Restaurant Review: Black to go

The classic American hamburger: eight ounces of prime ground beef, toasted bun, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, a generous squirt of ketchup to glue it all together and crisp, greasy, golden French fries on the side. It’s an institution that the gourmet burger fad can never quite equal, and that fast food joints around the world more or less preserve, more or less.

Look, I eat carpaccio, I eat sushi, and I eat steak tartare. All by conscious choice. But listen carefully; if you’re going to have the word  “Burger” in your name, you’d better make sure you hire people who can cook the burgers.

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