speed ripening because apples exude ethylene gas, which speeds the ripening process. Refrigerate ripe peaches in a plastic bag for up to 5 days. Bring to room temperature before eating.
Because of their fuzzy skins, peaches are often peeled before eating. This can be done easily by blanching the peach in boiling water for about 30 seconds, then plunging it into icy-cold water. Canned peaches are available, sliced or in halves, packed either in sugar syrup or water. Frozen peach slices are also available, as are dried peach halves. Peaches contain both vitamins A and C.
peach Melba
A dessert created in the late 1800s by the famous French chef Escoffier for Dame Nellie Melba, a popular Australian opera singer. It's made with two peach halves that have been poached in syrup and cooled. Each peach half is placed hollow side down on top of a scoop of vanilla ice cream, then topped with melba sauce (a raspberry sauce) and sometimes with whipped cream and sliced almonds.
peanut
Though today peanuts are considered a rather common nut, ancient Peruvians held them in such high esteem that they buried pots of peanuts with their mummified dead to nourish them during their long journey to the hereafter. Peanuts are widely grown throughout the southern United States and about half the national crop is used to make peanut butter. At one stage of its growth, the peanut plant looks very much like the common garden pea plant, which is not at all illogical, since the peanut is actually a legume, not a nut. The nuts (or seeds) have a papery brown skin and are contained in a thin, netted, tan-colored pod. Peanuts are also called groundnuts (as well as earth nuts and, in the South, goobers or goober peas ) because, after flowering, the plant bends down to the earth and buries its pods in the ground. Though there are several varieties of peanut, the two most popular are the Virginia and the Spanish peanut. The Virginia peanut is larger and more oval in shape than the smaller, rounder Spanish peanut. Peanuts are sold unshelled and shelled. The former should have clean, unbroken shells and should not rattle when shaken. Shelled peanuts, often available in vacuum-sealed jars or cans, are usually roasted and sometimes salted. Refrigerate unshelled peanuts tightly wrapped for up to 6 months. Vacuum-packed shelled peanuts can be stored unopened at room temperature for up to a year. Once opened, shelled peanuts should be refrigerated airtight and used within 3 months. Peanuts are high in fat and rich in protein. The two most popular peanut by-products are peanut butter and peanut oil.
peanut butter
Developed in 1890 and promoted as a health food at the 1904 St. Louis World's Fair, peanut butter is a blend of ground shelled peanuts, vegetable oil (often hydrogenated) and usually a small amount of salt. Some contain sugar and additives to improve creaminess and prevent the oil from separating. Natural peanut butter uses only peanuts and oil, usually peanut oil. Peanut butter is sold in two forms smooth or chunky, which contains bits of peanut. It can be easily made at home in a blender or food processor. Natural peanut butter must be refrigerated after opening and can be stored in this manner up to 6 months. Most other commercial peanut butters can be stored at room temperature for up to 6 months. Peanut butter is high in fat and contains fair amounts of iron, niacin and protein. See also peanut.
peanut oil
A clear oil pressed from peanuts; it is used for salads and, because it has a high smoke point, especially prized for frying. Most American peanut oils are mild-flavored, whereas Chinese peanut oils have a distinctive peanut flavor. Peanut oil is about 50 percent monounsaturated and 30 percent polyunsaturated. If stored in a cool, dark place it will keep indefinitely. See also fats and oils.
pear
There are over 5,000 varieties of pears grown throughout the world in temperate climates. France is known for its superior pears and in the United States most of the crop comes from California, Oregon and Washington. Mother Nature protected the easily bruised pear by making it better when picked while still hard. Unlike most fruit, it improves in both texture and flavor after it's picked. Pears range in shape from spherical to bell-shaped and in color from celadon green to golden yellow to tawny red. Ripe pears are juicy and, depending on the variety, can range in flavor from spicy to sweet to tart-sweet. Pears are in season from late July to early spring, depending on the variety. Choose those that are fragrant and free of blemishes and soft spots. Store at room temperature until ripe; refrigerate ripe fruit. It's not necessary to peel pears before using, but, if they are peeled, they should be dipped in acidulated water to prevent the flesh from browning. For cooking, choose fruit that is still quite firm. Pears are also available dried as well as canned in either water, sugar syrup or their natural juice. They contain small amounts of phosphorus and vitamin A. See also anjou; asian; bartlett; bosc; comice; seckel.
pecan
This native American nut is a member of the hickory family. It has a fat content of over 70 percent... more than any other nut. Pecan trees prefer temperate climates and are widely grown in Georgia, Oklahoma and Texas, and as far north as Virginia. The nut's smooth, tan shell averages about 1 inch in length and, though hard, is relatively thin. The buttery-rich kernel is golden-brown on the outside and beige inside. Chopped or halved shelled pecans are available year-round in cellophane packages, cans and jars. Though unshelled pecans are also available throughout the year, their peak season is during the autumn months. Choose unshelled pecans by their clean, unblemished, uncracked shells. When shaken, the kernel should not rattle. Store tightly wrapped in a cool, dry place for up to 6 months. Refrigerate shelled pecans in an airtight container for up to 3 months, or freeze up to 6 months. Care must be taken when storing pecans because their high fat content invites rancidity. Pecans are favorites for eating out of hand, as well as for using in a variety of sweet and savory dishes. Probably the most well-known pecan dessert is the deliciously rich Southern pecan pie, usually dolloped generously with whipped cream. See also nuts.
pecorino cheese
In Italy, cheese made from sheep's milk is known as pecorino. Most of these cheeses are aged and classified as grana (hard, granular and sharply flavored); however, the young, unaged Ricotta pecorino is soft, white and mild in flavor. Aged pecorinos range in color from white to pale yellow and have a sharp, pungent flavor. The best known of this genre is Pecorino Romano, which comes in large cylinders with a hard yellow rind and yellowish-white interior. Other notable pecorinos are Sardo, Siciliano and Toscano. These hard, dry cheeses are good for grating and are used mainly in cooking. They can be used in any recipe that calls for parmesan cheese, especially if a sharper flavor is desired. See also cheese.
pectin
Present in various ripe fruits and vegetables, this natural, water-soluble substance is used for its thickening properties in the preparation of jams, jellies and preserves. The gelatinlike pectin is added to fruits that don't have enough natural pectin to jell by themselves. If pectin isn't used, the alternative is to continue cooking the mixture until it's reduced to the desired consistency. Pectin only works properly when mixed with the correct balance of sugar and acid. It's available in two forms liquid (usually made from apples) and dry (from citrus fruits or apples).
peel
n. 1. The rind or skin of a fruit or vegetable, such as a tomato or potato peel. 2. A flat, smooth, shovellike tool used to slide pizzas and yeast breads onto a baking stone or baking sheet in an oven. Also called a pizza peel and baker's peel, this implement is made of hardwood and can usually be found in gourmet specialty shops. peel v. To use a knife or vegetable peeler to remove the rind or skin from a fruit or vegetable, as to peel a potato.
Peking duck
duck.
pekoe tea
Because similar-sized tea leaves brew at the same speed (larger, coarser leaves take longer), tea leaves are graded and sorted by size. Orange pekoe is the grade for the smallest leaves, which are picked from the top of the plant. "Pekoe" describes medium-size, slightly coarser tea leaves. See also tea.
pemmican
Pulverized dried meat or fish mixed with hot fat and dried berries and/or other dried fruit into a thick paste, and then formed into loafs or small cakes. Some regional variations of pemmican use parched corn instead of dried meat. This food originated with North American Indians as a nutritious, spoilage-resistant food good for traveling. Pemmican, which can be eaten out of hand or added to hot water to make a soup, was adopted by early American pioneers, hunters and others on the move.
penne
Large, straight tubes of macaroni cut on the diagonal. See also pasta.
penuche; panocha; penuchi
A creamy, fudgelike candy made with brown sugar, butter, milk or cream and vanilla. Chopped nuts are sometimes added. The mixture is heated to the soft-ball stage, whipped until thick and either dropped onto a cookie sheet or poured into a pan and allowed to set. The name is derived from the Mexican word for "raw sugar" or "brown sugar."
peperonata
An Italian mixture of sweet peppers, tomatoes, onions and garlic cooked in olive oil. It's served hot as a condiment with meats or cold as an antipasto.
pepino
This fragrant fruit has its origins in Peru, though it's now grown in New Zealand, California and other subtropical and temperate climates. The exotic-looking pepino has a smooth, glossy, golden skin streaked with violet. It can range in size anywhere from that of a plum to that of a large papaya. The skin, seeds and flesh are all edible.The perfumy yellow-gold flesh is juicy and lightly sweet, with a mild cantaloupe flavor. Pepinos are available from late fall to midspring in specialty produce markets and some supermarkets that carry exotic produce. Choose those that are fragrant and give slightly to palm pressure. They can be ripened at room temperature, if necessary. Judge the ripeness by the deep-golden background color. Pepinos should be peeled before using for out-of-hand eating, in fruit salads or as an accompaniment or garnish to meats or vegetables. They're also called mellowfruit, pepino melon and treemelon.
Pepitas
Edible pumpkin seeds.
pepper mill
A hand-held grinder designed for crushing dry peppercorns. Pepper mills are made from a variety of materials including plastic, wood and ceramic. The internal grinding mechanism is generally made of stainless steel. Good pepper mills can be adjusted to produce fine or coarse grinds. Freshly ground pepper has a sharper, more lively flavor than the preground variety.
pepper pot; pepperpot
1. A thick soup of tripe, meat, vegetables, pepper and other seasonings. It's also called Philadelphia pepper pot. The soup is said to have been created during the desperate winter of 1777-1778, when Washington's army was down to tripe, peppercorns and various scraps of other food. The cook devised this tasty dish and named it in honor of his hometown, Philadelphia. 2. A West Indian stew containing cassareep, meat or fish, vegetables, chiles, cayenne pepper and other seasonings.
pepper steak
1. A beefsteak generously sprinkled with coarsely ground black pepper, sautéed in butter and served with a sauce made from pan drippings, stock, wine and cream. Pepper steak is sometimes flamed with brandy or cognac. In French it's called steak au poivre. 2. A Chinese stir-fry dish consisting of strips of steak, green pepper and onion cooked with soy sauce and other seasonings.
peppercorn
Most cooks today don't appreciate the plentiful and inexpensive supply of a spice that was once so valuable and rare it was sometimes used as currency. Its merit was so high that many of the European sailing expeditions during the 15th century were undertaken with the main purpose of finding alternate trade routes to the Far East, the primary source of the prized peppercorn and other spices. Pepper in one form or other is used around the world to enhance the flavor of both savory and sweet dishes. Because it stimulates gastric juices, it delivers a digestive bonus as well. The world's most popular spice is a berry that grows in grapelike clusters on the pepper plant (Piper nigrum ), a climbing vine native to India and Indonesia. The berry is processed to produce three basic types of peppercorn black, white and green. The most common is the black peppercorn, which is picked when the berry is not quite ripe, then dried until it shrivels and the skin turns dark brown to black. It's the strongest flavored of the three slightly hot with a hint of sweetness. Among the best black peppers are the Tellicherry and the Lampong. The less pungent white peppercorn has been allowed to ripen, after which the skin is removed and the berry is dried. The result is a smaller, smoother-skinned, light-tan berry with a milder flavor. White pepper is used to a great extent for appearance, usually in light-colored sauces or foods where dark specks of black pepper would stand out. The green peppercorn is the soft, underripe berry that's usually preserved in brine. It has a fresh flavor that's less pungent than the berry in its other forms. Black and white peppercorns are available whole, cracked and coarsely or finely ground. Whole peppercorns freshly ground with a pepper mill deliver more flavor than does
pepperoncini
Also called Tuscan peppers, these thin, 2- to 3-inch-long chiles have a bright red, wrinkled skin. They have a slightly sweet flavor that can range from medium to medium-hot. Pepperoncini are most often sold pickled and used as part of an antipasto.
pepperoni; peperoni
An Italian salami made of beef highly seasoned with black and red pepper. This slender, firm, air-dried sausage is ready to eat, often sliced very thin and used as an appetizer. It can also be used to add flavor to many cooked dishes, as those who love pepperoni pizza will attest. See also sausage.
pequín chile
These oval-shape, tiny (about 1/2-inch-long) dried chiles are a beautiful red-orange color. Their flavor is slightly sweet and smoky and their heat quotient fiery. The pequín is also called chile pequeño. Its wild form is known as tepín or chiltepín. See also chile.
perch
Any of various spiny-finned freshwater fish found in North America and Europe. In the United States the best known is the yellow perch, found mainly in the East and Midwest. In France, the common or river perch is highly favored. These similar-looking fish have olive-green backs blending to yellow on the sides, dark vertical bands and reddish-orange fins. They have a mild, delicate flavor and firm flesh with a low fat content. Related to the true perch are the pike perch (so called because their bodies resemble the pike), the best known of which are the walleyed pike and the sauger or sand pike. There are several saltwater fish that are incorrectly called perch including the white perch (really a member of the bass family) and the ocean perch (a member of the rockfish family). Perch range in size from 1/2 to 3 pounds. They're available fresh and frozen, whole and filleted. Small perch are usually best broiled or sautéed. Larger ones can be prepared in a variety of ways including poaching, steaming, baking and in soups and stews. See also fish.
perciatelli
Thin, hollow pasta about twice as thick as spaghetti; similar to bucatini.
Pernod
A yellowish, licorice-flavored liqueur similar to absinthe. Pernod is very popular in France and is usually mixed with water, which turns it whitish and cloudy.
Persian melon
A large green muskmelon with a delicate netting on the rind and a rich salmon-colored flesh. Persian melons weigh around 5 pounds (larger than a cantaloupe) and have a delicious, sweet flavor. They're available from July through October, with a peak in the late summer. Choose Persian melons that are heavy for their size; the rind should be pale green with a delicate netting. Avoid melons with soft spots. Store unripe Persian melons at room temperature, ripe melons in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Just before serving, cut melon in half and remove the seeds. See also melon.
Persillade
French for parsley, also refers to a mixture of parsley and garlic that is often sprinkled on a dish as flavoring or garnish towards the end of its preparation.
persimmon
The most widely available persimmon in the United States is the Hachiya, also called Japanese persimmon. It's large (up to 3 inches in diameter) and round, with a slightly elongated, pointed base. The Fuyu persimmon is smaller and more tomato-shaped. When ripe, both have a red-orange skin and flesh. The Hachiya is quite soft when completely ripe and has a smooth, creamy texture and a tangy-sweet flavor. If eaten even slightly underripe, it will pucker the mouth with an incredible astringency. The Fuyu, however, is still firm when ripe and is not at all astringent.
Persimmons are available from October to February. Choose fruit that is plump and soft but not mushy (the Fuyu should be quite firm). The skin should be smooth, glossy and brightly colored. Persimmons that are not quite ripe can be ripened at room temperature. Store ripe fruit in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Persimmons can be used in baked goods, puddings and other desserts, as well as eaten out of hand. They contain a good amount of vitamin A and some vitamin C.
Pesto
An Italian sauce traditionally made with basil, olive oil, garlic, pine nuts and Romano and Parmesan cheeses.
petit déjeuner
French for "breakfast."
petit four
1. Any of various bite-size iced and elaborately decorated cakes. Petits fours can be made with any flavor cake, though white and chocolate are the most common. 2. The French also use this term to describe small, fancy cookies.
petit pain
French for a bread roll. See also pain.
Petit Suisse
A rich, soft French cheese that, because it contains between 60 and 75 percent milk fat, ranks between a double- and triple-cream cheese. It's the consistency of very soft cream cheese and has a delicate, sweetly tangy flavor. Petit Suisse is usually sold in small cylinders or flat squares. It's wonderful served as an appetizer with crackers or after dinner with fruit. The most popular brand of Petit Suisse is gervais, named after the well-known French cheesemaker Jules Gervais. See also cheese.
petite marmite
A type of pot-au-feu served in its own cooking vessel. Petite marmite is usually made from beef, chicken, marrow bones and various vegetables including cabbage. This mélange is slowly cooked in water, producing a rich broth that's served with grated cheese as the first course accompanied by the bone marrow, which is spread on toast. The meat and vegetables are then served as the main course.
Petite Sirah; Petite Syrah
Grown mainly in California, this red wine grape produces a big, robust and peppery wine. Although not as popular as California's cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir or zinfandel, Petite Sirah has a following among those who like big, full-bodied wines. The Petite Sirah grape is also used as a blending grape to give a little more zest and complexity to other red wines. This varietal is also spelled Petit Syrah and Petit Sirah.
petits pois
The French term for "small young green peas." See also english pea.
petrale sole
Not a true sole, but rather a flounder that is found in the Pacific Ocean from Alaska to Mexico. It's highly prized for its excellent flavor and fine-textured, lowfat flesh. Those found in the market generally weigh from 1 to 5 pounds. They can be purchased fresh and frozen, whole or in fillets. Petrale sole can be prepared in almost any manner including sautéing, broiling, grilling and poaching. See also fish; flatfish.
pezzoccheri
Thick buckwheat noodles. See also pasta.
pfeffernüesse
Traditionally served at Christmastime, pfeffernüesse (German for "peppernuts") are very popular in many European countries. Scandinavians call the cookies pepperkaker in Norway, pepparnotter in Sweden and pebernodder in Denmark. These tiny ball-shaped cookies are full of spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and the ingredient for which they're named black pepper.
pheasant
A medium-sized game bird, originally from Asia but now found in Europe and North America. As with many birds, the male has a more brilliant plumage than the female and is larger, weighing 2 1/2 to 5 pounds compared to the female's 3-pound average. The female's flesh is plumper, juicier and more tender. Very young cocks and hens may be roasted as is but older pheasants should be barded or cooked with moist heat because their flesh is lean and dry. Farm-raised pheasants do not have the same flavor as the wild birds. Pheasants are sometimes found dressed and frozen in specialty meat markets, usually by special order.
phyllo
Literally translated, the Greek word phyllo means "leaf." Culinarily, it refers to tissue-thin layers of pastry dough used in various Greek and Near Eastern sweet and savory preparations, the best known being baklava and spanakopita. Phyllo (also spelled filo ) is very similar to strudel dough. Packaged fresh and frozen phyllo dough is readily available the former in Greek markets, the latter in supermarkets. Unopened, phyllo can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. Once opened, use within 2 to 3 days. Frozen phyllo can be stored for up to 1 year. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator. Refreezing phyllo will make it brittle.
piña colada
Literally translated, this Spanish phrase means "strained pineapple." A piña colada is a tropically flavored drink made with coconut cream, pineapple juice and rum served over ice and usually garnished with a pineapple chunk. The piña-colada (pineapple-coconut) flavor has also become popular for many foods such as ice cream, candy, cakes, etc.
piñon
Spanish for "pine nut."
picadillo
This dish, a favorite in many Spanish-speaking countries, consists of ground beef and/or veal plus tomatoes, garlic, onions and whatever else the regional version dictates. In Cuba it's served with rice and black beans. In Mexico, picadillo is used as a stuffing for various dishes.
piccalilli
A highly seasoned pickled vegetable relish. The vegetables used vary from recipe to recipe and can include tomatoes, sweet peppers, onions, zucchini, cucumber, cauliflower, beans, etc.
pickle
n. Food that has been preserved in a seasoned brine or vinegar mixture. Among the more popular foods used for pickling are cucumbers, pearl onions, cauliflower, baby corn, watermelon rind, and herring. Pickles can be sour, sweet, hot or variously flavored, such as with dill for the popular dill pickle. pickle v. To preserve food in a vinegar mixture or brine.
pickling spices
A spice blend used in mixtures to pickle various foods, as well as to season certain dishes. The blend can differ greatly according to the manufacturer, and the ingredients (usually whole or in coarse pieces) can include allspice, bay leaves, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, ginger, mustard seeds and peppercorns. Prepackaged pickling spice mixes are sold in most supermarkets.
Pico de gallo
A Spanish condiment featuring chopped peppers, cucumbers, onions, jicama, jalapeño and seasonings.
pie
A sweet or savory dish made with a crust and filling (such as fruit, pudding, meat or vegetable). Pies can have bottom crusts only, or top and bottom crusts or, as with deep-dish pies, only a top crust. Sweet pies are generally served as dessert and savory pies as the main course or appetizer. Crusts can be made of a variety of mixtures including short crust pastry, puff pastry, cookie crumbs, meringue and even, as with shepherd'S pie, mashed potatoes. See also tart.
pie weights
Small pelletlike metal or ceramic weights used when baking an unfilled pie or tart crust to keep it from shrinking. The weights (from 1 to 2 cups) are poured into a foil-lined unbaked pie crust. The shell is then partially baked, the foil and weights lifted out, and then the baking is finished. Pie weights can be found in gourmet shops. See also bake blind.
Pierogi
Crescent-shaped Russian dumplings.
pigeon pea
Native to Africa, this tiny legume is also called Congo pea and no-eyed pea. In the United States it's particularly popular in southern states where it grows in long, twisted fuzzy pods. The peas are about the size of the standard garden pea and are usually a grayish-yellow color. Pigeon peas can be eaten raw but are most often dried and split. They're available dried in many supermarkets and can often be found fresh, frozen and canned in the regions where they're grown, as well as Latin American and Indian markets. Pigeon peas are cooked like dried beans. See also beans.
pignoli; pignon
The Italian and French words respectively for "pine nut."
pigs in blankets
A term that is generally used to describe a sausage with an outside covering (blanket). The most common example is a small cocktail sausage wrapped in pie dough and baked, then served as an appetizer. Pigs in blankets can also refer to breakfast sausages wrapped in pancakes or any other similar style of food. See also corn dog; hot dog; frankfurter.
pike
A family of freshwater fish that includes the pike, pickerel and muskellunge. They all have long bodies, large mouths and ferocious-looking teeth. Pickerel are the smallest generally weighing 2 to 3 pounds. Pike range from 4 to 10 pounds and the muskellunge (or muskie ) averages from 10 to 30 pounds but can reach up to 60 pounds and 6 feet in length. The walleyed pike is not a pike but rather a perch. The pike family of fish is known for its lean, firm, lowfat (but bony) flesh. Although fished mainly for sport in the United States, they are imported from Canada and available fresh and frozen, either whole, filleted or in steaks. Pike can be cooked in almost any manner available. It's the fish traditionally used in France's fish quenelles, as well as the Jewish gefilte fish. See also fish.
pilaf
This rice- or bulghur-based dish (also called pilau ) originated in the Near East and always begins by first browning the rice in butter or oil before cooking it in stock. Pilafs can be variously seasoned and usually contain other ingredients such as chopped cooked vegetables, meats, fish or poultry. In India they're highly spiced with curry. Pilaf can be served as a side dish or main dish.
Pilaf, Pilau
A seasoned rice or other grain dish in which the rice is sautéed before the liquid and other ingredients are added.
pilchard
A small, high-fat saltwater fish found in abundance off the European Atlantic coast from Scandinavia to Portugal. Though Europeans can buy fresh pilchard from July to December, it's usually canned in oil or tomato sauce like sardines. See also fish.
Pilsner glass
A footed, tall glass that tapers from the mouth to the base. It's generally used to serve beer.
Pilsner; Pilsener
Originally this term referred to a very fine beer brewed in Pilsen, in the Czech Republic. Today, however, it more commonly refers to any pale, light lager beer.
pimiento; pimento
1. A large, red, heart-shaped sweet pepper that measures 3 to 4 inches long and 2 to 3 inches wide. The flesh of the pimiento (the Spanish word for "pepper") is sweet, succulent and more aromatic than that of the red bell pepper. Fresh pimientos may be found from late summer to early fall in specialty produce markets and some supermakets. Canned and bottled pimientos (halves, strips or pieces) are available year-round. Pimientos are the familiar red stuffing found in green olives. Much of the pimiento crop is used for paprika. 2. Pimento is the name of the tree from which allspice comes.
pinch
A measuring term referring to the amount of a dry ingredient (such as salt or pepper) that can be held between the tips of the thumb and forefinger. It's equivalent to approximately 1/16 teaspoon. See also dash.
pine nut
Also called Indian nut, piñon, pignoli and pignolia this high-fat nut comes from several varieties of pine trees. The nuts are actually inside the pine cone, which generally must be heated to facilitate their removal. This labor-intensive process is what makes these nuts so expensive. Pine nuts grow in China, Italy, Mexico, North Africa and the southwestern United States. There are two main varieties. Both have a thin shell with an ivory-colored nutmeat that averages about 1/2 inch in length. The Mediterranean or Italian pine nut is from the stone pine. It's torpedo-shaped, has a light, delicate flavor and is the more expensive of the two. The stronger-flavored Chinese pine nut is shaped like a squat triangle. Its pungent pine flavor can easily overpower some foods. Pine nuts can be found in bulk in nut shops and health-food stores, and packaged in many supermarkets. The Chinese variety will more likely be available in Asian markets. Because of their high fat content, pine nuts turn rancid quickly. They should be stored airtight in the refrigerator for up to 3 months, frozen for up to 9 months. Pine nuts can be used in a variety of sweet and savory dishes and are well known for their flavorful addition to the classic Italian pesto. See also nuts.
pineapple
This tropical beauty received its appellation from the English because of its resemblance to the pine cone. Most other Europeans call it ananas derived from the Paraguayan nana meaning "excellent (or exquisite) fruit." The pineapple is native to Central and South America, where symbolic representations of its form were found in pre-Incan ruins. Hawaii, now this fruit's leading producer, didn't see its first pineapple until the late 1700s. For centuries the pineapple (in the form of carved wood, stone sculptures and the like) has been used to symbolize hospitality. The two major varieties found commercially in the United States are the Cayenne (from Hawaii) and the Red Spanish (mainly from Florida and Puerto Rico). The Cayenne pineapple, the longer and more cylindrical of the two, has a golden-yellow skin and long, swordlike leaves sprouting from a single tuft. The Red Spanish pineapple is squatter in shape, has a reddish golden-brown skin and leaves that radiate from several tufts. Mexico grows a third variety called the Sugar Loaf, a large, exquisitely flavored specimen whose skin is still green when ripe. Because it doesn't ship well, the Sugar Loaf is rarely imported into the United States. Pineapples can weigh up to 20 pounds, though the average size marketed ranges between 2 and 5 pounds. All varieties have bumpy diamond-patterned skins. Though there are slight flavor variations depending on the variety, all ripe pineapple is exceedingly juicy and has a tangy sweet-tart flavor. Fresh pineapple is available year-round with a peak season from March to July. This is one fruit that must be picked ripe because the starch will not convert to sugar once it's off the plant. Choose pineapples that are slightly soft to the touch with a full, strong color (depending on the variety) and no sign of greening. The leaves should be crisp and green with no yellow or brown tips. Overripe pineapples show their advanced state with soft or dark areas on the skin. Refrigerate fresh pineapple tightly wrapped for up to 3 days. If it's slightly underripe, keeping it at room temperature for several days will reduce its acidity (though it won't increase its sweetness). Pineapple is available canned (in its own juice or in sugar syrup), crushed or in chunks, slices or tidbits. It can also be found frozen and candied. Pineapple can be used in a variety of dishes including fresh fruit desserts and salads, and as a garnish for vegetables and meats. It's also delicious cooked either simply sautéed or broiled, or in a dish like the famous pineapple upside-down cake. Fresh and frozen pineapple cannot be used in gelatin mixtures because of a natural enzyme that prevents them from setting (canned pineapple doesn't cause a problem). Pineapples are a fair source of vitamins A and C.
pink bean
A smooth, reddish-brown dried bean that is very popular in the western United States It's interchangeable with the pinto bean in any dish. Pink beans are used to make refried beans and chili con carne. They're available in dried form year-round in most supermarkets. See also beans.
pink lady
A cocktail consisting of gin, lemon or lime juice, grenadine, egg white and cream. It's shaken with ice, then strained into a shallow, stemmed cocktail glass. See also white lady.
pink peppercorn
Pink peppercorns are not true peppercorns but actually the dried berries from the Baies rose plant. They're cultivated in Madagascar and imported via France, hence their exorbitant price. These rose-hued berries are pungent and slightly sweet. Pink peppercorns can be found in gourmet stores either freeze-dried or packed in brine or water. Once opened, refrigerate water-packed berries for about a week, those packed in brine for 3 to 4 weeks. Freeze-dried pink peppercorns can be stored in a cool, dark place for about 6 months. Pink peppercorns are used as colorful, flavorful additions to a variety of sauces and meat and fish dishes. Though there was once widespread controversy regarding their safety, pink peppercorns have now been approved by the Food and Drug Administration. They should not, however, be confused with pink berries (also referred to as peppercorns) from an ornamental plant in Florida and California that can cause severe allergic reactions if eaten. See also peppercorn.
Pinot Blanc
A variety of white grape that is used in some white alstian wines and bottled as a varietal by a few California wineries. Pinot Blanc wine is crisp and dry but has less intensity and flavor than chardonnay. Its price is also considerably lower. Pinot Blanc goes well with chicken and fish.
Pinot Chardonnay
Another name used by some wineries for their chardonnay wines.
Pinot Noir
The red grape that produces the spicy, rich, complex French red burgundies as well as Pinot Noirs from California, Oregon and Washington. It's also important in making French champagnes and American sparkling wines. French Burgundy wines like Romanée-Conti and Chambertin are world renowned for being elegant, soft and smooth. They also command tremendous prices. The American Pinot Noirs are less expensive and some particularly those from California and Oregon are rapidly gaining in excellence and popularity. Pinot Noirs go well with almost any food.
pinto bean
The pinto (Spanish for "painted") bean has streaks of reddish-brown on a background of pale pink. The beans are grown in the United States Southwest and are common in most Spanish-speaking countries, where they're often served with rice or used in soups and stews. The pinto can be used interchangeably with the pink bean, which is lighter in color prior to cooking but looks the same afterwards. Both the pinto and pink bean are commonly used in the preparation of refried beans and chili con carne. Pinto beans are available in dried form year-round. They are also called red Mexican beans. See also beans.
pipérade
This dish from the Basque region of France has many versions but is always based on tomatoes and sweet green peppers cooked in olive oil. Additions can include onions, garlic, cured or smoked meats or other vegetables and quite often lightly beaten egg. Depending on how hearty it is, pipérade can be served as a side dish or main dish.
Piperade
A Basque dish based on tomatoes and sweet green peppers.
pips
Another term for the small seeds found in fruits such as grapes, oranges and apples.
piquante sauce
A spicy brown sauce made with shallots, white wine, vinegar, gherkins, parsley and various herbs and seasonings. It's served with sliced meats such as tongue and beef.
pique-nique; pique-niquer
French for the noun and verb form (respectively) of "picnic."
piroshki
A small Russian turnover consisting of a pastry wrapping and various fillings such as meat, fish, cheese and mushrooms. Piroshki, which can be baked or fried, are served as hors D'oeuvres or as accompaniments to soups or salads. Pirogi are larger versions of piroshki, and are served as the entrée.
pisco
A potent (90 proof) Peruvian grape brandy that's aged in paraffin-lined containers rather than oak to prevent it from absorbing either color of flavor from the wood.
pissaladiére
A flaky pizzalike tart topped with onions, anchovies, black olives and sometimes tomatoes. Pissaladiére is a specialty of Nice, in southern France.
pistachio nut
Cultivated in California, Italy, Turkey and Iran, the pistachio has a hard, tan shell that encloses a pale green nut. The shells of some pistachios are colored red (with vegetable dye), while others have been blanched until white. The California Pistachio Commission states that these nuts are dyed for two reasons: because many people find that form familiar; and so they're easier to spot in a bowl of mixed nuts. Pistachios are available year-round shelled and unshelled, either raw or roasted and salted or not. When buying unshelled pistachios make sure the shells are partially open not only because it's a great help in getting the nutmeat out, but because closed shells mean the nutmeat is immature. Pistachio nuts have a delicate, subtle flavor that is wonderful either for eating out of hand or for flavoring both sweet and savory dishes. Pistachio nuts are rich in calcium, thiamine, phosphorus, iron and Vitamin A. See also nuts.
pisto
A Spanish vegetable dish originally from La Mancha, south of Madrid. Pisto can include chopped tomatoes, sweet red or green peppers, onions, garlic, mushrooms, eggplant and sundry other vegetables all cooked together. Sometimes cured or other meat is added. This Spanish favorite can be eaten hot or cold, served as a main course, side dish or appetizer.
Pistou
The French version of pesto, a mixture of basil, garlic and olive oil.
pit
v. To remove the stone or seed of a fruit. This is most often done by using a sharp knife to cut it loose or a specialized utensil (known as a pitter) to push it out. pit n. The stone or seed of a fruit such as a cherry, peach, apricot or plum.
pita
Also called pocket bread, this Middle Eastern flat bread can be made of white or whole-wheat flour. Each pita round splits horizontally to form a pocket into which a wide variety of ingredients can be stuffed to make a sandwich. Throughout the Middle East, pitas are served with meals or cut into wedges and used as dippers for dishes such as baba ghanoush and hummus. Pita bread is available in Middle Eastern markets and in most supermarkets.
pith
The soft, white, somewhat bitter, spongy layer that lies between the outer peel and the flesh of a citrus fruit.
pithiviers
Taking its name from the French town of Pithiviers, this classic French "cake" is composed of an almond cream (frangipane) encased between two puff pastry rounds.
pitter, olive or cherry
A fairly simple tool consisting of two attached hinged handles, one with a ring at the end, the other with a blunt prong. The olive or cherry is placed in the ring and the handles are squeezed together, forcing the prong through the fruit and pushing the pit out through the hole in the ring. Pitters (also called stoners ) come in various designs and sizes. They can be found in gourmet shops and in the kitchenware section of many department stores.
pizza
Made popular in the United States by soldiers who brought the idea back from Italy at the end of World War ii, pizza is thought to have evolved from early Egyptian flat bread. Literally translated, the word means "pie," but it has come to represent a round savory tart made with a crisp yeast dough covered with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese and other ingredients such as peppers, onions, Italian sausage, mushrooms, anchovies and pepperoni. Variations such as deep-dish pizza, with its thick breadlike crust, have been popular over the years. Many menus now feature pizzas sans tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. They're topped instead with ingredients such as sun-dried tomatoes, duck sausage, fresh basil, smoked salmon, goat cheese or wild mushrooms.
pizza pan
A round metal sheet with a shallow, rounded raised rim, used for baking pizza. Some pans are perforated with hundreds of small holes that allow moisture to escape, which helps the dough brown evenly. Pizza pans can be found in gourmet shops and in the kitchenware section of many department stores.
plaice
The American plaice, also called Canadian plaice and dab, is a member of the flounder family, which is found on both sides of the Atlantic. The fish can be various shades of reddish- to gray-brown and has a lowfat, fine-textured flesh with a mild, sweet flavor. The American plaice can get as large as 12 pounds but is usually marketed in the 2- to 3-pound range. It's available fresh and frozen, either whole or filleted. The European plaice, a similar fish but with different coloring, is found in the North Sea and is widely popular in Europe. Both the American and European plaice are suitable for almost any cooking method. See also fish; flatfish.
plank; planking
A cooking method handed down by American Indians whereby meat or fish is cooked usually by baking or broiling on a wooden board. Planking imparts a soupçon of the wood's flavor to the food. Food referred to as "planked" has been cooked in this manner.
plastic wrap
The ability of this versatile food wrap to cling to both food and containers makes it superior for forming an airtight seal. There are many varieties of plastic wrap, some of which are thicker, cling better and have better moisture-vapor retention than others. Most plastic wraps are made of polyethylene, whose components are not absorbed by foods to any degree. The wrap that is considered to have the best cling and moisture retention is made of polyvinylidene chloride, another leading brand is made of polyvinyl chloride (pvc ). For added flexibility, both require the addition of plasticizers that, if in direct extended contact with food, can be absorbed. However, the usda has approved their use with food and, though little is known of the effects of human ingestion of plasticizers over a prolonged period of time, there is no current evidence that they are harmful. There is some concern, however, that wraps containing plasticizers can transfer their components to food during lengthy heating in a microwave oven.
pleurotte
The French name for the oyster mushroom.
plover
A small game bird which cannot be hunted legally in the United States. Plovers are now farm-raised, however, and are also imported from Europe. They're available on a limited basis in specialty produce markets. The golden plover is considered superior and has a delicate and delicious meat. Plover is usually roasted.
plum
There are hundreds of plum varieties cultivated throughout the world. All grow in clusters, have smooth, deeply colored skin and a center pit. Plums can range in shape from oval to round and in size from 1 to 3 inches in diameter. Their color can be yellow, green, red, purple, indigo blue and almost anything in between. The pale silvery-gray, filmy-looking coating on a plum's skin is natural and doesn't affect quality. Fresh plums are available from May to late October. Choose firm plums that give slightly to palm pressure. Avoid those with skin blemishes such as cracks, soft spots or brown discolorations, the latter indicating sunburn. Very firm plums may be stored at room temperature until slightly soft. Refrigerate ripe plums in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. Some plums are grown specifically to be dried as prunes. The majority, however, are enjoyed fresh for out-of-hand eating or for use in a wide variety of sweet and savory preparations. Also available are canned plums, packed in either water or sugar syrup. Plums contain a fair amount of vitamin A and potassium.
plum pudding
The name of this specialty comes from the fact that it originally contained plums, which it no longer does. Instead, this traditional Christmas dessert is made with suet, dried currants, raisins, almonds and spices. It's either steamed or boiled and is often served warm, flamed with brandy or rum, and accompanied by hard sauce.
plum sauce
Also called duck sauce, this thick, sweet-and-sour condiment is made with plums, apricots, sugar and seasonings. Plum sauce is most often served with duck or spareribs.
plump, to
To soak dried fruit (such as raisins) in liquid until the fruit softens and swells slightly from absorbing some of the liquid.
poach
To cook food gently in liquid just below the boiling point when the liquid's surface is beginning to show some quivering movement. The amount and temperature of the liquid used depends on the food being poached. Meats and poultry are usually simmered in stock, fish in court-bouillon and eggs in lightly salted water, often with a little vinegar added. Fruit is often poached in a light sugar syrup. Poaching produces a delicate flavor in foods, while imparting some of the liquid's flavor to the ingredient being poached.
poblano chile
A dark (sometimes almost black) green chile with a rich flavor that varies from mild to snappy. The darkest poblanos have the richest flavor. This chile is about 2 1/2 to 3 inches wide and 4 to 5 inches long, tapering from top to bottom in a triangular shape. The very best poblanos are found in central Mexico, though they are now also grown in the U.S. Southwest. Fresh poblanos can be found in Mexican markets and in many supermarkets. Their peak season is summer and early fall. They're also available canned. Ripe poblanos turn a reddish-brown color and are sweeter than the green. In their dried state they're known as ancho or mulato chiles. Poblanos can be used in a variety of dishes, but are perhaps best known as the chile of choice for chiles rellenos.
pod
The natural outer covering that houses the seeds of legumes like beans, lentils, peas and soybeans. The pods of many legumes are too tough to be eaten and must be removed (shelled), whereas some like the snow pea have very tender pods that are deliciously edible.
pod peas
Peas that are completely edible, including the pod. Examples include snow peas and sugar snap peas. See also pea.
poha
The Hawaiian name for cape gooseberry.
poi
This native Hawaiian dish is definitely an acquired taste. It's made from cooked taro root that is pounded to a smooth paste, then mixed with water, the amount depending on how the poi is to be served. Since poi is eaten with the fingers, its consistency is measured accordingly and ranges from "one-finger" (the thickest) to "three-finger" (the thinnest). Poi is generally fermented for several days, which gives it a sour, acidic taste. It can be eaten by itself, mixed with milk to make a porridge or served as a condiment for meat and fish. Poi is available in cans in Hawaii and in some specialty stores on the mainland.
poire
The French word for "pear."
poire Hélène
A dessert consisting of a pear that has been poached in a vanilla-flavored sugar syrup, chilled, then placed on a scoop of vanilla ice cream and topped with warm chocolate sauce. This dessert is also called belle Hélène.
Poire William
A clear pear eau de vie from Switzerland. Some bottles of Poire William have a whole pear inside, a feat accomplished by placing a bottle over the budding fruit and allowing it to grow inside.
pois
The French word for "pea" or "peas." Petits pois are small green peas.
poisson
The French word for "fish." Poisson d'eau douce is "freshwater fish," poisson de mer is "seawater fish."
Poivre
French for "pepper."
Polenta
A slow-cooked cornmeal porridge popular in northern Italy; can be served soupy or firm, sometimes fried.
pollo
The Italian and Spanish word for "chicken."
pollock; pollack
This member of the cod family is found in the North Atlantic. The low- to moderate-fat flesh is white, firm and has a delicate, slightly sweet flavor. The pollock can reach about 35 pounds but is normally found in markets between 4 and 10 pounds. It's available fresh, frozen and smoked, either whole or in fillets or steaks. Pollock may be prepared in any way suitable for cod. It's often used to make surimi, which is now commonly available. See also fish.
polonaise, à la
French for "in the manner of Poland," generally referring to cooked vegetables (most often cauliflower or asparagus) that are sprinkled with chopped hard-cooked egg, bread crumbs, parsley and melted butter.
Polpette
Italian meat balls.
pom pom mushroom
A beautiful white mushroom that was named for its resemblance to a cheerleader's pompoms. This firm yet feathery specimen can range from 4 to 10 inches in diameter. It can be found in some specialty produce markets throughout the year. Select those with a bright white color and no signs of yellowing. See also mushroom.
pomegranate
Nature's most labor-intensive fruit is about the size of a large orange and has a thin, leathery skin that can range in color from red to pink-blushed yellow. Inside are hundreds of seeds packed in compartments that are separated by bitter, cream-colored membranes. Each tiny, edible seed is surrounded by a translucent, brilliant-red pulp that has a sparkling sweet-tart flavor. Pomegranates are grown throughout Asia, the Mediterranean countries and in California. In the United States they're available in October and November. Choose those that are heavy for their size and have a bright, fresh color and blemish-free skin. Refrigerate for up to 2 months or store in a cool, dark place for up to a month. To use, cut the pomegranate in half and pry out the pulp-encased seeds, removing any of the light-colored membrane that may adhere. Pomegranates can be eaten as fruit, used as a garnish on sweet and savory dishes or pressed to extract the juice. They're rich in potassium and contain a fair amount of vitamin C.
pomelo; pommelo; pummelo
This giant citrus fruit is native to Malaysia (where it still grows abundantly) and thought to be ancestor to the grapefruit. Like grapefruits, pomelos vary greatly in color, size and shape. They range from cantaloupe-size to as large as a 25-pound watermelon and have very thick, soft rind that can vary in color from yellow to pale yellowish-brown to pink. The light yellow to coral-pink flesh can vary from juicy to slightly dry and from seductively spicy-sweet to tangy and tart. The pomelo is also called shaddock after an English sea captain who introduced the seed to the West Indies. The French name for this fruit is chadec. Choose fruit that is heavy for its size, blemish-free and sweetly fragrant. Store in the refrigerator for up to a week. Pomelos may be used in any way suitable for grapefruit. They're high in vitamin C and potassium. The pomelo is also called Chinese grapefruit.
pomme
The French word for "apple."
pomme de terre
A French phrase that literally means "apple of the earth," but which refers to the potato. The phrase is usually shortened to simply pommes, as in pommes frites (french fries).
pommes Anna
Translated as "Anna potatoes," this classic French dish is a simple preparation of thinly sliced potatoes baked in a shallow dish or pie plate. Layers of potatoes are buttered and sprinkled with salt and pepper. The dish is then tightly covered with foil and the top weighted. After baking, the dish is inverted onto a serving plate and the potatoes turned out. The resulting potato "pie" is brown and crisp on the outside and soft and buttery on the inside. It's cut into wedges to serve.
pommes frites
The French phrase for french fries.
pommes noisette
Noisette is French for "hazelnut," and this term refers to potatoes that have been cut into tiny, hazelnut-shape balls before being sautéed in butter until well browned.
pommes soufflées
Also known as soufflé potatoes, these crisp potato puffs are the result of deep-frying thinly sliced potatoes twice. The first time the potatoes are fried in 300°F oil. After cooling, they're fried in 375°F oil until they inflate and turn golden brown.
pomodoro
Literally translating to "golden apple," pomodoro is Italian for "tomato" (the first tomatoes in Italy were a yellowish color). Dishes described as al pomodoro are served with a tomato sauce.
pompano
1. A member of the jack family, this saltwater fish is found in waters off South Atlantic and Gulf states. Its succulent, fine-textured, moderately fat flesh has a mild, delicate flavor. Pompano is considered by many to be America's finest fish one reason, no doubt, that it's so expensive. It's marketed whole and in fillets, both fresh and frozen. Pompano may be prepared by almost any cooking method. The most famous dish made from this fish is pompano en papillote, where it's baked in parchment paper with mushrooms and a velouté sauce. 2. Pacific pompano is a variety of butterfish. See also fish.
Pont l'Évêque cheese
This uncooked, ripened cheese was well known as far back as the 13th century. It's made from whole or partially skimmed cow's milk and has a milk fat content of about 50 percent. The square-shape cheese has a golden or golden-orange rind. The interior is pale yellow with a creamy, softly oozing texture and a fresh, sweet-tart flavor. A well-ripened Pont l'Évêque will smell strong but not stinky. Avoid those that are gummy or bitter tasting. See also cheese.
pony
1. A small (about 1 ounce) bar measure, which is sometimes also used to serve liqueurs. 2. The term also refers to the amount of liquid such a glass holds (usually 1 ounce), as in a pony of whiskey. See also shot; jigger.
Ponzu sauce
A Japanese mix of soy sauce, lemon juice or rice vinegar, sake or other liquor, seaweed and dried bonito flakes.
poori; puri
This deep-fried bread is round, flat and unleavened. It's made with whole-wheat flour, water and ghee or other fat the dough is almost identical to that for chapati. Poori is very popular in northern India as well as in neighboring Pakistan.
popcorn; popped corn
Said to date back at least 6,000 years, popcorn is a special variety of dried corn that pops open and puffs up when heated. This transformation occurs because of a high amount of natural moisture trapped inside the hull. Heating the corn creates immense pressure, which bursts open the hull, turning the kernel inside-out. Popcorn comes in many styles, from white to yellow to red to blue, from plain to flavored, and from oil-popped to air-popped. There's also special popcorn formulated for use in the microwave oven, as well as ears of popcorn, the kernels of which pop right on the cob. For regular (sans oil) packaged popcorn, 1 tablespoon of oil plus 1/2 cup corn kernels yields about 4 cups of popped corn. Unpopped popcorn can be stored at room temperature for about a year, but retains its natural moisture (which means it will produce larger popped kernels) better if stored airtight in the refrigerator or freezer. Popcorn packaged with oil in its own "pan" should be stored no longer than about 3 months at room temperature. One cup of plain popcorn equals about 30 calories; 1 cup buttered popcorn equals 90 to 120 calories, depending on the amount of butter.
pope's nose
Also known as a parson's nose, this is the stubby tail protuberance of a dressed fowl. It seems to have originated as a derogatory term meant to demean Catholics in England during the late 17th century.
popover
A puffy, muffin-size bread with a crisp brown crust and a somewhat hollow, moist interior. Basic popovers begin with a simple batter of eggs, milk, butter and flour. The high proportion of liquid in the batter creates steam that leavens the bread. Popovers may be baked in muffin tins or special popover pans, which have extra-deep cups. The name is said to come from the fact that as the batter bakes and expands, it "pops over" the sides of the cup-shaped indentations. Popovers can be plain or variously flavored with items such as cheese, spices or herbs.
poppy seed; poppyseed
These small, dried, bluish-gray seeds of the poppy plant measure less than 1/16 inch in diameter it takes about 900,000 of them to equal a pound. Poppy seeds have a crunchy texture and a nutty flavor. They're used as a filling in various cakes, pastries and coffee cakes, as a topping for myriad baked goods, in salad dressings and in a variety of cooked dishes particularly those originating in central Europe, the Middle East and India. Poppy seeds can be purchased whole or ground in most supermarkets. There are also beige and brown poppy seeds, which are more commonly available in Asian or Middle Eastern markets. Because of their high oil content, all poppy seeds are prone to rancidity. They should therefore be stored, airtight, in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. The flavor of poppy seed is augmented by toasting.See also spices; herb and spice chart.
Porcini
Smoky, meaty wild mushrooms.
porcino
Also called cèpes, these delicious, earthy treasures are members of the Boletus edulis species of wild mushroom. They're pale brown in color and can weigh from an ounce or two up to a pound. Their caps can range from 1 to 10 inches in diameter. Porcini have a smooth, meaty texture and pungent, woodsy flavor that is much regaled. You'll seldom find them fresh in the United States but you might try looking for them in specialty produce markets in late spring or in the autumn. If you get lucky, choose those with firm, large (about 6-inch) caps and pale undersides. The dried form of this mushroom is more readily available. Choose those that are a tan to pale brown in color; avoid those that are crumbly. Dried porcini must be softened in hot water for about 20 minutes before using. They can be substituted for cultivated mushrooms in most recipes. One ounce of dried mushrooms will serve about 4 people in soups, stuffings, stews and the like. Porcini are also known as Boletes and Steinpilze. See also mushroom.
porridge
A thick, puddinglike dish made of cereal or grain (usually oatmeal) cooked in water or milk. Porridge is usually eaten hot for breakfast with sugar and milk or cream.
Port-Salut cheese
This semisoft cheese was first made by 19th-century Trappist monks at the Monastery of Port-du-Salut in the Brittany region of France. Made from cow's milk, Port-Salut comes in thick cylinders (about 9 inches in diameter) with an orange rind and pale-yellow interior. It has a mild, savory flavor and smooth, satiny texture. It's a perfect partner for fruit. See also cheese.
port; Porto
A sweet fortified wine most often served after a meal. Grape alcohol is added to the wine partway through fermentation, stopping the process at a point where the wine has plenty of sweetness and alcohol (18 to 20 percent). Port wines originated in the Douro Valley in northern Portugal; the best ports still come from that area. The name is derived from the fact that these wines are shipped out of the Portuguese city of Oporto and, in fact, such wines are labeled "Porto," rather than "port." There are many types of port and the various labels can be confusing. The best and most expensive are Vintage Ports, which are made from grapes of a single vintage, bottled within 2 years. The very best of these can age 50 years or more. Late-bottled Vintage Ports and Single Vintage Ports are also made from grapes of a single vintage (though the grapes are not of as high a quality as those for vintage Ports). Late-bottled Vintage Ports are aged in wood for up to 6 years, while Single Vintage Ports have been wood-aged at least 7 years. Both are ready to drink when bottled and do not have the aging potential of Vintage Ports. Tawny Ports are a blend of grapes from several different years and can be aged in wood for as long as 40 years. They're tawny in color and ready to drink when bottled. Vintage Character Ports are essentially high-quality Ruby Ports, which are considered the lowest grade of port. They're blended from several vintages and wood-aged, but not nearly as long as Tawnies. They're the lightest and fruitiest in flavor and are ready to drink when bottled. American wineries have been bottling vintage ports since the early 1970s.
porter
A heavy, dark-brown, strongly flavored beer. The dark color and strong flavor come from the addition of roasted malt. Porters are usually higher in alcohol than regular lager beers. See also beer.
porterhouse steak
A steak cut from the large end of the short loin containing meat from both the tenderloin (the most tender cut of meat) and the top loin muscle. This is one of the best and most expensive steaks. See also beef.
portobello mushroom; portobella mushroom
An extremely large, dark brown mushroom that is simply the fully mature form of the crimino, which in turn is a variation of the common cultivated white mushroom. The name "portobello" began to be used in the 1980s as a brilliant marketing ploy to popularize an unglamorous mushroom that, more often than not, had to be disposed of because growers couldn't sell them. The portobello mushroom, which can easily measure 6 inches in diameter, has an open, flat cap. Because it's the elder of the species, the portobello's gills are fully exposed, which means that some of the mushroom's moisture has evaporated. The reduced moisture concentrates and enriches the flavor and creates a dense, meaty texture. Portobellos can be found in gourmet produce markets as well as many supermarkets. Their stems are very woody and should be removed (but saved for soups, stocks, etc.). The caps can be used chopped, as with most mushrooms, but the portobello is much more dramatic used whole. It's particularly popular grilled and used in a sandwich, or cut into thick slices for a salad or entrée. See also mushroom.
posole; pozole
A thick, hearty soup usually eaten as a main course. It consists of chicken meat and broth, hominy, onion, garlic, dried chiles and cilantro. It's usually served with chopped lettuce, radishes, onions, and cilantro, which diners can add to the soup as they please. Posole originated in Jalisco, in the middle of Mexico's Pacific Coast region.
posset
In the Middle Ages this hearty hot drink was considered a remedy for colds. It consists of hot milk, wine or ale, sugar and spices. Some versions add beaten egg, making it even richer.
pot
n. A round, deep cooking container that usually has two handles and a lid. Pots can range from small to large. Except for skillets, most cooking containers can be called pots. pot v. An older method of preserving food by cooking it in plenty of fat and a small amount of water. After cooking, the food is placed in small pots or jars and covered with a layer of fat. As the fat cools and hardens it forms an airtight seal, protecting the food from airborne bacteria. Refrigeration and other modern food-packaging methods have limited the necessity for potting foods, but some traditional dishes like French confits are still potted and enjoyed today.
pot cheese
A soft, fresh cheese that is basically cottage cheese that is drained longer and therefore has a slightly drier texture. See also cheese.
pot de crème; pot-au-crème
French for "pot of cream," this dessert consists of a creamy-rich custard prepared and served in tiny (about 3-ounce) pot-shaped cups. Though the classic flavoring is vanilla, pot de crème comes in many variations including chocolate and coffee.
pot liquor; potlikker
The vitamin-rich liquid left after cooking greens, vegetables, meat, etc. This broth is particularly popular in the southern United States and is traditionally served separately with cornbread or corn pone.
pot pie; potpie
A dish of chunks of meat or poultry, chopped vegetables and rich sauce, combined in a deep bowl or casserole, topped with a pastry crust and baked.
pot roast
n: Usually an inexpensive, less tender cut of beef that is first browned, then braised very slowly in a covered pot with a little liquid. The result is a flavorful, tender piece of meat. chuck or round cuts are the most popular for this dish. The dish is called Yankee pot roast when vegetables are added to the pot partway through the cooking process. pot roast v. To cook meat by browning, then braising in a covered pot either on top of the stove or in the oven.
pot stickers
Small dumplings made of won ton skins filled with ground meat or fish, chopped water chestnuts, scallions and seasonings. The pot stickers are browned on one side, then turned and simmered in broth. Pot stickers are usually served as appetizers, accompanied with various dipping sauces.
Pot-au-feu
Meat and vegetables simmered in water.
potable
A word used to describe a liquid suitable for drinking, such as potable water. potable n. Any beverage, particularly those containing alcohol.
potage
The French have three separate words for soup. consommé is a clear, thin broth. Soupe refers to a thick, hearty mélange with chunks of food. Potage falls somewhere between the first two in texture and thickness. A potage is usually pureed and is often thickened slightly with cream or egg yolks. Today, the words soupe and potage are often used interchangeably.
potato
The ancient Incas were cultivating this humble tuber thousands of years ago. The potato was not readily accepted in Europe, however, because it was known to be a member of the nightshade family (as are the tomato and eggplant) and therefore thought to be poisonous. In the 16th century, Sir Walter Raleigh was instrumental in debunking the poisonous potato superstition when he planted them on property he owned in Ireland. The Irish knew a good thing when they saw it and a hundred years later were growing and consuming the potato in great quantities. Today, hundreds of varieties of this popular vegetable are grown around the world. In America, the potato can be divided into four basic categories: russet, long white, round white and round red. The russet Burbank potato (also simply called russet and Idaho ) is long, slightly rounded and has a brown, rough skin and numerous eyes. Its low moisture and high starch content not only give it superior baking qualities but also make it excellent for french fries. The russet Burbank was named for its developer, horticulturalist Luther Burbank of Idaho. Although grown throughout the Midwest, the russet is also commonly called idaho potato (whether or not it's grown there). Long white potatoes have a similar shape as the russet but they have thin, pale gray-brown skins with almost imperceptible eyes. They're sometimes called white rose or California long whites, after the state in which they were developed. Long whites can be baked, boiled or fried. The thumb-sized baby long whites are called finger potatoes. The medium-size round white and round red potatoes are also commonly referred to as boiling potatoes. They're almost identical except that the round white has a freckled brown skin and the round red a reddish-brown coat. They both have a waxy flesh that contains less starch and more moisture than the russet and long white. This makes them better suited for boiling (they're both commonly used to make mashed potatoes) than for baking. They're also good for roasting and frying. The round white is grown mainly in the Northeast where it's sometimes referred to by one of its variety names, Katahdin. The round red is cultivated mainly in the Northwest. Yukon gold potatoes have a skin and flesh that ranges from buttery yellow to golden. These boiling potatoes have a moist, almost succulent texture and make excellent mashed potatoes. There are a variety of relatively new potatoes in the marketplace, most of which aren't new at all but rather heritage vegetables that date back centuries. Among the more distinctive examples are the all blue potatoes, which range in color from bluish purple to purple-black. These small potatoes have a dense texture and are good for boiling. Other purple potatoes have skin colors that range from lavender to dark blue and flesh that can be from white to beige with purple streaking. Among the red-fleshed potatoes are the huckleberry (red skin and flesh) and the blossom (pinkish-red skin and flesh). New potatoes are simply young potatoes (any variety). They haven't had time to convert their sugar fully into starch and consequently have a crisp, waxy texture and thin, undeveloped wispy skins. New potatoes are small enough to cook whole and are excellent boiled or pan-roasted. Because they retain their shape after being cooked and cut, new potatoes are particularly suited for use in potato salad. The season for new potatoes is spring to early summer. Potatoes of one variety or another are available year-round. Choose potatoes that are suitable for the desired method of cooking. All potatoes should be firm, well-shaped (for their type) and blemish-free. New potatoes may be missing some of their feathery skin but other types should not have any bald spots. Avoid potatoes that are wrinkled, sprouted or cracked. A green tinge indicative of prolonged light exposure is caused by the alkaloid solanine, which can be toxic if eaten in quantity. This bitter green portion can be cut or scraped off and the potato used in the normal fashion. Store potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated place for up to 2 weeks. New potatoes should be used within 3 days of purchase. Refrigerating potatoes causes them to become quite sweet and to turn dark when cooked. Warm temperatures encourage sprouting and shriveling. Potatoes are probably the most versatile vegetable in the world and can be cooked in any way imaginable. They're available in a wide selection of commercial products including potato chips, instant mashed potatoes (dehydrated cooked potatoes), canned new potatoes and a plethora of frozen products including hash browns, french fries and stuffed baked potatoes. Potatoes are not at all hard on the waistline (a 6-ounce potato contains only about 120 calories) and pack a nutritional punch. They're low in sodium, high in potassium and an important source of complex carbohydrates and vitamins C and B-6, as well as a storehouse of minerals. Neither sweet potatoes nor yams are botanically related to the potato.
potato chips
Because these deep-fried, thinly sliced potatoes were invented by the chef of a Saratoga Springs, New York, hotel at the behest of a mid-19th-century guest, they're also called Saratoga chips. Now these all-American favorites come commercially in a wide selection of sizes, cuts (ripple and flat), thicknesses, and flavors such as chive, barbecue and nacho. Most commercial potato chips contain preservatives; those labeled "natural" usually do not. Some are salted while others are labeled "low-salt"; though most potato chips are skinless, others do include the flavorful skin. There are even chips made from mashed potatoes formed into perfect rounds and packed into crushproof cardboard cylinders. All potato chips should be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place. The storage time depends on whether or not they contain preservatives and how old they were when purchased. Some chips have a freshness date stamped on the package.
potato flour
Also called potato starch, this gluten-free flour is made from cooked, dried and ground potatoes. It's used as a thickener and, because it produces a moist crumb, in some baked goods.
potato salad
A salad of cooked, diced or cubed potatoes mixed with other ingredients such as chopped onion, green peppers, celery, hard-cooked eggs, seasonings and a mayonnaise- or sour cream- based dressing. German potato salad, often served hot, is bound with a viniagrette dressing.
poularde
The French term referring to a fat chicken or hen suitable for roasting.
poulet
The French word for a young, tender spring chicken.
poultry
Any domesticated bird used as food. Centuries ago the Chinese began raising a variety of birds that were gradually brought to the West via Asia, Greece and Rome. Today there are many domesticated varieties of poultry including chicken, turkey, duck, goose, Rock Cornish hen (see chicken), guinea fowl and pheasant. All poultry ranks high nutritionally. It's classified as a complete protein, is a good source of calcium, phosphorus and iron and contains riboflavin, thiamine and niacin. See chicken for information regarding purchasing, storing and preparing poultry.
poultry shears
A scissorlike implement designed to cut up poultry. A good pair of poultry shears has slip-proof handles and slightly curved blades, one with a serrated and notched edge for gripping the flesh and cutting bones. Poultry shears make easy work of cutting up a duck, snipping out the backbone of a chicken or cutting up a stewing hen to be used for stock. They also perform additional useful tasks such as trimming artichokes and other vegetables.
pound cake
Originally this fine-textured loaf cake was made with one pound each of flour, butter, sugar and eggs, plus a flavoring like vanilla or lemon. A myriad of variations have evolved throughout the years, with additions such as leavening (baking powder or baking soda) and flavorings such as coconut, nuts, raisins and dried fruit. With reduced cholesterol and calories in mind, there are now pound cakes made with vegetable oil, as well as nonfat versions.
pousse-café
1. This French term literally means "push the coffee," and in France refers in general to cordials, brandies, etc. that might be served after dinner with coffee. 2. In the United States, it refers to a very elaborate, multicolored after-dinner drink made by layering various liqueurs on top of one another without disturbing the layer below. A slender liqueur glass is used and the heaviest (usually the sweetest) liqueurs are poured in first.
Poussin
A small, young chicken.
praliné
A food that is garnished, coated or made with praline or almonds.
Praline
A sweet made of almonds and sugar invented for the French Comte du
preserve
To prepare foods so that they can be kept for long periods of time without spoiling or deteriorating. Depending on the food and the length of time it's to be stored, preserving can be accomplished in a number of different ways including refrigeration, freezing, canning, salting, smoking, freeze-drying, dehydrating and pickling.
preserved lemons
Lemons that have been preserved in a salt-lemon juice mixture (sometimes with spices such as cinnamon, cloves and coriander) for about 30 days. Preserved lemons have a silken texture and a distinctive flavor. They're an indispensable ingredient and flavoring in Moroccan cooking and used as a flavoring by many of today's leading chefs.
preserves
Fruit cooked with sugar and usually pectin, used as a spread for bread. Preserves differ from jam in that the chunks of fruit are medium to large rather than the texture of thick puree. See also jelly.
pressed cookie
Fancy cookies that are formed by pressing dough through a cookie press or pastry bag fitted with a decorative tip. See also cookie.
pressed duck
1. A French specialty in which the breast and legs are removed from a cooked duck. The remainder of the bird is compressed in a special implement called a duck press, which extracts all the juices. The extracted juice is mixed with reduced red wine, cognac and butter to produce a delicious sauce that is served with the sliced breast and legs. 2. A Chinese dish in which the duck is steamed, boned and flattened, then steamed and flattened again. The duck is then cut into quarters and deep-fried to a golden brown. Before serving, it's cut into squares and served on a bed of shredded lettuce, garnished with toasted almonds and accompanied with a pungent sauce.
pressure cooker
A special cooking pot with a locking, airtight lid and a valve system to regulate internal pressure. Pressure cookers operate on a principle whereby the steam that builds up inside the pressurized pot cooks food at a very high temperature. This reduces the cooking time by as much as two-thirds without destroying the food's nutritional value. Newer pressure cooker designs feature built-in valves and indicator rods that indicate the pressure. Traditional models are equipped with detachable pressure regulators that can adjust the pressure for low (5 pounds), medium (10 pounds) or high (15 pounds). The more pounds of pressure, the higher the internal temperature and the quicker the food cooks. Pressure cookers have a safety valve, which will automatically vent the steam should there be a malfunction. There are many styles of pressure cookers on the market today, most of which are made for stovetop cooking. But there are also small pressure cookers that can be used in a microwave oven. Some of the newer pressure cookers have built-in pressure regulators. Pressure cookers are useful for foods that would normally be cooked with moist heat such as soups, stews, steamed puddings, tough cuts of meat, artichokes, etc. They can also be used for canning, and there are special pressure canners made specifically for this purpose.
pretzel
The pretzel can be traced back to the Romans, although the twisted loose knot shape is thought to have been introduced in the early part of the 7th century. The first U.S. commercial pretzel factory was established in 1861 in Lititz, Pennsylvania. There are two main types of pretzel hard and crisp or soft and chewy (the older of the two forms). The latter is often sold hot with mustard by street vendors from their pretzel carts. Pretzels can be sprinkled with coarse salt or not, and shaped in the form of knots, sticks or rings. Crisp pretzels are available in many sizes, shapes and even flavors (such as rye) in supermarkets.
prick
To make small holes in the surface of food. The best example is an unfilled pie dough that is pricked all over with the tines of a fork so it bakes without blistering or rising (see bake blind).
prickly pear
Named for its pearlike shape and size, this fruit comes from any of several varieties of cactus. Its prickly skin can range in color from green to purplish-red; its soft, porous flesh (scattered with black seeds) from light yellow-green to deep golden. Also called cactus pear, the prickly pear has a melonlike aroma and a sweet but rather bland flavor. It's extremely popular in Mexico, Central and South America, the Mediterranean countries and southern Africa, and is slowly gaining favor in the United States. Prickly pears are available in Mexican markets and some specialty produce markets from fall through spring. Choose fruit that gives slightly to palm pressure. It should have a deep, even color. Ripen firm prickly pears at room temperature until soft. Store ripe fruit in the refrigerator for up to a week. Prickly pears are usually served cold, peeled and sectioned with the seeds removed.
Primal Cut
A primal cut is a piece of meat initially separated from the carcass of an animal during butchering. These primal cuts are then broken down further (or fabricated) into commercial or individual retail cuts. The common primal cuts of beef are: chuck (shoulder), rib, loin, and round. Subprimals are brisket, plate, shank, sirloin and flank.
primavera, alla
This Italian phrase means "spring style" and culinarily refers to the use of fresh vegetables (raw or blanched) as a garnish to various dishes. One of the most popular dishes prepared in this manner is pasta primavera, pasta tossed or topped with diced or julienned cooked vegetables.
prime rib
The term "prime rib" is often incorrectly used as a label for what is actually a rib roast. Culinarily, the term "prime" actually refers to the highest usda beef grade. It's only given to the finest beef, hallmarked by even marbling and a creamy layer of fat. Very little prime beef makes it past the better hotels and restaurants or prestige butchers. The best grade of beef generally found in supermarkets is usda Choice. Therefore, although "prime rib" is how rib roast is often labeled, chances are that it's usda Choice beef. See beef.
Prix fixe
French for fixed price, a complete meal that features a limited number of selections at a preset price.
processed cheese
Any of several types of natural cheese that are pasteurized to lengthen storage life and combined with emulsifiers to aid smoothness. In some cases processed cheeses contain added colorings and preservatives. Products labeled cheese "spreads" or cheese "foods" contain added liquid for a softer, more spreadable mixture. According to U.S. government standards, only 51 percent of the final weight needs to be cheese. Processed cheeses keep well but lack the distinctive flavor and texture of natural cheeses. They're also sometimes referred to as American cheeses. See also cheese.
profiterole
A miniature cream puff filled with either a sweet or savory mixture. Savory profiteroles are usually served as appetizers. One of the most famous desserts made with these tiny pastries is the elaborate croquembouche.
proof
n. A term used to indicate the amount of alcohol in liquor or other spirits. In the United States, proof is exactly twice the percentage of alcohol. Therefore, a bottle of liquor labeled "86 Proof" contains 43 percent alcohol. proof v. To dissolve yeast in a warm liquid (sometimes with a small amount of sugar) and set it aside in a warm place for 5 to 10 minutes until it swells and becomes bubbly. This technique proves that the yeast is alive and active and therefore capable of leavening a bread or other baked good.
proteins
Composed of amino acids, proteins perform myriad essential functions for the body including supplying energy and building and repairing tissues. Proteins are obtained from both animal and vegetable sources including eggs, fish and meat.
provençal, à la
A term referring to dishes prepared in the style of Provence, a region in southeastern France. Garlic, tomatoes and olive oil are the major trademark of provençal cooking. Onions, olives, mushrooms, anchovies and eggplant also play a prominent part in many of these dishes.
provolone cheese
This southern Italian cow's milk-cheese has a firm texture and a mild, smoky flavor. It has a golden-brown rind and comes in various forms, though the squat pear shape is most recognizable. Most provolone is aged for 2 to 3 months and has a pale-yellow color. However, some are aged 6 months to a year or more. As the cheese ripens, the color becomes a richer yellow and the flavor more pronounced. It is an excellent cooking cheese and aged provolones can be used for grating. Provolone is packaged in various sizes from little pear-shaped packages to giant sausage-shaped 200-pounders. Provolone is also now manufactured in the United States. See also cheese.
prune
1. A dried plum. Prunes can be traced back to Roman times and have long been a popular northern European winter fruit because they could be stored without problem. Although any plum can be made into a prune, those with the greatest flavor, sweetness and firmness are best suited for that use. Commercial dehydration has replaced sun-drying as the primary method of producing prunes. Though the best prunes are found in the fall, they're available year-round. Prunes come in various sizes and are usually labeled small, medium, large, extra large and jumbo. When purchasing prunes look for those that are slightly soft and somewhat flexible. They should have a bluish-black skin and be blemish-free. Store them airtight in a cool, dry place (or refrigerate) for up to six months. Prunes can be eaten out of hand or used in a variety of sweet and savory dishes. Prune puree, which can be found in jars in most supermarkets, is broadly touted (primarily by the California Prune Board) as a fat substitute. In baked goods, substituting prune puree for butter or other fat can reduce cholesterol to zero and calories by up to 30 percent. The puree contributes moisture, a slightly chewy texture and a pruny flavor that can range from mild to moderately aggressive, depending on the other flavors in the food. 2. A variety of Italian plum. 3. In French, the word prune means "plum," while pruneau means "prune."
prunelle
A sweet, pale-green, brandy-based liqueur flavored with sloes (wild plums).
pueblo bread; pueblo adobe bread
A Native American bread made by the pueblo-dwelling Indians of the Southwest and baked in the adobe ovens common to their dwellings. The bread's made from unbleached flour, salt, yeast, water, lard or shortening and sometimes sugar and/or eggs. A hot fire is started in the adobe oven and allowed to burn out. The ashes are immediately removed and the bread is then baked.
puff pastry
The French call this rich, delicate, multilayered pastry pâte feuilletée. It's made by placing pats of chilled fat (usually butter) between layers of pastry dough, then rolling it out, folding it in thirds and letting it rest. This process, which is repeated 6 to 8 times, produces a pastry comprising hundreds of layers of dough and butter. When baked, the moisture in the butter creates steam, causing the dough to puff and separate into hundreds of flaky layers. Puff pastry is used to make a variety of crisp creations including croissants, napoleons, palmiers and allumettes. It's also used as a wrapping for various foods such as meats, cheese and fruit.
puffball mushroom
A firm, round, white mushroom that can range in size from 4 ounces to a giant 50-pounder. It has a mild, nutty flavor that complements many foods. Puffball mushrooms are available sporadically in specialty produce markets. They can be cut into thick or thin slices, breaded and sautéed, or chopped and used in a variety of dishes. See also mushroom.
pullet
A young hen, less than 1 year old. See also chicken.
pulque
The unofficial national drink of Mexico, pulque is the fermented sap of the agave. It's white, thick and quite sweet.
pulse
The dried seed of any of several legumes including beans, peas and lentils.
pulverize
To reduce to powder or dust, usually by crushing, pounding or grinding.
pumpernickel
A coarse dark bread with a slightly sour taste. Pumpernickel is usually made of a high proportion of rye flour and a small amount of wheat flour. Molasses is often used to add both color and flavor.
pumpkin
When the Colonists landed in North America they found the Indians growing and using pumpkins. This large, ungainly fruit was enthusiastically embraced by the new Americans and subsequently pumpkin pie became a national Thanksgiving tradition. It was so loved that one early Connecticut colony delayed Thanksgiving because the molasses needed to make this popular pie wasn't readily available. Large, round and orange, the pumpkin is a member of the gourd family, which also includes muskmelon, watermelon and squash. Its orange flesh has a mild, sweet flavor and the seeds husked and roasted are delicately nutty. Pumpkin seeds are commonly known as pepitas. Fresh pumpkins are available in the fall and winter and some specimens have weighed in at well over 100 pounds. In general, however, the flesh from smaller sizes will be more tender and succulent. Choose pumpkins that are free from blemishes and heavy for their size. Store whole pumpkins at room temperature up to a month or refrigerate up to 3 months. Pureed pumpkin is also available canned. Pumpkin may be prepared in almost any way suitable for winter squash. It's a good source of vitamin A.
pumpkin seed oil
A robustly flavored oil made from roasted pumpkin seeds (see pepitas). The color of this fairly thick oil is a khaki-green. Because of its strong flavor, pumpkin seed oil is best combined with other oils in cooking, salad dressings and other preparations. See also fats and oils.
pupu; pu pu
The Hawaiian term for any hot or cold appetizer, which can include a wide range of items such as macadamia nuts, won tons, chunks of fresh pineapple or coconut and barbecued meats.
puree; purée
n. Any food (usually a fruit or vegetable) that is finely mashed to a smooth, thick consistency. Purees can be used as a garnish, served as a side dish or added as a thickener to sauces or soups. puree v. To grind or mash food until it's completely smooth. This can be accomplished by one of several methods including using a food processor or blender or by forcing the food through a sieve.
Purslane
A cool, crunchy plant popular in India, the Middle East, and 16th Century Europe.
Puttanesca
Spicy, bold tomato sauce (hence the name, deriving from the Italian word for whore) made distinct with anchovies, capers and black olives.
puttanesca sauce; alla puttanesca
Generally served with pasta, this sauce is a spicy mélange of tomatoes, onions, capers, black olives, anchovies, oregano and garlic, all cooked together in olive oil. A dish on a menu described as alla puttanesca signals that it's served with this sauce. The name puttanesca is a derivation of puttana, which in Italian means "whore." According to one story, the name purportedly comes from the fact that the intense fragrance of this sauce was like a siren's call to the men who visited such "ladies of pleasure."
pyramide cheese
A truncated pyramid is the shape of this small French chèvre that's often coated with an edible dark-gray vegetable ash. It's produced around the central Loire valley area of France. Pyramide can range in texture from soft to slightly crumbly and, depending on age, in flavor from mild to sharp. It's wonderful served with crackers or bread and fruit. See also cheese.
quadrettini
Small flat squares of pasta.
quail
The American quail is not related to the European quail, a migratory game bird belonging to the partridge family. But when colonists discovered birds that resembled the European version they called them by the same name. American quail are known by various names depending on the region bobwhite in the East, partridge in the South, quail in the North and blue quail in the Southwest. Other notable members of this family are California quail, mountain quail and Montezuma quail. American quail nest on the ground and are not migratory in fact, they'd rather walk than fly. They're very social and travel in small groups called coveys. The meat of the American quail is white and delicately flavored. In general, they should be cooked like other game birds young birds can be roasted, broiled or fried and older fowl should be cooked with moist heat. Most of the quail marketed today are raised on game bird farms. Fresh quail can be ordered through specialty butchers, who might also carry frozen quail.
Quark
A soft, unripened cheese with the texture and flavor of sour cream, Quark comes in two versions lowfat and nonfat. Though the calories are the same (35 per ounce), the texture of lowfat Quark is richer than that of lowfat sour cream. It has a milder flavor and richer texture than lowfat yogurt. Quark can be used as a sour cream substitute to top baked potatoes, and as an ingredient in a variety of dishes including cheesecakes, dips, salads and sauces. See also cheese.
quatre épices
A French phrase meaning "four spices," referring to any of several finely ground spice mixtures. Though there's no standard mixture for quatre épices, the blend is usually mixed from the following selection: pepper (usually white), nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon or cloves. Quatre épices is used to flavor soups, stews and vegetables. See also spices.
Quenelle
A dumpling made from fish or meat forcemeat then poached.
Quesadilla
A flour tortilla filled, folded and then either toasted or fried. The filling usually consists of cheese, salsa, meat and refried beans.
Queso
Spanish for cheese.
queso fresco
A white, slightly salty, fresh Mexican cheese with a texture similar to that of farmer cheese. Queso fresco is available in cottage cheese-style tubs in Latin markets and many supermarkets. Also called queso blanco.
queso fundido
Spanish for "melted cheese," referring to a dish (which is usually served as an appetizer) of just that melted cheese. Additions are varied and may include jalapeños or bits of cooked beef or chicken without the cheese.
quetsch
A variety of plum used primarily to make an Alsatian eau de vie of the same name. This plum is also used in desserts and liqueurs.
Quiche
A savory, open-faced pie made from cheese and eggs.
quick bread
Bread that is quick to make because it doesn't require kneading or rising time. That's because the leavener in such a bread is usually baking powder or baking soda, which, when combined with moisture, starts the rising process immediately. In the case of double-acting baking powder, oven heat causes a second burst of rising power. Eggs can also be used to leaven quick breads. This genre includes most biscuits, muffins, popovers and a wide variety of sweet and savory loaf breads.
quince
Ancient Romans used the flowers and fruit of the quince tree for everything from perfume to honey. It was also considered a symbol of love and given to one's intended as a sign of commitment. Though the quince has been around for over 4,000 years throughout Asia and the Mediterranean countries, it's not particularly popular with Americans. This yellow-skinned fruit looks and tastes like a cross between an apple and a pear. The hard, yellowish-white flesh is quite dry and has an astringent, tart flavor. Its texture and flavor make it better cooked than raw, and because of its high pectin content it's particularly popular for use in jams, jellies and preserves. Quinces are available in supermarkets from October through December. Select those that are large, firm and yellow with little or no sign of green. Wrap quinces in a plastic bag and refrigerate for up to 2 months. Peel before using in jams, preserves, desserts and savory dishes.
Quinoa
Small, round, pale-brown grains look similar to millet and have a mild taste and a firm texture. Quinoa is considered a complete protein because it contains all eight essential amino acids.
Rösti
Refers to a Swiss potato dish, similar to some types of home fries, where shredded potatoes are sautéed on both sides until browned.
Rémoulade
A cold mayonnaise sauce flavored with mustard, gherkins, capers, anchovies and herbs.
rôti
French for "roast" or "roasted."
rôtie
1. A canapé consisting of a slice of toast spread with pâté or forcemeat. 2. Also simply a toasted slice of bread.
rösti
In Switzerland rösti means "crisp and golden." The term refers to foods (today, usually shredded potatoes) sautéed on both sides until crisp and browned. Rösti potatoes are pressed into a flattened pancake shape while browning.
rack of lamb
A portion of the rib section of a lamb, usually containing eight ribs. A rack of lamb can be cut into chops or served in one piece either as a rack or formed into a crown roast. See also lamb.
raclette
1. A cow's-milk cheese from Switzerland that's similar to gruyère in both texture (semifirm and dotted with small holes) and flavor (mellow and nutty). It can be found in specialty cheese stores and many supermarkets. 2. A dish by the same name consisting of a chunk of raclette cheese that is exposed to heat (traditionally an open fire) and scraped off as it melts. (Electric raclette machines are also available.) The word raclette comes from racler, French for "to scrape." It's served as a meal with boiled potatoes, dark bread and cornichons or other pickled vegetables.
radiatore
Italian for "little radiators" referring culinarily to short, chunky pasta shapes (about 1 inch long and 1/2 inch in diameter) that resemble tiny radiators with rippled edges.
radicchio
This red-leafed Italian chicory is most often used as a salad green. There are several varieties of radicchio, but the two most widely available in the United States are Verona and Treviso. The radicchio di Verona has burgundy-red leaves with white ribs. It grows in a small, loose head similar to butterhead lettuce. The leaves of radicchio di Treviso are narrow and pointed and form tighter, more tapered heads. They also have white ribs but can range in color from pink to dark red. Other radicchio varieties have variegated or speckled leaves in beautiful shades of pink, red and green. All radicchios have tender but firm leaves with a slightly bitter flavor. Radicchio is available year-round, with a peak season from midwinter to early spring. Choose heads that have crisp, full-colored leaves with no sign of browning. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Besides being used in salads, radicchio may also be cooked by grilling, sautéing or baking.
radish
From the Latin radix, meaning "root," the radish is in fact the root of a plant in the mustard family. Its skin can vary in color from white to red to purple to black (and many shades in between). In shape and size, the radish can be round, oval or elongated and can run the gamut from globes 1/2 inch in diameter to carrotlike giants (such as the daikon) 1 1/2 feet in length. The most common variety found in American markets is the globular or oval-shaped red-skinned radish, which ranges in size from that of a small cherry to that of a tiny orange. The flavor can be mild to peppery, depending on factors such as variety and age. Available year-round, radishes are sold both trimmed (in plastic bags) and with their greens and roots attached. Choose those that feel firm when gently squeezed. If the radish gives to pressure, the interior will likely be pithy instead of crisp. Any attached leaves should be green and crisp. Remove and discard leaves and refrigerate radishes in a plastic bag for up to 5 days. Wash and trim root ends just before using. For added crispness, soak radishes in icewater for a couple of hours. Though radishes are most often used raw in salads, as garnishes and for crudités, they can also be cooked. Radish sprouts can be used as a peppery accent to salads and as a garnish for a variety of cold and hot dishes. They can be found in specialty produce markets, health-food stores and some supermarkets.
Ragoût
A thick, seasoned stew of meat or fish, sometimes with vegetables.
ragoût
A derivative of the French verb ragoûter, meaning "to stimulate the appetite," ragoût is a thick, rich, well-seasoned stew of meat, poultry or fish that can be made with or without vegetables.
Ragu
Tomato and meat sauce from Bologna.
raisin
In the most basic terms, a raisin is simply a dried grape. About half of the world's raisin supply comes from California. The most common grapes used for raisins are thompson seedless, zante and muscat. Grapes are either sun-dried or dehydrated mechanically. Both dark and golden seedless raisins can be made from Thompson seedless grapes. The difference is that the dark raisins are sun-dried for several weeks, thereby producing their shriveled appearance and dark color. Golden raisins have been treated with sulphur dioxide (to prevent their color from darkening) and dried with artificial heat, thereby producing a moister, plumper product. The tiny seedless Zante grapes produce dried currants, and muscat grapes (which usually have their seeds removed before processing) create a dark, perfumy and intensely sweet raisin. All raisins can be stored tightly wrapped at room temperature for several months. For prolonged storage (up to a year), they should be refrigerated in a tightly sealed plastic bag. Raisins can be eaten out of hand, as well as used in a variety of baked goods and in cooked and raw dishes. They have a high natural sugar content, contain a variety of vitamins and minerals and are especially rich in iron. See also currants.
raita
yogurt salads popular in India, raitas are a combination of thick, whole-milk yogurt and various chopped vegetables like cucumbers, eggplant, potatoes or spinach, or fruits such as bananas or tomatoes. These salads are variously seasoned with black mustard seeds, garam masala and herbs such as chervil, coriander, cumin, dill, mint, parsley or tarragon. Raitas are designed to be a cooling counterbalance for many spicy Indian dishes.
rakkyo; rakyo
A type of Japanese shallot, which is usually uncooked and pickled in light vinegar. Most often used as a garnish with grilled fish and meat. Rakkyo can be found in Asian markets.
ramekin
1. An individual baking dish (3 to 4 inches in diameter) that resembles a miniature soufflé dish. Ramekins are usually made of porcelain or earthenware and can be used for both sweet and savory dishes either baked or chilled. 2. A tiny baked pastry filled with a creamy cheese custard.
ramen
1. Asian instant-style deep-fried noodles that are usually sold in cellophane packages, sometimes with bits of dehydrated vegetables and broth mix. 2. A Japanese dish of noodles, small pieces of meat and vegetables and broth.
Ramp
A wild onion.
ranchero sauce
A picant tomato-based sauce that includes onions, green chiles such as serranos or jalepeños and seasonings. This Mexican salsa is most often associated with the dish, huevos rancheros.
rape
1. Another name for broccoli raab. 2. The residue of grape stalks, stems and skins after the juice has been extracted for winemaking.
rapeseed oil
Rapeseed oil, expressed from rape seeds, is commonly marketed under the name canola oil. Once used only in parts of Europe and the Middle East, rapeseed oil has been discovered to have more cholesterol-balancing monounsaturated fat than any other oil except olive oil. See also canola oil.
rapini
Another name for brocoli raab.
ras el hanout
An exotic and complex Moroccan spice blend that, depending on the preparer, can contain up to 50 ingredients. Ras el hanout means "head of the shop," purportedly because shop owners create their own unique blend, which can include ginger, anise, cinnamon, nutmeg, peppercorns, cloves, cardamom, dried flowers (such as lavender and rose), nigella, mace, galangal and turmeric. Traditionally, this spice blend also includes aphrodisiacs like the Spanish fly beetle.
rascasse
This firm, white-fleshed member of the scorpion fish family is abundant in the Mediterranean. The French red rascasse has been made famous as an indispensable ingredient in bouillabaisse. See also fish.
raspberry
Considered by many the most intensely flavored member of the berry family, the raspberry is composed of many connecting drupelets (individual sections of fruit, each with its own seed) surrounding a central core. There are three main varieties black, golden and red, the latter being the most widely available. Depending on the region, raspberries are available from May through November. Choose brightly colored, plump berries sans hull. If the hulls are still attached, the berries were picked too early and will undoubtedly be tart. Avoid soft, shriveled or moldy berries. Store (preferably in a single layer) in a moistureproof container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. If necessary, rinse lightly just before serving. Raspberries are very fragile and are at their best served fresh with just a kiss of cream. They also make excellent jam. Seedless raspberry jam is available commercially. The berries contain a fair amount of iron, potassium and vitamins A and C.
Ratatouille
A Provençal dish of eggplant, onions, bell peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, and herbs in olive oil.
ravioli
An Italian specialty of little square or round pillows of noodle dough filled with any of various mixtures such as cheese, meat or vegetables. Ravioli are boiled, then usually baked with a cream, cheese or tomato sauce. Chinese-style ravioli are called won tons; Jewish-style are known as kreplach. See also pasta.
Reblochon cheese
This uncooked French cows' milk cheese has a creamy-soft texture and a delicate flavor when perfectly ripe. It becomes bitter, however, when overripe. Reblochon has a dark golden rind and is sold in small discs. It's available in most specialty cheese shops and is good both for snacks and with fruit. See also cheese.
reconstitute
Culinarily, the term means to return a dehydrated food (such as dried milk) to its original consistency by adding a liquid, usually water.
red beans
Popular in Mexico and the southwestern United States, this dark red, medium-size bean is a favorite for making chili con carne (with beans) and refried beans (refritos ). Red beans are available dried in most supermarkets. See also beans; red beans and rice.
red beans and rice
One of Louisiana's best-known contributions to American regional cuisine, this dish combines red kidney beans, water, cured or smoked meats, onions and seasonings (usually including cayenne). This mélange is slowly simmered until tender and flavorful. The beans, which create a thick natural gravy, are served with bits of cured meat over white rice. This dish was purportedly so loved by famous trumpeteer Louis Armstrong that he used to sign his personal letters "Red beans and ricely yours."
red cooking
A Chinese cooking method whereby food (such as chicken) is browned in soy sauce, thereby changing the color to a deep, dark red.
Red Delicious apple
This large, brilliant red (sometimes streaked with green) apple has an elongated shape with five distinctive knobs at its base. It's juicy and sweet but lacks any distinguishing tartness. The Red Delicious is in season from September through April. It's good for eating out of hand but does not cook well. See also apple; golden delicious apple.
red flannel hash
A New England specialty made by frying chopped cooked beets, potatoes, onions and crisp cured meat together until crusty and brown. Traditional recipes state that about 85 percent of the volume should be beets. Red flannel hash is usually served with cornbread.
Red Mullet
This reddish-pink marine fish is not really a true mullet but a Mediterranean member of the goatfish family. The red mullet ranges in size from 1/2 to 2 pounds and has very firm, lean flesh. It's found on menus all over Europe but is rarely available in the United States.
red pepper; red pepper flakes
A generic term applied to any of several varieties of hot, red chili peppers. The most commonly available forms are ground red pepper and red pepper flakes.
redeye gravy
A traditional southern gravy made by combining the drippings from fried cured meat with water and hot coffee the latter being optional. The mixture is cooked until thickened. It's served with the cured meat and spooned atop biscuits, cornbread... and whatever else the diner fancies.
reduce
Culinarily, to boil a liquid (usually stock, wine or a sauce mixture) rapidly until the volume is reduced by evaporation, thereby thickening the consistency and intensifying the flavor. Such a mixture is sometimes referred to as a reduction.
refried beans; frijoles refritos; refritos
This popular Mexican specialty consists of cooked red beans or pinto beans that are mashed, then fried, often in melted lard. Refried beans are sold canned in most supermarkets. The term frijoles refritos translates as "refried beans."
refrigerator cookie
Also called icebox cookie, this style of cookie is made by forming the dough into a log, wrapping in plastic wrap or waxed paper and chilling until firm. The dough is then sliced into rounds and baked. See also cookie.
render
To melt animal fat over low heat so that it separates from any connective pieces of tissue, which, during rendering, turn brown and crisp and are generally referred to as cracklings. The resulting clear fat is then strained through a paper filter or fine cheesecloth to remove any dark particles. The term try out is used synonymously with render.
rennin
A coagulating enzyme obtained from a young animal's (usually a calf's) stomach, rennin is used to curdle milk in foods such as cheese and junket. It's available in most supermarkets in tablet or powdered form.
restaurateur
A restaurant owner or manager. A popular misconception is that the word is pronounced the same as "restaurant," whereas in actuality, there is no "n" in restaurateur.
retsina
Made for more than 3,000 years, this traditional Greek wine has been resinated treated with pine-tree resin. The resin gives the wine a distinctively sappy, turpentinelike flavor that, according to most non-Greeks, is an acquired taste. Retsinas are either white or rosé and should be served very cold.
Rhône wines
Wines from France's Rhône region, which follows the Rhône river for approximately 125 miles in southeastern France. The northern part of the region contains many great individual appellations including Côte Rôtie, Condrieu, Château Grillet, Saint-Joseph and Hermitage. The dominant grapes here are syrah for red wines and Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier for whites. The most famous appellation in the south is Châteauneuf-du-pape. Most of the vineyards in the southern Rhône produce wines covered by the Côtes du rhône appellation. In the southern Rhône the principal red grape is Grenache. The white grapes used include Bourboulenc, Clairette, Marsanne, Muscardine, Picardan, Roussanne and Piquepoul (or Picpoule ).
Rhode Island Greening apple
This medium-size, green to yellow green apple has a sweet-tart flavor that seems to intensify when cooked. Because both texture and flavor hold up to heat, most of the Rhode Island greening crop is sold for commercial processing (applesauce, pies, etc.). It's also good for out-of-hand eating and is available from October to April, mainly in the eastern and central United States A variant grown in the western half of the country is called Northwest Greening. See also apple.
rhubarb
The thick, celerylike stalks of this buckwheat-family member can reach up to 2 feet long. They're the only edible portion of the plant the leaves contain oxalic acid and can therefore be toxic. Though rhubarb is generally eaten as a fruit, it's botanically a vegetable. There are many varieties of this extremely tart food, most of which fall into two basic types hothouse and field grown. Hothouse rhubarb is distinguished by its pink to pale red stalks and yellow-green leaves, whereas field-grown plants (which are more pronounced in flavor) have cherry red stalks and green leaves. Hothouse rhubarb is available in some regions almost year-round. The field-grown plant can usually be found from late winter to early summer, with a peak from April to June. Choose crisp stalks that are brightly hued. The leaves should be fresh-looking and blemish-free. Highly perishable, fresh rhubarb should be refrigerated, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to 3 days. Wash and remove leaves just before using. Because of its intense tartness, rhubarb is usually combined with a considerable amount of sugar. It makes delicious sauces, jams and desserts and in some regions is also known as pieplant because of its popularity for that purpose. In America, a traditional flavor combination is rhubarb and strawberries; in Britain, rhubarb and ginger. Rhubarb contains a fair amount of vitamin A.
rib
1. The meat cut (beef, lamb or veal) from between the short loin and the chuck. Chops, steaks and roasts (depending on the animal) are cut from the rib section, which is very tender. See also rib roast; rib steak. 2. A single stalk of a celery bunch, though some cooks refer to the entire bunch as a rib. In general, the words rib and stalk describe the same thing.
rib roast
A beef roast from the rib section between the short loin and the chuck. The three most popular styles are standing rib roast, rolled rib roast and rib-eye roast. The standing rib roast usually includes at least three ribs (less than that is really just a very thick steak). It's roasted standing upright, resting on its rack of ribs, thereby allowing the top layer of fat to melt and self-baste the meat. A rolled rib roast has had the bones removed before being rolled and tied into a cylinder. Removing the bones also slightly diminishes the flavor of this roast. The boneless rib-eye roast is the center, most desirable and tender portion of the rib section. Therefore, it's also the most expensive. Many rib roasts are often inappropriately labeled prime rib. In fact, they can't be called prime rib unless the cut actually comes from usda Prime beef rarely found in meat markets today. See also beef.
rib steak
This tender, flavorful beef steak is a boneless cut from the rib section (between the short loin and the chuck). If the bones are removed the result is the extremely tender rib-eye steak. Both should be quickly cooked by grilling, broiling or frying. See also beef; rib roast;.
ribbon
A cooking term describing the texture of an egg-and-sugar mixture that has been beaten until pale and extremely thick. When the beater or whisk is lifted, the batter falls slowly back onto the surface of the mixture, forming a ribbonlike pattern that, after a few seconds, sinks back into the batter.
Ribier grape
One of America's bestselling grapes, the Ribier is large, round and has a tough blue-black skin. The flesh is juicy, sweet and contains a few seeds. Ribier grapes are in season from July to February. See also grape.
ribollita
The word ribollita means "twice boiled," referring to the fact that this Tuscan soup was originally simply leftover minestrone, reheated the next day and mixed with chunks of bread. But today this rich, thick soup is much more than "leftovers." Slices or chunks of garlic-rubbed bread can be layered either with minestrone, but also simply with chicken broth, parmesan cheese and cooked vegetables and white beans. The entire mixture is baked until bubbly hot, then served with a drizzle of olive oil.
rice
n. This ancient and venerable grain has been cultivated since at least 5000 b.c., and archaeological explorations in China have uncovered sealed pots of rice that are almost 8,000 years old. Today, rice is a staple for almost half the world's population particularly in parts of China, India, Indonesia, Japan and Southeast Asia. The 7,000-plus varieties of rice are grown in one of two ways. Aquatic rice (paddy-grown) is cultivated in flooded fields. The lower-yielding, lower-quality hill-grown rice can be grown on almost any tropical or subtropical terrain. The major rice-growing states in the United States are Arkansas, California, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri and Texas. Rice is commercially classified by its size long-, medium- or short-grain. The length of long-grain rice is four to five times that of its width. There are both white and brown varieties of long-grain rice, which, when cooked, produce light, dry grains that separate easily. One of the more exotic varieties in the long-grain category is the perfumy East Indian basmati rice. Short-grain rice has fat, almost round grains that have a higher starch content than either the long- or medium-grain varieties. When cooked, it tends to be quite moist and viscous, causing the grains to stick together. This variety (also called pearl rice and glutinous rice, though it's gluten-free) is preferred in the Orient because it's easy to handle with chopsticks. Italian arborio rice used to make creamy risottos and the Japanese mochi are also varieties of short-grain rice. Medium-grain rice, as could be expected from its name, has a size and character between the other two. It's shorter and moister than long-grain and generally not as starchy as short-grain. Though fairly fluffy right after being cooked, medium-grain rice begins to clump once it starts to cool. Rice can be further divided into two other broad categories brown and white. Brown rice is the entire grain with only the inedible outer husk removed. The nutritious, high-fiber bran coating gives it a light tan color, nutlike flavor and chewy texture. The presence of the bran means that brown rice is subject to rancidity, which limits its shelf life to only about 6 months. It also takes slightly longer to cook (about 30 minutes total) than regular white long-grain rice. There is a quick brown rice (which has been partially cooked, then dehydrated) that cooks in only about 15 minutes, and an instant brown rice that takes only 10 minutes. White rice has had the husk, bran and germ removed. Regular white rice is sometimes referred to as polished rice. For converted or parboiled white rice, the unhulled grain has been soaked, pressure-steamed and dried before milling. This treatment gelatinizes the starch in the grain (for fluffy, separated cooked rice) and infuses some of the nutrients of the bran and germ into the kernel's heart. Converted rice has a pale beige cast and takes slightly longer to cook than regular white rice. Talc-coated rice is white rice that has a coating of talc and glucose, which gives it a glossy appearance. The coating acts as a preservative and the practice was once widely used to protect exported rice during long sea voyages. Today coated rice (which is clearly labeled as such) is available only in a few ethnic markets, usually those specializing in South American foods. It must be thoroughly rinsed before being cooked, as there is a chance that the talc can be contaminated with asbestos. Instant or quick white rice has been fully or partially cooked before being dehydrated and packaged. It takes only a few minutes to prepare but delivers lackluster results in both flavor and texture. Rice bran, the grain's outer layer, is high in soluble fiber and research indicates that, like oat bran, it's effective in lowering cholesterol. Rice should be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark, dry place. White rice can be stored this way almost indefinitely, brown rice up to 6 months. The life of the latter can be extended considerably by refrigeration. Rice can be prepared in a multitude of ways, the method greatly depending on the type of rice. Consult a general cookbook for cooking directions. Rice, which is cholesterol- and gluten-free, is low in sodium, contains only a trace of fat and is an excellent source of complex carbohydrates. Enriched or converted rice contains calcium, iron and many B-complex vitamins, with brown rice being slightly richer in all the nutrients. See also aromatic rice; jasmine rice; rice flour; rizcous; texmati rice; wehani rice; wild rice; wild pecan rice. rice v. To push cooked food through a perforated kitchen utensil called a ricer. The result is food that looks vaguely ricelike.
rice flour
Regular rice flour is a fine, powdery flour made from regular white rice. It's used mainly for baked goods. Glutinous or sweet rice flour (such as the Japanese mochi) is made from high-starch short-grain rice. It's widely used in Asian cooking to thicken sauces and for some desserts.
rice paper
An edible, translucent paper made from a dough of water combined with the pith of an Asian shrub called, appropriately enough, the rice-paper plant (or rice-paper tree). rice flour is sometimes also used. The paper comes in various sizes small to large, round or square. Rice paper can be used to wrap foods to be eaten as is or deep-fried. It's also useful as a baking-sheet liner on which delicate cookies are baked. After baking, the cookies may be removed from the sheet without damage and the flavorless rice paper (which sticks to the cookies' bottoms) eaten along with the confection. Rice paper can be found in Asian markets and some supermarkets.
rice vinegar
There are Japanese as well as Chinese rice vinegars, both made from fermented rice, and both slightly milder than most Western vinegars. Chinese rice vinegar comes in three types: white (clear or pale amber), used mainly in sweet-and-sour dishes; red, a popular accompaniment for boiled or steamed fish; and black, used mainly as a table condiment. The almost colorless Japanese rice vinegar is used in a variety of Japanese preparations, including sushi rice and sunomono (vinegared salads). Rice vinegar can be found in Asian markets and some supermarkets.
rice wine
A sweet, golden wine made from fermenting freshly steamed glutinous rice. Most rice wines are low in alcohol. The most well-known Japanese rice wines are sake and mirin, while Chinese renditions include Chia Fan, Hsiang Hsueh, Shan Niang and Yen Hung.
rice-flour noodles
These extremely thin Chinese noodles resemble long, translucent white hairs. When deep-fried, they explode dramatically into a tangle of airy, crunchy strands that are a traditional ingredient in Chinese chicken salad. Rice-flour noodles can also be presoaked and used in soups and stir fries. The term rice sticks is generally applied to rice-flour noodles that are about 1/4-inch wide. Rice-flour noodles can be found in Asian markets and some supermarkets. They're usually sold in coiled nests packaged in cellophane. See also asian noodles.
ricer
Also called a potato ricer, this kitchen utensil resembles a large garlic press. Cooked food such as potatoes, carrots or turnips is placed in the container. A lever-operated plunger is pushed down into the food, forcing it out through numerous tiny holes in the bottom of the container. The result is food that (vaguely) resembles grains of rice. Ricers come in a variety of shapes, the most common being a 3- to 4-inch round basket or a V-shaped bucket. They're generally made of chromed steel or cast aluminum and can be found in specialty cookware shops.
rickey
A drink made with lime (sometimes lemon) juice, soda water and liquor, usually gin or whiskey. If sugar is added, the drink becomes a Tom collins. A nonalcoholic rickey always has sugar or sugar syrup added to it.
ricotta cheese
This rich fresh cheese is slightly grainy but smoother than cottage cheese. It's white, moist and has a slightly sweet flavor. Most Italian ricottas are made from the whey drained off while making cheeses such as mozzarella and provolone. Technically, this type of ricotta is not really cheese because it's made from a cheese by-product. In the United States, ricottas are usually made with a combination of whey and whole or skim milk. The word ricotta means "recooked," and is derived from the fact that the cheese is made by heating the whey from another cooked cheese. Ricotta is a popular ingredient in many Italian savory preparations like lasagna and manicotti, as well as desserts like cassata and cheesecake. See also cheese.
Riesling
Riesling is considered one of the world's great white wine grapes and produces some of the very best white wines. It's a native of Germany, where it's believed to have been cultivated for at least 500 and possibly as long as 2,000 years. Riesling wines are delicate but complex, and characterized by a spicy, fruity flavor, flower-scented bouquet and long finish. Riesling is vinified in a variety of styles ranging from dry to very sweet. In Germany, these sweet wines which are usually affected by botrytis cinerea- are graded in ascending order of sweetness as auslese, beerenauslese and trockenbeerenauslese. California winemakers now produce high-quality, German-style Rieslings, which are lighter, more delicate, and slightly to medium-sweet. Because the name "Riesling" is used in many ways, it's sometimes difficult to find wines truly made from this variety. In California, for instance, Johannisberg Riesling is the true Riesling, whereas Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are actually other varieties. A bottle of California wine labeled simply "Riesling" usually means that the wine's made from one of the lesser varieties, not Johannisberg Riesling.
rigatoni
Short, grooved tubes of macaroni. See also pasta.
rijsttafel
Dutch for "rice table," rijst-tafel is the Dutch version of an Indonesian meal consisting of hot rice accompanied by a profusion of small, well-seasoned side dishes such as steamed or fried fish and meats, vegetables, fruits, sauces, condiments, etc. The Dutch adopted this style of dining during their occupation of Indonesia in the 18th and 19th centuries.
Rillettes
Meat that is cooked in seasoned fat then pounded into a paste and packed into ramekins and covered with a thin layer of fat.
ripieni
Italian for foods that are "stuffed," such as peperoni ripieni "stuffed peppers."
ris
French for "sweetbreads." Ris de veau are from a calf, ris d'agneau from a lamb.
riso
Rice-shape pasta, similar to orzo.
Risotto
Italian dish made from rice cooked by intermittently adding small amounts of stock or broth. Other ingredients are added as required.
rissolé
Food that has been fried until crisp and brown.
rissole
1. Sweet- or savory-filled pastry (often shaped like a turnover) that is fried or baked and served as an appetizer, side dish or dessert (depending on the size and filling). 2. Small, partially cooked potato balls that are browned in butter until crisp.
ristra
A Spanish term referring to a handstrung rope of foods, primarily chiles or heads of garlic. Though ristras are used for decoration, many people let the chiles dry and use them in cooking, pulling them off one-by-one from the bottom. Dried garlic ristras are used strictly for decoration.
riz
French for "rice."
riz à l'impératrice
1. French for "rice as the empress likes it," riz à l'impératrice is a very rich rice pudding made with vanilla custard, whipped cream and crystallized fruit (which is often soaked in kirsch). 2. The term à l'impératrice is used to describe a variety of rich sweet or savory dishes.
Rizcous
Produced in California, Rizcous is a product composed of broken brown rice grains. In its cooked form, it resembles its namesake, couscous.
roast
n. 1. A piece of meat such as a rib roast that's large enough to serve more than one person. Such a meat cut is usually cooked by the roasting method. 2. Food, usually meat, that has been prepared by roasting. roast v. To oven-cook food in an uncovered pan, a method that usually produces a well-browned exterior and ideally a moist interior. Roasting requires reasonably tender pieces of meat or poultry. Tougher pieces of meat need moist cooking methods such as braising.
roasting rack
A slightly raised rack usually made of stainless steel that elevates meat above the pan in which it's roasting. This prevents the meat from cooking in any drippings and allows adequate air circulation for even cooking and browning. Roasting racks can be flat, V-shaped or adjustable so they can be used either way.
Rob Roy
A cocktail made with scotch, sweet vermouth and bitters. It's sometimes called a Scotch Manhattan because it substitutes scotch for the bourbon used in the standard manhattan recipe.
rocambole
Also called sand leek and giant garlic, rocambole has LEEKlike bulbs that taste like mild garlic. It grows wild (and is sometimes cultivated) throughout Europe and may be used in any way suitable for garlic. Rocambole is rarely commercially available in the United States.
rock and rye
An American rye whiskey-based liqueur flavored with lemon or orange essence and distinguished by a chunk of rock candy in the bottom of each bottle.
rock bun
Also called rock cake, this spicy British cross between a cookie and a small cake is full of coarsely chopped dried fruit. It's baked in small mounds, which, after baking, take on a rocklike appearance.
rock candy
A simple hard candy made by allowing a concentrated sugar syrup to evaporate slowly (sometimes for up to a week), during which time it crystallizes into chunks. The crystals can be formed around strings or small sticks (the latter can be used as stir sticks for sweet drinks). Small rock-candy crystals can be used as a fancy sweetener for tea or coffee. rock and rye liqueur has a large chunk of rock candy in the bottom of the bottle. Rock candy can be made at home or purchased in candy shops.
rock sugar
Not as sweet as regular granulated sugar, rock sugar comes in the form of amber-colored crystals, the result of sugar cooked until it begins to color. It's used to sweeten certain Chinese teas and meat glazes. See also sugar.
Rocket
See "Arugula."
rockfish
1. With over 50 varieties, this is the largest of the Pacific Coast fish families. The lowfat rockfish can be broken down into two broad categories deep-bodied and elongated. The flesh of the deep-bodied varieties (such as yellowtail, blue rockfish and goldeneye) is firmer and more full-flavored than the softer, milder flesh of the elongated species (like bocaccio, chilipepper and shortbelly). Rockfish range widely in color from reddish-pink with black-tipped fins to orange-mottled brown to dark olive green with bright yellow fins. They average from 5 to 15 pounds and are sold whole or in fillets. The firm-fleshed rockfish is suitable for virtually any cooking method, whereas the softer flesh of the elongated varieties must be handled gently preferrably baked or poached. Some rockfish are marketed as "Pacific snapper" or "Pacific red snapper," but they are not related to the true Atlantic red snapper. 2. striped bass is also referred to as "rockfish."
rocky road
A bumpy-textured candy that's a mixture of miniature marshmallows, nuts and sometimes small chunks of dark, white or milk chocolate. The candy is so named because it resembles a "rocky road" in appearance. This favorite flavor combination is also used for a number of desserts from ice cream to pies.
roe
This delicacy falls into two categories hard roe and soft roe. Hard roe is female fish eggs, while soft roe (also called white roe ) is the milt of male fish. Roe can range in size from 1 to 2 ounces to over 3 pounds. If the fish is small, the roe is cooked inside the whole fish. The roe of medium and large fish is usually removed and cooked separately. Most fish roe is edible but others are toxic. The choicest roe comes from carp, herring, mackerel and shad, but those from cod, flounder, haddock, lumpfish, mullet, perch, pike, salmon, and whitefish also have their fans. Salting roe transforms it into caviar. Roe is marketed fresh, frozen and canned. Fresh roe is available in the spring. It should have a clean smell and look moist and firm. The extremely fragile membrane that holds the eggs or milt must be gently washed before preparation. Roe can be sautéed, poached or, providing it's medium-size or larger, broiled. It can also be used in sauces.
Roesti
Pan-fried potatoes.
roll out
A baking term that describes the technique of using a rolling pin to flatten a dough (such as for a pie crust or cookies) into a thin, even layer.
rolled cookie
A cookie that begins by rolling a rather firm dough into an even, thick to thin layer. A cookie cutter is then used to cut the rolled-out dough into various shapes before baking. See also cookie.
rolling pin
Though this kitchen tool is used mainly to roll out dough, it's also handy for a number of other culinary tasks including crushing crackers and bread crumbs, shaping cookies like tuiles and flattening meats such as chicken breasts. Rolling pins can be made of almost any material including brass, ceramic, copper, glass, marble, plastic and porcelain. The favored material, however, is hardwood. The heavier pins deliver the best results because their weight and balance produce smoother doughs with less effort. There are many rolling pin styles but by far the most popular and easiest for most people to use are the American or bakers' rolling pins. Those of higher quality are characterized by sturdy handles anchored with a steel rod running through the center of the pin and fitted with ball bearings. Many professional cooks prefer the straight French rolling pin (a solid piece of hardwood sans handles) because they get the "feel" of the dough under their palms. The tapered rolling pin is larger in the center and tapers to both ends, which allows it to be rotated during the rolling process a feature particularly useful for rolling circles of dough. There are also "cool" rolling pins made of ceramic, marble, glass or plastic, some of which are hollow and can be filled with ice or iced water. These special-purpose pins are designed to work with delicate pastry doughs that become difficult as they warm.
romaine lettuce
Because it's said to have originated on the Aegean island of Cos, romaine is also called Cos lettuce. Romaine's elongated head has dark green outer leaves that lighten to pale celadon in the center. The leaves are crisp and slightly bitter and the crunchy midrib is particularly succulent. Romaine adds crunch and flavor to mixed green salads and is the lettuce of choice for caesar salads. See also lettuce.
Romanesca cauliflower; Romanesco
Though classified as (and also called) a summer cauliflower, this vegetable's appearance is so uniquely striking that it deserves its own listing. Like regular cauliflower, Romanesca has a tightly compact head of florets attached by clusters of stalks but there the similarity in appearance ends. Romanesca, which hails from northern Italy, is a beautiful pale lime green color; its florets, rather than being rounded, rise in a pyramid of pointed, spiraling cones. Its flavor is somewhat more delicate than that of regular cauliflower. Romanesca is available only briefly from September through November. Choose a firm head with crisp leaves. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Romanesca can be cooked in any fashion suitable for regular cauliflower. It makes beautiful crudités, and is stunning cooked whole. See also broccoflower; cauliflower.
Romano cheese
There are several different styles of Romano cheese, all of which take their name from the city of Rome. Probably the best known is the sharp, tangy pecorino Romano, made with sheep's milk. Caprino Romano is an extremely sharp goat's-milk version, vacchino Romano a very mild cow's-milk cheese. Most U.S. Romanos are made of cow's milk or a combination of cow's milk and goat's or sheep's milk. In general, the pale yellow Romano is very firm and mostly used for grating. See also cheese; pecorino cheese.
Rome Beauty apple
In season from November through May, the Rome Beauty apple has a deep red skin with some yellow speckling. The off-white flesh ranges from tender to mealy, its flavor from mildly tart to sweet and bland. It holds it shape well when cooked and for that reason is often the fruit of choice for baked apples or for other cooked dishes. See also apple.
Romesco
Catalonian sauce of finely ground tomatoes, red bell peppers, onion, garlic, almonds and olive oil.
root beer
Created in the mid-1800s by Philadelphia pharmacist Charles Hires, the original root beer was a (very) low-alcohol, naturally effervescent beverage made by fermenting a blend of sugar and yeast with various roots, herbs and barks such as sarsaparilla, sassafras, wild cherry, wintergreen and ginger. Today's commercial root beer is completely nonalcoholic and generally contains sugar, caramel coloring, a combination of artificial and natural flavorings (including some of those originally used) and carbonated water for sparkle.
Roquefort cheese
If not the "king of cheeses" as many proclaim, Roquefort is at least one of the oldest and best known in the world. This blue cheese has been enjoyed since Roman times and was a favorite of Charlemagne. It is made from sheep's milk that is exposed to a mold known as Penicillium roqueforti and aged for 3 months or more in the limestone caverns of Mount Combalou near the village of Roquefort in southwestern France. This is the only place true Roquefort can be aged. Roquefort has a creamy-rich texture and pungent, piquant, somewhat salty flavor. It has a creamy white interior with blue veins and a snowy white rind. It's sold in squat foil-wrapped cylinders. True Roquefort can be authenticated by a red sheep on the wrapper's emblem. The name "Roquefort" is protected by law from imitators of this remarkable cheese. For example, salad dressings made from blue cheese other than Roquefort cannot be labeled "Roquefort dressing." In addition to salad dressings, Roquefort can be used in a wide variety of preparations from savory breads to canape spreads. Aficionados love Roquefort at the end of a meal served only with a fine sauternes, port or other dessert wine.
rosé wines
Rosé wines are usually made from red grapes but contrary to the normal process of making red wine the skins and stems are removed almost immediately, usually within 2 to 3 days. This brief contact with the skins and stems gives the wine its light pink (or rose) color. It also, however, is the reason that rosés lack the body and character of most red or white wines. In general, rosé wines are very light-bodied and slightly sweet. They should be served chilled and can accompany a variety of lightly flavored foods. In the United States, the term blush wine has all but replaced that of "rosé."
rose hip
Though too tart to eat raw, the ripe reddish-orange fruit of the rose (especially the wild or dog rose) is often used to make jellies and jams, syrup, tea and even wine. Because they're an excellent source of vitamin C, rose hips are also dried and ground into powder (and sometimes compressed into tablets) and sold in health-food stores.
rose water
A distillation of rose petals that has the intensely perfumy flavor and fragrance of its source. Rose water has been a popular flavoring for centuries in the cuisines of the Middle East, India and China. In addition to culinary uses, rose water is also used in religious ceremonies and as a fragrance in some cosmetics.
rosemary
Used since 500 b.c., rosemary is native to the Mediterranean area (where it grows wild) but is now cultivated throughout Europe and the United States. Early on, this mint-family member was used to cure ailments of the nervous system. Rosemary's silver-green, needle-shaped leaves are highly aromatic and their flavor hints of both lemon and pine. This herb is available in whole-leaf form (fresh and dried) as well as powdered. Rosemary essence is used both to flavor food and to scent cosmetics. Rosemary can be used as a seasoning in a variety of dishes including fruit salads, soups, vegetables, meat (particularly lamb), fish and egg dishes, stuffings and dressings. See also herbs; herb and spice chart; A field guide to herbs.
rosette; rosette iron
A small fried pastry made by dipping a rosette iron first into a thin, sweet batter, then into hot deep fat. When the mixture turns crisp and golden brown, the rosette is removed from the iron and drained on paper towels. While warm, these pastries are usually sprinkled with cinnamon-sugar. A nonsweetened batter may be used to make savory rosettes, which can be sprinkled with salt and served as an appetizer. A rosette iron has a long metal rod with a heatproof handle at one end and various decorative shapes (such as a butterfly, heart, star or flower) that can be attached to the other end.
Rossini
Dishes that include foie gras, truffles and a demi-glace sauce either as an integral part or as a garnish are tagged with this appellation. tournedos Rossini and eggs Rossini are two popular examples. Such dishes were named after 19th-century Italian composer Gioacchino Rossini because of his passionate love of food.
rotary beater
A hand-powered kitchen utensil with two beaters connected to a gear-driven wheel with a handle all of which is attached to a housing topped with a handle-grip. The rotary beater requires two hands to operate one to hold the unit, the other to turn the wheel. As the gear-driven wheel is turned, the two beaters rotate, providing aeration that can whip cream, eggs, batters, etc. The best roatary beaters have rounded, stainless-steel hoops and nylon gears. Others are made of cast aluminum, chromed steel or plastic.
rotelle
Small round pasta which resembles a wheel with spokes.
Roti
Unleavened, griddle-cooked Indian bread.
rotini
Short (about 1 1/2 inches) spaghetti spirals. See also pasta.
rotisserie
1. A unit that cooks food while it slowly rotates. A rotisserie contains a spit fitted with a pair of prongs that slide along its length. Food (usually meat) is impaled on the spit and the prongs (which are inserted on each side of the food) are screwed tightly into place to hold the food securely. Modern rotisseries have a motor that automatically turns the shaft, while their predecessors relied on humanpower. Many ovens and outdoor barbecue units have built-in electric rotisseries. This type of cooking allows heat to circulate evenly around the food while it self-bastes with its own juices. 2. A restaurant or meat shop that specializes in roasted meats. 3. The area where roasting is done (usually in a large restaurant kitchen), often by specially trained chefs (rôtisseurs ).
Rouille
The French word for "rust" describes the color of this spicy sauce made of hot chiles, garlic, breadcrumbs and olive oil and generally diluted with fish stock.
Roulade
alt spellings: PaupietteA French term for a thin roll of meat or cake around savory or sweet fillings.
Rouladen
Germany's version of the French roulade. Rouladen comes in many variations, such as Rindsrouladen slices of beef rolled around a pickle, onion and smoked meat mixture, and Kohlrouladen cabbage leaves rolled around a ground beef mixture.
round, beef
This section of the hind leg of beef extends from the rump to the ankle. Since the leg has been toughened by exercise, the round is less tender than some cuts. There are six major sections into which the round can be divided: the rump; the four main muscles (top round, sirloin tip, bottom round and eye of round); and the heel. The rump is a triangular cut taken from the upper part of the round. This flavorful section is generally cut into rump steaks or two or three roasts that, when boned and rolled, are referred to as rump roasts. Those with the bone in are called standing rump roasts. Pieces from the rump section are best cooked by moist-heat methods. The top round, which lies on the inside of the leg, is the most tender of the four muscles in the round. Thick top-round cuts are often called butterball steak or London broil, whereas thin cuts are referred to simply as top round steak. The boneless sirloin tip is also called top sirloin, triangle and loin tip. The better grades can be oven-roasted; otherwise moist-heat methods should be used. The bottom round can vary greatly in tenderness from one end of the cut to the other. It's usually cut into steaks (which are often cubed) or the bottom round roast. The well-flavored eye of the round is the least tender muscle, although many mistakenly think otherwise because it looks like the tenderloin. Both steaks and roasts from this cut require slow, moist-heat cooking. A cut that includes all four of these muscles is usually called round steak and those cut from the top (and which are of the best grades) can be cooked with dry heat. Near the bottom of the round is the toughest cut, the heel of the round. It's generally used for ground meat but can sometimes be found as a roast. See also beef.
Roux
A slow-cooked mix of flour and fat, used to thicken soups and sauces.
Royal Ann cherry
Big and heart-shaped, this firm and juicy sweet cherry has a golden-pink skin and flesh. The Royal Ann (also called Napoleon ) is used mainly for commercial canning and to make maraschino cherries. It's delicious for out-of-hand eating as well. See also cherry.
royal icing
An icing made of confectioners' sugar, egg whites and a few drops of lemon juice. It hardens when dry, making it a favorite for durable decorations (such as flowers and leaves) and ornamental writing. Royal icing is often tinted with food coloring.
rugalach
A Hanukkah tradition, rugalach are bite-size crescent-shaped cookies that can have any of several fillings including raisins (or other fruit) and nuts, poppy-seed paste or jam. They're generally made with a rich cream-cheese dough.
rum
A liquor distilled from fermented sugarcane juice or molasses. Most of the world's rum comes from the Caribbean. Puerto Rico's white or silver rum is clear and light in body and flavor. The Puerto Rican golden and amber rums have a deeper color and a flavor to match. Dark, rich and full-bodied best describes Jamaican and Cuban rums. The sugarcane that grows along Guyana's Demerara River produces the darkest, strongest and richest of all, Demerara rum. This slightly sweet liquor is used in a variety of cocktails including the cuba libre, mai tai, daiquiri and piña colada.
runner bean
This climbing plant one of Britain's favorite green beans was brought to the British Isles in the 17th century for decorative use because of its beautiful flowers. The scarlet runner bean has a long, green bean-type pod that holds red-streaked beige, medium-size seeds. Young runners may be prepared in any way suitable for green beans. In U.S. markets consumers are more likely to find the shelled dried beans, which can be cooked like pinto or pink beans and used in dishes such as soups and stews.
ruote; ruote de carro
Italian for "cartwheels," referring culinarily to small, spoked wheel- shaped pasta.
rusk
Known in France as biscotte and in Germany as zwieback, a rusk is a slice of yeast bread (thick or thin) that is baked until dry, crisp and golden brown. Some breads used for this purpose are slightly sweetened. Rusks, plain or flavored, are available in most supermarkets.
Russian dressing
Actually American in origin, this salad dressing includes mayonnaise, pimiento, chili sauce (or ketchup), chives and various herbs. Some think that the "Russian" title comes from the fact that earlier versions of this dressing contained caviar, for which Russia has long been famous.
rusty nail
A cocktail made with equal parts of scotch and drambuie and served over ice.
rutabaga
This cabbage-family root vegetable resembles a large (3 to 5 inches in diameter) turnip and, in fact, is thought to be a cross between cabbage and turnip. The name comes from the Swedish rotabagge, which is why this vegetable is also called a Swede or Swedish turnip. Rutabagas have a thin, pale yellow skin and a slightly sweet, firm flesh of the same color. There is also a white variety but it is not generally commercially available. This root vegetable is available year-round with a peak season of July through April. Choose those that are smooth, firm and heavy for their size. Rutabagas can be refrigerated in a plastic bag for up to 2 weeks. They may be prepared in any way suitable for turnips. Rutabagas, which are a cruciferous vegetable, contain small amounts of vitamins A and C.
rye flour
Milled from a hardy cereal grass, rye flour contains less gluten (protein) than all-purpose or whole-wheat flour. For that reason, it won't produce a well-risen loaf of bread without the addition of some higher-protein flour. Rye flour is also heavier and darker in color than most other flours, which is why it produces dark, dense loaves. There are several different types of rye flour, the most common of which is medium rye flour, available in most supermarkets. Light or dark rye flours, as well as pumpernickel flour (which is dark and coarsely ground), are available in health-food stores and some supermarkets. See also flour.
rye whiskey
Though wheat and barley are often used in the mash, law requires that this American whiskey be made with a minimum of 51 percent rye. Rye has a flavor that is similar to a smooth, rich bourbon. Straight ryes are those from a single distiller, while blended ryes are a combination of several straight ryes. See also liquor.
Sémillon
A white grape grown in France and, to a lesser extent, in California, Australia, Chile and Argentina. Semillon is bottled on a limited basis as both a dry and semisweet varietal. It's also sometimes blended with sauvignon blanc. Its greatest claim to fame, however, is its susceptibility to botrytis cinerea, making it one of the grapes most often used for dessert wines such as the French sauternes and some U.S. late-harvest wines.
s'more
A gooey dessert made by toasting a marshmallow over a fire (or gas burner, if need be), then sandwiching the hot marshmallow and a thin square of chocolate between two graham crackers and slightly squeezing this union together so that the marshmallow squishes out on the graham crackers. S'mores can also be made by making these "sandwiches" and heating them in an oven. The name comes from the notion that they're so good one always wants "some more." S'mores have long been a well-known campfire treat and are a special favorite in America's Girl Scout organization.
sabayon
The French word for "zabaglione."
sablé
This classic French cookie is said to hail from Caen, in the province of Normandy. The French word sable means "sand," and the cookies are so named because of their delicate, crumbly texture. Sablés can be variously flavored with additions such as almonds or lemon or orange zest. They can also be dipped in chocolate or two cookies may be sandwiched together with jam.
sablefish
Also known as Alaska cod, black cod and butterfish, the sablefish is actually neither a cod nor a butterfish. It ranges in size from 1 to 10 pounds and is found in deep waters off the Pacific Northwest coast. The white flesh of the sablefish is soft-textured and mild-flavored. Its high fat content makes it an excellent fish for smoking and it's commonly marketed as smoked black cod. Sablefish is available year-round whole, as well as in fillets and steaks. It can be prepared in a variety of ways including baking, broiling or frying. See also fish.
Sabra liqueur
A chocolate-orange-flavored liqueur made in Israel.
saccharin
Containing only 1/8 calorie per teaspoon, this artificial sweetener is said to be 300 times sweeter than sugar. Saccharin was discovered by accident in the late 1800s by scientists at Johns Hopkins University. Though it's widely used to sweeten a multitude of commercial foods and beverages as well as in the home some find that it has a decidedly bitter aftertaste. This unpleasant effect is particularly noticeable when a food sweetened with saccharin is heated. Saccharin is available in both powdered and liquid forms in supermarkets. It has been the center of controversy during the last few decades because of its reported possible carcinogenic effects. Because the issue is still being researched, the fda requires that saccharin products carry a warning label to that effect. See also acesulfame-K; alitame; aspartame, sucralose.
Sachertorte; Sacher torte
An extremely rich Viennese classic made with layers (usually three) of chocolate cake filled with apricot jam and enrobed in a creamy-rich chocolate glaze. Sachertorte is traditionally served with billows of whipped cream. It was created in 1832 by Franz Sacher, of the famous family of Viennese hoteliers and restaurateurs.
saddle
A cut of meat (most often lamb, mutton, veal or venison) that is the unseparated loin (from rib to leg) from both sides of the animal. The saddle is a very tender cut and makes an elegant (but expensive) roast.
safflower oil
This flavorless, colorless oil is expressed from the seeds of the safflower, also called saffron thistle or bastard saffron. It contains more polyunsaturates than any other oil, has a high smoke point (which makes it good for deep-frying) and is favored for salad dressings because it doesn't solidify when chilled. Safflower oil isn't as nutritionally beneficial as some of the other oils, however, because it lacks vitamin E. See also fats and oils.
saffron
It's no wonder that saffron the yellow-orange stigmas from a small purple crocus (Crocus sativus ) is the world's most expensive spice. Each flower provides only three stigmas, which must be carefully hand-picked and then dried an extremely labor-intensive process. It takes over 14,000 of these tiny stigmas for each ounce of saffron. Thousands of years ago saffron was used not only to flavor food and beverages but to make medicines and to dye cloth and body oils a deep yellow. Today this pungent, aromatic spice is primarily used to flavor and tint food. Fortunately (because it's so pricey), a little saffron goes a long way. It's integral to hundreds of dishes like bouillabaisse, risotto Milanese and paella, and flavors many European baked goods. Saffron is marketed in both powdered form and in threads (the whole stigmas). Powdered saffron loses its flavor more readily and can be easily adulterated with imitations. The threads should be crushed just before using. Store saffron airtight in a cool, dark place for up to 6 months. See also spices; herb and spice chart.
Saga blue
Hailing from Denmark, this soft, double-cream cheese can sometimes reach almost triple-cream status in richness. It has delicate blue veins and an elegant, mellow flavor. Saga blue has a tender, white, edible rind. It can be found in specialty cheese shops and many upscale supermarkets. See also cheese.
saganaki
A popular Greek appetizer in which 1/2-inch-thick slices of kasseri cheese are fried in butter or olive oil. Saganaki is sprinkled with lemon juice (and sometimes fresh oregano) and served with pita bread. Some Greek restaurants have a dramatic form of presentation: the cheese is first soaked in alcohol (such as brandy), then flambéed before being doused with lemon juice. Saganaki is generally served as an appetizer or first course.
sage
This native Mediterranean herb has been enjoyed for centuries for both its culinary and medicinal uses. The name comes from a derivative of the Latin salvus, meaning "safe," a reference to the herb's believed healing powers. The narrow, oval, gray-green leaves of this pungent herb are slightly bitter and have a musty mint taste and aroma. There's also a variety called pineapple sage, which has an intensely sweet pineapple scent. Small bunches of fresh sage are available year-round in many supermarkets. Choose sage by its fresh color and aroma. Refrigerate wrapped in a paper towel and sealed in a plastic bag for up to 4 days. Dried sage comes whole, rubbed (crumbled) and ground. It should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. Sage is commonly used in dishes containing veal, cheese and beans, and in poultry and game stuffings. Sausage makers also frequently use it to flavor their products. See also herbs; herb and spice chart.
sago
A starch extracted from the sago (and other tropical) palms that is processed into flour, meal and pearl sago, which is similar to tapioca. South Pacific cooks frequently use sago for baking and for thickening soups, puddings and other desserts. In the Orient and in India it's used as a flour and in the United States it's occasionally used as a thickener.
Saint André
An extravagantly rich triple-cream cheese with a mild, mellow flavor. See also cheese.
Saint-Germain
A French term describing various dishes garnished or made with fresh green peas or pea puree. Potage Saint-Germain is a thick pea soup enriched with butter.
Saint-Honoré; gâteau Saint-Honoré
A traditional French cake named for Saint Honoré, the patron saint of pastry bakers. It consists of a base of pâté brisée topped with a ring of cream puffs that are dipped in caramel prior to being positioned on the base. This caramel coating "glues" the puffs together. The center of the ring is then filled with Saint-Honoré cream crème Pâtissière lightened with beaten egg whites or whipped cream.
sake
This Japanese wine, the national alcoholic drink of Japan, is traditionally served warm in small porcelain cups. The yellowish, slightly sweet sake is made from fermented rice and doesn't require aging. It has a relatively low alcohol content of 12 to 16 percent. Sake is used in Japanese cooking, particularly in sauces and marinades. Once opened, it will keep tightly sealed in the refrigerator for at least 3 weeks.
salad spinner
A kitchen utensil that uses centrifugal force to dry freshly washed salad greens, herbs, etc. Wet ingredients are placed in an inner basket. The basket is set into an outer container fitted with a lid with a gear-operated handle or pull-cord. As the handle is turned (or cord pulled), the perforated inner container spins rapidly, forcing moisture off the food out through the perforations and into the outer container.
salamander
1. A kitchen tool used to brown the top of foods. It consists of a long iron rod with a cast-iron disk at one end and a wooden handle at the other. The disk is heated over a burner until red-hot before being passed closely over food. In addition to quickly browning foods, salamanders are used for dishes (such as crème brûlée) that require that a surface layer of sugar be caramelized quickly so that the custard below remains cold. They can be purchased in cookware shops and the kitchenware section of most department stores. 2. A small broiler unit in a professional oven that quickly browns the tops of dishes.
salami
The name applied to a family of sausages similar to cervelats. Both styles are uncooked but safe to eat without heating because they've been preserved by curing. Salamis, however, tend to be more boldly seasoned (particularly with garlic), coarser, drier and, unlike cervelats, rarely smoked. Salamis are usually air-dried and vary in size, shape, seasoning and curing process. The kosher versions are strictly beef. Among the best-known Italian salamis are Genoa (rich, fatty and studded with white peppercorns) and cotto (studded with black peppercorns). The kosher salamis are cooked and semisoft. Italian-American favorites include Alesandri and Alpino. frizzes and pepperoni are also salami-type sausages. With the casing uncut, whole dry salamis will keep for several years. Once cut, they should be tightly wrapped and refrigerated for up to two weeks. Salami is best served at room temperature and can be eaten as a snack or as part of an antipasto platter, or chopped and used in dishes such as soups and salads. See also sausage.
Salisbury steak
Essentially a ground-beef patty that has been flavored with minced onion and seasonings before being fried or broiled. It was named after a 19th-century English physician, Dr. J. H. Salisbury, who recommended that his patients eat plenty of beef for all manner of ailments. Salisbury steak is often served with gravy made from pan drippings.
Sally Lunn
This rich, slightly sweet yeast bread was brought to the Colonies from England and subsequently became a favorite in the South. There are several tales as to its origin, the most popular being that Sally Lunn, an 18th-century woman from Bath, England, created this delicate cakelike bread in her tiny bakery for her prominent patrons' tea parties. Those original Sally Lunns were baked as large buns, split horizontally and slathered with thick clotted cream.
salmagundi
1. A composed salad including greens, chopped cooked meats and vegetables (the latter sometimes pickled), anchovies, hard-cooked eggs and pickles. The ingredients are artfully arranged on a platter and drizzled with dressing. 2. A general term for a stew or other multi-ingredient dish.
salmi; salmis
A highly seasoned, wine-based ragoût made with minced, partially roasted game birds, mushrooms and, sometimes, truffles. A salmi is generally used as a sauce for pasta and other dishes.
salmon
Salmon was an important food to many early American Indians whose superstitions prevented certain tribe members from handling or eating the fish lest they anger its spirit and cause it to leave their waters forever. Salmon are anadromous, meaning that they migrate from their saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. Over the years, some salmon have become landlocked in freshwater lakes. In general, the flesh of those salmon is less flavorful than that of their sea-running relatives. There is an increasing volume of aquacultured salmon being imported into the United States today most of it from Norway, although Chile's salmon farming industry is now giving the Norwegians some competition. Although farmed salmon are raised in salt water, their flesh doesn't have the same rich nuances in flavor and texture as that of their wild relations. There are several varieties of North American salmon. All but one are found off the Pacific coast, and about 90 percent come from Alaskan waters. Among the best Pacific salmon is the superior Chinook or king salmon, which can reach up to 120 pounds. The color of its high-fat, soft-textured flesh ranges from off-white to bright red. Other high-fat salmon include the coho or silver salmon, with its firm-textured, pink to red-orange flesh, and the sockeye or red salmon (highly prized for canning) with its firm, deep red flesh. Not as fatty as the preceding species are the pink or humpback salmon the smallest, most delicately flavored of the Pacific varieties and the chum or dog salmon, which is distinguished by having the lightest color and lowest fat content. Pacific salmon are in season from spring through fall. The population of the once-abundant Atlantic salmon has diminished greatly over the years because of industrial pollution of both North American and European tributaries. The Atlantic salmon has a high-fat flesh that's pink and succulent. Canada provides most of the Atlantic salmon, which is in season from summer to early winter. Depending on the variety, salmon is sold whole or in fillets or steaks. It's also available canned and as smoked salmon, which comes in a variety of styles. The increasingly popular bright red salmon roe (see caviar) is readily available in most supermarkets. Fresh salmon is integral to some of the world's most famous dishes, including gravlax and coulibiac. It can be served as a main course, in salads, as a spread or dip... its uses are myriad. All salmon are high in protein as well as a rich source of vitamin A, the B-group vitamins and Omega-3 oils. See also fish.
salmonella
A strain of bacteria that can enter the human system through contaminated water or food such as meat or poultry, and eggs with cracked shells. Other foods can be contaminated by touching salmonella-carrying foods or unwashed surfaces (like cutting boards) that have had contact with them. The presence of salmonella is difficult to detect because it gives no obvious warnings (such as an off smell or taste). The bacteria can cause stomach pain, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, headache, fever and chills. It can attack in as little time as 6 to 7 hours or take as long as 3 days. It seldom causes death and can be cured with antibiotics.
Salpicon
A French term for the chopped, cooked and bound components used as stuffings.
Salsify
A root vegetable with oyster-flavored flesh.
salt
Today salt is inexpensive and universally available, but that wasn't always the case. Because of its importance in food preservation and the fact that the human body requires it (for the regulation of fluid balance), salt has been an extremely valuable commodity throughout the ages. It was even once used as a method of exchange Roman soldiers received a salt allowance as part of their pay. Salt was valued by the ancient Hebrews and Greeks, throughout the Middle Ages and well into the 19th century when it began to become more plentiful and therefore reasonable in price. Salt (sodium chloride) comes either from salt mines or from the sea. Most of today's salt is mined and comes from large deposits left by dried salt lakes throughout the world. Table salt, a fine-grained refined salt with additives that make it free-flowing, is mainly used in cooking and as a table condiment. Iodized salt is table salt with added iodine (sodium iodide) particularly important in areas that lack natural iodine, an important preventative for hypothyroidism. Kosher salt is an additive-free coarse-grained salt. It's used by some Jews in the preparation of meat, as well as by gourmet cooks who prefer its texture and flavor. Sea salt is the type used down through the ages and is the result of the evaporation of sea water the more costly of the two processes. It comes in fine-grained or larger crystals. Rock salt has a grayish cast because it's not as refined as other salts, which means it retains more minerals and harmless impurities. It comes in chunky crystals and is used in combination with ice to make ice cream in crank-style ice-cream makers. Pickling salt is a fine-grained salt used to make brines for pickles, sauerkraut, etc. It contains no additives, which would cloud the brine. Sour salt (see citric acid), also called citric salt, is extracted from acidic fruits, such as lemons and limes. It's used to add tartness to traditional dishes like borscht. Seasoned salt is regular salt combined with other flavoring ingredients, examples being onion salt, garlic salt and celery salt. Salt substitutes, frequently used by those on low-salt diets, are products containing little or no sodium.
salt-rising bread
A bread popular in the 1800s, before yeast leavening was readily available. It relies on a fermented mixture of warm milk or water, flour, cornmeal, sugar and salt to give it rising power. Salt-rising bread has a very smooth texture with a tangy flavor and aroma.
saltfish
A popular ingredient in Caribbean cuisine, saltfish is simply that salted, dried fish, usually cod, though other fish (such as mackerel) can be used. Saltfish is an integral ingredient in Jamaica's national dish, "saltfish and ackee." It's available in pieces in Caribbean, Italian and Asian markets. Choose segments with white flesh, rather than yellow; the skin should be attached. Store, wrapped airtight, in a cool, dark place indefinitely. Before using, soak for 12 to 24 hours, changing the water every 4 to 5 hours. The soaking softens the flesh and each water change reduces the salt. Drain the last batch of soaking water and pour boiling water over the saltfish; cover and allow to soak for about 15 minutes, or until the flesh is soft.
Saltimbocca
Sliced veal done up Roman style, paired with sage and cured meat then sautéed in butter and braised in white wine.
Sambal
A condiment made of chiles, brown sugar, salt and other ingredients.
sambuca
An anise-flavored, not-too-sweet Italian liqueur that is usually served with 2 or 3 dark-roasted coffee beans floating on top.
samosa
In India, street pushcarts and roadside vendors sell their delicious samosas to passersby who enjoy immediate gratification from these satisfying snacks. Samosas are fried, triangular pastries that may be filled with vegetables or meat or a combination of both. In the United States, these delicious packages are most often served as appetizers in East Indian restaurants.
samp
Broken or coarsely ground hominy.
samphire
There are two edible, very similar plants known as samphire. The first is Crithmum maritimum (commonly referred to as rock samphire ), which grows along the coasts of Great Britain and northwestern Europe and is available in the United States only through costly import. What we have in the United States is the second type of samphire known as salicornia, (also called glasswort, marsh samphire, sea bean and sea pickle ). It's abundant along both the Pacific and Atlantic coasts and has spiky green leaves that are so arranged as to make the plant look somewhat like a spindly, miniature cactus, sans needles. Both the leaves and stem are crisp, aromatic and taste of a salty sea breeze. They're often pickled and can sometimes be found in jars in gourmet markets. Fresh salicornia can be found from summer through fall, though it's at its most tender during summer months. Choose crisp, brightly colored sprigs with no sign of softness. Refrigerate tightly wrapped for up to 2 weeks though the sooner salicornia is used the better the flavor. It's best used fresh, either in salads or as a garnish. When cooked, salicornia tends to taste quite salty and fishy.
Samsoe cheese
Named for the island where it originated, this national cheese of Denmark is made from cow's milk and contains about 45 percent milk fat. It's a Swiss-style cheese with a yellow interior accented with small irregular holes. Samsoe has a distinctive, mild, nutlike flavor that's suitable for almost any use from cooked dishes to salads and sandwiches. See also cheese.
sand dab
A small flatfish found in Pacific waters from Southern California to Alaska. It has a sweet, delicately moist flesh that's quite low in fat. Sand dabs are marketed whole and usually range from 4 to 12 ounces. They can be prepared by almost any cooking method including baking, broiling, poaching and sautéing. See also dab; fish.
sangría
The blood-red color of this beverage inspired its name, which is derived from the Spanish word for "blood." Sangría is made with red wine, fruit juices, soda water, fruit and sometimes liqueurs and brandy or cognac. Sangría blanco (white sangría) is made with white wine. Both are served cold over ice and make a refreshing cooler on a hot summer day.
sangrita
Although sometimes confused with sangría, this Spanish/Mexican drink is not the same at all. There are many variations, but sangrita is typically a blended mixture of tomatoes (or tomato juice), orange juice and lemon or lime juice, with a fiery element added through chiles, chile powder or tabasco sauce. Sangrita is served chilled, usually with a shot of tequila.
sansho
A mildly hot Japanese seasoning made from the aromatic berries of the prickly ash tree, which are dried and ground into a powder. It's the same spice that the Chinese call szechuan pepper.
Santa Claus melon
From the outside a Santa Claus melon, with its long oval shape and splotchy green-and-yellow skin, looks like a small watermelon. Inside, however, its yellowish-green flesh looks and tastes more like honeydew melon. This member of the muskmelon family grows to about a foot in length, with some specimens weighing as much as 10 pounds. Santa Claus melon, also called Christmas melon, was so named because its peak season is in December. Choose a melon that is slightly soft at the blossom end, heavy for its size and has a yellowish cast to the rind. Avoid those with soft spots or with damaged skin. See also melon.
Santa Fe Grande chile
These small, tapered, conical peppers are generally marketed when yellow, though if allowed to mature longer, they turn orange or red. Santa Fe Grandes have a slightly sweet taste and are medium-hot to hot in spiciness. They may be used in both cooked and raw dishes. See also chile.
sapote, white
A tropical fruit native to Mexico and Central America, though it's also grown in California and Florida. The sapote is plum-shaped and about the size of a small orange. The thin skin ranges in color from chartreuse to yellow. The ivory colored flesh has a creamy, custardlike texture and a sweet flavor that is reminiscent of a peach-avocado-vanilla blend. The flesh contains from 3 to 5 medium-size seeds, which should be removed. White sapotes are available in the fall in some specialty produce markets. Ripen at room temperature as you would an avocado. Store ripe fruit in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Also called zapote blanco.
sapsago cheese
Also known as Schbzieger, sapsago is a hard cone-shaped cheese from Switzerland. It's made from skimmed cows' milk and contains less than 10 percent fat. It has a light green color and pungent herbal flavor that come from the addition of blue melilot, a special variety of clover. Sapsago is used primarily for grating and adds interest to everything from salads to pasta. See also cheese.
sardine
A generic term applied broadly to any of various small, soft-boned, saltwater fish such as sprat and young pilchard and herring. These tiny fish are iridescent and silvery and swim in huge schools, usually near the water's surface. Fresh sardines are available on a limited basis during the summer months, usually only along the coast where they're caught. In general, their fatty flesh is best when grilled, broiled or fried. In the United States, sardines are more commonly found salted, smoked or canned, either in oil, tomato sauce or mustard sauce. Some are packed as is, while others are skinned, boned and sold as fillets. The name is thought to have come from the young pilchards caught off the coast of Sardinia, which were one of the first fish packed in oil. See also fish.
sarsaparilla
Originally derived from the dried roots of tropical smilax vines, this flavor is usually associated with a carbonated drink popular in the mid-1800s. Today's sarsaparilla products including the no-longer-popular soft drink use artificial flavorings.
sashimi
Sliced raw fish that is served with condiments such as shredded daikon radish or gingerroot, wasabi and soy sauce. Because it's served raw, only the freshest and highest-quality fish should be used for sashimi. Some Japanese restaurants keep the fish alive in water until just before preparing it. Special sashimi chefs are trained in slicing the fish in a particular way depending on the variety for the best presentation and eating enjoyment. Sashimi is usually the first course in the Japanese meal and sashimi bars abound in the United States for Westerners with Eastern tastes. See also sushi.
sassafras
The leaves of the native North American sassafras (albidum or variifolium ) tree, which are dried and used to make filé powder and sassafras tea. The root bark is used as a flavoring agent in root beer.
saté; satay
An Indonesian favorite consisting of small marinated cubes of meat, fish or poultry threaded on skewers and grilled or broiled. Saté is usually served with a spicy peanut sauce. It's a favorite snack food but is also often served for an appetizer and sometimes as a main dish.
sauce
v. To cover or mix a food with a sauce. sauce n. In the most basic terms, a sauce is a thickened, flavored liquid designed to accompany food in order to enhance and bring out its flavor. In the days before refrigeration, however, sauces were more often used to smother the taste of foods that had begun to go bad. The French are credited with refining the sophisticated art of sauce-making. It was the 19th-century French chef Antonin Carême who evolved an intricate methodology by which hundreds of sauces were classified under one of five "mother sauces." Those are: espagnole (brown stock-based), velouté (light stock-based), Béchamel (basic white sauce), hollandaise and mayonnaise (emulsified sauces) and vinaigrette (oil-and-vinegar combinations). See also adobo sauce; albert sauce; alfredo sauce; allemande sauce; aurore sauce; bagna cauda; barbecue sauce; bernaise sauce; bercy sauce; beurre blanc; bigarade sauce; bolognese; bordelaise sauce; bread sauce; brown sauce; chasseur sauce; chili sauce; chimichurri; choron sauce; cocktail sauce; colbert sauce; coulis; cream sauce; crème anglaise; cumberland sauce; demi-glace; diable sauce; diplomat sauce; figaro sauce; garum; genevoise sauce; hard sauce; harissa sauce; hoisin sauce; hummus; kecap manis; ketchup; louis sauce; lyonnaise sauce; maltaise sauce; marchands de vin; marguery sauce; marinara sauce; melba sauce; mole; mornay sauce; mousseline; nam pla; nantua sauce; newburg sauce; normande sauce; nuoc cham; parisienne sauce; perigueux sauce; pesto; piquante sauce; pistou; plum sauce; ponzu sauce; puttanesca sauce; ragu; ranchero sauce; Rémoulade; romesco; rouille; skordalia; sofrito; soubise; soy sauce; supreme sauce; tabasco; tamari; tartar sauce; tentsuyu; tomato sauce; tonnato sauce; verte sauce; worcestershire sauce.
saucepan
A round cooking utensil with a relatively long handle and (usually) a tight-fitting cover. The sides can be straight or flared and deep (the standard shape) or as shallow as 3 inches. Depending on the style, the versatile saucepan has a multitude of uses including making soups and sauces, boiling vegetables and other foods, braising and even sautéing (in the low-sided models). Saucepans come in sizes ranging from 1 pint to 4 quarts. They are made from various materials including aluminum, anodized aluminum, ceramic, copper, enameled (cast iron or steel), glass and stainless steel. Choose saucepans that are well balanced, with handles that allow the pan to be easily lifted.
saucisse
is a large, smoke-cured sausage. See also sausage.
sauerbraten
German for "sour roast," sauerbraten is a German specialty made by marinating a beef roast in a sour-sweet marinade for 2 to 3 days before browning it, then simmering the meat in the marinade for several hours. The result is an extremely tender roast and a delicious sauce. Sauerbraten is traditionally served with dumplings, boiled potatoes or noodles.
sauerkraut
Although sauerkraut German for "sour cabbage" is thought of as a German invention, Chinese laborers building the Great Wall of China over 2,000 years ago ate it as standard fare. Chinese sauerkraut, made from shredded cabbage fermented in rice wine, eventually found its way to Europe, where the Germans and Alsatians adopted it as a favorite. Today's sauerkraut is made by combining shredded cabbage, salt and sometimes spices, and allowing the mixture to ferment. It can be purchased in jars and cans in supermarkets. Fresh sauerkraut is sold in delicatessens and in plastic bags in a supermarket's refrigerated section. It should be rinsed before being used in casseroles, as a side dish and even on sandwiches like the famous reuben sandwich. Sauerkraut is an excellent source of vitamin C as well as of some of the B vitamins.
sausage
What started out simply as a means of using and preserving all of the animal trimmings has turned into the art of sausage-making. Simply put, sausage is ground meat mixed with fat, salt and other seasonings, preservatives and sometimes fillers. Such a mixture is usually packed into a casing. Sausages can differ dramatically depending on their ingredients, additives, shape, curing technique, level of dryness and whether fresh or cooked. There are sausages made almost entirely from beef, veal, lamb, chicken or game animals. All contain varying amounts of fat. Seasonings can run the gamut from garlic to nutmeg. Some sausages are hot and spicy and others so mild they border on bland. Many sausages today contain additives to help preserve, thicken or color the mixture. Some sausages use fillers (such as various cereals, soybean flour and dried-milk solids) to stretch the meat. The most common shape for sausage is link, which varies in size and shape depending on the type of sausage. Other sausage (fresh) is sold in bulk, which can then be used to mix with other meats or made into patties or balls. Sausage can be fresh or cured with salt or smoke (or both). Curing extends storage life. Some sausages are also dried; the drying times can vary from a few days to as much as 6 months. The sausage becomes firmer the longer it's dried. Sausage can be fully cooked (ready to eat), partially cooked (enough to kill any trichinae) and uncooked, which may or may not require cooking depending on how or whether it's been cured. All these factors produce an almost endless number of sausages that can be used in a variety of ways and which appeal to a multitude of tastes. See also andouille; andouillette; banger; bauerwurst; bierwurst; blood sausage; bockwurst; bologna; boudin blanc; bratwurst; braunschweiger; cervelat; chaurice; chinese sausage; chipolata; chorizo; cotechino; cotto; crepinette; frankfurter; frizzes; head cheese; italian sausage; kielbasa; kishke; knackwurst; leberkäse; linquiça; liverwurst; loukanika; mettwurst; mortadella; pepperoni; salami; summer sausage; thuringer; tongue sausage; toulouse; weisswurst; zungenwurst.
sauté pan
A wide pan with straight or slightly curved sides that are generally a little higher than those of a frying pan. It has a long handle on one side; heavy sauté pans usually have a loop handle on the other side so the pan can be easily lifted. sauté pans are most often made of stainless steel, enameled cast iron, aluminum, anodized aluminum or copper. As the name suggests, a sauté pan efficiently browns and cooks meats and a variety of other foods.
sauté; sautéed; sautéing
To cook food quickly in a small amount of oil in a skillet or sauté pan over direct heat. See also fry.
Sauternes
An elegant sweet wine from the Sauternes region of western France. It's made from sauvignon blanc or semillon grapes that have been infected by a beneficial mold called botrytis cinerea, which causes the grapes to shrivel, leaving a sugary fruit with concentrated flavors. The best Sauternes come from vines that have been hand-picked (as many as 12 separate times) to ensure that the grapes are not removed from the vines before reaching the perfect degree of ripeness required for these wines. Sauternes are most notable as dessert wines but, because of their high acidity, they also make excellent partners for rich dishes like pâté, caviar and foie gras. "Sauterne" without the ending "s" usually refers to an inexpensive semisweet California wine.
Sauvignon Blanc
Widely cultivated in France and California (and also grown in Italy, Australia, New Zealand and Chile), the Sauvignon Blanc grape imparts a grassy, herbaceous flavor to wine. It's one of the main grapes used to produce the elegant dry wines from Bordeaux (Graves) and the Loire Valley (Pouilly-Fumé), as well as the seductively sweet sauternes. Many wineries particularly in California use this grape to produce wonderful wines that are bottled under the varietal name, Sauvignon Blanc (sometimes labeled Fumé Blanc).
savarin
This variation on the baba is made without raisins and baked in a large ring mold. Named after Brillat-Savarin, a famous 18th-century food writer, this rich yeast cake is soaked with rum-flavored syrup and filled with pastry cream, crème chantilly or fresh fruit.
savory
n. An herb of which there are two types, summer and winter, both closely related to the mint family. Savory has an aroma and flavor reminiscent of a cross between thyme and mint. Summer savory is slightly milder than the winter variety but both are strongly flavored and should be used with discretion. Dried savory is available year-round; fresh savory can be found in specialty produce markets. Savory adds a piquant flavor to many foods including pâtés, soups, meat, fish and bean dishes. See also herbs; herb and spice chart. savory adj. A term describing food that is not sweet but rather piquant and full-flavored.
savoury
A British term initially used to describe dishes that were served after dessert to cleanse and refresh the palate. Today it more often refers to tidbits served as appetizers, as well as to more substantial dishes that can be served for lunch, high tea or light supper.
savoy cabbage
This mellow-flavored cabbage is considered by many to be one of the best of its genre for cooking. Savoy has a loose, full head of crinkled leaves varying from dark to pale green. Choose a head that's heavy for its size. The leaves should be crisp, not limp, and there should be no sign of browning. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped, in a plastic bag for up to 1 week. See also cabbage.
Sazerac
A cocktail consisting of whiskey, sugar syrup and a dash each of bitters and pernod. Its name comes from the fact that it was originally served at the Sazerac Coffee House in New Orleans. The first of these potent drinks is said to have been made with Sazerac-du-Forge, a French brandy.
Sbrinz cheese
A hard grating cheese that originated in the central mountains of Switzerland. It's made from whole cow's milk and contains 45 to 50 percent milk fat. Aged from 2 to 3 years, Sbrinz has a dark yellow interior with a brownish-yellow rind. If aged less than this, it is called Spalen. The rich mellow flavor of Sbrinz makes it ideal for both cooking and as a table cheese. See also cheese.
scald
n. A dry, tan- or brown-colored area on the skin of a fruit, such as an apple. It's usually caused by overexposure to sunlight and rarely affects the fruit quality. scald v. 1. A cooking technique often used to retard the souring of milk whereby a liquid is heated to just below the boiling point. 2. To plunge food such as tomatoes or peaches into boiling water (or to pour boiling water over them), in order to loosen their skin and facilitate peeling. Also referred to as blanch.
scale
v. A technique by which the scales are removed from the skin of a fish, generally using a dull knife or a special kitchen tool called a fish scaler.
scale, kitchen
A kitchen device used to accurately record the weight of ingredients. Kitchen scales are particularly important for consistent baking results and for weighing meats in order to estimate cooking time. Though there are many styles of kitchen scales, there are two basic types spring and balance scales. Spring scales register weight when an item is placed in the weighing pan, which then depresses a spring attached to a recording dial. A bowl scale is a type of spring scale which uses a bowl container rather than a shallow-sided pan. As spring scales get older the spring may weaken, thereby reducing the scale's accuracy. The more accurate balance scales usually have a pan for ingredients on one side and a platform for weights on the other. The ingredient's weight is determined when it balances with the weights on the other side. The main disadvantage of a balance scale is that it usually takes up more room than a spring scale. The less popular beam balance scales use weights that slide along two bars. The correct weight of the ingredients registers when the bars balance.
scallion
The name "scallion" is applied to several members of the onion family including a distinct variety called scallion, immature onions (commonly called green onions ), young leeks and sometimes the tops of young shallots. In each case the vegetable has a white base that has not fully developed into a bulb and green leaves that are long and straight. Both parts are edible. True scallions are generally identified by the fact that the sides of the base are straight, whereas the others are usually slightly curved, showing the beginnings of a bulb. All can be used interchangeably although true scallions have a milder flavor than immature onions. Scallions are available year-round but are at their peak during spring and summer. Choose those with crisp, bright green tops and a firm white base. Midsized scallions with long white stems are the best. Store, wrapped in a plastic bag, in the vegetable crisper section of the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Scallions can be cooked whole as a vegetable much as you would a leek. They can also be chopped and used in salads, soups and a multitude of other dishes for flavor.
scallop
1. A thin, boneless, round- or oval-shaped slice of meat or fish that is usually lightly breaded and quickly sautéed. Known as escalope in French. scallop 2. To prepare a food (most notably potatoes) by layering slices of it with cream or a creamy sauce in a casserole. Scalloped foods are often topped with bread or cracker crumbs before being baked. 3. To form a decorative edge in the raised rim of pie dough. Also referred to as crimp and flute.
scaloppine
A term in Italian cookery describing a thin scallop of meat (most often veal), usually prepared by dredging the meat in flour before sautéing it. Scaloppine dishes are generally served with a sauce based on wine or tomatoes.
Scamorza
alt spellings: Scamorze, ScamorzoLike a firm, slightly salty mozzarella.
scamorze cheese; scamorza; scamorzo
Though today this Italian cheese is usually made from whole cow's milk (sometimes mixed with sheep's or goat's milk), scamorze was originally made only from buffalo milk. It's a pasta filata type of cheese that is basically a very firm, slightly salty mozzarella. Scamorze, which contains about 44 percent milk fat, has a creamy white color and a mild, nutty flavor. It's sold in small ovals or gourd shapes and can sometimes be found smoked. Scamorze can be used in much the same way as mozzarella generally as a table cheese or in cooking. See also cheese.
schaum torte; schaumtorten
This classic dessert from Austria consists of baked meringue layers filled with fruit and topped with whipped cream.
schlag
A German word (used mainly in Austria) for "whipped cream." Mit schlag means "with whipped cream," which is how Austrians love to top many foods and beverages including fruit, desserts and coffee.
schmaltz
A rendered chicken fat (sometimes flavored with onions, apples and seasonings) that is strained and used in many dishes of Middle European Jewish origin much like butter both in cooking and as a spread for bread.
schmear
Thought to have come from the Yiddish word shmirn ("to smear or grease"), the word schmear is used in the culinary world to describe a dab of something like mayonnaise or cream cheese that's spread on a roll, bagel, etc. More recently, cream cheese is combined with flavorings such as onions, garlic and bell peppers to create a spread that's commercially packaged as a "schmear."
schnapps; schnaps
Any of several strong, colorless alcoholic beverages made from grains or potatoes and flavored variously. Peppermint schnapps is one of the best known of this genre.
schnitz un knepp
A Pennslyvania Dutch dish consisting of dried apples that are soaked in water before being cooked in that liquid with cured meat. At the end of the cooking time, spoonfuls of batter are added to the cooking liquid to make dumplings.
Schnitzel
Egg- and breadcrumb-battered, fried meat cutlet.
scone
This Scottish quick bread is said to have taken its name from the Stone of Destiny (or Scone), the place where Scottish kings were once crowned. The original triangular-shaped scone was made with oats and griddle-baked. Today's versions are more often flour-based and baked in the oven. They come in various shapes including triangles, rounds, squares and diamonds. Scones can be savory or sweet and are usually eaten for breakfast or tea.
Score
To make shallow cuts (usually in a diamond pattern) in the surface of certain foods, such as meat or fish. This is done for several reasons: as a decoration on some foods (breads and meats); as a means of assisting flavor absorption (as with marinated foods); to tenderize less tender cuts of meat; and to allow excess fat to drain during cooking.
scorpion
A potent cocktail consisting of light rum, brandy, orange juice, lemon juice and orgeat syrup, served over ice.
Scotch bonnet chile
This small (1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter), irregularly shaped chile ranges in color from yellow to orange to red. The Scotch bonnet is one of the hottest of the chiles and is closely related to the equally fiery jamaican hot and the habanero. See also chile.
Scotch broth
A Scottish soup made with lamb or mutton, barley and various vegetables. Also known as barley broth.
Scotch egg
A hard-cooked egg that is coated with sausage, dipped into beaten egg, rolled in bread crumbs and deep-fried. Scotch eggs are halved or quartered lengthwise and may be served hot or cold, usually as an appetizer.
Scotch whisky; Scotch
Made only in Scotland, this distinctive liquor uses barley for flavoring instead of the corn that's used for most American whiskies. The characteristic smoky flavor of Scotch comes from the fact that the sprouted malted barley is dried over peat fires. There are two main types of this liquor available blended Scotches, which are a combination of 50 to 80 percent grain (unmalted) whisky and 20 to 50 percent malt whisky; and single-malt Scotches, which are made exclusively from malt, produced by a single distillery and have a richer smoky flavor. Though blended Scotch is generally preferred in the United States, single-malts are rapidly gaining favor. Traditionally, whiskies made in Scotland are spelled without the "e." See also liquor; whiskey.
Scotch woodcock
A British specialty consisting of toast spread with anchovy paste and topped with a softly scrambled mixture of eggs and cream. It can be served as a first course or entrée.
scrapple
The name of this Pennslvania Dutch dish is derived from the finely chopped "scraps" of cooked smoked meat that are mixed with fine-ground cornmeal, broth and seasonings before being cooked into a mush. The mush is packed into loaf pans and cooled. Slices of the scrapple are then cut from the loaves, fried in butter and served hot, usually for breakfast or brunch.
screwdriver
A mixed drink of orange juice and vodka served over ice. Its origins are unknown but the most popular tale is that it was named in the 1950s by American oil-rig workers stationed in the Middle East who opened and stirred cans of this mixture with their screwdrivers.
screwpine leaves
Popular in the cooking of Southeast Asia (particularly Indonesian, Malasian and Thai), screwpine leaves have a floral flavor and are used most often to flavor rice dishes and puddings. Their intense green hue also makes them useful as a natural food coloring. Screwpine leaves are available in Asian markets sometimes fresh and always dried. They're also called daun pandan, pandanus and kewra.
sea bass
A term used to describe any of various saltwater fish, most of which aren't members of the bass family. black sea bass is a true bass (as is striped bass), but white sea bass, which is generally marketed simply as "sea bass," is actually a member of the drum family. The giant sea bass is related to the grouper family and can weigh as much as 550 pounds. It's sometimes mistakenly called both black sea bass and jewfish. Sea bass can be found whole and in steaks or fillets. In general, the flesh is lean to moderately fat and is suitable for almost any method of cooking including baking, broiling, poaching and sautéing. See also fish.
Sea Bream, Porgy
Widely known as sea bream (in Hebrew דניס,Denis), there are many different varieties of this fish family in the United States and around the world. The most popular United States porgy is the scup, which is found in Atlantic waters. The most popular Mediterranean variety is the Gilt head Sea Bream. Porgies have a firm, low-fat flesh with a delicate, mild flavor. Although some grow to 20 pounds, most fall into the 1/2- to 3-pound range. They're available fresh and frozen, and are generally sold whole. The porgy is suitable for almost any method of cooking, including baking, grilling and frying.
Sear
To brown meat quickly by subjecting it to very high heat either in a skillet, under a broiler or in a very hot oven. Searing gives the meat a desirable color by caramelizing the protein on the outside of the meat through the Maillard process. It was once thought that searing helped to seal in the meat's juices, which is why British cooks often use the word "seal" to mean the same thing. That concept has since been disproved. See brown.
season, to
1. To flavor foods in order to improve their taste. See also seasoning. 2. To age meat, which helps both to tenderize it and to improve its flavor. 3. To smooth out the microscopic roughness of new pots and pans, particularly cast iron, which might cause foods to stick to the cooking surface. This is normally done by coating the cooking surface with vegetable oil, then heating the pan in a 350°F oven for about an hour. Continued use and gentle cleaning will improve the seasoning. Pans may occasionally need reseasoning.
seasoning
Ingredients added to food to intensify or improve its flavor. Some of the most commonly used seasonings include herbs (such as oregano, rosemary and basil), spices (like cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and allspice), condiments (such as Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce and mustard), a variety of vinegars and the most common of all salt and pepper.
seaweed
An important food source in many Asian cultures, seaweed is a primitive sea plant belonging to the algae family with origins dating back millions of years. Japanese cuisine employs different varieties (such as kombu, laver, wakame and nori) for many uses including soups, vegetables, tea, sushi and as a general seasoning. The Irish are partial to the seaweed known as carrageen, and agar is widely used throughout Asia. Seaweed is a rich source of iodine, an important nutrient. Many seaweeds also provide alginic acid, a jellylike substance that's used as a stabilizer and thickener in a wide variety of commercially processed foods such as ice creams, puddings, flavored milk drinks, pie fillings, soups and syrups. See also dulse; hijiki; kelp; limu; wakame.
sec
This French word literally means "dry" and when used to describe still (nonbubbly) wines, indicates that the wine has little if any residual sugar left after fermentation, meaning the wine is dry (not sweet). In sparkling wines such as champagne, however, the word takes on quite another meaning: "sec" indicates a relatively sweet wine (demi-sec even sweeter), while the driest sparkling wines are referred to as brut.
Seckel pear
An 18th-century Pennsylvania farmer (for whom it was named) is credited with introducing the Seckel pear. It's a small, russet-colored fruit with a sweet, spicy flavor. The Seckel's firm flesh makes it excellent for both cooking and canning but some people find it too crisp for out-of-hand eating. It's available late August through December. See also pear.
sediment
The grainy deposit sometimes found in wine bottles, most often with older wines. Sediment is not a bad sign but in fact may indicate a superior wine. It should be allowed to settle completely before the wine is decanted into another container so that when the wine is served none of the sediment will transfer to the glass.
seed
v. To remove the seeds from foods, such as fruits or vegetables.
seitan
A protein-rich food made from wheat gluten and used in many vegetarian dishes. Seitan's firm texture is definitively chewy and meatlike (which is why it's also called wheat meat ), its flavor rather neutral. That mildness, however, allows seitan to be a kitchen chameleon that easily picks up the flavors of the foods with which it is cooked. Available in the refrigerator section of health-food stores and Asian markets, seitan typically comes in foil- or plastic-wrapped cakes that may be square or rectangular and that average about 1/2-inch thick. It also comes in 8-ounce plastic tubs. Check the expiration date on fresh seitan. Seitan is also sold as wheat gluten, a powdered form that can be mixed with water. The wheat gluten-water mixture, however, doesn't have the same chewy texture as commercially packaged seitan. For the best texture and flavor add seitan to cooked dishes at the last minute, heating just until it is warmed through.
seize
A word applied culinarily to melted chocolate that becomes a thick, lumpy mass. Seizing occurs when a minute amount of liquid or steam comes in contact with melted chocolate, in which case the chocolate clumps and hardens. To correct seized chocolate, add a small amount (no more than 1 tablespoon per 6 ounces of chocolate) of clarified butter, cocoa butter or vegetable oil into the chocolate, stirring until once again smooth. Be aware that the added fat may affect the texture of the final product. See also chocolate.
sel
French for "salt." Sel marin is "sea salt," gros sel is "rock (or coarse) salt."
seltzer water
A flavorless, naturally effervescent water that takes its name from the town of Nieder Selters in the Weisbaden region of Germany. Human-made "seltzer," also referred to as soda water, was introduced in the latter half of the 18th century when carbon dioxide was injected into water. The original seltzer was the forerunner to soda pops, which came into being in the 1840s when flavors were added to seltzer water. See also soda water.
semi de melone
Italian for "melon seeds," culinarily describing tiny, flat melon-seed pasta shapes.
semifreddo
Italian for "half cold," semifreddo culinarily refers to any of various chilled or partially frozen desserts including cake, ice cream, fruit and custard or whipped cream. Such a dessert's Spanish counterpart is called semifrío.
Semolina
Very coarse flour used to make pizza and bread. Also refers to rounded parts of wheat used to make a pudding of the same name.
serrano chile
A small (about 1 1/2 inches long), slightly pointed chile that has a very hot, savory flavor. As it matures, its smooth, bright green skin turns scarlet red, then yellow. Fresh serranos can be found in Mexican markets and some supermarkets. They are also available canned, pickled or packed in oil, sometimes with carrots, onions or other vegetables. Serranos can be used fresh or cooked in various dishes and sauces such as guacamole and salsa. The dried serrano chile, also known as chile seco, comes whole and powdered and is generally used in sauces.
sesame oil
Expressed from sesame seed, sesame oil comes in two basic types. One is light in color and flavor and has a deliciously nutty nuance. It's excellent for everything from salad dressings to sautéing. The darker, Asian sesame oil has a much stronger flavor and fragrance and is used as a flavor accent for some Asian dishes. Sesame oil is high in polyunsaturated fats ranking fourth behind safflower, soybean and corn oil. Its average smoke point is 420°F, making it excellent for frying. Sesame oil is particularly popular in India as well as in the Orient. See also fats and oils.
sesame seed
History tells us that sesame seed is the first recorded seasoning, dating back to 3000 b.c. Assyria. It grows widely in India and throughout the Orient. The seeds were brought to America by African slaves, who called it benné (pronounced behn-nee) seed, and it subsequently became very popular in Southern cooking. These tiny, flat seeds come in shades of brown, red and black, but those most commonly found are a pale grayish-ivory. Sesame seed has a nutty, slightly sweet flavor that makes it versatile enough for use in baked goods such as breads, pastries, cakes and cookies, in confections like the Middle Eastern halvah and in salads and other savory dishes. The seed is available packaged in supermarkets and can be found in bulk in Middle Eastern markets and health-food stores. Because of a high oil content, sesame seed turns rancid quickly. It can be stored airtight in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months, refrigerated up to 6 months or frozen up to a year.
set, to
To allow food to become firm, as with a gelatin-based dish.
seven-minute frosting
A fluffy, meringue-type frosting consisting of egg whites, sugar, cream of tartar, water and vanilla. The mixture is beaten constantly in the top of a double boiler over hot water. When stiff peaks form (a process which, as the name suggests, takes about 7 minutes), the frosting is done.
seviche
An appetizer popular in Latin America consisting of raw fish marinated in citrus (usually lime) juice. The action of the acid in the lime juice "cooks" the fish, thereby firming the flesh and turning it opaque. Onions, tomatoes and green peppers are often added to the marinade. Only very fresh fish should be used for this dish. pompano, red snapper and sole are the fish most often selected for seviche (which is also spelled ceviche and cebiche ).
Seville orange
A popular bitter orange grown in the Mediterranean region. It has a thick, rough skin and an extremely tart, bitter flesh full of seeds. Because of its high acid content, the Seville is not an eating orange but (because of that same acidity) is extremely popular for making marmalades as well as liqueurs such as cointreau, curaçao, grand marnier and triple sec. The Seville orange also finds its way into sauces and relishes, and is a particular favorite with duck because its acidity helps counteract the fatty flavor. The dried peel is often used for seasoning. See also orange.
shabu-shabu
A Japanese dish consisting of raw meat (usually paper-thin slices of beef) and raw vegetables cooked by each diner at the table in a pot of hot broth. The freshly cooked ingredients can be dipped into a variety of sauces provided for additional flavor. Once the meat and vegetables have been cooked and eaten, the broth, sometimes with noodles added, is then served. The name is said to come from the sound that's made as the meat is gently swished through the broth.
Shad
The largest member of the herring family.
shallot
The name of this onion-family member (Allium ascalonicum ) comes from Ascalon, an ancient Palestinian city where the shallot is thought to have originated. Shallots are formed more like garlic than onions, with a head composed of multiple cloves, each covered with a thin, papery skin. The skin color can vary from pale brown to pale gray to rose, and the off-white flesh is usually barely tinged with green or purple. The two main types of shallots are the Jersey or "false" shallot (the larger of the two) and the more subtly flavored "true" shallot. Fresh green shallots are available in the spring, but as with garlic and onions, dry shallots (i.e., with dry skins and moist flesh) are available year-round. Choose dry-skinned shallots that are plump and firm; there should be no sign of wrinkling or sprouting. Refrigerate fresh shallots for up to a week. Store dry shallots in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place for up to a month. Freeze-dried and dehydrated forms are also available. Shallots are favored for their mild onion flavor and can be used in the same manner as onions.
shamogi; shamoji
A round Japanese spoon or paddle made from wood or bamboo, traditionally used only to toss and serve rice.
Shank
The front leg of beef, veal or lamb. Often a very tough cut of mean, the shank requires slow-cooking methods like braising.
sharbat
Popular in India, sharbat is a chilled, sweet drink flavored from fruit juice or flower petals, which is sometimes thick enough to eat with a spoon. It's similiar to charbat, a Middle Eastern drink that is the progenitor of present-day sherbet.
sharpening steel
Long and pointed, this thin round rod (also called a butcher's steel ) is made of extremely hard, high-carbon steel (some of diamond steel or ceramic) and is used to keep a fine edge on sharp knives. The rod is attached to a handle, which usually has a guard to protect the user's hand from the knife blade. Sharpening steels come in a variety of sizes, the ideal being about 12 inches long. Knives are sharpened by drawing them (while applying slight pressure) across the steel at a 20- to 30-degree angle. Doing this 5 to 6 times on both sides of the blade prior to each use keeps the blade razor-sharp. Dull blades will not be helped by a sharpening steel; they need to be resharpened on a whetstone and then fine-honed on a steel. For maximum efficiency, choose a sharpening steel that is longer than the knife to be sharpened. To prevent metal filings from building up, occasionally clean the steel according to manufacturer's directions.
shell
n. see hull. shell v. To remove the shell or tough outer covering of a food such as nuts, eggs, garden peas, etc. See also shuck.
shell steak
Depending on the locale, shell steak is another name for either a boneless club steak or a new york steak. In either case a shell steak should be tender, since both the club and the New York are cut from the short loin, the most tender section of beef. See also beef.
shepherd's pie
A dish of cooked ground or diced meat (traditionally lamb or mutton) mixed with gravy (and sometimes vegetables) and topped with mashed potatoes. The pie is then baked until the mixture is hot and the potato "crust" browns. Shepherd's pie was originally created as an economical way to use leftovers from the ubiquitous "Sunday roast."
sherbet
The origins of sherbet can be traced to a popular Middle Eastern drink (charbet ) made of sweetened fruit juice and water. Today the term sherbet commonly refers to a frozen mixture of sweetened fruit juice (or other liquid such as wine) and water. It can also contain milk, egg whites and/or gelatin. Sherbet is lighter than ice cream but richer than an ice. See also sorbet.
sherry
A fortified wine originally made in and around the town of Jerez in the Andalusia region of southern Spain. It's now also made in the United States and other parts of the world such as Australia and South Africa. As with many wines, sherries range from connoisseur quality to inexpensive mass-produced versions. The Spanish are the acknowledged experts, using the solera system of topping off older wines with the more recently made sherry. Thus there are no vintage sherries and the quality is consistent year after year. Sherries range in color, flavor and sweetness. finos are dry and light, while manzanillas are very dry, delicate finos with a hint of saltiness. Considered a medium sherry, the nutty-flavored amontillados are sweeter, softer and darker in color than finos. They're sometimes labeled milk sherry. The sweet olorosos are fuller flavored and darker than dry or medium sherries. They are usually aged longer and are also more expensive. Olorosos are often labeled cream or golden sherries. Sherries can be drunk as an apéritif or after dinner. Dry sherries are usually drunk chilled, sweet sherries at room temperature.
shichimi togarashi; shichimi
A peppery Japanese condiment made of seven different seasonings including red chile flakes (togarashi), sansho, white sesame seeds, nori (seaweed) flakes, bits of dried mandarin orange peel, black hemp seeds and white poppy seeds. Shichimi togarashi is available in hot, medium and mild strengths in most Asian markets. It's also called hichimi togarashi and seven spice seasoning.
Shiitake
Bold and meaty, these are called "black mushrooms" on Chinese menus.
shimeji
The Japanese name for the oyster mushroom.
shinma; shinmai
Japanese "new rice" that's harvested in the early fall. It's sweeter and more tender than regular rice and therefore requires less water and a shorter cooking time. This highly regarded rice is also spelled shinmei.
shioyaki
Japanese for "salt-grilled," referring to a traditional method of grilling beef, poultry or fish in particular. Instead of coating food with sauce, generous amounts of salt are rubbed over the surface. The meat or fish is often set aside for 30 minutes or more before being broiled or cooked over very hot coals.
shirataki
Thin, translucent, gelatinous noodles made from the starch of a yamlike tuber known as Devil's Tongue. Shirataki, which are the shredded form of konnyaku, have no discernable taste but absorb the dominant flavors of the soup or dish to which they're added. They can be found both in dry and soft forms in Asian markets and some supermarkets. The word shirataki means "white waterfall," alluding to the appearance of these noodles.
Shirley Temple
A nonalcoholic drink made with grenadine syrup and ginger ale and garnished with a maraschino cherry. It's popular with children who want to have a "cocktail" with the adults and was named after the 1930s child star.
shirred eggs
Eggs baked in a small dish with a covering of cream or milk and often topped with buttered bread crumbs. The whites of the finished dish are firm while the yolks are usually still soft.
shish kebab
Chunks of marinated meat (sometimes fish) and vegetables that are threaded on a skewer and grilled or broiled. Also called shashlik.
shiso
Aromatic green, jagged-edged leaf from the perilla (or beefsteak) plant, which is part of the mint and basil family. The versatile green shiso is used in salads, sushi and sashimi, cooked dishes like tempura and as a garnish. Green shiso is available fresh from summer to fall in Asian markets. It's also called perilla and Japanese basil. The less common and less aromatic red shiso is from a different plant species and is more likely to be found pickled than fresh.
shoga
The Japanese word for ginger. See also amazu shoga; beni shoga.
shoofly pie
Thought to be of Pennsylvania Dutch origin, the extremely sweet filling of a shoofly pie is a mixture of molasses, brown sugar, water and butter. There are several different stories concerning the origin of the pie's name. One is that it's so sweet that one must shoo away the flies; another declares that the pie was originally made to attract flies away from other foods.
short
Culinarily, this term is used to describe a nonyeast pastry or cookie dough that contains a high proportion of fat to flour. The baked goods made from short doughs are tender, rich, crumbly and crisp.
short loin
Of the major wholesale cuts of beef, this is the most tender. It lies in the middle of the back between the sirloin and the rib, and the muscles in this section do little that could toughen them. The two main muscles in the short loin are the tenderloin and the top loin. The elongated tenderloin muscle (when separated from the bone and the rest of the short loin) can be sold as tenderloin roasts (often labeled chateaubriands), or cut into tournedos; or filet mignon steaks. The top loin muscle with the bone attached is called a club steak. When removed from the bone, the same muscle is marketed as New York (or Kansas City ) strip steak; or delmonico steak. When the bone is left in and portions of both the tenderloin and top loin muscles are included, the short loin is the source of porterhouse steaks and T-bone steaks. See also beef.
short ribs
Rectangles of beef about 2 inches by 3 inches, usually taken from the chuck cut. Short ribs consist of layers of fat and meat and contain pieces of the rib bone. They're very tough and require long, slow, moist-heat cooking. See also beef.
shortbread
Though it's now a year-round favorite, this tender-crisp, butter-rich cookie was once associated mainly with Christmas and Hogmanay (Scottish New Year's Eve). The traditional round shape comes from the ancient Yule bannock, which was notched around the edges to signify the sun's rays. The classic way of making shortbread is to press the dough into a shallow earthenware mold that is decoratively carved. After baking, the large round cookie is turned out of the mold and cut into wedges. Today, more often than not, shortbread cookies are formed into simple squares or rounds.
shortcake
Though it's most commonly a rich biscuit, shortcake can also refer simply to cake. The classic American shortcake is a large, sweet biscuit that is split in half, then filled and topped with sliced or chopped fruit (traditionally strawberries) and softly whipped cream. Shortcake is most often thought of as a dessert but savory versions can be made by filling and topping the biscuit with creamed chicken or other food.
shot; shot glass
A small amount of alcohol, generally ranging from 1 to 1 1/2 ounces. A shot glass is the tiny drinking glass-shaped container in which such an amount is measured and/or served. An order for "a shot of whiskey" in a bar will produce a shot glass filled with spirits. The word jigger is synonymous with shot.
shottsuru
A Japanese fish sauce.
shoyu
Japanese for soy sauce.
shred
To cut food into narrow strips, either by hand or by using a grater or a food processor fitted with a shredding disk. Cooked meat can be separated into shreds by pulling it apart with two forks.
shrub
Colonial-day shrubs were spiked with liquor (usually brandy or rum) but today these fruit juice, sugar and vinegar drinks are usually nonalcoholic. Shrubs are served over ice, with or without soda water.
shuck
To peel the husk from an ear of corn.
Shumai
Filled Chinese dumplings that look like tiny, just-opening flower buds.
sidecar
The appellation of this cocktail is said to have come from its originator, who always traveled in a motorcycle sidecar. It consists of brandy, orange-flavored liqueur (such as cointreau or triple sec) and lemon juice, shaken with ice and strained into a cocktail glass.
sieve
n. see strainer. sieve v. To strain liquid or particles of food through the mesh or perforated holes of a sieve or strainer.
sift
To pass dry ingredients through a fine-mesh sifter so any large pieces can be removed. Sifting also incorporates air to make ingredients (such as confectioners' sugar or flour) lighter.
sifter
A mesh-bottomed kitchen utensil used to sift ingredients such as flour or confectioners' sugar. Sifters are usually made of stainless steel or heavy-weight plastic. There are versions with rotary cranks as well as those that are battery operated.
silver skin
Term for the thin, pearlescent membrane found on certain cuts of meat, such as a tenderloin. Silver skin is very tough and must be removed (with a sharp knife) in order to prevent the meat from curling during cooking.
simmer
To cook food gently in liquid at a temperature (about 185°F) low enough that tiny bubbles just begin to break the surface.
Singapore sling
Said to have originated at Singapore's Raffles Hotel, this cocktail consists of gin, cherry brandy and lemon juice shaken with ice and strained into a tall glass. The drink is finished by topping it off with soda water.
sirloin
This cut of beef lies between the very tender short loin and the much tougher round. As would be expected, the meat cuts from the portion near the short loin are more tender than those closer to the round. Sirloin is usually cut into steaks or roasts. Bone removed, the cuts are referred to by the names of the three main muscles. Top sirloin is a continuation of the tender top loin muscle of the short loin. The tenderloin is part of the tenderest muscle (which also continues from the short loin) and the bottom sirloin, which is part of the same (less tender) sirloin tip muscle found in the round. The best-known bone-in sirloin steaks (in order of tenderness) are pinbone, flat bone, round bone and wedge bone. See also beef.
sizzling rice soup
A Chinese specialty consisting of broth combined with chicken or beef (and sometimes fish) and various vegetables. Deep-fried rice squares are placed in each soup bowl; when the soup is ladled over the squares, the rice sizzles and pops.
skewer
n. A long, thin, pointed rod that comes in various sizes. Skewers are made of metal or wood; the former often has a ring at one end. They're most often used to hold meat in place during cooking, as well as to skewer meat and vegetables to be grilled for shish kebab. The best skewers are square or flat shapes that hold food securely when moved. skewer v. To impale small pieces of food on skewers.
skim
To remove the top layer from a liquid, such as cream from milk or foam and fat from stock, soups, sauces, etc.
skimmer
A metal kitchen utensil consisting of a handle attached to either a perforated disk or a shallow bowl-shaped wire mesh. Skimmers are used to lift foods out of hot liquids or to remove unwanted surface fat and foamy residue from soups, etc.
skin
v. To remove the skin of food before or after cooking. Skinning is done for a variety of reasons including appearance, taste and diet. Foods that are often skinned include poultry, fish and game.
skirt steak
Cut from the beef flank, the skirt steak is the diaphragm muscle (which lies between the abdomen and chest cavity). It's a long, flat piece of meat that's flavorful but rather tough. Properly cooked, skirt steak can be quite tender and delicious. It can either be quickly grilled, or stuffed, rolled and braised. Recently, skirt steak has become quite fashionable because of the delicious Southwestern dish, fajitas. See also beef.
Skordalia
Potatoes, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, vinegar, parsley and possibly breadcrumbs or nuts, blended into a sauce or dip.
Slicing
A general term that means to cut larger pieces of food into smaller, uniform pieces.
sling
An alcoholic drink made with lemon juice, powdered sugar and a liquor such as brandy, gin, vodka or whiskey. Slings are usually served in an old-fashioned glass, but occasionally they're served in a tall glass and topped off with soda water as in the singapore sling.
sliver
n. A long, thin piece of food such as meat or cheese, or a thin wedge of pie. sliver v. To cut food into thin strips.
slivovitz
A dry, colorless, slightly bitter plum brandy.
sloe
This wild European plum is the fruit of the blackthorn (Prunus spinosa ), which also bears showy white flowers. The purple-skinned sloe has an extremely tart yellow flesh. Though too sour for out-of-hand eating, sloes are used for jams, jellies and to flavor liqueurs such as prunelle and sloe gin. They're not generally available fresh in the United States.
sloe gin
A liqueur made by steeping pricked or crushed sloes in gin.
Sloppy Joe
A sandwich composed of a split hamburger bun topped with a mixture of cooked ground beef, onions, green peppers and spicy tomato sauce. The name seems to be related to its appearance and the fact that it's messy to eat.
slow cooker
Also called a crockpot, the slow cooker is an electric "casserole" that cooks food with low, steady, moist heat. It's designed to cook food over a period of 8 to 12 hours. These appliances range in size from 1 to 6 quarts. Slow cookers can cook a dish while you're at work, and they don't heat up the kitchen. On the minus side is that some vegetables (like celery) can become mushy before the other ingredients are done.
slumgullion
This slang term originated during the California Gold Rush and described dishes (usually stews) made from leftovers.
slump
An old-fashioned New England dessert of fruit, usually berries, topped with biscuit dough and stewed until the biscuit topping is cooked through. Also called grunt.
slurry
A thin paste of water and flour, which is stirred into hot preparations (such as soups, stews and sauces) as a thickener. After the slurry is added, the mixture should be stirred and cooked for several minutes in order for the flour to lose its raw taste.
smelt
The smelt is anadromous, meaning that it migrates from its North American saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. It's a small (average 4 to 7 inches long) fish with a translucent silver-green back shading into shimmering silver sides and belly. Its delicate flesh is rich, oily and mild-flavored. There are many varieties of this fish, the most widely distributed being the rainbow smelt, found along the Atlantic coast. Two popular Pacific Coast varieties are whitebait and eulachon. The latter is also called candlefish, a nickname that came about because Indians would dry these high-fat fish, run a wick through the flesh and use them for candles. Fresh smelts are best from September through May. Because they're very perishable, many are now flash-frozen immediately after being caught. They are also available canned. Smelts are marketed whole and are usually eaten that way head, viscera and bones. Though they can be cooked in a variety of ways, they're generally simply coated with flour and fried. See also fish.
smoke point
The stage at which heated fat begins to emit smoke and acrid odors, and impart an unpleasant flavor to foods. The higher the smoke point, the better suited a fat is for frying. Because both reusing fat and exposing it to air reduces its smoke point, it should be discarded after being used three times. Though processing affects an individual fat's smoke point slightly, the ranges for some of the more common fats are: butter (350°F); lard (361° to 401°F); vegetable shortenings (356° to 370°F); vegetable oils (441° to 450°F) corn, grapeseed, peanut and safflower oils all have high smoke points, while that of olive oil is relatively low (about 375°F). See also fats and oils.
smoked salmon
Fresh salmon that has undergone a smoking process, usually by one of two methods hot-smoking or cold-smoking. Hot-smoking is a process by which the fish is smoked from 6 to 12 hours at temperatures ranging from 120° to 180°F. The time and temperature depend on the size of the fish, how close it is to the source of smoke and the degree of flavor desired. In cold-smoking, a temperature of 70° to 90°F is maintained and the fish might remain in the smokehouse for anywhere from 1 day to 3 weeks. There are many types of smoked salmon. Indian-cure salmon is brined fish that has been cold-smoked for up to 2 weeks, which results in a form of salmon jerky. Kippered salmon U.S. style is a chunk, steak or fillet that has been soaked in a mild brine and hot-smoked. It's usually made from chinook salmon that has been dyed red. European kippered salmon differs in that it's a whole salmon that has been split before being brined and cold-smoked. Lox is brine-cured cold-smoked salmon, much of which is slightly saltier than other smoked salmon. Some lox, however, has had sugar added to the brine, which produces a less salty product. Lox is a favorite in American-Jewish cuisine, particularly when served with bagels and cream cheese. Nova or Nova Scotia salmon is an idiom used in the eastern United States that broadly describes cold-smoked salmon. Scotch-smoked, Danish-smoked and Irish-smoked salmon are all geographical references to cold-smoked Atlantic salmon (whereas the Pacific species usually coho or chinook treated in this manner is generally simply labeled smoked salmon ). Squaw candy consists of thin strips of salmon that has been cured in a salt-sugar brine before being hot-smoked. Other fish such as trout and haddock can also be smoked. See also salmon.
smoothie; smoothee
A beverage made by blending fruit with yogurt, milk or ice cream until it's thick and smooth.
smorgasbord
Swedish for "bread and butter table," smorgasbord has come to refer to a buffet consisting of a variety of foods such as various hors D'oeuvre, open-faced sandwiches, salads, cooked vegetables (which may be served hot or cold), pickled or marinated fish, sliced meats, cheeses and desserts. A smorgasbord may be simple or elaborate and can consist entirely of appetizers or make up the entire meal.
smorrebrod
Danish open-faced sandwiches.
snapper
There are about 250 species of this saltwater fish, 15 of which can be found in United States waters from the Gulf of Mexico to the coastal waters of North Carolina. Some of the better-known species include the gray snapper, mutton snapper, schoolmaster snapper and yellowtail snapper. By far the best known and most popular, however, is the red snapper, so named because of its reddish-pink skin and red eyes. Its flesh is firm textured and contains very little fat. Red snapper grows to 35 pounds but is most commonly marketed in the 2- to 8-pound range. The smaller sizes are often sold whole, while larger snappers can be purchased in steaks and fillets. Snapper is available fresh all year with the peak season in the summer months. It's suitable for virtually any cooking method. Though some varieties of rockfish are marketed under the names "Pacific snapper" and "red snapper," and a variety of tilefish is called "yellow snapper," none of these are true snapper. See also fish.
snickerdoodle
Originating in 19th-century New England, this whimsically named cookie has a characteristically crackly surface and can be either crisp or soft. The dough sometimes contains nutmeg and cinnamon as well as raisins and nuts. Traditionally, snickerdoodles are sprinkled with cinnamon sugar before being baked. The name appears to have no particular meaning or purpose... other than fun.
snifter
A short-stemmed, pear-shape glass that's larger at the bottom than it is at the top. Snifters are recommended for drinking fine brandy. When the brandy-filled snifter is cradled in the hands, the liquid warmed by body heat releases its delightful aroma.
snow
A light, frothy dessert made by chilling a mixture of stiffly beaten egg whites, sugar, gelatin and various flavorings. Adding lemon juice, for example, creates lemon snow.
snow pea
The fact that this legume is entirely edible including the pod accounts for its French name, mange-tout, or "eat it all." Its almost translucent, bright green pod is thin and crisp. The tiny seeds inside are tender and sweet. Snow peas are available year-round with peak seasons in the spring and fall. Choose crisp, brightly colored pods with small seeds. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 days. Both tips of a snow pea should be pinched off just before using. They're an essential vegetable in Chinese cooking and may also be used raw in salads. Snow peas are also called Chinese snow peas. See also pea.
soba
A Japanese noodle made from buckwheat and wheat flour, which gives it a dark brownish-gray color. Chasoba is a variation of the noodle made with green tea. See also asian noodles.
soda
1. Another name for baking soda. 2. A generic term for any flavored soft drink. 3. Any of many soda waters. 4. A fountain drink of one or more scoops of ice cream topped with a flavored soft drink or soda water and flavored syrup.
soda bread
A quick bread that is leavened with baking soda combined with an acid ingredient, usually buttermilk. irish soda bread is the best known of this genre.
soda water
Water that has been highly charged with carbon dioxide, which gives it effervescence. Soda water, also called club soda, seltzer water or just plain carbonated water, contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate, which, because it's alkaline, can help neutralize an acidic stomach. Soda water is combined with sweeteners and various flavorings to produce a wide variety of soft drinks. Many cocktails also use soda water as an ingredient. See also seltzer water.
sofrito
1. The Spanish sofrito is a sauce made by sautéing annatto seeds in rendered fat. The seeds are removed before chopped onions, green peppers, garlic, meat and various herbs are cooked in the flavored, now-red oil until the ingredients are tender and the mixture is thick. The sauce is used in recipes as needed. 2. The Italian soffrito is a similar mixture (usually chopped celery, green peppers, onions, garlic and herbs) sautéed in olive oil and used to flavor soups, sauces and meat dishes.
soft drinks
A generic term applied to beverages that do not contain alcohol. Soft drinks are most often thought of as carbonated, though effervescence is not a requisite.
soft-ball stage
A test for sugar syrup describing the point at which a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water forms a soft ball that flattens of its own accord when removed. On a candy thermometer, the soft-ball stage is between 234° and 240°F.
soft-crack stage
A test for sugar syrup describing the point at which a drop of boiling syrup immersed in cold water separates into hard though pliable threads. On a candy thermometer, the soft-crack stage is between 270° and 290°F.
sole
The popularity of sole dates back at least to the ancient Romans, who called it solea Jovi (Jupiter's sandal), undoubtedly because of the elongated-oval shape of this flatfish. Though a number of flounder family members (such as Petrale sole, lemon sole, rex sole and butter sole) are incorrectly called sole in the United States, the highly prized true sole is found only in European waters. The best-known of these is the Dover sole (also called Channel sole ), which is found in coastal waters from Denmark to the Mediterranean Sea. The body of the Dover sole averages about a foot long and ranges in color from pale gray to dark brown on the top side, with the underside a pale beige. Its delicately flavored flesh has a fine, firm texture. True Dover sole is imported frozen to the United States from several of the northern European countries and is available in better fish markets. Other true sole include the thickback and the sand (or partridge ) sole, both smaller and less flavorful than the Dover. Much of what is sold as Dover sole in the United States is actually flounder. Sole can be prepared in a variety of ways including poaching, steaming, baking, broiling and sautéing. It's ideally suited for combining with other foods and sauces. See also fish.
Somen
Thin, beige wheat noodles.
sommelier
The French term for a steward or waiter in charge of wine. For hundreds of years, sommeliers were responsible for the cellaring and serving of wines for royalty. Eventually the tradition of the sommelier spread to restaurants, where such an individual is expected to have extensive knowledge of wines and their suitability with various dishes.
sopa
The Spanish word for "soup."
sopa seca
Literally translated as "dry soup," sopa seca is really not a soup at all. It is, in fact, a dish usually based on rice, vermicelli or dry tortilla strips combined with tomatoes, onions and garlic and cooked in a broth. It's assumed that the name comes from the fact that, although the mixture begins "soupy," it is cooked until the liquid is entirely absorbed thereby becoming a "dry soup." The Mexicans usually serve sopa seca as a luncheon dish or as a separate course, much as Italians serve a pasta course.
sopaipilla
This crisp, puffy, deep-fried pastry resembles an air-filled pillow. The sopaipilla is thought to have originated in Albuquerque, New Mexico, more than 200 years ago. It's a favorite Southwestern U.S. dessert, usually served with honey or syrup flavored with anise or cinnamon. Sopaipillas are also sometimes filled with savory ingredients like refried beans.
sorbet
The French word for "sherbet," which Italians call sorbetto. Sorbet is sometimes distinguished from sherbet by the fact that it never contains milk. It's also often a softer consistency than sherbet. Savory or lightly sweetened sorbets are customarily served either as a palate refresher between courses or as dessert. They're sometimes also referred to as ices or granitas, though both of these mixtures are generally more granular in texture than a sorbet. See also sherbet.
sorbitol
A sweetener found naturally in some fruits and seaweeds. Besides being used as an artificial sweetener, sorbitol is employed as a thickener and stabilizer in candies, gums and numerous other food products.
sorghum
This cereal grass has broad, cornlike leaves and huge clusters of cereal grain at the end of tall, pithy stalks. Sorghum is a powerhouse of nutrition but, though it's the third leading cereal crop in the United States, almost all of it is used for animal fodder. Around the world, however, it's the third largest food grain. A few U.S. mills do sell it by mail order. One sorghum by-product the United States does use for human consumption is the sweet juice extracted from the stalks, which, like that from the sugarcane, is boiled down to produce a thick syrup called sorghum molasses (also sorghum syrup or simply sorghum ). It's often used as a table syrup and to sweeten and flavor baked goods.
Sorrel
A sour, buckwheat-related herb.
Soubise
The combination of béchamel (white sauce of milk butter and flour) with pureed cooked onions.
soufflé
A light, airy mixture that usually begins with a thick egg yolk-based sauce or puree that is lightened by stiffly beaten egg whites. Soufflés may be savory or sweet, hot or cold. Baked soufflés are much more fragile than those that are chilled or frozen because the hot air entrapped in the soufflé begins to escape (causing the mixture to deflate) as soon as the dish is removed from the oven. Savory soufflés are usually served as a main dish, are almost always hot and can be made with a variety of ingredients including cheese, meat, fish or vegetables. Dessert soufflés may be baked, chilled or frozen and are most often flavored with fruit purees, chocolate, lemon or liqueurs. Both sweet and savory soufflés are often accompanied by a complementary sauce. Soufflés are customarily baked in a classic soufflé dish, which is round and has straight sides to facilitate the soufflé's rising. These special dishes are ovenproof and come in a variety of sizes ranging from 3 1/2-ounce (individual) to 2-quart. They're available in kitchenware shops and the housewares section of most department stores. Foil or parchment "collars" are sometimes wrapped around the outside of a soufflé dish so that the top of the foil or paper rises about 2 inches above the rim of the dish. Such collars are used for cold dessert soufflés so that the sides of the frozen or molded mixture are supported until they set. Once the collar is removed, the soufflé stands tall and appears to "rise" out of the dish.
soul food
Though this traditional African-American fare has long been popular in the South, the term itself is relatively new (circa 1960). The expression "soul food" is thought to have derived from the cultural spirit and soul-satisfying flavors of black-American food. Some of the dishes commonly thought of as soul food include grits, black-eyed peas and collard greens.
soup
Theoretically, a soup can be any combination of vegetables, meat or fish cooked in a liquid. It may be thick (like gumbo), thin (such as a consommé), smooth (like a bisque) or chunky (chowder or bouillabaisse). Though most soups are hot, some like vichyssoise and many fruit soups are served cold. Soups are often garnished with flavor enhancers such as croutons, grated or cubed cheese or sour cream. They can be served as a first course or as a meal, in which case they're often accompanied by a sandwich or salad. See also avgo-lemono; billy bi; borscht; bourride; caldo verde; callaloo; caudière; chlodnik; cock-A-leekie; cotriade; coulis; cush; dashi; dubarry; fruit soup; garbure; gazpacho; menudo; minestra; mock turtle; mulligatawny; ozoni; panada; pepper pot; pistou; posole; ribollita; scotch broth; sizzling rice soup; won ton soup.
sour
n. A cocktail made by combining liquor with lemon juice and a little sugar. It's usually shaken with crushed ice and can be strained and served on the rocks or straight up. Sours are often garnished with an orange slice and a maraschino cherry. Though the whiskey sour is probably the most famous of these cocktails, they can be made with many other liquors including bourbon, gin and rum. sour adj. Having a sharp, tart taste, usually from an acidic ingredient such as lemon juice or vinegar.
sour cream
Commercial sour cream contains from 18 to 20 percent fat, and has been treated with a lactic acid culture to add its characteristic tang. Sour cream often contains additional ingredients such as gelatin, rennin and vegetable enzymes. Light sour cream contains about 40 percent less fat than regular sour cream because it's made from half-and-half. There's also a nonfat sour cream, which is thickened with stabilizers. Refrigerate sour cream in its carton for up to a week after the date stamped on the bottom of the container. If any mold forms on the cream's surface, discard it immediately.
sourdough; sourdough bread
A bread with a slightly sour, tangy flavor created by using a special yeast starter as the leavener. San Francisco is known for its superior sourdough bread and many food stores in the area sell packages of dry sourdough starter for home bread bakers. Though most sourdoughs are made from all-purpose flour, there are many delicious variations including those made from whole-wheat or rye flour.
sous vide
French for "under vacuum," sous vide is a food-packaging technique pioneered in Europe whereby fresh ingredients are combined into various dishes, vacuum-packed in individual-portion pouches, cooked under a vacuum, then chilled. Sous vide food is used most often by hotels, restaurants and caterers, though it's expected to become increasingly available in supermarkets.
Southern Comfort
Produced in St. Louis, Missouri, this traditional American liqueur is made from bourbon and peaches. Southern Comfort is potent at 100 proof (50 percent alcohol).
souvlaki; souvlakia
This Greek specialty consists of lamb chunks that have been marinated in a mixture of oil, lemon juice, oregano and seasonings before being skewered and grilled. Some souvlakia skewers also include chunks of vegetables such as green pepper or onion.
soy flour
This finely ground flour is made from soybeans and, unlike many flours, is very high in protein (twice that of wheat flour) and low in carbohydrates. Soy flour is ordinarily mixed with other flours rather than being used alone. It has a wide variety of uses such as for baking and to bind sauces. In Japan, it's very popular for making confections. Soy flour is sold in health-food stores sometimes under the name kinako and in some supermarkets.
soy milk
Higher in protein than cow's milk, this milky, iron-rich liquid is a nondairy product made by pressing ground, cooked soybeans. Soy milk is cholesterol-free and low in calcium, fat and sodium. It makes an excellent milk substitute for anyone with a milk allergy; such milk substitutes are often fortified with calcium. There are also soy-based formulas for infants with milk allergies. Soy milk has a tendency to curdle when mixed with acidic ingredients such as lemon juice and wine; it's intentionally curdled in the making of tofu.
soy sauce
This extremely important ingredient in Asian cooking is a dark, salty sauce made by fermenting boiled soybeans and roasted wheat or barley. Although there is essentially one main type of soy sauce widely made in the United States, China and Japan produce a number of varieties ranging in color from light to dark and in texture from thin to very thick. In general, light soy sauce is thinner and saltier than its dark counterpart. Its flavor and color is also lighter and it may be used in dishes without darkening them. Dark soy sauce is slightly thicker than light soy sauce but generally not as salty. It has a richer flavor and color (which is usually darkened with caramel). Chinese black soy is extremely dark and thick, a result obtained from the addition of molasses. The Japanese tamari is very similiar thick, rich and extremely dark. Unless otherwise indicated on the label, soy sauce may be kept for many months in a cool, dark place. There are also many low-sodium or "lite" soy sauces available on the market. Soy sauce is used to flavor soups, sauces, marinades, meat, fish and vegetables, as well as for a table condiment.
soybean
It's thought that the first written record of soybeans is dated 2838 b.c., and the Chinese have been cultivating them for thousands of years. So important are soybeans to the Chinese that they're considered one of the five sacred grains along with rice, wheat, barley and millet. Soybeans didn't find their way to Japan until the 6th century and to Europe until the 17th century. Their extraordinary nutritive value was not scientifically confirmed until the 20th century. Although the United States didn't really become interested in soybeans until the 1920s, it now supplies one-third of the world's total production. There are over 1,000 varieties of this nutritious legume, ranging in size from as small as a pea to as large as a cherry. Soybean pods, which are covered with a fine tawny to gray fuzz, range in color from tan to black. The beans themselves come in various combinations of red, yellow, green, brown and black. Their flavor is generally quite bland, which may explain why they weren't embraced by Western cultures until their nutritive value was discovered. Unlike other legumes, the soybean is low in carbohydrates and high in protein and desirable oil. Because they're inexpensive and nutrition-packed, soybeans are used to produce a wide variety of products including tofu (soybean curd), soybean oil, soy flour, soy milk, soy sauce, miso and tamari. Soybeans can be cooked (after being presoaked) like any other dried bean to be used in soups, stews, casseroles, etc. They can also be sprouted (see sprouts) and used in salads or as a cooked vegetable. Additionally, soybean by-products are used in making margarines, as emulsifiers in many processed foods and in nonfood items such as soaps and plastics. Fresh soybeans are not generally available except in Asian markets or specialty produce markets in late summer and early fall. Dried soybeans, beans for sprouting and a huge variety of soybean products are available in supermarkets and health-food stores. The soybean is also called soya bean, soy pea, soja and soi. See also beans.
soybean oil
Extracted from soybeans, this light yellowish oil is high in both polyunsaturated fats (58 percent) and monounsaturated fats (23 percent), and low in saturated fats (15 percent). It's used extensively in the United States in the manufacture of margarine and shortening. Soybean oil has always been popular as a cooking oil in Chinese cuisine and is gaining favor in the United States because it is inexpensive, healthful and has a high smoke point. See also fats and oils.
Spätlese
German for "late picking," this wine term refers to grapes that are picked after the regular harvest. Because such fruit is riper, it contains more sugar and produces wines that are rich and sweet. The selective picking process also makes them quite expensive. See also auslese; beerenauslese; trockenbeerenauslese.
Spaetzle
Tiny flour-and-egg noodles or dumplings.
spaghetti
Like its cousin macaroni, spaghetti is made from semolina and water. Sometimes eggs are added. The name of this pasta comes from the Italian word for "strings" and in general spaghetti is in the form of long, thin strands that are round and solid. Spaghettini is very thin spaghetti (but thicker than vermicelli). Some spaghettis like fettuccine and linguine are flat rather than round. On the other hand, fusilli is a spiral shape, rather than being straight.
spaghetti squash
Also called vegetable spaghetti, this creamy-yellow, watermelon-shaped winter squash was so named because of its flesh, which, when cooked, separates into yellow-gold spaghettilike strands. Averaging from 4 to 8 pounds, spaghetti squash are available year-round with a peak season from early fall through winter. Choose squash that are hard and smooth with an even pale yellow color. Avoid greenish squash (a sign of immaturity) and those with bruised or damaged spots. Store uncut spaghetti squash at room temperature for up to 3 weeks. After the whole squash is baked, the rather bland-tasting strands can be removed from the shell and served with sauce, like pasta. They can also be served as part of a casserole or cold as a salad ingredient. See also squash.
Spanakopita
Greek spinach pie.
Spanish melon
This muskmelon family member is large and egg-shaped, with a ribbed green skin and a pale green flesh. Its flavor is succulent and sweet, much like that of a crenshaw melon. Spanish melons are available from early July to November. See also melon.
spareribs
A long, narrow cut of meat taken from the lower portion of the ribs and breastbone. Spareribs are quite fatty, which contributes to their delicious flavor. Barbecuing spareribs (usually after they've been marinated) is the most popular method of preparation.
spatula
A flattish, rather narrow kitchen utensil that comes in a variety of shapes and sizes. Depending on the material from which it's made (which includes wood, metal, rubber and plastic), spatulas can be used for a plethora of kitchen tasks. Rigid wood spatulas are good for scraping the sides of pots and turning foods, whereas softer plastic or rubber spatulas are better for stirring ingredients in a curved bowl and folding mixtures together. Flexible metal spatulas both long and short are perfect for spreading frosting on cakes. See also turner.
spelt
Native to southern Europe, where it's been used for millenniums, spelt is an ancient cereal grain that has a mellow nutty flavor. The easily digestible spelt has a slightly higher protein content than wheat and can be tolerated by those with wheat allergies. Spelt flour, available in health-food stores, can be substituted for wheat flour in baked goods.
Spice Parisienne
The market name for a complex spice and herb blend, also called epices fines. French cooks usually make their own blends, which can vary greatly depending on the individual. In general, Spice Parisienne includes white pepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves, sage, marjoram and rosemary. As with all spices, this blend should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. See also spices.
spinach
Originating in the Middle East, spinach was being grown in Spain during the 8th century, and the Spaniards are the ones who eventually brought it to the United States. Popeye's addiction to this "power-packed" vegetable comes from the fact that it's a rich source of iron as well as of vitamins A and C. But because spinach contains oxalic acid which inhibits the body's absorption of calcium and iron the truth is that its nutritional value is somewhat diminished. It's this same oxalic acid that gives spinach its slightly bitter taste, which is prized by some while others find it off-putting. Spinach has dark green leaves that, depending on the variety, may be either curled or smooth. The smaller New Zealand spinach has flat, spade-shape leaves that are often covered with a fine fuzz. Fresh spinach is available year-round. Choose leaves that are crisp and dark green with a nice fresh fragrance. Avoid those that are limp, damaged or which have yellow spots. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 days. Spinach, which is usually very gritty, must be thoroughly rinsed. Frozen and canned spinach is also available. Spinach may be used raw in salads, or cooked (usually by boiling or sautéing) and used as a vegetable or as part of a dish. Many dishes that use spinach as an integral ingredient are appended with the phrase à la florentine.
sponge
1. A frothy, gelatin-based dessert that has been lightened by the addition of beaten egg whites. Sometimes whipped cream is added, though it makes the dessert richer and not as airy. Sponges may be variously flavored, usually with fruit purees. 2. A light bread-dough mixture made by combining the yeast with some of the flour and liquid called for in a recipe. The thick, batterlike mixture is covered and set aside until it bubbles and becomes foamy, which, depending on the combination of ingredients, can take up to 8 hours. During this time, the sponge develops a tangy flavor. The remaining ingredients are added to this sponge and the bread is kneaded and baked as usual. Using a sponge also makes the final loaf slightly denser.
sponge cake; spongecake
This light, airy cake gets its ethereal texture from beaten egg whites, which are folded into a fluffy mixture of beaten egg yolks and sugar. They get their leavening power entirely from eggs. Sponge cakes are further characterized by the fact that they do not contain shortening of any kind. The cakes can be variously flavored with anything from lemon zest to ground almonds.
spoom
A frothy type of sherbet made with a light sugar syrup mixed with a liquid such as fruit juice, champagne or sauternes. Halfway through the freezing process, the mixture is combined with uncooked meringue, which gives spoom its airy texture. The Italians call this frozen specialty spuma, which means "foam" or "froth."
spoon bread; spoonbread
A puddinglike bread usually based on cornmeal and baked in a casserole dish. Spoon bread is generally served as a side dish and, in fact, is soft enough that it must be eaten with a spoon or fork.
sprat
A close relative of the herring, the sprat is a small (about 6 inches in length) fish that can be found off the European Atlantic coast. Because of its high fat content, sprats are perfect for broiling or grilling. They're also available either salted or smoked. The smallest sprats are packed in oil, in which case they're usually called brisling or brisling sardines. See also fish.
springform pan
A round pan with high, straight sides (2 1/2 to 3 inches) that expand with the aid of a spring or clamp. The separate bottom of the pan can be removed from the sides when the clamp is released. This allows cakes, tortes or cheesecakes that might otherwise be difficult to remove from the pan to be extricated easily by simply removing the pan's sides.
spritz
n. 1. Pretty Scandinavian cookies formed into a variety of fanciful shapes when the dough is forced through a cookie press. Spritz are rich and buttery. 2. A small amount of liquid, as in a "spritz" of lemon juice. The name comes from spritzen, which is German for "to squirt or spray." spritz v. To quickly spray or squirt, as in adding a "spritz" of soda to a mixed drink.
spritzer
A tall, chilled drink, customarily made with wine and soda water.
sprouts
The crisp, tender sprouts of various germinated beans and seeds. Mung bean sprouts, used often in Chinese cooking, are the most popular. However, other seeds and beans such as alfalfa and radish seeds, lentils, soybeans and wheat berries may also be sprouted. For optimum crispness, sprouts are best eaten raw. They may also be stir-fried or sautéed, but should only be cooked for 30 seconds or less; longer cooking will wilt the sprouts. Though you may grow your own fresh sprouts (refer to a general cookbook), they're available in most large supermarkets. Choose crisp-looking sprouts with the buds attached; avoid musty-smelling, dark or slimy-looking sprouts. Mung-bean sprouts should be refrigerated in a plastic bag for no more than 3 days. More delicate sprouts like alfalfa sprouts should be refrigerated in the ventilated plastic container in which they're usually sold and kept for no more than 2 days. Canned mung-bean sprouts available in most supermarkets do not have either the texture or flavor of fresh.
Spuma
alt spellings: SpoomFrothy sherbert.
spumante
The Italian word for "sparkling," as in wine. See also asti spumante.
spumoni
This frozen molded Italian dessert consists of two layers of ice cream (such as chocolate and vanilla) between which is sandwiched a layer of sweetened whipped cream that has been flavored with rum and mixed with toasted nuts and candied fruit. Sometimes the ice cream is lightened with whipped cream or beaten egg whites before being spooned into the mold. Spumoni is cut into slices and sometimes served with a sweet sauce that complements the ice cream flavors.
spun sugar
Fine strands of hardened boiled sugar that are used to decorate various desserts. Spun sugar begins by cooking sugar, water and cream of tartar to the hard-crack stage. A fork or whisk is then used to dip into the sugar syrup and draw out fine threads. These hairlike strands can be placed directly on a dessert or on a waxed paper-lined surface, then transferred later to the dish. Once the spun sugar hardens, it may also be gathered and sprinkled or arranged on top of a dessert. cotton candy is a popular form of spun sugar.
squab
A young (about 4 weeks old) domesticated pigeon that has never flown and is therefore extremely tender. It was a popular special-occasion dish in Victorian England. Squabs usually weigh 1 pound or less and have delicately flavored dark meat. Fresh squab is available throughout the summer months (year-round in some regions) in gourmet markets. Frozen squab is marketed year-round. Choose fresh birds by their plump, firm appearance. Store as for chicken. Likewise, squab can be prepared in any manner suitable for chicken. A classic method is to stuff and roast it.
squash
The fruit of various members of the gourd family native to the Western Hemisphere. There is evidence of squash being eaten in Mexico as far back as 5500 B.C., and in South America over 2,000 years ago. Squash varies widely in size, shape and color. Generally, they're divided into two categories summer squash and winter squash. Summer squash have thin, edible skins and soft seeds. The tender flesh has a high water content, a mild flavor and doesn't require long cooking. The most widely available varieties of summer squash are crookneck, pattypan and zucchini. Summer squash is best from early through late summer, although some varieties are available year-round in certain regions. Select the smaller specimens with bright-colored skin free of spots and bruises. Summer squash is very perishable and should be refrigerated in a plastic bag for no more than 5 days. It can be prepared by a variety of methods including steaming, baking, sautéing and deep-frying. Summer squash are high in vitamins A and C as well as niacin. Winter squash have hard, thick skins and seeds. The deep yellow to orange flesh is firmer than that of summer squash and therefore requires longer cooking. Winter squash varieties include acorn, buttercup, butternut, hubbard, spaghetti and turban. Though most varieties are available year-round, winter squash is best from early fall through the winter. Choose squash that are heavy for their size and have a hard, deep-colored rind free of blemishes or moldy spots. The hard skin of a winter squash protects the flesh and allows it to be stored longer than summer squash. It does not require refrigeration and can be kept in a cool, dark place for a month or more, depending on the variety. Once the seeds are removed, winter squash can be baked, steamed or simmered. They're a good source of iron, riboflavin and vitamins A (more than summer squash) and C. See also calabaza; cushaw; delicata; golden nugget; kabocha; pumpkin; vegetable marrow; squash blossoms.
squash blossoms
The flowers from either summer or winter squash are edible and delicious. Squash blossoms come in varying shades of yellow and orange, with flavors that hint of the squash itself. They can be found from late spring through early fall in specialty produce markets as well as Italian, Latin and Filipino markets. Squash blossoms are naturally soft and somewhat limp, but choose those that look fresh, with closed buds. They're extremely perishable and should be stored in the refrigerator for no more than a day. Squash blossoms may be used as a garnish (whole or slivered) for almost everything from soups to main dishes. They also add color and flavor to salads. The most common method of cooking them is sautéing, often after coating the blossoms with a light batter. Squash blossoms are sometimes stuffed with ingredients such as soft cheese before being baked or batter-dipped and fried. They contain vitamins A and C, as well as iron and calcium. See also flowers, edible.
stabilizers
Additives used to help maintain emulsions or prevent degeneration in foods. Dextrin and gums like gum arabic, gum tragacanth, guar gum and xanthan gum are commonly used stabilizers.
stainless steel cookware
Stainless steel cookware has many advantages: it doesn't react (as does aluminum) with acidic or alkaline foods; it is corrosion-resistant, strong and easy to clean; and it doesn't scratch, pit or dent easily. The main disadvantage of stainless steel is its poor heat conductivity, a problem somewhat reduced in heavy, well-made pans. The best of all possible worlds is achieved by "sandwiched" cookware, with a layer of either aluminum or copper (both excellent at conducting heat) between two thin sheets of stainless steel.
star anise
A star-shaped, dark brown pod that contains a pea-sized seed in each of its eight segments. Native to China, star anise comes from a small evergreen tree. Although the flavor of its seeds is derived from anethol (the same oil that gives anise seed its pronounced flavor), star anise has a different heritage the magnolia family. Its flavor is slightly more bitter than that of regular anise seed. In Asian cuisines, star anise is a commonly used spice and tea flavoring. It's also widely used to flavor liqueurs and baked goods in Western cultures. It can be found whole in Asian markets and some supermarkets, and as a ground ingredient in Chinese five-spice powder.
Stayman apple
A striped, dull red apple with an off-white flesh that's juicy, crisp and tart. The Stayman apple is good both raw and cooked. It's available from late October to April. See also apple.
steak and kidney pie
A traditional British dish consisting of a cooked mixture of chopped beef, kidneys, mushrooms, onions and beef stock. This mixture is placed in a pie or casserole dish, covered with a pastry crust and baked until crisp and brown. Sometimes potatoes, hard-cooked eggs or oysters are also added to the dish.
steak au poivre
Steak that is covered with coarsely ground pepper before being sautéed or broiled. Steak au poivre is usually finished either by topping it with a chunk of sweet butter or by making a simple sauce from the pan drippings. Elaborate presentations often call for flaming (see flambé) the steak with brandy. Also called pepper steak.
steam
A method of cooking whereby food is placed on a rack or in a special steamer basket over boiling or simmering water in a covered pan. Steaming does a better job than boiling or poaching of retaining a food's flavor, shape, texture and many of the vitamins and minerals.
steamed bread
boston brown bread is probably the most famous steamed bread in the United States. This type of bread is made by placing a batter in a covered container on a rack set over gently boiling water in a large pot. The pot is covered and the bread steamed for about 3 hours. It can also be made in a pressure cooker in about half the time. The bread doesn't require a special container in which to be steamed a 12-ounce coffee can covered with aluminum foil works nicely. The characteristic texture of steamed breads is moist and tender.
steamed pudding
A sweet or savory pudding that is cooked (usually in a special steamed-pudding mold) on a rack over boiling water in a covered pot. The pudding mold is usually decorative so that when the finished pudding (which is firm) is unmolded it retains its decorative shape. Steamed puddings can take up to 3 hours to cook on stovetop, half that time in a pressure cooker. They're customarily served with a sauce. The traditional Christmas plum pudding, for instance, is customarily accompanied with hard sauce.
steamed-pudding mold
Although steamed pudding can be cooked in a variety of containers, there are special steamed-pudding molds with decorative sides and bottom, as well as a lid that clamps tightly shut. Many molds also have a central tube (like an angel-food cake pan) that provides more even heat distribution, thereby cooking the pudding more evenly.
steep
To soak dry ingredients such as tea leaves, ground coffee, herbs, spices, etc. in liquid (usually hot) until the flavor is infused into the liquid. See also infusion.
stelle; stellini
Italian for "stars," stelle is a pasta shaped like stars; stellini are little stars.
stew
n. Any dish that is prepared by stewing. The term is most often applied to dishes that contain meat, vegetables and a thick soup- like broth resulting from a combination of the stewing liquid and the natural juices of the food being stewed. stew v. A method of cooking by which food is barely covered with liquid and simmered slowly for a long period of time in a tightly covered pot. Stewing not only tenderizes tough pieces of meat but also allows the flavors of the ingredients to blend deliciously.
stifado
A casserole-baked Greek stew made with meat (beef or lamb), tomatoes, pearl onions, white wine, garlic, cinnamon and oregano.
Stilton cheese
This marvelous blue cheese is the English contender for "King of Cheeses." Although it is made in parts of Leicestershire, Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire, it received its name in the 18th century because it was first sold in the small village of Stilton in Huntingdonshire. Stilton is made from whole cow's milk and allowed to ripen for 4 to 6 months, during which time it is skewered numerous times to encourage the growth of Pencillium roqueforti mold (also present in roquefort cheese). This process creates a pale yellow interior with blue-green veins. The texture is rich and creamy (45 percent fat) but slightly crumbly. The flavor has a mellow CHEDDARlike quality with the pungency of blue cheese. Stilton is sold in tall cylinders with a crusty brownish rind. In addition to this better-known mature version, there is also a young white Stilton that is marketed before the colored veins develop. It has a mild and slightly sour flavor. Stilton is at its best eaten by itself with a glass of port or a full-bodied dry red wine. See also cheese.
stinger
A cocktail classically made with equal parts brandy or cognac and white crème de menthe. Other stinger versions can be made substituting another spirit or liqueur for the brandy or cognac, but the white crème de menthe is intrinsic to the drink.
stir-fry
n. Any dish of food that has been prepared by the stir-fry method. stir-fry v. To quickly fry small pieces of food in a large pan over very high heat while constantly and briskly stirring the food. This cooking technique, which is associated with Asian cooking and the wok, requires a minimum amount of fat and results in food that is crisply tender.
stock
In the most basic terms, stock is the strained liquid that is the result of cooking vegetables, meat or fish and other seasoning ingredients in water. A brown stock is made by browning bones, vegetables and other ingredients before they're cooked in the liquid. Most soups begin with a stock of some kind, and many sauces are based on reduced stocks.
stollen
Germany's traditional Christmas yeast bread, stollen is a rich, dried fruit-filled loaf that's often topped with a confectioners' sugar icing and decorated with candied cherries. It's shaped like a folded oval and somewhat resembles a giant parker house roll.
stoneware
Strong, hard pottery that is fired at very high temperatures (around 2,200°F) and that is usually fully glazed. Stoneware is generally nonporous, chip-resistant and safe to use in both microwave and standard ovens. It's ideal for baking and slow cooking.
stout
A strong, dark beer that originated in the British Isles. Stout is more redolent of hops than regular beer and is made with dark-roasted barley, which gives it a deep, dark color and bittersweet flavor. See also beer.
Stracchino
A fresh, cow's-milk cheese from Italy's Lombardy region. Stracchino contains about 50 percent milk fat. Its flavor is mild and delicate similar to but slightly more acidic than cream cheese. Stracchino Crescenza has a somewhat higher milk fat content, which results in a slightly creamier texture.
straight up
This term is used to describe cocktails that are served without ice.
strain
1. To pour a liquid or dry ingredient through a sieve, strainer or cheesecloth to remove undesirable particles. 2. To press soft food through the holes of a sieve, which results in a pureed texture. Food for infants or those on special diets is sometimes processed this way.
strainer
A kitchen utensil with a perforated or mesh bottom used to strain liquids or semiliquids, or to sift dry ingredients such as flour or confectioners' sugar. Strainers, also called sieves, come in a variety of sizes, shapes and mesh densities. There are flat-bottomed, drum-shaped strainers with interchangeable meshes of different coarseness, as well as those that are bowl-shaped and some that are conical. Strainers are made of various materials including stainless steel, tinned steel and aluminum. The better ones have strong handles and frames and contain hooks for resting the strainer on top of pots or bowls.
straw mushroom
Popular in Asian cooking, straw mushrooms are so named because they're grown on straw that's been used in a paddy. This musty, earthy growing medium contributes its distinct nuances to this mushroom's flavor. Tiny (about 1 to 1 1/2 inches in diameter) and coolie-shaped, straw mushrooms range in color from pale tan when young to dark charcoal gray when mature. Fresh specimens of this cultivated mushroom can sometimes be found in specialty produce markets. More readily available are canned straw mushrooms, which are found in Asian markets. Also known as paddy straw mushrooms and grass mushrooms. See also mushrooms.
straw potatoes
Potatoes cut into very thin, long sticks and then deep-fried.
strawberries Romanoff
This deliciously decadent dessert is made by soaking strawberries in orange juice and curaçao or cointreau, then serving them topped with whipped cream. It's one of many dishes named after the Russian royal family by French chefs.
strawberry
Sixteenth-century author William Butler wrote this tribute to the strawberry: "Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did." Red, juicy and conically shaped, the strawberry is a member of the rose family and has grown wild for centuries in both the Americas and Europe. The Romans valued the fruit for its reputed therapeutic powers for everything from loose teeth to gastritis. However, it wasn't until the late 13th century that the plant was first cultivated. The most common American variety is the result of several centuries of crossbreeding of the wild Virginia strawberry (North America's main native strawberry) and a Chilean variety. It's probably today's most hardy berry and is able to withstand both shipping and storage. More flavorful, however, are European Alpine strawberries the tiny, exquisitely sweet wild strawberries of France known as fraises des bois ("strawberries of the woods"). They're considered by many to be the "queen of strawberries." Strawberries vary in size, shape and color (some are off-white or yellowish). In general, the flavor of the smaller berries is better than that of the larger varieties since the latter are often watery. Fresh strawberries are available year-round in many regions of the country, with the peak season from April to June. Choose brightly colored, plump berries that still have their green caps attached and which are uniform in size. Avoid soft, shriveled or moldy berries. Do not wash until ready to use, and store (preferably in a single layer on a paper towel) in a moistureproof container in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days. Fresh strawberries are wonderful eaten with cream, macerated in wine or liqueur or used in various desserts. Canned and frozen strawberries are also available. Commercial strawberry products include preserves, jams, jellies, syrups and various desserts. Strawberries are an excellent source of vitamin C and also provide some potassium and iron.
Strega
A golden-colored Italian liqueur made from herbs and flowers, Strega has a sweet, mildy flowery flavor.
streusel
A crumbly topping consisting of flour, sugar, butter and various spices that is sprinkled on coffeecakes, breads, muffins and cakes. The word streusel is German for "sprinkle" or "strew."
striped bass
From the Atlantic coast, this true bass is also called striper, greenhead, squidhound and, in the Chesapeake Bay region, rockfish (not to be confused with the species rockfish). The striped bass is anadromous, meaning that it migrates from a saltwater habitat to spawn in fresh water. It can range in size from 2 to 70 pounds, though market weight is usually between 2 and 15 pounds. The striped bass is olive green fading to silver, and has 6 to 8 longitudinal black stripes. It has a moderately fat, firm-textured flesh with a mild, sweet flavor. Striped bass can be prepared in a variety of ways including broiling, grilling, poaching and steaming. Both white bass and yellow bass are freshwater members of the striped bass family. See also fish.
stroganoff
Named after 19th- century Russian diplomat Count Paul Stroganov, this dish consists of thin slices of tender beef (usually tenderloin or top loin), onions and sliced mushrooms, all quickly sautéed in butter and combined with a sour-cream sauce. Stroganoff is usually accompanied by rice pilaf.
stromboli
A specialty of Philadelphia, a stromboli is a CALZONElike enclosed sandwich of cheese (usually mozzarella) and pepperoni (or other meat) wrapped in pizza dough.
strudel
German for "whirlpool" or "eddy," strudel is a type of pastry made up of many layers of very thin dough spread with a filling, then rolled and baked until crisp and golden brown. It's particularly popular in Germany, Austria and much of central Europe. The paper-thin strudel dough resembles phyllo and is equally difficult to handle. Apple strudel is probably the most famous of this genre, but the filling variations are limitless and can be savory or sweet.
stud
v. Culinarily, "stud" means to insert flavor-enhancing or decorative edible items (such as whole cloves, slivered almonds or garlic slivers) partway into the surface of a food so that they protrude slightly.
su
Japanese rice vinegar. The mild and slightly sweet su may be used variously, such as a dressing for sunomono (vinegared food) and other foods, for seasoning, in acidulated water to retain color in vegetables and in sushi meshi, the rice used for sushi dishes. It's available in Asian markets and most larger supermakets.
succotash
This southern United States favorite is a cooked dish of lima beans, corn kernels and sometimes chopped red and green sweet peppers. The name is taken from the Naragansett Indian word msickquatash, "boiled whole kernels of corn."
Sucralose
An artificial sweetener that's about 600 times sweeter than sugar. Although not approved by the Federal Drug Administration at this writing, Sucralose is already being used in Australia and Canada under the brand name Splendar. This crystalline, free-flowing sweetener is both water soluble and stable, making it appropriate for a broad range of foods and beverages. See also acesulfame-K; alitame; aspartame; saccharin.
sucrose
A crystalline, water-soluble sugar obtained from sugarcane, sugar beets and sorghum. Sucrose also forms the greater part of maple sugar. It's sweeter than glucose but not as sweet as fructose. See also sugar.
Suet
The harder fat near the kidneys and loins in beef and mutton.
sugar
Once a luxury only the extremely affluent could afford, sugar was called "white gold" because it was so scarce and expensive. Although Persia and ancient Arabia were cultivating sugar in the 4th century b.c., the Western World didn't know of it until the 9th century when the Moors conquered the Iberian peninsula. Early sugar wasn't the granulated, alabaster substance most of us know today. Instead, it came in the form of large, solid loaves or blocks ranging in color from off-white to light brown. Chunks of this rock-hard substance had to be chiseled off and ground to a powder with a mortar and pestle. Modern-day sugar is no longer scarce or expensive and comes in myriad forms from many origins. Sugar cane and sugar beets are the sources of most of today's sugar, also known as sucrose (which also comes from maple sap see maple sugar and sorghum). Other common forms of sugar are dextrose (grape or corn sugar), fructose (levulose), lactose (milk sugar) and maltose (malt
sugar snap pea
Also called sugar pea, this delightfully sweet pea is a cross between the english pea and the snow pea. It's entirely edible pod and all. Sugar snap peas are available during spring and fall. Choose plump, crisp pods with a bright green color. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 days. Sugar snap peas should be served raw or only briefly cooked in order to retain their crisp texture. See also pea.
sugar syrup
Also called simple syrup, sugar syrup is a solution of sugar and water that is cooked over low heat until clear, then boiled for a minute or so. Sugar syrup can be made in various densities thin (3 parts water to 1 part sugar), medium (2 parts water to 1 part sugar) and heavy (equal parts water and sugar). Depending on the thickness, sugar syrups have various uses including soaking cakes (such as babas), glazing baked goods, poaching or preserving fruit, adding to frostings, etc. Sugar syrups are the basis for most candies and can be flavored with a variety of extracts, juices, liqueurs, etc. See also caramel; candy.
sugarcane stalks
Hailing from Hawaii, packaged sugarcane stalks are now sold in some specialty produce markets. Also called sugarcane batons and sticks, these stalks have been boiled to make them edible. They should be stored, tightly wrapped, in the refrigerator. Though sweet, sugarcane contains only about one-fifth the amount of sugar found in most candies. It's generally used as a snack or garnish. To use, strip the light brown skin away from the white flesh, then cut into chunks or strips.
sugarplum
A small confection, often consisting of fruit such as a candied cherry or dried apricot surrounded by fondant.
sukiyaki
Known in Japan as the "friendship dish" because it appeals to foreigners, sukiyaki consists of stir-fried bite-sized pieces of meat, vegetables and sometimes noodles and tofu. It's flavored with soy sauce, dashi (or other broth) and mirin and is usually prepared at the table. Before eating each bite, diners dip their cooked food into beaten raw egg.
sulfites
The salts of sulfurous acid, which may be used in food processing for any of various reasons, including the deterrence of insects and diseases, inhibiting bacterial growth and preventing spoilage or oxidation. Sulfites, which may be added as a preservative to packaged and processed foods, can cause severe allergic reactions (such as hives, shortness of breath and even anaphylactic shock) in certain individuals. For that reason, in 1986 the Food and Drug Administration prohibited their use on "fresh fruits and vegetables intended to be sold or served raw to consumers." In the United States, the words "Contains Sulfites" (or similar verbiage) are mandatory on labels of foods that include sulfites.
sultana
Originating in Smyrna, Turkey, this small, pale golden-green grape was once used to make wine. Today, however, it's cultivated primarily for raisins. Its offspring in the United States is known as the Thompson seedless grape. See also raisin.
sumac; sumaq
The brick- to dark purple-red berries of a decorative bush that grows wild throughout the Middle East and in parts of Italy. Sumac, which is sold ground or in its dried-berry form, has a pleasantly fruity, astringent taste that complements everything from fish to meat to vegetables. Sumac can be found in Middle Eastern markets. See also spices.
summer pudding
This classic English dessert consists of sweetened fresh berries and often red currants that are briefly cooked, then cooled before being placed in a bread-lined casserole dish. The fruit is topped with additional slices of bread, covered with a plate and weighted overnight in the refrigerator. The cold dessert is unmolded and served with whipped cream.
summer sausage
Any dried or smoked sausage that can be kept without benefit of refrigeration. See also sausage.
sundae
One to three scoops of ice cream, topped with one or more sweet sauces and various other ingredients including fruit, nuts and whipped cream. The sundae is said to have originated in the late 19th century because moralists decried the consumption of carbonated soda on Sunday... even in the popular weekend treat, ice-cream sodas. The noncorruptive "dry" version of that treat was ice cream topped with syrup and named after the day on which soda was banned. The spelling of this frozen confection was changed to "sundae" so as not to be sacrilegious.
sunfish
Any of a large variety of North American freshwater fish noted for their interesting shapes and bright colors. Members of this family include largemouth, smallmouth, redeye, rock and spotted bass, and both the white and black crappie. See also fish.
sunflower seeds
The showy sunflower, with its bright yellow petals radiating from a dark hub of seeds, can reach up to 12 inches in diameter. This tall, rangy plant is thought to be so named because its flowers resemble the sun, and because they twist on their stems to follow the sun throughout the day. Sunflowers were cultivated by the Indians of the Americas long before Europeans discovered them. Today, the Russians are one of the largest sunflower seed producers in the world. Though it's the state flower of Kansas, the largest United States sunflower producers are California, Minnesota and North Dakota. The seeds have a hard black-and-white striped shell that must be removed. Sunflower seeds can be dried or roasted (either in or out of the shell), and are sold either plain or salted. They can be eaten as a snack, used in salads or sandwiches or added to a variety of cooked dishes or baked goods. The iron-rich sunflower seeds are, by weight, 47 percent fat and 24 percent protein. The pale yellow, delicately-flavored sunflower-seed oil extracted from the seeds is very high in polyunsaturated fat and low in saturated fat. Though it has a relatively low smoke point, sunflower-seed oil is used in cooking as well as for salad dressings. See also fats and oils.
sunomono
The Japanese word for "vinegared things," with a meaning similar to a salad. Sunomono ingredients may be raw or cooked and include items like broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, cucumber, daikon, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, pea pods, spinach, string beans, seaweed and sometimes fish, meat or poultry. The saladlike ingredients are coated with vinegar that's usually sweetened with sugar and flavored with various seasonings.
supreme sauce
An extraordinarily rich mélange made by combining equal parts velouté sauce and chicken or veal stock with mushroom-cooking liquid and heavy cream, and reducing the mixture by two-thirds. The sauce is finished by whisking in butter and cream.
sushi
A Japanese specialty based on boiled rice flavored with a sweetened rice vinegar, a mixture called sushi meshi. Once cooled, the rice has a glossy sheen and separates easily. There is a wide variety of sushi including nigiri sushi (thin slices of raw fish seasoned with wasabi and wrapped around or layered with this rice), hosomaki (thin sushi rolls) and futomaki (thick sushi rolls). To make these rolls, various chopped vegetables, raw fish, pickles, tofu, etc. are enclosed in sushi rice and wrapped in thin sheets of nori (seaweed). The rolls are then cut into slices. Sushi are designed to be finger food and can be served as appetizers, snacks or a full meal. Soy sauce is often served with sushi for dipping. See also sashimi.
sushi meshi
The rice used in sushi dishes, made by tossing freshly cooked rice with a dressing made of vinegar, sugar and salt (Asian markets carry a packaged mix of this dressing). The rice-dressing mixture is fanned during tossing to help cool the rice quickly. Sushi meshi is also called shari.
sweat, to
A technique by which ingredients, particularly vegetables, are cooked in a small amount of fat over low heat. The ingredients are covered directly with a piece of foil or parchment paper, then the pot is tightly covered. With this method, the ingredients soften without browning, and cook in their own juices.
Swedish meat balls
A blend of ground meat (often a combination of beef and veal), sautéed onions, soaked bread crumbs, beaten egg and seasonings. This mixture is formed into small (1/2-inch) balls before being sautéed until brown. Swedish meatballs are served in a pale brown cream sauce made by combining the pan drippings with cream or milk. They're a popular buffet item or hot appetizer and are seen on most Swedish smorgasbords.
sweet peppers
In the United States, the term "sweet pepper" encompasses a wide variety of mild peppers that, like the chile, belong to the Capsicum family. Both sweet and hot peppers are native to tropical areas of the Western Hemisphere and were brought back by Christopher Columbus to his homeland where they quickly found their way into Spanish cuisine. Sweet peppers can range in color from pale to dark green, from yellow to orange to red, and from purple to brown to black. Their color can be solid or variegated. Their usually juicy flesh can be thick or thin and the flavors can range from bland to sweet to bittersweet. The best known sweet peppers are the bell peppers, so-named for their rather bell-like shape. They have a mild, sweet flavor and crisp, exceedingly juicy flesh. When young, the majority of bell peppers are a rich, bright green, but there are also yellow, orange, purple, red and brown bell peppers. The red bells are simply vine-ripened green bell peppers that, because they've ripened longer, are very sweet. Bell peppers vary from 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 inches long and from 2 1/2 to 4 inches wide. Green bell peppers are available all year long, while the red, orange, yellow, purple and brown varieties are found sporadically throughout the year. With their tops cut off and seeds removed, bell peppers are excellent for stuffing with a variety of fillings. The large, red, heart-shaped pimiento is another popular sweet pepper. Fresh pimientos are available in some specialty produce markets from late summer to fall. Canned or bottled pimientos are marketed year-round in halves, strips and small pieces. Pimientos are the familiar red stuffing found in green olives. Other sweet pepper varieties include the thin, curved, green bull's horn; the long, tapered Cubanelle, which can range in color from yellow to red; and the sweet banana pepper, which is long, yellow and banana-shaped. Most sweet peppers are available year-round with a peak from July through September. Choose peppers that are firm, have a richly colored, shiny skin and that are heavy for their size. Avoid those that are limp, shriveled or that have soft or bruised spots. Store peppers in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to a week. Sweet peppers are used raw in salads and as part of a vegetable platter served with various dips. In cooking, they find their way into a variety of dishes and can be sautéed, baked, grilled, braised and steamed. Sweet peppers are an excellent source of vitamin C and contain fair amounts of vitamin A and small amounts of calcium, phosphorus, iron, thiamine, riboflavin and niacin.
sweet potato
This large edible root belongs to the morning-glory family and is native to tropical areas of the Americas. There are many varieties of sweet potato but the two that are widely grown commercially are a pale sweet potato and the darker-skinned variety Americans erroneously call "yam" (the true yam is not related to the sweet potato). The pale sweet potato has a thin, light yellow skin and a pale yellow flesh. Its flavor is not sweet and after being cooked, the pale sweet potato is dry and crumbly, much like a white baking potato. The darker variety has a thicker, dark orange skin and a vivid orange, sweet flesh that cooks to a much moister texture. Fresh sweet potatoes are available sporadically throughout the year, though not as readily during the summer months. Canned and frozen sweet potatoes are available year-round and are sometimes labeled as yams. When buying fresh sweet potatoes choose those that are small- to medium-sized with smooth, unbruised skins. Sweet potatoes don't store well unless the environment is just right, which is dry, dark and around 55°F. Under perfect conditions they can be stored for 3 to 4 weeks. Otherwise, store in a cool, dark place and use within a week of purchase. Do not refrigerate. Sweet potatoes particularly the pale variety can be substituted for regular potatoes in most recipes. They can be prepared in a variety of ways including baking, boiling and sautéing. Sweet-potato chips can now be found on some restaurant menus. Sweet potatoes are high in vitamins A and C. See also potato.
sweet-and-sour
This term is used to describe dishes that have a flavor balanced between sweet and pungent, usually accomplished by combining sugar and vinegar. The flavor is often incorporated into a sauce or dressing that can be served with meat, fish or vegetables. The Chinese are famous for their sweet-and-sour specialties and the Germans are noted for their delicious sweet-and-sour cabbage dishes.
Sweetbread
The edible thymus or pancreas of a calf, lamb or pig.
sweetbreads
Prized by gourmets throughout the world, sweetbreads are the thymus glands of veal, young beef and lamb. There are two glands an elongated lobe in the throat and a larger, rounder gland near the heart. These glands are connected by a tube, which is often removed before sweetbreads are marketed. The heart sweetbread is considered the more delectable (and is therefore more expensive) of the two because of its delicate flavor and firmer, creamy-smooth texture. Sweetbreads from milk-fed veal or young calves are considered the best. Those from young lamb are quite good, but beef sweetbreads are tougher. Veal, young calf and beef sweetbreads are available year-round in specialty meat markets, whereas those from lamb must usually be special-ordered. Choose sweetbreads that are white (they become redder as the animal ages), plump and firm. They're very perishable and should be prepared within 24 hours of purchase. Before being cooked, sweetbreads must be soaked in several changes of acidulated water and their outer membrane removed. Some recipes call for the glands to be blanched to firm them, and refrigerated until ready for use. Sweetbreads can be prepared in a variety of ways including poaching, sautéing and braising. They are also sometimes used in pâtés and souffléS.
sweetened condensed milk
A mixture of whole milk and sugar, 40 to 45 percent of which is sugar. This mixture is heated until about 60 percent of the water evaporates. The resulting condensed mixture is extremely sticky and sweet. Unsweetened condensed milk is referred to as evaporated milk. Store unopened sweetened condensed milk at room temperature for up to 6 months. Once opened, transfer the unused milk to an airtight container, refrigerate and use within 5 days. Sweetened condensed milk is used in baked goods and desserts such as candies, puddings, pies, etc.
sweetmeat
A small piece of something sweet such as a petit four, candied fruit, nut or candy.
sweetsop
Also called sugar apple, the sweetsop is the egg-shaped fruit of a small tropical-American tree. It has a thick, coarse yellow-green (sometimes purple-tinged) skin and yellow flesh with dark seeds. The very sweet, custardlike flesh is divided into segments like a citrus fruit. The sweetsop is often mistaken for the cherimoya (or custard apple), to which it is related. It's grown in Florida and California and is usually available from midsummer to midwinter only in the locales where it's grown. After the skin and seeds are removed, sweetsops are usually eaten raw. They're often used in desserts.
Swiss cheese
A generic term for cheeses that have a pale yellow, slightly nutty-flavored flesh with large holes. American Swiss cheeses were patterned after Switzerland's world-famous emmentaler and gruyère cheeses. These Swiss-style cheeses are good for sandwiches and salads and have excellent melting properties. See also cheese.
Swiss steak
Called smothered steak in England, this dish begins with a thick cut of beef usually round or chuck that has been tenderized by pounding, coated with flour and browned on both sides. The meat is then smothered with chopped tomatoes, onions, carrots, celery, beef broth and various seasonings before being covered and braised, baked or simmered for about 2 hours.
swordfish
This large food and sport fish is found in temperate waters throughout the world. Swordfish average between 200 to 600 pounds, though some specimens caught weigh over 1,000 pounds. They have a distinctive saillike dorsal fin and a striking swordlike projection extending from the upper jaw. Their mild-flavored, moderately fat flesh is firm, dense and meatlike, making swordfish one of the most popular fish in the United States. Fresh swordfish is available from late spring to early fall, whereas it's available frozen year-round. Both forms are sold in steaks and chunks. Because it's so firm, swordfish can be prepared in almost any manner including sautéing, grilling, broiling, baking and poaching. See also fish.
syllabub
This thick, frothy drink or dessert originated in old England. It's traditionally made by beating milk with wine or ale, sugar, spices and sometimes beaten egg whites. A richer version made with cream can be used as a topping for cakes, cookies, fruit, etc. It's thought that the name of this concoction originated during Elizabethan times and is a combination of the words Sille (a French wine that was used in the mixture) and bub (Old-English slang for "bubbling drink").
Sylvaner; Silvaner
Long popular in Germany and surrounding areas of Europe, this white wine grape is now being grown in other parts of the world such as the United States and Chile. Though the wine produced from Sylvaner grapes is light and pleasant, it's not as flavorful or fruity as Germany's Johannisberg riesling.
Syrah
A high-quality red wine grape that gained its reputation in France's Rhône region. In the northern Rhöne, Syrah is the principal grape of the esteemed wines from Cornas, Côte-Rôtie, Crozes-Hermitage, Hermitage and Saint-Joseph. In the southern Rhöne, Syrah is used to contribute flavor and structure to the multi-variety wines from Châteauneuf-du-pape and côtes-du-rhône. When young, Syrah wines are deep-colored and tannic (see tannin), with spicy and peppery qualities. Mature Syrahs show characteristics of sweet blackberries, blackcurrants and plums. In Australia Syrah is called Shiraz and is that country's most widely planted red grape. In California, the petite sirah grape was long thought to be Syrah, but enologists (see enology) now believe the two varieties are unrelated.
syrniki; sirniki
Russian in origin, syrniki is a dish of fried cheese cakes that can be served sweet sprinkled with confectioners' sugar and sour cream or savory, topped with sour cream and herbs such as dill. Syrniki are made with a mixture of pot cheese or farmer'S cheese, flour and beaten eggs, which is formed into cakes before being sautéed on both sides until brown.
Szechuan pepper; Szechwan
Native to the Szechuan province of China, this mildly hot spice comes from the prickly ash tree. Though not related to the peppercorn family, Szechuan berries resemble black peppercorns but contain a tiny seed. Szechuan pepper has a distinctive flavor and fragrance. It can be found in Asian markets and specialty stores in whole or powdered form. Whole berries are often heated before being ground to bring out their tantalizing flavor and aroma. Szechuan pepper is also known as anise pepper, Chinese pepper, fagara, flower pepper, sansho and Sichuan pepper.
Tía Maria
Based on rum, this dark brown Jamaican liqueur has a strong coffee flavor.
T-bone steak
Cut from the center of the short loin, this steak has a T-shaped bone that separates the small tenderloin section from the larger top loin. The porterhouse steak differs from the T-bone in that it contains a larger portion of the tenderloin. See also beef.
Tabasco pepper; Tabasco Sauce
A very hot, small red pepper originally from the Mexican state of Tabasco. The word itself means "damp earth." Though these peppers are now grown in parts of Louisiana, they're not widely commercially available. Instead, they're used specifically to make Tabasco Sauce, a trademarked name held by the McIlhenny family since the mid-1800s. Produced since Civil War times, this fiery sauce is made from tabasco peppers, vinegar and salt. The peppers are fermented in barrels for 3 years before being processed into the sauce. Tabasco Sauce adds zest to numerous dishes as well as being integral to the famous bloody mary cocktail.
tabbouleh
A Middle Eastern dish of bulghur wheat mixed with chopped tomatoes, onions, parsley, mint, olive oil and lemon juice. It's served cold, often with a crisp bread such as lavosh.
table d'hôte
This French term literally means "the table of the host." On restaurant menus, however, table d'hôte refers to a complete meal of several courses for the price of the entrée. See also à la carte; prix fixe.
taco
A Mexican-style "sandwich" consisting of a folded corn tortilla filled with various ingredients such as beef, chicken, chorizo sausage, tomatoes, lettuce, onion, guacamole, refried beans and salsa. Most tacos in the United States are made with crisp (fried) tortilla shells, but there are also "soft" (pliable) versions. The latter are more likely to be found in the Southwest and California. Tacos may be eaten as an entrée or snack.
taffy
Soft and chewy, taffy is a candy made with sugar, butter and various flavorings. Its delectable, supple consistency is achieved by twisting and pulling the candy as it cools into long, pliable strands, which are then usually cut into bite-size chunks. The famous saltwater taffy, made popular in the late 1800s in Atlantic City, was so named because it used a small amount of salt water in the mixture. Today's saltwater taffy doesn't necessarily follow tradition. The British version of taffy, called toffee or toffy, is harder than America's version.
tagine; tajine
Any of various Moroccan stews featuring meat or poultry gently simmered with vegetables, olives, preserved lemons, garlic and spices like cumin, ginger, pepper, saffron and turmeric. Tagines are often served with couscous.
tagliarini
Long, paper-thin ribbon noodles, usually less than 1/8 inch wide. See also pasta.
Tagliatelle
What they call fettuccine born in northern Italy.
tagliolini
Another name for tagliarini.
tahini
Used in Middle Eastern cooking, tahini is a thick paste made of ground sesame seed. It's used to flavor various dishes such as hummus and baba ghanoush.
Taleggio cheese
Hailing from Italy's Lombardy region, this rich (48 percent fat), semisoft cheese is made from whole cow's milk. Its flavor can range from mild to pungent, depending on its age. When young, Taleggio's color is pale yellow and its texture semisoft. As it ages it darkens to deep yellow and becomes rather runny. Taleggio is sold in flat blocks or cylinders and is covered either with a wax coating or a thin mold. It's excellent with salad greens or served with fruit for dessert. See also cheese.
Tamale
An envelope of masa with a savory or sweet filling, wrapped in a corn husk and steamed.
tamale pie
A dish made with the ingredients of a regular tamale (cornmeal batter, ground meat, cheese and seasonings), except the ingredients are layered and baked in a dish instead of wrapped in a corn husk.
tamari
Similar to but thicker than soy sauce, tamari is also a dark sauce made from soybeans. It has a distinctively mellow flavor and is used primarily as a table condiment, as a dipping sauce or for basting.
tamarillo
Native to South America, this egg-shaped fruit is also known as a tree tomato. Although not yet widely accepted in the United States, the tamarillo is very popular in South and Central America, the Caribbean, and parts of Asia, New Zealand (from where most of the fruit in the United States is imported) and Australia. The tamarillo has a tough, bitter skin that can be various glossy shades of red, purple, amber or yellow. The tart but very flavorful golden pink flesh is purple-tinged around the seeds. Tamarillos are available from May through October in specialty produce stores and some supermarkets. Choose firm, blemish-free fruit that's heavy for its size. When ripe, tamarillos should be fragrant and should yield slightly to palm pressure. They can be ripened at room temperature. Once ripe, they should be refrigerated, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, up to 10 days. Tamarillos can be eaten fresh or cooked, and are used for both sweet and savory dishes. One requisite, however, is sugar, which reduces the fruit's natural tartness and enhances its flavor. Tamarillos are a good source of vitamins A and C.
Tamarind
A bittersweet spice made by drying and pressing the pulp from the fruit of the tamarind tree native to Asia and northern Africa.
tamis
Also called tammycloth, a tamis is a worsted-cloth strainer used to strain liquid mixtures such as sauces.
tandoor oven; tandoori
Used throughout India (and found in Indian restaurants throughout the world), the traditional rounded-top tandoor oven is made of brick and clay. It's used to bake foods over direct heat produced from a smoky fire. The dough for the delicious Indian bread naan is slapped directly onto the oven's clay walls and left to bake until puffy and lightly browned. Meats cooked in the tall, rather cylindrical tandoor are usually skewered and thrust into the oven's heat, which is so intense (usually over 500°F) that it cooks a chicken half in less than 5 minutes. Chicken and other meats cooked with this method are identified as tandoori chicken, etc.
tandoori coloring; tandoori paste
Available in Indian markets, this coloring is used to give foods the traditional red-orange tint of tandoor oven cooking. Tandoori paste can be rubbed directly onto the surface of meats; the powder is generally stirred into a marinade.
tangelo
A juicy, sweetly tart citrus fruit with few seeds that takes its name from the fact that it's a cross between the tangerine and the pomelo. There are many hybrids of this loose-skinned fruit, ranging in size from that of a tiny orange to that of a small grapefruit. The skins, which can be rough to smooth, range in color from yellow-orange to deep orange. The most common variety of tangelo available in the United States is the Minneola, which is easily recognized by its nipple-shaped stem end. Tangelos are in season from November through March. See also orange..
tannin
An astringent substance found in the seeds and stems of grapes, the bark of some trees and in tea. Tannin is important in the making of good red wines, aiding them in long and graceful aging. When such wines are young, the tannin often gives them a noticeable astringency a quality that diminishes as the wine ages, mellows and develops character.
Tapas
Appetizers in Spain; trendy nibbles in the U.S.A.
Tapenade
Thick paste - made from olives, anchovies, capers, lemon juice, olive oil and seasonings - that can be a condiment or a spread.
tapioca; tapioca flour
A starchy substance extracted from the root of the cassava plant. It's available in several forms including granules, flakes, pellets (called pearl tapioca ) and flour or starch. The most widely available forms are tapioca flour (also called cassava flour ) and pearl tapioca. The flour is used as a thickening agent for soups, fruit fillings, glazes, etc., much like cornstarch. Pearl tapioca is used mainly to make pudding and comes in several sizes, regular or instant forms and in a variety of prepackaged flavors. Pearl tapioca is available in most supermarkets, whereas the other forms are more commonly found in health-food stores and Asian markets. If stored in a cool, dark place, all types of tapioca will keep indefinitely.
taramasalata
This Greek specialty is a thick, creamy mixture made with tarama (pale orange carp roe), lemon juice, milk-soaked bread crumbs, olive oil and seasonings. Taramasalata is usually served with bread or crackers as an hors D'oeuvre. It may also be used as a dip for crudités.
taro root
A starchy, potatolike tuber with a brown, fibrous skin and gray-white (sometimes purple-tinged) flesh. Taro is grown in tropical areas and is an important starchy food in West Africa, the Caribbean and Polynesian islands. A variety of taro grown in the southern United States since the early 1900s is called dasheen. Taro roots range in length from about 5 inches to a foot or more, and can be several inches wide. Though acrid-tasting in its raw state, the root has a somewhat nutlike flavor when cooked. It's also extremely easy to digest. It should be noted, however, that some varieties are highly toxic unless thoroughly cooked. The taro root has large edible leaves (called callaloo in the Caribbean) which can be prepared and eaten like mustard or turnip greens. Taro root can be found in ethnic markets and some specialty produce stores. Choose roots that are firm and smooth and refrigerate up to 4 days. Much like the potato, the taro root may be prepared in a variety of ways including boiling, frying and baking. In Hawaii, it's used to make the famous (or infamous) poi.
tarragon
Narrow, pointed, dark green leaves distinguish this perennial aromatic herb known for its distinctive aniselike flavor. Tarragon is widely used in classic French cooking for a variety of dishes including chicken, fish and vegetables, as well as many sauces, the best known being Béarnaise. It's also an integral ingredient in various herbal combinations such as fines herbes. Tarragon is available fresh in the summer and early fall and year-round in dried and powdered forms. Care should be taken when using tarragon since its assertiveness can easily dominate other flavors. Tarragon vinegar is a popular item in gourmet markets. See also herbs; herb and spice chart; A field guide to herbs.
tart
n. Very simply, a tart is a pastry crust with shallow sides, a filling and no top crust. The filling can be sweet (such as fruit or sweet custard) or savory (like meat, cheese or savory custard). Depending on the type of tart, the pastry shell can be baked and then filled, or filled and then baked. Tarts can be bite-sized (often served as hors D'oeuvre), individual-sized (sometimes called tartlets ) or full-sized. They can be used as appetizers, entrées or desserts. See also tarte tatin. tart adj. Sharp, acidic or sour.
tartar sauce; tartare sauce
Based on mayonnaise, tartar sauce is a mixture of minced capers, dill pickles, onions or shallots, olives, lemon juice or vinegar and seasonings. It's traditionally served with fried fish, but can also be used with vegetables.
Tartare
Ground or finely chopped, seasoned raw meat (traditionally beef). May or may not come mounded, and with a raw egg.
Tartarian cherry; black Tartarian cherry
Large and heart-shaped, the Tartarian cherry has a dark purple, almost black, skin and flesh. Inside the thin skin the flesh is sweet, juicy and extremely flavorful. The Tartarian cherry is available from May to September. See also cherry.
tartaric acid
A natural crystalline compound found in plants, especially those with tart characteristics such as tamarind and unripe grapes. The principal acid in wine, tartaric acid is the component that promotes graceful aging and crispness of flavor. One of the by-products of tartaric acid is cream of tartar, which is used in baking and candy-making.
tarte Tatin
A famous French upside-down apple tart made by covering the bottom of a shallow baking dish with butter and sugar, then apples and finally a pastry crust. While baking, the sugar and butter create a delicious caramel that becomes the topping when the tart is inverted onto a serving plate. The tart was created by two French sisters who lived in the Loire Valley and earned their living making it. The French call this dessert tarte des demoiselles Tatin, "the tart of two unmarried women named Tatin."
Tartufo
Italian for truffle.
tastevin
A wine-tasting cup, usually worn on a chain or ribbon around the neck of a sommelier.
Tat soi
Spoon cabbage.
tea
Tea is native to China, where it grew wild until the Chinese determined that the leaves helped flavor the flat taste of the water they boiled to prevent getting sick. Tea plant cultivation in China began about 4,000 years ago but it wasn't until the 8th century a.d. that outsiders (the Japanese) discovered it. Europeans were finally introduced to tea during the 17th century and the British (who were the true tea lovers) spread its use by implementing new growing areas such as India. In fact, the English so enjoy their tea that they developed a meal around it, high tea. Tea also played an important role in the development of the United States its taxation led to the Boston Tea Party, one of the issues that triggered the War of Independence. Americans further influenced tea use both by inventing tea bags and by starting the practice of drinking iced tea at the St. Louis World's Fair in 1904. The word "tea" can refer to the beverage, the leaves used to make the beverage and the magnolia-related evergreen shrub from which the leaves come. All tea plants belong to the same species but varying climates, soils, etc. combine in different ways to create a plethora of distinctive leaves. The processing of those leaves is responsible for the individual characteristics of each tea. Leaves are sorted by size those that are young and tender are superior to older, coarser leaves. Black, green and oolong tea are the main types produced during processing. Black tea comes from leaves that have been fermented before being heated and dried. Such leaves produce a dark reddish-brown brew. Black teas are graded according to the size of the leaf; orange pekoe describes leaves that are smaller than the medium-size coarser pekoe leaves. Although black tea flavors vary, most are more assertive than those of green or oolong teas. Among the more well-known black teas are darjeeling, english breakfast and lapsang souchong. Green tea, favored among Asians, is produced from leaves that are steamed and dried but not fermented. Such leaves produce a greenish-yellow tea and a flavor that's slightly bitter and closer to the taste of the fresh leaf. Two of the more well-known green teas are tencha and gunpowder. Scientific studies have shown that both black and green teas increase the body's antioxidant activity by up to about 45 percent. They are also said to have antibacterial powers against cavities and gum disease. Oolong tea is produced from leaves that are partially fermented, a process that creates teas with a flavor, color and aroma that falls between black tea and green tea. The best known oolong is formosa oolong, from Taiwan. In addition to these three main types of tea there are specialty teas. Such teas are flavored with various floral or spice additions such as jasmine or chrysanthemum blossoms, or orange or lemon peel. Instant tea, which dissolves quickly in cold or hot water, consists of brewed tea that is dehydrated and granulated. It often contains sugar or sugar substitutes and other flavorings such as cinnamon or lemon. Herb tea (see tisane) is not a true tea based on tea-shrub leaves, but rather an infusion of various herbs, flowers and spices. Both black teas (in leaf and tea-bag form) and instant teas are readily available in most supermarkets. Other teas can be found in great variety in health-food stores, Asian markets and stores specializing in tea and coffee. See also assam; camomile; ceylon; earl grey; formosa oolong; high tea; irish breakfast tea; lapsang souchong; matcha; sassafras; tea infuser; tencha.
tea egg
A Chinese specialty prepared by hard-cooking eggs, crushing (but not peeling) the shells, then simmering the eggs in strong tea for about an hour. The tea seeps through the cracked shell, thereby flavoring the egg and giving it a marbleized appearance. Tea eggs are usually served as an appetizer.
tea infuser
A small, perforated, basketlike container with a hinged opening. Loose tea is placed inside the infuser, which is then closed and lowered into a teapot, whereupon boiling water is added (see infusion). The tiny holes in the infuser allow the water to interact with the tea leaves. A tiny chain with a hook at one end is attached to the top of the infuser the hook slips over the rim of the teapot so the infuser can easily be retrieved, thereby straining the tea leaves. There are also single-cup infusers, which are shaped like two perforated teaspoons that fasten together. Tea infusers are usually made of stainless or chromed steel, although there are also porcelain and silver models. See also high tea; tea.
tea melon
Also called sweet cucumber, the yellow-colored tea melon is a tiny (2-inch-long) fruit that's shaped like a cucumber. It has a sweet, mild flavor and a delightfully crisp texture. This mini melon is most often preserved, usually in honey and spices but sometimes in soy sauce. Tea melon is not sold fresh in the United States but can be found in preserved form in Asian markets. Once preserved, it goes by many names including Chinese pickle, preserved sweet melon, sweet tea pickle and pickled cucumber. Tea melon is usually served as a condiment or pickle and is also used to flavor various Asian dishes.
teff
Native to northern Africa, teff is a miniscule (about 1/32 inch in diameter) cereal grain. It's been a staple of Ethiopia for eons and is now being grown in the United States in Idaho. The mildly nutty-flavored teff is high in protein and carbohydrates and a good source of calcium and iron. It can be found in some health-food stores.
Teleme cheese
Available mainly in northern California, Teleme cheese is similar in texture to domestic brie. It contains about 50 percent milk fat and has a pronounced tangy flavor. When young, Teleme's texture is soft and creamy. As it ages, it becomes runnier and stronger in flavor. See also cheese.
tempe; tempeh
A fermented soybean cake, with a texture similar to that of soft tofu and a yeasty, nutty flavor. The high-protein tempe is popular in Asian cooking, as well as for vegetarian diets. It's commonly available at health-food stores.
tempering
A technique by which chocolate is stabilized through a melting-and-cooling process, thereby making it more malleable and glossy. Commerically available chocolate is already tempered, but this condition changes when chocolate is melted. Tempering chocolate isn't necessary for most recipes, but is often done when the chocolate will be used for candymaking or decorations. Chocolate must be tempered because it contains cocoa butter, a fat that may form crystals after chocolate is melted and cooled. If these crystals aren't stabilized through tempering, they can form dull gray streaks called bloom. The classic tempering method is to melt chocolate until it reaches a temperature of 115°F. Two-thirds of the melted chocolate is then spread on a marble slab and worked back and forth with a metal spatula until it becomes thick and reaches a temperature of about 80°F. This thickened chocolate is then transferred back into the remaining one-third melted chocolate and reheated to about 89°F. for semisweet chocolate, about 85°F for milk or white chocolate. The quick tempering method is to melt two-thirds of the chocolate to be tempered to a temperature of 115°F then add the remaining one-third (finely chopped) chocolate to the melted mixture, stirring until the mixture has reached 89°F and is smooth. See also chocolate.
temple orange
This loose-skinned orange is somewhat oval in shape and has a rough, thick, deep orange skin. Thought to be a cross between a tangerine and an orange, the temple has a sweetly tart flesh and a goodly number of seeds. It's in season from December to March. See also orange.
Tempura
Batter-dipped, deep-fried fish, poultry or vegetables.
Tencha tea
Considered one of the finest of the green teas, Tencha hails from Japan and is commonly used for tea ceremonies. See also tea.
tendon
A type of donburi dish consisting of tempura-fried fish and a dashi-based broth served over boiled rice.
tentsuyu
Japanese dipping sauce for tempura, made of dashi, mirin and soy sauce. Tentsuyu is available in bottles or cans in Asian markets.
tequila
A colorless or pale straw-colored liquor made by fermenting and distilling the sweet sap of the agave plant. It originated in Tequila, Mexico, hence the name. Most tequilas imported to the United States range from 80 to 86 proof, although some versions are over 100 proof. Tequila is the base liquor in the popular margarita cocktail.
teriyaki
n. 1. A Japanese dish consisting of food, such as beef or chicken, that has been marinated in a mixture of soy sauce, sake (or sherry), sugar, ginger and seasonings before being grilled, broiled or fried. The sugar in the marinade gives the cooked food a slight glaze. 2. A homemade or commercially prepared sauce made with the above ingredients. teriyaki adj. A phrase describing food cooked in this manner, as in "chicken teriyaki."
Terrine
An earthenware container, or the dish cooked therein.
Tex-Mex
A term given to food (as well as music, etc.) based on the combined cultures of Texas and Mexico. Tex-Mex food encompasses a wide variety of dishes such as burritos, nachos and tacos.
Texmati rice
An aromatic rice that's a cross between American long-grain rice and basmati. It has more flavor and fragrance than its American parent and less than basmati. Texmati comes in both white and brown versions, with the brown having a nuttier nuance than the white. See also rice.
Thai chile
Only about 1 to 1 1/2 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter, this diminutive chile packs a fiery punch that doesn't dissipate with cooking. The thin-fleshed Thai chile ranges in color from green to red when fully ripe. It's a popular addition in many Southeast Asian dishes. See also chile.
Thai coffee
Coffee mixed with sweetened condensed milk. See also coffee.
thimbleberry
Any of several thimble-shaped American raspberries, especially the black raspberry. See also raspberry.
thin
v. To dilute mixtures such as soups, sauces, batters, etc., by adding more liquid.
Thompson seedless grape
The best-selling grape in the United States, the Thompson seedless is medium-sized with a thin, pale green skin. It contains no seeds and has a sweet, rather bland flavor. Its peak season is from June to November. See also grape.
Thousand Island dressing
A mayonnaise-based salad dressing made with chili sauce and finely chopped ingredients such as stuffed green olives, green peppers, pickles, onions and hard-cooked egg. Thousand Island dressing is also sometimes used as a sandwich spread.
thread stage
A test for sugar syrup in which a drop of boiling syrup forms a soft 2-inch thread when immersed in cold water. On a candy thermometer, the thread stage is between 230° and 234°F.
Thuringer sausage
Any of several fresh and smoked sausages named for the former German region of Thuringia. Thuringers include some cervelats and blood sausages. The spice coriander is integral to many of these sausages. See also sausage.
thyme
There are several varieties of this mint-family member, a perennial herb native to southern Europe and the Mediterranean. Garden thyme, the most often used variety, is a bush with gray-green leaves giving off a pungent minty, light-lemon aroma. Subvarieties include the narrow-leafed French thyme and broad-leafed English thyme. The most well-known subvariety of wild thyme a thick ground cover is lemon thyme, an herb with a more pronounced lemon aroma than garden thyme. Whatever the variety, thyme is widely used in cooking to add flavor to vegetables, meat, poultry and fish dishes, soups and cream sauces. It's a basic herb of French cuisine and integral to bouquet garni. Fresh thyme is available in some specialty produce shops and supermarkets during the summer months. Dried thyme both leaf and powder form is available year-round. As with all herbs, thyme should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. See also herbs; herb and spice chart; A field guide to herbs.
ti leaves
The leaves of a member of the agave family, used in Polynesia to wrap foods to be cooked. The leaves are removed before the food is eaten. Dried ti leaves, which can be found in some ethnic markets, must be soaked to soften before using. A Hawaiian liquor called okolehao is made from a mash of the ti plant.
tian
A French word describing a shallow, earthenware casserole, as well as the food that it contains. A tian can be any of various dishes, but originally referred to a Provençal dish of gratinéed mixed vegetables.
tiger lily buds
Also called golden needles and simply lily buds, the dried golden buds of the tiger lily are 2 to 3 inches long and have a delicate, musky-sweet flavor. They're used both as vegetable and garnish in various stir-fried dishes. The delicate tiger lily buds are available in 4- to 8-ounce cellophane bags in Asian markets. They must be soaked in water prior to using.
tilapia
An important food fish in Africa for eons, tilapia are aquacultured around the world from Asia, to South America, to the United States and Canada. The lowfat flesh of the tilapia is white (sometimes tinged with pink), sweet and fine-textured. It's suitable for baking, broiling, grilling and steaming. The tilapia is also called St. Peter's fish and, in Hawaii, Hawaiian sun fish. See also fish.
tilefish
This Atlantic-based fish is multicolored and dotted with distinctive yellow spots. Its lowfat flesh is very firm yet tender. The tilefish ranges from 2 to over 50 pounds. Atlantic tilefish is available fresh and frozen in whole (smaller ones), steak and fillet forms. It's suitable for almost any method of cooking. See also fish.
Tillamook cheese
A yellow cheddar produced in and around the area of Tillamook, Oregon. It is made from raw milk and ranges from mild to sharp in flavor. Aged Tillamook cheese is highly prized but seldom seen anywhere but the West Coast. See also cheese.
Tilsit cheese
A cheese said to have orginated in Tilsit, East Prussia (now part of Russia and Poland), when Dutch immigrants accidentally created it while attempting to make gouda. Tilsit has a medium-firm texture with irregular eyes or cracks. Commercially produced Tilsit is made from pasteurized milk, ranges from 30 to 50 percent milk fat and has a pale yellow interior surrounded by a dark yellow rind. Its flavor is mild but becomes more pungent with age. A very strong version, called Farmhouse Tilsit, is made from raw milk and is aged for about 5 months, which creates a cheese approaching limburger in aroma. Tilsit is used to flavor foods such as sauces and vegetable dishes. See also cheese.
Timbale
A savory pie traditionally made of meats or vegetables and cooked in a drum-shaped mold called a timbale.
tips
An acronym for "to insure prompt service," tips are gratuities given to someone (such as a server, bellhop, etc.) for performing a service.
tipsy parson; tipsy pudding
Similar to trifle, this old-fashioned English dessert consists of several layers of sponge cake soaked with wine or brandy, sprinkled with almonds and layered with whipped cream or custard. It was thought that too much of this would make one tipsy.
tiramisu
The translation for tiramisu is "carry me up," and many who taste this ethereal dessert assume the unspoken continuation must surely be "to heaven." Tiramisu is a light composition of sponge cake or ladyfingers dipped in a coffee-marsala mixture, then layered with mascarpone (an ultrarich Italian cream cheese) and grated chocolate. The dessert is refrigerated for several hours before serving to allow the flavors to intermingle. Although tiramisu is sometimes referred to as an Italian trifle, its texture is much lighter than that dessert.
tisane
Commonly called herb tea, a tisane is a tealike drink made by steeping any of various herbs, flowers, spices, etc. in boiling water. Such brews have long been used for their calming and rejuvenating qualities. Some of the herbs more commonly used for tisane blends are balm, chamomile, hyssop, mint and tansy. Tisanes can be found in health-food stores, often under the label "herb tea."
toad-in-the-hole
This comically named British dish consists of a yorkshire pudding batter to which small cooked link sausages are added. The dish is baked until the batter puffs up around the sausages (making them the "toads in the hole") and becomes golden brown. It's most often served for lunch or dinner.
Tobikko
Flying fish roe.
toddy
An alcoholic drink usually hot made with whiskey, rum or brandy, very hot water, sugar, spices and lemon. This drink seems to have evolved from tari, the Hindu word used for the sap or juice of a palm tree. In Asia, this sap was often fermented to create an alcoholic beverage. British sailors picked up on the idea, which eventually evolved into the toddy.
toffee; toffy
A hard but chewy candy made by cooking sugar, water (or cream) and usually butter. Depending on the recipe, a toffee mixture may be cooked to anywhere from 260° to 310°F on a candy thermometer. Other ingredients such as nuts or chocolate are sometimes added.
tofu
Also known as soybean curd and bean curd, custardlike white tofu is made from curdled soy milk, an iron-rich liquid extracted from ground, cooked soybeans. The resulting curds are drained and pressed in a fashion similar to cheesemaking. The firmness of the resulting tofu cake depends on how much whey has been pressed out. Tofu is popular throughout the Orient, particularly in Japan. It has a bland, slightly nutty flavor that gives it a chameleonlike capability to take on the flavor of the food with which it's cooked. Tofu's texture is smooth and creamy yet it's firm enough to slice. It's available in health-food stores, Asian markets and many supermarkets. The cakes are sold in a variety of forms including packaged in water, vacuum-packed and in bulk (usually in large crocks or jars of water). Tofu, which is sometimes fortified with calcium, is very perishable and should be refrigerated for no more than a week. If it's packaged in water, drain it and cover with fresh water. All tofu should be stored covered with water, which should be changed daily. Tofu can be frozen up to 3 months. Freezing will change its texture, making it slightly chewier. The versatile tofu can be sliced, diced or mashed and used in a variety of dishes including soups, stir-fries, casseroles, salads, sandwiches, salad dressings and sauces. It's easy to digest, low in calories, calcium and sodium, high in protein and cholesterol-free all of which makes it one of today's most healthful foods.
Togarashi
alt spellings: IchimiSmall, red Japanese chile.
Tokay grape; Tokay wine
1. A large, oval California table grape (also called Flame Tokay ) with a thick red skin and bland-tasting flesh with seeds. Tokays are available from August through December. They're also sometimes used to make wine of the same name. 2. Tokay is also a sweet white wine from Hungary's Tokay region, which is made primarily from the Furmint grape. botrytis cinerea-infected grapes from the better vintages produce marvelous dessert wines that rival the best from France and Germany.
Toll House cookie
This the original chocolate-chip cookie was created in the 1930s by Ruth Wakefield, who ran the Toll House Restaurant outside of Whitman, Massachusetts. Mrs. Wakefield, in a moment of brilliant inspiration, cut up bars of chocolate to add to a basic butter-cookie dough. History was made. Today, the chocolate-chip cookie is the most popular in the United States.
Tom and Jerry
Favored by skiers and cold-weather captives, the Tom and Jerry is a hot drink made with beaten eggs, hot milk or water, liquor (such as brandy, bourbon or rum), sugar and spices. It's served in a large mug and usually sprinkled with grated nutmeg. The drink takes its name from the principal characters in the early 19th-century novel, Life in London.
Tomatillo
A diminutive green relative of the tomato.
tomato
Like the potato and eggplant, the tomato is a member of the nightshade family. It's the fruit of a vine native to South America. By the time European explorers arrived in the New World, the tomato had made its way up into Central America and Mexico. The Spanish carried plants back home from Mexico, but it took some time for tomatoes to be accepted in Spain because it was thought that — like various other members of the nightshade family — they were poisonous. Some tomato advocates, however, claimed the fruit had aphrodisiac powers and, in fact, the French called them pommes d'amour, "love apples."
It wasn't until the 1900s that the tomato gained some measure of popularity in the United States. Today this fruit is one of America's favorite "vegetables," a classification the government gave the tomato for trade purposes in 1893. Dozens of tomato varieties are available today — ranging widely in size, shape and color. Among the most commonly marketed is the beefsteak tomato, which is delicious both raw and cooked. It's large, bright red and slightly elliptical in shape. Globe tomatoes are medium-sized, firm and juicy. Like the beefsteak, they're good both raw and cooked. Another variety is the plum tomato (also called Italian plum ), a flavorful egg-shaped tomato that comes in red and yellow versions. The medium-sized green tomato has a piquant flavor, which makes it excellent for frying, broiling and adding to relishes. The small cherry tomato is about 1 inch in diameter and can be red or yellow-gold in color. It's very popular — both for eating and as a garnish — because of its bright color and excellent flavor. The yellow cherry tomato is slightly less acidic than the red and therefore somewhat blander in flavor. Though it's long been popular raw in salads, the cherry tomato is gaining favor as a cooked side dish, quickly sautéed with herbs. The yellow pear tomato is slightly smaller than the cherry tomato and resembles a tiny pear. It's used in the same manner as the cherry tomato. Currant tomatoes are the tiniest of the species, measuring only about 0.7 inches in diameter and weighing about 1/8 ounce. They come in both red and yellow varieties and have a sweet, crisp flesh.
Finding a niche in some produce markets are several unique looking and flavorful heirloom tomato varieties. Among the more interesting are the purple tomatoes (such as Pruden's Purple, Brandywine and Cherokee Purple ), the skins of which can range in color from a dusky pink with purple shoulders to a vivid dark pink. Depending on the variety, the flesh color can vary from crimson to a brownish purple-pink. Striped tomatoes (such as striped German ) have an orangey skin with faint red striations. This fruit's bicolor flesh is a brilliant yellow with a red center. Fresh tomatoes are available year-round, with the peak season from June through September. The most succulent, flavorful tomatoes are those that are "vine-ripened," usually only available in specialty produce markets. Unfortunately, such tomatoes are very perishable, which is why supermarkets almost always carry tomatoes that have been picked green and ripened with ethylene gas or in special warming rooms. Such tomatoes will never have the texture, aroma and taste of the vine-ripened fruit. Choose firm, well-shaped tomatoes that are noticeably fragrant and richly colored (for their variety). They should be free from blemishes, heavy for their size and give slightly to palm pressure. Ripe tomatoes should be stored at room temperature and used within a few days. They should never be refrigerated — cold temperatures make the flesh pulpy and kills the flavor. Unripe fruit can be ripened by placing it in a pierced paper bag with an apple for several days at room temperature (65° to 75°F). Do not refrigerate or set in the sun. Tomato skins can be removed by blanching.
Sun-dried tomatoes are, as the name indicates, dried in the sun (or by other, artificial methods). The result is a chewy, intensely flavored, sweet, dark red tomato. Sun-dried tomatoes are usually either packed in oil or dry-packed in cellophane. The dry-pack type benefits from soaking in oil or other liquid before use. Sun-dried tomatoes add their rich flavor to sauces, soups, sandwiches, salads and myriad other dishes. Canned tomatoes are available in various forms including peeled, whole, crushed, and those with herbs such as oregano and/or basil added. Tomato paste, which is available in cans and tubes, consists of tomatoes that have been cooked for several hours, strained and reduced to a deep red, richly flavored concentrate. Canned tomato puree consists of tomatoes that have been cooked briefly and strained, resulting in a thick liquid. Tomato sauce is a slightly thinner tomato puree, often with seasonings and other flavorings added so that it is ready to use in various dishes or as a base for other sauces. Tomatoes are rich in vitamin C and contain appreciable amounts of vitamins A and B, potassium, iron and phosphorus. A medium tomato has about as much fiber as a slice of whole-wheat bread and only about 35 calories. See also tomatillo.
tombo
The Hawaiian name for albacore tuna.
tongue
Tongues of beef, veal, and lamb are nutritious and appetizing variety meats. They can be found fresh, pickled, smoked and corned and can be prepared in a variety of ways to be served hot or cold. All tongue is tough and requires long, slow cooking to make it tender. Beef tongues weigh from 2 to 5 pounds, veal tongues from 1/2 to 2 pounds, and lamb tongues around 1/4 pound. Fresh tongue should be refrigerated for no more than a day before cooking. It must be scrubbed thoroughly before using.
tongue sausage
Available in large or small links, tongue sausage is made from tongue and various other meats. It often contains pistachio nuts. See also sausage.
tonic water
Also called quinine water, tonic is water charged with carbon dioxide and flavored with fruit extracts, sugar and usually a tiny amount of quinine (a bitter alkaloid). It's especially popular as a mixer, such as with gin to create the gin and tonic cocktail.
tonnato
From the Italian tonno ("tuna"), the word tonnato refers culinarily to dishes that are somehow prepared with or accompanied by tuna. The most well known preparation is vitello tonnato, which consists of cold, sliced, roasted veal accompanied with a sauce of pureed tuna, anchovy filets, capers, lemon juice and olive oil.
Torchon
alt spellings: TourchonMethod of cooking foie gras by which it is placed in a towel (torchon in French) and poached.
torta
1. The Italian word for "tart," "pie" or "cake." 2. The Spanish word for "cake," "loaf" or "sandwich."
torte
A rich cake, often made with little or no flour but instead with ground nuts or bread crumbs, eggs, sugar and flavorings. Tortes are often multilayered and filled with buttercream, jams, etc.
tortellini; tortelloni
Small pasta stuffed with various fillings, folded over and shaped into a ring or hat shape. Tortelloni are a larger version.
tortilla
1. Mexico's everyday bread, the unleavened tortilla is round and flat it resembles a very thin pancake. The hand-shaped tortilla can be made from corn flour (masa) or wheat flour, but is always baked on a griddle (comal). It can be eaten plain or wrapped around various fillings. Tortillas are the base for burritos, tacos and a multitude of other dishes. Both corn and flour tortillas are sold prepackaged in the refrigerator section of most supermarkets. 2. In Spain, the word tortilla refers to a thin omelet.
tortoni
Hailing from Italy, this rich frozen dessert consists of sweetened whipped cream (sometimes ice cream) flavored with spirits such as sherry or rum and combined or topped with chopped almonds or macaroon crumbs. This dessert is often called biscuit tortoni, especially when served in small paper cups.
toss, to
To turn pieces of food over multiple times, thereby mixing the ingredients together. The term is most often applied to salad, where various ingredients and the salad dressing are tossed together, mixing the ingredients and coating them with the dressing.
tostada
A crisp-fried tortilla (corn or flour) topped with various ingredients such as refried beans, shredded chicken or beef, shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, grated cheese, sour cream or guacamole. Tostadas can be large or small and served as an appetizer or entrée.
Toulouse sausage
A small French sausage made of coarsely diced meat flavored with wine, garlic and seasonings. Toulouse sausage is usually braised or fried and makes a good addition to many dishes such as cassoulet. See also sausage.
tourage
A French term for the technique of making puff pastry whereby the dough is repeatedly folded into thirds, rolled out and folded into thirds again. This process creates hundreds of flaky pastry layers.
tournedo
A beef steak cut from the tenderloin, measuring 3/4 to 1 inch thick and 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Since tournedos are very lean, they're sometimes wrapped in cured meats prior to grilling or broiling. Classically, they're served on fried bread rounds and topped with a sauce, such as mushroom sauce.
trans fatty acids
A type of fat created when oils are hydrogenated, which chemically transforms them from their normal liquid state (at room temperature) into solids. During the hydrogenation procedure extra hydrogen atoms are pumped into unsaturated fat, thereby creating trans fatty acids. This process converts the mixture into a saturated fat, which obliterates its polyunsaturate benefits. Trans fatty acids can be found in a wide array of processed foods including cookies and margarines. Any food with "hydrogenated oils" or "partially hydrogenated oils" on the label contains trans fatty acids. Some researchers believe such foods may actually be more damaging than regular saturated fats to those watching their cholesterol, saying trans fatty acids decrease the good (hdl) cholesterol and increase the bad LDLs. Other scientists argue that the evidence is inconclusive and that trans fatty acids are no worse than butter. In either case, it would seem that "moderation" is the watchword when consuming foods containing trans fatty acids. See also fats and oils.
treacle
A term used mainly in Great Britain for the syrupy by-product created during sugar refining. There are two types: dark treacle which is very much like molasses and which has a somewhat bitter taste, and light treacle, which contains fewer impurities than the dark variety, has a lighter flavor and is also called golden syrup.
trenette
A narrower, thicker version of tagliatelle. See also pasta.
trifle
Originally from England, this dessert consists of sponge cake or ladyfingers doused with spirits (usually sherry), covered with jam and custard, topped with whipped cream and garnished with candied or fresh fruit, nuts or grated chocolate. Trifle is refrigerated for several hours before serving.
tripe
The tripe found in most markets today is the lining of beef stomach, though that from veal and sheep also fall under the definition. There are two beef stomach chambers and three kinds of tripe, all of which are tough and require long cooking. The best tripe, from the second stomach chamber, is called honeycomb tripe because the inner side has a pattern similiar to a honeycomb. It's the most tender and subtly flavored. Pocket tripe is cut from the end of the second stomach chamber. It's shaped like a pocket with the inside also being honeycombed. The least desirable plain or smooth tripe (with a smooth texture on both sides) comes from the first stomach. Tripe is available fresh (which is actually partially cooked by the packer) in most supermarkets. Choose tripe with a pale off-white color and store for up to a day in the refrigerator. Tripe is also available pickled and canned. The most famous French dish using this variety meat is the Norman dish called tripes à la mode de Caen tripe braised with carrots, onions and cider. In Spanish-speaking countries, menudo (tripe soup) is a well-known favorite.
Triple Sec
A strong, clear orange-flavored liqueur very similiar to curaçao. Triple Sec is used to make the mixed drink, margarita.
tripolini
Small bow tie-shaped pasta with rounded edges.
triticale
This extremely nutritious hybrid of wheat (Triticum ) and rye (Secale ) contains more protein and less gluten than wheat and has a nutty-sweet flavor. It comes in several forms including whole berry, flakes and flour and can be found in health-food stores. Triticale flour is also available in some supermarkets. Whole triticale can be cooked and used in a variety of dishes including cereals, casseroles, pilaf-style dishes, etc. Because triticale flour is low in gluten, bread made from it alone is quite heavy. For that reason, it's usually combined half-and-half with wheat flour.
trivet
A short-legged (or otherwise raised) stand used to support hot dishes and protect the surface of a table.
Trockenbeerenauslese
Germany's highest classification for very sweet wines made from grapes left on the vine until nearly dry. Because these grapes, picked one by one at fullest maturity, are very concentrated in flavor and sugar, they produce extremely rich, nectarous wines. Trockenbeerenauslese wines are very rare and therefore even more expensive than beerenauslese wines. See also auslese; spätlese.
trompette de la mort mushroom
French for "trumpet of death," this wild mushroom is, in fact, trumpet-shaped. Its cap is thin and gently ruffled, its color ranges from dark gray to black. The flavor of this mushroom is rich, deep and somewhat nutty. The trompette de la mort (also called black chanterelle, horn of plenty and trumpet of death ) can be found fresh from about August to November. The dried form is often available in specialty produce markets and some supermarkets. See also mushroom.
trout
A large group of fishes belonging to the same family as salmon and whitefish. Though most trout are freshwater fish, some live in marine waters. When the first European settlers arrived in North America, trout were very abundant. By the late 1860s, however, a number of factors including overfishing and pollution caused the trout population to diminish drastically. By the end of the 19th century trout hatcheries along with other prevention and regenerative measures taken to forestall the extinction of this delicious fish were in existence. Today trout are plentiful and vary widely in appearance and size. In general, their flesh is firm-textured with medium to high fat content. Probably the best known of the freshwater species is the rainbow trout, which, though native to California, has been transplanted to many different countries and is now one of the most popular varieties in the world. Rainbow trout can grow to up to 50 pounds, but most commercially raised fish average around 8 ounces. Brook or speckled trout are small (6 to 8 inches long) but considered by many as the best eating. Other popular species include steelhead or salmon trout (a large up to 35 pounds subspecies of the rainbow trout), cutthroat trout and brown trout. Saltwater trout or sea trout species, which are generally available only on the East Coast, include gray trout, silver trout, spotted trout and white trout. Trout are available whole fresh and frozen and in fillets. They're most often fried but can also be poached, baked, steamed, grilled and broiled. Whole trout is often stuffed before being cooked. In addition to fresh and frozen, trout can also be found canned, smoked and kippered. See also fish.
truffle
It's hard to believe that one of the rarest and most expensive foods in the world is located by pigs and dogs. This exceptional fungus grows 3 to 12 inches underground near the roots of trees (usually oak but also chestnut, hazel and beech), never beyond the range of the branches. The difficult-to-find truffle is routed out by animals that have been specially trained for several years. Pigs have keener noses, but dogs are less inclined to gobble up the prize. Once the truffle is found, the farmer (trufficulteur ) scrapes back the earth, being careful not to touch the truffle with his hands (which will cause the fungus to rot). If the truffle isn't ripe, it's carefully reburied for future harvesting. This methodically slow and labor-intensive harvesting method is what makes truffles so extremely expensive. Truffles have been prized by gourmets for centuries and were credited by the ancient Greeks and Romans with both therapeutic and aphrodisiac powers. A truffle has a rather unappealing appearance round and irregularly shaped with a thick, rough, wrinkled skin that varies in color from almost black to off-white. Of the almost 70 known varieties, the most desirable is the black truffle, also known as black diamond, of France's Périgord and Quercy regions and the Umbria region of Italy. Its extremely pungent flesh is black (really very dark brown) with white striations. The next most popular is the white truffle (actually off-white or beige) of Italy's Piedmont region, with its earthy, garlicky aroma and flavor. Fresh imported truffles are available from late fall to midwinter in specialty markets. Choose firm, well-shaped truffles with no sign of blemishes. Truffles should be used as soon as possible after purchase but can be stored up to 3 days in the refrigerator. To take full advantage of their perfumy fragrance, bury them in a container of rice or whole eggs and cover tightly before refrigerating. The truffle fragrance will permeate the ingredients they're stored with, giving the cook a double-flavor bonus. Brush any surface dust off the truffle and peel the dark species (saving the peelings for soups). White truffles need not be peeled. Canned truffles, truffle paste in a tube and, to a limited extent, frozen truffles are also found in specialty stores. Dark truffles are generally used to flavor cooked foods such as omelets, polentas, risottos and sauces, like the famous Périgueux. The more mildly flavored white truffles are usually served raw by grating them over foods such as pasta or cheese dishes. They're also added at the last minute to cooked dishes. A special implement called a truffle slicer can be used to shave off paper-thin slivers and slices of truffle. Dishes flavored or garnished with truffles are often referred to as à la Périgourdine. See also chocolate truffle.
truffle, chocolate
A rich confection made with a mélange of melted chocolate, butter or cream, sugar and various flavorings such as liquors, liqueurs, spices, vanilla, coffee and nuts. After the mixture is cooled, it's rolled into balls and coated with various coverings such as unsweetened cocoa powder (the classic coating), chocolate sprinkles, shaved chocolate or sugar. Some truffles are dipped in melted white or dark chocolate, which, after cooling, becomes a hard coating. These confections were so named because the original, cocoa-coated and rather misshapen truffle resembled the famous and rare fungus of the same name.
truss
To secure poultry or other food (usually meat) with string, pins or skewers so the food maintains a compact shape during cooking.
trussing needle
Long stainless-steel needles threaded with twine and used to truss food. They vary in size, usually somewhere from 4 to 10 inches in length.
tsukemono
The general name for Japanese-style pickled vegetables, which are served with practically every Japanese meal, breakfast included. There are numerous pickling techniques and a wide variety of vegetables that are pickled.
tube pan
A round pan with deep sides and a hollow center tube used for baking cake, especially angel food or sponge cake. The tube promotes even baking for the center of the cake. See also bundt pan.
tube steak
Another name for a hot dog.
tubetti
Italian for "little tubes," referring culinarily to tiny, hollow pasta tubes.
Tuile
A thin, crisp, French cookie.
Tuk trey
A much-used (in Cambodia) Khmer marinade of fish sauce, vinegar, lime juice, sugar and garlic.
tulipe
The French word for "tulip," culinarily referring to a thin cookie that is gathered into a ruffled-flower shape while still warm. The ruffled cookie is usually placed into a cup mold (such as a muffin tin) until cool. It can also be draped over an inverted water glass. The crisp cookie cup is used as an edible container for berries, mousse or ice cream.
tuna
Found in temperate marine waters throughout the world, tuna is a member of the mackerel family. It's probably the most popular fish used for canning today. There are numerous varieties of tuna, the best known being albacore, bluefin, yellowfin and bonito. All tunas have a distinctively rich-flavored flesh that is moderate to high in fat, firmly textured, flaky and tender. The high-fat albacore weighs in the 10- to 60-pound range, has the lightest flesh (white with a hint of pink) and is the only tuna that can be called "white." Its mild flavor and prized white flesh make it the most expensive canned tuna. Yellowfin tunas (also called ahi ) are usually larger than albacores, reaching up to 300 pounds. Their flesh is pale pink (it must be called "light"), with a flavor slightly stronger than that of the albacore. Among the largest tunas are the bluefin, which can weigh over 1,000 pounds. Young bluefins have a lighter flesh and are less strongly flavored, but as they grow into adulthood, their flesh turns dark red and their flavor becomes more pronounced. The small bonitos rarely exceed 25 pounds. They range from moderate- to high-fat and are the most strongly flavored of the tunas. Many Japanese dishes use dried bonito, called katsuobushi. Skipjack tunas (also known as Arctic bonito, oceanic bonito, watermelon and, in Hawaii, aku ) get their name because they seem to "skip" out of the water. They can weigh up to 40 pounds, but are more typi-cally ranged from 6 to 8 pounds. Skipjack flesh is similar to that of yellowfin tuna. Depending on the variety, fresh tuna is available seasonally generally starting in late spring and continuing into early fall. Frozen tuna is available year-round and is sold in both steaks and fillets. It may be cooked by almost any method including bak-ing, broiling, grilling and frying. Canned tuna is precooked and is sold as albacore (or white meat) and light meat. It comes in three grades, the best being solid or fancy (large pieces), followed by chunk (smaller pieces) and flaked or grated (bits and pieces). Canned tuna is packed in either water or oil the latter containing far more calories. See also fish.
turban squash
This family of winter squashes all have hard bumpy shells and turbanlike formations at the blossom end. buttercup squash is one of the more popular varieties. Turban squashes come in a variety of sizes ranging from 2 to 15 inches in diameter at the base. Because they're quite colorful, with varying bright hues of orange, green and yellow, turban squashes are often used for decoration rather than eating. They can be baked, steamed or simmered. See also squash.
turbot
1. Found in European waters from Iceland to the Mediterranean, this highly prized flatfish has firm, lean, white flesh with a deliciously mild flavor. Many Europeans rate turbot in the same category as the highly regarded Dover sole. Turbot can reach 30 pounds but are generally marketed at weights closer to 3 to 6 pounds. They're usually imported frozen to the United States. They may be poached, steamed, baked, broiled or fried. 2. The market name used for several types of flounder found in the Pacific. See also fish.
Tureen
A large, deep serving dish for holding soup, or other liquid food, at the table.
turkey
For most families, Thanksgiving dinner would be unthinkable without this large native-American bird on the table. Long before the arrival of European settlers, wild turkeys populated the United States, Mexico and Central America and the Aztecs were busily domesticating them. The conquistadores took some of these domesticated birds back to Spain, and before long Europeans were breeding them into a much plumper version. Interestingly enough, European settlers brought some of these domesticated birds back to the New World in the 1600s and eventually began crossing them with America's wild turkeys. Most U.S. turkeys raised today are from the White Holland variety, which has been bred to produce a maximum of white meat (a U.S. favorite). In fact, the breasts of today's turkeys are so massive that they must rely on artificial insemination because they can't get close enough to mate. Although male (tom ) turkeys can reach 70 pounds, those over 20 pounds are becoming less and less available. The female (hen ) turkey usually weighs from 8 to 16 pounds. Gaining in popularity is a smaller version of both sexes (sometimes called a fryer-roaster ), which weighs in at between 5 and 8 pounds. The trend toward these compact turkeys is the result of both smaller families and the desire of turkey producers to make turkey everyday rather than exclusively holiday fare. Turkeys are available fresh and frozen year-round. They're sold both whole and as separate parts such as breasts or drumsticks. Some whole turkeys have had a built-in plastic thermometer implanted that pops up when the turkey is done. Self-basting turkeys have been injected with butter or vegetable oil. Smoked turkey whole or breast is also available, as is canned boned turkey. Turkey is very similar to chicken in many regards, including usda grading. See chicken for information regarding purchasing, storing and preparing turkey.
Turkish coffee
Very strong coffee made by bringing finely ground coffee (and sometimes spices like cardamom, cinnamon or nutmeg), sugar and water to a boil three times, allowing it to cool very briefly between boilings. Turkish coffee is made in a special long-handled, open, brass or copper pot called a jezve or ibrik and served in tiny cups immediately after the third boil. The bubbly froth that forms on the coffee's surface is said to be a sign of good fortune for anyone who gets some in their cup. Allow a few moments after Turkish coffee is poured to let the grounds settle. See also coffee.
Turkish delight
Called rahat loukoum ("rest for the throat") in Turkey, this rubbery-textured candy is extremely popular throughout the Middle East. It's made from cornstarch or gelatin, sugar, honey and fruit juice or jelly, and is often tinted pink or green. Chopped almonds, pistachio nuts, pine nuts or hazelnuts are frequently added. Once the candy becomes firm, it is cut into small squares and coated with confectioners' sugar. Turkish delight is available commercially in candy shops and some supermarkets.
turmeric
Used in cooking since 600 b.c., turmeric is the root of a tropical plant related to ginger. Though native to the Orient, this spice is now also cultivated in India and the Caribbean. It has a bitter, pungent flavor and an intense yellow-orange color. In Biblical times, turmeric was often used to make perfume, a comment on its rather exotic fragrance. Today it's used mainly to add both flavor and color to food. Turmeric is very popular in East Indian cooking and is almost always used in curry preparations. It's also a primary ingredient in mustard and is what gives American-style prepared mustard its bright yellow color. Powdered turmeric is widely available in supermarkets. As with all spices, it should be stored in a cool, dark place for no more than 6 months. See also spices; herb and spice chart.
turner
A utensil for lifting or removing food from a pan or baking sheet, or for turning food that's being cooked so the second side can brown. Such foods include pancakes, hamburgers, fish, potatoes, eggs and cookies. Turners come in a variety of shapes and designs in order to conveniently meet different cooking tasks. Some turners have holes or slots to allow liquids or fats to drain off the item being lifted. Others are shaped for special uses like the Chinese turner, which has curved edges to fit wok contours. Turners are usually made of nylon (so as not to scratch nonstick finishes) or stainless steel. See also spatula.
turnip
Not only is this root vegetable easy to grow, but it keeps well, too. Because of this, turnips have long been popular in Great Britain and northern Europe. The white-fleshed turnip has a white skin with a purple-tinged top. The so-called yellow turnip is actually a turnip relative, the rutabaga. Small, young turnips have a delicate, slightly sweet taste. As they age, however, their taste becomes stronger and their texture coarser, sometimes almost woody. Fresh turnips are available year-round, with the peak season from October through February. Choose heavy-for-their-size small turnips, as they are the youngsters and will be more delicately flavored and textured. The roots should be firm and the greens (if attached) bright-colored and fresh-looking. Though turnips can be refrigerated, tightly wrapped, for 2 weeks, they do best in a cool (55°F), well-ventilated area such as a root cellar. Before using, they should be washed, trimmed and peeled. Turnips may be boiled or steamed, then mashed or pureed. They can also be stir-fried, cubed and tossed with butter, or used raw in salads. Turnips, a cruciferous vegetable, are a fair source of vitamin C. See also turnip greens.
turnip greens
Long a popular soul food, turnip greens are slightly sweet when young but, as with aging turnips, can become quite tough and strong-tasting as they age. Fresh greens are available year-round, with the peak season from October through February. Choose those that are crisp-looking with a good even color. Avoid greens that are wilted or off-colored. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 3 days. Thoroughly wash and remove any thick ribs before preparing. Turnip greens may be cooked in a variety of ways including boiling, sautéing, steaming and stir-frying. They can be served alone as a vegetable or cooked and served with other greens. Canned and frozen turnip greens are also available in some regions. Turnip greens are an excellent source of vitamins A and C and a good source of riboflavin, calcium and iron.
turnover
Pastry-dough circles or squares that are covered with a sweet or savory filling, then folded in half to create a pastry in the shape of a triangle or semicircle. The edges are usually pinched or crimped to prevent the filling from leaking. Turnovers may be baked or deep-fried. They can range from bite-size to about 6 inches across and can be served as appetizers, luncheon entrées or desserts.
tutti-frutti
1. An Italian term meaning "all fruits" that refers to a preserve made with various diced fruits mixed with sugar and brandy. It's since been used to describe ice cream or other desserts that contain a variety of minced, candied fruits. 2. A synthetic, fruity flavoring used in various gums and candies.
Tybo cheese
Similar to a mild-flavored samsoe, the Danish, loaf-shaped Tybo is made from cows' milk. Its yellow rind encloses a cream-colored interior dotted with holes. Its mild taste makes it good for sandwiches, salads, sauces and a variety of cooked dishes. Some tybos are flavored with caraway seeds. See also cheese.
Tzaziki
Greek yogurt sauce.
tzimmes
Traditionally served on Rosh Hashana, this sweet Jewish dish consists of various combinations of fruits, meat and vegetables. Tzimmes may include brisket of beef, sweet potatoes, potatoes, farfel, prunes and other dried fruit, carrots or apples all flavored with honey and often cinnamon. This casserole-style dish is cooked at very low heat so the flavors have a chance to blend.
Udo
A Japanese vegetable that belongs to the ginseng family. Its tender stalks resemble asparagus but have a light fennel flavor. Udo is used raw in salads or lightly cooked in soups and other dishes.
Udon
A thick Japanese noodle.
ugli fruit
Its origins are vague, but the native Jamaican ugli fruit is believed to be a tangerine-grapefruit hybrid (though the pomelo may also have been involved). It ranges in size between that of a navel orange and a giant grapefruit. Its acid-sweet flavor suggests grapefruit with hints of orange. The extremely thick, yellow-green skin fits rather loosely over the large, juicy, yellow-orange pulp sections. Ugli fruit is available on a limited basis around the country from winter to spring. Choose fruit that's heavy for its size and that gives slightly to palm pressure. Store at room temperature and use within 5 days or refrigerate up to 3 weeks. Ugli fruit may be prepared and eaten in any way suitable for grapefruit. It's an excellent source of vitamin C.
umeboshi
Pickled Japanese plums that are picked before they're ripe, then soaked in brine and red shiso leaves, the latter of which adds flavor and a pink coloring. This Japanese condiment is very salty and tart and is a popular adjunct to most Japanese meals, including breakfast. Pureed umeboshi, called bainiku, is used as a seasoning. Umeboshi can be found in jars and cans in Asian markets and in some gourmet markets.
Unleavened
Describes a dough that is made without leavening or yeast. Unleavened
unmold
To remove molded food from the container (usually a decorative mold) in which it was made. The process generally requires inverting the container over a serving plate.
upside-down cake
Of this genre, the most popular is undoubtedly the traditional pineapple upside-down cake. Any fruit can be used, however, and this dessert is made by covering the bottom of a cake pan with butter and sugar topped with decoratively arranged fruit, then cake batter. During the baking process, the sugar, butter and fruit juices combine to create a caramelized glaze. Before serving, the cake is inverted onto a serving plate so the glazed fruit becomes the top of the cake.
Véronique
A term describing dishes garnished with seedless white grapes. One of the most popular of these dishes is sole Véronique fillet of sole poached in white wine, covered with a white sauce and garnished with white grapes.
Vacherin
A dessert consisting of several crisp meringue rings stacked on top of each other and placed on a meringue or pastry base. Alternatively, the rings may be made with almond paste. This "container" may be filled with ice cream or crème chantilly and/or various fruits.
vacherin cheeses
Any of several rich and creamy cow's-milk cheeses from France or Switzerland, characteristically containing 45 to 50 percent milk fat. Vacherin Fribourgeois from the Swiss canton of Fribourg has a grayish-yellow rind and a pale yellow, semisoft interior. Its mildly acidic, resiny flavor is reminiscent of gruyère. Vacherin Mont d'Or, which is made both in France and Switzerland, has a rich, slightly sweet flavor. The ripest of these cheeses are often so runny that they're eaten with a spoon. Vacherin d'Abondance and Vacherin des Dauges are French varieties that are soft and sweet-tasting. See also cheese.
Valencia orange
Grown in Arizona, California, Florida and Texas, the Valencia orange has a thin, deep golden skin that's difficult to peel. Its flesh is sweet, juicy and contains few seeds. The Valencia is good both as a juice fruit and for eating out of hand. It's in season from January to November. See also orange.
Valpolicella
Produced in northern Italy, this dry red wine is light-bodied and has a fragrant bouquet and fruity flavor. It's best served young and is sometimes viewed as Italy's version of a French beaujolais.
vanilla
Dictionaries describe the term "plain-vanilla" as something "simple, plain or ordinary." Few statements could be further from the truth for there is definitely nothing ordinary about the seductively aromatic vanilla bean. This long, thin pod is the fruit of a luminous celadon-colored orchid (vanilla planifolia ), which, of over 20,000 orchid varieties, is the only one that bears anything edible. Native to tropical America, the vanilla bean was cultivated and processed by the Aztecs, who used it to flavor their cocoa-based drink, xocolatl, later transliterated to chocolatl. That basic flavoring wisdom is still true today... vanilla deliciously heightens chocolate's flavor. The vanilla bean was once considered an aphrodisiac, and was so rare that it was reserved for royalty. Because of the extremely labor-intensive, time-consuming process by which it's obtained, pure vanilla is still relatively expensive today. The saga begins with the orchid blossoms, which open only one day a year (and then only for a few hours). Because this particular orchid has only one natural pollinator (the Melipona bee), which cannot possibly handle the task in such a small period of time, the flower must be hand-pollinated otherwise, no vanilla bean. After pollination, pods take 6 weeks to reach full size (6 to 10 inches long), and 8 to 9 months after that to mature. The mature pods, which must be hand-picked, are green and have none of the familiar vanilla flavor or fragrance. For that they need curing, a 3- to 6-month process that begins with a 20-second boiling-water bath followed by sun heating. Once the beans are hot, they're wrapped in blankets and allowed to sweat. Over a period of months of drying in the sun by day and sweating in blankets at night, the beans ferment, shrinking by 400 percent and turning their characteristic dark brown. The better grades of beans become thinly coated with a white, powdery coating called vanillin (which is also produced synthetically). Today, the three most common types of vanilla beans are Bourbon-Madagascar, Mexican and Tahitian. Bourbon-Madagascar vanilla beans come from Madagascar, off the southeast coast of Africa, and its neighbor 420 miles away the West Indian island of Réunion. They're rich and sweet and the thinnest of the three types of beans. About 75 percent of the world's vanilla-bean supply comes from the Madagascar area. The thick Mexican vanilla beans come from environs surrounding Veracruz. They have a smooth, rich flavor but are scarcer than the Bourbon-Madacascar beans because most areas where the orchid once thrived are now dedicated to oil fields and orange groves. Additionally, some Mexican vanilla products though considerably cheaper than their U.S. supermarket counterparts are suspect because they contain coumarin (banned by the fda), a potentially toxic substance that can cause liver and kidney damage. Unfortunately, there's no way for the consumer to tell which Mexican vanilla products contain this toxin so the best safeguard is to buy Mexican vanilla beans from a reliable source. Tahitian vanilla beans are the thickest and the darkest (a blackish brown) of the three types. It's intensely aromatic, though not as flavorful as the other two types of beans. Vanilla powder is the whole, dried bean ground until powdery. Its flavor doesn't evaporate when heated as readily as that of vanilla extract, which makes it better suited for baked goods, custards, etc. Vanilla powder is available in specialty cake decorating supply shops, some gourmet markets and through mail order. Vanilla extract is the most common form of vanilla used today. It's made by macerating chopped beans in an alcohol-water solution in order to extract the flavor; the mixture is then aged for several months. To meet fda standards, pure vanilla extract must contain 13.35 ounces of vanilla beans per gallon during extraction and 35 percent alcohol. The resulting brown liquid is clear and richly fragrant. (There are double- and triple-strength vanilla extracts, as well as a vanilla essence so strong that only a drop or two is needed available through special suppliers by mail order.) You can count on products labeled "natural vanilla flavor" containing only pure vanilla extract. Imitation vanilla is composed entirely of artificial flavorings (most of which are paper-industry by-products treated with chemicals). It often has a harsh quality that leaves a bitter aftertaste. Pure vanilla extract is about twice as expensive as its imitation counterpart, but there's no real comparison in flavor intensity and quality, and only about half the amount is needed. Vanilla descriptions on labels can be confusing. Natural vanillin is a substance intrinsic to the vanilla bean, whereas artificial vanillin is made from wood-pulp by-products. Vanilla flavoring describes a blend of pure and imitation vanilla. In the United States, a label that reads vanilla ice cream may only be made with pure vanilla extract and/or vanilla beans, whereas vanilla-flavored ice cream may contain up to 42 percent artificial flavorings and artificial-flavored ice cream contains only imitation flavorings. Vanilla extracts are readily available and vanilla beans can be found in supermarkets and most specialty food stores. Most commercial vanilla beans are Bourbon-Madagascar; Tahitian and Mexican beans (as well as better grades of Bourbon-Madagascar) are more readily available through mail order. Extracts can be stored indefinitely if sealed airtight and kept in a cool, dark place. Vanilla beans should be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, placed in an airtight jar and refrigerated. They can be stored in this manner for about 6 months. In order for its flavor not to dissipate, vanilla extract should be added to cooked mixtures after they've been briefly cooled. To use vanilla beans, slit them lengthwise down the center and scrape out the thousands of diminutive seeds. These seeds can be added directly to foods such as ice-cream mixtures, shortening to be used for pastry dough, sauces, etc. Homemade vanilla extract can be made by placing a split bean in a jar containing 3/4 cup vodka, sealing and letting it stand for 6 months. Vanilla beans may also be used to make deliciously fragrant vanilla sugar. Whole beans that have been used to flavor sauces or other mixtures may be rinsed, dried and stored for reuse. Vanilla adds flavor magic to a multitude of sweet and some savory dishes.
vanilla sugar
Wonderfully fragrant and flavorful sugar made by burying vanilla beans in granulated or confectioners' sugar usually in the proportion of two beans for each pound of sugar. The mixture is stored in an airtight container for about a week before the vanilla bean is removed. The result is a delicious and perfumy sugar that can be used as an ingredient or decoration for baked goods, fruit and other desserts. Vanilla beans may be reused in this fashion for up to 6 months.
varak; varaq
Edible, gossamer-thin sheets of pure silver or gold that for centuries have been popular decorations in India for special-occasion desserts, confections, nuts and rice dishes. Varak sheets, which are flavorless and odorless, can be found in Indian markets and cake decorating supply shops. The gold- and silver-leaf sheets usually come in packages of twenty-four, each section sandwiched between two sheets of paper. Varak sheets are so fragile that they dissolve easily with human touch and can be torn by the barest breath of air. For that reason, it's best to remove the top piece of paper from a sheet of varak and then invert the varak on top of the food to be decorated. The varak will stick to the food, and the paper can be peeled off. Varak will keep indefinitely if stored in an airtight container (to prevent tarnishing) in a cool, dry place. Also called vark.
varietal wine
A term describing wines made chiefly from one variety of grape. Such wines portray the dominant characteristics of the primary grape used. Among the more popular varietals are cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, chenin blanc, gewürztraminer, petite sirah, pinot noir, sauvignon blanc and zinfandel.
variety meats
Called offal in Great Britain, variety meats are animal innards and extremities that can be used in cooking. They include brains, feet and ankles, heart, kidneys, liver, sweetbreads, tongue and tripe. Some of the more obscure variety-meat trimmings are used for sausage.
veal
Though there are no precise age standards for veal, the term is generally used to describe a young calf from 1 to 3 months old. Milk-fed veal comes from calves up to 12 weeks old who have not been weaned from their mother's milk. Their delicately textured flesh is firm and creamy white with a pale grayish-pink tinge. Formula-fed veal can come from calves up to about 4 months old, fed a special diet of milk solids, fats, various nutrients and water. The meat from formula-fed veal is not as rich or delicate as milk-fed veal because of the diet's missing milk fat. The term Bob veal applies to calves younger than 1 month old. Their pale, shell-pink flesh is quite bland and the texture is soft. In all true veal, the animals haven't been allowed to eat grains or grasses, either of which would cause the flesh to darken. Calves between 6 and 12 months old are called baby beef, and have flesh that's coarser, stronger-flavored and from pink to light red in color. True veal is usually plentiful in the spring and late winter. At other times of the year, calves over 3 months old are often sold as veal. The usda grades veal in six different categories; from highest to lowest they are Prime, Choice, Good, Standard, Utility and Cull. The last three grades are rarely sold in retail outlets. When choosing veal, let color be your guide. The flesh should be creamy white barely tinged with grayish-pink and the fat white. Meat that's pink turning red means the so-called "veal" is older than it should be. Veal's texture should be firm, finely grained and smooth. For storage information, see listing for beef. Veal is often cooked by moist-heat methods to compensate for its lack of natural fat. It is easy to overcook and dry out, so careful attention must be paid during preparation. The delicate flavor and fine texture of veal have appealed to diners for centuries. Among the numerous dishes created to highlight this meat are veal cordon bleu, veal marengo, veal orloff, veal oscar, osso buco, veal parmigiana, veal piccata and veal scaloppine.
veal Orloff
This classic presentation begins with a braised loin of veal carved into even horizontal slices. Each slice is spread with a thin layer of pureed sautéed mushrooms and onions. The coated slices are stacked back in place and tied together to reform the loin. Then the layered loin is smothered with additional mushroom-onion puree, topped with Béchamel sauce and grated Parmesan cheese and oven-browned for about 10 minutes.
veal Oscar; veal Oskar
Said to have been named in honor of Sweden's King Oscar ii, who was especially partial to its ingredients, this dish consists of sautéed veal cutlets topped with Béarnaise sauce. Veal Oscar is finished with a garnish of asparagus spears.
veal piccata
Hailing from Italy, this classic dish consists of a seasoned and floured veal escalope that is quickly sautéed and served with a sauce made from the pan drippings, lemon juice and chopped parsley. Chicken is also sometimes prepared in this manner.
veau
French for "veal."
vegetable marrow
Cultivated in England, this green, oval summer squash can grow to the size of a watermelon. It's closely related to the zucchini and can be cooked in any manner suitable for that vegetable. Because of its bland flavor, vegetable marrow (also called marrow squash ) is often stuffed with a meat mixture. It's available in limited supplies in some specialty produce markets during the summer months. See also squash.
vegetable oils
Any of various edible oils made from a plant source, such as vegetables, nuts or seeds. See also almond oil; canola oil; corn oil; cottonseed oil; fats and oils; grapeseed oil; hazelnut oil; olive oil; peanut oil; pumpkin seed oil; safflower oil; sesame oil; soybean oil; sunflower seed oil; walnut oil.
vegetable peeler
A kitchen utensil designed to peel away the outer skin of vegetables. Vegetable peelers come in many designs and are made from a variety of materials. The better ones have a swivel-action blade that conforms to the contour of the vegetable being peeled, thereby cutting away a minimum of skin.
vegetable protein
Also called plant protein or textured vegetable protein, this product is obtained from protein-rich soybeans. The beans are ground and processed through a spinning/extrusion technique until they become strands of almost pure protein. Vegetable protein is used in commercial meat and poultry products as a binder and extender. It can be found in foods such as meat substitutes, luncheon meats and sausages, as well as in packaged sauces, soups and other processed foods. Although nutritiously rich, vegetable protein can't match the flavor and aroma of the meat products. See also hydrolyzed plant protein.
vegetable shortening
A solid fat made from vegetable oils, such as soybean and cottonseed oil. Although made from oil, shortening has been chemically transformed into a solid state through hydrogenation (see fats and oils), a process that creates trans fatty acids and converts the mixture into a saturated fat, thereby destroying any polyunsaturate benefits. Vegetable shortening is virtually flavorless and may be substituted for other fats in baking and cooking. It can be stored at room temperature for up to a year.
vegetarian
Very simply, a vegetarian is one who eschews the consumption of meat or other animal foods. However, vegetarianism, which has been practiced since ancient times, is certainly not one-faceted. The wide-ranging custom of vegetarianism may be based on a variety of personal principles including religious (certain Hindu and Buddhist sects), ethical (cruelty to animals and more efficient use of world food resources), nutritional (the healthy benefits of reducing fat and cholesterol) and economic (nonmeat products are, on the average, less expensive). There are several types of vegetarians today. Vegans, who are the purists of the vegetarian world and who have the most limited diet, refuse to eat all animal-derivative foods including butter, cheese, eggs and milk. Ovo-lacto vegetarians consider such animal-related foods acceptable but, of course, do not eat meat. Then there are those vegetarians who will eat fish and/or poultry, but not other animal meat. Across the board, most vegetarians prefer their food organically grown and (if they eat fish and fowl) organically fed. Vegetarians get their protein from a variety of sources, such as foods from the large family of legumes.
Velouté
A creamy white, stock-based sauce.
velouté sauce
One of the five "mother sauces," velouté is a stock-based white sauce. It can be made from chicken or veal stock or fish fumet thickened with white roux. Enrichments such as egg yolks or cream are sometimes also added. Velouté sauce is the base for a number of other sauces. See also sauce.
velvet hammer
A rich, creamy cocktail made with cointreau or triple sec, Tía María, heavy cream and sometimes brandy. The mixture is shaken with ice and strained into a cocktail glass. The result is smooth but potent.
Verbena
alt spellings: Lemon VerbenaA lemon-flavored South American herb.
verjuice
An acidic, sour liquid made from unripe fruit, primarily grapes. Verjuice is used in preparations like sauces and mustards to heighten flavor, much as lemon juice or vinegar would be employed. Not widely used since medieval and Renaissance times, verjuice is now enjoying a comeback in many dishes. Though it is occasionally available in specialty gourmet shops, verjuice is extremely difficult to find in the United States.
Verjus
alt spellings: VerjuiceSour liquid made from unripe fruit; used to flavor sauces and condiments.
Vermicelli
Thin-stranded yellow (Italian) or clear (Asian) pasta.
vermouth
White wine that has been fortified and flavored with various herbs and spices. The name "vermouth" comes from the German wermut ("wormwood") which, before it was declared poisonous, was once the principal flavoring ingredient. There are several types of this wine, the most popular being white dry vermouth, commonly thought of as French (although it's made in other countries including the U.S.). It's drunk as an apéritif and used in non-sweet cocktails like the martini. Sweet vermouth is reddish brown (colored with caramel) and is also used as an apéritif as well as in slightly sweet cocktails such as the manhattan. A third style not as popular as the other two is white and slightly sweet. It's called Bianco by Italians.
verte, sauce
French for "green sauce," sauce verte is simply green-colored mayonnaise. To obtain the color, a green ingredient (such as parsley, spinach or watercress) is blanched, pureed, then placed in the middle of a kitchen towel and squeezed tightly. The extracted juice is mixed with mayonnaise, resulting in a green-colored mixture that simply tastes like mayonnaise. Sauce verte is typically served with cold fish dishes.
viande
The French word for "meat."
Vichy carrots
A dish of thinly sliced carrots that are combined with a small amount of water (to be authentic it must be vichy water), butter and sugar, then covered and cooked over low heat until tender. Vichy carrots (also called carrots à la Vichy ) are garnished with minced parsley.
Vichy water
1. A naturally sparkling mineral water from the springs located in and around central France's well-known spa city of Vichy. This famous potable is the water that is supposed to be used to prepare vichy carrots. 2. This term is sometimes also used to describe sparkling mineral water that resembles the true Vichy water.
Vichyssoise
Creamy potato and leek soup, served cold.
Viennese coffee
Strong hot coffee, sweetened to taste, served in a tall glass and crowned with whipped cream. See also coffee.
vin
French for "wine." Vin maison is "house wine," vin ordinaire is "ordinary (or table) wine," vin de table is "table wine," vin rouge is "red wine" and vin blanc is "white wine."
vinaigre
French for "vinegar."
vinaigrette
One of the five "mother sauces," vinaigrette is a basic oil-and-vinegar combination, generally used to dress salad greens and other cold vegetable, meat or fish dishes. In its simplest form, vinaigrette consists of oil, vinegar (usually 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar), salt and pepper. More elaborate variations can include any of various ingredients such as spices, herbs, shallots, onions, mustard, etc. See also sauce.
vindaloo
Specialties of central and southwestern coastal India, vindaloos are the most mouth-searing of the curry dishes. The complicated roasted spice blend on which they're based can contain any of various ingredients including mustard seeds, cumin seeds, ginger, peppercorns, fenugreek seeds, cloves and coriander seeds. Red chiles are a must and tamarind concentrate is favored. Vindaloo sauce is typically combined with meat and served with rice. Premade vindaloo pastes and dried spice blends are available in Indian markets.
vinegar
Derived from the French vin aigre, "sour wine," vinegar is made by bacterial activity thats converts fermented liquids such as wine, beer or cider into a weak solution of acetic acid (the constituent that makes it sour). Vinegar has been used for centuries for everything from beverages (like shrubs), to an odor-diminisher for strong foods such as cabbage and onions, to a hair rinse and softener. There are a multitude of vinegar varieties available today. In the United States, the most popular styles are the fruity apple cider vinegar, made from fermented apple cider, and the rather harsh-tasting distilled white vinegar, made from a grain-alcohol mixture. The French prefer pleasantly pungent wine vinegars, which can be made from either red or white wine. In Britain the favorite is mild malt vinegar, obtained from malted barley. The exquisite Italian balsamic vinegar, made from white Trebbiano grape juice, gets its dark color and pungent sweetness from aging in barrels of various woods and in graduating sizes over a period of years. It should be noted that many balsamic vinegars contain sulfites, which are primarily added to inhibit the growth of unfavorable, flavor-detracting bacteria. Herb vinegars are made by steeping fresh herbs such as dill and tarragon in vinegar. Popular fruit vinegars include those made with raspberries and blueberries. Mild and slightly sweet rice vinegar, made from fermented rice, is widely used in Japanese and Chinese cooking. It's a key element in dishes such as sushi. Cane vinegar is made from sugarcane and has a rich, slightly sweet flavor. Vinegar is essential in making pickles, mustards and vinaigrettes. It adds a jolt of flavor to numerous sauces, marinades and dressings, and to preparations such as sauerbraten, sweet-and-sour dishes and marinated herring. It's also widely used as a table condiment for dishes such as England's fish and chips. Vinegar should be stored airtight in a cool, dark place. Unopened, it will keep indefinitely; once opened it can be stored for about 6 months. See also mother of vinegar; su.
vintage
This wine term describes a grape harvest of a specific year. A vintage wine is one that's made using 95 percent of those grapes. Wines made from grapes harvested from several years are called "nonvintage." See also wine.
vitello
Italian for "veal."
Vitello tonnato
An Italian classic of cold, thinly sliced, roasted veal (vitello) with a sauce of pureed tuna (tonno), anchovy, capers, lemon and olive oil.
Viticulture
The cultivation, study and science of grape growing.
vodka
A clear, colorless, unaged liquor originally made in Russia from potatoes. Today's vodka, which is almost odorless and tasteless, may be made from other ingredients such as corn, wheat or rye. Vodka is integral to many cocktails such as the screwdriver, bloody mary and vodka martini. If served straight, it should always be icy-cold. Flavored vodkas have become popular in the United States and may be flavored with anything from fruits to hot peppers. Some flavored vodkas are even sweetened slightly.
Vol au vent
A round case of puff pastry with a pastry lid which is filled after baking and served as an hors d'oeuvre. The filling is made up of meat, fish or vegetables in a sauce.
vol-au-vent
Said to have been created by the famous French chef Carême, a vol-au-vent is a puff pastry shell that resembles a pot with a lid. It can be small (individual-size) or large (6 to 8 inches in diameter). The pastry is classically filled with a cream sauce-based mixture, usually of chicken, fish, meat or vegetables. The puff-pastry lid is set on top of the filling. This dish may be served as an appetizer or an entrée. The term vol-au-vent, "flying in the wind," refers to the pastry's incredible lightness.
Vouvray
Any of various white wines made in and around the French village of Vouvray in the Loire Valley, usually from chenin blanc grapes. These wines can vary greatly, with a broad range including dry, semisweet, sweet, slightly sparkling or fully sparkling. Vouvrays can range from average to excellent, depending on the vintner.
waffle
The honeycombed surface of this crisp, light bread is perfect for holding pockets of syrup. Waffles are made by pouring a light batter onto one side of a waffle iron, a special hinged cooking utensil with two honeycomb patterned griddles. The second side is closed over the batter and the waffle is cooked until browned and crisp. Waffle irons can be electric or designed for stovetop cooking. Electric waffle irons have heating elements in both sides, thereby cooking the two sides of the bread at once. Irons heated on top of a stove must be turned over once during cooking to finish the second side. There are a number of waffle-iron shapes available including square, rectangular, round and even heart-shape. Belgian waffles, which are often heaped with fresh strawberries and whipped cream, are made on special waffle makers with particularly large, deep grids. Most modern waffle irons have nonstick surfaces. Waffles are popular not only for breakfast, but for desserts as well. Savory waffles can be topped with creamed meat or vegetable mixtures.
wahoo
With a flavor often compared to that of albacore, the wahoo's moderate- to high-fat flesh is fine, white (with a little red) and slightly sweet. In fact, Hawaiians call this fish ono, which means "sweet." Wahoo are normally caught in the 20- to 40-pound range although they can get much larger. Those that reach the market are usually in the form of chunks or in fillet pieces. Wahoo may be baked, broiled or grilled. See also fish.
wakame
A deep green, edible seaweed popular in Japan and other Asian countries. It's used like a vegetable in soups and simmered dishes, as well as occasionally in salads. The browner versions are more strongly flavored. Wakame is available both in fresh and dried forms in Asian markets.
Waldorf salad
Created at New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in the 1890s, the original version of this salad contained only apples, celery and mayonnaise. Chopped walnuts later became an integral part of the dish. Waldorf salad is usually served on top of a bed of lettuce.
walnut
The fruit of the walnut tree, which grows in temperate zones throughout the world. The two most popular varieties of walnut are the english (also called Persian ) walnut and the black walnut. A close relative is the butternut, also referred to as white walnut. English walnuts are the most widely available and come in many varieties some with moderately thick shells, others with shells so thin a tiny bird can crack them open. They're available year-round and come in three main sizes: large, medium and babies. When buying walnuts in the shell, choose those free of cracks or holes. Shelled walnuts should be plump, meaty and crisp; shriveled nutmeats are past their prime. Walnuts in the shell can be stored in a cool, dry place up to 3 months. Shelled nutmeats should be refrigerated, tightly covered, up to 6 months. They can be frozen up to a year. Walnuts are delicious in a variety of sweet and savory dishes and baked goods. They're also used to make a fragrant, flavorful oil (see walnut oil). See also nuts.
walnut oil
Its distinctively nutty flavor and fragrance make it obvious that this oil is extracted from walnut meats. Walnut oil is expensive and can be found in some supermarkets and most gourmet food stores. A blander, less expensive variety can be found in health-food stores. Store walnut oil in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months. To prevent rancidity, refrigeration is best. Walnut oil is frequently used in salad dressings, often combined with less flavorful oils. It can also be used in sauces, main dishes and baked goods, and for sautéing. The French term for walnut oil is huile de noix. See also fats and oils.
wasabi; wasabe
This Japanese version of horseradish comes from the root of an Asian plant. It's used to make into a green-colored condiment that has a sharp, pungent, fiery flavor. Wasabi, which is also called Japanese horseradish, is available in specialty and Asian markets in both paste and powder form. The latter is mixed with water much like dry mustard. Some specialty produce markets carry fresh wasabi, which may be grated like horseradish. In Japan, sushi and sashimi are served with a condiment of wasabi mixed with soy sauce.
wassail
Ves heill, Norse for "be in good health," is an old toast and the origin of this word. Wassail is a drink consisting of ale or wine sweetened with sugar and flavored with spices. This brew is traditionally served in a large "wassail bowl," garnished with small roasted apples and ladled into serving cups.
water bath
The French call this cooking technique bain marie. It consists of placing a container (pan, bowl, soufflé dish, etc.) of food in a large, shallow pan of warm water, which surrounds the food with gentle heat. The food may be cooked in this manner either in an oven or on top of a range. This technique is designed to cook delicate dishes such as custards, sauces and savory mousses without breaking or curdling them. It can also be used to keep cooked foods warm.
water biscuit
A bland, crisp cracker that's often served with cheese and wine. The fact that the cracker is almost flavorless makes it a perfect foil for most foods because it allows their natural flavor to be appreciated.
water chestnut
The edible tuber of a water plant indigenous to Southeast Asia. The water chestnut's brownish-black skin resembles that of a true chestnut, but its flesh is white, crunchy and juicy. The flavor is bland with a hint of sweetness. Water chestnuts are very popular in Asian cooking, especially in stir-fried dishes where their crunchy texture is a standout. Water chestnuts are available fresh in most Chinese markets. Choose those that are firm with no sign of shriveling. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to a week. Peel before using raw or in cooked preparations. Water chestnuts are also available canned either whole or sliced in most supermarkets, but the fresh are far superior. See also water chestnut powder.
water chestnut powder
Also called water chestnut flour, this powdered starch is ground from dried water chestnuts. It's used as a thickener in Asian cooking. Like cornstarch, it's mixed with a small amount of water before being added to the hot mixture to be thickened. It can also be used to dredge foods before frying. Water chestnut powder is available in Asian markets and in some health-food stores.
watercress
Cool running water is the growing ground for this member of the mustard family, which can often be found in the wild in and around streams and brooks. Watercress has small, crisp, dark green leaves. Its pungent flavor is slightly bitter and has a peppery snap. Watercress is available year-round and is customarily sold in small bouquets. Choose crisp leaves with deep, vibrant color. There should be no sign of yellowing or wilting. Refrigerate in a plastic bag (or stems-down in a glass of water covered with a plastic bag) for up to 5 days. Wash and shake dry just before using. Watercress may be used in salads, sandwiches, soups and a variety of cooked dishes. It's also a popular garnish, fast replacing the ubiquitous parsley.
watermelon
Native to Africa, the watermelon is one of two broad categories of melon, the other being muskmelon. It's considered the less sophisticated of the two because it lacks flavor complexity and has a watery texture. But there are those who wouldn't trade a slice of watermelon on a hot summer day for anything. There are an untold number of watermelon varieties but America's most popular is the large, elongated-oval shape with a variegated or striped, two-tone green or gray-green rind. It averages 15 to 35 pounds but may be much smaller or larger, depending on the variety. There are even relatively tiny varieties about the size of a medium cantaloupe. An abundance of shiny, black seeds dot the sweet, red, refreshingly moist flesh. Other watermelon varieties have flesh that ranges in color from white to yellow to pink. The seeds may be speckled or solid and variously colored black, brown, green, red or white. Seedless watermelons actually do, more often than not, have a few scattered seeds. What seeds there are, however, are small, soft and edible. All parts of the watermelon can be used. Asians love the roasted seeds, and the pickled rind is a favorite in many parts of the world. Watermelons are available May to September, though they're at their peak from mid-June to late August. They're sold whole as well as in halves, quarters or by the slice. Look for symmetrical melons without any flat sides. Depending on the variety, the shape can be round or an oblong oval. Slap the side of the watermelon if it resounds with a hollow thump, it's a good indicator that the melon is ripe. The rind should be dull (not shiny) and just barely yield to pressure. Never take home a melon with soft spots, gashes or other blemishes on the rind. Cut watermelons should display a brightly colored flesh. An abundance of small, white seeds means the melon is immature. Avoid cut melons with a grainy or dry-looking flesh. Store whole watermelon in the refrigerator if at all possible and keep no more than a week. If it's too large for your unit, keep in a cool, dark place. Cut watermelon should always be tightly wrapped, refrigerated and used within a day or so. It should be served cold, either in wedges or made into balls and served as part of a fruit cup or salad. Watermelon contains a fair amount of vitamins A and C. See also melon.
waterzooi
This classic Belgian dish is a creamy-rich fish stew that can be made with either fresh- or saltwater fish. A chicken rendition is also popular. All versions include a variety of vegetables and herbs, and are enriched with egg yolks, cream and butter.
wax paper; waxed paper
Semitransparent paper with a thin coating of wax on both sides. Because of its moistureproof and nonstick characteristics, wax paper used to play a major role in the kitchen for duties such as covering food and lining baking pans. In recent years, however, wax paper has been replaced in many of its roles by aluminum foil or plastic wrap.
weakfish
A member of the drum fish family but different from the croaker and black and red drums. The weakfish gets its name from the weak flesh around the mouth that tears easily when hooked. It has white, lean, finely textured flesh and is considered an excellent food fish. This species, which is found in the Atlantic and parts of the Pacific along both North and South America, is also called seatrout, spotted sea trout, squeteague, gray trout and corvina (or corbina ). See also fish.
Wehani rice
Considered an aromatic rice, Wehani is a light clay-colored brown rice (see rice) that splits slightly when cooked. It resembles cooked wild rice and has a fragrance akin to popcorn. Wehani, which is related to basmati rice, was developed at the famous rice-growing Lundberg Family Farms in Richvale, California.
weiner dog
Another name for a hot dog.
weisswurst
German for "white sausage," weisswurst is a delicate sausage made with veal, cream and eggs. It's traditionally served during Oktoberfest with sweet mustard, rye bread and beer. See also sausage.
well-and-tree platter
A platter with troughs formed into the bottom to resemble bare tree branches attached to a central trunk, at one end of which is a shallow well. Such a configuration allows the juices of meats being cut on the platter to drain.
Welsh rabbit; Welsh rarebit
This popular British dish consists of a melted mixture of cheddar cheese, beer (sometimes ale or milk) and seasonings served over toast. The cheese mixture can also be toasted on the bread. Welsh rabbit is usually served as a main course or for high tea, often accompanied with tomatoes. Welsh rabbit becomes a golden buck when topped with a poached egg.
wheat
Thought to have been growing since Paleolithic times and cultivated for at least 6,000 years, wheat is the world's largest cereal-grass crop. Its status as a staple is second only to rice. One reason for its popularity is that unlike other cereals wheat contains a relatively high amount of gluten, the protein that provides the elasticity necessary for excellent breadmaking. Though there are over 30,000 varieties of wheat, the three major types are hard wheat, soft wheat and durum wheat. Hard wheat is high in protein (10 to 14 percent) and yields a flour rich in gluten, making it particularly suitable for yeast breads. The low-protein (6 to 10 percent) soft wheat yields a flour lower in gluten and therefore better suited for tender baked goods such as biscuits and cakes. Durum wheat, although high in gluten, is not good for baking. Instead, it's most often ground into semolina, the basis for excellent pasta. In the United States, wheat is also classified according to the time of year it is sown namely, spring wheat and winter wheat (which is actually sown in the fall). The unprocessed wheat kernel, commonly known as a wheat berry, is made up of three major portions bran, germ and endosperm. Wheat bran, the rough outer covering, has very little nutritional value but plenty of fiber. During milling, the bran is removed from the kernel. It's sold separately and used to add flavor and fiber to baked goods. Wheat germ, essentially the embryo of the berry, is a concentrated source of vitamins, minerals and protein. It has a nutty flavor and is very oily, which causes it to turn rancid quickly. Wheat germ is sold in both toasted and natural forms and is used to add nutrition to a variety of foods. Wheat germ oil, an extraction of the germ, is strongly flavored and expensive. The wheat endosperm, which makes up the majority of the kernel, is full of starch, protein, niacin and iron. It's the primary source of many wheat flours. In addition to flour, wheat is available in several other forms including wheat berries, cracked wheat and bulghur wheat. Wheat berries are whole, unprocessed kernels, whereas cracked wheat is the whole berry broken into coarse, medium and fine fragments. Both are sold in health-food stores and may be cooked as cereal, or in pilafs, breads or other dishes. See also kamut.
wheat beer
A beer made from malted wheat, characterized by its pale color and subtle, lager like flavor. See also beer.
Whetstone
A piece of stone, used for whetting, or sharpening, edge tools.
whey
The watery liquid that separates from the solids (curds) in cheesemaking. Whey is sometimes further processed into whey cheese (see cheese). It can be separated another step, with butter being made from the fattier share. Whey is also used in processed foods such as crackers. Primarily, however, whey is more often used as livestock feed than it is in the human diet.
whip
n. 1. A gelatin-based dessert that's airy and light because of the addition of either whipped cream or stiffly beaten egg whites. Such desserts are usually made with fruit puree but can also be flavored with other ingredients such as chocolate or coffee. 2. Another name for a whisk. whip v. To beat ingredients, such as egg whites, cream, etc., thereby incorporating air into them and increasing their volume until they are light and fluffy.
whisk
Also called a whip, this kitchen utensil consists of a series of looped wires forming a three-dimensional teardrop shape. The wires are joined and held together with a long handle. Whisks are used for whipping ingredients (such as cream, eggs, sauces, etc.), thereby incorporating air into them. They come in different sizes for different tasks and are most often made of stainless steel or tinned steel.
whiskey; whisky
An alcoholic distillate obtained from a fermented mash of grains such as barley, rye or corn. There are many varieties of whiskey or whisky, as it's spelled in Scotland and Canada. The final result is affected by many factors including the water, type of grain, how the grain is treated and processed and the aging. Among the more popular whiskies are bourbon, canadian whisky, irish whiskey, rye and scotch.
white bean
This rather generic term is applied to several dried beans falling into the four categories of marrow beans, great northern beans, navy beans and pea beans.
white chocolate
Not really chocolate at all, white chocolate is typically a mixture of sugar, cocoa butter, milk solids, lecithin and vanilla. This product can't be officially classified as "chocolate" because there is no chocolate liquor (see chocolate) in it, which means there's also very little chocolate flavor. White chocolate must be melted very slowly over low heat to keep it from scorching and clumping.
white lady
A cocktail made with white crème de menthe, cointreau and lemon juice shaken with ice, then strained into a stemmed cocktail glass. See also pink lady.
White Russian
A cocktail made with vodka, coffee-flavored liqueur (such as Kahlúa) and cream. See also black russian.
whitefish
Found in lakes and streams throughout North America, the whitefish is a member of the salmon family. Its high-fat, mild-flavored flesh is firm and white. Fresh whitefish can be found year-round and are generally marketed whole (from 2 to 6 pounds) or in fillets. They're also available frozen and smoked. Whitefish can be poached, baked, broiled or grilled. The roe can be used for caviar or cooked. See also fish.
whiting
Small gray and silver fish related to both cod and hake. They're sometimes called silver hake. The whiting's lowfat flesh is white, firm textured and delicately flavored. The fish weighs between 1 and 5 pounds and is marketed (fresh and frozen) both whole and in fillets. Whiting is also available salted and smoked. It can be poached, steamed, broiled, panfried or baked. See also fish.
Wiener Schnitzel; Wienerschnitzel
German for "Viennese cutlet," this famous Viennese dish actually originated in France. It's a veal scallop that is dipped in flour, beaten egg and bread crumbs before being sautéed. Wiener schnitzel is usually garnished with lemon slices and sometimes hard-cooked egg, anchovies or capers.
wild pecan rice
Hailing from Louisiana, this aromatic rice is a hybrid (its parents have no relation to either wild rice or pecans) with a rich, nutty flavor and a cooked fragrance akin to popcorn. It's also called simply pecan rice, and is available in gourmet markets and some supermarkets. See also rice.
wild rice
Known for its luxurious nutty flavor and chewy texture, wild rice isn't really rice at all. Instead, it's a long-grain marsh grass native to the northern Great Lakes area, where it's harvested by the local Indians. There's also now commercial wild rice production in California, as well as several Midwest states. It's important to clean wild rice thoroughly before cooking it. The best method is to place the rice in a medium bowl and fill it with cold water. Give it a couple of stirs and set aside for a few minutes. Any debris will float to the surface and the water can then be poured off. Depending on the method used, wild rice can take up to an hour to cook; overcooking will produce starchy results. Admittedly, wild rice is expensive, but both pleasure and budget are extended by combining it with brown rice or bulghur wheat. Wild rice is also called Indian rice. See also rice.
wine
Unless otherwise specified, wine refers to the naturally fermented juice of grapes. More broadly, the term can include alcoholic beverages created from other fruits and even vegetables. Wine has a rich history that has evolved along with that of humankind. Its historical roots reach back almost 12,000 years. As various cultures spread out into new parts of the world, so did the grapevine and the art of winemaking. Today there are vineyards throughout the world with good wine being produced in far-ranging locations from the United States to South Africa to Australia to South America to Europe. Wine is broadly classified in the following categories: 1. still (nonsparkling) wines including red, white and rosé which can be dry (nonsweet), semisweet and sweet; 2. sparkling wines, including French champagnes as well as effervescent wines from other parts of the world; 3. fortified wines (see listing), such as sherry and port, which have been augmented with a dose of brandy or other spirit; and 4. aromatic wines, such as vermouth, which have been flavored with ingredients like herbs or spices. Vintage wine is that which is made with 95 percent of the grapes harvested in a specific year; the year or "vintage" is indicated on the wine label. Nonvintage wine is made from the juice of grapes harvested from several years; there's no year noted on the label of such wine. blush wines are made with red grapes, but the juice has had a very brief contact with the grape skins, which produces pale pink wines. Wine storage locations should be dark, vibration free and at an even temperature. The ideal temperature is 55°F, however, anywhere from 45° to 70°F is acceptable, providing the temperature is consistent. The higher the temperature, the faster a wine will age. Wine bottles should be stored on their sides to prevent the cork from drying and shrinking, which would allow air to enter the bottle and disrupt the wine's flavor. Serving temperatures: White wine should be served at a range of between 50° and 55°F; red wine at around 65°F. Refrigerating white wine for more than 2 hours before serving can dull its flavor and aroma. Avoid drips when pouring wine by giving the bottle a slight twist just as you finish pouring. See also acetic acid; alsatian wines; appellation; asti spumante; auslese; bardolino; barolo; beaujolais; beerenauslese; blanc de blancs; blanc de noirs; botrytis cinerea; bouquet; burgundy; byrrh; cabernet franc; cabernet sauvignon; chablis; chardonnay; Château-bottled; Châteauneuf-du-pape; chenin blanc; chianti; claret; cognac; cold duck; cooking wine; corkage; corkscrew; Côtes du Rhône; decant; decanter; delaware grape; demi-sec; dessert wine; dosage; dubonnet; enology; fining; fino; fortified wine; french colombard; gewürztraminer; graves; kir; lambrusco; late harvest; lees; liebfraumilch; lillet; madeira; malic acid; manzanilla; marc; marsala; may wine; merlot; mirin; mulled wine; muscadet; muscadine grape; muscat grape; muscatel wine; must; niagara grape; oloroso; pasteurization; petite sirah; pinot blanc; pinot chardonnay; pinot noir; rape; retsina; rhône wines; rice wine; rosé wines; sake; sangría; sauternes; sauvignon blanc; sec; sediment; semillon; sommelier; spätlese; spritzer; spumante; sylvaner; tannin; tartaric acid; tokay grape; trockenbeerenauslese; valpolicella; varietal wine; vin; vintage; viticulture; vouvray; wine bottles; yeast; zinfandel.
wine bottles
Since 1979, metric standards have been in use in the United States and the standard wine bottle size was set at 750 milliliters (ml) or approximately 25.4 ounces, which is almost exactly equivalent to an American fifth (4/5 of a quart or 25.6 ounces). In answer to the stricter driving/alcohol limits in many U.S. states, the wine industry recently introduced a new 500-ml bottle size, which is 2/3 of a standard bottle. In France's beaujolais area a 500-ml bottle (which they call a pot) has long been used. In the United States, other legal bottle sizes include 50 ml, 100 ml, 187 ml, 375 ml, 1 liter, 1.5 liter and 3 liter. Wine may also be bottled in sizes larger than 3 liters if the capacity is in even liter sizes 4 liters, 5 liters, 6 liters, etc. Other bottle terminology, although not legally defined in the United States, is still sometimes used in wine circles. These terms, which include French bottle descriptions and approximate bottle sizes, are: split equivalent to 187 ml or 1/;4 of a standard wine bottle; half bottle 375 ml; magnum 1.5 liters/2 standard bottles; double magnum 3 liters/4 standard bottles (in bordeaux); Jeroboam 3 liters/4 standard bottles (in champagne) or 4.5 liters/6 standard bottles (in Bordeaux); Rehoboam 4.5 liters/6 standard bottles (in Champagne); Methuselah 6 liters/8 standard bottles (in Champagne); Imperial 6 liters/8 standard bottles (in Bordeaux); Salmanazar 9 liters/12 standard bottles; Balthazar 12 liters/16 standard bottles; and Nebuchadnezzar 15 liters/20 standard bottles.
Winesap apple
Juicy and tart, the Winesap apple has a crisp, yellowish flesh covered with a deep red skin. This all-purpose apple has good keeping qualities and is available November through May. See also apple.
winged bean
Also called goa bean, this tropical legume is rapidly becoming a staple throughout the poorer regions of the world where it grows. The reasons are basic: it grows quickly, is disease resistant and is high in protein. The winged bean is also valued because it's entirely edible, including the shoots, flowers, roots, leaves, pods and seeds. The pods, which can be green, purple or various shades of red, are four-sided and flare from the center into ruffled ridges or "wings." These beans have a flavor similar to that of a cranberry bean with a hint of green bean. The texture is like that of a starchy green bean. Winged beans may be found in specialty produce markets and some supermarkets. Choose small beans with no sign of discoloration. Refrigerate, tightly wrapped in a plastic bag, for up to 3 days. Wash and trim before using. Winged beans may be prepared in any way suitable for green beans. See also beans.
winter melon
This large, frost-green muskmelon can weigh up to 30 pounds and resembles a huge honeydew. The porous flesh is snowy white and has a flavor reminiscent of zucchini. Winter melon is available year-round in Chinese markets and specialty produce stores. It should be cooked briefly and is popular in stir-fry dishes as well as various Asian soups, especially winter melon soup, which is classically served in a scooped-out winter-melon shell. See also melon.
wintergreen
The name of this evergreen plant, which is native to eastern North America, comes from the fact that it retains foliage all winter long. In addition to its rich green leaves, wintergreen bears white flowers and bright red berries. The leaves produce a pungent oil that's used to flavor a variety of products including candy, gum, medicine, etc. Wintergreen is also known as checkerberry.
wok
A round-bottomed cooking utensil popular in Asian cooking, where its uses include stir-frying, steaming, braising, stewing and even deep-frying. Woks are traditionally made of rolled steel, which provides excellent heat control, but they can also be made of sheet iron, anodized aluminum and stainless steel. They come in various sizes, usually have two handles and are generally accompanied by a ring-shaped stand for use on a gas stovetop. Special flat-bottom woks are also available for use on electric stoves. Electric woks (usually with a nonstick finish) are also available.
won ton skins; egg roll skins
Paper-thin sheets of dough made from flour, eggs and salt, and used to make won ton, egg rolls and similar preparations. Won ton skins can be purchased prepackaged in some supermarkets and in most Chinese markets. The wrappers usually come in both squares and circles and are available in various thicknesses.
won ton soup
A Chinese favorite consisting of won tons cooked in and served in a clear broth flavored variously with ingredients like scallions, celery and soy sauce. The soup is often garnished with julienned strips of chicken, veal, vegetables, etc. The broth's flavor as well as the garnishes are prepared to correspond to the won ton filling.
won ton; wonton
A Chinese specialty similar to an Italian ravioli. These bite-size dumplings consist of paper-thin dough pillows filled with a minced mixture of meat, fish and/or vegetables. The dough comes prepackaged as won ton skins. Won tons may be boiled, steamed or deep-fried and served as an appetizer, snack or side dish, usually with several sauces. They are, of course, intrinsic to won ton soup.
Wonton
A small dumplings made by filling thin sheets of dough with a mixture finely chopped meat, fish or vegetables.
wood ear
A variety of mushroom also known as cloud ear, tree ear (the larger, thicker specimens) or silver ear (albinos). They have a slightly crunchy texture and delicate, almost bland flavor that more often than not absorbs the taste of the more strongly flavored ingredients with which they are cooked. Asian markets sell fresh and dried wood ears, the latter of which, except for the albino varieties, look like brownish-black, dried chips. Upon reconstituting they increase 5 to 6 times in size and resemble the shape of an ear. Wood ears are popular in stir-fries and soups and are often combined with tiger lily buds. See also mushroom.
woodruff
Often described as having the smell of freshly cut hay, woodruff is the leaf of a ground cover native to Europe. Its most famous use is as a flavoring in may wine, a white-wine punch popular in Germany. In Germany and Austria, woodruff is also used to season sausages, candies and many cooked dishes. Live plants are available through many nurseries, and the dried herb is available in gourmet stores and through mail order. Also called sweet woodruff.
Worcestershire sauce
Though this condiment was originally developed in India by the English, it takes its name from the fact that it was first bottled in Worcester, England. It's a thin, dark, rather piquant sauce used to season meats, gravies, soups and vegetable juices, and as a table condiment. It's also an essential ingredient in the popular bloody mary cocktail. Worcestershire's formula usually includes garlic, soy sauce, tamarind, onions, molasses, lime, anchovies, vinegar and various seasonings. It's widely available in supermarkets.
wormwood
A bitter, aromatic herb used in flavoring absinthe, some wines such as vermouth, and occasionally (but not in the United States) in cooking. In the past, wormwood was popular as a medicinal herb for colds, stomach problems and rheumatism. Because the flavoring oil extracted from this herb is potentially poisonous, the United States has banned preparations (such as absinthe) made with an excessive amount of it. See also herbs.
wurst
The German word for "sausage."
xanthan gum
Produced from the fermentation of corn sugar, xanthan gum is used as a thickener, emulsifier and stabilizer in foods such as dairy products and salad dressings. See also guar gum; gum arabic; gum tragacanth.
xxx; xxxx
Label symbols used for confectioners' sugar. (see sugar).
yakimono
The Japanese term for foods (usually meat) that are grilled, broiled or pan-fried. The ingredients are generally either marinated in sauce or salted (see shioyaki). They're then skewered so they retain their shape and grilled over a hot fire so the skin (if any) is very crisp while the meat stays tender and juicy. yakitori is a specific type of yakimono dish using chicken.
yakitori
A Japanese term meaning "grilled" (yaki ) "fowl" (tori ), usually referring to small pieces of marinated chicken that are skewered and grilled.
yam
This thick, tropical-vine tuber is popular in South and Central America, the West Indies and parts of Asia and Africa. Although sweet potatoes and yams are similar in many ways and therefore often confused with one another, they are from different plant species. In the southern United States, sweet potatoes are often called yams and to add to the confusion, canned sweet potatoes are frequently labeled yams. True yams, however, are not widely marketed and are seldom grown in the United States. Though they can be similar in size and shape to sweet potatoes, yams contain more natural sugar and have a higher moisture content. On the downside, they're not as rich in vitamins A and C as sweet potatoes. There are over 150 species of yam grown throughout the world. They can range in size from that of a small potato to behemoths over 7 1/2 feet long and 120 pounds. Depending on the variety, a yam's flesh may be various shades of off-white, yellow, purple or pink, and the skin from off-white to dark brown. The texture of this vegetable can range from moist and tender to coarse, dry and mealy. Yams can be found in most Latin American markets, often in chunks, sold by weight. When buying yams, select unblemished specimens with tight, unwrinkled skins. Store in a place that's cool, dark and dry for up to 2 weeks. Do not refrigerate. Yams may be substituted for sweet potatoes in most recipes.
yard-long bean
A pencil-thin legume that resembles a green bean except that it can grow up to about 3 feet long (though it's usually picked at 18 inches or less). Yard-long beans belong to the same plant family as the black-eyed pea. In fact, in parts of China the bean is allowed to mature until full-fledged peas are produced in the pod. Yard-longs have a flavor similar to but not as sweet as that of a green bean, with hints of its black-eyed-pea lineage. The texture of the pod is more pliable and not as crisp as that of a green bean. This legume, also called Chinese long bean, long bean or asparagus bean, can be found year-round (with peak season in the fall) in most Asian markets and some supermarkets with specialty produce sections. Select those that are small (which equates to younger) and very flexible; the peas should not have matured. Refrigerate in a plastic bag for up to 5 days. Yard-long beans are most often cut into 2-inch lengths and sautéed or stir-fried. Overcooking will make them mushy. These beans are rich in vitamin A and contain a fair amount of vitamin C.
yarrow
Any of several very pungent, aromatic herbs found in Europe and North America. Known as milfoil in Europe, yarrow has a very strong aroma and flavor and is therefore used sparingly to flavor salads, soups and occasionally egg dishes. It may also be used to brew a tisane (herb tea).
yeast
Yeast is a living, microscopic, single-cell organism that, as it grows, converts its food (through a process known as fermentation) into alcohol and carbon dioxide. This trait is what endears yeast to winemakers, brewmasters and breadbakers. In the making of wine and beer, the yeast's manufacture of alcohol is desired and necessary for the final product; and carbon dioxide is what makes beer and champagne effervescent. The art of breadmaking needs the carbon dioxide produced by yeast in order for certain doughs to rise. To multiply and grow, all yeast needs is the right environment, which includes moisture, food (in the form of sugar or starch) and a warm, nurturing temperature (70° to 85°F is best). Wild yeast spores are constantly floating in the air and landing on uncovered foods and liquids. No one's sure when these wild spores first interacted with foods but it's known that the Egyptians used yeast as a leavening agent more than 5,000 years ago. Wine and other fermented beverages were made for millennia before that. Today, scientists have been able to isolate and identify the various yeasts that are best for winemaking, beermaking and baking. The two types commercially available are baker's yeast and brewer's yeast. Baker's yeast, as the name implies, is used as a leavener. It's catagorized into three basic types active dry yeast, compressed fresh yeast and yeast starters. Active dry yeast is in the form of tiny, dehydrated granules. The yeast cells are alive but dormant because of the lack of moisture. When mixed with a warm liquid (105° to 115°F), the cells once again become active. Active dry yeast is available in two forms, regular and quick-rising, of which the latter takes about half as long to leaven bread. They may be used interchangeably (with adjustments in rising time) and both are available in 1/4-ounce envelopes. Regular active dry yeast may also be purchased in 4-ounce jars or in bulk in some health-food stores. It should be stored in a cool, dry place, but can also be refrigerated or frozen. It should always be at room temperature before being dissolved in liquid. Properly stored, it's reliable when used by the expiration date, which should be stamped on the envelope or jar label. One package of dry yeast is equal to 1 scant tablespoon dry yeast or 1 cake of compressed fresh yeast. Compressed fresh yeast, which comes in tiny (0.06-ounce), square cakes, is moist and extremely perishable. It must be refrigerated and used within a week or two, or by the date indicated on the package. It can be frozen, but should be defrosted at room temperature and used immediately. One cake of fresh yeast can be substituted for one envelope of dry yeast. The use of compressed fresh yeast has been primarily replaced by the more convenient active dry yeast. All baker's yeast should be given a test called proofing to make sure it's still alive. To proof yeast, dissolve it in warm water and add a pinch of sugar. Set the mixture aside in a warm place for 5 to 10 minutes. If it begins to swell and foam, the yeast is alive, active and capable of leavening bread. Brewer's yeasts are special non-leavening yeasts used in beermaking. Because it's a rich source of B vitamins, brewer's yeast is also used as a food supplement. It's available in health-food stores. Brewer's yeasts are also marketed in specialty beermaking equipment shops, with different strains used for different beers.
yeast bread
Any bread that uses yeast as the leavening agent. As the yeast ferments, it converts the flour's starchy nutrients into alcohol and carbon dioxide gas. The gas bubbles trapped in the elastic gluten mesh of the dough are what make it rise. Oven heat kills the yeast and evaporates the alcohol. The gas expands in a final burst of energy and causes the bread to rise. Among the more well-known yeast breads are brioche, croissants, french bread and sourdough bread.
yeast starter
Prior to the evolution of commercially available baking powders and yeasts during the 19th century, yeast starters were the leaveners used in breadmaking. Such starters are a simple mixture of flour, water, sugar and yeast. (At one time, airborne yeast was the only source used, but today convenient commercially packaged baker's yeast is more common.) This batter is set aside in a warm place until the yeast ferments and the mixture is foamy. A portion of the starter usually about 2 cups is removed and used as the base and leavener for some bread recipes. Once fermented, yeast starters the most famous of which is sourdough starter can be kept going in the right environment for years simply by adding equal parts flour and water. Herman starter is a colloquialism (of unkown origin) for a honey- or sugar-sweetened starter used primarily for sweet breads. Starter should be refrigerated and can be stored this way indefinitely as long as it's replenished every 2 weeks. Before using or replenishing, it should be brought to room temperature. If a starter turns orange or pink and develops an unpleasantly acrid odor, undesirable bacteria have invaded it and the mixture must be discarded. Two cups of the foamy starter mixture can be substituted for each package of yeast called for in a recipe.
yellowtail
1. This large (up to 100 pounds) game fish is found off the coast of Southern California and further south into Mexican waters. It's a member of the jack family related to pompano with a flavor and texture similar to tuna. Yellowtail is only occasionally available commercially. It may be prepared in any way suitable for tuna. 2. A variety of snapper. See also fish.
yogurt; yoghurt
A dairy product that's the result of milk that has fermented and coagulated because it's been invaded by friendly bacteria. This can be accomplished naturally by keeping the milk at about 110°F for several hours. The end result is a creamy-textured yogurt with an astringent, slightly tart taste. Yogurt-making is thought to have been originated by nomadic Balkan tribes thousands of years ago, probably first by accident and then as a means of preserving milk. Today, yogurt is made commercially in carefully controlled environments and the requisite bacteria (usually Lactobacillus bulgaricus and Streptococcus thermophilus ) are added to the milk. Though yogurt can be made from the milk of many animals, cow's milk is the most commonly used. There are a variety of commercial yogurts now produced. Plain yogurt is made from whole milk, lowfat or nonfat milk without additional flavoring ingredients. Flavored yogurt has sugar and either artificial flavorings or natural fruit (or both) added. Some flavored yogurts contain gelatin or stabilizers for a thicker texture. Fruit-flavored yogurts can either have the fruit on the bottom (to be mixed in by the consumer) or be already stirred in which case they're referred to as Swiss-style. Frozen yogurt which resembles soft-serve ice cream in texture has become very popular and competes head-to-head in some markets with ice cream. The health benefits of yogurt have long been touted. It is certainly a good source of B vitamins, protein and calcium and is much more digestible than fresh milk. It's also said to keep the intestinal system populated with good bacteria and therefore in healthy condition. These benefits, however, are thought to be lost when yogurt is frozen, which destroys most of the beneficial bacteria.
yokan
This Japanese confection is made with agar (the jelling agent), sugar and adzuki-bean paste. Other flavorings such as persimmons or chestnuts are also sometimes used. Yokan, which is sold in Asian markets, will keep indefinitely in the refrigerator.
York Imperial apple
A medium to large apple with firm flesh that's tartly sweet. The York Imperial's skin is red with yellowish streaks and the flesh is off-white. It's an excellent cooking apple and is a favorite for baked apples because it keeps its shape during cooking. This apple is available October through April. See also apple.
Yorkshire pudding
British roast beef wouldn't be complete without Yorkshire pudding, which is like a cross between a popover and a soufflé and not at all like a pudding. It's made with a batter of eggs, milk and flour, baked in beef drippings until puffy, crisp and golden brown. It may be prepared in a shallow baking dish, muffin tins or other small containers, or in the same pan as the roast. Like a hot soufflé, Yorkshire pudding will deflate shortly after it's removed from the oven. This specialty takes its name from England's northern county of Yorkshire.
yosenabe
A type of nabemono (one-pot meal) consisting of chicken or fish and vegetables all combined in a single pot of seasoned broth kind of a Japanese bouillabaise.
youngberry
A hybrid blackberry variety with dark red color and sweet, juicy flesh. See also berries.
yuba
Soybean milk "skin" that forms on soy milk when it is heated. The delicate milk skin is carefully removed and usually dried in sheets or folded and dried in sticks. Yuba sheets are rehydrated by covering with a wet towel; yuba sticks are soaked in water. Yuba, with its creamy, nutlike flavor, is often used in vegetarian dishes as a meat substitute. It can be found in most Asian markets. Sheets of yuba can be used to wrap other foods that can then be braised, deep-fried or steamed. The sticks are sometimes deep-fried to a crispy brown, to be eaten alone or broken into pieces for use in other dishes. Yuba sticks are sometimes called bamboo because of their look-alike quality.
Yuzu
A tangy citrus fruit with flavorful rind.
Za'atar
An herb, or spice blend of sesame seeds, sumac, and herb za'atar that is used in Middle Eastern cooking, sprinkled on bread or on grilled meat.
zabaglione
One of Italy's great gifts to the rest of the world, zabaglione is an ethereal dessert made by whisking together egg yolks, wine (traditionally marsala) and sugar. This beating is done over simmering water so that the egg yolks cook as they thicken into a light, foamy custard. Traditional zabaglione must be made just before serving. (There is also a frozen version.) The warm froth can be served either as a dessert by itself or as a sauce over cake, fruit, ice cream or pastry. In France it's called sabayon or sabayon sauce.
zahtar
Popular throughout Turkey and North Africa, zahtar is a spice blend comprised of sesame seeds mixed with powdered sumac and dried thyme. It's sprinkled over meats and vegetables, or mixed with oil as a spread for bread. Zahtar can be found in Middle Eastern markets.
zakuska
A Russian hors D'oeuvre, which could include any of a variety of foods such as anchovies, blinis, caviar, cheeses, fish, and fish- or meat-filled pastries. A zakuska assortment is generally served with bottles of ice-cold vodka.
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